Hi, thanks for the video. I have a 2017 CRV EX AWD with the 1.5 Turbo. I bought it late Sept 2017. I did the same extensive research you did for a car I wished to keep a long time, also didn't hear about any problems till a year after I bought it. I was initially pleased with myself for getting a great car which was perfect for me. Then, boy, I was pissed. The dealership is not forthcoming, I haven't been offered a fix or warranty extension, and Honda says to drive the car longer distances to burn off contaminants (so waste time and fuel and wear your tires out driving round the block). I haven't had any issues (yet), (apart from the engine takes a long time to warm up which is worrying) but being retired, my car has only done 3600 (thirty six hundred) miles in 18 months! I'm concerned about cold starts after the car has been sitting doing nothing for a while. To be brief (ok not brief), I did a lot of internet research on oil and filters. I recommend readers check out some CZcams vids on serious tests that have been done, instead of posting a 'gut' feeling about what is good or not. Just because Honda sells it does not mean it is good. Read the data! Honda's A01 blue filter was made by Filtech and was pretty well built inside, the A02 is now made by Honeywell who also make Fram (which when disassembled looks like cheapo crap). The A02 has filter media ends that look like flimsy cardboard, and when disassembled it looks cheap and crappy too (just like Fram). I saw a quote from a Fram engineer who admitted Fram is crap, with leaky filter media inside, but he said the company doesn't fix it. I used Fram on my last car religiously and the oil always had glitter in it. Why didn't I switch? Hell, I don't know, i must be batty. I'm shocked Honda sells these A02's as OEM filters. From the little research I've done, as others said earlier, WIX, K&N and some others are much better made internally. Not all filters or all oils are equal, not all synthetics are equal. I bought Mobil 1 full synthetic, which according to a test report I read is 'middle of the road', not the best or worst when it comes to wear resistance. It may be 'good enough' for a Honda road car that's not driven hard though. With filters, the internal filter media needs to be strongly sealed at its ends and to its end caps (inside the can). The by-pass valve needs to be designed and placed well in the can with preferably a coil spring, not a sheet metal spring. The filter media needs to trap 10-20 micron (and larger) size contaminants and then not clog. If it does, the bypass valve delivers dirty oil right back into the engine. Now think on this, you put a cheapo filter on, and put in a long lasting expensive synthetic oil so you can drive 15,000 miles between changes. The cheap filter may clog after a short time and you drive the remainder of the time with the filter not working at all! Thicker filter media (made from a single layer of some organic material with cardboard-like consistency), is better than thinner. Synthetic, or a sandwich of different filter media materials, will stop finer sized particles. Do you know what is in your filter? Just because your engine didn't seize up today doesn't mean you have the 'best' oil and filter. It may be 'good enough' though, but how do you tell? If you want to keep your car a long time, I'd recommend paying the extra for the better quality items. The anti drain-back valve in a better quality filter is made from silicon (orange color) which stays flexible for the life of the filter. You can see this through the holes in the base plate of the filter. The (black) rubber ones in the cheap filters distort from heat over time, become stiffer and stop sealing. The higher price for the better filters is because the internal materials and construction are better. You pay for what you get, low price equals cheapo inside. I strongly recommend you check test results before buying oil and filters, and change your oil at a reasonable mileage for the driving conditions. Fuel or moisture in oil, short trips, lots of cold starts, overly long warm ups when beginning driving, long idling, thicker oils in engines designed for thinner oils, should all be treated as 'severe' conditions, and the oil and filter changed earlier accordingly. Don''t believe in the 'one year' oil, or the '15,000 mile' oil, unless your engine is doing a lot of longish runs instead of short ones (30 minutes minimum), and reaches proper operating temperature to burn off contaminants such as condensation and fuel. Even then, I still don't believe in the 'one year oil' or the '20,000 mile' oil. My advice is don't take the risk with your engine!
With such low mileage you will find its actually cheaper keep no car. Use taxis or Uber for daily in city travel and rentals for longer road trips. You will find a car becomes cost effective if you're driving it a minimum of 600 miles/1000km per month. The car will age out long before its engine fails at small amount of driving you're doing.
your dealer must be skilled in "putting wheels on the covered wagons". The people i know (some have 2017 crv's) they were given EXTENDED WARRANTIES of up to 100,000 miles. Maybe it depends on when you purchase these crv's.
yea, THIS MECHANIC is TUNED. He is AWARE of this 1.5 L EARTHDREAMS ENGINE and CHANGES THE OIL with CARE AND REGARD to this engine. HONDA might HAVE FARED BETTER KEEPING THE 2.4 L.
Thanks ray for the info on HOW TO CHANGE THE OIL ON THE HONDA CRV. I CURRENTLY OWN A 2019 HONDA CRV-EX-L-AWD with about 5,000 miles on it and, i agree with your assesment with the OIL DILLUTION ISSUE. Im hearing that 2017-2018 HONDA CRVs (some of them have the oil dillution issue but, at least you know how to change your own oil. It is NOT TO SMART FOR HONDA TO PUT ANYTHING THATS NOT HONDA SPECIFIC UNDER THE CAR, BUT THEY CAN TELL YOU TO DRIVE FARTHER. I find the INFORMATION YOU HAVE JUST GIVEN VERY INFORMATIVE AND, YOU DO SAVE SOME MONEY. If i had the room i would change my own oil too but, i rent. Thanks for the heads up and the car SHOULD LAST ABOUT 10YEARS WITH CARE. TAKE CARE.
I LIKE THIS GUY. For a BACK YARD MECHANIC i thought this video was EXPERTLY EXPLAINED. I have a 2019 HONDA CRV-EX-L AWD and, i had NO IDEA there are 3 TYPES OF SCREWS to REMOVE THE DUST SHIELD. I WILL USE THIS INFORMATION to see if this is something i can do but, your right- who knows what the MECHANICS AT HONDA ARE DOING TO SERVICE THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE. Personally i'll KEEP MY CAR FOR AS LONG AS I CAN, IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG OR I SMELL MOTOR OIL (or anything else) on the inside...THEN I'LL TRADE THE CAR. VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO...MUCH THANKS.
Curious, but did the oil smell like gasoline while it was draining?? Keep in mind, that a PCM/ECU flash is part of the fix, plus other minor parts. When Honda talks efficient, they are speaking about the HEAT dissipation. YES, the new CR-V engines are SUPER efficient against heat. Therefore, short quick trips where the engine does NOT get to normal operating TEMP are the death of this engine. Otherwise, this engine will last a GREAT longtime if taken care of properly. Nice video.
1st I ever heard about a controversy about oil filter off first lol. Duh u r Correct oil pan first unless u like messes. Well explained about keeping stuff getting into oil!!
After changing oil hundreds of times over 30 years I've decided to change the filter first. It's soooooo much easier much less mess and easier to deal with than doing it with a full pan of oil and sometimes dropping it in there. You can hold the pan right under the filter and let it drain, then let it fall into the pan. So much easier and cleaner.
I do agree, about some mechanics at the dealerships are careless. When taking our cars to the dealer, we think we getting the best service, because they are supposed to be trained . On my first oil change of my then 2014 Ford Escape they damaged 2 holes of the engine cover too. Good video
If you like your vehicle, never let anyone else touch it for everyday fluid maintenance and tire rotations even "free" included maintenance. Don't constantly take a new car in to the dealer complaining about "squeaks and rattles" or "radio reception" or "funny smells". It's guaranteed they will wreck something even looking for minor problems. Major warranty repairs would be the only reason I'd ever take my car to the dealer for anything.
You are right about the life of this little 1.5 banger , with sky high pressure fuel injections and the turbo spinner , it will worn out way before the useful life of the chassis , one sure fix for this is a quick trade-in for a RAV4 with a tank like 2.5 non turbo from the big T !
Great detailed video. I have been changing my own oil since I got my first car in the states at 16. Any car mechanic will tell you it is best to warm up the oil first before changing it. It is never a good idea changing cold oil. I usually go for a quick ride. I also suggest filling up the new oil filter before installing it. Most mechanics I know do that as well.
Yes I agree with you the engine oil should be warm before doing oil change that generally help The flow I’ve done this with all my oil changes I probably just didn’t put it in the video And someone could also argue with the dilution of oil and and fuel this oil is super super thin every time I change the oil whatever I’m wearing gets a little dots on it because even the slightest breeze will make it blow out against you I will admit that I didn’t know about filling the oil filter up first but after seeing the comment a couple years back I have been filling all filter up on all of the vehicles that I change now some of the vehicles do you oil filters horizontal and you can’t really do that but I much appreciate the tips thank you for taking the time to comment And sharing your knowledge Ray
Mobil 1 0w-16 synthetic oil for Toyota and Honda Turbo GDI engines is now available. I would stick with changing the oil every 5,000 miles or 8,000 KM. Cheers, good video
Thanks For the reply and the interesting video. From what I’ve read about this oil dilution applies to 2017&2018 model years, a d has been fixed for 19 & 20
I hope you are right the only way to truly know is if you can buy one in china the Chinese government said that they will not allow the sales of CRV’s until the problem is fixed I did 6 months of research before I bought (wished I leased ) and NO one told me about this problem I love this car but changing the oil every 3000K with expensive oil and high end filter and basically NO heat in the winter is not much fun
Rays fix Honda China admitted it was a design flaw. small displacement means smaller cylinder diameter , direct fuel injector push fuel on to cylinder wall. In order to fully fix this, they need to change fuel injector angle, which means they almost need to redesign everything from start. The software helps engine get up to operating temperature quicker, but can’t fully eliminate the whole problem.
Francesc0 I’ve had my vehicle in twice for gas fumes filling my garage after parking and the dip stick smelling like pure gasoline and a rise of the oil level. The dealer says nothing is wrong or that they can’t find anything wrong. I am so sorry I bought this particular Honda.
OIL Dilution is normal in a Turbo direct-injection engine. I have that in my Subaru FXT FA20DIT the gas smell in engine oil. What is not normal is the amount of it.
Yes a little bit of gas in the engine is OK but the amount that the 1.5 turbos are doing is literally like 2 qt of oil to 3 qt of oil in 5000 miles And that is detrimental to the car
Job well done. I do my own oil changes and buy the oil filters from the Honda Dealer. I don’t have any proof but i wouldn’t use Fram filters even with the friction grip feature. I’ve never heard of a Honda Dealer using any other brand but their own. It looked like a Purolator brand which I’ve used off warranty. Surprised also at how tight they put the filter on but I guess you can’t trust anyone. I find also that when done at the Dealer they overfill by about 1/4 inch. I shop around for synthetic oil and have started using Costco’s Kirkland brand synthetic oil at $34.99 (approximately) for two jugs with 4.73 liters each. Seems ok so far. Thanks for the video.
Fram filters are fine. I have been using Fram oil filters in my Honda CRV, BMW 300i, and Nissan Pathfinder. The key is buying the premium Fram filter. They usually have 3 grades to pick from. I would only use Mobile 1 or a premium high quality synthetic. Interesting above comment by Richard Morse stating he wouldn't use anything but a Honda Oil Filter then uses a off-brand oil that may or may not be as good as a premium oil brand. You should ask your Honda dealer what they use to change oil during service. They may recommend something better then Costco's that is made by Warren Distribution company.. ;)
I’ve had two major engine problems using Fram back in the 90’s before they expanded their product line. Now that may have changed. That leaves a bad taste in your mouth. It’s also very hard to prove. My preference is for Mobile 1 and switched to Costco’s Kirkland brand with some trepidation. Costco is keeping the 5W-20 weight out of the warehouses and you have to order it on line for $10 more. Supply chain shortages have interrupted that too. If you buy Mobile 1 on sale from Canadian Tire it’s about $33-34 a jug - about 4.73 litres and Costco is $53.95 for a box of two jugs. I think the Costco brand is ok at least according to comparison tests on CZcams. The local Honda Dealer uses PetroCan oil in bulk and I don’t know what is in those 946 mL bottles in the parts Dept. They don’t use those in their oil changes. Oil is cheap and engines are expensive so I’m probably going to go back to Mobile 1 after the next oil change. I still wince when I see someone using a Fram filter. I considered using Mobile 1 oil filters and decided to stick with the Honda brand. I also do oil changes early, around 4-5000 Km. It’s a small price to pay for peace of mind.
Remember to use a high flashpoint oil Add and oil with lower evaporation point DGI engines suffer from carbon buildup behind the intake valve. Know this Honda’s are great engines filling the oil filter is a good practice if you can keep PVC valve clean and checked at each oil change
Run 5w30 or 0w30 if you can find it. That way the fuel dilution will only dilute it down to a 20 where it's supposed to be. Good choice of filter and oil.
The reason for the thinner oil is because the engine tolerances are so exact. A heavier oil would likely ruin your engine much more quickly. Do more frequent oil changes and your problem is solved.
That sucks, about the oil dilution, your video and others are why I'll buy a non turbo Rav4. I think you're being smart by changing the oill more often. Can you smell gas in the oil? A little tiny 1.5 litter motor with a turbo is going to wear out sooner than a 2.4 non turbo even without oil dilution. I also heard the CVT transmissions suck So you might want to change that fluid a lot more frequently as well. The 0w-16 is also supposed to help, but this is why I'll wait on these.
You did a very methodical oil change on your CR V. I would take that non Honda brand oil filter back for a refund. I buy genuine Honda oil filters from the parts Dept as I have heard negative comments about the Fram brand. If you buy "synthetic" oil from Canadian Tire they have it on 45-50% off if you check their flyers. You might want to add some oil to the new filter so the engine doesn't start up dry. Job well done!
I stripped the aluminum screws that hold the metal plate onto the bottom of the engine area because I didn't know that they were apparently driven on there with an impact wrench and held in place with red Loctite. If red Loctite was used you'll probably need to heat up the screws first to loosen the Loctite. The aluminum screws are pretty soft and easy to strip if you try turning them by hand.
Those screws stripped out very easily. The quarter turns I’ve stopped putting the plate back on and I’m thinking about putting valve top onto the oil drain plug so I just don’t have to use a wrench on it anymore.
I have an 2018 1.5L and I just use higher octane just beacuse it is an turbo engine. You know high performance engines use higher octane to burn the fuel clean when it runs at high rpm. So I use higher octane for the turbo (not sure if it makes a difference or not). As for saving oil, idk, I get mine changed at the dealer.
For most of the fluid changes if there’s no pan to drop or extraction bolt I have a large syringe and rubber tubing place in the fill hole and suck out the fluid and then top up the fluid afterward
Hi Ray, where did you purchase that yellow funnel? I am looking for that exact funnel and cant seem to find one like that, for a tight fit and would appreciate it if you can send me info of name brand of funnel and store location in Canada. Nice video. Thank you
A couple things. 1) I would not drive it until 15% oil life left. There is barely any oil in this engine, and this engine being a small displacement turbo, beats the oil to death. 2) Use SP rated oil. The new SP rating is much better then the previous SN+ rated oil for small displacement turbo engine, especially as it related to timing chain wear and low speed pre-ignition. 3) These engines are notorious for loading the oil with fuel. Usually most engine lose oil over the course of a few thousand miles, but this engine usually GAINS oil, which is fuel dilution. This is extremely common. My engine is a later one with the latest software update, but it STILL gains oil over 5K to 6K miles, meaning fuel dilution. For this reason, I stick with 5K mile changes. I usually change when the oil is at 50%. Its quick and easy, I do it myself, and it takes about 15 minutes. Fuel dilution lowers your already thin viscosity lube to an even thinner lube, which trashes your timing chain and other interior components. On THIS engine, I stick with 5K miles changes. On the old Honda 2.4L, it did not suffer from fuel dilution and I would have no problem going 9k-10K miles on that engine.
I had a set of those exact ramps collapse 10 seconds after I crawled out from under a car. I would urge you to buy some heavy duty ramps that are out now. They are much more robust in my opinion.
These ramps are OK I’ve had large heavy duty trucks and the Van on them without any issue You are 100% correct most of the ramps on the market are unsafe pieces of garbage and if they’ve been bent one time you got a throw them out Before the set of ramps I have a set from the 60s extremely heavy bolted together no welds My best friend had his van on the ramps and decided to turn the steering wheel On concrete it made the ramps swivel they didn’t Collapse But they did bend and had to be thrown out Thanks for commenting Ray
I would add one thing. If you had added 3.5L or 3.7US you would find that the oil would be half way between the low and the high marks on the dip stick. After every oil change I have had at a Honda dealer the oil level was at full following the oil change. That means that there is more oil in the crank case than recommended for this engine. Probably not a big deal but when you consider the oil dilution problem it exacerbates the problem. Why do they do that?
you don’t actually need to remove the two front far left/right bolts to remove the cover. that’s what i thought at first. but luckily, i went for both bolts last, and the cover fell off before i could do those bolts.
I new an interesting problem that I’ve come up with the rivet nuts on the aluminum sheet spun on the aluminum sheet That required me grinding the heads off to remove the aluminum sheet It’s in my latest Honda video
i think someone along the way took it to a quick lube place and had the oil changed. that white filter look like a jobber type . they probably lost the screws and replaced them with the type on there now. did you buy the CRV new?
@@raysfix oh that is really odd then. Honda dealers are supposed to use genuine Honda parts . is there a quick lube place very close to the dealer? only thing i could think of is they were too busy and outsourced your oil change.
2021 CRV still has this issue. My oil reeks of gas and I just bought it a few days ago. I'm going to try and return it. If not, I'm using the lemon laws to get away from this vehicle. Fuck Honda.
I thought the customer never need to change the oil on those engines as they top off themselves with fuel as you drive.... I'm being sarcastic for the screw up Honda did with those.
kosta16auto Are you done a ton of research on this vehicle and no one mentioned this problem before I bought On numerous other videos I’ve watched apparently China will not let them sell CRV‘s until the problem is 100% fixed Oil dilution problem Is still not discussed at my local dealership
Bought a 2020 , no issues. Live in Canada 🇨🇦. They fixed oil dilution off the line in late 2018. Basically they increased heat of engine and tweaked other items via programming.
210,000 miles on my 1.5t civic i have oil dilution but it hasnt been a problem yet. I change when maintenance minder comes on 8-10k miles and use the cheapest synthetic 0-20 oil i can find. Still going strong.
Mike L i cannot say for sure, Honda has offered me 6 year unlimited mile power train warranty to ease my mind, all my Trips are hwy trips so it’s not much wear on the engine, i wouldn’t buy this car had i known, but for my purposes, the car has already paid for itself.
I recently purchased my leased 2018 CRV with the 2.4 liter engine. I’m so glad at this point that it’s not the 1.5 liter turbo engine. Honda should not make turbo engines they should have stuck with reliable engines like the 2.4 liter.
Thanks, next car is definitely full electric, so I have to drive my actual gas car till the end. I was flashed about Honda first but after that it is like every other gas car.
It could be unfortunately in Canada. We don’t have the large variety that you guys have in the US. And all honesty I could use an empty filter because I change the oil every 3000 km not miles that’s what 1500 I have 64,000 km on the unit right now and change the oil probably 20 times I’m currently trying to trade this in for a Toyota RAV4 but unfortunately there’s a year to two year waiting list
You seem to enjoy changing the oil and it's good therapy. The synthetic oil and early oil change time is the perfect solution to the over amplified problem of the gas in the oil problem this engine has. You seem very distraught about the problem when it is not even a problem anymore after all you are doing. It adds to the drama of your video though, good entertainment. Thanks.
That’s a good suggestion Sandpaper for traction I have never done that but I will keep it in mind I have had to remove some with brute force because the person who installed it over tightened Thank you for sharing Ray
Nice work. If you let the oil filter drain before spinning it off you will make less of a mess. Not sure why Honda used 3 different fasteners on the belly pan...
@@raysfix - Oh... ok. Just surprised the dealer did not use a "Honda" oil filter. (Any comparable filter will work just fine). The dealers out by me use a blue filter with the Honda logo with either Part# 15400-PLM-A01 (old part #) or 15400-PLM-A02 (new part #). I have a black 2017 CR-V Touring bought new in August of 2017... never had the dreaded "oil dilution" issue that you had mentioned. I took my car in for the recall back in 2018. Still runs great!
@@raysfix yeah, the dealer doesn’t change the oil filter for the product update, only the oil. So that filter was on there for two for two consecutive oil changes. Nice!
This is my second pair of ramps My first pair were my fathers, original ramps, extremely heavy, and bolted together, not stamped or welding Couple years ago, my best friend drove his full-size van onto the ramps, and then turn the steering wheel As you know, that is the death meal for the ramps. Every part of the ramp was bent, and therefore I considered it on safe, and to the scrapyard it went
You discovered this problem a year after purchase. I discovered it about a week after I purchased mine. I didn't do the research because I was told Honda made the best and most durable engines on the planet. Big mistake. I've been doing the oil changes every 6 months or every 2000 miles as I intend to keep my '22 as long as possible. The puzzling thing is I have heard that the problem persists in the latest gen of the L1.5 turbo. They could have mated the turbo with the 2.0 engine that is nearly unbreakable. Why did they not do that ? Questions, questions...
I had fallen under the myth that Honda engines were perfect the best, but apparently they’re not I’m currently trading mine in for a RAV4. The only problem is I gotta wait six months for a year to get it
thank you for the reply the temp is cold the small pit that looks like its is close to the "H" is just a glare-reflection when the temp goes up its a solid bar from cold to hot
If you own a 1.5 turbo honda engine, do your self a favor and keep an eye on your oil level and check for gasoline smell to it. Do it yourself or have an independent mechanic check for you, honda will lie and make excuses.
I have no problem with my 2019 civic... no oil over max on the dipstick... but i do 35.000 km per year.. the car drive like a pro.. no issues.. if you take care of it, honda will go forever..!!
@@huyvo1586 No.... NEVER.. Two of my buddies have the same car, civic 1.5T 182hp... no problems whatsoever... no oil over max level on dipstick.. no benzin (gasoline) smell...
I with the other guys. No smell of gas and I have a 2017 civic touring. I have a great sense of smell, I would know for sure if there was an issue. I wonder why it’s effecting some cars and others it’s not.
satisfied owners rarely talks about his car. how many people complain about this engine? 50?100? And when their cars get fixed their complain records are still on the Internet. This car sold millions around the world. Civic and Crv turbo are best seller and they both are car/suv of the year in their class.
The maintenance minder is not accurate it gives the same reading for Synthetic oil and Conventional, I reset whenever it tells me is at 15% and change the full synthetic oil every 5,000 miles.
The three bolts that you removed that hold on the aluminum pan are not the factory hardware. They should be a large flathead bolt with just a Phillips head. They are Honda part number 90105-TBA-A00.
it takes about 5 min to take it apart/put it back. I never used any lift so it took me a little longer. Not too bad since modern cars get better aerodynamics and underbody protection this way. Wish they had holes for the drain plug and the filter so I wont have to take it off.
@@thecentralman It can live without it... Its used because some Paper Pusher says it improved Gas milage and wind resistance and reduced road noise. My Honda Pilot does NOT have one and the CRV can live without one as well. Just about every automaker is putting that crap on there cars now... Just leave it off....
I TOO have a 2019 HONDA CRV. From what i am hearing, 2017-2018 honda crvs have the OIL DILLUTION ISSUES. If i am right HONDA WORKED/IS WORKING ON THOSE ISSUES because the honda crv is a best seller. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES AS OF YET, I'll see what happens but, in all honesty if toyota were still in my town my crv would be a rav 4. The HONDA CRV is a GOOD CAR but, the OIL DILLUTION ISSUES does NOT BODE TOO WELL FOR IT. Consumer Reports ALSO DROPPED THE OVERALL SCORE FOR THE 2019 -20 HONDA CRV, It WAS 83 as an OVERALL SCORE, NOW IT IS 77..STILL GOOD BUT,NOT AS.
Doing oil changes every 3000 or 4000 kilometers ( 1800 to 2500 miles) is not necessary, especially if using synthetic oil. My 2008 C300 Mercedes owners manual recommends every 13,500 miles (20,000 km) if using synthetic, although I usually do oil and filter every 8000 miles or so. I have owned the car for 12 years and I have done only 3 oil changes. Of course it runs like new because it only has 25,000 miles on it. Also, you recommend recycling used oil. In the USA auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Oreilly's and Autozone will accept your used oil. No charge and no purchase required.
@@raysfix you'd take a bath on a few G's or so, but I'd trade it in for something else all together. Even the newer 2.4's have a lot of complaints. carcomplaints.com
Thank you, great info, Honda is confused, but they are not is just a strategy they use to cover their fokups excuse my french. yes it is efficient but at your expense, it cost you more to maintain this engine than the money you thought were going to save in the first place. Many years ago the wife special order an accord, after 6 years I had to get rid of it because the engine was smoking, the right front passenger brake rotor kept warping, Engine compression was low, I had enough, well we decided to give Honda another try after a few Nissans, and VW cars, Suvs well we have put 1000 miles on the CRV we just got and the oil percentage is at 60, you got to be kidding me! We hardly use the dawn thing, we had a Nissan PF we changed the oil every 7k miles oil came out fairly clean with over 150k on the engine! That engine still kicking some serious arse, 23 miles to the gallon with 4.0 power, dang I miss the old days. Honda you screwed up, you put out an engine that is so "efficient" that it costs more to maintain it at our cost! Thumbs down like a mug and never again!
UGOTIT come to toyota sir. There are pros and cons to every brand but with toyota you never go wrong, you will not shop another vehicle for another vehicle if done right while you enjoy life at the same time. Mazda will be distant 2nd personally.
Great video, Ray. I have an ‘18 CRV with the 1.5t. 39k mi. on the clock and using Amsoil 0w20. I also use Blackstone Labs to analyze an oil sample just before oil change. I like the detailed report results as it allows me to monitor oil/engine wear. Wish I could post copy of report here, but I don’t think attachments are allowed here. Anyway, regarding the fuel issue, I’m inserting the comments portion of the last report here, since he mentions fuel: “JOHN: We're seeing good progress with this sample. Its lower metal levels are partially due to this being a shorter interval (at least so far), but there's also plenty of improvement on a per-mile basis, perhaps due to lingering wear-in washing out. Regardless, these are healthy numbers, so your engine is maturing well and without any major issues on the horizon. Silicon is fine at 41 ppm, but it may come down more in the future once the oil is changed. There's still fuel showing up, but 1.5% isn't a harmful or problematic amount. The 3.0 TBN shows plenty of additive left. Nice!” I just sent in my latest sample a few days ago, so I’ll be curious to see if fuel ratio remains the same. As for the vehicle itself, I love it. Great performance and build quality. Btw, I also switched to ethanol-free gas. Prior to change, I was getting a consistent combined 28.5 mpg. I’m now on my 8th tank of etanol-free and mpg has improved to 33-34 combined mpg. Other benefits as well.
@@carlosgj1308 Hi Carlos....that's a great question. When I was shopping around for my car, the RAV4 was my first choice. However, after comparing the RAV4 (2017) to the CR-V, I decided to go with the CR-V because it was newly redesigned and had the fairly new 1.5 turbo with more hp/torque than the RAV4, which at the time was looking dated both inside and out. I think it wasn't until the 2018 or '19 model year that the newly redesigned RAV4 was released. To answer your question, there's no way I could say whether or not the engine would last 200k. In my own case, I'm extremely happy with my CR-V and its performance and build quality with 39k miles on the clock. I'll continue sending in oil samples to Blackstone or perhaps a different lab prior to every oil change, just to monitor engine wear and now also to monitor % of fuel in the oil. So far, after having sent in 3 oil samples for analysis, the fuel content has been under 2%, which according to the lab is not problematic. I'm by no means an expert at this, so I'm only sharing with you what my results have been. Lastly, you asked for my opinion on buying this CR-V or the RAV4. I don't lose any sleep or worry about this fuel issue. If you tend to worry about things like this or have any kind of doubt in your mind, then I would definitely buy the RAV4. As you know, both Honda and Toyota have an overall, decades long stellar record of reliability and build quality. You can't wrong with either make. My previous vehicle was a 2001 Toyota Tundra with a 4.7L V8. That was the BEST vehicle I owned in my life. It had 206,000 trouble free miles on the clock before some lady ran a stop sign and t-boned me. My beloved Tundra's frame and rear axle were severely damaged, so it died October 2017. I miss that truck soooo much. Good luck with whatever you decide.
You're absolutely right in your thinking. I have a 2020 CRV with 23,000 miles (US). I do oil changes myself using the best synthetic oil and filters. I don't know what possessed me to buy this POS but now I would bet that if this thing goes 80 to 100,000 miles it will be a miracle. How can you put a 1.5 L engine with a turbo forcing air into it and not expect it to eventually explode, blow a head gasket, etc. I don't know if it really matters that gas gets into the oil in that I change oil every three thousand miles in hopes of avoiding catastrophic engine failure. My 2013 CRV with 140,000 miles will continue running long after this 2020 CRV turns into junk. In the last 5 years, Honda cars went from one of the best to one of the worst.
@@areallytallguy Hey I know you. The other name you use on you tube is, "areallyobnoxiouspos". You're the guy that wears a bra and panties under your clothes. Please get some mental help before you self-destruct.
I have the 2017 Honda CR-V 1.5 turbo engine no problem just keep up the maintenance and change your oil regularly u be fine nothing to do about the oil dilution problem but just remake the engine that will fixed the problem Honda just mess up period
You actually put one of those “orange” oil filters on your car?? Have you ever seen any of the comparisons? For shame! Use an OEM Honda filter. The one you took off was unlikely to have been installed by a dealer.
You need to watch one of many You Tube oil filter comparisons. You will NEVER again use a Fram filter! The only good thing is the grippy material on the end. Seriously! Use Honda filters! Highly doubtful a dealer would install an aftermarket filter!
There is no requirement to have the dealer do oil changes. All you need to do is keep receipts for oil and filter purchases if you do it yourself or receipts from your local mechanic.
i just went back and looked at the video and the car look awful it must have been dust and reflection and there looks like a thousand scratches on the on the speedometer glass there are no real scratches to bad i can not post photos
I wouldn't give you 2 cents for a Fram. Do yourself a favor and buy a case of Honda filters on Ebay or Amazon and carry a spare in the back if your traveling around and not at home. Then you can give it to some wrench to put on instead of the Fram or some other cheap garbage.
By the way, unfortunately, in Canada, we don’t have the white selection that you guys have in the US. I’m wondering if the wiz filter is available on Amazon I never thought of that. Other people have commented the exact same filter brand. Also, I do fill the filter up with oil now because someone else commented on that as well. Thank you for your comment. It is much appreciated. Ray
This style of ramp is extremely safe The kind that you want to avoid are the ones made from one piece stamped Thank you for the safety concerns and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated. Ray
Get some Rhino ramps... don't slide on ya and hold heck of a lot more weight for good measure. Don't understand all these shade tree mechanics that poor a little oil, check, poor little more check..... yadda yadda yadda.. This think called the owner's manual gives the capacity for complete oil change. (3.7 qt) Just measure out your pour.
Basically, it's the owner's/driver's driving usage. If they very-cold start the CRV, then drive 5 minutes and stop/park it at the grocery store, while it's still cold, then shop, then come back to a very-cold start again, and drive 5 minutes to get back home, and they also don't regularly change their oil every 3,000 miles, and they beat the crap out of it, while it's still cold, and low miles on the engine, then there's oil dilution. The majority of the public are not educated in this bad owner/driver behavior.
So apparently your a bad driver if you live in a cold climate ,and you live close to the store 🙄. My Toyota does the job just fine because it's probably built . I don't have to go for an hour highway run before I go to the store. Honda fanboys just can't admit that this Honda engine has major problems.
hear i was thinking I did 6 months or research and not hearing any thing about oil dilution and spent 45G on a car to get me from point A to B I understand now I need to drive it for 2 hours Honda should make the remote start stay on for an hour ( the car will not heat up when idling)
Rays fix It you start the engine with a dry filter versus a filled one you will notice that the sound changes from a bad sound to a good sound in about 3-5 seconds and it should never sound bad. This is called priming the system and people have been doing it for decades.
@@mohammedkhan8293 Yeah, tall station wagon. Soft-roaders. They’re for taking the freeway to work and the occasional paved “camping” trip-just like we used to do with a Chevy Malibu wagon back in the 70s. That means it should be fine for them to use whatever engine is put into the equivalent sedan.
Awesome little tips makes the job easier
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a 2017 CRV EX AWD with the 1.5 Turbo. I bought it late Sept 2017. I did the same extensive research you did for a car I wished to keep a long time, also didn't hear about any problems till a year after I bought it. I was initially pleased with myself for getting a great car which was perfect for me. Then, boy, I was pissed. The dealership is not forthcoming, I haven't been offered a fix or warranty extension, and Honda says to drive the car longer distances to burn off contaminants (so waste time and fuel and wear your tires out driving round the block). I haven't had any issues (yet), (apart from the engine takes a long time to warm up which is worrying) but being retired, my car has only done 3600 (thirty six hundred) miles in 18 months! I'm concerned about cold starts after the car has been sitting doing nothing for a while. To be brief (ok not brief), I did a lot of internet research on oil and filters. I recommend readers check out some CZcams vids on serious tests that have been done, instead of posting a 'gut' feeling about what is good or not. Just because Honda sells it does not mean it is good. Read the data! Honda's A01 blue filter was made by Filtech and was pretty well built inside, the A02 is now made by Honeywell who also make Fram (which when disassembled looks like cheapo crap). The A02 has filter media ends that look like flimsy cardboard, and when disassembled it looks cheap and crappy too (just like Fram). I saw a quote from a Fram engineer who admitted Fram is crap, with leaky filter media inside, but he said the company doesn't fix it. I used Fram on my last car religiously and the oil always had glitter in it. Why didn't I switch? Hell, I don't know, i must be batty. I'm shocked Honda sells these A02's as OEM filters. From the little research I've done, as others said earlier, WIX, K&N and some others are much better made internally. Not all filters or all oils are equal, not all synthetics are equal. I bought Mobil 1 full synthetic, which according to a test report I read is 'middle of the road', not the best or worst when it comes to wear resistance. It may be 'good enough' for a Honda road car that's not driven hard though. With filters, the internal filter media needs to be strongly sealed at its ends and to its end caps (inside the can). The by-pass valve needs to be designed and placed well in the can with preferably a coil spring, not a sheet metal spring. The filter media needs to trap 10-20 micron (and larger) size contaminants and then not clog. If it does, the bypass valve delivers dirty oil right back into the engine. Now think on this, you put a cheapo filter on, and put in a long lasting expensive synthetic oil so you can drive 15,000 miles between changes. The cheap filter may clog after a short time and you drive the remainder of the time with the filter not working at all! Thicker filter media (made from a single layer of some organic material with cardboard-like consistency), is better than thinner. Synthetic, or a sandwich of different filter media materials, will stop finer sized particles. Do you know what is in your filter? Just because your engine didn't seize up today doesn't mean you have the 'best' oil and filter. It may be 'good enough' though, but how do you tell? If you want to keep your car a long time, I'd recommend paying the extra for the better quality items. The anti drain-back valve in a better quality filter is made from silicon (orange color) which stays flexible for the life of the filter. You can see this through the holes in the base plate of the filter. The (black) rubber ones in the cheap filters distort from heat over time, become stiffer and stop sealing. The higher price for the better filters is because the internal materials and construction are better. You pay for what you get, low price equals cheapo inside. I strongly recommend you check test results before buying oil and filters, and change your oil at a reasonable mileage for the driving conditions. Fuel or moisture in oil, short trips, lots of cold starts, overly long warm ups when beginning driving, long idling, thicker oils in engines designed for thinner oils, should all be treated as 'severe' conditions, and the oil and filter changed earlier accordingly. Don''t believe in the 'one year' oil, or the '15,000 mile' oil, unless your engine is doing a lot of longish runs instead of short ones (30 minutes minimum), and reaches proper operating temperature to burn off contaminants such as condensation and fuel. Even then, I still don't believe in the 'one year oil' or the '20,000 mile' oil. My advice is don't take the risk with your engine!
it sounds like you have done some research
if you live in the KW area we should do a video together
awesome comments
With such low mileage you will find its actually cheaper keep no car. Use taxis or Uber for daily in city travel and rentals for longer road trips. You will find a car becomes cost effective if you're driving it a minimum of 600 miles/1000km per month. The car will age out long before its engine fails at small amount of driving you're doing.
your dealer must be skilled in "putting wheels on the covered wagons". The people i know (some have 2017 crv's) they were given EXTENDED WARRANTIES of up to 100,000 miles. Maybe it depends on when you purchase these crv's.
I think very few mechanics would be as carful as you. Great job!
thank you for your nice comments
yea, THIS MECHANIC is TUNED. He is AWARE of this 1.5 L EARTHDREAMS ENGINE and CHANGES THE OIL with CARE AND REGARD to this engine. HONDA might HAVE FARED BETTER KEEPING THE 2.4 L.
Tip the oil bottle on its side to pour. It’s more controllable and doesn’t “glug”. No mess!
you are right
Ray
Thanks ray for the info on HOW TO CHANGE THE OIL ON THE HONDA CRV. I CURRENTLY OWN A 2019 HONDA CRV-EX-L-AWD with about 5,000 miles on it and, i agree with your assesment with the OIL DILLUTION ISSUE. Im hearing that 2017-2018 HONDA CRVs (some of them have the oil dillution issue but, at least you know how to change your own oil. It is NOT TO SMART FOR HONDA TO PUT ANYTHING THATS NOT HONDA SPECIFIC UNDER THE CAR, BUT THEY CAN TELL YOU TO DRIVE FARTHER. I find the INFORMATION YOU HAVE JUST GIVEN VERY INFORMATIVE AND, YOU DO SAVE SOME MONEY. If i had the room i would change my own oil too but, i rent. Thanks for the heads up and the car SHOULD LAST ABOUT 10YEARS WITH CARE. TAKE CARE.
thank you
I LIKE THIS GUY. For a BACK YARD MECHANIC i thought this video was EXPERTLY EXPLAINED. I have a 2019 HONDA CRV-EX-L AWD and, i had NO IDEA there are 3 TYPES OF SCREWS to REMOVE THE DUST SHIELD. I WILL USE THIS INFORMATION to see if this is something i can do but, your right- who knows what the MECHANICS AT HONDA ARE DOING TO SERVICE THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE. Personally i'll KEEP MY CAR FOR AS LONG AS I CAN, IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG OR I SMELL MOTOR OIL (or anything else) on the inside...THEN I'LL TRADE THE CAR. VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO...MUCH THANKS.
Clarence…why do you use random capitalization in your posts?
Excellent detail
I’m having the same problems with my CRV as well
Curious, but did the oil smell like gasoline while it was draining?? Keep in mind, that a PCM/ECU flash is part of the fix, plus other minor parts. When Honda talks efficient, they are speaking about the HEAT dissipation. YES, the new CR-V engines are SUPER efficient against heat. Therefore, short quick trips where the engine does NOT get to normal operating TEMP are the death of this engine. Otherwise, this engine will last a GREAT longtime if taken care of properly. Nice video.
Best oil change video i have seen on honda very clear talking and n=NO ugly music thanks
Thank you for the nice comments and thank you for taking time to comment much appreciate it
Ray
Mishimoto makes oil catch cans for Honda 1.5 motors. I put one in our CRV and just empty it each oil change. Dilution problem remedied.
1st I ever heard about a controversy about oil filter off first lol. Duh u r Correct oil pan first unless u like messes. Well explained about keeping stuff getting into oil!!
After changing oil hundreds of times over 30 years I've decided to change the filter first. It's soooooo much easier much less mess and easier to deal with than doing it with a full pan of oil and sometimes dropping it in there. You can hold the pan right under the filter and let it drain, then let it fall into the pan. So much easier and cleaner.
I do agree, about some mechanics at the dealerships are careless. When taking our cars to the dealer, we think we getting the best service, because they are supposed to be trained . On my first oil change of my then 2014 Ford Escape they damaged 2 holes of the engine cover too. Good video
If you like your vehicle, never let anyone else touch it for everyday fluid maintenance and tire rotations even "free" included maintenance. Don't constantly take a new car in to the dealer complaining about "squeaks and rattles" or "radio reception" or "funny smells". It's guaranteed they will wreck something even looking for minor problems. Major warranty repairs would be the only reason I'd ever take my car to the dealer for anything.
@@scdevon
I 100% agree with you,
I learned years ago that Fram filters are not a good filter. Used to be that was all I used, but not anymore. I use Purolator.
??
The Honda oil filter I buy from the Dealer in BC says Japan on the box so I’m assuming it’s made in Japan. The part number is 15400-RTA-003.
You are right about the life of this little 1.5 banger , with sky high pressure fuel injections and the turbo spinner , it will worn out way before the useful life of the chassis , one sure fix for this is a quick trade-in for a RAV4 with a tank like 2.5 non turbo from the big T !
Yeah, those new RAV4’s are fire. Literally.
I wish i had bought the RAV4 instead of 2021 CR-V. My oil reeks of gas and this is terrible for the engine. Absolute bullshit what Honda is doing.
Great detailed video. I have been changing my own oil since I got my first car in the states at 16. Any car mechanic will tell you it is best to warm up the oil first before changing it. It is never a good idea changing cold oil. I usually go for a quick ride. I also suggest filling up the new oil filter before installing it. Most mechanics I know do that as well.
Yes I agree with you the engine oil should be warm before doing oil change that generally help The flow
I’ve done this with all my oil changes I probably just didn’t put it in the video
And someone could also argue with the dilution of oil and and fuel this oil is super super thin every time I change the oil whatever I’m wearing gets a little dots on it because even the slightest breeze will make it blow out against you
I will admit that I didn’t know about filling the oil filter up first but after seeing the comment a couple years back I have been filling all filter up on all of the vehicles that I change now some of the vehicles do you oil filters horizontal and you can’t really do that but I much appreciate the tips
thank you for taking the time to comment
And sharing your knowledge
Ray
Why?! All the old oil is at the bottom if it's cold!
Change frequently I go 2700 I do agree with you I'm not a fan of filling it all the way up to the max with oil I'm usually half or 3/4
Nice video .....thank you for sharing with us.
Thank you too
Mobil 1 0w-16 synthetic oil for Toyota and Honda Turbo GDI engines is now available.
I would stick with changing the oil every 5,000 miles or 8,000 KM.
Cheers, good video
af1023
Thx for that tidbit on Ow-16. I’ll have to read up on that.
thank you
I use 5W-30 Mobil 1 in the Summer and 0W-20 in the winter. No issues in 132,000 miles.
Thanks For the reply and the interesting video. From what I’ve read about this oil dilution applies to 2017&2018 model years, a d has been fixed for 19 & 20
I hope you are right
the only way to truly know is if you can buy one in china
the Chinese government said that they will not allow the sales of CRV’s
until the problem is fixed
I did 6 months of research before I bought (wished I leased )
and NO one told me about this problem
I love this car but changing the oil every 3000K with expensive oil and high end filter
and basically NO heat in the winter is not much fun
Rays fix Honda China admitted it was a design flaw. small displacement means smaller cylinder diameter , direct fuel injector push fuel on to cylinder wall. In order to fully fix this, they need to change fuel injector angle, which means they almost need to redesign everything from start. The software helps engine get up to operating temperature quicker, but can’t fully eliminate the whole problem.
No the oil dilution problem has not been fixed in the 2019’s. I have one unfortunately.
Dealer going to help?
Francesc0 I’ve had my vehicle in twice for gas fumes filling my garage after parking and the dip stick smelling like pure gasoline and a rise of the oil level. The dealer says nothing is wrong or that they can’t find anything wrong. I am so sorry I bought this particular Honda.
I change my oil and filter every 3k miles, myself , Mobil 1 oil and filter , cost about $36, Mobil one from Cosco when on sale. Great video.
Good plan with a direct injection turbo
Supertech syn would work just as well at 3k
OIL Dilution is normal in a Turbo direct-injection engine. I have that in my Subaru FXT FA20DIT the gas smell in engine oil. What is not normal is the amount of it.
Yes a little bit of gas in the engine is OK but the amount that the 1.5 turbos are doing is literally like 2 qt of oil to 3 qt of oil in 5000 miles And that is detrimental to the car
Job well done. I do my own oil changes and buy the oil filters from the Honda Dealer. I don’t have any proof but i wouldn’t use Fram filters even with the friction grip feature. I’ve never heard of a Honda Dealer using any other brand but their own. It looked like a Purolator brand which I’ve used off warranty. Surprised also at how tight they put the filter on but I guess you can’t trust anyone. I find also that when done at the Dealer they overfill by about 1/4 inch. I shop around for synthetic oil and have started using Costco’s Kirkland brand synthetic oil at $34.99 (approximately) for two jugs with 4.73 liters each. Seems ok so far. Thanks for the video.
thank you
Ray
Fram filters are fine. I have been using Fram oil filters in my Honda CRV, BMW 300i, and Nissan Pathfinder. The key is buying the premium Fram filter. They usually have 3 grades to pick from. I would only use Mobile 1 or a premium high quality synthetic. Interesting above comment by Richard Morse stating he wouldn't use anything but a Honda Oil Filter then uses a off-brand oil that may or may not be as good as a premium oil brand. You should ask your Honda dealer what they use to change oil during service. They may recommend something better then Costco's that is made by Warren Distribution company.. ;)
I’ve had two major engine problems using Fram back in the 90’s before they expanded their product line. Now that may have changed. That leaves a bad taste in your mouth. It’s also very hard to prove. My preference is for Mobile 1 and switched to Costco’s Kirkland brand with some trepidation. Costco is keeping the 5W-20 weight out of the warehouses and you have to order it on line for $10 more. Supply chain shortages have interrupted that too. If you buy Mobile 1 on sale from Canadian Tire it’s about $33-34 a jug - about 4.73 litres and Costco is $53.95 for a box of two jugs. I think the Costco brand is ok at least according to comparison tests on CZcams. The local Honda Dealer uses PetroCan oil in bulk and I don’t know what is in those 946 mL bottles in the parts Dept. They don’t use those in their oil changes. Oil is cheap and engines are expensive so I’m probably going to go back to Mobile 1 after the next oil change. I still wince when I see someone using a Fram filter. I considered using Mobile 1 oil filters and decided to stick with the Honda brand. I also do oil changes early, around 4-5000 Km. It’s a small price to pay for peace of mind.
Remember to use a high flashpoint oil Add and oil with lower evaporation point DGI engines suffer from carbon buildup behind the intake valve. Know this Honda’s are great engines filling the oil filter is a good practice if you can keep PVC valve clean and checked at each oil change
I did not check the PVC valve
will do on the next oil change
Run 5w30 or 0w30 if you can find it. That way the fuel dilution will only dilute it down to a 20 where it's supposed to be. Good choice of filter and oil.
The reason for the thinner oil is because the engine tolerances are so exact. A heavier oil would likely ruin your engine much more quickly. Do more frequent oil changes and your problem is solved.
That sucks, about the oil dilution, your video and others are why I'll buy a non turbo Rav4. I think you're being smart by changing the oill more often. Can you smell gas in the oil?
A little tiny 1.5 litter motor with a turbo is going to wear out sooner than a 2.4 non turbo even without oil dilution. I also heard the CVT transmissions suck So you might want to change that fluid a lot more frequently as well. The 0w-16 is also supposed to help, but this is why I'll wait on these.
What year honda? Also. With super thin oil the new oil filter has to be filled with oil before it is installed!
....hood prop. that had me rollin for some reason,.
You did a very methodical oil change on your CR V. I would take that non Honda brand oil filter back for a refund. I buy genuine Honda oil filters from the parts Dept as I have heard negative comments about the Fram brand. If you buy "synthetic" oil from Canadian Tire they have it on 45-50% off if you check their flyers. You might want to add some oil to the new filter so the engine doesn't start up dry. Job well done!
or pick up a Wix xp or K&N. They are very good.
that was the first oil change that I did my self on the CRV and plan on changing the oil every 4 thousand K
I stripped the aluminum screws that hold the metal plate onto the bottom of the engine area because I didn't know that they were apparently driven on there with an impact wrench and held in place with red Loctite. If red Loctite was used you'll probably need to heat up the screws first to loosen the Loctite. The aluminum screws are pretty soft and easy to strip if you try turning them by hand.
Those screws stripped out very easily. The quarter turns I’ve stopped putting the plate back on and I’m thinking about putting valve top onto the oil drain plug so I just don’t have to use a wrench on it anymore.
Helpful
And if you're vehicle is under warranty how did you prove to Honda (or to your warranty company) that you did the oil changes?
Nice job with the video...but I don't think I would use those ramps.
good info
have you looked into using higher octane?? many seem to have better results of less fuel in the oil.
I have an 2018 1.5L and I just use higher octane just beacuse it is an turbo engine. You know high performance engines use higher octane to burn the fuel clean when it runs at high rpm. So I use higher octane for the turbo (not sure if it makes a difference or not). As for saving oil, idk, I get mine changed at the dealer.
What about maintenance codes 1= tire rotation, 6= replace rear diff fluid, 7= replace brake fluid and 9?
For most of the fluid changes if there’s no pan to drop or extraction bolt
I have a large syringe and rubber tubing place in the fill hole and suck out the fluid and then top up the fluid afterward
Hi Ray, where did you purchase that yellow funnel? I am looking for that exact funnel and cant seem to find one like that, for a tight fit and would appreciate it if you can send me info of name brand of funnel and store location in Canada. Nice video. Thank you
I went to look for it and i can not find it now
most likely Canadian tire
@@raysfix Hi Ray thanks for your reply. Oh okay. Thanks anyway.
A couple things. 1) I would not drive it until 15% oil life left. There is barely any oil in this engine, and this engine being a small displacement turbo, beats the oil to death. 2) Use SP rated oil. The new SP rating is much better then the previous SN+ rated oil for small displacement turbo engine, especially as it related to timing chain wear and low speed pre-ignition. 3) These engines are notorious for loading the oil with fuel. Usually most engine lose oil over the course of a few thousand miles, but this engine usually GAINS oil, which is fuel dilution. This is extremely common. My engine is a later one with the latest software update, but it STILL gains oil over 5K to 6K miles, meaning fuel dilution. For this reason, I stick with 5K mile changes. I usually change when the oil is at 50%. Its quick and easy, I do it myself, and it takes about 15 minutes. Fuel dilution lowers your already thin viscosity lube to an even thinner lube, which trashes your timing chain and other interior components. On THIS engine, I stick with 5K miles changes. On the old Honda 2.4L, it did not suffer from fuel dilution and I would have no problem going 9k-10K miles on that engine.
I had a set of those exact ramps collapse 10 seconds after I crawled out from under a car. I would urge you to buy some heavy duty ramps that are out now. They are much more robust in my opinion.
These ramps are OK
I’ve had large heavy duty trucks and the Van on them without any issue
You are 100% correct most of the ramps on the market are unsafe pieces of garbage and if they’ve been bent one time you got a throw them out
Before the set of ramps I have a set from the 60s extremely heavy bolted together no welds My best friend had his van on the ramps and decided to turn the steering wheel
On concrete it made the ramps swivel they didn’t Collapse
But they did bend and had to be thrown out
Thanks for commenting
Ray
I would add one thing. If you had added 3.5L or 3.7US you would find that the oil would be half way between the low and the high marks on the dip stick. After every oil change I have had at a Honda dealer the oil level was at full following the oil change. That means that there is more oil in the crank case than recommended for this engine. Probably not a big deal but when you consider the oil dilution problem it exacerbates the problem. Why do they do that?
I do not know
This is a very good comment.
you don’t actually need to remove the two front far left/right bolts to remove the cover.
that’s what i thought at first. but luckily, i went for both bolts last, and the cover fell off before i could do those bolts.
I new an interesting problem that I’ve come up with the rivet nuts on the aluminum sheet spun on the aluminum sheet
That required me grinding the heads off to remove the aluminum sheet
It’s in my latest Honda video
Pan head screws stay, I haven’t had any issues with the rivnuts on mine, I don’t tighten the shit out of them either.
i think someone along the way took it to a quick lube place and had the oil changed. that white filter look like a jobber type . they probably lost the screws and replaced them with the type on there now.
did you buy the CRV new?
I bought new
and up to that point only serviced at Honda
I will do all of my own oil changes from now on
Ray
@@raysfix oh that is really odd then. Honda dealers are supposed to use genuine Honda parts . is there a quick lube place very close to the dealer? only thing i could think of is they were too busy and outsourced your oil change.
Hey man does this FUEL ISSUE happens on 2019 CRV or is just happen on 2017and 2018 model. Please told me they don’t. Thanks
ATG says that have the same problems like their SRS System.
When you go to the dealership..they will say no.
2021 CRV still has this issue. My oil reeks of gas and I just bought it a few days ago. I'm going to try and return it. If not, I'm using the lemon laws to get away from this vehicle. Fuck Honda.
Thoughts on “Priming” the new filter with fresh oil before installing?
R. Plante I add fresh oil to the filter depending on angle of the filter.
Always add oil to the filter, as much as will stay in there depending on the installation angle.
ALWAYS
Personal choice.
Thanks
I thought the customer never need to change the oil on those engines as they top off themselves with fuel as you drive....
I'm being sarcastic for the screw up Honda did with those.
kosta16auto
Are you done a ton of research on this vehicle and no one mentioned this problem before I bought
On numerous other videos I’ve watched apparently China will not let them sell CRV‘s until the problem is 100% fixed
Oil dilution problem Is still not discussed at my local dealership
Topped off with gas. Now if they could figure out how to top off the gas tank the same way?
kosta16auto It’s a funny reply
Good one
good one :-)
Bought a 2020 , no issues. Live in Canada 🇨🇦. They fixed oil dilution off the line in late 2018. Basically they increased heat of engine and tweaked other items via programming.
Does the ECON mode disengage the turbo injection?
This is not my area sorry just need to be honest
its my wife's car and it is always set on econ
@@raysfix thanks, but sorry for asking an obviously dumb question: the car would not go without fuel
I was hearing all kinds of complaints about my new Honda Earth Dream 1.5t, so I had to fix it. I fixed it by not listening to any more complaints...
So ignoring it will make it go away.
210,000 miles on my 1.5t civic i have oil dilution but it hasnt been a problem yet. I change when maintenance minder comes on 8-10k miles and use the cheapest synthetic 0-20 oil i can find. Still going strong.
@@frankly2677 Hi Marshall, so whats your take on this oil dilution problem? is it overhyped or is it a legit problem?
Mike L i cannot say for sure, Honda has offered me 6 year unlimited mile power train warranty to ease my mind, all my Trips are hwy trips so it’s not much wear on the engine, i wouldn’t buy this car had i known, but for my purposes, the car has already paid for itself.
I recently purchased my leased 2018 CRV with the 2.4 liter engine. I’m so glad at this point that it’s not the 1.5 liter turbo engine. Honda should not make turbo engines they should have stuck with reliable engines like the 2.4 liter.
that was not an option when i bought
Thanks, next car is definitely full electric, so I have to drive my actual gas car till the end. I was flashed about Honda first but after that it is like every other gas car.
Then you can worry about battery life, range, electric bills, spontaneous combustion, and poor resale value.🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💵💵💵💵☠️☠️☠️☠️
@@barackblows1942 One of the worst mistakes to make is buying an electric car EV.
Is the red can of death's oil filter
It could be unfortunately in Canada. We don’t have the large variety that you guys have in the US.
And all honesty I could use an empty filter because I change the oil every 3000 km not miles that’s what 1500
I have 64,000 km on the unit right now and change the oil probably 20 times
I’m currently trying to trade this in for a Toyota RAV4 but unfortunately there’s a year to two year waiting list
You seem to enjoy changing the oil and it's good therapy. The synthetic oil and early oil change time is the perfect solution to the over amplified problem of the gas in the oil problem this engine has. You seem very distraught about the problem when it is not even a problem anymore after all you are doing. It adds to the drama of your video though, good entertainment. Thanks.
seems they are getting cracks in them ..ask mechanics who work on these 1.5 turbos..
Grab the filter with sandpaper and use some muscle and it will turn sandpaper is the best with a good rubber glove on
That’s a good suggestion Sandpaper for traction
I have never done that but I will keep it in mind
I have had to remove some with brute force because the person who installed it over tightened
Thank you for sharing
Ray
Nice work. If you let the oil filter drain before spinning it off you will make less of a mess. Not sure why Honda used 3 different fasteners on the belly pan...
To make customers not want to do their own oil changes.
@@nickv4073 Or so engineers keep making worthless drawings and changes to keep their jobs?
@@jeffkeryk3550 No, the changes are to drive more people to Honda dealerships to make the dealers happy.
I'm not sure why they used all different fasteners like that that makes no sense at all
I know why they had to tap less threads for the 10 mm bolts do you agree
Did the dealer do the last oil change? Old oil filter = Fram ???
Eddie P
The last time the oil was changed was at the dealership for the recall
@@raysfix - Oh... ok. Just surprised the dealer did not use a "Honda" oil filter. (Any comparable filter will work just fine). The dealers out by me use a blue filter with the Honda logo with either Part# 15400-PLM-A01 (old part #) or 15400-PLM-A02 (new part #). I have a black 2017 CR-V Touring bought new in August of 2017... never had the dreaded "oil dilution" issue that you had mentioned. I took my car in for the recall back in 2018. Still runs great!
Eddie P the oil filters Honda uses are probably made by Fram anyways.
@@raysfix yeah, the dealer doesn’t change the oil filter for the product update, only the oil. So that filter was on there for two for two consecutive oil changes. Nice!
What year is the CRV?
2017
Driving up on ramps is a lost art. I have my wife eyeball the ramps for me as I drive up.
This is my second pair of ramps
My first pair were my fathers, original ramps, extremely heavy, and bolted together, not stamped or welding
Couple years ago, my best friend drove his full-size van onto the ramps, and then turn the steering wheel
As you know, that is the death meal for the ramps.
Every part of the ramp was bent, and therefore I considered it on safe, and to the scrapyard it went
You discovered this problem a year after purchase. I discovered it about a week after I purchased mine. I didn't do the research because I was told Honda made the best and most durable engines on the planet. Big mistake. I've been doing the oil changes every 6 months or every 2000 miles as I intend to keep my '22 as long as possible. The puzzling thing is I have heard that the problem persists in the latest gen of the L1.5 turbo. They could have mated the turbo with the 2.0 engine that is nearly unbreakable. Why did they not do that ? Questions, questions...
I had fallen under the myth that Honda engines were perfect the best, but apparently they’re not
I’m currently trading mine in for a RAV4. The only problem is I gotta wait six months for a year to get it
At 0:11 why was your engine temp so high?
thank you for the reply
the temp is cold the small pit that looks like its is
close to the "H" is just a glare-reflection
when the temp goes up its a solid bar from cold to hot
If you own a 1.5 turbo honda engine, do your self a favor and keep an eye on your oil level and check for gasoline smell to it. Do it yourself or have an independent mechanic check for you, honda will lie and make excuses.
good advice
@xxlxpman It doesn’t matter who checks the engine for the dilution problem Honda still says everything is fine. THAT’S the problem!!
I have no problem with my 2019 civic... no oil over max on the dipstick... but i do 35.000 km per year.. the car drive like a pro.. no issues.. if you take care of it, honda will go forever..!!
did you smell like gas or oil burn from the vents sometime ?
@@huyvo1586 No.... NEVER.. Two of my buddies have the same car, civic 1.5T 182hp... no problems whatsoever... no oil over max level on dipstick.. no benzin (gasoline) smell...
I have 2016 civic and also don't have the problem mentioned. It is fast and economical.
I with the other guys. No smell of gas and I have a 2017 civic touring. I have a great sense of smell, I would know for sure if there was an issue. I wonder why it’s effecting some cars and others it’s not.
satisfied owners rarely talks about his car. how many people complain about this engine? 50?100? And when their cars get fixed their complain records are still on the Internet. This car sold millions around the world. Civic and Crv turbo are best seller and they both are car/suv of the year in their class.
The maintenance minder is not accurate it gives the same reading for Synthetic oil and Conventional, I reset whenever it tells me is at 15% and change the full synthetic oil every 5,000 miles.
you should only use full synthetic oil in the CRV earth dream engine
As far as I know 0w-20 only comes in full synthetic
Had change plugs 3 of them on 03 2.4 plugs smell like gas the no 2 cylinder wouldnt take new plug had to put old plug back in OMG
that is a problem I have not had yet
its nice to have things to look forward to
The three bolts that you removed that hold on the aluminum pan are not the factory hardware. They should be a large flathead bolt with just a Phillips head. They are Honda part number 90105-TBA-A00.
its what was on the car when i removed the pan
I understand. I just wanted to let you know in case you wanted to put the correct hardware back on at some point.
Do u really need that bottom cover?i have a 2004 CR-V and it doesn’t have that cover.i change my own oil and that cover seems like a pain in the azz.😬
it takes about 5 min to take it apart/put it back. I never used any lift so it took me a little longer. Not too bad since modern cars get better aerodynamics and underbody protection this way. Wish they had holes for the drain plug and the filter so I wont have to take it off.
in the video I don't think that I showed me hammering the one side flat
from the fasteners bending the aluminum
Honda oil filters are blue in color.
@@thecentralman It can live without it... Its used because some Paper Pusher says it improved Gas milage and wind resistance and reduced road noise. My Honda Pilot does NOT have one and the CRV can live without one as well. Just about every automaker is putting that crap on there cars now... Just leave it off....
They probably did that to reduce wind drag? I have a 2009 CRV and it don't have that crap
What year crv is yours?.. my bolts are a little different than yours.. I have a 19 crv.
its a 2017
2017
I TOO have a 2019 HONDA CRV. From what i am hearing, 2017-2018 honda crvs have the OIL DILLUTION ISSUES. If i am right HONDA WORKED/IS WORKING ON THOSE ISSUES because the honda crv is a best seller. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES AS OF YET, I'll see what happens but, in all honesty if toyota were still in my town my crv would be a rav 4. The HONDA CRV is a GOOD CAR but, the OIL DILLUTION ISSUES does NOT BODE TOO WELL FOR IT. Consumer Reports ALSO DROPPED THE OVERALL SCORE FOR THE 2019 -20 HONDA CRV, It WAS 83 as an OVERALL SCORE, NOW IT IS 77..STILL GOOD BUT,NOT AS.
white clarence Honda “says” they have “corrected “ the problem starting with the 2019 models but this is not true. I have a 2019 with the same issues.
@@shocksemler8145 I have a 2021 CRV with the oil dilution problem.
Doing oil changes every 3000 or 4000 kilometers ( 1800 to 2500 miles) is not necessary, especially if using synthetic oil. My 2008 C300 Mercedes owners manual recommends every 13,500 miles (20,000 km) if using synthetic, although I usually do oil and filter every 8000 miles or so. I have owned the car for 12 years and I have done only 3 oil changes. Of course it runs like new because it only has 25,000 miles on it. Also, you recommend recycling used oil. In the USA auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Oreilly's and Autozone will accept your used oil. No charge and no purchase required.
You should at least change it annually. You should have changed it at least 12-times. I’m surprised a Mercedes will last 12-years.💩
I have a 1997 CRV, should I use synthetic oil and change it every 15,000 miles?
Every 5000 miles with full synthetic, or 3000 with synthetic blend
Run high mileage synthetic blend or conventional. you can still probably go 5000 miles on modern conventional. It's a lot better than it used to be.
I have never used a honda filter. 170000 miles on my 2010 civic. No problems. Use Silver or gold Fram filters.
Do smell gas in your oil?
yes but it is a strong petroleum not a stale gas smell
@@raysfix you'd take a bath on a few G's or so, but I'd trade it in for something else all together. Even the newer 2.4's have a lot of complaints. carcomplaints.com
I purchased a 2020 for the first 1500 miles it’s real quiet now every time I accelerate it sounds like shit
first off test drive a new one
you will probably see that it sounds the same
you might not have notices it before
Ray
Nope just don’t sound the same as when I bought it getting ready to get back to the dealer probably say it’s normal
going to buy a used RAV4 because of the oil dilution problem with the CR-V
Thank you, great info, Honda is confused, but they are not is just a strategy they use to cover their fokups excuse my french. yes it is efficient but at your expense, it cost you more to maintain this engine than the money you thought were going to save in the first place. Many years ago the wife special order an accord, after 6 years I had to get rid of it because the engine was smoking, the right front passenger brake rotor kept warping, Engine compression was low, I had enough, well we decided to give Honda another try after a few Nissans, and VW cars, Suvs well we have put 1000 miles on the CRV we just got and the oil percentage is at 60, you got to be kidding me! We hardly use the dawn thing, we had a Nissan PF we changed the oil every 7k miles oil came out fairly clean with over 150k on the engine! That engine still kicking some serious arse, 23 miles to the gallon with 4.0 power, dang I miss the old days. Honda you screwed up, you put out an engine that is so "efficient" that it costs more to maintain it at our cost! Thumbs down like a mug and never again!
I agree with you
Next time come to toyota or mazda sir then you set.
UGOTIT come to toyota sir. There are pros and cons to every brand but with toyota you never go wrong, you will not shop another vehicle for another vehicle if done right while you enjoy life at the same time. Mazda will be distant 2nd personally.
Earth dreams equals earth nightmare!
hi i am planning to buy used 2016 CRV EXL which has 118k km. you think this model has the same issue?
the earth dram engine 1.5L is 2017 and up
you are safe
2015 is still a GDI engine to the best of my knowledge. I won't buy anything newer than 2014.
Great video, Ray. I have an ‘18 CRV with the 1.5t. 39k mi. on the clock and using Amsoil 0w20. I also use Blackstone Labs to analyze an oil sample just before oil change. I like the detailed report results as it allows me to monitor oil/engine wear. Wish I could post copy of report here, but I don’t think attachments are allowed here. Anyway, regarding the fuel issue, I’m inserting the comments portion of the last report here, since he mentions fuel:
“JOHN: We're seeing good progress with this sample. Its lower metal levels are partially due to this being a
shorter interval (at least so far), but there's also plenty of improvement on a per-mile basis, perhaps due to
lingering wear-in washing out. Regardless, these are healthy numbers, so your engine is maturing well and
without any major issues on the horizon. Silicon is fine at 41 ppm, but it may come down more in the future
once the oil is changed. There's still fuel showing up, but 1.5% isn't a harmful or problematic amount. The
3.0 TBN shows plenty of additive left. Nice!”
I just sent in my latest sample a few days ago, so I’ll be curious to see if fuel ratio remains the same. As for the vehicle itself, I love it. Great performance and build quality. Btw, I also switched to ethanol-free gas. Prior to change, I was getting a consistent combined 28.5 mpg. I’m now on my 8th tank of etanol-free and mpg has improved to 33-34 combined mpg. Other benefits as well.
John Gonzales hi so si you think it’s worth to buy this CRV and would it last the engine at least 200k or is it better to but rav4 thanks
@@carlosgj1308
Hi Carlos....that's a great question. When I was shopping around for my car, the RAV4 was my first choice. However, after comparing the RAV4 (2017) to the CR-V, I decided to go with the CR-V because it was newly redesigned and had the fairly new 1.5 turbo with more hp/torque than the RAV4, which at the time was looking dated both inside and out. I think it wasn't until the 2018 or '19 model year that the newly redesigned RAV4 was released.
To answer your question, there's no way I could say whether or not the engine would last 200k. In my own case, I'm extremely happy with my CR-V and its performance and build quality with 39k miles on the clock. I'll continue sending in oil samples to Blackstone or perhaps a different lab prior to every oil change, just to monitor engine wear and now also to monitor % of fuel in the oil. So far, after having sent in 3 oil samples for analysis, the fuel content has been under 2%, which according to the lab is not problematic. I'm by no means an expert at this, so I'm only sharing with you what my results have been.
Lastly, you asked for my opinion on buying this CR-V or the RAV4. I don't lose any sleep or worry about this fuel issue. If you tend to worry about things like this or have any kind of doubt in your mind, then I would definitely buy the RAV4. As you know, both Honda and Toyota have an overall, decades long stellar record of reliability and build quality. You can't wrong with either make.
My previous vehicle was a 2001 Toyota Tundra with a 4.7L V8. That was the BEST vehicle I owned in my life. It had 206,000 trouble free miles on the clock before some lady ran a stop sign and t-boned me. My beloved Tundra's frame and rear axle were severely damaged, so it died October 2017. I miss that truck soooo much.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
I have read from other Blackstone reports that under 2% fuel in oil is normal and is common in all makes of turbo direct injected engines.
You're absolutely right in your thinking. I have a 2020 CRV with 23,000 miles (US). I do oil changes myself using the best synthetic oil and filters. I don't know what possessed me to buy this POS but now I would bet that if this thing goes 80 to 100,000 miles it will be a miracle. How can you put a 1.5 L engine with a turbo forcing air into it and not expect it to eventually explode, blow a head gasket, etc. I don't know if it really matters that gas gets into the oil in that I change oil every three thousand miles in hopes of avoiding catastrophic engine failure. My 2013 CRV with 140,000 miles will continue running long after this 2020 CRV turns into junk. In the last 5 years, Honda cars went from one of the best to one of the worst.
You sound like a nut case. There are videos of these engines with 200k + and even one with 700k miles on it with zero issues.
Do you even own the car?
@@areallytallguy Hey I know you. The other name you use on you tube is, "areallyobnoxiouspos". You're the guy that wears a bra and panties under your clothes. Please get some mental help before you self-destruct.
@@Carp4125 nah, sounds like your mom who pegs you in your basement
@@areallytallguy Can't happen.. First you gotta dig her up.
I have the 2017 Honda CR-V 1.5 turbo engine no problem just keep up the maintenance and change your oil regularly u be fine nothing to do about the oil dilution problem but just remake the engine that will fixed the problem Honda just mess up period
The oil on my 2018 Accord doesn’t flow out like that it sprays out of the engine
do you have the engine running ?
Rays fix of course not, but it literally flows like water
I’ve never seen such thin oil
crewboy23 thankfully I wasn’t the only one
You actually put one of those “orange” oil filters on your car?? Have you ever seen any of the comparisons? For shame! Use an OEM Honda filter. The one you took off was unlikely to have been installed by a dealer.
You need to watch one of many You Tube oil filter comparisons. You will NEVER again
use a Fram filter! The only good thing is the grippy material on the end. Seriously! Use
Honda filters! Highly doubtful a dealer would install an aftermarket filter!
I 100% agree! I always spend more for a higher quality filter. Fram filters are garbage.
How is the car still under warranty if he’s isn’t doing the oil change at the dealer?
Service just needs to be done according to the manual. Doesn’t have to be by the dealer.
There is no requirement to have the dealer do oil changes. All you need to do is keep receipts for oil and filter purchases if you do it yourself or receipts from your local mechanic.
Don't wait until 15% with these cars. Or any car. Change every 5000 miles or 6 months. Solve many problems.
im sure even with this issue the engine will last 200k miles
I am only hoping to get 150K that is 10 years of driving
The arrow is telling you which way to loosen them
And you push the hool lever to the right! Not the left!
When ever I take my crv in the Dealership I get 3 free months of satellite radio even if it's a state inspection.
the only thing I get is good service and is not free
Man you ought to see a Toyota Tundra- Awful !
You need to clean the inside of your car 😜
i just went back and looked at the video
and the car look awful it must have been dust and reflection and there looks like a thousand scratches on the on the speedometer glass
there are no real scratches
to bad i can not post photos
I wouldn't give you 2 cents for a Fram. Do yourself a favor and buy a case of Honda filters on Ebay or Amazon and carry a spare in the back if your traveling around and not at home. Then you can give it to some wrench to put on instead of the Fram or some other cheap garbage.
thank you will look into buying in bulk
are there counter fit Honda filters I should look out for?
All good except for the fram filter absolute garbage wix filters are the best!!
By the way, unfortunately, in Canada, we don’t have the white selection that you guys have in the US. I’m wondering if the wiz filter is available on Amazon I never thought of that.
Other people have commented the exact same filter brand. Also, I do fill the filter up with oil now because someone else commented on that as well.
Thank you for your comment. It is much appreciated.
Ray
Mazda Skyactiv has the same problem or even more. Never heard of any problems with the gasoline motors.
Looks dangerous I would put a jack too.
This style of ramp is extremely safe
The kind that you want to avoid are the ones made from one piece stamped
Thank you for the safety concerns and thank you for taking the time to comment. It’s much appreciated.
Ray
Get some Rhino ramps... don't slide on ya and hold heck of a lot more weight for good measure. Don't understand all these shade tree mechanics that poor a little oil, check, poor little more check..... yadda yadda yadda.. This think called the owner's manual gives the capacity for complete oil change. (3.7 qt) Just measure out your pour.
Basically, it's the owner's/driver's driving usage. If they very-cold start the CRV, then drive 5 minutes and stop/park it at the grocery store, while it's still cold, then shop, then come back to a very-cold start again, and drive 5 minutes to get back home, and they also don't regularly change their oil every 3,000 miles, and they beat the crap out of it, while it's still cold, and low miles on the engine, then there's oil dilution. The majority of the public are not educated in this bad owner/driver behavior.
So apparently your a bad driver if you live in a cold climate ,and you live close to the store 🙄. My Toyota does the job just fine because it's probably built . I don't have to go for an hour highway run before I go to the store. Honda fanboys just can't admit that this Honda engine has major problems.
hear i was thinking I did 6 months or research and not hearing any thing about oil dilution
and spent 45G on a car to get me from point A to B
I understand now
I need to drive it for 2 hours
Honda should make the remote start stay on for an hour ( the car will not heat up when idling)
@@gmcimpala Or.. could it be that you don't allow your vehicle to warm up like I mentioned.
Should have put some oil in the filter before reinstalling it.....
can you explain why ?
I have never done that before or seen anyone do it
thank you
Ray
Rays fix It you start the engine with a dry filter versus a filled one you will notice that the sound changes from a bad sound to a good sound in about 3-5 seconds and it should never sound bad. This is called priming the system and people have been doing it for decades.
You need to clean your interior.
yes
Why d fck would u put a 1.5l turbo engine in an suv?
It’s not an SUV. It’s a tall station wagon.
@@BillLaBrie it is a small SUV like Mazda cx-30.
@@mohammedkhan8293 Yeah, tall station wagon. Soft-roaders. They’re for taking the freeway to work and the occasional paved “camping” trip-just like we used to do with a Chevy Malibu wagon back in the 70s. That means it should be fine for them to use whatever engine is put into the equivalent sedan.
You got robbed by that Honda dealership
It happens sometimes ;-)