I was a framer for two years, it was back in the days before house wrap, I’m starting to plan for the building of a retirement/ hunting cabin, so I’ve been researching the new “best practices” . Out of the Dozen videos I’ve watched on window installations this is by far the most comprehensive video yet, with a great deal of effort put forth on your part, Thank you, you’ve helped to redeemed the value of you tube as an educational tool!
I just used the vycor yesterday and that stuff sticks very well. Its not cheap but its definitely a quality product. Just be careful not to stick it to itself or you'll never get it apart. Try sticking the top and then peel the backing paper off and you go down. DO NOT remove all the backing in one shot or you'll have a very hard time applying it exactly and smoothly which you're siding guys will appreciate. I must say most guys absolutely do not install windows this way because, as you can see, it's time consuming. However this is the absolute correct and most definitive way to be certain you don't get leaks and that install should last longer than the operating parts of the windows themselves. VERY VERY proper install!! Excellent explanation. This is coming from a 20yr plus contractor who does things the right way hence why i still watch videos to learn any new trucks possible. Theres always a better way to do things and don't allow arrogance to get in the way of quality progress.
Thank you. I am a homeowner and I just completed installing four windows exactly as you show. Although the Andersen instructions are identical (which is a good thing), your video gave me the confidence to do the job and know I was doing everything correctly.
We install in hurricane zones along the East Coast and no longer pull the house wrap back into the opening along the sides. Bringing the wrap back to the interior can channel water straight to the interior in the event that water leaks in behind the house wrap from areas above the windows (usually roof or soffit leaks). It's unlikely, but I've seen it happen over and over from water penetration above through improperly flashed soffits etc, especially in areas prone to high wind driven rains or hurricanes. The method shown in the video is still very common and effective- head and sill prep is spot on. The only thing I would suggest changing would be in regards to the house wrap along the sides. Cut the house wrap back 1-1/2" along the sides so the nailing fin can be adhered directly to the substrate along the head and sides. This will create a barrier to block any trapped water behind the house wrap. czcams.com/video/Q6cVnbUSK8Y/video.htmlsi=EI6k5iCotdcfDPLG
Rather than bringing your wrb all the way to the inside I cut it vertically halfway on the jack stud then terminate it with tyvek tape. This way if there is any point in the housewrap improperly installed where air is getting behind the housewrap it wont flow past that otherwise beautiful installation.
Can you make a vid showing all these procedures when using extruded sheet foam on top of the sheathing>>>.confused as how to insulate and use housewrap TOGETHER..THANKS
Great video. I wished I saw it before I had all the windows replaced by a "professional". His work was hack work compared to your great details. I had 25 year old Andersens taken out and his "recommendation" installed. I can still feel the wind around the new windows. Wanta hear about the sliding door? You can guess! Thanks for a nice job.
Doesn't applying the caulking at the joint between the vycor and the unit interfere with placement of any j channel? Shouldn't that be done by the siding installer so it's still flexible?
Jper Thank you for watching our installation video. We offer installation, and product review, courses throughout the year. You can sign up for our newsletter at www.shepleywood.com so you receive news about upcoming events at our locations.
Can you tell me if the spray foam canisters and guns are universal, or do you have to use a special gun for the Pur Black vs the regular poly foam? Thanks...
paul newton I thought so too at first and then realized that he didn’t caulk between the flange and the rough opening but instead where the flange is factory connected to the window unit to give it that extra seal.
Just an old school carpenter who hasn't been doing this for years. I just installed some 70 series from home depot. And after going about researching all these new installation processes. I've noticed no one is installing the flashing under the fin over the siding. Isn't that supposed to be the the first step on the window install? Or is this not necessary anymore? Seems funny with all those steps were not redirecting the water out away from the underlayment.
I have no experience working with stucco but I would use Andersen's barrier method install. Applying backer rod and sealant around all four sides of unit. This will keep any water from getting into sill area. This method is used when you have extreme exposure, Ocean front or lake front or wind areas.
Can I install Andersen A series double hung windows as Replacement windows? If we order it without the flanges, can we? if so, what are the precautions I must take?
is there a specific question you are looking to have answered? There are numerous replies to questions that have been posted about this video and we are always happy to give you a call if you need more details!
Vycor is a petroleum product, you can't put it over the Dupont flex tape, it ruins the Dupont over time. The petroleum eats the rubber, use Dupont flashing. You can go rubber over petroleum but not the other way around, ask Dupont if you don't believe me as a random guy on the internet
I've replaced doors before, now doing it for the first time for a window and I am shocked that you do not need to secure the unit from the interior side of the wall (through jambs into the studs. Is this intentional as to not disrupt the action from opening the window? You'd think they would just recess the areas where the unit could be fastened as to not disrupt the opening/closing action. Theoretically someone can remove the exterior trim, remove the window, then proceed to rob my house, then reinstall the window/trim. I would hope they at least reinstall prior to leaving, but that might be asking too much.
HOUSE WRAP DOES NOT COME INSIDE THE HOUSE. FLASHING TAPE MUST BE ROLLED WITH A J-ROLLER. USE "SEALANT" NOT CAULKING. DYNA-FLEX SEALANT. POOR WATER MANAGEMENT, DO NOT TRAP WATER ON THE BOTTOM SILL.
The idea with the roof nail is to keep the nail head flat to the flange without puckering / wrinkling the window flange but I do understand why a screw would be better to use especially for adjustments within RO. A helpful hint using roof nails to tack flange is to not drive nail completely. That will allow you the ability to remove if necessary.
I was a framer for two years, it was back in the days before house wrap, I’m starting to plan for the building of a retirement/ hunting cabin, so I’ve been researching the new “best practices” . Out of the Dozen videos I’ve watched on window installations this is by far the most comprehensive video yet, with a great deal of effort put forth on your part, Thank you, you’ve helped to redeemed the value of you tube as an educational tool!
This man is a pro. Every little detail is spot on. Watch the care he puts into getting the vycor tape perfect.
Outstanding tutorial! You're a real-deal, no short-cuts professional. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting.
I just used the vycor yesterday and that stuff sticks very well. Its not cheap but its definitely a quality product. Just be careful not to stick it to itself or you'll never get it apart. Try sticking the top and then peel the backing paper off and you go down. DO NOT remove all the backing in one shot or you'll have a very hard time applying it exactly and smoothly which you're siding guys will appreciate.
I must say most guys absolutely do not install windows this way because, as you can see, it's time consuming. However this is the absolute correct and most definitive way to be certain you don't get leaks and that install should last longer than the operating parts of the windows themselves.
VERY VERY proper install!! Excellent explanation. This is coming from a 20yr plus contractor who does things the right way hence why i still watch videos to learn any new trucks possible. Theres always a better way to do things and don't allow arrogance to get in the way of quality progress.
Thank you. I am a homeowner and I just completed installing four windows exactly as you show. Although the Andersen instructions are identical (which is a good thing), your video gave me the confidence to do the job and know I was doing everything correctly.
Tony would be an excellent trainer if he hasn’t been already! By far one of the most thorough Anderson Window videos I’ve watched!
Great video, most thorough I've seen!
Have to think like a raindrop. Great job. Most "carpenters" won't be taking the time to install like this.
Great video!
We install in hurricane zones along the East Coast and no longer pull the house wrap back into the opening along the sides. Bringing the wrap back to the interior can channel water straight to the interior in the event that water leaks in behind the house wrap from areas above the windows (usually roof or soffit leaks). It's unlikely, but I've seen it happen over and over from water penetration above through improperly flashed soffits etc, especially in areas prone to high wind driven rains or hurricanes. The method shown in the video is still very common and effective- head and sill prep is spot on. The only thing I would suggest changing would be in regards to the house wrap along the sides. Cut the house wrap back 1-1/2" along the sides so the nailing fin can be adhered directly to the substrate along the head and sides. This will create a barrier to block any trapped water behind the house wrap. czcams.com/video/Q6cVnbUSK8Y/video.htmlsi=EI6k5iCotdcfDPLG
Super helpful!
Awesome video dude !
Great vid! Thank You! DaveyJO
Thank you very much I got the right knowledge. Good tutorial.
Rather than bringing your wrb all the way to the inside I cut it vertically halfway on the jack stud then terminate it with tyvek tape. This way if there is any point in the housewrap improperly installed where air is getting behind the housewrap it wont flow past that otherwise beautiful installation.
“ Before we get stotted “ 😬Definitely Massachusetts
Can you make a vid showing all these procedures when using extruded sheet foam on top of the sheathing>>>.confused as how to insulate and use housewrap TOGETHER..THANKS
Great video. I wished I saw it before I had all the windows replaced by a "professional". His work was hack work compared to your great details. I had 25 year old Andersens taken out and his "recommendation" installed. I can still feel the wind around the new windows. Wanta hear about the sliding door? You can guess! Thanks for a nice job.
SO whats the answer when you use sheet foam with the house wrap....foam under or over the housewrap....demo would be great
Doesn't applying the caulking at the joint between the vycor and the unit interfere with placement of any j channel? Shouldn't that be done by the siding installer so it's still flexible?
I just stumbled upon this video and am very glad I did! Do you offer weekly/monthly installation/repair classes on various building materials? Thx
Jper Thank you for watching our installation video. We offer installation, and product review, courses throughout the year. You can sign up for our newsletter at www.shepleywood.com so you receive news about upcoming events at our locations.
Is it ok to leave the bottom flange unnailed so water doesn't have a way to get passed the flex wrap and house wrap?
Can you tell me if the spray foam canisters and guns are universal, or do you have to use a special gun for the Pur Black vs the regular poly foam?
Thanks...
+Don Williams
Don - you can use a foam applicator gun, which can be used with other foaming agents. There are many manufacturers that make these.
Make sure you check the window flange before you waste a bunch caulking. Materials and time is money.
I thought i noticed that you caulked the outside bottom seal, doesn't that stop water from having a way to escape.
paul newton I thought so too at first and then realized that he didn’t caulk between the flange and the rough opening but instead where the flange is factory connected to the window unit to give it that extra seal.
What is the difference between a barrier method and drip? Drip you leave the bottom of the window open so water can drain.
How do you do the tyvek when you have drywall inside? Also does the DuPont flexwrap sit flush with the inside framing
Wrap the tyvek to side of Jack stud and staple. You are correct the Dupont flexwrap should be flush with the inside framing.
Just an old school carpenter who hasn't been doing this for years. I just installed some 70 series from home depot. And after going about researching all these new installation processes. I've noticed no one is installing the flashing under the fin over the siding. Isn't that supposed to be the the first step on the window install? Or is this not necessary anymore? Seems funny with all those steps were not redirecting the water out away from the underlayment.
Charles Briggs where r u taking about exactly and what kind of flashing? Metal?
How do you keep the drain path open at the bottom sill when stucco is applied?
I have no experience working with stucco but I would use Andersen's barrier method install. Applying backer rod and sealant around all four sides of unit. This will keep any water from getting into sill area.
This method is used when you have extreme exposure, Ocean front or lake front or wind areas.
Can I install Andersen A series double hung windows as Replacement windows? If we order it without the flanges, can we? if so, what are the precautions I must take?
My windows are plumb, square and level but the latches inside are not opening or closing. Any ideas?
i want to work in your company how can i come about it
I see a lot of very good questions, but no answers(?) Why...?
is there a specific question you are looking to have answered? There are numerous replies to questions that have been posted about this video and we are always happy to give you a call if you need more details!
Vycor is a petroleum product, you can't put it over the Dupont flex tape, it ruins the Dupont over time. The petroleum eats the rubber, use Dupont flashing. You can go rubber over petroleum but not the other way around, ask Dupont if you don't believe me as a random guy on the internet
I’ll tell you what buddy not a drip of water is going to enter that unit because it’s indoors 😅
Can this window work in a concrete wall?
I've replaced doors before, now doing it for the first time for a window and I am shocked that you do not need to secure the unit from the interior side of the wall (through jambs into the studs. Is this intentional as to not disrupt the action from opening the window? You'd think they would just recess the areas where the unit could be fastened as to not disrupt the opening/closing action. Theoretically someone can remove the exterior trim, remove the window, then proceed to rob my house, then reinstall the window/trim. I would hope they at least reinstall prior to leaving, but that might be asking too much.
Jordan, I have the exact same question!
A robber will just pry your back door open before prying a window out.
Your theory is plausible, but not realistic.
I approve of everything except this mans haircut.
HOUSE WRAP DOES NOT COME INSIDE THE HOUSE. FLASHING TAPE MUST BE ROLLED WITH A J-ROLLER. USE "SEALANT" NOT CAULKING. DYNA-FLEX SEALANT. POOR WATER MANAGEMENT, DO NOT TRAP WATER ON THE BOTTOM SILL.
to use nails is a bad idea! use screws.
The idea with the roof nail is to keep the nail head flat to the flange without puckering / wrinkling the window flange but I do understand why a screw would be better to use especially for adjustments within RO.
A helpful hint using roof nails to tack flange is to not drive nail completely. That will allow you the ability to remove if necessary.
Almost right, but still wrong. So many tutorials with misleading information. The tape should go over flang and sheathing, not the paper.
Wrong…