Harley Primary Tensioner Fix
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- čas přidán 18. 10. 2016
- We installed Twin Power's new adjustable primary chain tensioner. A couple notes: I didn't use Red Loctite as suggested by Twin Power. You can use that if you wish. Also...we do not reuse the small tensioner spacers from the factory tensioner. This Primary Tensioner is now available for sale on our e-commerce site under the Drivetrain Compenents section. www.cyclestopusa.com
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Have you ever checked a hot chain? It gets tighter as it heats up, if you think about it the engine cases and transmission case swell as they heat up actually making the distance between the crank and transmission shaft farther apart therefore tightening the chain. That's why the tension spec is 5/8 to 7/8 cold and 3/8 to 5/8 hot. good video!
Why would the chain not lengthen when hot?
i like your video, getting back to the old way.. i still ride my '02 Electra glide & never had any problem with the primary chain, bike before that was an '89 fxlr lowrider no problem & my72 Electra glide no problem.. as you can see i keep my bikes for a long time.. oh yea, i have had other problems but the Manuel adjuster is the only way to go...
I'm definitely going to buy this twin power brand. I hear my starter grind every now and then. I have 18,000 miles on my soft tail and I better change it now. I'm glad this product came up because I hated to have to take the primary chain off to install the baker atitude adjuster tensioner. Thanks for the video.
ANOTHER BIKE LISTING ON CRAIGSLIST.
Take the baker apart, slip in and reassemble.
Yea man...Ive been noticing the same frkn grinding noise in my 2008 crossbones...sob man...im at 24 thousand miles...looks like Im in the same boat...Ride On!
Good video Jason, Thanks for the info.
The manual adjuster on the older twin cams worked just fine. Harley has a tendency to screw up everything that works and then charge a fortune to fix it.
Great video!!! I'm checking mine this weekend on my 07 electra glide police 103.
I use to live in Lakeland now I live in South Dakota 1hr from Sturgis.
Blew out everything in primary with the exception of stator. I believe it could be related to tight chain. This is a great simple but right to the point vid, thank you! I did order the Manual tensioner from you guys, can’t wait to install it!! ✌️
Reviews on the product?
@@jimscycleandautotn8508 Evo's had manual tensioning system, never a problem. This system brings back primary tensioning back to the Evo's "bullet proof" specs.
I know my harleys, but has anyone used this and have a review for it?
@@jimscycleandautotn8508 that's what I'm trying to tell ya. It works the same way it does on the Evo system and earlier than 07's as in it's mechanically done, not hydraulically.
Lou g have you used this product? This exact product sir.
Compliment from Italy 🇮🇹. Nice video
Jason, Bill here from Plymouth Cycle and Speed days. Still riding my 2005 Road King Classic. Hope you are doing well and have survived Ian coming through.
Thanks for the info. You even showed us how to remove it from the package. lol
Great video. I went with HB 125 from Southern Oregan Hot Bikes. Couldn't be Happier
Nice video, Jason.
you do two steps with the torque wrench but completely pin one side down while the other is two turns in?
Be sure when checking that on an auto tensioner, you need to push up pretty firmly with your thumb to get the extra play from those two coil springs in the base of the tensioner. That is why the system is so quiet. It will show you were your other 1/4-3/8 play is for a total of 1/2-5/8 total. Check it 4 place or so to make sure all is OK. It can only get too tight if there are long and short places in the chain. If it really is too tight, you also need to replace the primary chain because of uneven but normal wear.. We all like to snatch a hand full of throttle ever now and then......
RIPSAW I’ve seen that spring fail and had the tensioner allow for too much play. The spring is just a giant version of the spring in a disposable ink pen.
Great vid. Thank you
pulled the chain drive out ; and replaced it with a 3 inch belt drive. That was over 10K miles ago, on my 99 twin cam, still works just fine and dandy.
Harley will never go with a primary belt drive. They are too robust, and dealers would take a huge hit in "shop income" not fixing primary chain drive problems......
Hayden H6 automatic chain tensioner, also run Amsoil oil in all three holes.
William thank you for your comments....let me address these in order. 1st...Hayden is no better than stock. In fact I would argue (you’d likely disagree) that Hayden is an antiquated and “lazy” way of doing a half-assed job. It is basically keeps a little bit of tension on the chain but “not too much”. They were designed over thirty years ago to correct for the idiosyncratic run-out of a tapered shaft clutch run-out issue. I WONT sell them or install them. Even if it is a cash and carry customer. You like it, it’s your bike. Good on you. Secondly, I am assuming you’re an Amsoil dealer? No?...then let me educate you. Amsoil is NOT a real synthetic oil. They are NOT JASO approved (even though is says so on the the bottle). They claim it meets JASO rating standards but Amsoil is not legal for sale in Japan, who sets the JASO rating standards. They DO have their oils tested in the same “independent laboratories”as other oils but that is where it ends. They do not adhere to “industry standard” tests and all oils Amsoil tests are out of the bottle, meaning that they have not been exposed to any contamination from carbon deposits or other exposure to outside chemicals or environmental exposure. Amsoil also has developed a “stationary ball-bearing” test to test the sheer strength of their oils. Don’t believe me? Pick the 22-page document “A study of motorcycle oils”. It is a propaganda piece illustrating the benefits of Amsoil. Amsoil is a category 4 oil that starts life as a mineral (crude) oil pumped from the earth. It is refined and put through a process called “Hydro-cracking” which essentially pressure cooks the impurities (like paraffin “wax”) from its base stock a d then it is enriched with a killer additive package. Red Line and Motul are both estyr-based category five oils meaning their base stock is 100% synthetic. A true synthetic. If you are happy with your oil...again, good on you. I’ve spent my career both in the motorcycle industry and as a journalist and high school auto shop teacher researching my information. I only make recommendations based on that research. Thank you kindly for watching our channel. -J
Shouldnt you have turned the engine and checked the measurement at different crank rotations?
That would indicate a much more serious issue. This is the reason for the 5/8” to 3/4” differential. This video is a basic installation. There is no factory spec for chain slack since the factory tensioner is non-adjustable
To adjust the chain the bike has be and gear or neutral ?
you can mod the stock tensor and i like that option because 08 and up are spring loaded as well as ratcheting. those i find are pretty good stock. if it ain't broke...
ive now put 40k more miles on my stock tensioner and all is well. just for fun when i change my primary oil i pull the cover and take a peek. due for an oil change ill let you know whatci find.
Hello to day is Aug 2021 what is the update for the Chain tension adjustment ?
I have 2007 Harley Heritage softail classic
I'm in Pinellas Park and I have a 2007 Softail, what would you charge to sell and install one of these on my bike? I could just ride over to Lakeland to you
Hey man, great video! Just curious as to why you need to change the mainshaft and not just the bearing in the transmission. Thanks
A Hole - thanks for the nod! The reason for the change is because of the damage to the shaft run-out and bearing surface chaffing from the damaged bearing. Harley sells the shaft repair as a kit. Thanks for watching!
Hi thanks for the video. I am having trouble with chain slap hitting inside the case just under the compensator. Had the cover off and compensator and everything seems fine. . any suggestions? not hitting at cold start up but after a ride and warm you can hear the intermittent knocking. 2014 fxdb
Are you sure the sound is not the compensator itself? They do wear out and are quite noisy.
My 1967 BSA A65 uses this technology. That's why I bought a Goldwing. BSA went out of business in 1972. HD is going the same way if they don't embrace the 21st century.
David Giles BSA’s are awesome. Harley isn’t going anywhere. Thanks for the response. Ride safe.
HD in 07: We fixed the cam chain tensioner problem! ...Then we screwed up another chain tensioner.
I want to love you Harley but you gotta love me back
awesome video.....great mechanic you are, brother. ty for great video.
can you run the tensioner for the touring models on the 2019 touring bikes?
Twin Power now offers a similar product for the M8 Harley Davidson’s
So that fix will prevent tansmission main shaft from failure or transmission main bearing from failure ? Which one is it?
wojtek b both. One begets the other.
Can someone say why Harley-Davidson is still using a chain primary? Every cycle maker now uses a gear drive with custom bikes using a belt drive primary.
With the new Milwaukee 8 being a new motor from top to bottom why would Harley use the old chain primary?
Frank Wood t
Because they make more millions in repairs.
why mess with perfection?
I have a 2010 Roadglide custom with a 107 build did a baker attitude adjuster problem solved next on my list Baker
Compensator ride safe
Vincent McClain is pass on the Baker compensator if I were you. We recommend the Twin Power compensator eliminator. Available
In our online store. Especially for higher horsepower applications. Lose all the complex parts and get better engagement.
Before i install my new Baker Compensating sprocket on my ‘07 softail, i need a new manual chain tensioner, but i don’t know which one to choose. The Baker attitude adjuster, a Hayden tensioner, Twin Power or even a factory like SE manual tensioner. I find the Baker attitude adjuster way to expensive for a tensioner. Any experiences?
will a map censor being bad make my engine light come on?
Joey Barker yes it can. Sensors work in parameters so when the sponsor fails it shows outside of those parameters and throws the light.
Hey great vid
I g
I have 2012 Fatboy.. getting a clunck at Hot start up. I have baker comp and Hayden tensioner.. could it be clutch basket?
Thanks
Mike Deuk you need to remove the compensator and the tensioner. I’m not a fan of the Hayden. It is kinda a lighter version of the factory. The important key is to have slack in a chain. The clunk you are hearing is definitely the compensator. Reduce the overall weight and moving parts and you will notice a huge difference
I used to get a horrible clunk/almost grinding noise that only happened occasionally when the bike was hot. I changed my starter clutch to an Allballs one and it went away.
Something for you to consider
@@goosenek8919 just gonna say...the starter!! smart man
HOW MUCH IS THE NEW PART.....YOU SHOULD REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT ALSO....GOOD LUCK. OR LIST IT ON CRAIGSLIST.
BlackCat 56 the new part is $200. You DO NOT have to replace shaft every time. The shaft only needs replacing when the bearings that hold the shaft are damaged. We do recommend replacing inner primary bearing on higher mileage bikes but there is a test you can perform to determine the condition of the bearing prior to disassembly.
This is now available for sale in our online store www.cyclestopusa.com
Jason Hallman you ever use the Hayden tensioner and is it any good
Why was the adjustment made without checking the tension other places (rotating) the chain ?
That is the reason for the 5/8” to 3/4” variance.
Jason, everyone I've seen measures chain slack by raising the chain an measuring that distance (exactly as you did here), but they take a second step an press down on chain an get downward slack measurement, then add the top slack an bottom together for total slack. Here you took top numbers but not bottom? Which is huge difference in measurements here! And I measure in 3 spots around front sprocket. You think this waste of time? I changed out original to auto, your saying I should put original back on? Tim
Tim Barnett thank for the question. The method you are using may take a little longer but would be effective in determining the differences your chain will see du to shaft “run out”. In fact, that runout is the real reason Harley went to a non adjustable tensioner. Since having a smaller amount of runout would (should) eliminate the need for an auto tensioner we don’t have that luxury. My advice is to check your chain tension at its loosest point and it’s tightest point and end up in the middle somewhere. Thanks for the post and I hope this answered your question. Also...the adjustable tensioner allows you to compensate for the difference in tension where the auto will adjust that out. Once the engine cools chain tension is too taught and can cause bearing damage.
Jason Hallman , on your advice here. My engine has clank at engine start twice now after putting auto-adjuster on primary. I've been trying to determine why the clanking? Should I remove auto adjust an replace with original non-adj shoe?? Thanks for the heads up! That clink at start up really concerns me an was an puzzling unknown!? So, I will replace to original an make as perfect adjustment as I can then check for recurrence in engine clank with original, Thanks, Tim p.s. I was interested in the run-out slop an was curious an thought measuring 3 sites around pully could give me that run out an you confirmed that for me too, Thank again, Tim
Loose is best when setting up becuase that mfer will get tight as it heats up.
So I have a quick question. I have a 2010 road glide and when the bike is hot I go to start it and it sounds almost to me like the starter clutch isn't disengaging. Pulled the starter and everything seems to be fine and functioning like it should. Also pulled the primary cover to see if maybe the comp sprocket was worn but it seems to look ok. My noise is a grind/rattle and it only happens when in neutral on initial start up when hot. When I put it in gear the noise goes away and doesn't return until I shut it off and start it back up. Any help will be appreciated.
John
John, great question! Your problem is likely more due to a compensator than chain tension. As you may or not already know Harley added compression releases to the 103" engine. These aided in reducing static compression during start up. While I do recommend that all late model 2006 up Dyna and 2007 up Twin Cam equipped bikes be outfitted with an adjustable tensioner this may not be what is ailing you. Have you listened for a bad inner primary bearing? Is there a rattle during engine shut down? Are the ring gear teeth and starter pinion in good order? These need to be inspected especially if your chain tension was not too tight. I hope this helps, please do not hesitate to phone the shop with any further questions or post them on here! Ride safe! -J
Jason Hallman so after inspecting the gears all the gears look good I was thinking it was the compensator sprocket just because videos I've watched on CZcams but then I watched your video and you said that it would cause of what sounds like a starter grind well that's exactly what I have going on when I when the bike is in neutral and I start it after the bike is hot after it's been ridden for a while it has like a rattle or a grinding sound as soon as you pull the clutch in and put it in gear it goes away it does not go away when you just pull the clutch and so that's why I was think it wasn't the inner primary bearing so I was just looking for some help or guidance I guess I should say before I just start pouring a bunch of money into it I will try to take a video of it here in the next day or two and I'll post it to here or I can get your email address from me and send it to you in an email just so you can hear what it's doing kind of give me a little bit more of a direction on where to go as far as a clunking noise while when it's starting when you hit the start button or when you're shutting it off there is no clunking noise coming from the primary just got that very slight rattle while idling in neutral that's the only time it does it I do appreciate your time though thank you have a great day
the bike has 28k miles sorry if that helps.
John Lutz ok good! We are getting close to a diagnosis. You say that when you put it in to gear the noise goes away...that is because the transmission main shaft is no longer rotating. I describe this noise as a "hollow rolling roar". Unfortunately this means you have a bad inner primary bearing. This is caused by improper chain tension. I still think you have a compensator issue too simply based on model year. Getting rid of 100% of startup kick back is likely not ever going to happen but we can combat most of it with either eliminating the compensator all together or by installing an aftermarket compensator. I would stay away from any compensator from the motor company (they have had four versions to date). I have had good luck eliminating the comp all together and running a solid sprocket. It provides a much more linear chain alignment and there is zero primary noise as there are no longer any springs to allow low tension kick back. Again hope this helps. Have a great day!-J
Jason Hallman thank you for your help I really appreciate it. I will look into the inner primary bearing and replace. is there anyway of just looking at it and seeing if it's bad? before disassembling? I know I have to change the comp sprocket also I was trying to hold out till next winter when I do the motor work but maybe I'll bite the bullet and get it. I've seen good reviews on the Baker any feed back of that.
John
where can i buy this twin power's chain tensioner .....please send me company that you bought yours from.......i have a 06 dyna super glide
Call 813-754-2959 and ask for Troy. Twin Power no longer offers this part. We offer an exact replacement from a new manufacturer. It is exactly the same a d it is even $20 cheaper.
@@garagebuilttv thanks i will call them....
ONLY NEGATIVE IS, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OUTER PRIMARY TO ADJUST. IF YOUR DOING THIS ON 2007 'S and UP
And?
ENGINEERS AT HARLEY STINK. AS USUAL YOU HAVE TO REPLACE ANOTHER DEFECTIVE PART WIT A $150 UPGRADE.
I completely agree. Won’t find any of these issues with Indian or Victory
thanks bro.
friggin Harley man... basically- revert back to manual adjuster, check it every 5-10K. I love Harley but I don't know what takes more work, maintaining your ride or your wife... they're BOTH expensive.
love it,,hahaha..so true!
Just choose ONE, that makes it entirely more palatable.
Operator error. Start with clutch depressed, stop with clutch depressed. Takes the torque off the tranny main shaft. I do that on the diesel engines. It's in the book.
Very good point , and tip ! ..
he reason is because, this HD motor company still needs to build with fragile engine designs as a way to continue to generate "shop-income".
We now have access to HD corporate balance sheets. They are almost 1500 million dollars in debt, and they can not generate the cash to pay it back. Sure, HD had been storing large sums of cash in their bank in Ireland, but they bleed these reserves dry over the last couple years........
Dang.....pricey!!
RickyBobby only when compared to a complete overhaul...
Stem to stern! Sounds like a sailor...
Carl Pinto not a sailor but I use euphemisms frequently. My other go to is; “soup to nuts”. Thanks for the comment. Ride safe.
Indian and Victory have used only gears in the primary from the beginning. No chain slack to worry about. You just change oil and happily ride! And before anyone comments on Polaris' stupid and short sighted decision to end Victory production, the new Indians would not be the well engineered machines they have been from the beginning without the experience Polaris had in building the Victory bikes. With that I say Screw Polaris! "Till the wheels fall off".
diesel mutt88 yes that is true but to be fair fear to gear has its own set off drawbacks. Hear lash, catastrophic failure from too much torque, noise and in general...clunky ness all contribute to the drawback. Also, friction from gear to gear contact plush weight of rotational components create parasitic loss of power (torque). Nothing is perfect.
Wrong.....
Back wheel off ground, check tension in at least 3 spots. Come on yal.
jimbo markham it’s “y’all” and the back wheel has zero to do with the primary tension.
An go with the tightest spot out of 3!
Exactly what happened to mine shit design
Stupid engineers. Over complicate shit. Carbureted EVO still best Harley ever. I own 2. Also a 1998 FLHCUI with factory sidecar. Simple maintenance they run for ever. I found a unloved 1994 Road King in a bike shop in Orlando FL someone traded in 3 years ago. $3500 out the door. Cash is king. I tore down and sand blasted frame repainted when I first got it.. Had nice chrome still. Still had factory base gaskets that weep oil. Just did the top end gaskets. Still see cross hatch in cylinders. Measurements on cylinders and pistons .002 over stock. While top end off installed new Andrews ev27 cam. New single fire ignition. Rejet carb. Arlen Ness Big sucker intake. Gobs more power. Last 3 years Ive done a lot to it like brake lines, brakes, wheel bearings and seals, rotors on front, re sealed calipers on front, rebuilt forks with new springs, tires, Ape Bars, cables, Primary case re sealed, starter, changed rear air shock oil, NOS factory solo seat, etc etc. Ive got about $6500 in this bike now. Great comfy old bagger. I would ride any where. Black Betty I named it. Good for 25 more years. Many great low mile EVO's out there. Cheap.
Just weld the OEM tensioner
Jimmy Johnson absolutely not! The chain expands and contracts depending upon heat cycles. The whole point we are making is that Harley never made allowances for that. There is no “one size fits all” as far as a setting. This is why am adjustable tensioner is critical.
@@garagebuilttv many reputable builders are doing this.No different than a baker adjuster
Jimmy Johnson huh? “Reputable” you can be reputable for doing the wrong thing. How is a “welded” primary adjuster comparable to a Baker adjustable? You make zero sense. Comparing the two are like comparing a welded spider gearset to a traction lock (posi) differential.
@@garagebuilttv set your tension @7/8".Mark it
Take it out of primary and put a small weld on each side of ramp.No different than a manual tensioner.
Jimmy Johnson except your chain will stretch over time. Then you buy a new chain and what then? I get your theory but you are only prolonging the inevitable. A properly adjusted chain will last well over 100,000 miles (with proper adjustment as part of a regular maintenance interval). Your theory does not account for that maintenance schedule. Have a great day and thank you for your posts.
A loose belt is s happy belt. I keep telling the women that but they don't get out.
that's so you can bring it in for service and pay the dealer big bucks buy a Honda and ride that's it
They sopped making them because of failure(twin power)
Not sure where you got your information from but you are completely incorrect. “They” stopped selling them because their US supplier (Vulcan) was unable to keep up with the demand. We have seen ZERO failures. I know this because of my personal relationship with the brand manager for Twin Power. The company Powerstands Racing now manufactures this part and is readily available.
I can believe all the trash that Harley Davison builds. .. Only a US manufacturer will do that ... More than 100 years building the same garbage over and over again. I understand when software has been created and needs updates because the bugs and errors in coding ... But when it comes to building engines. .? It is unacceptable ...! What this idiots think ..? People and mechanichs on the outside are supposed to fix their stupidity... it's worse when a company can not come out with something stable in 100 years ... I think HD is the only company in the world that has the same group of idiots for engineers. As long people support the brand and buy their machines, we will be in the year 3 thousand and I am very sure that this company will continue doing the same garbage without learning anything during the time ...
Cesar Orellana , then don't buy a harley.
Cesar Orellana hate much? Try some happy pills dudes!
Next time..buy an Indian
LOL....Harley Davidson engineering helps keep guys/shops like you in business :P Gotta love the Motor Factory for making the buying public the research and development test beds...I'm done with it.