Perfect Daily Driver 6 - DIY Engine Block Prep
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2020
- Basic block inspection, the do's and don'ts of cylinder honing, good general practices and all the reasons you'll be spending an entire week locked down in your garage.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
This man is a walking haynes manual. We appreciate the time you take to share your knowledge with us.
If he's a Haynes manual, I don't want any part of it.
To remove transmission:
1. Remove transmission.
*Installation is reverse of removal
@@superduty4556Chiltons
Haynes manuals for older cars are generally better than newer ones I find
Yes, thank you Tony!!
@@jamesplotkin4674 Much of the problems arose in the early to mid 80's. Remember when the big talk of gangs in NY was taking cars apart on the side of the road? After such reports. GM mainly but the auto industry all did their part, in manufacturing cars that were impossible to take apart on the fly. Which meant there was almost a specialized tool for every bolt on the car...
I agree about not trusting new parts. I've seen too many "Brand New" foreign made parts fail immediately, whereas the old ones were just fine and could be reused.
when it comes to parts and machine shops, it does help to ask around. Car clubs and car shows may expose you to those who've been around the block. Also, a mechanic who does fleet work may know the cheap stuff, but a mechanic who works on airplanes knows, an engine failure up there isn't solved by pulling over to the nearest cloud to wait for AAA :)
the other issue with new parts, is when the OEM changed spec mid season to save some cents per car built. I wanted to replace the EGR on a Ford a year ago, ordered up the system from Ford, and was fustrated with the fact it wasn't the same--my car had the valve mounted horizontally, the OEM factory-stamped part had it vertically.
Welcome to WTF Were They Thinking town, population you.
New
Never
Even
Worked
My man you understand that through time I've had so many brand-new Parts come in his failed parts when you run a business as long as I have and probably like you have you learn that
Hey come on! I'm from Bongosqueegie and all our piston rings are made and inspected by at least 13 year olds!
Love these types of vids keep em coming lol
We pride ourselves on only letting 4 and 5 year old sweep our floors...
@@kramnull8962 that's crazy talk. stick with the eight year olds.
they know their stuff & aren't smart enough to unionize just yet.
I just did a 350 engine rebuild, never did one before, allot of reading and took me about 6 months, but it ran and no leaks.
Nice! Congrats.
Nice job man... No better feeling than turning that key and hearing it roar to life. Makes all the countless hours of riding the front seat of the struggle bus worth it.
Nothing like that feeling after every Start...... Victory!! ... Peace
I got a 1970 350/300 sitting in a 70 Impala since 78, I wanna get started on. Drop into a 1992 S10. I guess I am trying to get over the LS naysayers. Seems like this 350 would be in the line with this build. Was rated at 380 ft. lb. of torque from factory. Downside it needs to be prepped for roller lifters since everyone is having such problems out of standard lifters recently... That and not knowing what was actually the problem with it running. Dad said it popped back through the carb one day at lunch on a cold start, and never ran right again. He put a new stock cam and a couple rebuild kits into the carb, to no prevail. Not sure if it was a thing of him being a Ford man, and or not being a good quadrajet man...
kram Null
If it had the problem before.
And you rebuild without diagnosing the problem chances are most likely you will have the same problem after the rebuild.
Sitting since ‘78
Could be good. Could be nightmare.
American V8's are the best. Years ago when I was 18, I rebuilt my 55 chevy 265 on my own with no prior experience. Had a machine shop do the valves, but I did the rest. Went together easy and worked great. Wish I still owned the car.
That's awesome.
Yes, you do. I was lucky and divorced first, lol..
I like the way you get right to the point. No loud music or bullshit, or showing how loud your tools are.
That was an excellent episode of Uncle Tony's Garage. Not too long, not too short, informative, excellent attention to detail- this is a definite Goldilocks Episode- "Just Right"
Thank you
uncle tony can never make a video too long
My father's V8 318 will be a breeze to rebuild thanks to your efforts here. I cannot thank you enough for all this.
When I was on Crazy Deans pit crew 1968 - 1971, we used the dingle berry for cross hatching quick piston changes in the pits. I worked primarily on the trans team (he used two top loaders and a main shaft eplacement in three passes) but spent a fair amount of time on engines as well. This was before the advent of engine machinists in the pits.
Hey Tony,
i bought a LA360 over the winter and I tore it down this afternoon just to follow along with
your "Perfect Daily Driver" series. This is my first build and I
just wanted to say thanks for all your videos and sharing the knowledge, your the best man.
Badass.. Mopar Everyday and Everywhere
A great way to start your evening: a 19+ minute Uncle Tony video!
Well worth it!!
Yes, I'm glad I stumbled on to these videos. I've repaired my vehicles for close to 50 years and never heard things explained so well. Tony explains things better than the auto shop instructor I had in high school.
LOL still have my three-bladed Ridge reamers they are my antiques on my glass Shelf love your enthusiasm dude God bless signing off
Uncle Tony, you are great and your videos are helping me to rebuild my 6.1 Hemi. Thank you for the videos and keep it up.
I sure wish this series was available 7 years ago....would have saved me a lot of headaches
This channel is all the stuff I needed to know and tried desperately to piece together as a teenager.
John Wilburn ya...7 years ago, I was 48!! Lol
@@cutl00sencHaha... you forgot how old you were for a minute there, didn't you?
ROLL UP YOUR WINDOWS!!! Love this series.
Man I get stupid excited for these videos. It’s my prep to rebuild an engine for the first time
A good friend of mine would start with a three blade type hone and finish with a dingleball for hash marks it worked good. And someone please send uncle tony a new drill cable that ones been through some shit!
Battle tested,Garage proven
chewed drill cables and gasoline sprayed around, what could go wrong? :) seriously, "safety is no accident", its a habit. Practice safety routines, and you never have to stop and think when cutting a corner, "is there something different from the last times i got away with doing this, something that's gonna bite me in the ass this time?"
I've been around a long time, and never heard half the stuff on this channel. Thing is it always makes sense and the reasoning is explained. Love it
All good tips no doubt about that. Literally everything you do and use in the shop is similar to the methods and techniques i was shown and use today. Great work Tony keep it up🖒
Great information and presentation Uncle Tony. Thanks for sharing your highly valuable talent and information. Well done.
Great information today.. I hope Kathy is putting all this in a book for us old people.
*GREAT INFO FOR THE NEWBIES and a GOOD REFRESHER FOR THE OVER THE HILL RACERS*
Hey, Lets all talk in bold like a queer!!!!!!
@@rustybrowneye OKAY, LET'S PHUQING DO IT.
Some people's kids, sheesh
Always good to see you Tony, helps spend the quarantine time.
Greetings from Timor Leste, thank you for your time and effort to share your knowledge on mechanical engine.
Exceptionally good show Uncle Tony.seen too many so called mechanics that DON’T know how to hone properly. I could tell your cylinders will have proper crosshatch and great ring seating.
Thanks for the 19 minutes of class and also the tips.....uncle tony 👍
Good point about the grinder. some weld together an old truck driveshaft and drum brake to make a stand that can be rolled in and out of place. Another tip for when you're removing metal from a part...a rare earth magnet, placed in the path of the chips, will collect a few of them so you aren't chasing them down during cleaning. If you're grinding near a water passage (let's say), put some shaving cream in--it can catch the particles and then get flushed out easily.
Bearings: there's a lot of debate over sanding them versus not. For most things in life, a safe rule is..."when it doubt, throw it out". The dollars you spend now could be dollars you don't spend at the side of the road. But if you've done a ton of engines, you can make a good judgement call.
Ridge at the top of the cylinder: its true until you clamp a head on it--that's why a torque plate is used in boring, to replicate the distortion. And if you're running an aluminum block, the distortion gets so bad a good machinist wants the main caps, timing chain cover, bell housing, even the starter on for some designs. Some blocks, like Pontiacs, screw the heads not into the deck surface, but the walls of the block itself, and so some will skip a torque plate in those builds. Of course, there are those who also want to run coolant thru the block, get it up to heat so its at full expansion--but cutting away metal is also causing a heating issue in the block. When you use gasoline, be in a well-ventilated area--there's a reason why Pintos and side saddle GM trucks had an issue :)
For those who are finicky, a torque plate should also be applied to the head when doing major surgery like new hardened valve seats. Dealing with an obscure engine with no torque plate? fake it with a stack of washers or a wrist pin to replace the height of the torque plate, and then torque it to spec around the cylinder you're operating on. Great when you're messing with the rings, and excellent point about the light gap around the ring. when some install a piston, they'll hook up a fish scale to the large end of the rod to test how many pounds of pull it takes to move that piston to BDC.
I wondered if using stacks of washers would work at mimicking a torque plate. Now that I know someone's tried it and it works, I'm gonna' do it!
Thanks Tony, and Kathy...even after a hard day it makes me smile to see something from you all. However, with the ridge-reamer...yep, I grew up with flat heads. The original block from Lucille had a major ridge. (The 1967 block needed to be bored over 0.030" over to "almost" be true.) It is always great to hear what I learned from my Father about building engines on a budget. Kind of a lost art with all of the hype on "you gotta have it" promoted in the media. Thanks again. All the Best from Germany.
Great video! Lots of information there to take in. That's a video to save and watch more than once to pick up on the subtle info. Thank you again.
Uncle Tony’s tip of the day 👊🏼⛽️
Just love the way he uses his gasoline squirter bottle for every thing , starting cars , checking for manifold and carb leaks now he’s using it as a honing lubricant WAY TO GO Keep it up Tony
That drills paid for itself 500 times...love the old tools tony👌
Uncle Tony word of the day: gack
We need to contact Mirriam-Webster. . . .
@@mortensen1961 Any filth that resides in noticeable amounts
I got Gak for Xmas in 91’ . It was goo that made fart noises
Curtis Btyant you, too, Curtis
Uncle Tony great info in this video..espeacially the part about cleaning the cylinders and using a ring to check for trueness in the cylinders..you are the definition of Old School...thanks for the info
Looking forward to all the engine builds.
Great work BROTHER man this is one of the best mechanical channels on the internet brilliant job . Speaking of new parts I own a 73 model F100 I brought an aftermarket ignition switch that completely fell apart after 3 days of use the old one was fine for all those years until somebody tried stealing the vehicle. From Australia AMERICAN part's are better quality.
One of the best UTG videos...lots of great info here
Uncle Tony I just subscribed to your channel I like your old school ways . I'm building a daily driver motor for my jeep.but it's a 4.3 v6 no balance shaft . Thanks for all you do. ED in west virginia. 👍
I don't know whether to share this with my peers or not. They might begin to hate you Uncle Tony, like they hate on me. Many of them are of the "Once you pull it down, you MUST replace every conceivable component, rebore, grind the crank, deck the block, all after sonic testing it" ilk, even in a daily shopper. I've been doing it this way nearly, but not quite as long as you Unc, and nowhere near as frequently, but with no failures. I'm probably just a bit more cautious, in that I will replace rings and rod bearings every build, regardless. Keep up the great videos my friend, you have the respect of many.
Just because it is a NEW part doesn't mean it is proven. Good video, i'm wanting to build my son a duster on a budget, OD 4 speed and roller 318 or 360. Thanks for the video!
I suggest a few minutes on using a tap, cleaning threads in through holes and blind holes, when to replace a bolt, and the importance of oiling the bolt threads and under the bolt head before torquing. I learned those last ones the hard way.
I wouldn't recommend using a tap on the engine, but would suggest using a thread chaser/restorer. While they are similar in design, a thread chaser won't remove as much medal from the threads and still clean out the junk. We want to keep as much of the original thread as possible.
Only apply oil to threads if it's called for. Lubricant changes the effective tension on a fastener for a given torque, if they want you to put in your head bolts dry and torque to say 100lbs adding lubrication and torque to that spec will result in an over torqued fastener.
@@wyattwunderlin4445 dont want a broken tap either
@@wyattwunderlin4445 in some cases, if you worry about where those shavings are going to drop, a little petroleum jelly in the gap between the "teeth" of that thread chaser, may be the ticket to catching the debris and pulling it out of the bolt hole easily.
Even if I don't have a tap , I'll make one by cutting a groove in a bolt.
I'm sure someones gonna yell and say dont use taps use thread chasers.
Make your own from old bolts.
Love your videos. Helps me get through this rough time. So glad that you are posting these
I'm late getting to these videos sometimes but I make sure not to miss one, I can't think of one time I've disagreed with something uncle Tony has said. Great information, glad he's a Mopar guy because that's at the least of my engine and transmission knowledge.
Always valuable content in your videos. I’m gonna try and find some new old stock for my build.
Gold precious tips Uncle. Thanks.
Thanks for today’s lesson. You’re a great teacher!
Love your videos UT. I just discovered you recently, but you make a lot of sense! Great work!
I sure didn't have enough time to learn from this professor.
LQ4 block, bent rods from (I'm guessing hydrolock), work truck and a $900 budget. Now a misfire from the 2 damaged cylinders. I wouldn't been able to bore anyway. The machine shops were backed up.😔 I needed to get back to work.
That's a really great idea on the snake tray mounted bench grinder Tony.
This all really good "back to basics". Well done.
Thanks Tone excellent what you showed us today 👍
Thank you Tony wow you still the engine whisperer. Man your good teach school. Your the man.
That's THE BEST rundown ever given on CZcams! You're in your element Tony, you just covered most every detail I can think of from the perspective of a home rebuild. I know you have more to cover on this particular block but this was pure gold. AAA+++!
Good stuff 👍🏼. Loving this series.
This Series is super helpful Boss.. Thanks Always Uncle Tony and Auntie Kathy.. Oi oi oi
Another known trick when I was a kid we used to take freeze out plugs and put gasket sealer on the back of them to make them last longer cuz we didn't have brass freeze out plugs
Much of the material you are presenting here can be used on "small engiine service".
Good info. 👍
That was a GREAT one Uncle Tony everything said made a Lot of Sence ( not so Common ) the newest engines with there Low tension rings 2 save gas & / use more oil 2 me N.G. Thank You so very Much 4 the Info Your The Best !
Good info and good delivery. Thank you for sharing.
I been watching CZcams videos of engine builders for 10 years and your the only one that I actually have learned so much from in the last 2 days of finding your channel thanks so much very educational.
Great info Tony. I just passed this on to a young youtuber to assist him in a sb ford budget rebuild.
👍
Hey Tony i come from East Bongo Squigee!! ha ha That was a new one for me, thanks for the video.
I mount my grinders on wheeled carts just for that reason, you can blow threw that bearing to make sure its clear rather then pull it out. Haven't heard that thumb nail gauge thing in 40 years, THUMBS UP!
NPR, hastings, total seal, and Mahle all make good piston rings. Also for main/rod bearings I only use King brand or ACL.
Here's a tip from the port city kid ( me)eastcoast to ya.my favorite tool is a electric leaf blower I use mine to blow everything out from gas lines filters aircleaners to the whole garage ECT.leaving the door open all kinds of dirt dust will blow in a at the end of the day I blow it all back out. I took all kinds of odds a ends attachments a made them fit on the blower.( simple clean easy cheap a threw my vac in the corner.even blow the vehicles off inside a out before entering garage.( try it you'll like it.!
Glad to hear you mention a FE !
There is no finer engine!
@@413x398: Unless you have to change the plugs or starter on an FE-equipped Mustang or Cougar. . . .
@@mortensen1961 Been there done that. You need to have a few different combinations of ratchets and extensions and u-joints. You cannot do the job with your one "typical" combo.
@@413x398 Sounds like you are good at shooting pool with your ratchet and extension...
@@kramnull8962 I drove CJ and 390 cars regularly for years. Still have all of them.
thanku tony once again u have helped the masses
Thank you for the information you shared, very helpful video!
We always use diesel as a cutting fluid and it seems to work great, it also smells the best
This is how weekend budget racers built them 20+ years ago. I built a 440 in the same manner. Good advice Tony.
If there's enough ridge where you have to use a ridge reamer to get the Piston out than it absolutely has to be bored out!
👍🏻 always a wealth of knowledge tony ! Thanks
Excellent lesson..
Good chat Tony...I like building my own engines because I can spend as much time as I like fiddling with them as opposed to a customer who wants his ASAP.
A few other helpful tips, if you do replace the cam bearings, use an installation tool, don't try to use anything else. Cam bearings are typically numbered for the position they go in with the front one being no. 1. Make sure you align the oil holes on the bearings with the passages, a puff from an air hose through the oil passage will help verify it didn't slip as you installed it. Always, always, always trial fit your camshaft to make sure it goes all the way in before you assemble anything else. I've seen the crush on the I.D. enough to keep the cam from going in. If you've already assembled the bottom end, you have to take it all back apart to fix that bearing.
I don't know why I never considered the ID crush might be enough to block the cam! I told the machinist I'm gonna be taking my block to that I'm using a stock cam and just need stock bearings put in, and was wondering why he stressed that I need to make sure to bring the cam with the block when I drop it off. I just figured "prob just wants to verify fitment" and left it at that, without considering specifics. Thanks for sharing that.
@@screwsinabell I've had to take 2 back apart, it isn't common but it does happen.
Fantastic episode
Thank you uncle Tony,hope you dont
mind me using your knowledge on old
BMW inline sixes from the 70's n 80's
Another great video 👍👍
another awesome video tony for working at home not like these other channels which claim to be diy'ers then throw brand new everything at the motor
The block is the foundation of all of it so have to make sure it is all good to start with.
I love the snack tray. I have a half dozen and use them for everything. They make great portable work tables. They hold your tools while working, paint cans while painting or whatever. A couple make usable saw horses. And they’re only about $8.00 at Walmart.
Yeah I look for new old stock also.
Thanks Uncle Tony
That glaze breaker hone you use is ok but I prefer a more rigid unit like a Lisle. The glaze breaker style has a habit of following the contour of the bore, the irregularities that is. Freeze plugs, I always remove them. 1) they may be rusted nearly through & show no sigh of leakage. 2) Removal will allow you to thoroughly clean the coolant passage inside the block. There is usually a bunch of crud hiding at the bottom of the water jacket. MoPar truck blocks are made of high nickel iron and are very rigid & durable, you ain't gonna distort the freeze plug bores. Never had a leak problem after replacing them.
Thanks for teaching us
Thumbs up! Always great info.
very useful information great video.
I commented recently on the Sunday Night Live about this motor but I'm rebuilding a 327 with my father, it's truthfully my first real motor
The motor had been professionally machined and honed however it'd also sat for quite a few years. We ran a dingleball/berry hone through the bores each VERY briefly just to assure that everything was nice and fresh and that's it. I think in total it was maybe one, two passes each cylinder. Anything more we'd have gotten a true fixed stone hone out to fix
Another great video
How you doing my man Tony a boon to shop for over 45 years now not working anymore due to bad Health however hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of Motors in cars I pulled tricks off that nobody could believe but everything he said it's pretty damn accurate and I just want to see success for you I subscribed and I want to see everybody listen to you because pretty spot-on have a great day I think you're a good good Channel that's all I got to say have-a-nice-day Tony
Good down to earth information
Good video uncle Tony good video as usual
you have given me a flashback we used to check number one cylinder at the front of the motor for lip because that always had the worst lip and I was told the reason for that is it runs the coldest because it’s got the water pump bolted right opposite on the other side and runs the coldest
when I was doing DIY stuff even if we didn’t re-bore The cylinder we did remove the lip with a special tool and then honed em and they told me the reason for that is that even though we re-using the same pistons we’ve got new bearings on the bottom and everything is been taken apart and when you thrash it a bit the piston travel can be a few thousandth more than it used to be on account of things stretching a touch and there’s a theoretical risk it smashes the ring landing......
Don’t know if it’s true or not that’s what they taught us
Trick is, there is an adjustment on a reamer. Don't shoot for a .030 overbore with the reamer... It is another one of those TIME CONSUMING tasks...
We were talkin word-for-word in the freezer plug they also made engine block heaters with the freeze out plug so when you put it in a head engine block heater in it and they did that on a gasoline engine as well as a diesel
nice one Tony
this'll help me rebuild my set of 351M's
thanks!
very good information. thanks.
Awesome, thanks Tony
Very enlightening. Thanks...
Great Info!
Good info as always UT!! Brass plugs=awesomeness!! And they really look good surrounded by Ford Blue! Lol
The ring trick is a great way to check bore taper without a dial gage.. Great, low budget ideas THAT WORK!!
Thank you UT!!
sadly, in a future video, that one oddball core plug was a sign of repair. out they all came.
Great advice 👍🏽