1978 Ford F100 Holley Sniper EFI Install - PARKED FOR YEARS Will It RUN AND DRIVE?
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- čas přidán 2. 07. 2024
- Follow along as I install a Holley Sniper EFI kit on a 1978 Ford F100 400M.
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Weiand 8010 Intake: amzn.to/45ysVkk
Mr. Gasket Carb Studs: amzn.to/3R8H4jE
3/8" Fuel Hose: amzn.to/45MxdUX
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3/8" Fuel Line Fitting: amzn.to/47VbHiD
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Bronco Fuel Sending Unit: amzn.to/45O69EF
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Fuel Cap: amzn.to/3R2hdtY
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@lock_to_lock - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I love those old 70’s F150. They are as tough as nails!
Sweet truck, good luck with this build!
Thanks 👍
Wow! That's a beautiful truck
Thank you, I love it!
Pure gold
You can get the big block Ford version of the Hyperspark distributor and add ignition timing control! Drops right into your 400 and works a treat. Added it to my 1978 F-150.
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely look into that 👍
I've got an Edelbrock EFI on my '68 Ford F-100. She's got a 427 Ford, built to 449 with C-6.
Not sure I love the EFI. Others have said they're more finicky than a nice big four-barrel, and I tend to agree.
We'll see how it goes as I am trying to learn how to fine tune it (with the tablet) but expect to spend some time on that point.
Good luck - lovely truck!
Maybe change the old coil? If it’s going out it usually stops working when it gets to warmer temps.
I swapped in a new Edelbrock coil, but maybe something else in the ignition system is getting hot too. I need to get it warm again and check for spark. Will post another video when I get it sorted!
When you were turning it over by hand around 6:03, it looked like the smog pump is locked up. I look forward to what you find out with the ignition. You might look into the HEI conversion that they sell at Summit. I've had bad luck with Ford ignition systems in the past. I just bought a 1979 Ford F150 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 400. A sniper fuel injection will be on the list of things to do. Getting the AC working is first living in Texas, lol. That is a clean truck and I hope you continue to post vids.
I'll take a look at that HEI conversion as I'm pretty convinced the hot-no-start is ignition related. Also definitely want to get the AC sorted out with this hot summer we've had. Will be posting more on this truck soon, thanks for watching!!
Nice bud! Glad to see ya doing well. Miss ya bud. Hope ya’ll have fun in the Bahamas
Miss y’all too!
Also, you need to introduce the shop pups! 🐾🐾♥
Would love a closer look at your truck. I used to have one here in San Antonio. ❤
So a couple suggestions. First I would look at Fat Fender Garage. They sell a bracket for the sniper display that will fold it up and under your dash and out of sight. Also agree with the folks below about the spark generator. Also, no offense...but read the directions on the sniper. It needs to learn to motor and you need to let it learn, so no revving the motor when it first starts etc. . Good luck and sweet truck!
No offense taken! I got a little excited 😂
I'll take a look at that bracket, thanks!
Please do more videos on the F100. I have a 78 and I am stupid with repairs. It has a 300 4.9L.
Lots more to come!
You made that look too easy! You did get that ONE burnout in. Whoops. hahaha
Hair trigger throttle lights them off easy! haha
BRAP
I dont think this is cousing your issue but i dont like the looks of those lines at your sending unit after u bent them up. Bending them to fit your set up is ok, we do what we gota do with what we have, but how u bent them looks like they might be narrow from almost kinking at the base. Maybey its not as bad as looked to me? But it might be a restriction? I commented on your latest vid my opinion of the efi set up. I aslo cuation you about switching to a aftermarket HEI distributer. Much like the efi system, people switch to a HEI distributor becouse they seem simple. The factory dura spark distributor isnt a complicated distributor. Yes it has a few more wires. They are alil more involved when adjusting timing curves. But still, not really complicated if one takes the time to learn them. I stand by the claim they are far superior distributor & advance system. The big issue is the dura spark ignition boxes. And they are not good. But they can be replaced with msd 6AL boxes and still keep the distributors and are much better. You have a nice truck. I work with these old fords all the time all my life. I love them! I hate to see someone get taken with all the marketing with cheap junk aftermarket parts becouse they dont know better & believe they are modernizing or making it simple. If you put inferior parts on, its not simpler. It might be modernized though? But talking from experiance of seeing problem after problem with some of these parts just to come back to some of the original equipment, just learning how to tune it properly or what should be kept & what ahould be replaced with aftermarket stuff, i want to try to speak up for those who might not know. I want to keep these trucks running & on the road.
I was a little concerning with the kinking in those lines myself, but it seems to be building pressure just fine and there are no leaks so far! Keeping my fingers crossed for now. I plan on keeping this distributor for the time being, I want to make it work if I can.
I just watched your video, I'm planning on putting the Holley sniper on my car. I noticed two things. They recommend an open spacer under the throttle body and your temperature sensor needs to be before the thermostat. Do you have any updates?
So far the truck runs better and better as I drive it more, and as for the temp sensor I have had no troubles getting a good reading from the top of the housing. These have worked for me, but I'm sure there are better ways.
did you triple check that AZ gave you the correct T-Stat? nearly every time - they give you one for a 351W. It will fit but will not work correctly and cause it to run hot. Ask me how I know...
It usually stays around 190ish, but sometimes creeps up to 200 when I'm sitting idling in traffic. Though I think that may have something to do with the idle being set to 650rpm, I might raise it to get that fan drawing more air.
@@lock_to_lock I rewatched the video - looks like the t-stat might be ok - here is another video that provides a good example of how and why its important (czcams.com/video/NGmu3PCdiQY/video.htmlsi=6tECxsF8bhdwhvGN). I have a 77 with a 400 - really enjoying your videos!
The 351/400M motors were seriously detuned by Ford for emission and detonation issues. Unfortunately they did so with engine internals not programming. IMO to get any response out of them you need a cam, timing set and new dampener. An RV style cam is fine, not suggesting you are building a race motor. Until you undo what Ford retarded the top end has nothing to work with.
Beautiful condition at least in what you have shown. Good luck with it.
There is not now or was then, a 400M motor. The 351M and 400 are different engines.
Most of engine problems come from ignition timing. Carbs get blame for everything.
Did you just eliminate the kickdown rod?
Yes I did.
The design of the sniper is a pita when it comes to old ford’s. Holley sort of failed on the design as the ecu control unit for the sniper is mounted in the front of the unit, and a rf radio interference aka the distributor generator sits right in the front tweaking out the computer. Run a super sniper on my 72 ranchero which has a cleveland stroker and chased my tail for months trying to get it right. Some of the biggest things I noticed that solved my problems is to check all the wiring for the sniper. Make sure both the main power supply wires are connected directly to the battery. Also the pink wire that tells the sniper the ignition key is on, that it is isolated from a noisy circuit. One way to combat that is get one of those universal relay/ wiring kits from one of the big part’s retailers and wire the power source wire to the ignition on circuit and put the pink wire by itself. Also go on amazon and get a ferrite bead kit that snaps onto wires and put one on each output and input wire coming out of the sniper unit. There are also some companies that make a rf shield that mounts on the two intake studs the sniper mounts to and it shields the ecu from interference. Lastly get rid of the steel air cleaner stud and get some plastic threaded rod as this isolates the main unit of the sniper from the air cleaner which acts as a rf antenna making the problem worse. I’d also get a better alternator better suited for electronic controlled devices, the stock alternator would not cut it for me so I upgraded to a 180 amp 1 wire gm style alternator. You don’t need one that big as you aren’t running electronic fans like I am. Also checkout efi system pro, hit them up for some pro tuning and it runs great, the guy who runs the place even built me a tune to run e85 fuel. Either way good luck and like the truck a lot.
Also forgot one thing, make up a ground wire and grind off some paint on the sniper where it mounts to the intake, and attach the other end of the wire to the motor to make a better ground for the sniper.
Thanks for the helpful tips!
@@lock_to_lock not a problem, when money is better I’d like to sell the super sniper and get a terminator as it utilizes a remote ecu and also has knock sensor capability. All for 2500 lol.
is the engine getting enough fuel?
I’m pretty sure it is, the gauge is showing pressure. Thinking it’s ignition related. Another video on this truck is coming soon!
I dont like old Ford trucks but that's actually real nice
I got rid of most of my PS whine by flushing the pump and adding new ATF
For sale?
No way Josè! My woman would kill me 🤣
@@lock_to_lock 😆🤣 I hear ya bro...lol
La camioneta está muy original lástima que le estás remplazado todo sin necesidad y pierde mucha originalidad como el tanque es mejor le unieras limpiado y pintar el tanque de gas 😢
lo siento