The SECRET To Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- There’s something pros know about exposure that means they come home from every photo shoot with perfect images, and beginners always ignore it.
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So in this video I’m going to show you a simple method pros use to easily capture perfectly exposed images, without ever having to worry about all the complicated stuff, like calculating stops, ambient light or metering so you never have to worry about missing the shot again.
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Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
@SteveArnoldPhoto does it work in photoshop elements?
This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is
Hey mate, thanks for your comment! Great to hear this one helped!
My thoughts exactly mate 🤣
I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks.
I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode.
Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.
Im a beginner, and find using manual very fiddly when you want to take pictures quickly. The method I use most is Av mode (unless subject is moving and then I swap to Tv mode), exposure lock onto the thing that gives me the look I want, then focus on subject, then re-frame the scene. This requires three movements to set up, but actually works quite quickly for me. Is this what many people use? Am I doing it wrong? Portraits/Street photography mainly
High ISO actually doesn't cause noise in your image. It just shows the noise that was already there due to a lack of light.
yeah thats a good point. I guess I could have worded it more accurately as "high iso leads to more visible noise" even though it doesnt directly cause it.
cheers
Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.
Same with me. I like the FV Mode on the R Models. I have an R7.
I’m an old timer, 40 yrs ago everything I owned was manual, including focus, so ever camera no matter how up to date high tech , gets the same treatment, 50/50 with the focus , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
When I discovered bracketing, I was amazed at how I was able to get all the best lighting and shadows on everything!! So fun 😃
In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this ….
a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec)
b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4.
c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction.
So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks.
I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.
@@iancraig Awesome as, thanks heaps for this ❤️
This could be used on a multiple focal lengths mobile phone cameras too ☺️
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.
Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!
Been out today and followed your workflow for manual. Big breakthrough big breakthrough. Thanks
That's awesome to hear, thanks!
This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.
And to your point, here is another approach to the "manual with . . . " way of thinking. It uses the ISO. When talking about ISO noise, the two videos are a tad contradictory. I'm not saying either is right or wrong. It's up to the individual photographer to decide which method works best for his style/genre of photography: czcams.com/video/oAEV1HyS8Bg/video.html
Great video I’m a beginner and I’ve always found it difficult to get the right exposure your explanation has made sense
Great video Steve!
I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.
A good old trick as well: shooting manual with auto ISO, but to avoid too high values you can cap it to a certain amount in your camera settings. This allows for more creative control over aperture and shutter speed when needed which are the two settings really affecting your art direction in a photo. Ideally though full manual and a tripod is the way to go 👍
I've always struggled with getting exposer correct in the camera, (usually fixed in Lightroom) so will definitely try your method next time I'm out.
I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.
Thats great to hear, thank you!
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
I think his advice is primarily meant for the average amateur photographer, but what you said is still good to know.
@@point73. Yes, his method bracketing exposure does not work EVERY TIME, only it applications where the subject is not moving.
@@RetrieverTrainingAloneAlso depends if you're using a tripod or not. While I do do landscapes, I use a monopod for ease of transport. Bracketing is then not possible.
Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.
Great tips, Good advice, but in the end you're left doing what works for you in the moment. In my experience getting "Great shots" in full manual mode takes proficiency and skill, and that just takes time to gain, no problem, just shoot as often as you can where ever and when ever. But I personal know "Pros" also utilize those semiautomatic modes to great benefit as well. Me included, when time and urgency are a factor, like at an event.
Thanks for this helpful, informative, and educational video. It is daunting when you see all these buttons and dials on a camera, and as beginners want to learn and start somewhere, and of course get away from the automatic modes, too, so we can create our own work.
Much thanks :-)
Could you please explain to me why you said at the beginning that working in M mode with auto ISO + exposure compensation is wrong (from 0:39) and then in 2:10 you do exactly that way? It does not make any sense. Why can't I have auto ISO and then do the exposure compensation?
I just use the histogram.
I have taken better photos in manual using the +/- scale and the best shots have the histogram way over to the left which of course needs shadow adjustment of the raw file but if you blow the highlights they are are a lot more difficult to fix so I expose for the highlights with the expose scale histogram just goes for the mid tones
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences using both ways 😊❤
Classic.
Thanks, reinforced some existing knowledge. Have you produced a video for sport/rugby photos
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for taking the time and uploading it.
Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots",
if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority.
Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel.
Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.
Of course every possible photography question has a "it depends" answer to some degree. I think my video covers most bases, especially in the context of landscape photography.
best video to learn about this stuff so far! thanks man!
Nobody comes home with perfect photos every time
Agree to disagree - but only a little bit. I think you can use each kind of automatic as long as you stay Chief in Command. But that means that you have to be familar with all the manual stuff you're talking about. For me it's easy but I took my first steps with the old analog Zeiss Icon from my Dad. No automatic available with "only" a fixed focal length. Gread cam I'm still in love with.
Cheers so much, this is easy... Also thank you so much for all your generosity too 😊❤
You're welcome, thanks for letting me know it works for you!
@SteveArnoldPhoto you're welcome anytime ☺️
I don't have a camera yet, but will save this video, just in case I end up, getting one ❤️
You should do a video on adjustment setting when doing video. Great information for photos, but in videos you cant adjust the Shutter too much as it will blur too much of your background. Great video!!
I APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO! Thanks for taking us back to Exposure basics...thank you!
Excellent video. Really useful.
An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.
When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold
Did I miss it? All this talk about "Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME", and not a single reference to the camera's histogram?
Thanks. Very helpful
Sometimes having a dynamic range that is greater than the camera can handle can be an advantage. The fact that in a portrait of Orson Wells in the movie ‘The Third Man’ you can’t see his ears is irrelevant because is is the highlighted eyes and mouth that you what the viewers attention to be drawn to. You learn where you want the perfect exposure to be within the composition.
I like that perspective :) thanks!
Thanks. Very informative. I do appreciate that you did not ask to subscribe & like. This is really a very professional way.
Thank you very much!
In the Old film days , I used to take a reading off the road , or grass at football matches to get a fairly accurate exposure
Good video, easy to understand !
Nice video... nice edit and explanation
It was very informative video Thank you
M mode with auto ISO is the best for me. I go in an out of rooms that are dark and light, then outside, then back inside and have to act fast. I think my R3 is smart enough to meter for me and I can tweak with EV. Yes, is a controlled environment I still use full M, but that's not the norm fo rme.
When talking about exposure can u take the photo then put the photo into an editing software to adjust the exposure?
You can do that within reason, but too much will lose image quality.
the goal is to get it as close to perfect as possible in camera so you don't have to change exposure too much in editing.
Yes. I've use the same method.
Does this apply to studio photography also?
Great tip! That’s exactly my approach
Great video where here, both full manual and bracketing are required or strongly advised . But for everyday use, full manual all the time ? I don't know... And nailing exposure ? That's also why AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) exists. That simple. You can't always let the camera average for the scene, or the scene being averaged with what you focus on, when there is too much dynamic range discrepancy in the scene.
Usually outdoor you can AEL the sky and lift the shadows in post for the rest. There is no other way when your scene has both bright lit and much darker areas than using AEL to avoid blown highlights, or bracket, or under/over expose manually (but most cameras/DSLRs don't allow it in full manual mode, since you force in everything manually, there cannot be any automatic correction - unless if in auto iso, but yet, often camera don't allow exposure compensation function when in full manual, disregarding).
You can also AEL on a midrange between the brightest and darkest area. Here, have to play a bit to get good at guessing where to AEL. Check your histogram on replay to be sure, . Or do exp. bracketing, but it's a little more demanding in post.
Again, many cameras don't allow playing with exposure compensation when in full manual mode. Some do, rare, and some will keep the under/over exposure setting set prior when transiting to manual mode, but again many don't. Under or over expose for getting the right exposure works too though, and I also use it, but more as a known setting for some kind of scene (bird in flight against sky, etc), and on most of my camera brands, I like to be at -1/3rd at all times otherwise. For nailing the exposure I often tend to use more the AEL function than constantly playing with changing my manual exposure setting. Both are super useful features though.
A note toward the beginners that could make a few mistakes thinking they absolutely need to use the full manual mode all the time. Most of the time, you don't need it. It's good to have for tripod landscapes, milky ways and some other stuff, sure, but having to change the settings all the time for each picture is a pain and in reality, when not on tripod, many photographers in everyday use will tend to use aperture or speed (shutter) priority most of the time according to the scene and its needs, and will even often ease themselves further, using auto Iso along. Also, using these 2 modes will bring you back the benefit of being able to use manual exposure compensation if you don't like using AEL, and don't forget than often neither or nor is needed, for often the camera does a good job with its evaluative metering..
Using AEL in manual mode may sometime result (IE: Sony) in getting a P mode equivalent, where to keep the exposure locked, changing aperture or speed will trigger the automatic change of the other to keep the AEL, or as with Canon, will show 2 cursors on the exposure ruler to show you how far you go from the set AEL when changing aperture/speed.
And finally, if you're a beginner just discovering all these manual modes or full manual, still get your favorite scenes in auto mode on the side, at least once per favorite scene, and for two reasons. If you mess up in your first attempts in manual modes, your auto shot may have saved the day, and it will also allow you to see how well the camera works in auto mode with its metering and other stuff like the speed, aperture and Iso it chosen to use compared to what you came with with your purposed manual mode settings...
•Shoot -1, on Camera meter.
•LCD / EVF liveview
•Histogram
•Take a 'test shot', review it, adjust
Thank you!
Steve, have you tried to develop a similar technique for LRC, since it also has luminosity masking capabilities? Thanks so much for the helpful video.
Hi Barry, thanks for your question.
LRC has introduced a lot of great tools recently including the masking stuff, but it's still not on the same level as Photoshop. The best example I can give quickly is the case of manually blending multiple exposures, which isnt doable in LR because you can't put two images in separate layers of the same LR document and mask them into each other.
Cheers!
@@SteveArnoldPhoto Got it. Thanks so much for responding.
A fotometria teoricamente terá que ser feita nas altas luzes, e também depende se estamos em matricial. ponderada, ou pontual
How about just learning to use AEL for most ?..
Good Information....But one thing you didn't mentioned about metering mode...its the main fact that affect exposure...
Iso dont make a noise ,you can take a picture on highest iso witout noice !
I can cheat I have a live Histogram in my viewfinder it helps a lot also live view finder so I can see the exposure before I take the shot, I shoot ap priority most of the time as I know the DOF I want for the photo then keep an eye on the shutter speed if as I hand hold 99% of the time and some macro shots need fast shutter hand held LOL so turn up the iso until Im happy with the speed that will give me the sharp image. eg F16 on a 100mm macro to try and get the complete object in focus ISO 2000 to give a nice shutter speed of 1/500 or more. the F16 is more at risk of effecting the image quality than the ISO with the R5 the AF 100m f2.8 macro isnt that good at f16 the RF100 F2.8 macro is a lot better but the sharpest is F4 - f8 ok at F2.8.
I think the only time I've used manual was a moon shot also a tripod the hardest was focus the manual focus didnt like it so had to zoom in and use my eyes LOL 2sec delay on the shutter F22 using a 2x adaptor wasnt he best on the RF100-500 ISO at 100 shutter I think was 1/25. the next time I'll try F16 or I think the lowest was F11 with the 2x.
But I will for sure going to do more Manual exp lie you said It gives you full control and a great idea with the Bracketing saves using that and you can have 4 shots and not only 3
My camera has no light meter in manual mode with non dedicated lenses so I just guess and then adjust as needed
If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.
You only need to use the cameras meter for the first test shot, then one or two adjustments by eye from there and you're set. no chimping required
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
Can u share settings for gopro 12 ? İ need settings for day and night. Please can u share
sorry, i wouldn't have any idea about go pro settings.
So auto exposure lock should be off ?
I am not super advaned, but exposure is my #1 priority when I capture image/video's
2:35 I am using a Sony A6400 and I don't see the indicator, is there a way to turn it on or does my camera not have an indicator?
Up on dial wheel
I use manual with auto ISO, then if i dont like it, with one touch on the wheel i manually adjust the ISO. My prefered way ig
05:25: doesn't bracketing do this automatically for us ?
I have a weeding soon, my first weeding for free . With Flash, what should I do
hey, I think if you're shooting a wedding soon and need help, you should probably search youtube for some specific wedding photography videos and maybe ask those guys - they have better advice than I can give for that type of photography.
2:14 shutter 1s, f16, ISO100. Not changing the aperture and ISO, shouldn't the shutter speed be slower to allow more light in? Am I dumb or do I need to go relearn my basics?? I tested this setting on my camera, the image gets darker when i increase the shutter speed. Am I misunderstanding this video? English is not my first language.
Thanks
Isnt F8 and up going to make it too dark? Forcing me to use a shutter 1/60 or slower
Well, his approach is oriented tripod landscape. so, shutter speed (and the need of an eventual faster one) will only be a concern if you have moving elements in your landscape, as wind in trees or leaves that could create blur if to slow, moving water, although here, lower shutter speed can be desired for a water blur effect.
Also, one forgets that some landscape pictures like a background or foreground blur sometimes, depending on the scene and wished effect, so f/8 and up is not always an absolute constant, but is when your goal is best planar depth of field sharpness (front to back).
Last, diffraction can kick in with too small apertures, usually f/16 and up and lower with Aps-c over F.Frame.
how to blend photos using dark table
Simple n good..🎉
how to use editing for those that do not have photoshop/lightroom
plugin did not arrive
Aperture controls depth of field
Shutter speed controls blur
ISO controls brightness
Simply use as required to get your desired look.
p.s. there is no right or wrong exposure it's all artistic choice
p.p.s. there are no rules in photography
P.p.p.s you're wrong. Both aperture and shutter speed also affect the brightness/exposure of your picture.
Altering brightness is only a secondary effect of adjusting aperture and shutter speed.
Adjusting brightness is the only thing ISO does.
@@grahamniven I know that. But you made it sound as though aperture and shutter speed only affect one thing.
@@Koensol no, you simply chose to interpret it in a specific way.
There's a lot more to learn than "correct" exposure.
First thing to learn, exposure is an artistic choice.
@@grahamniven You literally list 3 things, and say "use as required". Yes, everything is an interpretation, but idk why you would list these things on a video about exposure. Why would you point out shutter speed controls motion blur in a video that is about exposure, which shutter speed also affects, and then say to use as required? Maybe I'm missing something here, but its kinda confusing.
🙌🏼
well done
Naw. You’re telling me to worry about 3 settings for every shot. What exposure compensation will get it close enough. The rest can be fixed I post processing.
you do you, mate
Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.
Have you tried the method i demonstrate in this video? It should work regardless of location, although I guess it depends what you mean exactly by terrible lighting.
@@SteveArnoldPhoto dark living room with low light but I'm going to try your method, although it's super scary trying to adjust things worried I'll mess something up.
@@lucy_76just practice. That’s what I did. Constantly. It’s only a photo, no one will die. Enjoy it ❤
@@lucy_76 if youre in low light, start with smaller f number than I suggested (f4 or f2.8 if your lens allows). And start with a higher ISO than I suggested - maybe 800.
Then see what shutter speed you need to use to make the right brightness. Depending HOW dark the room is, it may be ok, otherwise your shots may be blurry because of the shutter speed. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you get on
@@SteveArnoldPhoto thank you, I'm going to try that
For noobies its important to understand that the exposure meter is only a guide and is not a solid rule. It is designed for capturing average content scenes, with average lighting so that the mix of all the light collected forms 18% grey. Fine for those average conditions. However, step outside of those averagely lit conditions and that 18% grey calculation will turn your image too bright or too dark.
Worse, to understand metering, newbies will also need to understand the different metering modes of their camera, and make sure they're in the right one (usually evaluative by default, being the most commonly used, the one you describe).
@@alanalain4884 True. For beginners those are all confusing and worth spending time researching. 👍
Great tip with the Exposure Compensation. But how can you look exactly like Eminem?
Say it to a portrait photographer during a shooting with natural light xD
this is for landscape photographers
Ok and what about HDR?
That is exactly what HDR does.
It takes three pictures with different brightness and put them together for better contrast.
That's not exactly what HDR does...
Doesn't have to be 3, could 5, 10, whatever...
They said apertures last to change??
He's never heard of mirrorless
who?
All of these are VERY BASIC concepts and practices for someone who has REALLY STUDIED PHOTOGRAPHY in schools or good books. Unfortunately, people seem to be too lazy to learn, explore and practice.
So I guess you won't be watching any more then. Bye
By the time you go manual, many shots will be gone!
You are using the same light meter that the camera's auto modes use, The "Full Manual" myth is funny. I know, because it was the only method in existence when I took up photography.
yeah thats why I said use it to get close, then manually adjust from there. much easier than figuring it out without the meter, and manual adjustment after means you're not blindly relying on it.
Use the live screen duhhh
This only applies to taking pics of landscapes on a tripod
my partner uses the same method for pet photography, but yeah this video is clearly in the landscape context
@@SteveArnoldPhoto For pet photography I wouldn't have the camera decide the shutter speed ...
@@wanneske1969 Im not saying to let the camera decide the shutter speed. The video is about using full manual mode and making all the decisions yourself.
@@wanneske1969 Unless the pet is a turtle...
Or I can use DR 400% and not worry about it.
Never film in portrait mode unless you film for TikTok or #Shorts. Even in that case it is not necessary. 😊
Unnecessary annoying noises
Unnecessary annoying comments
Comment 🤡 reply 💀
When photographing static subjects under consistent lighting conditions, using the full manual setting on your camera can be incredibly advantageous. It allows for precise control over exposure, aperture, and shutter speed, ensuring that you can achieve the exact look and feel you desire in your photos.
However, as a bird photographer, the situation changes dramatically. Birds are dynamic subjects, often moving unpredictably and rapidly. Additionally, the lighting conditions can vary quickly and significantly. In such scenarios, relying on fully manual settings makes it impossible to obtain correct exposure. To capture these fleeting moments, I depend on my camera's automatic modes (Auto-ISO), which can adapt to changes in lighting and movement faster than humanly possible, ensuring well-exposed images.
Oh yes. I'm a pro and I always come home with perfect images. THOUSANDS of them, easy. Laughable! 🤣🤣🤣
Unnecessary annoying music.
everyone will be a pro with ai
Obviously good advice but nothing special at all. This is common knowledge even for entry level photographers. I expected more from this channel..
I guess I can't do much about your own expectations.
Thanks anyway :)
@@SteveArnoldPhotodon’t listen to him. I’m new and got my first cam last week and I needed this. Spent $500 and I’m so lost and feel hopeless
Thanks mate, I appreciate it. Keep your head up - you're not alone! One of the biggest problems when you're starting out is having so much information available (eg on CZcams) it can be overwhelming. If you haven't already, feel free to sign up to my mailing list by downloading my free photoshop plugin (link is in my CZcams channel main page) - then reply to any of the emails you get and I'll be glad to help point you in the right direction
Cheers
Nothing like a photography snob. Entry level photographers don't use manual mode and as one find videos like this helpful.
@@elderton he took six minutes to explain the exposure triangle, a basic fundamental. His channel has been established and he made a video about something so basic. 🤡
People who don't know these basic camera sitting just bought the camera to talk about it an have no interest in being a 'pro' photographer 😊