I'm amazed at how many different and creative topics Gavin covers. His enthusiasm and technical ability make for great tutorials. Thanks, Gavin and Adorama!
How in the world can 26 people dislike this video? What would there be to dislike. The test and techniques were well explained and well-executed. Maybe competitors of his or Adorama. Either way, another great video by Gavin Hoey, who has to be the premier CZcams video instructor. Just has to be.
I own 3 Canon 600 EX-RT speedlights, this makes me think whether a future investment in the monolight is worth it or to weigh up investing in a larger softbox. I've had good results with my speedlights and this shows it performs reasonably well.
Another cracking episode by Mr. Gavin Hoey. I've given HSS with a speedlite, and it's very confusing to start with. My thanks to Gavin for explaining the in's and out's of what you can achieve with the humble Speedlite to gain detail in the sun-lit background, if you know what you're doing. More practice for me I think.
I did outdoor senior photos recently and I used my Godox V1 w/honeycomb snap on. I was consistently firing at 1/400-1/800 and using the the ETTL +/-, usually between -1 and -2. I took well over 500 shots for 40-50 students and the recycle time never dipped and my battery never dropped below half. Best $230 I ever spent
This is great information. I just got into photography and I was about to spend a lot of money on a set of Monolights but I see that some inexpensive Speedlights will serve me just as well, thanks!
Great video. Since I have both, I’m usually carrying both but you’ve shown me the borderline. Likely would not have gone through the trials and the speedlite did better than I expected. I may be able to travel lighter than I thought! This is why you are the best! Best to Sam!
This was a great comparison video, Gavin. I was thinking of upgrading my old Sekonic light meter but having watched you, I think I can make do for a bit longer.
Another topic which shows just how easy it can done with Gavin's explanation. For me the use of speedlites is very relative as I do not own studio flash and I am unlikely to either. The cost and size. Speedlites are very portable, light and cheap to buy. A possible alternative is godox AD200 which is small and powerful. I am lookin to buy a used one or two !
With HSS I mostly get by with Speedlights with magmod modifiers, right time of the day, and lots of lightroom edits 😉😄not ideal but gotta work with what you have
1) He's using the meter incorrectly. You don't point it at the light, you point it at the camera so it meters the light AS ITS FALLING on the subject. That's an incident reading. 2)High speed sync is just straight flash photography the way he demonstrated. To actually DO high speed sync requires a leaf shutter, something that flash syncs at whatever speed you are using, hence the HIGH SPEED. More commonly 'high speed sync' is used to describe using the strobe to stop motion since the flash duration is always going to be faster than a physical shutter. 3)Look at the "fill" flash. The flash is actually the key light, its brighter than the ambient. For portraits the fill should be up to a stop under the key light so you meter the ambient at your sync speed and adjust power so its just below the ambient..hence FILL flash. 4)Of course the light is going to look the same, he's using the same size modifier at the same distance. Duh. There is also a reason he's doing all this under an overcast sky, its because its WAY more difficult to do strobe when its competing against direct sun. Most portables just don't have the power. Example: direct sun ISO 100 f22 @250th (fastest flash sync speed of most cameras). You need a strobe strong enough to expose at a f16, minimum, for a nice 1:2 fill. Check your manual and see at what distance your strobe can do that. I'm betting its 5' or less. Throw a softbox on it and that sucks up another half stop. This is when you break out the generator and a powerful strobe. This is why most photographers opt for a reflector instead of strobe fill in direct sun. Either that or they float a large silk over the subject to knock down the ambient.
Another thing to consider is the shutter speed needed for freezing high speed action. If you have to shoot a soccer player in the middle of a sunny day and she is leaping into the air the speedlight won't have the horsepower to overpower the ambient light and freeze the action. Yes, you can gang your speedlights to get a decent result, but that's a pretty tedious and time consuming setup and take down. Life is easier, and my photos are better, since I switched from my beloved speedlights to monolights.
I really thought the speedlight would have more trouble with the second test than with the third. That is surprising. What I like to do (I shoot speedlights only) is combine two or more speedlights. They each require less power, which means they're faster and more durable. It's easy to find speedlight bracket to accomodate up to 4 of them. It does not work for everything, of course, but it works for about 80% of the time, which is good enough for me.
Gavin always has an informative video. I was a little surprised at the speed light going belly up that fast. I use them with HSS all the time and have never run into that problem. I think he was probably shooting faster than I normally do.
Thank you Mr Hoey for this very helpful video sir. I love the creative outcome from a monolight, but for now my wife and I are using Yongnuo YN560 IV's. Of course they're not HSS but they do extremely well. I cant afford a HSS strobe light at the moment but I have been wandering if I could produce images with my speedlites similar to those of a monolight. I am still learning speedlites, so this video along with many of your other videos has been very helpful. Thank you once again for your awesome videos, you have become my mentor, I love your creative work.
Thanks for the kind words Jojo. You have to make the best of what you have and the speedlight surpassed my exceptions but... the flexibility of a location monolight is hard to beat.
Great, understandable (even by me) video Gavin. I appreciate you using a flash meter that ordinary joes and jills might use. But I notice you using an Olympus EM5MK3, which makes me wonder how you swung that one because the common folk are still waiting for availability......
So 1/2 power on a 600w monlight gives the same reading as 1/1 power on a speedlight and 1/4 power in HSS from a monolight is about equal to 1/2 power in HSS from a speedlight. Therefore the speedlight is one stop less powerfull than the monolight at about 300w.
Great test!!! I’m always concern if the light modifier size matters, I meant for the amount of outcome light. I have seen that the bigger modifier, the softest light.... so I own a Godox V860 speedlight, but I’m not sure if a 43” modifier will be too big, and I’ll run out of light for full body shoots? What is your advice? Thanks
I do not (yet) own a monolight, instead am using Flashpoint 685's with a 960 battery. I'm wondering if that will temporarily solve the recycle time issue when using high speed sync with the speed light (until the more powerful flash is purchased)? Seems like some practice and testing is in order. Very useful video, Mr. Hoey! Thanks.
Great video with surprising results. As far as the speedlight stopping, is that maybe just the battery overheating? Could you swap out another battery and keep shooting theoretically?
Great challenge! I was surprised as well. I have that same setup, so it good to know... if in a weight or size pinch, I could leave the Monolight at the studio.
One cuestion. How you meter the flash wihthout flashmeter been afected by the ambient light,? I mean, isolate the flash light measure from the ambient light measure?
Thank you for making this video. Sure, speedlights has a plenty of limitations but it can do a lot more than what most you tube photographers will care to tell us.
I feel stupid for not knowing remotely triggered lights were a thing! That is awesome! I do love the portability of the flash gun softbox setups but that is still very very cool
Great video tutorial on comparing of strobe to a speed light on location. if you’re shooting less than 20 shots in a session, then speed light is fine. Otherwise, if you’re shooting more than 20 shots in a session, a strobe light is better. This is especially true at high-speed sync mode.
So, that being said, can a speedlight handle bigger softboxes than the 38 inch one showed in the video or do we need a bulb-head + more power in order to fill the larger area?
Hi David. A speedlight can handle any size of light modifier. The difference is the amount of light it produces and what is "enough" light for you. Bare bulbs tend to give more even coverage in a light modifier but again, your preference for that my vary.
@@GavinHoey I see. Certainly understandable as it would lower power output of the flashes, specially that little speedlight. Thank you for your answer. That puts things into perspective of what the speedlight can accomplish.
Thanks again for a great video! I just recently got a TT685 for my Fuji camera and while I can't afford a huge softbox yet, I'll experiment with one of those 20x30cm ones that velcro onto the speedlight. Now, just need to find the courage to find a model for me... hmm.
Great video, as always. I noticed you are using the EM5III, and the pictures look great. I'm really thinking about switching out my Canon 7DII and 24-70 USMII lens which feels like it weighs 200 pounds after lugging it along all day, to the EM5III. I know you switched from Canon and never looked back.
The flash stopped working with the HSS after, you mentioned, 18 shots (in your case). Was this really due to the flash overheating OR the batteries just ran out?
I'm amazed at how many different and creative topics Gavin covers. His enthusiasm and technical ability make for great tutorials. Thanks, Gavin and Adorama!
My favorite photo teacher, Gavin, thanks
Always great Gavin.
Those dislikes are from photographers with a lot of equipment and less results.
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA yeeeeeeeesssssss.... hahahahahahaha
What dislikes..?? We can’t see them anymore. So lame of YT. 👊🏼
I always love your videos. You speak in plain English, you keep things simple and easy to understand. Thank you!!
How in the world can 26 people dislike this video? What would there be to dislike. The test and techniques were well explained and well-executed. Maybe competitors of his or Adorama. Either way, another great video by Gavin Hoey, who has to be the premier CZcams video instructor. Just has to be.
I believe some people just give a thumbs down no matter the subject or quality of the video.
Exactly the video I have been looking for. Answered all my questions about metering ambient light outdoors with a meter and using HSS. Thanks Gavin!
My gosh she is gorgeous in that setting. That said, thank you for the great lesson.
I own 3 Canon 600 EX-RT speedlights, this makes me think whether a future investment in the monolight is worth it or to weigh up investing in a larger softbox. I've had good results with my speedlights and this shows it performs reasonably well.
Im 100% convinced I only need speed lights now..I currently have 2! Im going to just get another 2-4
I would have never thought about a 25 mm for portraits. I enjoyed that aspect of the video as well. So it was a 2 for 1. Well done Gavin.
Michael Kantor as long as you don't put it too close :-)
25mm is equivalent to a 50mm on a 4/3rds camera like Gavin's Olympus.
25mm lens but his camera has a 2x multiplier being micro 4/3. So this is a 50mm equivalent.
Hi Michael. It's worth mentioning that 25mm on Olympus (Micro FourThirds) equates to the field of view of a 50mm on a full frame camera.
Another cracking episode by Mr. Gavin Hoey. I've given HSS with a speedlite, and it's very confusing to start with. My thanks to Gavin for explaining the in's and out's of what you can achieve with the humble Speedlite to gain detail in the sun-lit background, if you know what you're doing. More practice for me I think.
Gavin Hoey is simply superb. Lots of energy.
IMO the best explanation/demonstration of HSS in a YT video I've seen.
Thanks Glenn 😊
Gavin for President & Prime Minster of New Photograhia!!!!
I did outdoor senior photos recently and I used my Godox V1 w/honeycomb snap on. I was consistently firing at 1/400-1/800 and using the the ETTL +/-, usually between -1 and -2.
I took well over 500 shots for 40-50 students and the recycle time never dipped and my battery never dropped below half.
Best $230 I ever spent
And one can get out of HSS weakness with ND filters! Great stuff!
Photos amazing. Model is amazing. Information very useful. Your personality and expertise...great
This is great information. I just got into photography and I was about to spend a lot of money on a set of Monolights but I see that some inexpensive Speedlights will serve me just as well, thanks!
I could watch your videos all day long mate 👍👍😊
Great video. Since I have both, I’m usually carrying both but you’ve shown me the borderline. Likely would not have gone through the trials and the speedlite did better than I expected. I may be able to travel lighter than I thought!
This is why you are the best! Best to Sam!
Gavin makes the best Adorama videos!
Killer vid and killer music at 7:10.
I saw that beautiful reflection on the surface of the plane when you were shooting high speed sync at a shallow depth of F1.2. Beautiful shot. :)
Thanks Brian 👍
This was a great comparison video, Gavin. I was thinking of upgrading my old Sekonic light meter but having watched you, I think I can make do for a bit longer.
My favorite photographer. Great vid.
Another topic which shows just how easy it can done with Gavin's explanation. For me the use of speedlites is very relative as I do not own studio flash and I am unlikely to either. The cost and size. Speedlites are very portable, light and cheap to buy. A possible alternative is godox AD200 which is small and powerful. I am lookin to buy a used one or two !
Absolutely beautiful images!!! Perfect model for the composition as well. Great comparison of the lights. I love your videos
wow everything about outdoor speed light photography in a one video! great. thanks!
With HSS I mostly get by with Speedlights with magmod modifiers, right time of the day, and lots of lightroom edits 😉😄not ideal but gotta work with what you have
You'r is my master photography, tnks so mch gavin🙏🙏
He is the best teacher ever
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thank you Gavin.
💥 Charlotte makes any photographers work look great. Quite a beauty and great work as always, Gavin.
Nice work, thanks for sharing.
Love your videos, looks like the speed light Can keep up with moonlight; but what about a sunny day?
1) He's using the meter incorrectly. You don't point it at the light, you point it at the camera so it meters the light AS ITS FALLING on the subject. That's an incident reading.
2)High speed sync is just straight flash photography the way he demonstrated. To actually DO high speed sync requires a leaf shutter, something that flash syncs at whatever speed you are using, hence the HIGH SPEED. More commonly 'high speed sync' is used to describe using the strobe to stop motion since the flash duration is always going to be faster than a physical shutter.
3)Look at the "fill" flash. The flash is actually the key light, its brighter than the ambient. For portraits the fill should be up to a stop under the key light so you meter the ambient at your sync speed and adjust power so its just below the ambient..hence FILL flash.
4)Of course the light is going to look the same, he's using the same size modifier at the same distance. Duh. There is also a reason he's doing all this under an overcast sky, its because its WAY more difficult to do strobe when its competing against direct sun. Most portables just don't have the power. Example: direct sun ISO 100 f22 @250th (fastest flash sync speed of most cameras). You need a strobe strong enough to expose at a f16, minimum, for a nice 1:2 fill. Check your manual and see at what distance your strobe can do that. I'm betting its 5' or less. Throw a softbox on it and that sucks up another half stop. This is when you break out the generator and a powerful strobe. This is why most photographers opt for a reflector instead of strobe fill in direct sun. Either that or they float a large silk over the subject to knock down the ambient.
You don’t know what you are talking about
Another really explanatory tutorial Gavin. Thanks
I love this incredibly informative, fun, and easy-to-follow Gavin Hoey videos. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Try this again on a sunny day around mid-day April-August. That's where you'll really need the monolight
Yep, as mentioned light played a part but that's what I had on the day.
Another thing to consider is the shutter speed needed for freezing high speed action. If you have to shoot a soccer player in the middle of a sunny day and she is leaping into the air the speedlight won't have the horsepower to overpower the ambient light and freeze the action. Yes, you can gang your speedlights to get a decent result, but that's a pretty tedious and time consuming setup and take down. Life is easier, and my photos are better, since I switched from my beloved speedlights to monolights.
1 number photographer aahes tu gavin...........
I really thought the speedlight would have more trouble with the second test than with the third. That is surprising. What I like to do (I shoot speedlights only) is combine two or more speedlights. They each require less power, which means they're faster and more durable. It's easy to find speedlight bracket to accomodate up to 4 of them. It does not work for everything, of course, but it works for about 80% of the time, which is good enough for me.
I always come here for expert advise and quick tip lessons. I authorize a pay raise for Gav'. Good on 'ya Guv. Thanks
Thx for sharing!!! Great video! Greetings from Switzerland
Thanks very great video.. But not sure about the difference with those Led panel continuous light running on battery vs those speedlight... ?
Love this video and the explanation of the 3 examples. Can't wait to watch all of Gavins videos
First on location!! Go Adorama!!
Excellent as always Gavin. Thank you very much for these comparison tests.
Gavin always has an informative video. I was a little surprised at the speed light going belly up that fast. I use them with HSS all the time and have never run into that problem. I think he was probably shooting faster than I normally do.
Yeah me too. Mind you, not sure at what power. I've never had one overheat though after shooting HSS for a fair amount of time
I get hundreds of shots, granted not at full power but they are largely in HSS
@@evocati6523 ok thats nice to hear, cause I just bought a speedlight for hss and didnt feel like buying a monolight now
You are amazing Gavin. Love your videos, including videos made 11 years ago.
Great video Gavin, very informative, also lovely to see both Charlotte and yourself earlier today
Thanks Adam, it was a great day.
Thank You, it will be easygoing trying to buy what will work for my outdoor Photography Class!
Thank you!
Super mentor Gavin 👍
Thank you Mr Hoey for this very helpful video sir. I love the creative outcome from a monolight, but for now my wife and I are using Yongnuo YN560 IV's. Of course they're not HSS but they do extremely well. I cant afford a HSS strobe light at the moment but I have been wandering if I could produce images with my speedlites similar to those of a monolight. I am still learning speedlites, so this video along with many of your other videos has been very helpful. Thank you once again for your awesome videos, you have become my mentor, I love your creative work.
If you have chosen that flash, are you shooting with Fuji? It runs well on manual and if you don't have a flashmeter you can use the histogram.
Thanks for the kind words Jojo. You have to make the best of what you have and the speedlight surpassed my exceptions but... the flexibility of a location monolight is hard to beat.
What's your light stand? I like it!
Two questions:
What are you using to power the monolight on location?
What is the wagon called to carry your equipment?
Great, understandable (even by me) video Gavin. I appreciate you using a flash meter that ordinary joes and jills might use. But I notice you using an Olympus EM5MK3, which makes me wonder how you swung that one because the common folk are still waiting for availability......
A few people have one to play with and promote...
Tony Green he is an Olympus visionary so he most likely got an sample unit :-)
So 1/2 power on a 600w monlight gives the same reading as 1/1 power on a speedlight and 1/4 power in HSS from a monolight is about equal to 1/2 power in HSS from a speedlight. Therefore the speedlight is one stop less powerfull than the monolight at about 300w.
Great test!!! I’m always concern if the light modifier size matters, I meant for the amount of outcome light. I have seen that the bigger modifier, the softest light.... so I own a Godox V860 speedlight, but I’m not sure if a 43” modifier will be too big, and I’ll run out of light for full body shoots? What is your advice? Thanks
I do not (yet) own a monolight, instead am using Flashpoint 685's with a 960 battery. I'm wondering if that will temporarily solve the recycle time issue when using high speed sync with the speed light (until the more powerful flash is purchased)? Seems like some practice and testing is in order. Very useful video, Mr. Hoey! Thanks.
Great video with surprising results. As far as the speedlight stopping, is that maybe just the battery overheating? Could you swap out another battery and keep shooting theoretically?
It takes a toll on the whole unit.
Great challenge! I was surprised as well. I have that same setup, so it good to know... if in a weight or size pinch, I could leave the Monolight at the studio.
On that day, in that light I could ALMOST leave the monolight behind but... I probably wouldn't.
Great video. Thank you
Gavin makes it look easy. Love it!
One cuestion. How you meter the flash wihthout flashmeter been afected by the ambient light,? I mean, isolate the flash light measure from the ambient light measure?
Thank you for making this video. Sure, speedlights has a plenty of limitations but it can do a lot more than what most you tube photographers will care to tell us.
I love your videos Gavin. Great job as usual!
Great work ..
The only thing I didn't hear mentioned was...What meter mode he used. Spot. Center, Evaluate...It makes a difference
I highly recommend the speed light, just add an external battery pack with rechargeable batteries. Less weight to carry and move around in locations.
Gavin’s a GREAT presenter!!!!!
I feel stupid for not knowing remotely triggered lights were a thing! That is awesome! I do love the portability of the flash gun softbox setups but that is still very very cool
Great video tutorial on comparing of strobe to a speed light on location. if you’re shooting less than 20 shots in a session, then speed light is fine. Otherwise, if you’re shooting more than 20 shots in a session, a strobe light is better. This is especially true at high-speed sync mode.
What if you have multiple speed lights?
Great test.
Great vid as always Gavin! How much diffusion was on that softbox? 1 or 2 layers?
Hi Lyndon. For location work I generally (as in this case) keep my softboxes as single layer only.
Great tutorial Gavin. Thank you.
Awesome topic & presentation! Thanks
So, that being said, can a speedlight handle bigger softboxes than the 38 inch one showed in the video or do we need a bulb-head + more power in order to fill the larger area?
Hi David. A speedlight can handle any size of light modifier. The difference is the amount of light it produces and what is "enough" light for you. Bare bulbs tend to give more even coverage in a light modifier but again, your preference for that my vary.
@@GavinHoey Thank you so much! Your videos have tought me a lot in the last 4 years. You're the best teacher.
Thank you for sharing! Where did you get that black backdrop?
Love your videos , very clear explanation! Thanks!
I thought your speedlights results walked it whith Charlotte , nice one
Fantastic as Usual Gavin and really useful information. Keep up all the excellent work
For this shoot, were you using the internal diffusion layer inside of the ParaPop?
I took it out for this shoot.
@@GavinHoey I see. Certainly understandable as it would lower power output of the flashes, specially that little speedlight. Thank you for your answer. That puts things into perspective of what the speedlight can accomplish.
Thanks again for a great video! I just recently got a TT685 for my Fuji camera and while I can't afford a huge softbox yet, I'll experiment with one of those 20x30cm ones that velcro onto the speedlight. Now, just need to find the courage to find a model for me... hmm.
Grid+Reflector+Monolight video please
Thanks Gavin! Good tutorial!
Simply wonderful! Thank you!!!
With photometer in hand and a flash it is very easy to make beautiful images.
How is he getting around the sync speed of the camera with the dark lines over 1/400 shutter speed
Great video, as always. I noticed you are using the EM5III, and the pictures look great. I'm really thinking about switching out my Canon 7DII and 24-70 USMII lens which feels like it weighs 200 pounds after lugging it along all day, to the EM5III. I know you switched from Canon and never looked back.
Ed Blazejewski know the feeling. Switched from nikon d800 to m1-3, it's 1kilogram lighter :-)
Yep Ed, Olympus works for me 👍
No.1 photography. 👌
Thanks for the great info! I hope your model survived her ordeal of having to stand there and pose lol.
Hi gavin mind if i ask regarding the monolight are you using barebulb? or flashhead/fresnel?
Great video Gavin!
Amazing result, thanks!
Great video! For many hobbiests this is a great money saver.
For the second shot, I prefer the speedlight shot as well, but in all fairness, at f11 you're getting twice as much ambient light versus f16.
Thanks, Gavin!
Another great video! Thank you!!!
The flash stopped working with the HSS after, you mentioned, 18 shots (in your case). Was this really due to the flash overheating OR the batteries just ran out?