You don't have to take the mouse apart. No joke. Just put some double-sided tape (about 1.8 cm long) on the mouse scroll wheel, move the wheel gently towards you, and voilà - all the compressed dirt is removed from the inside. Then remove the dust from the tape and use a needle to remove the tape from the wheel. Tested it on my MX Master 3 and 2s
need to buy some finer double sided tape. tried it with a foam type one and it does not go in very well, even so I managed to remove a bit and it was quite dense cotton thing
Super helpful. All the corner cases and concerns covered. Did it, love the results. I looked around a while before finding this, and would have wasted quite a bit of time without your video. THANKS!
A tip I found online - use a cable tie. Feed the tip through the front (might need some force, press the cable against the wheel as you rotate it to force it through) and it should all come out. This way, all you need to remove is the mouse shell, you can keep everything else in place.
The earlier you do this as the wheel starts to slow down the better, I had waited until the wheel was jammed completely so I had clean up some of it with tweezers first before the cable tie could push through.
Great to see someone disassemble it before I do it. Indeed the recess at the bottom of the wheel accumulates a pad of crud that brakes the wheel from free-spinning. One comment, you don't need to remove the connector with the glue. Just leave it glued. The only thing holding the wheel in its assembly is the plastic tab near the connector and the axel of the wheel on the other side.
Thank you for the video! I was sure there was dust underneath the wheel (because when i would hold the mouse upside down, the wheel was spinning more easily) but I didn't know how to get there. Your video gave me the courage to do it and the problem is now fixed.
The timing couldn't have been better, your video gave me enough confidence to clean my Logitech MX Master 3 scrollwheel which was not spinning freely anymore. The tiny spring below the wheel is a pain not to loose because at first it seems to sit firmly attached to the housing but tends to get loose as one wiggles around with the parts. Better to put it in some safe place as first thing. Prying out the metal wheel with the coil needed some force, one needs to beware of the tiny metal copper plate that is on the edge in a spot where one would put his thumb. The axle on the opposite side can be comfortably lifted with credit card because screw driver tends to stick to the magnetic end part of the axle.
Thanks for video, tried fixing initially but assumed the wheel assembly was a no-go. I did lose my spring, makes no odds the microswitch underneath has enough bounce.
I don't have one of those, but I have its predecessor : Performance MX. After making this video I actually found it and cleaned the mouse wheel. It has a super complicated mechanism with a lot of parts. I figured it out, but it might have helped to take pictures along the way. I checked out videos of the 2s and it looks a little less complicated than the Performance MX. But still probably complicated. All those little clear plastic parts are like a puzzle. Take pictures of disassembly (to help putting it back together) if you try to take it apart.
Hi, thank you for this video. It helped me a lot. I cleaned my mouse and removed all dust but now I have another problem. Before rachet mode worked and free wheel mode didn't work, now it is opposite. Free wheel mode is working but rachet mode is not working. It change on click and I see in software it is changed but hardware not. Can you please give some advice ?
Sorry to hear that. It sounds like either a loose connection somewhere, or you might have broken something. there is only one connection to the wheel - the power connection. I think the ratchet mode works by applying power to the wheel. Make sure the power cable is connected. Also check the little copper wires. I think if one of those is disconnected the wheel won't activate. Another problem might be the ribbon cable that connects the main board to the top shell. Although if the software detects the button press, the ribbon cable might not be the problem.
@@dansynth8408 thank you for fast reply. As you said ribbon can't be a problem because software detects the button press, sometimes slower but I figure out that it takes a few second to switch while you are working with mouse. Anyway it switch to rachet mode it still stay on free wheel. If something is broken how can I notice it. I checked all connectors and all is connected perfectly fine. I removed copper part when i was cleaning mouse and then installed back to wheel but not sure if that can cause a problem.
You don't have to take the mouse apart. No joke. Just put some double-sided tape (about 1.8 cm long) on the mouse scroll wheel, move the wheel gently towards you, and voilà - all the compressed dirt is removed from the inside. Then remove the dust from the tape and use a needle to remove the tape from the wheel. Tested it on my MX Master 3 and 2s
bro, you are a hero, no joke.
need to buy some finer double sided tape. tried it with a foam type one and it does not go in very well, even so I managed to remove a bit and it was quite dense cotton thing
This solution works great to me. Thanks mate.
Super helpful. All the corner cases and concerns covered. Did it, love the results. I looked around a while before finding this, and would have wasted quite a bit of time without your video. THANKS!
Perfect !! Exactly what I was looking for, thank you for this.
Good video and very helpful.
A tip I found online - use a cable tie. Feed the tip through the front (might need some force, press the cable against the wheel as you rotate it to force it through) and it should all come out. This way, all you need to remove is the mouse shell, you can keep everything else in place.
The earlier you do this as the wheel starts to slow down the better, I had waited until the wheel was jammed completely so I had clean up some of it with tweezers first before the cable tie could push through.
thank you
Great to see someone disassemble it before I do it. Indeed the recess at the bottom of the wheel accumulates a pad of crud that brakes the wheel from free-spinning.
One comment, you don't need to remove the connector with the glue. Just leave it glued. The only thing holding the wheel in its assembly is the plastic tab near the connector and the axel of the wheel on the other side.
thanks a lot for this video! i didn't have the courage to disassemble things but i saw your vid and finally got m free spin working again.
great! - mine was so bad it stopped spinning.
Many thanks sir
thanks, great video. this helped a lot
great video
very thorough
Thank you for the video! I was sure there was dust underneath the wheel (because when i would hold the mouse upside down, the wheel was spinning more easily) but I didn't know how to get there. Your video gave me the courage to do it and the problem is now fixed.
That's great. The mouse works a lot better with a clean wheel!
The timing couldn't have been better, your video gave me enough confidence to clean my Logitech MX Master 3 scrollwheel which was not spinning freely anymore. The tiny spring below the wheel is a pain not to loose because at first it seems to sit firmly attached to the housing but tends to get loose as one wiggles around with the parts. Better to put it in some safe place as first thing.
Prying out the metal wheel with the coil needed some force, one needs to beware of the tiny metal copper plate that is on the edge in a spot where one would put his thumb. The axle on the opposite side can be comfortably lifted with credit card because screw driver tends to stick to the magnetic end part of the axle.
Thank you so much. Was not sure where there is a safe path to clean the wheel or not. Lost the spring a long time ago haha. New life for old MX 3.
Thank you very much. This helped my get my mouse wheel working again today!
Thank You so much - works like brand new :)
great 👍
Thanks for video, tried fixing initially but assumed the wheel assembly was a no-go. I did lose my spring, makes no odds the microswitch underneath has enough bounce.
Thanks. Fix my mouse for 5 minutes, works like new.
You should make a video for the 2s 🙏 i cant find a youtube video of cleaning the 2s huhu
I don't have one of those, but I have its predecessor : Performance MX. After making this video I actually found it and cleaned the mouse wheel. It has a super complicated mechanism with a lot of parts. I figured it out, but it might have helped to take pictures along the way.
I checked out videos of the 2s and it looks a little less complicated than the Performance MX. But still probably complicated. All those little clear plastic parts are like a puzzle. Take pictures of disassembly (to help putting it back together) if you try to take it apart.
Hi, thank you for this video. It helped me a lot. I cleaned my mouse and removed all dust but now I have another problem. Before rachet mode worked and free wheel mode didn't work, now it is opposite. Free wheel mode is working but rachet mode is not working. It change on click and I see in software it is changed but hardware not. Can you please give some advice ?
Sorry to hear that. It sounds like either a loose connection somewhere, or you might have broken something.
there is only one connection to the wheel - the power connection. I think the ratchet mode works by applying power to the wheel. Make sure the power cable is connected. Also check the little copper wires. I think if one of those is disconnected the wheel won't activate.
Another problem might be the ribbon cable that connects the main board to the top shell. Although if the software detects the button press, the ribbon cable might not be the problem.
@@dansynth8408 thank you for fast reply. As you said ribbon can't be a problem because software detects the button press, sometimes slower but I figure out that it takes a few second to switch while you are working with mouse. Anyway it switch to rachet mode it still stay on free wheel. If something is broken how can I notice it. I checked all connectors and all is connected perfectly fine. I removed copper part when i was cleaning mouse and then installed back to wheel but not sure if that can cause a problem.