Step By Step Kitchen Engine Rebuild Part 1: The Block
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- čas přidán 6. 02. 2021
- Before we haul this engine to the house, it first has to make a trip to the machine shop. Here are the basics on how to evaluate and prepare it for the next step.
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Using ring end gap to check cylinder taper as well checking ring end gap at top , middle and bottom of cylinder .
THIS! Completely slipped my mind while shooting the vid. Trying to cover too many things at once while worrying about time.
Thank you.
No sweat man, just put a white board out of sight with your bullet points.
We actually show LOTS of that on the infamous 318 live build.
@@johnwilburn I was thinking the same thing but didn't want to mention it because of... well I think most of know.😉
@@UncleTonysGarage An honest man that can admit to his mistakes. Well done Uncle Tony!
Back in tech school almost 25yrs ago , I saw it all from 6 guys manhandling a 4 cylinder in and out of a lifted Datsun , to everything being rebuilt or toyed with in the living rooms of the off campus apartments, you name it it happened.
And it hadda be kept low key , we did have inspectors daily and had to keep our rooms clean ,dishes etc so it was a heck of a deal to hide a Ford 9" rear end under your couch.
Put a wig and some lipstick on it and putting it in the bed won't work, ask me how I know.
Good times.
That’s funny, I had an 8 3/4 A body housing stashed that very way when I was in high school. I really had nowhere else to keep it at the time. It was $75 complete, so I had to snag it first and figure the rest out later.
😂 I'm gonna try and rebuild an LS1 later this year when I get the money 🤙
Currently have my 5 speed transmission in my house. When it's 20 below outside I prefer to bring the work indoors.
I don't like working in the freezing weather neither but I did change a water pump (friends marquis) in 20 degree weather while our power was out. Talk about numb fingers and toes!
True facts
Big Bear I did my marauder’s water pump in my house I just pulled through the French doors and did it in the living room
@@bigbear5510 i dont even like pumping gas in freezing weather.. What's bad is im an otr trucker. It was a balmy -5 in illinois when i got up this morning.. Had to fuel right away then go swap a trailer. 2 - 3 feet of snow on the ground.
I can't stand it man..
@@lilmike2710 I started driving OTR about 20 years ago, been sidelined for the last 11 years due to medical issues. I've been there and done that. It's a real pain if the trailer tandems don't want to unlock or slide. Make sure ya have some rubbing alcohol for moisture in the air lines in cold weather.
I had a complete 440 on engine stand in my living room for 5 years
I salute you for that.
As decor?
@Supernumerary Yarbles suprizingly yes 26 years.i guess she thinks my motor is sexy.lol
@@KING-LEO damn, you need to take her out to dinner or something else surprise/fancy.
That's a keeper!!!
Had two 360's in my living room for 4 years
I can't remember the last time I saw such 'old school' mechanics but it is absolutely refreshing! Well done sir!
Thank you uncle Tony for the generalized block rebuild series. The nuanced info you are providing compliments the info you'd get from an engine rebuild book. Since this is going to be a series, would you consider adding an episode number in the the thumbnail so we can see at a glance that we're watching these vid's in procedural order?
I always feel like I've learned something watching UTG
Brother, you are the 318 encyclopedia of CZcams. I am very grateful for your content.
When you have pistons stuck in the block before you destroy them try this (it really works). Get a 2 litre bottle of Coke classic, it has to be coke classic, and pour it in on top of the pistons and let it soak for a day add additional if needled. I told my neighbor to do this because he had tried everything else. He thought I was nuts but what ever. Next day when I got home, he came over and said " don't drink coke ". I asked why. He told me " I let it sit for about 18 hours and thought I would see if it had worked. I bumped the piston with a hammer handle and the piston fell out and hit him on the foot. The rest came out the same way.
An old electrician taught me to use it on blocked conduits that run through concrete. Pour it in and let sit overnight. Didn't know it worked for engines too.
I always smooth out oil returns and de-burr the entire block as well as remove any cast flashing too. It's a minimal amount of work for a quality piece when done.
I remember years ago my parents went on vacation and left me home alone. That is when I brought my 170ci slant 6 into the family room and overhauled it. I was never found out.
Good adive for the new to intermediate guys. But it is always nice to know someone else's take on it!!! You never stop learning!!!
Wow, after watching 100's of vidoes on engine building and disassembly I thought I heard everything yet after wathcing your video I leaned so much its unbelievable! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!!!! What a great reference tool!
When knocking core plugs out, I was always told to be careful not to hit the cylinders because if you hit them hard enough you can distort the sleeve and put a "dent" in it and ruin the bore job.
It does NOT require that much effort to tap out a core plug .
I take a socket that fits nicely inside the plug to be removed .tap tap tap .
Every time pops right out if it doesn't disintegrate because of rust .
Then fish it out with needle nose .
@@TheGarywilliams I have ran into some core plugs that were so seized it took a sledge hammer to get them out, some engines they pop out with a couple light taps but that doesn't always happen, I changed all the core plugs in a 4.3 v6 and I had the engine out of the vehicle on a stand and a regular hammer wasn't good enough, I had to beat them like crazy with a sledge hammer to get them to move they were all that stuck. And when your hitting them that hard you have to be very very very cautious that you don't knock the plug in and hit the sleeve with a hard hit.
Thanks for this series, UTG. I'm planning to rebuild a tractor engine this spring, so I'm watching and taking notes.
People need to encourage All OldSchoolerzzz to start making videos. We are not getting younger and so much info lost or not practiced much.
Just started...!!!👍👍
Im no Uncle Tony but I know a couple things!!
I could speak to add nausea about small block Chevys
I'll be following religiously as I have my 6.1 Hemi tore down.
Nice motor
Thanks Tony. Been working on and reading about these engines for 40 years and I still learn something from you
.
Hey Uncle Tony, you can add the videos from this series to an CZcams playlist, it will be easier to follow up and sometimes the YT algorithm suggests it to viewers so you may get extra viewcount
Love this series! I’d love to tackle an engine rebuild one day, but am also without a garage. I’m currently rebuilding a transmission and transfer case in my basement though!
Check your LA block for a rebuilt engine tag to see if its already been overbored and to what degree and if the crank has been cut. Always figure all these specs in to your plans.
The factory leaves marks like the iron cross, i listed them in another video. Ma Mopar didn't toss anything :)
I see the PB Blaster on your workbench. Check out Project Farms video on penetrating oils. Blaster was less effective than standard WD-40. Liquid Wrench easily came out on top.
I went to a "head shop" in Birmingham Al. like back in 1998 with an old inline 6 head i salvaged from a donor motor. (My old one had cracked).I asked them to shave, port and polish it for me. The guy tells me they can shave it but.. They don't "port and polish". And this was a place that exclusively worked on cylinder heads. I wound up taking it to a machine shop that did just about everytning u can think of with metal stuff and they were able to get it done, ready for pickup the next day.
It looked like a brand new head. Had some sort of lubricant on it and plastic wrapped.. Lol, it looked so good that I couldnt bring myself to put it on my old greasy engine so i wound up steam cleaning the motor and painted every thing with engine paint including the engine well.. I ended up with an old beat up work van that had the best looking motor and engine bay around lol.
Why did you have a work van I6 head ported and polished?
@@DrewLSsix Thats just what I wanted. I was 27-ish at the time and thats just simply what i wanted.
It was a 1976 chevy van swb with 3 on the tree. After i replaced that head (and the obligatory tune up) that thing ran AMAZING. I eventually traded it for 2 vehicles. An 84 chevy van with auto trans and a Kawasaki KZ 440. Regretted it afterward though.
@@johnpossum556 😁😁😁😁😁
I have always hot tanked the engines I have rebuilt and knock on wood I have never had issues with cam bearings at all
18:00
Haha who's ever torn an engine down, popped out a freeze plug and you find another in the hole 🤣
I find that often
Nope but I've found a 9/16 wrench in oil pan. Another had a one inch in the valley pan.
I found one in a chevy 400 I tore down this summer. The kid (17) asked what that rattling noise was when he was turning it over on the stand. I laughed and said, "pull the freeze plugs and you'll find out!"
@@graham2631
Wow a one incher 😆
I used to draw smiley faces inside a pan or elsewhere like that.
Inside a frame rail.
Once on a teardown someone used a punch set to stamp fuck you on the side of a main cap.
I was tempted to get the punch set and put "up yours pal" on it 😆
that's the equivalent of tearing a wall down in a house for a quick repair...and finding out why it was so cheap to buy...
I reuse the piston whenever possible too.
This should be a great series! Make us proud Tony! 🤘🏼🔧
Steve from Annapolis keep up the good work you are outstanding you care about people you're a genius I thought I knew a lot a little trick of the trades you're really good with your hands please keep up the good work not many guys like you and me at there anymore Steve from Annapolis
.03 overbore adds 5cid, generally, and .06 adds 10 cid. Its always more about ring seal and ring ridge than displacement or unshrouding a valve.
I'm with you on cam bearings, if they're good leave them alone. However I love a hot tank if the cooling system is real nasty. If you choose to do this however, YOU must wash the hell out of the block yourself, the machine shop will not do a satisfactory job on this. I know U.T. knows this already, just trying to help.my 225 Buick is undergoing a similar rebuild. Thanks Tony!
The average youtube viewer at 1 minute: "Wow! This is just what I was looking for!"
Minute 5: "Pretty good."
Minute 10 listening from kitchen, grabbing some chips: "Okay."
Minute 15: "Squirrel!!!"
The legend Tony Defeo will live on, like an italian automotive Nietzsche.
Tony is doing the world a service in sharing his knowledge. Thank you.
great job!! one add ...it helps to have pad and paper or better yet a cheap little notebook for each engine. Make a lotta notes, check list of what you did like #1 checked left deck, #2 checked left bores, etc. Not so critical at this stage but when you start with the micrometer readings gotta have a table
can't tell you how many times I had to remeasure the first time I mic'd a crank
great point. I used to have an office job where I always had a wall calender. Folks laughed I kept such notes, and I would ask, "who here always remembers your requirements and gets them done the day you need them?"
Can't watch now but saved for when I get a sec. Thank
Definitely good notes for this, especially for my dad who is about to rebuild a 318, hopefully he took notes
318s are great engines ,
Very forgiving engines for first time rebuilds.
Common sense and you'll do just fine.
TONEY U HAVED HELPED ME OUT OF A JAM...THANKS
I'm digging this garage series!
Still the best channel on CZcams hands down
Don't get me wrong, I do enjoy this channel
BUTT
this old tony is way much gooder
@@johnpossum556 you mean his glitter bomb?
yeah those are great.
If I were doing that I'd substitute the glitter with fecal matter infected with the plague, rabies, and aids and then the count-down would be a ligit and end with a LOT of shrapnel and provoke a zombie uprising
So, yeah, maybe I should just watch and leave the engineering of booby-traps to others
hehehe "booby"
what were we talking about?
@@johnpossum556 how is it "rebuilding junk blocks"??? Either the block is usable, or not. So far seems it is. So hes gonna use it. Whats the issue??
This is a great series so far. After many “barn rebuilds” I’m already seeing where we’ve wasted money in the past. Let’s get back to the ol’ days where all us gear heads worked on junk in driveways with zero budget.
Love your videos. Absolute real car talk and tricks from the old school.
Uncle Tony is the best. I was looking forward to watching the crankshaft video. I think I will have to wait.
Never heard of the light around the rings trick pretty interesting
Great video Uncle Tony!👍
Great camera work Uncle Kathy!👍
Really psyched your doing this rebuild! I’ll be paying close attention
Fantastic series Tony- looking forward to the rest!
This video was really good. Will stay tuned for more!
Great video can't wait for the next episode
I wish I lived closer I would love to give you a hand building that beasts I would love to learn from the master uncle Tony
5:54, Thanks for that info.
This series is gonna be amazing!!!
Always loads of great info here! Thank U! Research engine shops prior to leaving ur engine there. Have had some nightmarish dealings with bad machinist that are betting you won't double check their work prior to re assembly! Some things ok for running errands..but not for high power performance. Let the machinist know what ur planning on building. Typically they can offer a lot of assistance..as long as they know what they're doing that is
I swear one day he is going to blow himself up!
He already set himself and the laundry room on fire! I have used gasoline the same way for almost 40 years and never had a problem with it, even use as a hand cleaner sometimes.
If you have access to a steam cleaner or power washer it really cleans up well for rust or after you hone and do any grinding or enlarging of oil passages and returns .
@Rob Not really, maybe 800 grit.😎
@@edge2sword186 i highly recommend hot tanking after any work like that. We would only use sodium bicarbonate when blasting heads because the risk of getting blasting media into a cavity and not getting it out is just not worth it.
@@63jeepj20 Tony has a point about replacing cam bearings when you hot tank an engine
I hate that job because to do it right it takes time and effort to get it right . As far as bread blasting or shot blasting you need to make sure you remove ll the media . Gm factory reps took all the cookies away from all techs because they said the material was getting into the pickups and ruining engines years ago .
Just found this series, and had to say thanks. Takes me way back to rebuilding a Kawasaki 450-4 complete motorcycle from a bunch of milk crates full of parts in an apartment bedroom. The things you do when you're financially challenged.
Great video Tony I never use silicon on core plugs mainly because there was no silicone when I started working on engines and life was good
You can get the block decked to raise compression you zero the deck to the top of the cylinder that way you are bringing the piston closer to the head to raise compression for the one's who want to raise the compression without changing the pistons or heads
Milling the heads is easier in a pinch. I did that once....🤣
Imagine if tony dropped 4 or 5 20 min vids in one day. I wouldn't get any work done
I remember freeing up a 383 once when I was an early teen ..... mouse milk , maple hearts and a 5lb sledge
Uncle Tony uses gasoline on an engine like I use Italian dressing on my chicken salad 😆
1967 forged crank 318. Nice!
I have learned so much watching your videos, but I know the great ones, always make things look easy LOL
Great video ! This is the info I’ve been looking for for a while now.
I KNEW that buzzing sound @ 1:10 sounded familiar and sure enough, you reached over and flipped the switch on Mr. Heater! It was a balmy 9 degrees here last night and my 125k btu heater was very happy about that. I run him on diesel.
Good info, thanks for this series. TP
This is great general info UT. Almost finished a rebuild on a little Vauxhall slant-4 2.0 litre, had to have crank reground and head skimmed. Getting stuff for old GM Vauxhalls over here is a challenge, and they were built here! Wish we could just buy parts off the shelf 😯
Really enjoying this. Thank you.
I love your videos and this one, i wish my school didnt cancel autobody
That's really unfortunate. It makes it more difficult to get into this stuff.
Tony, your practical knowledge is astounding........thanks!
Great stuff
Good Stuff, Tony...I learned..,TY
man... I Love this guy!!!
Thank you guys..I have bought three cars from the 50s. 2 have 302s and one has a 327..I am going to endeavor to build a 302.I have replaced every part of an outside of the motor but never tore one down past the Timing Chain and gears or the heads. Im getting older and looking for an old man hobby so I bought three life size model cars,,,
Thanks as always for the free info, Good series to start..
Keep at It . OI OI OI
Called out the machine shop so now I gotta say something. When someone brings me an engine, my main deciding factors on what we’re gonna do to it are what the engine needs to run again, the horsepower expectations, and how much money the customer is willing to spend. Just last week I had a 2JZ dropped off that’s gonna make 1,000+hp. I’m gonna make that block absolutely perfect. Also, a 300 I6 Ford that this poor gentleman just wants back in his work truck. I’m gonna do the bare minimum and replace the bare minimum. I’ll note that my bare minimum is higher than the garage build because it’s a professional shop after all, can’t cut corners, but I’m never pushing work that doesn’t need to be done.
Where's Mr. "Personally I blame squirrels"? I haven't seen him in the comments lately.
The squirrels finally silenced him.
@@DrewLSsix LOL
He's back.
@@markg7030 I don't see him in the comments!
Well, Nashville did run off the possum and let all them squirrels in..... just saying
Right on
I was waiting for the measurement of the ring gap in that old ring to check for taper and such...It had to be an 1/8th".!!..Pretty well worn I'd say Tony...
Thanx for your advices
When it comes to the crank bore. I look at the wear on the main bearings as I am disassembling the engine. I make sure to keep the bearings in the caps and put them back in place to look at the wear pattern. If you find a spot of wear on the upper bearing it usually indicates that it needs a line hone. If everything looks good then don't touch it.
Great video Thank you!!!
You are great Tony. Talk about the rear cam plug, lifter bores, pipe cleaning brushes and all the pipe plugs, high volume oil pump. Is the high volume oil pump needed? More torque on the factory hex shaft. Talk ring clearances, Rod and Main Clearances.
If your a sbc guy just use a bbc oil pump works great.
Nice video. Not every motor has to be a full tilt expense at the machine shop. Good low budget methods.
Love to see you demonstrate truing a head on a marble slab and wet and paper I've done several atv and dirt bike heads it works on a small head but never seen anyone try a large head
larger head ==> larger surface area ==> better odds of leaning in and ruining the angle of grind.
Good stuff pop
3M Yellow weather stripping adhesive in the sqeeze tube works great to seal freeze plugs . just make sure to clean the block surfaces that the plugs go into and let adhesive fully cure befor adding coolant to the block
Omg dude I love that stuff , I'd marry it if I could.
You can literally glue anything to anything with that stuff.
I've used it to cover off holes on a body for a bumper delete with roof flashing , a pipe thread sealant ,I've forgotten how many gaskets I've put a drop on to hold while installing a cover.
Hahaha , got a hard to reach nut and it keeps falling out of the socket?
3m the bitch.
I could go on and on but it's right in my toolbox on top of the zip ties and duct tape.
And another really cool thing too, is it works about as good as blue medium strength loctite.
Ever seen loctite corrode threads, well the 3m wont do that.
And as a plus if you're using a large amount, it'll give you a nice buzz.
It's a win-win.
@@MrTheHillfolk yep . the only thing is you dont want to over do it on the adhesive when puttimg these freeze plugs because it runs almost like snot . I swab the surface the put a light coat on the side of the freeze plug then tap it in once its installed it creates a sealant ring behind the plug between the block and the plug
@@MoparMan-ff8fb
Yea get it in there while it's wet.
That's what she said 😂
It helps it go in easier and when it sets up it's sealed.
It makes a decent sealer for little knicks and scratches.
I got a tube at the house for house stuff 😁
You can seal just about anything with that stuff.
Nice...ive got a tube of that...and no weatherstripping to glue!!! 🤣 ill be doing core plugs sooner n more often than weatherstrip LOL
Since some posters asked and I have my book out to look...check the ID pad by the front of the valley cover on your small block Mope. An "A" at the end means it was overbored .02o at the factory rather than get sent back to the forge. A "B" means mains/rods are .01 inch undersize. An iron cross means crank journals are .001 inch undersize (number 3 counterweight will have an R or M for rod or main). A four sided diamond means the lifter bore is .008 oversize.
That motor looks like it is from the 60'swith the red paint and the look of the piston tops with the valve reliefs looks like a couple of 64 2 barrel Dart 273's I built in 1970 when 340's cost too much if you could even find them
Uncle Tony, Mcclouds auto salvage in Portland tn has a couple of slant 6 engines but I don't know the size one is in a 67 belvedere convertible that is being parted out
Thank you
Haha we rebuilt many engines in kitchens and friends apartments. Getting the damn thing out of the kitchen was harder than building the engine, 😆 haha
You're awesome!
Tony´s comments are always briljant: "the machine shop have never meet a surface that not needs to be redone" :D
true, but its not only $$. I met a mechanic who spent all day on wheel alignment. Thought he was brilliant to be so dedicated. I pointed at the potholes in the driveway (apparently he rented) and asked what happened to all his work the second the customer blasted thru those. He just smiled in response (and finally went out of biz a few years later)
some people are too anal for reality.
I've checked blocks the same way. I use a square pane on tempered glass with a full sheet off emery cloth.
I do the same when I sharpen the blades/plates on my meat grinder.
Glass is an ideal cheap surface plate. A 12*12 piece is great for checking pushrod straightness.
Well said
Back in the day pistons were knurled after a big honing. Piston sides would be waffled to displace material and increase the OD.
While moving the rings around with a feeler gauge check the gap.Measure the top, middle and bottom. If you have 005 difference between you should consider how rich you are.
Rod angularity may cause more wear in the center.
Good Stuff!!!!!!!!!!!
Just a tip. Go to the Chinese tool store...and get some lights . You need to brighten up your garage/shop a bit. Make for better video quality. Anyway looking forward to this series.
NeverMind....my iphone was too dim😳
You can always use more light when filming.
Unless maybe whatever you're taking pictures of is on fire.
Sometimes i wish I could work with my crew in a garage where we have good time, work on client cars, make our own project cars, and have fun.. wow..
I really wish this video had been out when I did the head gasket on my car and a friend's car. While, it is rare for Honda engines to need their decks surfaced, the sanding trick and straight edge would have been a nice way to know the block was truly clean and the deck was good. But, now I know what to do when I take my new to me high compression B18A1 apart to double check everything since it has been sitting for a couple of years now unused and I want to make sure its good.
If i remember correctly....your Honda has an open deck.
@@albertgaspar627 It is open deck, but there are times that, if the engine has been overheated, things can shift around and I wish I had thought about checking my deck to see if everything was ok before I did the head gasket on my engine. That said, been nearly 4 years now since I had to replace the head gasket, and its been fine, so, I am pretty sure the deck was good. The car I most recently did a head gasket on though, I know it was overheated at least twice in a two week period, so I wish I could have checked the deck on it. But, in the month it was driven after the gasket was replaced, it didn't leak... till the damn kid totaled the car.
@@Carstuff111 yeah it is funny how a block that has seen miles is "Seasoned", but overheating doesn't help a thing. Like you said, tho, when you are in the middle of tearing something apart, its a great time to check everything out. Its probably why folks wonder why I take longer to do a job :)
that said, some of the shortcuts i see in some of these videos, i save for my lawn mower.
@@albertgaspar627 I am slowly rebuilding my car, and I have been helping friends with theirs, I take my time and make sure things are done right with what I have.
@@Carstuff111 I hear what you are saying. There is a lot of space between "paralysis of analysis" at one end of the spectrum, where someone reads everything they can about a repair before they jump in, and the other end, where "a little bit of knowledge is dangerous" and someone gets in over their head and repairs the same issue over and over.
"I'll take care of that later!" story. 22 kids built a show car. On the first start we eventually realized no one put bolts in the flywheel.