World Cup climbers and setters exploring movements
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2023
- "In bouldering competitions, there is limited time and opportunity for route setters to explore new movements. Route setters are always under pressure and have no time to push new concepts to their limit. They often have to make quick decisions in order to split the ranking and create an interesting show.
Manuel Hassler (Flathold co-owner) decided to create a collaborative space and invited some international route setters to join two of the world's best competition climbers (Olympic Champion Janja Garnbret (SLO) and two-time overall IFSC Boulder World Cup winner Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN).
The idea was to create a new playground for the setters and the athletes to explore route settings outside of the competition circuit and try to push ideas to a new dimension."
Featuring: Janja Garnbret, Yoshiyuki Ogata, Manuel Hassler, Pierre Broyer, Katja Vidmar and Gen Hirashima
Directed by: Mathieu Achermann
Camera: Joao Prates, Mathieu Achermann
Edit: Mathieu Achermann
Color Grading: Romain Do - Pandado Studio
English Subtitles: Natalie Berry - Sport
I wish after competitions finish and the podium is done, the route setters come out and demo their intended beta! Would be hugely insightful
The setters wouldn’t be able to do most of the boulders
They don’t need to do the whole bolder but indicating how they meant the bolder and also just knowing who is behind the bolder would be a great ad to the comps
@@seanhouchins-mccallum1961I assure you most of the route setters can absolutely do their own boulders. They’re mad strong. It’s the four minute limit for competitors that makes it tricky
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Bruh they are thrashed after setting and forerunning for a comp. They likely don't have much skin left at that point. That's asking a lot
To see Yoshiyuki compliment Janja (and the other way around) was very cool. You don't get to see male and female professional boulders (at their caliber) collab that much.
Can you imagine if ifsc Livestreams had this quality of filming
This video makes me realize that the ifsc has a lot of work to do on the filming side of things in order to better convey this new bouldering style.
Absolutely, especially while live casting the competition (for example, not filming only from behind, a terrible idea to show the overhang/roof profile).
a lot more funding needs to pour into these events for a lot of the "wishlist" things (like more cameras etc). It all costs money, usually more than most people think. They'll get there when they have a slot on mainstream sports television and there are large corporate sponsors.
Couldn't agree more. Hopefully the Olympics and continued popularity bring some more money to the production of IFSC events
I like dynamic style but it would be cool sometimes to see some beautiful static style boulders in competition.
It would be very hard to set because of how insanely strong these climbers are. Most of them can do one-armers on 8-10mm edges. They tried for the Olympics but it didn't work out sadly.
The top climbers are just too strong on static and crimps. It's almost impossible to set a line where all competitors wouldn't top it. Comp climbers arent just climbers now, they are pure athletes with incredible motor skills, dynamic power, route reading, shoulder strength etc! This new comp climbing style is also more impressive and far more entertaining imo than watching small moves on small holds. I certainly get what you saying though - they could easily do some hard replicas of outdoor climbs. Maybe they will... Maybe the occasional old school pulling routes will trend again in the near future as climbing and route setting is constantly changing and evolving ✌️
with the new dual-texture holds introduced this wc we might see some more very slabby static boulders which would be pretty nice.
There was one boulder last season where yannick was the only one to top through a ridiculously shouldery move. Probably my favorite boulder from the season
@@milksushi6640 I remember that, it was insane and one of my faves too.
the productionvalue of this video considering the amount of subscribers is insane
It's amazing how modern bouldering keeps evolving and new moves are still being "discovered". The combination of strength, explosiveness, coordination, flexibility and creativity really sets this sport apart.
Epic video ! Loved it. When I clicked on the video I was expecting unknown climbers that would try the boulders. Was hugely surprised when I saw Yoshiyuki and Janja. They didn't invite anybody :)
this is SUCH a cool project!!!!!! and i bet i'm not alone in saying it fulfills a dream of seeing janja and elite male athletes climbing the same boulders! just awesome - i have saved it, and shared it, and will watch many times, i think - THANK YOU FOR DOING THIS AND SHARING IT WITH US
Mathieu your colour grading is so good
Color Grading by Pandado Studio ;)
So cool to see Janja taking it on with the boys!
High quality content as always, wish there was more 😄
This is so cool to watch. Always want to see Janja try boy's problem. And it's good to know how route setter evolve their problems.
Great concept and amazing production, but it is really disheartening to see such blatant disregard for the obvious safety hazard in the last boulder, a jump into a volume half covered in a slippery surface. Both elite climbers almost smacked their faces into it. I really appreciate the creativity and preparation time from the setters, but in the last problem it really looked like they were more interested in the spectacle aspect, rather than actually being a challenge and test for the physical abilities of the athletes.
this is one of the coolest videos ive seen in a while, super well put together, from the ideas, to the filmography, incredible!
The evolution of indoor climbing is amazing to watch. Beautiful movement riddles.
C'est incroyable de voir que les blocs qui semblent aujourd'hui normaux n'étaient il y a quelques années encore que des idées. Et c'est sûr que c'est vraiment enrichissant de voir les athlètes et les ouvreurs collaborer ainsi, pour expérimenter de nouveaux mouvements qu'on voit ensuite aux coupes/championnats du monde ! Ça donne une visibilité énorme et ça permet à ces mouvements de se propager partout !
Encore une fois, la qualité de ce court métrage est absolument fascinante. Bravo 👏
Great video, awesome route setters and 2 of my favourite climbers. Can't ask for more... Wait, I can! More of this please! :D
this is porn for boulderers. extremely well done! thank you for creating this gem.
14:06 watch her bottom hand. How far it slides shows how she was just on the brink of making the move.
I love how climbing is such a creative and collaborative sport!!
Tobin! Instant like.
This was such an awesome video to see the insight behind setters ideas in new movements and combining this with 2 of the best climbers in the world! Super cool to see how movement is being pushed further and further, and makes me excited as a Routesetter to see how this discipline is being further developed and explored!
Perfect filming and editing, insane ideas and amazing climbers ❤
Nice video! Really enjoyed it!
Pls bring back some oldschool comps
This video is so well planned and executed, nice work!
This was dope! Love seeing the process.
Incredible as always 🤩🙏⚡️
One of the coolest video I saw for a while, please make a series with this concept!
Such a cool video & concept !
It would be fun if they could do some creative classical style boulders aswelll, closer to "normal" climbing but with fun new twists.
Most of these boulders are like 1 in a million to find outside for example.
Magnifique ! Ça fait plaisir de voir une vidéo comme ça qui montre le positionnement des ouvreurs internationaux lorsqu’ils cherchent à aller plus loin dans la création de mouvement dans un bloc ! Avec en plus la possibilité de voir des athlètes d’un tel niveau dans les blocs ça nous montre vraiment l’étendu de la difficulté que ça doit être de caler un bloc dans une compte internationale ! Avec en plus des retours en français qui font très plaisir 🦾
Incredibly interesting to watch!
Great choice of music
Top tier quality video 🔥
This show and explain that setter are not on a single person “it’s a team”
Creating and evolving in every competition
Well done 🎉
Keep it up
Great video!
Amazing
Amazing video!
Great video
Masterclass ✨
Great video. Can’t wait to see what gym climbing looks like in 5 years. It’s already becoming so much fun. Good change of pace from outdoor climbing. I love both outdoor and indoor climbing, but for different reasons, hopefully haters can get on the same page at some point.
wow this is really good !
Wow this was an amazing video ! hope it wont be the only one.
Amazing video and sounds selection ! We want more like this please !
Janja is a weapon.
This really supports my theory that arm span is the only thing that would get in the way of Janja dominating on the mens circuit
sooooooo nice
Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖
0:07: Introduction
2:07: First Boulder
9:23: Second Boulder
14:51: Third Boulder
18:37: Conclusion
I
WOW
yoshiyuki is such a handsome man woww hahaha
Do someone know which makita impact they use?
🤩🤩🤩
What gym was this made at!
I am severely jealous to the point of resentment. I would cut one of my own kidneys out for the chance to set a v1 at my local gym.
Have you tried asking them nicely?
Vidéo incroyable merci mais en tant que prévôtois je n’ai qu’une question en tête. Est ce que c’était filmé à la Petermann ? Bref désolé pour la question. Je me réjouis de la prochaine 👏🏼
Non le vidéo a été tournée à Bienne au centre d'entrainement de l'équipe suisse.
incredible film, but as weve seen in the japan worldcup on mens final boulder nr. 4, its hard to make such difficult, complex moves in 4 Minutes
Well to be fair Paul Jenft looked pretty close to do the move, and Mejdi made it look pretty easy after the competition. I think sometimes the setters have to take some chances if it's not just gonna be a matter of who can do the boulders in the fewest tries
Maybe overcomplicating it but it would be nice if they gave one boulder more than 4 minutes. Then we could really see both Setting + Climbing creativity come to life. But of course, who knows if it works on TV.
Maybe overcomplicating it but it would be nice if they gave one boulder more than 4 minutes. Then we could really see both Setting + Climbing creativity come to life. But of course, who knows if it works on TV.
@@ghinwamoujaes9059 I suggest giving extra time for climber who finish before 4 minutes For example, If route1 flash within 1 minute You have extra 3 mins + for the next route. 😆
@@Terralink24 agree, but theres a certain limit with creativeness and complexness within boulders if the time limit is at 4min. maybe that one was close but you cant change more because 4min is like 5 or 6 tries
What is the song at 6 mins? It's not what's listed there, i need it
Babou the dog - two fingers & Cujo (amon tobin)
czcams.com/video/9a_T2AIzJr4/video.html
Zajebisty
In the background u can hear adam beyer b2b carl cox
Intro song is from Moderat. Shame it's not tagged.. can't just use people's art without referencing :D
All music are credited at the end of the movie
Paddle move is kind of boring anyway.
YeH, this is literally not the stuff you see outdoors. Climbing has totally become parkour. Everything is ninja warrior. I don’t get it.