Hachioji 2019: World Championship Routesetting
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- čas přidán 3. 12. 2019
- For this second episode of the route setting video documentary, we spend one week with the routesetting team in Japan for the Boulder World Championship.
This documentary describes the setting experience, mostly following a hard final round for the men, where only Tomoa Narasaki managed two tops. No other climber topped a boulder.
It was a pretty special competition including the World Championship of the three disciplines and the combined Olympic format. We only focused on the Boulder World Championship and tried to understand the process of the routesetting for a competition at this level.
You will get a glimpse behind the scene of the biggest climbing event of 2019.
Interview with Manuel Hassler (Chief IFSC Route Setter), Romain Cabessut, Katja Vidmar and Gen Hirashima (IFSC Route Setters)
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This is a work of art, so incredibly good. Also very interesting to see the intended beta on those men's boulders that weren't topped.
When he flipped his body from one side to the other (at 8:00) blew my mind! I see why they made this video and in the way they did, it's hard to reconcile having a vision in your routesetting (and competitive bouldering in general) and building routes that are 'safe' (i.e. will be topped in 4 min). The move at 8:00 is so interesting due to the level of spatial awareness needed to even realize this move is an option in that position, really cool to see. Plus they all look hella strong!
A really beautiful and thought provoking look behind the scenes at a competition that a lot of people, including myself, found very disappointing. Really increased my appreciation for the challenges of route setting at this level even though I may dislike the style of problems that ended up on the wall in this case. Should be a feature length film.
These totaly have a future and a place in Reel Rock movies for example in my opinion.
Honest, unique and well worded characters with a huge impact on the modern climbing scene.
The cinematic take on emotional distress allongside the fantastic audio... this is so well edited it haunts me that this channel / these documentaries dont get enough recognition yet.
please never stop, ALLEZ!
Incroyable documentaire, qui montre les interrogations et questionnements des ouvreurs tout en faisant passer des émotions! Enfin l'élaboration d'une profession dans l'ombre...
Super well made look into the other side of climbing! I think many people don't understand how incredibly hard routesetting for competitions must be. You just have to hit that fine line between the boulders being easy enough to get tops but also being hard enough to only be sent by the very strongest.
And if you fail at that task, you are the one to blame and a loads of people will criticise on the routsetters/ing.
Also, very interesting to see how strong the routesetters are as climbers too!
It's so exciting to see the ups and downs you have as a route setter. It's a thin line between a route that's too hard or too easy and you can never know if the climbers have a good or a bad day - and in the end everything depends on that. We rarely see this side. Thanks for sharing!
Bravo Mathieu Super psyched by your work as always. We need more pieces of emotion like this one. Thank you Jacky
Seeing the other side of the competition is epic ! I would LOVE to see the setters express their feelings about a contest that they have created. Thank you for this I really enjoyed it and I really hope to see more of those
what exactly was the failure? which was the round that was so important, what was special about the boulder, how come they set it that way during preparation? would have loved some more answers and insights instead of slow-mos set to Blade Runner soundtracks and vapid comments about how much everyone respects each other...
You perfectly described the issues plaguing climbing videos lately. "Blade Runner soundtracks", I'm saving this for later.
you didn't actually watch it, did you?
@@jacobkraus121 Man, why get so insulting?
I agree with you to some extant, the filmmaking is outstanding on this, but I feel he is right in saying there are a little too few answers in the film. I could have watched this for another 20 minutes, if it would have gone more into detail and actually explained a bit more of their motivation behind setting the boulders in this way.
Anyway, just be nicer man. We're all a community of climbers!
Jacob Kraus, why blindly attack someones character for simply asking questions and stating opinions? I thought this was an interesting and insightful film about an aspect of climbing that I have always been curious of. I also think that Simon Reichel ‘s question were valid and I found myself, having not watched the competition, wondering the same things.
@@jacobkraus121 was für ein unnötig herablassender Kommentar. Die Kritik ist völlig gerechtfertigt. In der Doku wird nicht darauf eingegangen, was im Finale passiert ist und warum man das als Fehler werten kann. Das ist erzählerisch einfach schlecht gemacht und hat nichts mit amerikanischer Konsumsucht zu tun.
After watching finals in salt lake city 2021, I miss this level of thinking and creativity put towards making these boulders in Hachioji😔
0:20 sequence of shots is amazing, I love how they show attempts where the climber almost has the move dialed and understood but the optimal position and techniques of the move are just so interesting and subtle that the margin of error is TINY, and really shows it in slow motion 🆒
example 0:36 you can see his left hand turn into crimping as his tips are the only thing exerting downwards pressure on the slopey dish, until momentum wins and spits him off
3:04 too... crazy finger strength to generate that level of body swing
Beyond the content I love how well the video was done. With love for aesthetics and detail. Calm, yet atmospheric. It really made me deeply curious instead of "hammering on a pay attention button".
One of the best climbing videos I've ever watched. And I've watched plenty!!! I love the French guy, he is so calm. Finally a thoughtful and aesthetic video rather than these ever-energetic action clips. Please please more!!! :)))
And I don't think the comp was a failure. Of course, competition outcomes like this should rather be the exception than the rule. But they don't have to be all the same. Like this, we're always going to remember this "brutally hard one" in Japan, while all the others will be forgotten in a few years... I think the climbers can take it. At the same time, it gave Narasaki the chance to shine. How awesome for him.
Really interesting video. I would have watched an hour of that !
Great to see the routsetters intended beta and the one chosen by the competitors.
Good editing, great job. Thanks
I absolutely love you guys for putting music from Lorn in your video
We need way more of those videos. The quality is extraordinary
This is an exceptionally well done movie!
The imagery is subtle yet sharp and the music pulls it all together.
Such a great film, thanks for sharing this. Manu seems like such am amazing person as well as the rest of the team 👍
So well done from beginning to end.
This video is sooooo good. Please share more videos like this. Thank you for sharing BTW. It is always good to give credits to all the route setters.
Next level videography here...dont see that very often.
Absolutely beautiful video
epic. next level design work here. great to see a reflection on this event.
Last time i picked up some amazing music from your video. Hope its the same thing here!)
edit: Oh yes it is. Whoever does audio design should do movies or something. The atmosphere of tension was relayed beautifully
Awesome video! Enjoyed watching 👍
Great video, inspiring !
Soooo nice!! Great work to see the other side..
Awesome work keep it coming Legends
Wow. Amazing short movie. Setters have the hardest job out there. You are either undervalued or guilty when failure happens.
I remember feeling annoyed by watching this particular men´s boulder where nobody could move pass the round sloper. Seeing Manuel solving it gracefully with the 360 was shocking.
Would love to see more videos about this uncertain future of bouldering comps.
Keep it up!
Superbe vidéo, bravo !
Trabalham silenciosamente, concentradamente, sem platéia, eles são os responsáveis pela magia do esporte, verdadeiros técnicos, ... #gratidao
Does anyone know the name of the intro song?
Its not in the description
Nice ! More routesetting videos !
I love the initial compilation of your route setting destroying its foes
Super intéressant, images très belles, un peu plus de contexte aiderait à comprendre le désarroi de l'ouvreur sur ce "round" raté.
Wondering if the ones hit the like button are the same ones who were criticizing harshly on the setting at Hachioji.
good sound editing.
this music fits funeral or Lunar landing. Rest is great!
I feel like you would have to assume that if the route setter(s) could even do the move, regardless of attempts, that the climbers that are devoting their lives to training in this style would certainly have a shot at completing any given route in the allotted time. I understand the setter’s disappointment in the round, but the same climbers on a different day could have had drastically different results. Surely “chance” has more bearing on this style than climbers and setters might like to admit.
I love these videos and hope to create some similar one day, big inspiration, but I ask one thing... Please invest in a gimbal or a stabilizer so you don't have to use so much warp stabilizer.
Hey Tanner! Thanks for your comments. I understand what you are saying, and trust me, I also wish some of the shots were more stable. I get this comment from times to times so I will take time to explain a little bit.
Here's a few elements that makes it hard to use a gimbal/stabilizer:
This is mainly a one-man crew (i.e me) shooting 12 hours a day for more than a week. Budget is very tight. I have to be alert for anything interesting happening during the week, and sometimes, depending on the situation (light, angle, people working around me, ladders, etc), I only have time to pick up the camera, turn it on and press record to get what I want. I need to always know what's happening in a pretty big area, so having an easy and somewhat light setup is essential. I often find myself running to get a shot. Sometimes people work around me, fall on the mats beside me, etc. It's very much a run-and-gun situation. I wish I had a whole filming crew with me but it's not possible.
Also, I'm using manual focus on a fast lense to make sure the scenes are properly lit and that I can still achieve some kind of shallow depth of field (just a preference and also it gives me some creative liberties while shooting ). Most of the times the lighting is very bad during the setting so I shoot wide open. Manual focus + gimbal is not possible most of the time.
During the different rounds, it always proved to be a challenge to film especially during finals. I had to navigate between the IFSC organizers, the Japanese TV right holders, language barriers, the different officials, judges and the many conflicting interests at stake. Trust me, at this specific event, with the Olympics coming soon, it was very serious and chaotic. Not really any flexibility from anyone. At some point, I realized no one had really talked to each other even though this was planned months ahead. In the end, the only viable option to film during the finals was with a very long lense on a high bipod in a very specific spot in front of the stage. Definitly not the best for stable footage. Everything was happening very fast and I had to make sure I got the footage I needed. As I'm shooting this, I have to make sure my pacing is okay for the up coming climbers, that I have the right angles for the moves I want to shoot. Sometimes I find myself shooting a climber while looking at another climber 10 metres to the right to make sure I'm ready to change scene if something interesting happens or is about to happen.
Anyway, hopefully this makes it easier to understand why some of these shots are not perfect. I always strive to improve and keep all comments in mind for future productions, but understanding the conditions under which these films are shot is imperative.
Nice video, but I was disappointed watching Hachioji - too much unnatural movement, everything so awkward, and multi-part coordination dynos are just not fun (for me) to watch. It would be lovely to have aesthetic moves and not just aesthetic volumes, and less parkour.
please Japanese translate
whats up with the depressive/dark music?...its routesetting not a fcking drama film...
Stop the parkour!!
@MetraMan09 Outdoor bouldering on natural rock has almost zero parkour. It's an indoor invention to garner more eyeballs and sell "entertainment." The sad truth is old school power crimp sets have flat out died.
What a terrible audio
Bad routesetting :(