Calvin's Feast Part 3: The Hub Adjustment | Tech Tuesday
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- čas přidán 5. 10. 2020
- Calvin is reaching the end of his feast! All that's left on the table is the hub adjustment. Can Calvin get it al dente the way he likes it?
Questions or comments? Leave them below!
➤ Tools & materials used:
• CB-4 Bio ChainBrite™ - www.parktool.com/product/bio-...
• FR-1.3 Freewheel Remover - www.parktool.com/product/free...
• MW-17 Metric Wrench - www.parktool.com/product/17mm...
• SCW-15 15mm Shop Cone Wrench - www.parktool.com/product/15mm...
• PH-T25 P-Handle Torx® Compatible Wrench - www.parktool.com/product/t25-...
• UP-SET Utility Pick Set - www.parktool.com/product/util...
• PPL-1 PolyLube 1000™ - www.parktool.com/product/poly...
• MB-1 Magnetic Parts Bowl - www.parktool.com/product/magn...
• Rags
• Toothbrush
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I was always trying to find the "sweet" spot before putting the wheel on the bike, I never thought of that. Thank you, very helpful.
This video segment should be “must watch” not only by amateurs but by bike shop mechanics. Operating a shop for 30+ years, I encountered hundreds of new bikes fresh out of the box, with grindy-tight bearings, guaranteed to have pitted races within 20 miles of riding. Very few shops adjust them before sale. Also: hardly any grease present.
THANK YOU! Hands down, this was the most helpful Tech Tuesday I have run across. I have been been battling this exact issue with a rear hub for an embarrassingly long time. I am a (very) amateur bike mechanic, and the concept of the steel shaft and threads stretching a bit when the wheel was clamped onto my bike never even crossed my mind. I can't tell you how many attempts to fix this I've gone through, and I am *still* riding the bike with a grinding hub. I gave up trying to fix the problem and was resigned to eventually taking the wheel into the shop. It's been kind of depressing, to be honest.
So much other goodness here! A couple positives to note:
1) Using wrenches to simulate the wheel being clamped onto a bike. Seems totally obvious now, but I just never thought to do that. I tend to fight with my bike while it's on the stand, and this tip will save me a lot of frustration and effort when working with hubs, especially rear ones where I tussle with the chain when installing the rear wheel.
2) Thank you for using tools that most amateur mechanics will have in their garage. Please continue to keep that in mind moving forward.
It's videos like this that make me automatically buy Park tools when I need something new. I don't even shop around anymore. These videos pay for any possible price difference and then some. Plus, I've found that Park tools are just darn good.
This is why I switched to cartridge bearing wheels, cup and cone is just too much hassle
Thanks for explaining this dark art.
this channel is a gem.
The best bearings cone adjustment technique ever! Thank you so much.
Brilliant - 40years in the game and the best advice and knowledge share - Thanks Calvin
Excellent video as always. Replacing a bent or broken axle without checking for bent dropouts is futile. If the dropouts are badly out of parallel, as soon as you clamp down the qr skewer the axle is under stress.
Very smart people there at Park Tool !!!!!
Calvin is very comprehensive in his videos and explains things very thoroughly l enjoy them immensely.
Just tweaked the hubs on my bike using this method and got a great result.
😎👍
When kalvin says its as good as it can be you know it's probably better than new 👍👍
Definitely better than new. Hubs almost always ship from the factory too tight. That's fine for wheel building, because you don't want any bearing play when you're truing them. But they'll need to be adjusted after wheel truing and before riding.
EXCELLENT explanation Calvin, thank you!! I've used on dropout side of a frame to do the same thing, but your example of looseness and tightness were on the money!! Thank you!!
Nice one Calvin. I never knew the quick release compressed the cones and so play needs to be left to accommodate it.
Great video....one of the better ones I’ve seen yet. This guy has so much precision!
Haha you video's are excellent, fantastic explanation and showing how every thing on the bike works, and a great sense of humor. Love it.
Muito boa essa dica, nunca tinha feito desse jeito, um dos melhores mecânicos...
Man I love this channel! :D Just the best kind of advertising! :)
Just got your big blue book! Your YT is great and the book a great addition to my workshop !!
I literally was trying to adjust my hub, perfect timing for this video, thx
Awesome series. Just what I needed. I have that exact same official Park Tool bike cleaning toothbrush. Quality tool.
So helpful! I'm definitely going to use the "fake bicycle" idea because it beats putting the wheel in and out of the frame. Calvin seems extra goofy in this one :-)
Hello Bonjour , Magnifique ! Merci beaucoup au-revoir à bientôt 😀✌
Such great educational videos
I've chased that sweet spot fer years.
Calvin is the God of bicycle maintenance!
Thanks for this video.👌🙋🏻♂️
Thanks for that
God, I love this guy!
Took me a minute to figure this out on my polygon a while ago. But yeah have the hub a bit loose and then the axle tightens it up!
I didnt know that... thanks a lot... mabuhay!!!
That was v interesting and useful....love the fake bike/drop-outs idea
Cool lesson. I'm do this too
😃 ¡Saludos!. ¡Excelente video!
Calvin you are the best
Спасибо огромное
Gonna very very slightly loosen my cone hubs a touch, me thinks! Save some watts!
get job on the hub !
another video will be about new tyre ??
4:22 LOL
Cal in search of the adjustment that's 'Just Right ' !
What about the drive side cones? When should you adjust these, and in what order compared to the non drive side? Thanks
Put in ceramic bearing strong and power
What do you think about clamping the wheel inside a truing stand? Not enough clamping force? Enough force to take up play at least?
That stands cannot provide the force like a skewer. The stand material is not as thick as a dropout, so the stand does not work for this process.
Your stand can't stand that kind of force.
Awesome video! Here's my question, on my single speed road bike, it has I guess normal axles/hub. Would it be possible to change to the quick release style?
If you can find the correct parts, likely. Some hubs simply do not work with other axle systems. It may take a new axle, new cones, locknuts, washers, and a skewer.
Couldn't get the dust seal back?
I hate dust seals.
I have landyachtz spitfire i need my wheel bearings adjusted but I don’t know what size cone wrench I should use. What should I do?
Ok. Just purchased a new bike for my son. When adjusting the bearings if I tighten them so there is no play there is one spot that it grinds. (I have had this problem ALOT with newer bikes) should I tighten it as tight as I can without grinding. (Adjusting it so that one spot doesn't have any play) but most of the rotation has a little loosenes to it or should I still tighten it so there is not any loosenes and let it grind the bearings. The older bikes I work on I never had this problem. I'm guessing it's bad machining or slightly bent axle. It is a $300 schwinn that I had to take every bearing apart and remove the metal shavings in them. The bearings and races looked good.
It's not only the 'elasticity' of the metals used in axles and cones that causes compression in the bearings, it's the poor threading tolerances of cheap hubs, due to their hasty manufacture out of inferior metals: the cones climb up the thread of the axle a few thou more than they should. Near enough is good enough 9 out of 10 times with them, because they aren't going to reward your efforts with longer lifespan nor better performance. They will probably break another axle in the next few months anyway, chew out the cups and the cones, so you may as well upgrade to a cassette hub with decent bearings sooner rather than later.
If those inner cones were too pitted, is there a way to replace them or are you swapping the entire hub?
There are replacement cones available, but you must match the thread of the axle, and the OD of the cone and the cone's profile. If the cup is bad, then a new hub is needed.
4:19 UGH
Can you use 11 speed chain on 10 speed drivetrain
It is not suggested.
Where is part 4?
Does this happen to Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs?
This does not happen on Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs. Those are a bolt on which isolates the forces.
@@parktool OK thank you :)
Ive spent hours on my front hub to try and get it perfect with no resistance. 😮 i settled for the smallest side to side movment when clamped down because i want no rolling resistance. Is this okay?
Some resistance is normal for any bearing. Turn a wheel on a car, as an example. Play in a bearing can increase wear as the bearing surfaces bang into one another.
*_Does this applicable to solid nut axle?_*
Solid axle systems do not change when installed in the bike and the nuts are secure. Adjust for no play out of the bike, and it is the same in the bike.
I have a problem. Is a little bit of play ok with the quick release clamped down? I'm having a lot of difficulty and have spent hours on this hub rebuild. The only issue I see is I can move the wheel with my hand left to right and I can make the disc press up against the pads. Not good. Also one of the press fit dust caps is no longer a friction fit on the new bearing cone. It's loose. I can't seem to get the cup and cones in both sides in exactly the right place! Leaving a little play in the axle doesn't help at all. I think I'm in a bind here
You do not want any play in the hub. You should be able to adjust that out even if one of the dust covers is loose in its location. If you try to eliminate the play and there is binding, then there is something out of place and you need to disassemble to find the issue.
@@parktool I did what you said. I just readjusted everything. There is absolutely no play in the axle, the axle turns fairly smoothly, absolutely no binding, it's definitely NOT as smooth as other hubs I have. That turns me off. But no grinding noise so I think it's ok.
Preload isn't an issue with this hub for some reason. I don't feel the need to overly tighten a quick release.
The issue is still there that I can move the entire wheel by hand laterally by .5 mm. That's half a millimeter. It's enough to where I can move the disc brake rotor against the pads. When under braking load the whole wheel pulls towards the disc brake. This is visible. The fork also might not be specced to handle a 180 mm Rotor. I wanted 200mm but my fork was specced for 180. Now I'm thinking this zoom fork wasn't even specced for 165mm!!!!
Do I need it a smidge tighter? My wheel wheel moves very very slightly but it's as big of an issue since it's rim brakes and the shoes pull evenly. Disc brakes pull a lot more on one side of the wheel.
It still sounds like the hub is where the problem lies. If a jam nut is not locked up against the cone properly it can cause this, Sometimes this is not felt when you have the hub in your hand and only after the wheel is installed. It is not a disc sizing issue.
Who else wondered how the spanners were staying on until the close up lol
Just two tips for purchasers of brand new Shimano hubs (I just bought a set of RS400 road hubs, they are equivalent level to Tiagra):
1. add more grease - LOTS!!!!!!!! (they come nearly dry from the factory)
2. factory setup is too tight when clamped with the skewer - not goldilocks! Follow the instuctions in this video to get them set up just right.
Thanks Calvin, you are awesome!
Whats the name of the piano piece?
"Walk Through the Park" by TrackTribe
My mans needs some new tyres
.... and wash it
And imma ride without the axle for extra smoothness
YAY IM EARLYYY
3rd comment YOO
sorry, dial the hubs in and don't over tighten the skewers
2nd