I was a novice one month ago. After your videos I'm a beginner. Ha ha I have a suggestion for a new video that I can't find on the web. Our ProMaster high van received $25k of damage to the front/top in a hail storm. That price left the undamaged but seven year old sides and back as is! There were 75 small deep dents per square foot and even cracked paint. Pdr was rejected by every shop. The "only solution was to replace the hood, windshield, lights, cowling and the body assy above the hood. That last part meant the removal of lots of interior RV stuff. I figured I'd take the $25k and do a good enough job with rattle cans and have the whole van wrapped for $3.5k. I did the job in three learning sections: the first two based on versions of your body filler videos. I'm sharing the third and easiest methed in shorthand. * Disk sand everywhere with 180 grit * Rotary wire brush down to metal every pit revealed by the sanding * 80 sand the exposed metal * Taper out edges of 80 grit with 180 grit. * Apply thin coats of upol gold where needed * Sand, prime and paint.
Darn. I was hoping you would be demonstrating with the Element in the background. Im waiting on my Raptor Liner in the mail & trying to soak up as many tips & tricks as I can before trying a DIY on my whole Element. Thanks for the simple & clear instructions.
Thanks for this Chris, if you remember I was having problems repairing small dents and could always see a low spot where the dent was, you told me I'm probably putting to much pressure onto the block which I am plus I can see from this video that I'm also over sanding the filler so not getting a nice feathered edge, more practice is needed me thinks🙄 my painting is fine it's just my filling and blocking that lets me down. Thanks again🙏👍John UK
@@GarageNoise Quite the contrary, I appreciate you making your videos, thanks to your videos I dared to learn how to paint my daughter's first car, she thinks I already sold it and when I'm done I want to surprise her. It has been difficult to learn. right and wrong and I can only say that what you do is an art, thanks for encouraging many to do it
Love the stuff. I use it to fill small dents in my RC planes because it is so easy to mix, and it spreads really nice. I use Polyfiber SuperFil for larger areas to save weight.
Hello like watching your videos I use the same icing can you just sand with 80 grit and not go to bare metal and have know worries about the icing losing adhesive thanks for any suggestions
The technical data sheet says 180 but I think 80 would be fine. Look over the tds you can Google it. If I'm going over paint with Icing, which I don't like to do, then I sand with 180.
If the car has a bunch of door dings I like to do 80 or 180 with a small circle of 320 round that then I use regular body filler some decent kind and a decent brand like some Evercoat buy 320 waterblock it therefore when you hit the body you don't put rough 180 or rougher scratches in the body as soon as it's blocked out true and straight it's ready for prime or seal and paint you also get too wet check as your water blocking to make sure it's dead laser straight
I quit using the different glazing type putty's years ago icing easy sand dolphin glaze you name it a lot of dieback for example you'd have round circles eventually like two years later or it shrank back and you have another ding
Well, we know everything shrinks so there's always that chance. I haven't experienced what your referring to with glaze. Appreciate the comment and support!
Hey Chris, currently painting my truck for the first using your videos as a guide. Currently have it all in high build primer but see a few low spots since putting the primer. Do I need to sand before adding usc icing? Or can I apply right on? Thanks so much for all the videos
It is A business. I enjoy the work but I also like to get paid and if it was a different color I would have to blend into another panel and it could be hours more work and what if there's a dent on that panel? So on and so on. You unfortunately have to draw the line somewhere. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
I was a novice one month ago. After your videos I'm a beginner. Ha ha
I have a suggestion for a new video that I can't find on the web. Our ProMaster high van received $25k of damage to the front/top in a hail storm. That price left the undamaged but seven year old sides and back as is!
There were 75 small deep dents per square foot and even cracked paint. Pdr was rejected by every shop. The "only solution was to replace the hood, windshield, lights, cowling and the body assy above the hood. That last part meant the removal of lots of interior RV stuff. I figured I'd take the $25k and do a good enough job with rattle cans and have the whole van wrapped for $3.5k.
I did the job in three learning sections: the first two based on versions of your body filler videos. I'm sharing the third and easiest methed in shorthand.
* Disk sand everywhere with 180 grit
* Rotary wire brush down to metal every pit revealed by the sanding
* 80 sand the exposed metal
* Taper out edges of 80 grit with 180 grit.
* Apply thin coats of upol gold where needed
* Sand, prime and paint.
Sounds like a project, your process seems solid. 👊
I find it great to fill pinholes. Was always a bit reluctant to use it as primary filler, even on a small dent.
Darn. I was hoping you would be demonstrating with the Element in the background. Im waiting on my Raptor Liner in the mail & trying to soak up as many tips & tricks as I can before trying a DIY on my whole Element. Thanks for the simple & clear instructions.
GOOD JOB!!!!
👍
Thanks for this Chris, if you remember I was having problems repairing small dents and could always see a low spot where the dent was, you told me I'm probably putting to much pressure onto the block which I am plus I can see from this video that I'm also over sanding the filler so not getting a nice feathered edge, more practice is needed me thinks🙄 my painting is fine it's just my filling and blocking that lets me down.
Thanks again🙏👍John UK
I remember, happy the videos are helping brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
Looking great, nice explanation of what you are doing!
Thanks!
Love the tips and tricks thanks Chris 👍
Thank's Roger! Appreciate the comment!
This is great information for after a hail storm.; and you don't want to invest a lot in the car. great video as always
Thank's brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise Quite the contrary, I appreciate you making your videos, thanks to your videos I dared to learn how to paint my daughter's first car, she thinks I already sold it and when I'm done I want to surprise her. It has been difficult to learn. right and wrong and I can only say that what you do is an art, thanks for encouraging many to do it
New subscriber, thank you for the helpful tips
Welcome to the channel! Appreciate the support!
Love the stuff. I use it to fill small dents in my RC planes because it is so easy to mix, and it spreads really nice. I use Polyfiber SuperFil for larger areas to save weight.
Great tip!
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
👌🏽 nice one buddy! I needed this video, helped me Big time ,thanks again 🔥💯✊🏽
Glad I could help!
I think this little dent would duable with PDR...
Probably but I don't do PDR and the door needed to be painted. Appreciate the comment brother!
Good video
Thanks
Hello like watching your videos I use the same icing can you just sand with 80 grit and not go to bare metal and have know worries about the icing losing adhesive thanks for any suggestions
The technical data sheet says 180 but I think 80 would be fine. Look over the tds you can Google it. If I'm going over paint with Icing, which I don't like to do, then I sand with 180.
If the car has a bunch of door dings I like to do 80 or 180 with a small circle of 320 round that then I use regular body filler some decent kind and a decent brand like some Evercoat buy 320 waterblock it therefore when you hit the body you don't put rough 180 or rougher scratches in the body as soon as it's blocked out true and straight it's ready for prime or seal and paint you also get too wet check as your water blocking to make sure it's dead laser straight
Absolutely, sounds like a good process. Appreciate the comment and support!
I quit using the different glazing type putty's years ago icing easy sand dolphin glaze you name it a lot of dieback for example you'd have round circles eventually like two years later or it shrank back and you have another ding
Well, we know everything shrinks so there's always that chance. I haven't experienced what your referring to with glaze. Appreciate the comment and support!
That is some good stuff
Appreciate it brother!
Can you do this for "mapping"? I have some mapping on a front door that looks terrible
Looking great🌹🖐
Thank you 😊
Hey Chris, currently painting my truck for the first using your videos as a guide. Currently have it all in high build primer but see a few low spots since putting the primer. Do I need to sand before adding usc icing? Or can I apply right on? Thanks so much for all the videos
Sand for sure where ever your apply icing 180 grit. Appreciate your comment and support!
Great well explained video, what spray gun are you using ?
Right now I'm using the R500 it's a lvlp paint gun. I've got some great videos on it. Appreciate the comment and support
I would fix the dents regardless of the color. I don't paint over dents!!
It is A business. I enjoy the work but I also like to get paid and if it was a different color I would have to blend into another panel and it could be hours more work and what if there's a dent on that panel? So on and so on. You unfortunately have to draw the line somewhere. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
I thought you had to go down to metal to make the filler stick, or it would blow apart.
Good question I would like to know as well
😮😮😮😮