Ok. I just replaced my strings on an older Rumbler WITHOUT the kick plate on the back. Once I figured things out, it went like butter: You're gonna use a needle and thread. You run the needle/thread down through the bridge and dangle it down using the weight of the metal needle until you can grab it easily through the sound hole. Pull enough through to work with, but not too much that it comes out of the bridge! Then you're gonna "nick" a little bit of the string -- push the needle in through the circular face at an angle so you're just going through a tiny bit of the string edge: this stuff it tough, it won't rip. Push the needle ALL THE WAY THROUGH. The "trick" is that there is very little tolerance/wiggle room between the size of the hole and the size of the string, so adding material that fattens up the string makes it a lot harder. Pushing the needle all the way through allows the string plenty of room to slide through the bridge. Gently pull the thread while pushing the string. I spent about an hour trying combo of super-glue to old string, electrical tape to old string, electrical tape to a copper wire -- they all added too much girth so pulling through the hole was too hard. Once you're through, just pull the needle/thread combo all the way through and onto the next string!
I prefer using D'addario Nyltech U Bass Strings because they're Color Coded which helps alot. They should add on a Low B & High C for the extended Range 5 & 6 String Bass Ukuleles. I decided to use Taylor GS Mini Strings on my UBass which are Nylon wound in Phosphor Bronze. They have Ball Ends which make restringing a snap
They forgot a very important step at the bridge but the headstock end had some good tips. I want to believe they will figure out the strings need 2 attachments each.
Nice but only showing half the process. Would be so helpful if you show how the strings go into the bridge that doesn't have door on the back to work with restringing.
Kala, please update your videos to show installation of not only Pahoehoe strings, but all the other aftermarket offerings. This video is eight years old, and does not take into account the wide assortment of strings now offered, including some with and without terminal ends.
I just put ThunderBrowns on my Kala Passenger. My tip? Don't cut the ends until after your strings are settled. I ended up re-winding two of mine, because they stretched so much that they were wrapping back on themselves on the post. Easy fix when I hadn't cut the ends yet. :)
Is it normal to have a ton of winds on the D and G? I pulled very hard while i did the knot, but even with the knot and a few winds when i let go of the loose end, the whole string slackened. I ended up winding forever to get the G in tune. Is this normal?
I put Gallistrings Flatwounds on to reduce string noise when amped. Unfortunately, the needle/thread trick did not work for me, I could not get the needle secure. Instead, I put an inspection light (critical) in the body to light the area under the bridge, and then straightened out the end opposite the ball and put in a half-inch right angle bend. (long enough to reach up through the hole) I then snaked that end inside the soundhole towards the bridge until I could see it through the hole. Once there, I used my pointing finger to apply pressure raising the right-angled end up through the hole where I grabbed it with my needle-nosed pliers. I started on the G string (since that was the smallest) but once I got it done and knew the procedure, it didn't take too much fiddling to complete the rest. The only thing that gave me problems was the wiring for the pickup. I had to press it over to the bass side and down toward the back to get it out of the way. I hope this helps someone else.
Question: Does the knot on the G and D strings make it difficult to tighten the strings later if I get too many rounds/turns? (Kala manual recommends only two rounds/turns and if there are more the strings should be reset at the posts.
Should we lubricate the strings with some string care oil or something. When they are dry sometimes it's tough to slide.. but I don't want to wreck the strings. Is there something you recommend?
i Assume these are the Pahoehoe strings. the only black strings sold in the market. can you specify which strings are needed or suit for KALA Ubass? because Pahoehoe strings comes with either:Medium tension Standard set strings OR Low tension set strings. which one comes on your stock acoustic ubasses?
My A-string on the U-Bass is causing some Buzz in the body when I pluck. This issue started during my most recent tuning. Now in whichever position I set the Tuning pegs, the Tuner shows Green for the A-string. I suspect some issue with the tuning peg, because I felt a slip in the tuning peg after which this issue surfaced. What do I do?
I got a set of silver rumblers and the g string "knot" just refused to hold. After 5 attempts I just decided to tie a real knot to hold the string on the tuner
Can I swap kind of strings on a Kala Bass? I mean: i bought it with roundwound strings on. Can I swap them to the "elastic/rubber" ones if I want? Or each Kala bass model has differences to accomodate for different kinds of strings?
I own two solid body ubasses. Talking with the folks at Kala, they don't recommend any metal strings, citing too much neck tension and very poor intonation of the upper frets. In other words, save your money and boy the cheap black Pahoehoe strings for best intonation and performance.
Mine that came factroy out of the box, had 4 winds at G string. and after tuning it to G it had around 6-7 winds...So im prolly gonna rewind myself. I already tried at the D string (4 winds out of box 6 winds after tuning it to D) now I got 4 winds but keeps slipping out of tune. :( E&A are ok, but 1 wind to much. But its okay. So I think i have to purchase a new set of strings and do it myself. Kinda sucks though :(
what excess string? I just got new pahoehoe strings and they have a absolutely no slack. and they are too big to fit in the tuning pegs or the machine heads. what the hell.
These videos need to take into account the lack of adjustment for intonation of the ubass. There is a small bridge adjustment you can make, but the bridge side of the ubass is never addressed in any of the videos.
+Jeff Decker I'm guessing you've never actually seen a U-bass. They don't tie off round the bridge with a knot on the surface, they go straight over the bridge and disappear into holes in the body, no bridge pins or anything. I've never seen a uke like that.
The only way I could do it was by loosening all the strings so I could put my hand through the sound hole, pull them out through there. Then finding the right holes by feel with the new strings was quite slow.
@@dingoswamphead I did eventually figure it out. You push the string through the bridge hole, grab the end through the sound hole, pull it out through the hole enough that you can tie a knot near the end, then pull it back until the knot grips the underside of the bridge, then you can attach the other end to the tuning peg and start tuning
We're trying to decide whether to toss ours in the fire-pit or use it for target practice. One way or another we are ridding the world of this evil beast.
Just received a Scout fretless. Really excited about this instrument.
Ok. I just replaced my strings on an older Rumbler WITHOUT the kick plate on the back. Once I figured things out, it went like butter: You're gonna use a needle and thread. You run the needle/thread down through the bridge and dangle it down using the weight of the metal needle until you can grab it easily through the sound hole. Pull enough through to work with, but not too much that it comes out of the bridge! Then you're gonna "nick" a little bit of the string -- push the needle in through the circular face at an angle so you're just going through a tiny bit of the string edge: this stuff it tough, it won't rip. Push the needle ALL THE WAY THROUGH. The "trick" is that there is very little tolerance/wiggle room between the size of the hole and the size of the string, so adding material that fattens up the string makes it a lot harder. Pushing the needle all the way through allows the string plenty of room to slide through the bridge. Gently pull the thread while pushing the string. I spent about an hour trying combo of super-glue to old string, electrical tape to old string, electrical tape to a copper wire -- they all added too much girth so pulling through the hole was too hard. Once you're through, just pull the needle/thread combo all the way through and onto the next string!
lol I just realized this about mine and long story short it's up for sale lmao just no.
Me too, what a stupid design.
I thought the intro would never end
Me too
Loudest into ever. But the knots on d and g were super helpful.
Like the switchfoot tune in the intro!
I prefer using D'addario Nyltech U Bass Strings because they're Color Coded which helps alot. They should add on a Low B & High C for the extended Range 5 & 6 String Bass Ukuleles. I decided to use Taylor GS Mini Strings on my UBass which are Nylon wound in Phosphor Bronze. They have Ball Ends which make restringing a snap
I don't understand why there's only footage of the neck and not the bridge end of the procedure? Surely that's part of the stringing process?
Yes , I know how to do the neck but not the end
They forgot a very important step at the bridge but the headstock end had some good tips. I want to believe they will figure out the strings need 2 attachments each.
Why does nobody ever show how to put it in the bridge??
Enjoying James's uke version of Little Wing. Thanks for the useful tips.
Nice but only showing half the process. Would be so helpful if you show how the strings go into the bridge that doesn't have door on the back to work with restringing.
See my comment -- needle & thread is all you need, and you'll be done in about 15 minutes.
Kala, please update your videos to show installation of not only Pahoehoe strings, but all the other aftermarket offerings. This video is eight years old, and does not take into account the wide assortment of strings now offered, including some with and without terminal ends.
Little wing
Can you please remake this video
Great info......but the intro is a bit too much!
Very helpfull
these strings look alot longer than the ones i got.
I just put ThunderBrowns on my Kala Passenger. My tip? Don't cut the ends until after your strings are settled. I ended up re-winding two of mine, because they stretched so much that they were wrapping back on themselves on the post. Easy fix when I hadn't cut the ends yet. :)
i just ordered some Thunder Browns. Did you also string the E & A with the knot?
click 0:34 to skip intro
Thank you! Super annoying intro.
The real MVP
Is it normal to have a ton of winds on the D and G? I pulled very hard while i did the knot, but even with the knot and a few winds when i let go of the loose end, the whole string slackened. I ended up winding forever to get the G in tune. Is this normal?
Can you do a video how to fit the strings in the bridge on the U-Bass Rumbler (the one without the opening on the back)? I am totally at loss.
See my comment above -- needle & thread is all you need, and you'll be done in about 15 minutes.
I put Gallistrings Flatwounds on to reduce string noise when amped. Unfortunately, the needle/thread trick did not work for me, I could not get the needle secure. Instead, I put an inspection light (critical) in the body to light the area under the bridge, and then straightened out the end opposite the ball and put in a half-inch right angle bend. (long enough to reach up through the hole) I then snaked that end inside the soundhole towards the bridge until I could see it through the hole. Once there, I used my pointing finger to apply pressure raising the right-angled end up through the hole where I grabbed it with my needle-nosed pliers. I started on the G string (since that was the smallest) but once I got it done and knew the procedure, it didn't take too much fiddling to complete the rest. The only thing that gave me problems was the wiring for the pickup. I had to press it over to the bass side and down toward the back to get it out of the way. I hope this helps someone else.
Thanks Ryan. Appreciate your help.
....conseil opportun...just for me...thanks to u'
Question: Does the knot on the G and D strings make it difficult to tighten the strings later if I get too many rounds/turns? (Kala manual recommends only two rounds/turns and if there are more the strings should be reset at the posts.
Should we lubricate the strings with some string care oil or something. When they are dry sometimes it's tough to slide.. but I don't want to wreck the strings. Is there something you recommend?
How about showing the installation on the other end? Thanks for the good information.
See my comment -- needle & thread is all you need, and you'll be done in about 15 minutes (without the kick plate in back).
Awesome. Really helps. I laugh because your strings are longer and it makes it easier with more to cut off.
i Assume these are the Pahoehoe strings. the only black strings sold in the market. can you specify which strings are needed or suit for KALA Ubass? because Pahoehoe strings comes with either:Medium tension Standard set strings OR
Low tension set strings. which one comes on your stock acoustic ubasses?
My A-string on the U-Bass is causing some Buzz in the body when I pluck. This issue started during my most recent tuning. Now in whichever position I set the Tuning pegs, the Tuner shows Green for the A-string. I suspect some issue with the tuning peg, because I felt a slip in the tuning peg after which this issue surfaced. What do I do?
what strings are you using? i currently have the Aquila "Thundergut" strings, but want black ones like them.
Great Video thank you !!!!
I got a set of silver rumblers and the g string "knot" just refused to hold. After 5 attempts I just decided to tie a real knot to hold the string on the tuner
Can I swap kind of strings on a Kala Bass? I mean: i bought it with roundwound strings on. Can I swap them to the "elastic/rubber" ones if I want? Or each Kala bass model has differences to accomodate for different kinds of strings?
This is facinating. What length do those string stretch to pls?
I own two solid body ubasses. Talking with the folks at Kala, they don't recommend any metal strings, citing too much neck tension and very poor intonation of the upper frets. In other words, save your money and boy the cheap black Pahoehoe strings for best intonation and performance.
Mine that came factroy out of the box, had 4 winds at G string. and after tuning it to G it had around 6-7 winds...So im prolly gonna rewind myself.
I already tried at the D string (4 winds out of box 6 winds after tuning it to D) now I got 4 winds but keeps slipping out of tune. :(
E&A are ok, but 1 wind to much. But its okay.
So I think i have to purchase a new set of strings and do it myself. Kinda sucks though :(
what excess string? I just got new pahoehoe strings and they have a absolutely no slack. and they are too big to fit in the tuning pegs or the machine heads. what the hell.
These videos need to take into account the lack of adjustment for intonation of the ubass. There is a small bridge adjustment you can make, but the bridge side of the ubass is never addressed in any of the videos.
is this process the same for the round wound strings? Or would those be more similar to changing regular bass strings?
SO SATISFYING
I liked the intro
wow now i now ho to string a u bass
Do you need a knot/tie for the E & A strings? It seems weird to just put them straight in and tune from there.
They will stay in there. More friction on the larger strings.
can a ubass be tuned down to b???
How the fuck do you get them in the bridge end? I can't get my hand in the sound hole.
Mahalo nui loa!
How are the strings put into the bridge, do they just push in or something?
+PutItAway101 exact same way you string up a uke
+Jeff Decker I'm guessing you've never actually seen a U-bass. They don't tie off round the bridge with a knot on the surface, they go straight over the bridge and disappear into holes in the body, no bridge pins or anything. I've never seen a uke like that.
The bridge is designed by Satan himself. No wonder they didn’t show the bridge procedure. It’s actually impossible
The only way I could do it was by loosening all the strings so I could put my hand through the sound hole, pull them out through there. Then finding the right holes by feel with the new strings was quite slow.
@@dingoswamphead I did eventually figure it out. You push the string through the bridge hole, grab the end through the sound hole, pull it out through the hole enough that you can tie a knot near the end, then pull it back until the knot grips the underside of the bridge, then you can attach the other end to the tuning peg and start tuning
U forgot some. Other end.
Four strings, in a uke... and then a meteor hits, and they ran as fast as they could, from giant cat monsters.
switchfoot
I remember when Kala made quality ukuleles. Now they just pump these things out from China. Premium price for a cheap quality instrument SMH...
Dear Kala: 35 seconds of completely useless "intro"? Please eliminate from future vids. Otherwise, thanks for the instruction!
We're trying to decide whether to toss ours in the fire-pit or use it for target practice. One way or another we are ridding the world of this evil beast.
love mine.
Send it to me