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Building a Freestanding Climbing Wall
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
- Use the links below to skip to what you may be interested in about building a freestanding woody.
In this video I go into detailed discussion about the things I learnt a long the way and had to consider when building my freestanding climbing woody. If you just want to see the build, check out the timelapse of the build I did in this video: • Building a Freestandin...
I'm going to do a further episode on routes I've set, and holds that I've been using.
CONTENTS
WHY BUILD YOUR OWN WOODY
01:10 WHY: CONVENIENCE
01:58 WHY: COST
02:35 WHY: ROUTESETTING PRIVILAGES
02:59 WHY: NO CROWDS, TRAIN WITH FOCUS
DESIGNING YOUR WOODY
04:15 DESIGN: WHICH ANGLE?
05:29 DESIGN: WHY I WENT WITH 40 DEGREES
06:24 DESIGN: KICKER OR NO KICKER?
07:54 DESIGN: THE FREESTANDING FRAME
MATERIALS
10:04 MATERIALS
10:28 MATERIALS: TIMBER
11:35 MATERIALS: PLYWOOD
12:33 MATERIALS: T-NUTS
14:51 MATERIALS: FASTENERS
15:31 MATERIALS: WOOD SCREWS
TOOLS
16:09 TOOLS: DRILL
16:34 TOOLS: MITRE SAW
OTHER
18:37 HOLE SPACING
TIPS
19:51 TIPS: DRILLING HOLES
20:42 TIPS: HOLDS ON FRAME
21:33 THANKS
Some external resources that might help you in the build;
Link to a basic design of this board in a google sketchup file drive.google.com/file/d/1dAvf...
Anderson Bros on Designing your own training wall (has great hold recommendations) - rockclimberstrainingmanual.co...
A great tip for anyone still doing these: Don't hammer in your T-Nuts - Just lightly tap them in so the teeth on the back bite into the wood, then use a hold and bolt to gently pull the T-Nut into the timber. This way you minimise potential damage to the T-Nut and also make sure the T-Nut is placed straight into the timber. The last thing you want to do is have wonky/angled T-Nuts that are a pain to thread into (Often resulting in stripped out T-Nuts).
Thanks so much for running through your thought process in detail! Looking at building a moonboard with some additional holds to add flexibility. Helps a lot to hear your thoughts. Nice build!
Thanks for the thoughtful tips and details!
Thanks so much for this mate! Super useful!
ASTROS!! MY BOIEEEE
Love the content sir! I’m curious what the spacing on your grid is. Thank you sir
Hi, I'm planning on building my own freestanding board and I'm wondering: when you talk about a 40° inclination you mean from the floor, or from the vertical? Basically, your board is steeper than a 45° board or not?
From vertical, whenever someone discusses a wall angle, they're referring to from vertical, so 15 deg, 30 deg, 40 deg are increasing in the amount they are overhanging as the number increases.
Thanks for the video. We are looking to build an outdoor climbing wall in Canberra. We have bought a set of Metolius holds but the fastenings appear to be indoor rated. Grateful advice on where you can get stainless steel T-nuts and bolts. Cheers Mike
Hey Mike, Im not sure on stainless to be honest. I bought mine from climbinganchors - maybe email them?
It looks like you have the studs spaced at 24" with 3/4" +/- plywood? Do you find that the supports are close enough to prevent the plywood from over flexing? I'm planning a similar size wall, but can't decide on what stud spacing to use (probably somewhere between 16" and 24"). Great video btw, one of the best resources I've found.
Thanks Geoff, I tried my best to answer all the little questions I had that no other resources answered. As for the studs, mine are 600mm (24 inches) apart, with the exception of the last, which is 500mm, as I have a 2900mm wide board to fit the space in the garage. Minimal flex was pretty important for me, and I can only detect the slightest flex on really big mega jugs that lever off the board. I could probably position them closer to the studs to eliminate that. Other than that, it's rock solid.
Anyone know where I can get some relatively cheap holds. I don’t need more than like 40
Gyms will usually have a bunch of holds laying around that are old and cheap - but they are usually worn out with little grip.
For a spinning t-nut you can put in a couple of nails or screws against the notches on the flange. It's not a perfect fix but useful in some situations
That's a good tip. I've just been removing them, or trying to. Any tips on pulling the dud ones out? I've been using a pair of pliers and getting my wife to hold the t-nut in place so I can remove the spinner.
No good solution I'm for that I'm afraid, unless you go the destructive route and chop off the bolt head and bash the whole thing out. Not ideal or even practical, but satisfying.
Thanks for the video.
Cool Video! The K's are messed up on your subtitles, not sure if you knew? An Impact Driver is great for screwing on your ply, pre drilling it with a smart bit (drills and countersinks) will make screwing it on easier. I finished mine, glad you suggested moving the posts out if possible, feels spacious.
Thanks, yeah TBH I didn't check that and then saw it when I watched it through on YT. I think because I'm using a non-standard font, it does it during the render. It took so long to upload though, so I'll probably not go back and reupload at this point.
Can you link photos of your finished wall? I'd be eager to see it.
jacksonclimbs
FB message you, have seen you on Melb rock climbing page.
Awesome, should head out bouldering sometime! Did you go to Grampians Bouldering Festival?
So did you just screw into the end grain for the 2x4s for the main wall studs? Just checking as I'm knew to all this and you said you didnt use nails.
I'm not sure which point you mean - for the blocking in between the beams?
Where did you get your holds?
Most of the holds are from e-grips, and a couple of sets from kilter grips.
Are you still happy with the 40 degree wall? I have 9ft ceilings in my garage and was about to go 45 or 55 so I could maximize the use of off the shelf plywood dimensions. Are you still happy with the kicker height?
Yeah I'm happy with the kicker height. To be honest, I've climbed on 45/55 walls, and they just become jug hauls - if I had 9 foot I probably would have gone with a 35 degree wall . Have you been able to test out those angles at gyms or at other walls yet?
In an ideal world - I'd have a 40 deg moonboard, and a 15 degree wall with about 12 foot of height - extra long.
@@jetjaxon I've been playing with the geometry I have and to have it fit nicely in my extended 3rd car bay, the angle would be a 23 degree wall. (without extending the bay at the top) I have 9.5 feet of width to work with. 23 degrees on a 9 ft wall would be about 9.5 ft. Seems like not enough vertical space, though a 35 degree wall gets me an extra 1.5 feet. I could finish the top of a 23 degree wall with holds on the ceiling, but I might be pushing into a light fixture by trying that on a 35 degree wall. It raised a question: is there an angle that is too considered too vertical?
@@Matthew1028 I wouldn't go beyond 40. 35 is good. Doesnt sound like you would get enough travel on the board at ~25. Less than 15 I'd say is too vertical.
Great looking wall!.I'm looking at building something similar and had a couple quick questions if you don't mind:
Firstly, how did you attach the the base of the frame to the kickboard? Did you use sort of connector or just toe in some screws?
Secondly, do you find yourself using the holds on the top of the frame at all? I'm wondering if it would make sense to install the header board at an angle to the studs instead. This would save a few a vertical inches that could go towards climbing surface. I've only got about 7'8" vertical to work with so need to do everything possible to maximize wall space.Thanks!
Hi mate, I used joist hangers to attach the angled wall to the base. If that is what you mean?
The actual frame itself is attached to the 'kicker box' on the inside, with a couple of angle brackets.
If you check out my channel and sort through the videos, you will find a video where I talk for 20-30 minutes about various aspects of the build. I use the holds on top of the wall, but tbh, I can almost hang off just the wood as a sloper, so the holds don't need to be much up there. I like your idea of installing the header board at an angle - I'd do that if I did it again - however, you would need to be able to cut the length of the header board with an angled saw that I just don't have. Given your limited height - anything would help.
Sorry didn't realise that you were commenting on the longer video I did.
In case your asking about the base of the frame connecting to the kicker box - at 6:45, I'm essentially just using a couple of 3/8 fasteners screwed through blocking on the base.
@@jetjaxon Thanks for the info! When I said frame I actually meant the wall itself...sorry for the confusion. At 1:20 of the timelapse you stand up the wall and attach it to the frame. I'm wondering how the base of the wall (the angled studs) are attached to the kicker box.
@@tri77ion Ahh yeah, they are attached with joist hangers.
I'm currently looking into building this out in Ferntree Gully. I have a backyard and so I can go higher, would love to know if you could shed some light on my ideas to make sure i don't repeat any first time mistakes.
If you can, build your wall to meet the moonboard specification. Even if you cannot afford the holds or wish to buy the holds now, having the option to change it to a moonboard in future is probably a great idea. You can always shoot me a note on Instagram and we can chat about it @jacksonclimbing
Take your time. The better it turns out the more you will want to use it and show it off.
@jacksonclimbs is right. Build it to moonboard spec and use the holds you have for now.
It's fun to try the moonboard routes on non moon board holds.
Here is my moonboard, at the time of the video I only had the original set.
czcams.com/video/3CEbbZQhb0w/video.html
How much did you spend on the holds?
About 1200 US
What's the height, width and length of your frame?
I can't recall the height as I've rebuilt it at my new house. It was 2900 wide, with 2900 travel, 40 degrees with a 17cm kicker. If you use a right angle triangle calculator you'll be able to get the other dimensions if you need.
So when you said you spent 1800 on this, im assuming thats including the 1200 on the holds? 😂 and any favorites hold companies?
TBH I cannot recall anymore, but that definitely does not include holds. Favorite hold companies are E Grips, and Kilter, although the latter are fairly expensive. Mostly I have E Grips.
Can this be built outside
I wouldn't build a board without putting some type of shelter on top to stop it getting wet. There are a bunch of people that have put covers on their boards, so completely doable.
You also want to minimise the exposure of your climbing holds to direct sunlight. The PU will age really quickly from the direct UV exposure if you don't.
@@jetjaxon thanks!
So to bother you again but I didn’t find out where you got your holds
They are mostly e-grips, with some kilter grips and stealth feet :)
$1800 on that wall. Wow, you guys get taken for a ride over there eh!
Timber isn't cheap in Australia, but also, I didn't buy the cheapest material. Still cheaper than gym membership, which is $40 AUD or circa $30 USD per week
@@jetjaxon yeah its definitely cheaper than membership, I'm building an 8x8 wall in the uk, paid £180 so far and other than a couple miscellaneous bits should be pretty much there, I went with 2x4 for the frame and 2x6 for the wall supports. Still undecided about grid or offset holes though...
@@damiensmith8351 Yeah, If I did mine again, I'd do the 120 x 240 panels in moon spacing on the bolts just so it could be used on the moonboard.
@@jetjaxon yeah doing mine on the moon spacing, dont have the height yet but good to have the option if I ever do. Thanks for the video, was a good reference point and got some good ideas from it.