Buy the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351051&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack= Buy the Elegoo Mars 4 Here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351049&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack= Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions czcams.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/video.html) Join this channel to get access to perks: czcams.com/channels/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjA.htmljoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer 3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
I had a massive work project requiring 10gig+ image files on USB drives, sandisk proved quite unreliable, Kingston was worse, what I found was 2 general things, the more you spend the more reliable, and look for metal cases not plastic, heat dissipation really helps.
Printers are fully released and elegoo doesn’t even have the base firmware on the site. I’ve had problems in the beginning when my printer was bricked because a wrongly formatted usb was inserted. Anyway you see it, the machine is very capable but was not ready to be released and that is insulting to the customer.
Some minor corrections on the resolution argument, HD is 720p, 1080p is FullHD. 4k is not "double HD" is 4 times FullHD, because it is the number of pixels that matters, not only the single axis resolution. The same goes for the other resolutions, with some adjustments for mid values (2K is also known as QHD, because it's 4 times HD).
Correction 2k isn't QHD. 4K is not called 4k because it's 4x 1080p. 4k comes from cinema standards and it refers to the horizontal pixel count. Full 4k is 4096x2160, 3840x2160 is close enough so the name stuck. Full 2k is 2048x1080 which would make 1080p 2k following the same logic. Calling 1440p 2k is just marketing nonsense.
@@xForseen Yup, I knew that 4k came from cinema, but I thought that this reference also stuck for the aforementioned proportion. Interesting to know that it's mostly marketing. For the 2k I referenced it cause it was used in the video; I usually use QHD to reference that pixel combination and I thought they were interchangeable. Overall the point was that the relative proportions mentioned in the video were not correct, that is the reason for my comment. Anyway thank you for this interesting digression. ☺️
@@andreamenta1317 I feel like calling this 9k is close enough, especially since 9k isn't formally defined. This is way better than a company like Pimax calling 2x 4k screens 8k.
Hi, did not read the comments, so my apologies if it's been pointed out. the step from FHD to 4K is 4 times not 2 times, as you pointed it out. Same goes between 4K and 8K.
Hi, I just ordered the printer, and rewatching your video you made a great point on resin, and you convinced me. But before spending 60€ for 1kg of resin, I'd really like to know what would be the advantages compared to something like anycubic's ABS-Like v2 water washable, that sells at 30-36€ which is almost the half.
Great review. Thanks! Quick question: How does the Mars 4 9K compare to the Saturn 3 Ultra 12K? If I only care about printquality and don’t need speed, wi-fi transfer and so on, is it then worth it to pay twice as much for a saturn 3 or is the Mars 4 perfectly fine? Thanks.
The Saturn 3 12k has a higher resolution but on a bigger screen. The Mars 4 9k can produce a bit sharper prints, so if you don't plan to print big stuff you should go for the cheaper and bit sharper Mars 4.
@@FauxHammer thanks for the reply! to be honest its going to be my first resin printer. i'm very experienced with fdm printing, but resin stuff is a whole lot different thing for me, i'm currently researching about the safety side of it. main concern being the VOCs emmited by it and how to get rid of them effectively
Also, on resin. I found that the phrozen 8’k being the best around. Is there a positive aspect to pouring the resin over the back of the plate when filling the vat? Or is it just aesthetic for production?😊
Phrozen 8k is the best fir detail, but it’s brittle. I print minis and fir that application, it’s useless And no, there’s no positive aspect to it. Just looks better on cam
New to this whole thing. Appreciate your in depth explanations. Currently on sale for $209 USD and think it to good of a deal to pass up. My 11 year old son has recently been trying out 3d modeling and miniature painting so seems like a no brainer.
So on the topic of why buy a cheap resin for the mars 4, frankly for me personally, I am just getting into SLA printing from FDM. Learning as much as I can from cheaper items before using more expensive items is just a good way to learn. Having done something similar with home cooking, I can say for me at least this is a very effective method of learning for me. Side note: mars 4 was on sale, mars 3 was not. also I appreciate the video its very informative! Cheers from Mississippi! :P
You're parroting what the video says but he's wrong, 2560 is QHD, not 2k. 2k is generally used in film and just means "roughly 2000 horizontal pixels", generally 2040.
If only I were there to see how hard you scoffed, crossed your arms and tipped your fedora after you posted this. Is it true you muttered "heh... we did it reddit..."?
@gregatron2299 I have the Mono 2 and M5s, there's nothing really important on there, just some test prints. The thumb drives they bundle in are junk, at least the rest of their machines are generally good.
@@Gregatron13 email me and I’ll email you all the files. First thing I do with every printer I’ve touched is make a local copy. Nothing you’ll need, but if you want them
I'm planning on buying my first resin printer this year. Although this would mean I, as a beginner, should maybe stick to such an entry level machine, I am really not planning on getting another printer soon. Meaning I really need to think about what I want before I get the opportunity to have a look at prints. The options for me are now either the Mars 4 Ultra or the Saturn 3 Ultra, both with an extra tank with PFA film. The main differences would be print area / volume and the pixel size. It is easy to see the size difference without the printer, but I cannot imagine the quality difference of those printers. Would you please upload a direct comparison of their prints, possibly as a short. This would be really helpful, thank you in advance. And by the way I really like your reviews, they nicely show the strengths and weaknesses of each machine. The only improvable thing would be the print quality comparison. Since you upload many printer reviews you might want to consider taking the same picture of the same model with the same light source for every review. This would really advance any printer comparison since now a direct comparison is not given although you often show similar pictures / videos next to each other.
I am interested in the very same thing! I've been watching endless reviews trying to figure out how these two truly compare in quality. I'm upgrading from a Mars 1, so it'll be a big step up and I don't upgrade often, may as well go for the best, but I also need the quality to be top notch with as faint voxel lines as possible because the bare print itself will be the finished product. I'd think obviously the mars 9K will technically be higher quality, but is the dfference perceptible or negligible? If imperceptible I'd probably go for the saturn as the build volume will be useful. It would put my mind at ease to see a direct comparison between the mars 9K and Saturn 3. Thank you Fauxhammer for your great and thorough reviews, they are invaluable!
The thing to keep in mind is that the detail differences can’t be seen by naked eye usually, I’ve found on mine that pictures magnify so much that what looks like a flaw isn’t noticeable when on a table.
@@hamiltonb6802 I've heard that often and I think the Saturn 3 (Ultra) will definitely have a very nice print, but when looking at Vogman's prints and rings, I feel like every bit might still be really helpful to get the details right. Nonetheless I still need to see a direct comparison to give this thought any support.
After more than 1 years thinking in buying a 3D printer I just bought the Mars 4 9K. It has a reasonable prize and came with a 50% discount with the Mercury Plus.
@@FauxHammer I was afraid of being paralyzed forever waiting the ideal moment, since I started my research, I've seen passing plenty of Best Printer for entry..... "Best" 2021 printer, 2022, 2023....I almost had decided to buy this Holidays the Mars 3 Pro 4K but I though that for 60€ more, I could aim for this newer model. Planning printing Old World miniatures, 40K minis, Blood Bowl teams, some vehicles, Bits for kitbashing... Maybe In future I can move into bigger print in terms of size or quality, but at the moment I feel more comfortable with Mars size.
Hi Ross, Excellent review like all your videos, thanks for sharing your experience. Regarding the WARGAMER resin, are there plans for it to be purchased in the USA?
Thanks for the video. I am still a little confused. The Mars 4 and Mars 4 Ultra have a better pixel resolution than the Saturn 3 / Ultra. But still the Saturn 3 makes the better quality as i understood in the review of the Saturn 3 ? i want the best quality possible. i don't care about the size and the speed. i just print small figures. I would probably buy the Mars 4 Ultra and replace the acf film. For some reason the Saturn 3 Ultra is the only printer that makes good quality with ACF acording to your review right? When quality is the most important thing, which one should i buy ?
At this point the Saturn 3 Ultra loosk like the best option of Elegoo's whole offer. Not just the quality but all the extras that make the printing less cumbersome. (For example the 4 point build plate fixture instead of this ball joint one...) If it wouldn't be tied to chitu I would buy one too, but as you are already looking for an Elegoo printer it obviously doesn't bother you.
So the “XK” name comes from the cinema industry. HD comes from the TV industry. Full HD is close to 2k but not the same Quad hd or 2550x 1440p is not 2k it’s 4x 720p roughly. The 4k name came in when the uhd products came in. Again 4k is close to UHD which is 3860 but not exactly the same. Elagoo is wrong to name it 9k but it seems to be the standard now to match the cinema industry standard with the display standard :shrug:
Hi, thanks for the information about this printer. I bougth the same two months ago and everything was going relatively well, until one day the printing ramdomly stopped. The touch screen show a meesage that says "u disk has been disconnected and printing has stopped". At firts, I didnt think about it too much, I just continue to print without any issues but, in the last couple of days, the problem appear again and again. I´ve lost like 4 prints, I´ve tried to change the file but it still happens. I dont know if the problem is related to the USB, the slicer, the size or something else. If you could help with this or if there´s anyone who knows something about it, I would appreciate it so much.
Thanks for the concise review! In a prior video you suggested the mars 4 max to be the ultimate beginner printer. Would you recommend this one over the max or a 3 (pro) for a beginner?
I know I’m late to this, but I got the mats 4 max for Christmas last year, and I LOVE it. It was (and still is) my first 3D printer. It has been a great machine and I cannot complain.
If you can tell the difference between the 18 micron pixels on a 8520x4320 screen and the 17 micron pixels on a hypothetical 9000x4564 screen, you may be a CZcams printer reviewer. 😂
Honestly 35 microns and lower basically looks the same to me. Sure under 4x zoom you might see a tad more detail in certain angles and lighting conditions at 18 microns vs 35 microns, but considering every printer I've seen struggles to print structures smaller than 100 microns I think it might also be a mild placebo effect if people claim to see any real differences. Light uniformity and resin type probably plays a bigger role in print quality than pixel size under 50 microns.
@@agentcee688 it does to everyone 35 is equivalent to the limit in PPI that the human eye can see. Now because these are videos nkt pixels you have an extra dimension to consider, which essentially doubles what the eye can make out because you can see depth too. But at 18 micron. Assuming you print in layer lines that high. You should nit be able to see a layer or Voxel line. I haven’t tested it yet.
I am considering to have mars 4 and i am gonna probably use anycubic's water washable resin. (Due to IPA smells) Can i use the 18 micron potential of the printer by using this resin? In my country mars 4 costs 280 dollars and mars 3 pro costs 210 dollars recently. Also i wonder if frensel lens affects final print or not. (Because mars 3 pro has fresnel lens but mars 4 not.)
The chart is wrong, but the value is correct. Missing pixels aren't just the missing x times missing y. As a super simple example 2x2 -> 1x1 you are 1 short on x and 1 short on 1, but you are missing 3 pixels, not 1. The total missing is (missing x * actual y) + (missing y * actual x) + (missing x * missing y)
hey, i could use a hand here (total noob, in process of buying one of those resin printers); im looking for resin printer that is suitable for printing tabletop minis (nothing wild in size. at least not yet :P) and terrain. my plan is minis up to 28mm and minis terrain down to 6mm (1/300 scale ), which would be best? i have no allegiance to any of companies, so any input appreciated. btw; great explanation in recent video ;)
Ross, I've had nothing but issues with this printer... I'm actually on my second one that will not successfully print a thing. I've spoken with Elegoo and have tried new resins, new resin settings, and the pre-programmed settings. The print will typically fail at about 1.0 to 1.8 mm but I have had some success and had the rook print to almost 11mm before it too started adhering to the ACF film. Do you or your chat have any recommendations or suggestions for me?
I do troubleshooting on my patreon. But if you are getting this g sticking to the ACf not the plate, then the first issues are that your base exposure times are too low or too high Or it’s too cold where your printing, or you haven’t shook your resin
But AA on the Saturn 3 Ultra does work when using .goo, It's only on the Satun 3 and it's only some of them. There is a different firmware shipped with different units.
Sure man, It probably does now as I said there would be an update. But it didn't for me or the guy from Snarky Arts. But In my current experience using .goo, I've had issues that aren;t present with .ctb. All hats off to Elegoo from trying to get out from under Chitu Systems by making their own stuff, but it's still new, not matured yet. Just trying to help people avoid potential issues. Not seen a fix for the egregious file sizes yet though. Many of which from the Saturn will not even fit on the USB drive they give you with it!
@@FauxHammer Yeah it's an interesting format. These printers maybe needed another month in dev to workout the bugs. You tested AA on the 3 and Ultra and it didn't work? Also did you notice the strange speed limits on the Ultra. Either using .goo or .CTB regardless of slicer? The S3U won't let you go slower then 120mm/m with a top speed it will let you do of 500mm/m
Compared to other printers this one looks kinda cheap when it comes to the build. I also found this with AC Being the a phrozen fan boy I haven’t found anything built better What is you opinion on this?
I agree, Phrozen are typically better in build quality. Is it worth the extra premium? That’s rrally up to the buyer. It’s my choice if I would make it, but it’s hard for me to relate now that I get the free.
Not luck of the draw on the ball joints more like process of the user. Never had a ball joint from Elegoo randomly slip. I currently have 17 Elegoo printers using the ball joint system. And thousands of prints using them. I have had to relevel them 3 times total all due to either screen replacement (2) or dropped my plate (1). I generally like your videos, but you really push your opinion on this and even use counter logic to say see the premium model has 4 point so it must be better, but then go on to say things like ACF is being switched to on premium models and that's just a bad thing. Make up your mind if premium models have a certain feature it either must be better or it's just due to peer pressure. Can't use the same statement both ways.
Hey I've been watching a lot of your videos recently because I want to get into resin printing but I'm still having a hard time deciding on what the best resin printer would be for me. I'm looking into doing minis and a few bigger statues like the princess mononoke one you made or even the tenjin bust. What would you recommend under the $700 usd price range for that.
Hello, great video I am about to start in the jewelry business and and I am having a hard time deciding on what printer I should buy , I would be making ring, earrings and hiphop styled diamond pendants what printer would you recommend me to start with thank you in advance
I'm so confused. You said in your Mars Ultra video that the prints were not as sharp as you would have liked due to the acf film. Now you are saying that the Mars Ultra prints are sharper. Which is it exactly
The Mini 8k has a better User Experience and UI. Also sharper prints which I now rate higher than pixel density. This has an air filter that pretty much does nothing. Buy the one that feels best to you
So should i change the film on the elegoo mats 4 ultra to get better prints. How do i transfer the files thru wifi cause its not working on chitubox at all.
You’ll get prints that don’t have crosshatch lines on the surface when swapping to PFA from ACF, depending how big the things are that you print, this may or may not matter to you. When you slice a file in Chitubox. You will need above the save button a Network Send button 8f not, get the latest version of Chitubox. In the network send option it should see your printer. If not you have a. Network issue of some kind. Check all the connections and settings on the printer and your Pc. Could be firewall or antivirus issue
That's something you'll learn if you watch enough of my videos. It's kinda become a rite of passage that when you know, you know. But don't worry, you aren't missing out by not doing that.
Does anybody know if the AA issues are solved? No one seems to talk about it any more and asking around everybody shrugs and just says "it is good quality even without AA" (which to me is odd, because still working AA would be better)... with the Saturn 3 (or so i heard) it was solved but some say it depends on the machine and only works from a certain serial number onwards, some say it came with a firmware update. This is all kinda sus and makes me a bit nervous to be honest (even considering sending the Mars back when it arrives and go with a Sonic 8k s instead)
Hey! Just saw your video and rly need to ask, to the community if I rly grasp so much the thing. Atm I have a old Photon S mini whit rgb and I want to buy a better machine who dosent need 8s to cure for each layer. I saw the mars 4 max, a big plate, good maybe even too much, on the maximum price I could afford atm. Then I saw the mars 4 but in video you give the message "it's a little a waste if you use standard resin" and atm I'm using this kind of resin, the standard elegoo grey. My print is on 1/10 scale you know the anime craneling/ banpresto, quite big and some 1/144 - 1/100 scale weapon/accessories for gunpla. So quite far away from 28mm. Not too picky whit quality, the photon S actually deliver me pretty good result whit wargame Miniatures, slow but if I archive a ok result I'm happy. Would be a waste to aim at a 18uM pixel resolution or is a welcome addition and just both(three) of them are actually very good product?
Regardless of your scale, it’s the details on your parts that matters more and the Voxel lines you surely want rid of. Either the Mars 4 or the Max should be fine for your scale. The Mars 4 can give smoother pieces without enabling AA. But when I compare the sharpness, honestly, these 2 devices seem on par. Using cheaper resins, I bet you’d never see the difference between these printers. As for your resin. If you use basic resins they will not reach as much. You’ll get parts but the accuracy of the details you get will not be as much as they can be with other resins. So deciding between these is less about what you want now, but more about what you may want in the future assuming you one day change your resin. If you are fixed in your resin you use now and just want faster cure times. You’ll get that here and you’ll improve print quality a decent bit too
@@FauxHammer I recall the same thing being done to another printer a couple of years agoclaiming a printer was 12K but it turned out to be just over 8K.
@@FauxHammer It depends on how it's implemented. If the horizontal resolution is more than 15000 pixels, it's 16k by (silly) definition. For a a common 16:9 display resolution, it would be 15360x8640, though an ultrawide 16k would be 15360x6582 for example, but technically it could be anywhere in the 15xxx resolution. Anyway! Enough about resolution. I've been looking at resin 3d printers for a while, but I'm not sure which one to get. My goal would be to print scale figures (1/6 to 1/10 scale) in assemblable parts. I feel like the Mars 3 Pro wil be hard to beat at 157 euros, or would you suggest spending extra for a lager plate and go for the Saturn 2 or even 3? Print quality will be top priority as the prints are purely for display purposes.
@@MrFlayFox Honestly, for action figures, you won't see a difference in detail between any of those. but yeah you may be better off with a Mars 4 max or Saturn 8k. Saturn 2 if you can stretch to it. You'll be surprised how quick you'll wish you had a bigger build plate.
@@FauxHammer Awesome, thanks for your quick answer! I'd be willing to stretch to the Saturn 3 12k but seeing as you don't even mention it, I double it's noticable. I think I'll look into the Saturn 8k or Saturn 2. Thanks a ton! :)
the build plate is so stupid on this thing, the 4 bolt system has got to be cheaper to manufacture and it feels like a real apple move to continue to use this ball and socket type.... otherwise i'm enjoying it as an upgrade to my photon mono which is still going strong but is really not up to wargame miniature printing like this beast is... and elegoo's scraper is the same one i got with my anycubic so i dunno why everyone is so jazzed over it lol...
The Anycubic range has been promising AA for as long as I can remember. Still having issues getting the cam working on the phrozen 8k also. They sell you dreams!
Thanks for the review, so I'm a little confused, at the moment does this mean that anti-aliasing doesn't work on either the Mars 4 9K Ultra or is it just the standard Mars 4 9K since it is an issue with the format? And I take it this issue is the same regardless of whether chitu, lychee or voxeldance tango is used?
It’s not the Marses, it’s the .GOO format, so long as you save as .CTB you’ll be fine. Maybe you can save in this format using lychee, but historically lychee has had some issues with AA I with the Ultra you send via WiFi which does let you choose .ctb as a format
Isn't the whole point of the "k" scale that it maintains a 16:9 aspect ratio for displays? Not all that important for a printer. It's a dumb way of measuring 3d printers.
Well if the printer display ration is 16:9 like this one is. It should be ok. But it doesn’t work here. You are right, I wish they’d never started advertising this k lark.
@@FauxHammer Yeah it's basically the megapixel war all over again, they just like having a simple number for advertising. Probably because better resolution is a smaller number and there's some marketing rule that bigger is better It almost makes sense for visual displays as the bigger the screen the further you will sit away from it, but it's nonsense for an application where the only thing that matters is pixel size.
Not really. The k scale is just approximately how many pixels are on the x-axis. Officially there are a bunch of 4k resolutions ranging from 4096 × 2160 to 3840 × 2160 I'd say calling this 9k is pretty accurate, way better than Pimax VR calling two 4k screens 8k.
@@FauxHammer Pixel size in micron + printing area in square cm would be much more informative than the horizontal resolution of the screen only. Diagonal size with different aspect ratios is misleading too, not to mention it tells you about the glass size only not the actual pixelated area.
hi, i'm looking to get a resin printer to print lens sculptures, so i need the surfaces to be as smooth as possible for the lens to come out as close to clear as possible. should i go for the ultra or this? i've never done resin printing, so i don't know whether the ultra would be better for me or not. I'd like to sand as little as possible, so i thought the pixel sizes are the most important. but maybe the fresnel lens is better? also, could you do a video on the highest resolution clear resins? thanks!
So pixel size in mor important if you want a clear sculpt. And yes the Mars 4 or ultra have the same pixel density. With the ultra, the ACF will add some grain to your prints. But after swapping PlACF film tk PFa film, both lrinters product the same results. The ultra then just has a better UI, better levelling and WiFi. That’s it… is that worth the price difference for what you’re doing? Your call really. When wanting ultra clear prints, this is the closes you will get to smooth directly off the plate after a clean. But it will still be a tad frosty. You either need to re,clear coat to fill the voids left by any pixels or layers. Or sand smooth. But marginally less sanding in this than any other printer.
Buy the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351051&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Buy the Elegoo Mars 4 Here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351049&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
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This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Ross needs a San Disk sponsorship at this point.😁
So true
Sand disk where are you
I had a massive work project requiring 10gig+ image files on USB drives, sandisk proved quite unreliable, Kingston was worse, what I found was 2 general things, the more you spend the more reliable, and look for metal cases not plastic, heat dissipation really helps.
Printers are fully released and elegoo doesn’t even have the base firmware on the site. I’ve had problems in the beginning when my printer was bricked because a wrongly formatted usb was inserted. Anyway you see it, the machine is very capable but was not ready to be released and that is insulting to the customer.
Some minor corrections on the resolution argument, HD is 720p, 1080p is FullHD.
4k is not "double HD" is 4 times FullHD, because it is the number of pixels that matters, not only the single axis resolution.
The same goes for the other resolutions, with some adjustments for mid values (2K is also known as QHD, because it's 4 times HD).
Thank you for saying it, so I didnt have to, as that is why I came to say.
Correction 2k isn't QHD. 4K is not called 4k because it's 4x 1080p. 4k comes from cinema standards and it refers to the horizontal pixel count. Full 4k is 4096x2160, 3840x2160 is close enough so the name stuck. Full 2k is 2048x1080 which would make 1080p 2k following the same logic. Calling 1440p 2k is just marketing nonsense.
@@xForseen Yup, I knew that 4k came from cinema, but I thought that this reference also stuck for the aforementioned proportion.
Interesting to know that it's mostly marketing.
For the 2k I referenced it cause it was used in the video; I usually use QHD to reference that pixel combination and I thought they were interchangeable.
Overall the point was that the relative proportions mentioned in the video were not correct, that is the reason for my comment.
Anyway thank you for this interesting digression. ☺️
@@andreamenta1317 I feel like calling this 9k is close enough, especially since 9k isn't formally defined. This is way better than a company like Pimax calling 2x 4k screens 8k.
Hi, did not read the comments, so my apologies if it's been pointed out. the step from FHD to 4K is 4 times not 2 times, as you pointed it out. Same goes between 4K and 8K.
Thanks for the review! I was wondering if Anti Aliasing already work on the .goo files nowadays?
Here to find out the same.
In the process of buying one. But want small precise prints.
Hi,
I just ordered the printer, and rewatching your video you made a great point on resin, and you convinced me.
But before spending 60€ for 1kg of resin, I'd really like to know what would be the advantages compared to something like anycubic's ABS-Like v2 water washable, that sells at 30-36€ which is almost the half.
Great review. Thanks!
Quick question: How does the Mars 4 9K compare to the Saturn 3 Ultra 12K? If I only care about printquality and don’t need speed, wi-fi transfer and so on, is it then worth it to pay twice as much for a saturn 3 or is the Mars 4 perfectly fine?
Thanks.
Saturn has a bigger build plate. and is 12k. ultra has more features idk...i got the saturn 3...
The Saturn 3 12k has a higher resolution but on a bigger screen. The Mars 4 9k can produce a bit sharper prints, so if you don't plan to print big stuff you should go for the cheaper and bit sharper Mars 4.
I bought this printer a while ago, it should arrive in 3-4 days, i'm really hyped about it
It’s a bloody good one.
@@FauxHammer thanks for the reply! to be honest its going to be my first resin printer. i'm very experienced with fdm printing, but resin stuff is a whole lot different thing for me, i'm currently researching about the safety side of it. main concern being the VOCs emmited by it and how to get rid of them effectively
Also, on resin. I found that the phrozen 8’k being the best around.
Is there a positive aspect to pouring the resin over the back of the plate when filling the vat? Or is it just aesthetic for production?😊
Phrozen 8k is the best fir detail, but it’s brittle. I print minis and fir that application, it’s useless
And no, there’s no positive aspect to it. Just looks better on cam
CTB works on the M4U, so I'm pretty sure it would also work for the M4.
maybe he didn't update FW to latest
New to this whole thing. Appreciate your in depth explanations. Currently on sale for $209 USD and think it to good of a deal to pass up. My 11 year old son has recently been trying out 3d modeling and miniature painting so seems like a no brainer.
So on the topic of why buy a cheap resin for the mars 4, frankly for me personally, I am just getting into SLA printing from FDM. Learning as much as I can from cheaper items before using more expensive items is just a good way to learn.
Having done something similar with home cooking, I can say for me at least this is a very effective method of learning for me.
Side note: mars 4 was on sale, mars 3 was not. also I appreciate the video its very informative! Cheers from Mississippi! :P
... 9k is the horizontal pixels 8.5k pixels are 9k. 1920 2k, 3840 is 4k and prhozen 8k is 7.6k pixels. You are the one thats wrong.
Except 1920 isn't 2k, 2560 is somehow 2k.
You're parroting what the video says but he's wrong, 2560 is QHD, not 2k. 2k is generally used in film and just means "roughly 2000 horizontal pixels", generally 2040.
3840 isn’t 4k. It’s 3k
If only I were there to see how hard you scoffed, crossed your arms and tipped your fedora after you posted this. Is it true you muttered "heh... we did it reddit..."?
Thanks now I'm extra glad I pounced on the $170 flash sale on the Anycubic Mono 2 🤘😎
damn, that's an insane price!
@@FauxHammer Yeah except I just got it and the usb doesn't work. I hope there was nothing important on it...
@gregatron2299 I have the Mono 2 and M5s, there's nothing really important on there, just some test prints. The thumb drives they bundle in are junk, at least the rest of their machines are generally good.
@@agentcee688 yeah I found online what file type it takes so it is printing a test right now.
@@Gregatron13 email me and I’ll email you all the files. First thing I do with every printer I’ve touched is make a local copy.
Nothing you’ll need, but if you want them
I'm planning on buying my first resin printer this year. Although this would mean I, as a beginner, should maybe stick to such an entry level machine, I am really not planning on getting another printer soon. Meaning I really need to think about what I want before I get the opportunity to have a look at prints. The options for me are now either the Mars 4 Ultra or the Saturn 3 Ultra, both with an extra tank with PFA film. The main differences would be print area / volume and the pixel size. It is easy to see the size difference without the printer, but I cannot imagine the quality difference of those printers. Would you please upload a direct comparison of their prints, possibly as a short. This would be really helpful, thank you in advance.
And by the way I really like your reviews, they nicely show the strengths and weaknesses of each machine. The only improvable thing would be the print quality comparison. Since you upload many printer reviews you might want to consider taking the same picture of the same model with the same light source for every review. This would really advance any printer comparison since now a direct comparison is not given although you often show similar pictures / videos next to each other.
I am interested in the very same thing! I've been watching endless reviews trying to figure out how these two truly compare in quality. I'm upgrading from a Mars 1, so it'll be a big step up and I don't upgrade often, may as well go for the best, but I also need the quality to be top notch with as faint voxel lines as possible because the bare print itself will be the finished product. I'd think obviously the mars 9K will technically be higher quality, but is the dfference perceptible or negligible? If imperceptible I'd probably go for the saturn as the build volume will be useful. It would put my mind at ease to see a direct comparison between the mars 9K and Saturn 3. Thank you Fauxhammer for your great and thorough reviews, they are invaluable!
The thing to keep in mind is that the detail differences can’t be seen by naked eye usually, I’ve found on mine that pictures magnify so much that what looks like a flaw isn’t noticeable when on a table.
@@hamiltonb6802yes thats marketing
@@hamiltonb6802 I've heard that often and I think the Saturn 3 (Ultra) will definitely have a very nice print, but when looking at Vogman's prints and rings, I feel like every bit might still be really helpful to get the details right. Nonetheless I still need to see a direct comparison to give this thought any support.
Anything but Anycubic brother. I won a phrozen 8k and it’s the best machine I’ve worked with
After more than 1 years thinking in buying a 3D printer I just bought the Mars 4 9K. It has a reasonable prize and came with a 50% discount with the Mercury Plus.
Greatr printer, nice price too!
@@FauxHammer I was afraid of being paralyzed forever waiting the ideal moment, since I started my research, I've seen passing plenty of Best Printer for entry..... "Best" 2021 printer, 2022, 2023....I almost had decided to buy this Holidays the Mars 3 Pro 4K but I though that for 60€ more, I could aim for this newer model. Planning printing Old World miniatures, 40K minis, Blood Bowl teams, some vehicles, Bits for kitbashing... Maybe In future I can move into bigger print in terms of size or quality, but at the moment I feel more comfortable with Mars size.
Hi Ross, Excellent review like all your videos, thanks for sharing your experience. Regarding the WARGAMER resin, are there plans for it to be purchased in the USA?
Thanks, we are working on it, it's only been out a couple of months and the demand is insane
Thanks for the video. I am still a little confused. The Mars 4 and Mars 4 Ultra have a better pixel resolution than the Saturn 3 / Ultra. But still the Saturn 3 makes the better quality as i understood in the review of the Saturn 3 ? i want the best quality possible. i don't care about the size and the speed. i just print small figures. I would probably buy the Mars 4 Ultra and replace the acf film. For some reason the Saturn 3 Ultra is the only printer that makes good quality with ACF acording to your review right? When quality is the most important thing, which one should i buy ?
At this point the Saturn 3 Ultra loosk like the best option of Elegoo's whole offer. Not just the quality but all the extras that make the printing less cumbersome. (For example the 4 point build plate fixture instead of this ball joint one...) If it wouldn't be tied to chitu I would buy one too, but as you are already looking for an Elegoo printer it obviously doesn't bother you.
The 4 ultra have the same 4 point build plate fixture system.
Would you recommend the Mars 3 Pro over the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 if they are roughly the same price?
Easily.
Saturn 3 / Saturn 3 Ultra seems to be the best option to me for the bed size . Vehicles and Hy Wpn Teams , unless another big change coming
nothing major coming in terms of resolution
I have this printer and it is EXCELLENT!
wow, this was one of my first reviews, and yeah, I still recommend this, even now.
Waited for your review and still can't deside 😂 but great Video as always ✌️
So the “XK” name comes from the cinema industry. HD comes from the TV industry. Full HD is close to 2k but not the same
Quad hd or 2550x 1440p is not 2k it’s 4x 720p roughly.
The 4k name came in when the uhd products came in. Again 4k is close to UHD which is 3860 but not exactly the same. Elagoo is wrong to name it 9k but it seems to be the standard now to match the cinema industry standard with the display standard :shrug:
Hi, thanks for the information about this printer. I bougth the same two months ago and everything was going relatively well, until one day the printing ramdomly stopped. The touch screen show a meesage that says "u disk has been disconnected and printing has stopped". At firts, I didnt think about it too much, I just continue to print without any issues but, in the last couple of days, the problem appear again and again. I´ve lost like 4 prints, I´ve tried to change the file but it still happens. I dont know if the problem is related to the USB, the slicer, the size or something else. If you could help with this or if there´s anyone who knows something about it, I would appreciate it so much.
Did you fixed it? Planning on buying one.
All of your pixel math is wrong. 2k is 2x 4k is 4x 8k is 8x. If you double the horizontal and vertical the resolution is quadrupled.
Thanks for the concise review!
In a prior video you suggested the mars 4 max to be the ultimate beginner printer. Would you recommend this one over the max or a 3 (pro) for a beginner?
Mars 2 is the best printer, mars 2 pro> mars 3 pro > mars 3
4 max is on another thier, if you can, go get the 4 max or the original saturn.
I know I’m late to this, but I got the mats 4 max for Christmas last year, and I LOVE it. It was (and still is) my first 3D printer. It has been a great machine and I cannot complain.
"Because....NO!"
I died! 😂
Thank you for the review and information on this product!
Elegoo Mars 4 9k or the Anycubic Photon Mono 2? Please advice me. Thanks a lot.
Just got mine, but no firmware update as of yet :(
If you can tell the difference between the 18 micron pixels on a 8520x4320 screen and the 17 micron pixels on a hypothetical 9000x4564 screen, you may be a CZcams printer reviewer. 😂
Well, I'd be happy with 8640x4860, But this comment made me chuckle, thank you.
Honestly 35 microns and lower basically looks the same to me. Sure under 4x zoom you might see a tad more detail in certain angles and lighting conditions at 18 microns vs 35 microns, but considering every printer I've seen struggles to print structures smaller than 100 microns I think it might also be a mild placebo effect if people claim to see any real differences. Light uniformity and resin type probably plays a bigger role in print quality than pixel size under 50 microns.
@@agentcee688 it does to everyone 35 is equivalent to the limit in PPI that the human eye can see. Now because these are videos nkt pixels you have an extra dimension to consider, which essentially doubles what the eye can make out because you can see depth too.
But at 18 micron. Assuming you print in layer lines that high. You should nit be able to see a layer or Voxel line.
I haven’t tested it yet.
Thanks!
I am considering to have mars 4 and i am gonna probably use anycubic's water washable resin. (Due to IPA smells) Can i use the 18 micron potential of the printer by using this resin? In my country mars 4 costs 280 dollars and mars 3 pro costs 210 dollars recently. Also i wonder if frensel lens affects final print or not. (Because mars 3 pro has fresnel lens but mars 4 not.)
hi there seems to to something wrong with your charts (multiplication is wrong)(120*580=64800) .... please do correct me if I'm wrong
The chart is wrong, but the value is correct. Missing pixels aren't just the missing x times missing y. As a super simple example 2x2 -> 1x1 you are 1 short on x and 1 short on 1, but you are missing 3 pixels, not 1. The total missing is (missing x * actual y) + (missing y * actual x) + (missing x * missing y)
I just got the Mars 4, and I'm getting the same issue with Chitubox and those horizontal lines that connect pieces. I had to use a different slicer.
what slicer?
is there a place in United States to buy that resin? I want it!
we are trying to get it to you ASAP,
The Mars count is off the charts!
hey, i could use a hand here (total noob, in process of buying one of those resin printers); im looking for resin printer that is suitable for printing tabletop minis (nothing wild in size. at least not yet :P) and terrain. my plan is minis up to 28mm and minis terrain down to 6mm (1/300 scale ), which would be best? i have no allegiance to any of companies, so any input appreciated. btw; great explanation in recent video ;)
Ross, I've had nothing but issues with this printer... I'm actually on my second one that will not successfully print a thing. I've spoken with Elegoo and have tried new resins, new resin settings, and the pre-programmed settings. The print will typically fail at about 1.0 to 1.8 mm but I have had some success and had the rook print to almost 11mm before it too started adhering to the ACF film. Do you or your chat have any recommendations or suggestions for me?
I do troubleshooting on my patreon.
But if you are getting this g sticking to the ACf not the plate, then the first issues are that your base exposure times are too low or too high
Or it’s too cold where your printing, or you haven’t shook your resin
send these to just vlad. he has the best printing videos to date.
Send what?
But AA on the Saturn 3 Ultra does work when using .goo, It's only on the Satun 3 and it's only some of them. There is a different firmware shipped with different units.
Sure man, It probably does now as I said there would be an update. But it didn't for me or the guy from Snarky Arts. But In my current experience using .goo, I've had issues that aren;t present with .ctb.
All hats off to Elegoo from trying to get out from under Chitu Systems by making their own stuff, but it's still new, not matured yet. Just trying to help people avoid potential issues.
Not seen a fix for the egregious file sizes yet though. Many of which from the Saturn will not even fit on the USB drive they give you with it!
@@FauxHammer Yeah it's an interesting format. These printers maybe needed another month in dev to workout the bugs.
You tested AA on the 3 and Ultra and it didn't work?
Also did you notice the strange speed limits on the Ultra. Either using .goo or .CTB regardless of slicer?
The S3U won't let you go slower then 120mm/m with a top speed it will let you do of 500mm/m
I wish they made a 16k Saturn with a 12 inch screen. That is over 1000 pixels per inch.
We all do
Wait an over sea company lying to customers? That is impossible. This video is a total cash grab. Do not watch. 😉
Keep them coming
You wanna see how many dislikes I’ve had on this already!
@@FauxHammerI actually would but unfortunately, CZcams took them away from public view in order to protect and to make the "president's" ego bigger.
@@FauxHammer rumour has it there's a whole 50-cent army of downvoters...
Compared to other printers this one looks kinda cheap when it comes to the build. I also found this with AC
Being the a phrozen fan boy I haven’t found anything built better
What is you opinion on this?
I agree, Phrozen are typically better in build quality. Is it worth the extra premium? That’s rrally up to the buyer.
It’s my choice if I would make it, but it’s hard for me to relate now that I get the free.
Not luck of the draw on the ball joints more like process of the user. Never had a ball joint from Elegoo randomly slip. I currently have 17 Elegoo printers using the ball joint system. And thousands of prints using them. I have had to relevel them 3 times total all due to either screen replacement (2) or dropped my plate (1). I generally like your videos, but you really push your opinion on this and even use counter logic to say see the premium model has 4 point so it must be better, but then go on to say things like ACF is being switched to on premium models and that's just a bad thing. Make up your mind if premium models have a certain feature it either must be better or it's just due to peer pressure. Can't use the same statement both ways.
Hey I've been watching a lot of your videos recently because I want to get into resin printing but I'm still having a hard time deciding on what the best resin printer would be for me. I'm looking into doing minis and a few bigger statues like the princess mononoke one you made or even the tenjin bust. What would you recommend under the $700 usd price range for that.
Saturn 3 ultra is my top pick in that range.
I have a video too to summarise
Meant to say coming soon
Thanks cant wait to start getting into printing!@@FauxHammer
Hello, great video I am about to start in the jewelry business and and I am having a hard time deciding on what printer I should buy , I would be making ring, earrings and hiphop styled diamond pendants what printer would you recommend me to start with thank you in advance
Are you ok to hold off until my video on Tuesday which will answer this question?
@@FauxHammer yes most definitely looking forward to it. Thank you for the prompt response!
Is there already a guide how to replace ACF on Mars 4 Ultra?. Mine printer it's on its way to me, but I already think about replacing the FEP
Guide? Just look for how to replace FEP there are hundreds, you’ll figure it out easily enough
I'm so confused. You said in your Mars Ultra video that the prints were not as sharp as you would have liked due to the acf film. Now you are saying that the Mars Ultra prints are sharper. Which is it exactly
When you use PFA film, the ultra could be a bit sharper. Though I do g see it. Tomorrows video is a comparison of the two
What about mars 4 max?
By the way, thanks for amazing videos👍🏼
thanks a lot, you can see the mars 4 max video here czcams.com/video/QrlQTne3c0g/video.htmlsi=kE1sJ3lH67vapdI_
😁 I guess I need to start making more AA videos.
How do anonymous alcoholics come into the picture? 😜
Would you recommend getting the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k S for 280, or this for $309?
The Mini 8k has a better User Experience and UI. Also sharper prints which I now rate higher than pixel density. This has an air filter that pretty much does nothing. Buy the one that feels best to you
should i get the mars 3 pro or the mars 4 9K? its only a 30$ difference where i am
Did you see my comparison video?
Did they ever fix the antialiasing
When is wargamer coming to the US?!
As soon as we can find someone to manage logistics - we are working on it
Hi, which one should i get? Mars 4 max or saturn 2?
I’d get the Saturn 2
So should i change the film on the elegoo mats 4 ultra to get better prints. How do i transfer the files thru wifi cause its not working on chitubox at all.
You’ll get prints that don’t have crosshatch lines on the surface when swapping to PFA from ACF, depending how big the things are that you print, this may or may not matter to you.
When you slice a file in Chitubox. You will need above the save button a Network Send button
8f not, get the latest version of Chitubox.
In the network send option it should see your printer. If not you have a. Network issue of some kind. Check all the connections and settings on the printer and your Pc. Could be firewall or antivirus issue
Has the AA issue been sorted out?
Quick question, why pour the resin over the print bed?
That's something you'll learn if you watch enough of my videos. It's kinda become a rite of passage that when you know, you know.
But don't worry, you aren't missing out by not doing that.
It simply looks good on video.
did the anti alising get fixed?
Does anybody know if the AA issues are solved? No one seems to talk about it any more and asking around everybody shrugs and just says "it is good quality even without AA" (which to me is odd, because still working AA would be better)... with the Saturn 3 (or so i heard) it was solved but some say it depends on the machine and only works from a certain serial number onwards, some say it came with a firmware update. This is all kinda sus and makes me a bit nervous to be honest (even considering sending the Mars back when it arrives and go with a Sonic 8k s instead)
Never had any issues to begin with
I dont think it's fixed, probably not as my Mars 2 with AA seems to get smoother parts.. tempted to send mine back but its been 2 weeks now
Hey! Just saw your video and rly need to ask, to the community if I rly grasp so much the thing.
Atm I have a old Photon S mini whit rgb and I want to buy a better machine who dosent need 8s to cure for each layer.
I saw the mars 4 max, a big plate, good maybe even too much, on the maximum price I could afford atm. Then I saw the mars 4 but in video you give the message "it's a little a waste if you use standard resin" and atm I'm using this kind of resin, the standard elegoo grey. My print is on 1/10 scale you know the anime craneling/ banpresto, quite big and some 1/144 - 1/100 scale weapon/accessories for gunpla. So quite far away from 28mm. Not too picky whit quality, the photon S actually deliver me pretty good result whit wargame Miniatures, slow but if I archive a ok result I'm happy.
Would be a waste to aim at a 18uM pixel resolution or is a welcome addition and just both(three) of them are actually very good product?
Regardless of your scale, it’s the details on your parts that matters more and the Voxel lines you surely want rid of.
Either the Mars 4 or the Max should be fine for your scale. The Mars 4 can give smoother pieces without enabling AA. But when I compare the sharpness, honestly, these 2 devices seem on par. Using cheaper resins, I bet you’d never see the difference between these printers.
As for your resin. If you use basic resins they will not reach as much. You’ll get parts but the accuracy of the details you get will not be as much as they can be with other resins.
So deciding between these is less about what you want now, but more about what you may want in the future assuming you one day change your resin.
If you are fixed in your resin you use now and just want faster cure times. You’ll get that here and you’ll improve print quality a decent bit too
Have you got a link to them USB 32gb can't see in description?
Sorry forgot to add it, price has gone backup, but still a bargain amzn.to/3ZxobJr
Was this screen aspect ratio trick done with an 8K printer also resulting in something that want 8K
pardon?
@@FauxHammer I recall the same thing being done to another printer a couple of years agoclaiming a printer was 12K but it turned out to be just over 8K.
Wait now you're praising the Mars 4 Ultra in this video? I'm so confused.
I was never down on the Mars 4 ultra, just the ACF, it makes no sense to give us a high-resolution printer and then ruin it with that film
9k (or any [x]k) represents the resolution on it's longest edge, rounded up. 2k is mismarketed to be 2560, becasue like you said, marketing buzzwords.
It is to a point. But it’s all about 4K really. When you get to 16k or 8x hd, that’s actually less than 15k
@@FauxHammer It depends on how it's implemented. If the horizontal resolution is more than 15000 pixels, it's 16k by (silly) definition. For a a common 16:9 display resolution, it would be 15360x8640, though an ultrawide 16k would be 15360x6582 for example, but technically it could be anywhere in the 15xxx resolution.
Anyway! Enough about resolution. I've been looking at resin 3d printers for a while, but I'm not sure which one to get. My goal would be to print scale figures (1/6 to 1/10 scale) in assemblable parts. I feel like the Mars 3 Pro wil be hard to beat at 157 euros, or would you suggest spending extra for a lager plate and go for the Saturn 2 or even 3?
Print quality will be top priority as the prints are purely for display purposes.
@@MrFlayFox Honestly, for action figures, you won't see a difference in detail between any of those. but yeah you may be better off with a Mars 4 max or Saturn 8k. Saturn 2 if you can stretch to it.
You'll be surprised how quick you'll wish you had a bigger build plate.
@@FauxHammer Awesome, thanks for your quick answer! I'd be willing to stretch to the Saturn 3 12k but seeing as you don't even mention it, I double it's noticable. I think I'll look into the Saturn 8k or Saturn 2. Thanks a ton! :)
@@MrFlayFox It is sharper than those. but I feel you'd be spending more than you needed to.
am I blind? can't see the link for the USB memory sticks ?
Sorry, here it is amzn.to/3ZxobJr
They still haven't fixed AA? Wtf Elegoo
Still?
@@FauxHammerwell this issue was showcased before as .goo issue
They need to just avertise them by pixel size and build size. Life would be easier for everyone.
Right!!!!!!
They did 19um! That the ranking.
Does anyone know if anti aliasing has been fixed yet?
I don’t think it has.
@@FauxHammer What do I do? lowkey feels like I got screwed over especially with the release of the M5 ultra .-.
the build plate is so stupid on this thing, the 4 bolt system has got to be cheaper to manufacture and it feels like a real apple move to continue to use this ball and socket type.... otherwise i'm enjoying it as an upgrade to my photon mono which is still going strong but is really not up to wargame miniature printing like this beast is... and elegoo's scraper is the same one i got with my anycubic so i dunno why everyone is so jazzed over it lol...
I always get cheap wooden handles scrapers with my Anycubics
How can they send printers out for review without functional anti aliasing?
Mate, they can have printers in general sale for months without significant features working.
It’s actually quite common
The Anycubic range has been promising AA for as long as I can remember.
Still having issues getting the cam working on the phrozen 8k also.
They sell you dreams!
@@jackaustin4197 so true
Thanks for the review, so I'm a little confused, at the moment does this mean that anti-aliasing doesn't work on either the Mars 4 9K Ultra or is it just the standard Mars 4 9K since it is an issue with the format? And I take it this issue is the same regardless of whether chitu, lychee or voxeldance tango is used?
It’s not the Marses, it’s the .GOO format, so long as you save as .CTB you’ll be fine. Maybe you can save in this format using lychee, but historically lychee has had some issues with AA
I with the Ultra you send via WiFi which does let you choose .ctb as a format
@@FauxHammer ah good to know it would work using wi-fi. This will be my first printer so learning the ropes still
Did Elegoo fix the anti aliasing issue?
nope!
Isn't the whole point of the "k" scale that it maintains a 16:9 aspect ratio for displays? Not all that important for a printer. It's a dumb way of measuring 3d printers.
Well if the printer display ration is 16:9 like this one is. It should be ok.
But it doesn’t work here.
You are right, I wish they’d never started advertising this k lark.
@@FauxHammer Yeah it's basically the megapixel war all over again, they just like having a simple number for advertising. Probably because better resolution is a smaller number and there's some marketing rule that bigger is better
It almost makes sense for visual displays as the bigger the screen the further you will sit away from it, but it's nonsense for an application where the only thing that matters is pixel size.
@@snypa338338 it’s exactly that, and I’ve made it my mission to scream “noooooo”. With every opportunity I get
Not really. The k scale is just approximately how many pixels are on the x-axis. Officially there are a bunch of 4k resolutions ranging from 4096 × 2160 to 3840 × 2160
I'd say calling this 9k is pretty accurate, way better than Pimax VR calling two 4k screens 8k.
I don't want to get into mathematical calculations, but are you suggesting the correct name for the printer should be something like 8.5436K? 😎
Exactly that! or just stop with the BS K lark altogether
@@FauxHammer Pixel size in micron + printing area in square cm would be much more informative than the horizontal resolution of the screen only. Diagonal size with different aspect ratios is misleading too, not to mention it tells you about the glass size only not the actual pixelated area.
For the algorithm!!!
Cool
Thanks
hi,
i'm looking to get a resin printer to print lens sculptures, so i need the surfaces to be as smooth as possible for the lens to come out as close to clear as possible. should i go for the ultra or this?
i've never done resin printing, so i don't know whether the ultra would be better for me or not.
I'd like to sand as little as possible, so i thought the pixel sizes are the most important. but maybe the fresnel lens is better?
also, could you do a video on the highest resolution clear resins?
thanks!
So pixel size in mor important if you want a clear sculpt. And yes the Mars 4 or ultra have the same pixel density.
With the ultra, the ACF will add some grain to your prints. But after swapping PlACF film tk PFa film, both lrinters product the same results.
The ultra then just has a better UI, better levelling and WiFi. That’s it… is that worth the price difference for what you’re doing? Your call really.
When wanting ultra clear prints, this is the closes you will get to smooth directly off the plate after a clean. But it will still be a tad frosty. You either need to re,clear coat to fill the voids left by any pixels or layers. Or sand smooth. But marginally less sanding in this than any other printer.
Here before 100k.
Mars is a red planet, red cover...Mars
What about the Mars 4 Ultra?
Did you lvl the bed with the vat and NOT with the leveling card ?
Always
What printer do you suggest for vehicle size minis?
saturn 3 or saturn 3 ultra is great for that