This BMW Tried to KILL ME! (Random Stall...Part 1 - Labor Day Special)
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- čas přidán 1. 09. 2023
- Oh get the popcorn ready, it's time for the PHAD Labor Day MONEY PIT Special!
This 2007 BMW X5 V8 was towed from another shop with a very weird customer complaint: it randomly STALLS on the highway under load!! WHAT?
Before taking the German Beast for a test drive, we have to do quite a few things to make it ROAD-WORTHY. It has no Power Steering, and is low on coolant and oil....typical.
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Enjoy!
Ivan - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Ivan is the BMW guru. Poor Amanda. I am betting she won't go on another Beemer test drive.
I don't envy anyone owning any high-end luxury car beyond 10 years. The amount of modules and things that can and will go wrong are mind blowing. Major money pits.
A German car trying to kill a Russian mechanic..... unheard of 😂
That X5 was probably built in Spartanburg, SOUTH-CAROLINA, USA. So it's at least HALF American
@@jfv65 Good point.
😊😊😊😊
Statement of the year
But he's as American as me and George Washington right?
That's the last time the wife is going with you on a test drive Ivan😂😂😂.
Yeah, the last time she went up that mountain by herself and HER car broke down.
I'm very curious about these 2 different VIN numbers. Almost seems like a module close to the PCM has been changed and not properly programmed or coded or something.
In addition to a possible mismatched ECM and engine or improper calibration, I'm suspecting there's more rodent damage affecting a ground somewhere.
I could tell immediately that this was going to be a good one.
In my mind, the first problem to figure out is why it has 2 VIN numbers. A module has been replaced and not programmed.
I believe this can cause many other problems if a module is not configured correctly.
The second problem is to figure out the missing fluids. Good job on that one.
I guess the O2 sensor code was legit. 😂
Frankencar with 2 VINs 🙂 You only get bizarre stuff, Ivan - that's one of the reasons I love your videos 🙂 Even the weather works against you! This X5 didn't like that you were revealing its hidden secrets. Part 2 should be very interesting 🙂
As we haven't seen the codes yet, ( Waiting for part 2 ) I would think one place to start looking is the recently replaced module and other parts, remember New does Not always mean good. The Huge red flags are the Two VIN numbers and Auction car. Possibly not the original engine or possibly not original modules. Good luck. Look forward to part two.
Notice the ending of the VIN was the same. I smell data corruption rather than a module from another car.
@@russellhltn1396why does it pass self check though ...ecm fuel tables (ie atmospheric pressure ...load) could be corrupted though ...but system checksum should verify
1. Check the ECM modules. See why it's reporting two vins.
2. You may need to erase modules and rebuild them per person the actual vin
3. You may need to check all of the modules and verify each one
4. Since we saw mickey mouse clan were trying to move in. Recheck the harness
5. Always the basics. Powers and grounds.
6. Mickey's friend have been busy already
7. I suspect a wire or harness that has been eaten.
8. Heat related issues point to modules. Just like the old Ford Chevy truck of the past. Modules getting hot and shutting off the engine.
@@2nickles647 ...heat related though implies engine compartment
@@nickmalone3143 It could be a data collision on the bus, or something getting corrupted in the module. Just passing self-test is no guarantee it's good. Especially if the problem is triggered by heat.
-"it was so cheap, I couldn't resist" 😂😂
(I still see a 928 there) 😮
Oh the flood of warning massages! Brings back soooo many memories😮. Thise things should have two modules right next to each other, the main DME and a separate one that controls the Valvetronic. I have a feeling, thats where the two VINs come from
You would think the shop would have told you, by the way, it's pouring power steering fluid like crazy. Strange people.
They want it out of their shop and someone else’s problem - don’t want to risk people saying no!
Fly by night Auto repair
It's NOT pouring pwr str fluid when it's empty. 😂
@@davidgrisco1939 🤣
"Who doesn't love a fancy European SUV?" People that like reliable vehicles! lol Thanks Ivan!
What does he call those, "Big Money Wasted?"
I'm impressed with the range of makes and models you are willing to diagnose and repair. One of the most interesting CZcams diag channels! 👍
try diagnose dan too
@PHD - Experienced same issue a few times; last time with a '01 Range Rover - vehicle stalled only when ambient temp got in the 90s. Turned out to be a loose wire under/connected to the fuse box under the hood. Admittedly, after some firing of the parts cannon, I did what Dwayne from Real Fixes Real Fast suggested: on a hot day, run the vehicle - grab wire harnesses and start shaking 'em. Crazy as it sounds, it worked! Whenever I see one of his videos in my notifications, pertinent or not, I always give 'em a 'Like'. I can't wait to see part 2. K, had to return/edit - betcha that wasn't the only chewed-on rodent wire. Pull all engine plastic covering and look for signs of rodent nest and wires feeding the computers being chewed-on. So why didn't the last shop see that chewed-on wire hanging under the vehicle?
Gotta love the two VIN numbers. When it arrives low on fluids and pukes up what you add then fires a cannon blast of its own after multiple fixes that's a battle!
Where even does the second vin come from ...theres only one memory location in the ECM... is immobilizer shutting car down with unmatching vin on a module ?
@@nickmalone3143 My guess is a swapped module or computer is reporting its original vin info after reprogramming or never reprogrammed. The scanner is just reporting both.
The mountains of central PA are no joke, definitely not the the kind of place you want to stall out. Looking forward to part 2.
I can hear it now. Amanda " I told you we should have taken the horses."
Very neglected BMW as you stated. The 2 vin situation happens when a different light module or in this case the FRM gets swapped out with a used one. Normally this also throws on the manipulation dot on the dash which oddly enough yours wasn't lit up. The N62 is known to have ckp sensor issues and there was a bulletin to replace with updated part along with all 4 cmp's. The IVM's were also common to cause the dead vehicle condition but that would also keep it from cranking at all. Interesting one for sure, looking forward to part2.
My 2003 Elantra GT, bought new, stalled on the freeway a few years ago.
It was the bad MAP sensor. Ran fine cold and stalled after warm up. Yes, the money light was on but I was too busy to diag.
When I pulled the old sensor it was covered with blowby oil.
I made a DIY oil catch can and the new sensor has stayed clean.
Oil from the can is very little.
BMW electrical architecture is so convoluted. I was diagnosing a speedo not reading. It ran good and shifted fine, so the vehicle speed sensor was reading in the PID list. The instrument cluster was good, but no VSS signal getting to it. The VSS signal goes to the ABS module first and then to all other modules and programs that need it. ABS module fixed it.
With no clues of direction from codes as yet, sounds like either a terminal 15 supply dropping out, or heat soak on the crank sensor.
My God. You just described the exact symptoms a whole community of VW Eurovan's are experiencing. We have named it SDS (sudden death syndrome). Mechanics are useless here because it takes high quality diagnostics to discover the problems with no helpful codes. When it happened to me I absolutely came to the same conclusion that it was heat related because it fails and then fails in shorter and shorter intervals. The longer you let it sit, the longer you could drive. I thought it was load related too, but it wasn't. It was distance related, about 20 miles just like your case. When it happened the first time, no blown fuses but it was after an OEM fuel pump replacement. The new pump lasted for 600 miles. Happened again, this time blowing fuses. New fuel pump and seems OK but haven't gone the distance yet. The whole community will be watching part 2 very carefully!
Judging by the dodgy orings on the rack, maybe someone has had the front end apart and not terminated a major earth? Sounds a bit like a significant power or earth issue.
on many european cars, failure to ground can cause blown modules..
@@randy1izationyou would think module would have dedicate ground wire back to fuse box ...
some circuits are ground switched, so its hard to say....@@nickmalone3143
That X5 V8 is my son's dream car! He rented an X5 with the turbo 6 last year and absolutely loved it. But he wants to buy a house first.
Houses go up in value, BMWs do not haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics For sure! He is renting a home in LA county and he wants to buy it but it's expensive. He's Beyonce's recording/mixing engineer with 4 Grammys to his credit.
Amazing how a 10 cent O-ring can make the car undrivable
Very good case study . Got me thinking 🤔 … Looking forward part 2 !!
Ou must have 2 cars made into 1 lol be interesting to see the guru sort this one out. 😊😊😊
I enjoy summer storms as well thank you for sharing
Another great diagnostic video from PHAD. Thank you
My first guess would be:
The ECM overheats or there are some cracks on some solderjoints. The V8 probably adds alot of heat in the engine bay itself. If it acts up again, I'd use some cold spray on the computer to "restore" it back to operating temperature. When a Car glitches out when there are high temperatures at work, it has to be some computer/sensor stuff............probably :D
Put your cars outside that rainstorm is a free carwash LOL
I love when Ivan dukes it out against old Euro cars!
I would start with checking the modules that were replaced, making sure they're correct for the year qnd are correctly programmed, that double vin has me suspicious.
The code 2A6A Valvetronic actuator power supply seems like a place to start. If you could monitor that input during a test drive and see if the power drops out it could be a clue.
Happy you guys made it home safely...Look forward to part2. Growing up my parent car woudl usually overheat and stall out going thru the mountains of Arizona. Tey got rid of it immediately as it was a death trap..
Another great video Ivan. I'm going to sy something like MAF sensor or a Temp sensor.
The BMW VIN can be found on the driver's side's side's lower part of the windshield.
This is where you will find a BMW VIN without opening or even touching the car. Each BMW VIN is stamped on the frame in the engine bay, typically near the strut tower.
The BMW VIN can also be found on a sticker behind the rear license plate.
Stamped on the frame front passenger seat
Stamped on the trunk area
VIN on the body - Other like that two located in diagnostic ?
Sounds like the "Intermittent Buick" my wife had from 1986 to 1998.
If you have a record feature in your diagnostic tools that can be a big help!
On to part 2.
2 VIN are a huge red flag. I would start there. It will be a very interesting diagnosis.
Looking forward to A conclusive Part 2!
Ivan, I bet the next tine you want to go for a swim you will be going in your Wife's car and she will be driving! Looking forward to Part 2. Thanks for Sharing!
Ivan to start off there is 2 vin numbers that don't match which I think could affect the functionality of the vehicle as one module is a year newer than the other. This vehicle suffered from TLC
Oh boy! HOLIDAY SPECIAL TIME! As a E70 x5 owner I am all ears on this one. The v8’s are not a fun ownership ride. Holy smokes on this one…..gotta fix it so you can find the real problems. Oh the irony.
During the rain that Volvo looked like it was hiding from you behind that bush, It probably talked to the other volvo's you have worked on and it knows your going to back probe it!
what a pleasant door chime , not avraogating at all , were as GM door chimes drive me up the wall
Good morning, you stopped right when it was starting to get good, LOL
Well, check the data of course, and get the 4 channeler attached and go for a hot ride. Just a guess! 👍👍🇺🇸
make sure you dont have an issue with the alternator heating up and then its retrifier Dumping AC (Electrical noise) into the cars power systems . one would would think outright over or under voltage would set a code but AC being output by the alternator wont .. short of heating up the modules with a heat gun (within reason) to find the one that failing from heat , ECU - Or Ignition module , Engine position sensors .. put a recording scope on the alternator output is a thought . really grasping at straws , Had a mazda 323 that would just up and die on the highway like that,.the mass airflow sensor would build up a huge static charge then glitch out the whole system , its casing ground wire to the cars body was broken .
My gut is saying fuel pump. Will be really interesting diagnosis!
Prime candidate for cliff diving in my opinion.
YEAH, send it to Alaska for the next fourth of July car launch!!! What a turd this thing is.
Awesome!
I'm currently working on a 2011 X3, 2.8ix starter....
Nice repair on the power steering no one else bothered to repair or tell you about. Interesting that no one caught the oxygen sensor wire loom. Did anyone bother to do a physical look over of this BMW when they first had it? I reckon not so, the vehicle got put into the wrong shop on day one.
The loud backfire i find odd, in the 1st stall. Possible correlation issue then sensors go out... it hard stalls, i can't imagine too many things causing that. Ignition cut is what comes to mind. I didn't see the odd codes that were populated in the end. Scope coil signal, a cam sensor, crank sensor, & an injector? What heck of an experience, btw 🫣 glad to hear no one was hurt.😊
backfiring is almost always a timing issue.. maybe cam/crank sensor problems,, like a chewed wire.
@@randy1ization yeah. That's why I think a random correlation issue, when something heats up, or air gap changes... because mechanically, I wouldn't think timing would change, but a bad input or changed signal can cause spark or injector fire at the incorrect time. There must be enough clues in those codes that populated, which is why Ivan didn't show them. 🤔
Interesting, I assumed it would still run if either cam or crank signal was disconnected, and just have a code. I guess that is a poor assumption 🤔
going up hills may cause the engine to cock slightly, in relation to the suspension, and a wire is grounding to the chassis is my guess... or he is losing ground.. possible all that power steering fluid has a sensor goofed up as well.. wonder abt all of the fluid levels as well,,, suspect junkyard engine,,, I dont think the shop that sent it to Ivan did anything to the car,, just dumped it on him.,.,, made it his problem... low on all fluids, leaking like a stuck pig. they must buy the cars so cheap, they dont care abt the repair bill.... @@CubasAutomotive
@@jessicav2031 codes are only thrown when whatever the glitch or signal is distorted for an x amount in a preset determined amount of time. That's up to the programming of the vehicle.... not always printed in service info. It's why scopes are so valuable to the automotive repair industry.
This car is possessed. Currently, no other explanation fits.
Someone swapped a used module that happens to have the vin encoded in it and never reprogrammed it properly?
I dunno, i have a love/hate relationship with BMW....
While its doubtful the VTG service would cause a stall im surprised it didn't set a plethora of suspension warnings, I've done several services in the last month, very specific way to re set the maintenance monitor for that.
Thank you for the rain view😮
That dual VIN bothers me - a lot. The ending is the same, so I don't think it's a swapped module. More likely data corruption. I'm predicting that either something is messing up the bus, or there's a module that goes screwy when it gets hot. If you can find which module reported the wrong VIN, that would be a good start. Maybe heat it up to see if you can duplicate the problem in the garage.
maybe since its showing two separate vins it has a split personality
Here in Europe you can get that CHF 11S for like 13€ per litre as Comma oil or Febi product. Why in the hell it's so expensive in the states? 😀
He probably bought it locally. On like Rock Auto CHF11S is about $20/liter. Still pricey but way less than $40 obviously.
Wow, BMW sucks but, too many problems there. I would think it's the vslveronic issue. Sounds like it to me. Great interesting video Ivan!!
Just started watching. But that engine had a lot of timing chain issues.
man I wouldn't take work from that shop again. They never even looked at that car, they just called you and pawned it off on you.
2 things with this car.
The valvetronic worm drive tends to eat wires and look under the carpets, if it's wet or been wet then modules could be affected.
I'm sure DiagnosisDan is glad you don't call it Euro Trash. Just tell your customer, Bring Money Withyou. They will say, this car Broke My Wallet. 😂
The forums indicate that the stalling issue may be due to the engine wiring harness.
I have to say that I am often amazed that both you, Eric O, and Rainman do not check all fluids before starting a car, even to just drive it into the garage. There are slugs out there that will try to set you up to pay for a new engine. They teach you in the military to always check the fluids before you do anything else. Eric O had a lady bring in a Toyota that stalled at every stop sign. He went back to the shop, and found that It had like 3/4 of a quart of oil in it. I would be willing to bet that some people do not even know how to open the hood of their vehicle. 😢
I had a similar issue with an older car that had an electronic module on the side of the distributor, it had a cracked solder joint that heated up and lost contact, ran fine when cold.
It appears to my uneducated eye that this situation is being compounded by a dodgy engine or ECU swap. You may be chasing questionable connections and re-programming modules for a long time. The hard stall and backfire might indicate that whatever module controls the ignition is breaking down under heat. Heat can also break external connections. The DTCs may give some interesting clues.
I've used that same specialized BMW tool on my Volvos a few times.
joys N62 V8 Yep if not keep maintained - have one not cheap Coolant Transfer Pipe issues ,Alternator gasket. oil leaks from gasket to O rings. then valve steams seals. had mine done overhall when brought it so far just normal services and maintaince happy only have 4.4i version
Wow three hour tow $$$, bet it's cheaper than all the shop's it has visited with no results 🙃
Pretty fun.
Funny, the first thing I thought of is what is in the fuel tank, when the problem occurred going up a hill, and then stalling got more frequent, even when it was flat. That car was so neglected for service, I would expect water or other contaminants in the fuel tank.
BMW living up to its name...Broken Money Waster....LOL....friggin Hi Dollar JUNK to stay away from....good luck Ivan on this one
Ivan glad to hear you & your wife are ok asto that German money pit it sounds like the owner is one of those drive it until it stops & wonders why his money pit has done that (people who don't do or have maintance done.)Cheers waiting to find out whats wrong with it.
I once had a old ford that would die when i would speed up the motor at a light and going up hill , thought it was electrical , but it turned out to be that the front motor mount cracked , and when i would give it gas to speed up it would make the front of motor rise up in a angle putting pressure against the transaxle and make the car shut off every time , replaced mount problem solved .
Same (minus the bang) happened to me in my E70 35d.
It just stalled/shutdown on the highway.
As for you I finally got it home, but the engine shutdowns where frequently. Not fun at all.
For me, it turned out to be a faulty injector.
What would Labor Day be, with a video from PHAD! Also, the second you said "auction" I busted out laughing. Anyone who buys any BMW at auction is asking for it. I know from personal and miserable experience.
Fancy german Moneypitt 😮
Computer if its in the engine bay. When it heats up, that’s your issue Diagnose Dan did the same thing on his channel months ago.
This should be a good one. Can't wait to hear what the cause of this is.
We had a Volvo that would die like that, when it would get hot the ignition module would fail letting the FI to continue to dump fuel through the engine and then it would ignite in the converter. Sounded like someone firing a shot gun in the car. Sit beside the road for 20 min and off we could go again.
Heat, engine and leaking fluids, Hmm--- a lot to look at. I want to see more.
This sounds very similar to what my car was doing. I own a GM car and it was doing this too under load it stall out then again and again like 6 to 7 times. What fixed it for me was a faulty EVAP purge valve I guess it was stuck open allowing to much gas vapour into the engine stalling it out. Since I replaced that valve my cars been working good actually great for over a year now. I had no codes no engine light nothing the car would just stall out mostly under load like climbing hills.
I note the dual VIN could have been a replacement DME that is not correctly programmed? 🖖
I reckon that things been in an accident, did I spot salvage yard writing on the side of the engine? Airbag looks suspicious too, when they say it came from the auction was it co-part? 😂
Well that's painful. So you're probably losing some kind of power/ground, but only to the engine? By the way you described it doesn't sound like a fuel pump cut out. Too bad your scope only has four channels. Let's see, maybe you can scope...block ground, coil power, ECM power, and maybe there is an injection circuit? Bet you find a bunch of chewed wires.
Been wondering with the weather how many related problems are going to start showing up in videos
Maybe put some heat on the ECM or some of the other modules might be a heat related failure.
Fuzz from camshaft intermediate levers on camshaft sensor...
🤑
Cliffhanger!
How many of you feel like you are back in school when Ivan makes us exercise our brains? I know I flash back to shop class with one of my all-time favorite teachers, Mr. Lukin.
One of the modules is second hand module which is not programmed to this car. That's why it gives you two vin numbers.
Hi Ivan, can it be fuel related, fuel pump, fuel pressure?
Looking at how it was maintained, fuel filter?
With the backfire it seems it might be a timing issue. Has the engine oil level stabilized. I would check the battery strength and grounds. Wierd things happen if the battery output is on its last legs with so much electronic stuff going on.
I had a similar problem and came down to tapping on the ecm and it would shut down.
That sounds very scary
Sounds like the ignition dropped out and came back on with the injectors still firing. I'm old enough to have caused backfires by switching the ignition off (carbureted engine), patting the gas, and switching it on with my foot off the gas. Blew up a muffler that way once. Maybe the backfire is a clue? I'm at a loss on how you restart a stalled car while rolling if you don't have a key switch and with an automatic transmission, though. I'd panic! My 3 vehicles all have key ignition and manual transmission.
You would select neutral but yeah they require the brake pedal to crank so I do not know what it would do while rolling!
@@kevin9c1 You can apply the brakes while rolling without stopping.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610 Agreed. But I have noticed my Mercedes don't just require a light touch on the brake pedal (consistent with activating the brake light) to allow a crank. They require some actual brake pressure (enough to hold the car) before the starter will crank. While rolling I have no idea what they allow. It would be really awkward if I had to slow down moderately quickly just to get it to crank, or if they are more lenient with a rolling neutral crank. Only one way to find out I suppose.
wierd how bmw used o rings on the more expensive x5 when my lower end 2004 525d uses banjo bolts and actual crush washers to seal it