Cheap Chinese Diesel Heater Tips - Camper Van Heating Installation
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- I thought I would share just a few tips about the cheap Chinese diesel heaters that have grown a large following. This won't cover everything but just a few that can help improve your heater and keep you warm during the winter. Please also check out the comments for more tips from other people.
Would like to give a shout out to the channel below for some awesome information:
/ johnmck1147
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Extra installation tips: The air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe/muffler should be mounted at a downward angle to allow water & condensation to drain. If your heater didn't come with a silencer for the air intake, there are upgraded silencers & mufflers you can buy to reduce the noise they make. The exhaust & intake pipes should go in opposing directions so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked into the intake pipe. The exhaust pipe should be pointed toward the closet edge of the undercarriage so that the fumes won't accumulate under the vehicle. If the noise of the heater disturbs you then mount the heater as far away from your sleeping area as practical. They sell quieter fuel pumps as an upgrade but their clicking is still audible. A piece of foam, preferably egg crate foam, can be wrapped around the pump to help muffle the clicking noise. Mounting the pump with a soft mount like on a rubber hanger helps to reduce the vibration when the pump diaphragm starts pumping.
he knows that
Another tip, a well-seasoned mechanic who has installed many Espar and Webasto units over the years looked at my installation and advised me to, YES, keep the PUMP mounted at a 45-degree angle but the filter should always be mounted horizontally. The reason being is that the filter, when new, will always have a bit of air in it in the top half when mounted horizontally and over time, as it starts to clog up, you can easily tell if you need a new filter when you see that the filter is FULL of fuel. (restricted flow) I have no reason to doubt this man as he has been using these things for decades on his fleet of trucks and has been both a certified automotive and heavy-duty mechanic for more than 45 years.
You are awesome! This was definitely the best pro tip video I've seen for these Chinese heaters. Concise, straight to the point, great video and music and no senseless chatter, which makes your videos very interesting to watch!
cheers matey!
I own a Relay (or Jumper as it is called in rest of Europe) and I can confirm that the hatch for the diesel tank is just the same🙂
Also thank you Hugh for this very informative video, to us rookies who are teaching ourselves, it means the world to have this broken down and explained as simply as possible with the experience behind recommending what to use and what not to use. Greatly appreciated this video
I am considering one of these heaters and have been watching several how to install vids. Another tip is to be able to turn off the display unit when not in use, the read out seems to fade quite soon. Easy to buy and replace but just another cost. Hope this helps out. Thank you for a informative video.
Some great tips high for those people installing this heater.
Excellent information and advice. Very clear. I've been using these heaters for quite a while now. I've had one in my RV for two years and it still runs like new. Your advice about proper fuel line is dead on. It's not so critical for the line running up to the filter and pump, but from pump to heater you must use the 0.2 cm (id) tubing. It's hard for a reason. The soft rubber hose absorbs the pump's metering pulse. It doesn't allow a full pulse with soft hose. Don't know why they send this stuff with many heaters. Kind thanks for taking time to explain these things. You are helping many folks. Instant LIKE and SUBSCIBE! Greetings from Alaska.
cheers! and greeting from the UK
I'm in wasilla Ak about to install mine any tips and tricks I should know
@@gnomiedan5424 As for information, there's tons of it here on CZcams. You'll get it figured out. Just don't take any shortcuts. Install it correctly. Find a way to prime it before just hitting the start button. If done correctly you'll have a good heat source and cheap too! Good luck.
Your video is fantastic, Hugh. The diagram made me smile. Thank you for putting in so much work to make the video. It is EXTREMELY HELPFUL.
Thanks April!
Great tips. Very informative, Thank you!
I have an observation to make concerning the use of a hard fuel line between the pump and the heater. It seems a soft fuel line like automotive fuel line would serve somewhat as a bladder that would reduce the number of times the pump 'clicks' and also take some shock out of the system. A pump 'clicking' into a solid plumbing system is going to see a rapid rate of pressure increase so the pump likely would pump less each 'click'. Another point: It seems drawing some of all of the combustion air for the heater from the living space would be handy for moisture reduction. I doubt that many campers are so air tight that the heater would be starved but if starving were a problem ventilation openings could easily be added. Nice job on the video and install. Thanks.
_Nice vlog with tips; I'm keeping this one to pass along to others who want to install their own. When it comes to these fuel tanks that come in the kits. There two main things that people miss. First is the tank itself. That little square foot is to give the tank a slight tilt for either way. Not to place the fuel nipple into. Although you can, as many do. Now, secondly, the lid, if you look under it pull these apart, you can put the fuel line through the top and into the next piece, pull the rubber from the clear piece. For installment into any camper, van, or trailer inside, you really want your fuel to feed your heater from the top, NOT under the fuel tank. Here the kicker, then you can use anything that holds diesel fuel for your needs. I just got done using 2 stainless steel jug for a fuel tank for a customer. Or you can use regular fuel can. If it ever goes bad, you just lift the whole line out and drop into a new tank in 10 sec. Those tanks for the kits can and will split right at the seams; I've changed out like five of them already for people and have always replaced with some type of top-down fuel line system with a replacement tank of some sort for the customers. When it comes to the pump, you can take all the air bubbles out caused by the piston's cavitation. You have to use a hand-operated vacuum pump. Once you prime to the pump with a hand-operated vacuum; connect the fuel line to the pump; a pump for a minute, add a foot foot-long, and a hand pump to add a strong vacuum and draw out the air. Once that done, you can run your line to the heater and prime until you get to the heater, pump out the fuel for a sec, then make the final connection to the heater. At that point, you can have the pump at 0° through 90° as long as you don't run it out of fuel from the tank. My own fuel line from the tank to pump is 2'; from the pump is 15' to the heater. A total of 17' with no air bubbles. My own build is the longest fuel line run to this day. Have also started to use 4mm air/ oil push-to-connector within the fuel systems, too, with no issues._
@@rustysummers3217, I was talking about the caps that come with these tanks in the kits. Yes, I use a regular 2 1/2 gallon regular fuel container for my own tank. My thinking was if I ever needed to replace the fuel container. I could go anywhere, even a 7-11 store, for a quick fix. I drilled a hole in the blank that kept fuel in and ran the line into it with the kits' metal nipple. But did use a different inline fuel filter, 1/4 ZYTC clear plastic glass inline filter close to the metal nipple. Right now, those seem to work fine, and I got them off of Amazon. Ten for 10 bucks, I think. You also need to make sure all the air is out of those filters too. I agree with you. I would NOT have any tank inside; you're right, just in case, the fuel would never get out the smell out, no matter how you clean it.
@@rustysummers3217, I'm not sure how long of a line you can have before the pump. I know what the manual has said, but I would think a good 5 meter before. Thanks, I'll set up a test this weekend to find out how long before the pump can't handle the draw in the back shop too. I have set up a couple of pumps and lines to test out more ways to keep the pumps and fuel lines' noise down to a bare minimum or cut out the noise completely. I let you know how it goes.
Hi , great video. Just a tip for priming I used a spray pump from my wife's "Spray & wipe" bottle, the tube is the same size as the fuel line, so its just a matter of sliding it into the outer tube at the filter, it only takes a few seconds and it's done. Just be Shaw you put it back before the wife sees it's missing.
haha and also clean out the diesel im guessing
Ya,...feel U there,😜dats like dangerous territory man, Ur a brave on...lol!!
For the intake tubing, I would recommend SCAT tubing. Comes in all sizes. Used a lot in aviation, boats, and high performance cars. High temp resistant, durable, flexible, and won't collapse.
Very interesting, l hope we get to see you install it 😊
very very helpful tips! thinking of buying a diesel heater soon.
Thanks for the tips dude! - I was going to fit the tank that came with the kit but I think ill just plumb in the sender on my Ducato!
All of your tips are essentials for reliable performance
Thanks so much for the tips!
Great video as always 👍
On my heater I used a reinforced silicone pipe with a engine oil breather filter on the end and that helps a little in reducing the intake noise. The exhaust I used the fiberglass heat tape on it just as a precaution. The only other thing I did with mine is to reduce the top speed of the fans by a small amount to reduce vibration noise and it's now lovely and quite (for a diesel heater) and the van is toasty warm.
How to reduce the fan speed mate?
@@RossTallo press the settings button and then ok a couple of times until you find a set of - - - - then key in 1688. Its done on the up down buttons to select each number then ok to go to next number. After that pressing ok until you reach a low number i think off my head its 1.65hz that is the low pump speed the next one after pressing ok is the high speed of the pump that on mine i reduced by pressing the up/down button to set it at a lower number. Again its in Hertz 5.85hz example. After that after ok the next is low speed fans and high speed fans and by reducing the high speed fans by a small amount (800rpm) it stopped it howling like a banshee on start up. If you still struggle find me on Instagram and I will go through it with you on a video chat. Instagram or Facebook.
@@catvando3209 some man, cheers Stephen! Will definitely have a go at this when I get mine 👍🏻
My diesel heater came with two mufflers, one for the intake and one for the exhaust.
Great video! I literally just bought a diesel Ducato (Dodge Promaster here in the US) and am looking to install this exact unit! And wondering how to tap the fuel tank as well! Thanks a bunch, saved me a sh*t load of time
haha glad I could help
Excellent!
Awesome detailed video amen. Just subscribed! Thanks...
Great video and useful safety points too. I’ve heard a number of installers also upgrade the filter as they are often fragile or brittle. Cheap enough from Halfords. Like the idea of something more substantial for the air supply to the heater too. ✅👍
Yes great point, for such a small amount of extra money upgrading those small parts can make a big difference
OK so I am waiting for mine to arrive (went for an all in one unit). I thought id get it early on so I can dry out my convoy properly before doing all the prelim work and insulating. Had always though I would go with a woodburner but an experienced mate extolled the virtues of the diesel heater. Slightly beginning to wish I hadn't as I am now going down the CZcams rabbit hole with this stuff! However, thanks for this video Hugh, and thanks to all those giving great insights in the comments! S.
haha the YT rabbit hole can be a dangerous peril! Good luck with it all
Very helpful. Thank you
I've got three of these.
I swapped out virtually all the fittings including fuel tanks.
I used a hydroponics 15ltr top fill and top outlet tank, they are fully chemical and solvent resistant. so no fear of leaking from bottom fittings.
I agree that the hose clips supplied are not very good quality.
And I use proper diesel fuel line with the braided outer covering.
I love them super heat output.
Cheap spares as well.
PS good video for beginners.
Thanks Paul! couldn't agree more you basically get a super cheap webasto with bag accessories. change up the extra parts and you're laughing
Awesome tips!
Just installed in my 92 Defender 110. Used 7/8” inner diameter rubber drain hose to extend the air intake 8 feet to a high location in the engine compartment away from water. I’ve got it tied back and away from the hot parts of the engine. It may not last forever but so far so good!
Great video, thanks. I know someone who had the air intake pipe squashed and killed the heater so definitely try to mount that pipe somewhere as protected as possible.
I'm surprised that you have not made a video showing how to tap into the fuel tank of the Relay/Boxer/Ducato. This would be super useful for many as I can't find a good how to.
Hi Matt, I will be showing an install of a Truma D6E soon in which I tap into my tank
Very informative well done 👍 I got a tip get a wood burner 😂
ahh Mel, I would love a log burner but it just won't work in my design for the current van
The wood burner with the pizza oven looks stunning !
nice one fella
I was thinking about fitting a wood burning stove in my shed/workshop but now I'm considering one of these diesel heaters. 👍 😎
Super helpful! Thanks!!
My tip is to not use the rubber gasket that goes next to the exhaust outlet. Mine was heating up and burning, giving off burnt rubber fumes. I took it off and used fire resistant sealant instead.
What sealant would you recommend?
I found VITCAS Heat Resistant SILICONE (300°c) of VITCAS Heat Resistant Sealant Sealant (1300 °C).I have no clue about these products
@@mingueyox I am pretty sure it was the one called firemate that I used but I wouldn't know if it is the best one. I have a carbon monoxide tester in the van and it hasn't gone off having used the heater a few times in the last 2 months.
@@exploringavenues2269 Great. Thank you you for your feedback 👍
Be sure to leave enough room around the exhaust pipe to avoid overheat the layers around it
nice tip, i was going to leave mine on!
fuel may cause stripping of certain types of hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose Make sure to use the rated hose for Diesel And prevent a cause of fire
Thx I was wondering why.
Yeah I used the soft tube that came with my kit and it did this
That is the main problem with the green supply hose that comes in SOME diesel air heater kits. It is suitable for aquariums...maybe. Your local auto supply store can provide the proper fuel-rated line and fittings (if needed) to get you up and running. Take the green line in with you to purchase the good stuff.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 does anyone have a link to what tube i should buy please? thank you
good stuff here
Awesome informative video, thanks. When you mention about priming the fuel pump, how do you do this? Many thanks.
you can grab little hand pumps that are used to suck fuel up lines for priming. you don't need to prime the line from pump to heater (unless a very long line) but its advised that you prime from tank to pump.
good vid man !!!!!!! very helpful
what a great to the point video ! i didnt have to watch you eat a burger and pet your dog for 20 minutes :-) Thank you :-)
For the inlet pipe I made a mandrel from a broomstick which I screwed in a threaded rod into. The mandrel can be used to make a coil out of (what I use) 1,6mm thick mig welding wire.
One can also use the thicker gardening wire or simply fencing wire.
The coil can be fed over the flimsy pipe which keeps it from kinking or deforming very easily. In general one has to be careful how such pipes are mounted and routed...
ive been using the intake and exhaist tubes for years that came with my heater.. no problems with the intake getting clogged or the pipe squished.. you just have to protect it whern you install it that you have the exhaust pointing toward the back of thre van / bus / RV so that you dont oush dirt, bugs, water, etc into the exhaist while you are driving.
I bought one of these heaters so this is a great video for me. The only thing I think you need change if using the t5s own tank is the pick up pipe. The one that comes in the kit,the nut is to big and doesn't fit on the sender. I got the proper one for about £12 I think.
yeah I have bought a few of the much slimmer erberspacher ones
EXCELLENT advice! Thank you for the video.
Thank you for your advice on the sprinter as well!
the return fuel line is a perfect picup.alot of companies give u an exorst thats 2-3 mm to big & use exorst paste .
Sound advice ;-)
yes relay tank accessable on my 2016 model through hatch under passenger seat.
I just got my heater installed at the garage I use who also convert camper vans. My fuel comes directly from the van tank, but that pick up pipe in the kit is not required. Instead the fuel line is spliced using a "T" piece. I also purchased a mounting plate with 65mm turret so only one 125mm diameter hole needs cut on the floor, my heater is mounted under the drivers seat and I have a 2kw heater which is adequite.
You are correct about that green tubing, the minute he saw that he said you will need some descent fuel grade tubing.
I wired mine into my fuse box even though it has a 15A inline fuse. I don't want the display runing constantly and when my van is parked up and not in use I use the power isolation switch mounted beside my leisure battery to power off.
I found it strange that 5kw heaters are cheaper than 2kw.
Cheers matey, some great info! I may look into fuel line splicing!
Ducato also has cabin access to the fuel tank.
Nicely explained. Thank you very much 👍🏽
Tx bro for all your good advice 🙏
God bless you. 🙌
Much love from South Africa 🇿🇦
cheers dude! appreciate it!
Thanks for making an excellent video
Great video. I’ve got both relay and a boxer and can confirm that he Relay is the same set up with easy access to the top of the tank
Im a Newby about to select and buy a unit. You video is first class and helpful. You ention things I don't even know about, so couldn't consider? Great work!
I use the soft Fuel pipe have done for 6 years i have 3 heaters , The hard pipe makes click click noise , the soft pipe nice and quiet , the fuel pulse has no dramas with the soft pipe at all
Rob
NSW
Australia
I agree, that's what makes them so noisy. The fuel line does not affect the pulse at all as the pulse is controlled by electronics activating the pump. The hard plastic line resonates the noise making it even worse.
Good video it is good to have these points given verbally, but one point a good inline switch is great and needed if you leave fire not used for long time. But switch must be safe and never used to turn fire off.
Good idea...For the fuel line or electric my friend?
So I used the soft line that you said not to use... And I noticed today that the line had micro cracks all the way up it after some moderate use... I installed it about 5 months ago. So yeah time to get the nylon one and change them over
The vw t4 has a round metal panel under the passenger seats unscrew that and you have access to the top of the fuel tank/sender it means unbolting the seats but easier than dropping the fuel tank 😉
I was very happy to find this access hatch when I installed a heater on a friends t4 last summer
ok what have you done with Hugh ..... your videos are too good, the old guy was much more fun to poke holes in what he did. This Hugh Mk11 is on point LOL
haha cheers David!
Great vid thanks. I want to fit my heater under my van for the following reasons . My bongo isn’t that big and it would save space ,also I think it would be quieter. . It would be mounted on its side with the glow plug also on its side . I know weather proofing could be an issue but I think I can rig up some protection .i have seen this done on CZcams . What do you think ?
Hi Hugh, thank you for the tips in relation to the heater. I am in the process of fitting a 5kw one to my garden pub shed 5.5m x 3.5m, Im sure it will be warm enough. The only issue I have is that i do not want to install anything other than heater pipe and controls to the inside of the shed, therefore plan to build an outside construction to house everything else. Would I be better going for brick or wooden box to house these. Not sure of what heat the unit itself creates. I am aware that the exhaust gets pretty hot but I plan to insulate it. Hope you cna give me some pointers as to size and makeup of the container as there are very few online ideas cheers Colin
Hey Colin, I would avoid wood for the surround, the exhaust pipe can get very hot.
Great video, thanks a lot!
Bought one of these for our Boxer and that tip about the inspection hatch above the fuel tank will be invaluable 👍🏽
Thanks Mate 🚐💨
Thanks for the video Hugh. Is there anyway I can just connect a stand alone battery and just remove and charge it opposed to fitting it to my leisure battery. I want to keep my power source away from everything else.
You could but without any charge input you may find yourself charging that battery fairly regularly
Yes I always pre prime the lines going to the pump your right about the dry wear too
1 huge tip is most vans only need 2kw - 5kw is far to much for a van & you end up running them so low & they soot up & fail. 2kw is smaller & takes lest space. They sell 5kw as 2kw because they have changed the software on the controller so BE CAREFUL look for the real 2kg ;)
Good points, if you already have the 5kw one though you can run it on full for a little while every so often to burn out the soot.
Pretend I'm thick as s**t (cos I am). How do I know a real 2kw from a throttled 5kw?
shoots , i have a 5kw for the back of my pick-up truck cap ...... i ran it for the 1st time today , not inside the cap... thing is radical. I was laughing how strong it was... is there anything on the fuel end , additives that could help with that or just run her full blast every now and then ? 🤘🏼
Searching Life yeah if it’s the 5kw just run full blast every now and then to de-soot mate. It’s critical to do this because it will fail if you don’t.
Royce Munday hey mate genuinely there a lot smaller buddy look at the sizes the de-tuned 5kg are much bigger & they make them run at 2kw.. so definitely look at sizes in this case smaller is definitely better ;)
Thank you very good advices
Excellent thanks
I installed one of these in my travel trailer (caravan). It came out of a wrecked semi truck (transport). Nearly all truck manufacture's here in the States use the same heaters in the sleeper berths. Very quiet.
My next project is to install the APU (Aux. Power Unit) from the same wreck to supply house hold electric power and air conditioning. It is also diesel powered and circulates engine coolant thru the vehicle engine block when parked.
An in-line fuel filter is a good idea also
Great video
great advice, much thanks!
can the fuel tank and filter+pump be placed outside, or does the cold affect it? (i am guessing the fuel would be fine, considering the many diesel cars and trucks on the roads in cold climates.)
Hi Douglas, funnily enough they are actually expected to be outside, most fittings have it this way. Well a lot of people keep the tank inside but it could easily be outside
@@HughTube awesome, thanks! that's exactly where i'm putting 'em. :) peace
Hi Hugh, I've been researching old install videos lately with a view of trying to squeeze one into my connect micro camper. So I was glad this popped up in my subs. A few questions you might be able to help me with, does the outer casing of the unit get hot? Could the fuel tank be mounted near main unit? Is there a possibility of mounting the unit vertically? Also is the 2kw smaller in size? Thanks. 🔥🔥
I installed the 2kw heater in my Berlingo. It is smaller than the 5kw one but check the dimensions to be sure it is the correct one. It gives out too much heat even when I was in the pyranese with it on the lowest setting! so don't get the 5kw for a small van.
Yes, I've been on ebay and noticed some 2kw come in a 5kw body. I was worried it might get too hot in a small camper. I'll probably only run it on chilly mornings before I get out of bed and a bit in the evening. Out to the van now with a tape measure to see if I can make this work.
The outer casing can get up to about 50 degrees celcius in what I have seen but you could mount the diesel tank near the heater just not next to it. I am not 100% sure about vertical mounting, it can be mounted on its side (with the glow plug facing up) but can't answer on vertical. The 2kw is smaller physically yes
Thanks for all the information but it is a no go. I've been in the van with my tape and what I had in my head won't work in reality, like a lot of van build ideas. I don't know if it could be mounted under the van and tap into the fuel tank. But to be honest I'm not that desperate for one as I do most of my winter camping on electric hook up anyway.
I've used stock fuel tubing between pump & heater and exactly as long as manual suggests.
Now thinking it more clearly it makes sense to use hard line there.
My filter is just after tank and has short stock tubing, rest of suction tubing to pump is braided rubber fuel line, some 6 meters.
My only issue is when running out of fuel... getting it running takes some time and likely wear of the pump.
It's funny what you say about the air intake because I ordered yesterday an exhaust pipe to replace it.
Boom I read your mind
Where did you order another exhaust?
@@nmartin5551 you can get them on amazon or ebay 20-30 bucks
Thank you Hugh for the great video. Can you please tell... if I mount the fuelpump to same level with the heater, is it gonna work properly?
Otherwise I must mount the heater higher and theres gonna be a gap between the heater and the camper floor...
You can mount the pump higher or lower than the heater up to a certain amount but it’s quite a lot from what I remember. I would have to double check before I gave you a concrete answer
@@HughTube thanks for the reply, appreciate a lot.
The rubber pipe is better than nylon hose and is a necessity in a boat. Get a better exhaust and use the the existing aluminium one for air intake. Use the simplest on off control unit as less to go wrong. Mount where easily accessible and they're so cheap you can just get a spare if you have problems. Run on maximum power regularly to clean the carbon build up.
Useful video I’ve installed one recently in 16plate boxer wanted to tap into sender unit but forums are saying removing sender unit can be awkward also read something about having limited time to refit sender unit as possible immobiliser issues for some reason , I opted for a tank like Mel uses for now also put the pump underneath on the chassis cross section much quieter , if you manage to tap into sender can you make a video be awesome 👍
Cheers about that, I will definitely show me installing the heater
Good few tips, there, Hugh.. 👍
I've fitted mine, but not wired it yet.
Firstly I discarded the plate and bought a turret plate for £19 with sufficient depth to protect the plywood and insulation layers and protrude through the bodywork..then I had some of the nylon pipe from a previous van. The jubilee clips, are all stainless ones from online. I didn't use any of the ones that came with the unit. When I wire it up, I'll be cutting the battery wires as short as possible, to avoid voltage errors, or maybe changing them to thicker wires.. 🤔
Oh and lastly, I bought some aluminium ducting from Amazon, as the ducting supplied is minimal, considering it came with a T junction and two vents...lol
Great vid..thankya.. 👍
Cheers, some interesting points!
Sprinters and Masters have an aux feed fitted on the sender, it's capped off and is really simple to use. My Ducato had a hatch like your Boxer but bizarrely it did not line up with the sender! External tank to the rescue.
That’s super useful having a pre fitted aux point!
I agree complete with you - thank you for your video, instructions, presentation etc.
I fix and customize vehicles since many years. So I use good parts, to get run without problems.
ie a cheap clamp can become terrible. But no One wants to get this.
So I have a box with good clamps in different sizes.
This shown green tube roll is ie in use for the water system by the windscreen wipers.
Or at fish tanks.
But not for fuel. There are bigger rubber tubes with textile reinforced - mounted in vehicles.
With a small pump like these diesel pumps, you need small tubes.
Made of material, who stays solid, while the pump is soaking.
= you said it right.
Here in germany I use light oil for heating. Even to fill a diesel heater tank.
Because it costs the half price = cheaper as diesel fuel.
And I have 4.500 litres light oil at home.
But it is illegal, to drive a diesel car with light oil.
Starting year 2021, the diesel price climbs up to seven Euro-cents more per litre.
Here in germany.
You can say, a running diesel heater needs not much diesel.
ie a 5 kw heater, who makes 2 kw heating, needs less diesel and less noise, as a 2 kw heater.
But if you let run the diesel heater several hours per day, it will need his fuel. And this costs his price.
thanks and thank you for all the information!
Can you mount the pump 180 degrees upward so the air goes straight to the top and out?
Great video
Al
Yes the pump can be mounted vertically
Have you been moonlighting for Hobbycraft ?🤔 Sure I’ve just seen you in an advert ?! 🤩😆 Would watch you in anything ! 👍🏻
hahaha yes, my SO works in the craft industry and she roped me in.
@@HughTube lol ! Nothing gets passed your eagle eyed DIY Nomads!!! 👀😆
I found the pump very noisy on first installation. Now mounted in a diecast box with filter. The box is on vibration mounts on the caravan chassis rear. I can just hear the pump faintly when in side, if I want to and that is loud enough. Mine is through its own switch at the battery. On at the start of a trip and off on return home. I kept hot air hose to one length and one vent for a 21 ft heavily insulated van in Australian climate. All good.
Bro drew a picture! Awesome video!
I installed one of these on my garden workshop, it was a pig to fit, but once in its a godsend. I use paraffin for fuel, only thing wrong with it is, the amps, on start up I have to turn off any other electrical draw in the workshop. It takes 5-10 minutes for it to warm up and drop its amps. Then I can turn on the solar electrics and all is fine. Massive other tip is on shutdown let it shutdown by itself dont just turn off the machine. It stops it choking up with coke. My health and safety inspection on my workshop they made me fit a Carbon Monoxide detector above it, and a smoke detector, oh the exhaust gets mega mega hot, I wrapped my in a silicone,
Cheers Richard, they do draw a ton of amps on startup! Yeah I mention about letting it do its run down cycle, don't want the control board melting. Another good tip on wrapping the exhaust if it passes near important stuff
Yeah the relay's do!
Hi Max, you mean they have a take off point on the sender unit? I'm going to fit a heater to a 2003 Relay (UK if that makes any odds)... would be fantastic if it is that simple! Any recommendations for heater/stockist welcome btw 🙂👍🏻
the reason they changed from the side filling cap to the one you have with the filling port in the middle is because there is less chance of diesel leakage as its splashing about in there. You do not want any diesel anywhere in your van and its best to either tap into the vehicle supply(difficult for most)or fit a separate external tank. Tanks under the bonnet are not recommended as you also dont want any diesel in the engine bay.
fuel pump tip, spray a little shot of wd40 into the pump before you start priming, that way it has a drop of lube to work with before it gets diesel boom!
Hi Hugh, I hear that those who fitted 5KW diesel heaters in their vans have constant trouble `sooting up` because they never run them for long enough at high temperature (it gets too hot in a confined space), do you think its better to purchase the 2KW version?
Yes you can definitely do this but if you have installed a 5kw one you can run them on full every so often (depends on usage amount) to burn off the soot but yes getting a 2kw would suffice
I fitted mine like Mels Van World does his installs.
Buy a more suitable custom sized tank online that fits your location, I only had space for a small 5 litre (ask for a lid with one way valve)
Buy a fuel outlet tube that fits at the top of the tank. In my case this has two benefits - the tank can't leak fuel at a low point like the standard tanks and you don't need the fuel filter as any impurities sit in the bottom of the tank. Especially because my filter when it was fitted being a cheap part leaked diesel.
Some great info Mark, I personally would still always add a filter but you could get a decent one for pretty cheap
Perfect timing, been looking into diesel heaters for my build
The last tip about overheating the PCB board is why I don't put the heater on a switch. While the controller draws a bit of power even on off, after the heater fully shuts down and cooled, and only when I don't plan to use the heater for the night (say, when I'm done camping in the cold), will I disconnect the controller to prevent a parasitic draw to the house/aux battery.
Hi Hugh,could you tell me the I/D of the rubber tube as I am going to use
the white fuel line, I think it is 5mm I/D, would I be right?.
many thank's
Les
So use direct fused positive to battery
Allowing to cool down and save your PCB electronic printed circuit board .👍
@HughTube what size length do you cut the black rubber fuel hose.
Thanks
Ahhh, the fuel supply line MYTH ! The hard line and rubber hose are legend for weeping diesel fuel. The green line is a upgrade that is more flexible for installation, and providing minimal joints. It does however require clamping more than the plastic. Zip ties with srcrew eyes work well. There have been heaters run with both types of lines, with NO noted differance in performance. The old original webasto heaters came hard line, 3mm inside and 6mm outside dimensions . This used rubber type hose for connection to tank, pump and heater. There should be no air in the system if bleeding was done properly.
Hi great video.
Just purchased one of these, where abouts are you based and how much do you charge to install?
Cheers
Hi Alex, we don't install these for people but thank you for watching the content!
If you're going to recommend alternatives, it would help if you were specific. 'You need this, sort of, hard nylon stuff' is no good. We need specs.