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89 Cherokee 4.0L Piston Slap & Replacement
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- čas přidán 8. 01. 2016
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" KM2s
This is actually a 4.6L Stroker build which uses aftermarket pistons, but the process is exactly the same for the stock 4.0L. The engine started knocking after 700 miles so it was time to tear it down and fix it.
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I know this is several years old but I thoroughly enjoyed the testing/diagnosing aspect of the first video. Kudo's
Never too old.
I'm a Mechanic, that was an awesome informative video! Thank you, for explaining every detail, most people watch videos that only show parts of this procedure, then they have no idea how to finish it! Great job!
Just a suggestion, use a short length of 3/8 hose over the rod studs, doesn’t leave any glue mess on the threads!
Did you replace all if the rings?
Thank you good idea
I am sorry for your jeep problems and taking so long to find the source but on the plus side it made for great video so thank you for that.
Wish I had seen this video 2 years ago. Had the exact sound on my 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l, unfortunately it was misdiagnosed and then the unthinkable. The engine died. Put a used one in now its starting again. This time I'm prepared thanks to you. Fantastic job explaining and diagnosing the issue. Wish all mechanics had your dogged determination.
Keep up the great work.
First responding to a CZcams video ever.
Did anyone else notice that the connecting rod was seized to the piston? They were not moving freely and independent from each other, also the piston end of the connecting rod is discolored, meaning it got REALLY hot. This was likely lubrication failure at the wrist pin/con-rod connection point. When they seized together, it started torqueing the piston inside the cylinder forcing the piston to start grinding into the cylinder wall. And since aluminum is much softer than steel, you see most of the wear on the piston, not the cylinder wall.
This is a total bummer dude :(
Jeep 4.0 piston pins are an interference fit on the con rod. The discoloration is normal from heating the small end of the rod to fit over the pin during assembly.
@@bedlamite42My 01 XJ was purchased from 3rd owner in 2019 with 187K. Heard low end knock at idle, bought it anyway. Had Jeep dealer pull oil pan and was told bearings good, and noise was coming from 2 loose/worn wrist pins. Sounds good while driving and made 3 cross country trips, at 204K now. At 195K or so had camshaft, lifters, rods, timing chain replacement at a different Jeep Dealership in Maine. Then ran it to North Dakota just fine. My 93 XJ ran great for 26 years with hardly a problem at all. Sold it at 199K and bought the 01. Long live the XJ 😊.
Hey Bud, great videos to a fix!!!! My 2000 Grand is lifted 2.5 and I couldn't imagine going through what you went through! In my younger years yea but not in my 60's. Thanks for keeping your head and demonstrating how to be methodical and persistent!
These are old videos by youtube standards but this is really really good mechanic and education stuff thanks for sharing
The problem was your wrist pin, not enough clearance when installed, or oil starved. you can see the discoloration on the connecting rod and it seems to be chipped. It forced the piston into the cylinder, and, well, you see the results...
the rod is discolored from heating it to install press fit wrist pins. But I agree, the piston/wrist pin clearance seems tight.
wow... I was wheeling and heard Something let go... only slight unusual sound .... thought it was something to do with the lifters .. but after hearing your engine... I think I have the same issue... When the Motor is Cold it is very loud slap, but once it warms up it only Slaps when I'm underload.... yep makes sense now... Awesome vid and thanks... Ive driven about 100km with this noise Hope I haven't cuased to much damage.
Thanks a lot for the idea of changing the piston while leave the block in the Cherokee. Saved me time and money. Good instructions.
Dude that's awesome, you need a beer man.
Great idea taping the piston rod stud to prevent scratching the crankshaft -- scratches on the cranshaft lead to noise & needing a new crank!
Sooooo much information. By far the best Jeep engine vid on CZcams. Trust me, I've watched them all. Haha. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for posting this video. I been working on my Jeep for weeks trying to figure out where the noise was coming from. As soon as I heard yours run you solved my problem. My Jeep is making the exact same sound.
Mine too... was it piston slap???
Good job man-- I love the sound of a running engine after you've had it half apart.
Some one told me the 1998-2006 4.0L have thinner pistons that won't go 200K miles, they being a former Tractor mechanic put 1991 Pistons rods and crank I think into a 2002 and have ran it 20K miles so far. I had a 1997 Cherokee Sport 4.0L that went 398K before what we were told was a WRIST PIN but now I think it just needed new pistons
Good video. Good job. Would have liked to see the honing.
That’s a badass valve cover
If you have an extra deep well socket the size of that back head bolt you can cut it down to shorter than a deep well but longer than a regular socket. Then you won't bust your knuckles. Nice work by the way!
I have thought about doing that, just never got around to it.
If you decide to just don't do what i did and cut up your only deep well of that size. If you do you will need it 5 minuets later. Trust me.
snap on makes intermediate sockets that length.. im sure they wont a fortune for them, milwuakees new sockets have flats on the outside so you can throw a wrench on them in tight spots, i have 3 sets of cheapo mastercraft sockets and one good set from westward so i have no issue cutting into a mastercraft socket hahah
Thanks for sharing. Had the exact same noise and broken piston in the #6 cylinder.
I'm not a Jeep man but I have 45 years experience as a mechanic just wanted to drop some info, check your rod for a oiling hole in the rod near the rod bolt , some 6 cylinders had a hole in the rod to squirt oil on the piston skirts , don't know if yours has the hole, but keep it in mind if it happens again, hole could be clogged up.
Great in depth vids! I got a 98 Jeep Cherokee Classic with up country suspension option, only owner. Did upgrade to 3" lift kit with new shocks recently though. My first vehicle I ever bought brand new and drove it off the show room floor after I ordered it with the options.
Within the last week over the holidays, a noise developed and found your video and others as well. But your's was the best at explaining the piston slap noise that resembled exactly my engine noise, and same location. All though I ride, I'd rather not ride in the winter if don't have to freeze, so I gotta resort to taking Jeep in to dealer and have them fix the issue. Hopefully they can fix it quick with only a rent a car for a day or so. Thanks for your detailed vids!
Glad my vids help, hope they can take care of you quick!
This video definitely help I found the piston skirt in my oil pan
@Ricky Barber well it was knocking when I bought it I was a sucker and bought it anyways since it was $500 bucks I sent it to the ketchup redline and I heard a snap and a pop. I just swap it out with a ls engine (5.3)
I have the same noise in my XJ 99 , you save my time, thanks , I am going to fix it soon
Had a 96 Cherokee for 8 years, piston slap was there, but more typically the quiet low knock. Just bought a 95 GC, and the sound is there as well. Low end knocking. Yours was the loudest I have ever heard. I have often wondered if the short piston skirts contribute to what may be inherent wandering of the piston as it moves up and down, absorbing all the tolerance stack-up and making noise as a result. With all the 4 liters doing this, I'm assuming because they normally don't suffer for it.
I’m so happy you fixed it Bro I’m going to have to do the same thing
Cherokee's here are still fairly plentiful and cheap.. so I am planning on just buying a parts Jeep and pulling the engine and rebuilding it in my free time.. so when/if my 4.0L ever starts acting up I can do a little swaparoo.
Im planning to do this on my 4.3 vortec. Very informative and useful info for any diyer
I just had this exact thing happen after installing my stroker. About 10 miles after installing it. I was thinking maybe it was a spun bearing till I pulled it back out to investigate. I had .014 ring gap on that piston. Sad to see a brand new ic945 ruined..
I’m having this same problem and just watching all the effort, time, and dedication that goes into this my head is spinning 😂 I’m just hoping it’s only one piston
I seriously learn a lot in this video my car has a piston slap and I thought there was no hope this video just gave me hope to fix my car
Great video! I've been searching for a week trying to figure out this noise. Watched this video last night, pulled the head today and it was a very slight piston slap. Nothing a little honing and new rings won't fix. Solid video. Keep it up.
When you're honing the cylinder how did you keep the crank from getting so dirty
But if six cylinder wasn't getting enough oil did you change the oil sending unit
I think my Jeep was having this same issue and now it doesn’t turn on. :(
Awesome video . Lots of information . Keep it up . Now I can go fix my daughters Jeep 😊
I defiantly learned more about the 4.0 while watching this video
1500 mile motor I had the same thing just happen. Same cylinder too look exactly like yours did.. my wrist pin was almost seized to the pison
All fixed. Sounds and runs great again. Only took 5 hours to put the whole thing back together.
nice job, as loud as it was i was thinking wrist pin from the start. a quality repair you performed for sure.
And the valve cover looks like a million bucks. Nice job.
Glad the um.... Rebiuld... Worked out for you
Couldn’t of asked for anything else thanks man! Keep it 100
Great that you take the time to post this shit for all us knuckleheads
Awesome Nick!!! I'm glad you got it sorted. It sounds great!! Can't wait to build my 4.6
What was the problem with the oil flow then?
great video ! Did your machine shop guys also hone the cylinders ? What piston size did you use after honing ? Thanks !
Just FYI you can use rubber hose on the studs when removing and installing the pistons instead of duct tape they seem to stay in place better. Anyway great video I might be doing this same job here soon.
i also have an 89 XJ and have the exact same sound i believe you just saved my ass sir thank you.
+Michael Laverty This was a freshly rebuilt engine, only had 600 miles on it. Friend overheated it, wrist pin seized up, scored piston skirt. New piston assembly installed and she's been running strong for 6,000 miles now. Hi volume oil pumps are just asking for trouble, heard more bad than good, mine is fine.
So, you changed from a high volume oil pump, to a regular oil pump? Just asking cuz you said it might've been an oil control problem?
Mine has the exact same noise. Is Piston replacement doable on my own? I am SO over spending money at aa shop.
This entire video shows you how to replace a piston, so that is your call if you think you can do this. I wouldn't call it difficult, but it's time consuming since the head has to come off. Only thing I had the engine guy so is mount the new piston to the rod, install the rings, and tap it in. I bolted it all back up and it worked fine.
Just finished the video. Didn’t look to bad. I’ve definitely done as hard or harder work. The shop the Jeep is at right now (getting re geared) is pretty confident that it is a rod bearing but hearing what my Jeep sounds like sounds like piston slap. Would you mind checking out the video I posted on my account to see what you think? (If it sounds similar to yours) thanks!
Another point to note- mine got rebuilt just likes yours did at 158,000 miles. Had about 3k on the clock when it started ticking
Sounds
Like
A
Problem
He stole my work coat.
So why was it not getting oil to that one piston is what im wondering
Hey man i just want to thank you for your display of knowledge. Great work
A piece of rubber hose on the rod bolts is also a good way to protect the crank and they won't fall off.
What was done to recondition the bore? In most cases a failure like this means pulling the engine and reboring it.
Piston slaps cylinder, cylinder gets destroyed. This was a temporary repair I'm guessing.
This was a newly built engine when the slap started to occur. The bore was barely scored, seemed the piston took most of the damage. It's been running strong for over 15k miles since this rebuild.
Nice job.....can I ask....did the tapping get any less when the engine was fully warmed up.
Great video. Thank you for all the great details. I have the same issue. I may bring mine to the shop.
What caused this to happen?
You replaced what was damaged from what seems to be lack of oil but what caused the lack of oil?
Yes it would have been nice to know why that piston burned
ha ha ha....i am laughing, because the sighs are very similar to the way i take on projects with vehicles. LOL, its like jump in, complain, undo this undo that, complain, maybe even cuss a little here, take more stuff off or apart, few more sighs. Your true blue human ! At least you have your experience that you can fall back on and your not totally in the dark. Great Video ! "NO MORE NOISE ! YES SIRE EEE ! SWEET BABY JESUS ! "
It sucks but, I removed the cylinder head off my 01 Jeep wrangler just to drill out a broken stud due to an annoying exhaust leak. WORTH IT.
+iron duke Do what you have to, better than exhaust fumes
I use a deep socket with an external hex on the top outside. Then i use a horizontal extension/crowsfoot and calculate the difference,, works good in lots of places like that rear bolt.
That’s quite the job to do in the truck, wow. Kudos
Love the copper look. Thanks for the video.
Great video! I particularly enjoyed the proper use of profanity - being a South Jersey boy meself. I think it's the Finn ancestry.......lol.
South jersey too. My 92 has had that noise since I bought it at 202xxx and it has 220xxx on it now. Fuck it ill run it till it blows. Never given me an issue so it doesn't bother me.
Hey bro how did your tech fix the block was there a special tool to sand it down? Sorry I don't know much about machining blocks.
+Fili Ainuu Since the scratches were mostly just on the surface, my tech used a cylinder hone on a drill to just polish up the surface before piston install.
Amazing job. What would a job like this normally cost? Thanks.
Excellent -thanks for sharing first class "shade tree" repairs ! It's wonderful that AMC left enough room around the engine bay to do this without pulling the engine. But it's even more amazing that AMC's early '60's design is still relevant 53 years later! BTW, How did you solve the exhaust leak that was present at the end of the lifter replacement presentation?
I just cranked down the manifold bolts a little tighter and it was fine
I know this is a stupid question but how did you move the piston in the motor im about to open up my motor for the first time ever in my life first timer here
Awesome video sir. You are freaking awesome. Thank you.
Great job. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida
Thanks for the video. Suggestion when it comes to the socket. Can we just buy a deep socket and then grind or cut it to the best length?
Great info. This may be the problem with my 93 cherokee. Thanks for the video
Did it get fixed?? Pancho.
is the head cracked at #6 ? you do nice work. So that is what it is supposed to sound like. wow
Great video! Lots to learn from.....by the way, do you use it mostly off-road, how many miles on the engine? Thanks, peace
Man how the hell do you do it? I can hardly do minor work on my jeep with out completely breaking down.
+IDontAShitGive Lots of patients and the right tools. They go a long way.
If you have multiple vehicles to drive while you're working on one, that helps tremendously. It's easy to take your time and work on something when it can sit in a garage for a while.
IDontAShitGive . I owned a Chevy Lumina. A 1990 to be exact. That car was THE WORST to work on! I am thankful for my Jeep
for that rear head bolt? could you replace it to a non stud type or cut the upper threads off?? i have to pull my head on a 96 xj that had the distributor gear take out the gear on the cam.. just curious if that could be done. Love your Vids full of great info. Also cool that you're from NJ as well.
Don't see why not as long as its a proper Bolt. I'd probably just hack the top off 1 in the set
Wow, I'm impressed.
I have a fresh 4.0 rebuild and this exact thing just happened to me, same piston, same scoring. Question for you, was the engine guy able to hone the cylinder from the top without dropping the crank? That's the point I'm at and trying to figure out what to do.
Good lookin out, I’m looking at an 89 cj tapping, clean, guy wants 3500.119 k good deal? Never had a Jeep
Really kind of high 3500 bucks, especially 5 yrs ago. Even now, the blue book is only 2600 bucks. Nobody wants to pay more than that with an intact no rust body, as well. They do grab your wallet and never let go. LOVE MY XJ anyway, looking at a chipped piston and never seen this before so THANKS for the video.
3rd for me boss... these damn engines are freakin Greek Gods but damnit when they get pissed, they get pissed and takes it out on your wallet lol. This damn thing I swear.
my 99 jeep grand cherokee is making the same noise and driving it at 70 mph I heard something broke loose and a few days later that particular same noise . Do you think a piston broke loose?
The blueing is from heating the rod to accept the wrist pin
tech tip, put vaccum line on rod studs.
3 years later and now I'm having the same issue😆
there is a touch of McGyver in you. mirror to line it up. great
Super common issue with the 4.0. They even had a recall back then about it.i hope clean the cylinder out .. or you will be doing this again soon.
awesome man, you should make more videos of you just driving around. haha maybe a good old 0-60? love the vids bro!
Use a piece of fuel line rubber hose over the rod studs.
Hi, I know it's an old video but I've been watching your videos a lot lately. My Cherokee WJ had the same noise. I went straight to open the engine and found broken pistons 5 and 6 along with the rings. I replaced them with used ones but in good condition. new, connecting rod metals, I put everything back together and now it was heard worse and louder, any clues? The wall of the cilinder is fine, no piston play, lifters i don know ,bwcause a little play on rocker arms two or 3 pushers

How were the main and con rod bearings? They could have also been trashed causing the play.
My sweatshirt looks just like yours 🤣😂
Apart from the Slap, was the engine using Oil or smokey? Mine dosnt look like its using any engine oil, and not Smoking... So could it be a failed lifter??
Dieselcon Production This was a basically brand new engine. no signs of oil consumption of really anything besides the noise. a lifter tap will be a lot lighter then this, more like a tika tika
NickInTimeFilms yeah when at idle and warn it makes no noise.. only when underload or cold morning starts it sounds like yours.. Merry Christmas buddy
Dieselcon Production one ticks one knocks, you can take the valve cover off and wiggle the lifters by hand to be sure.
I was about to swap my engine over piston slap
Great video! Could you elaborate on whether or not you honed the cylinder? If so, how? Thank you in advance!
The engine guy just brought his flexi-hone and ran it on a drill for a few minutes to clean it up. Luckily that's all my engine needed before putting the new piston assembly in.
so looks like you removed the ac and put the alternator in its place how hard was that
Is it just me or does he sound like the guy from Daily Dose of Internet 😂
I’ll be pulling my pan off. soon on my 99.
Sounds like #2 or three slapping or rod bearing noise.
Noise definitely near crank under pan.
I have 280-k original miles on motor.
Knock is slight bit used to be only when cold and would go away but now gets quieter when warm bit still there under load when warm.
I have a 4.0 from a 1995 xj that I plan on building to have ready to put in if this 99 blows up or build the 95 and install it before my 99 blows up then build that one also.
I haven’t been able to get an answer anywhere whether or not the 95 motor will accept all my 99 accessories in the same alignment .
Hard to say. Id assume the blocks are similar from that era as far as mounting holes go. Might be worth looking up comparisons online of the different year ranges.
Bro those look like brand new pistons.... Why did it break...?
Was it only making noise after the engine warmed up or also when it was cold?
Yeah I noticed one of the other guys posted it yeah you did make a really great video on this they have this helped me out a lot I do appreciate it I dig your videos
Any chance you know what the intake and valve sting tension is supposed to be to check for weak valve springs?