I wetsanded/polished Spray.Bike |Results will SHOCK you|
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2021
- Shocking.
If you click on this link I get 5 cents, buy something I get $5:
www.jensonusa.com/#spindatt
Here's all the stuff I used:
Rubbing Compound (This is the BEST part):
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Polishing Compound:
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Wax Protectant:
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=======Rock Hopper Build======
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======Rawstercross Build=======
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========Ritchey Parts=========
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========Panaracer Tires=======
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=========Jenson USA=========
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==========Tools=============
Allen Keys: amzn.to/2FPBXgV
Screwdrivers: amzn.to/2pfBKxp
Metric Wrenches: amzn.to/2HG9jiS
Tire Levers: amzn.to/2DyUc8g
Cable Cutters: amzn.to/2pfDAhS
Chain Breaker: amzn.to/2FZZa3d
Chain Whip: amzn.to/2tUdXI3
Cassette Tool: amzn.to/2pi9k4Y
Spoke Wrench: amzn.to/2FPCorz
Crank Puller: amzn.to/2plgK8g
Square Taper Socket: amzn.to/2plgK8g
Bottom Bracket Tool: amzn.to/2HFkmsv
Cheeeeap Tool Kit: amzn.to/2FG9MRs
![Spray.Bike [Long Time Listener, First Time Caller]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GtVKYwXJtQA/mqdefault.jpg)
As a note, I typically get 3 coats out of 2 cans of clear. The most durable and best finish I got was on my Gary Fisher paragon where I did all the steps and did 6 coats of clear with regular wet sanding. It’s been a year since and the bike has taken a good beating and is still holding up really well. Also, the clear takes a good 2 weeks in dry Utah weather before it feels fully cured to me.
Hey oldshovel big fan here. Just curious what you mean by all the steps. Also do you have a in-depth tutorial on your page about pairing for a durable result with spray.bike? I’m getting some shipped because of your videos haha
@@evisorator123 @oldshovel yeah I've been looking for this myself
Your video on using rattle cans to paint frames is a huge help. I have a frame project where I plan to rattle can it too. Thanks Eric.
Great video being honest about what went right and what went wrong. That said the finish looks great and really getting close to taking the plunge to have a go at this.🚲
Best spray.bike walk through I've seen so far. Thanks
Well thank you!
........... though, OTHER far cheaper automotive spray cans are available, and will work just as well, You're welcome!
@@gregtaylor6146 can you name a few?
@@pietrop.7770 - Go to your local DIY/ auto-parts store, select ANY spray enamel .... THAT one.
Your wooden bike stand, using a broomstick, is a brilliant solution for those of us who can t afford a Park stand. Great idea!
Well done! The hard part really is waiting all those hours for the paint to dry.
It really is!
The best tool in any paint job is patience! The more time the paint gets to harden, the less chance of wet sanding it off or burning through it.
That turned out great, I like that blue! Nice work.
I like it, it looks good!
I put 2 1/2 cans of clear on mine, and I'm just going to leave the runs in it. I have decals under my clear, and I won't take any chance of burning through it.
Maybe next year I'll look at it again...
Dude...I need to wait and watch your channel after about my second cup of coffee! LOL! This is the first video of your's that I have watched, but have heard OldShovel mention you several times, so I guess that I came into it expecting your video to be like his videos. You are just a TAD bit more hyper than he is! LMBO! Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed, immensely and am going to subscribe as soon as I finish this comment, I'll just have to be sure to at least have my first cup of coffee in hand next time! Awesome info, great job editing! I really did enjoy it and learned a few tricks that I plan to use going forward with some builds that I have in the works! Thanks for sharing!
¡¡Wow!! The before and after shots, excellent! 🤩 Thanks for sharing 🍻
Looks awesome! I just finished painting and clear coating a bike with Spray Bike paint and clear coat and I am looking forward to sanding and polishing to see if I can get a similar finish to what you have. How long did you let the clear coat cure before sanding it? I am anxious to get started but don't want to make a mess of it because I didn't let it cure long enough.
Looks really good, reminds me of 90's Cannondale blue. It can add up getting this stuff in Canada by the time you buy the paint, clear coat and primer. So getting it powdercoated may make more sense for a single colour finish.
Powdercoat is the work of the devil and THE best way to remove ANY residual value from a vintage frame.
I sanded down my fork crown and lowers this year and sprayed with NAPA’s 2K white and 2K clear. Was night and day more durable and better coverage . Was easily able to wet sand it out without burning thru. Also the 2K has the hardener in it to help protect from rock chips a bit more.
Loved the tutorial and has great info!
Be really careful with that stuff. Catalyzed clear can kill you without the proper mask (not a normal mask, need the organic vapours one)
I got excited thinking that was my old Concorde Kudu leaning on the green bin for a second but mine didn’t say “lite”. Same color though!
This is the first time I've seen a 'Spray.bike' paint job look shiny. That said, I rather use whatever color I like from Home Depot or wherever, and finish with 2k paint.
Good, good choice to go with 2K. 1K just doesn't cure hard enough and it's always a disappointment to me
yeah, i think this finish is pretty well achievable with any paint, but the spray from the colour in the spray.bike was very nice to work with
@Bobby C I hate to say that I do agree with you on that point. However, to their credit, they do say that they specifically go for that because they like the idea of easily being able to take paint off and do a totally different design
2K paint gives off some very nasty toxic fumes, bad for you ....equally bad for the environment.
That's actually much, much better than I would have expected. Easy to get used to the usual dull, matt finished bikes on insta so expectations were low
Yeah I’ve always been disappointed at the lack of finishing most Spray.bike projects seem to have. Like they are REAALLY cool looking, but the flat, rough, powdery finish always puts me off.
I had to know... is it just that no one cares to do the work/don’t know better or.. will it just not finish properly. It totally does though!
@@Spindatt Ya, I think there is certainly an argument for the general aesthetic that the matt finish has, Squid have it nailed but some of the projects do disappoint when they leave them looking unfinished or no better than a quick, cheap fix.
I think this video has definitely changed my opinion of it in a big way! It looks better than a lot of the low to mid range production bikes..... Actually tempted to try it out now seeing the results
Maybe apply paint in thin coats instead of 1 thick coat, will help it go further nand give it a better shine right off. Looks like a great improvrment in this bike... great job.
Did the clear in 3 thins coats! Thanks!
Really great job. Time to try to do the same on my old bike. 😉
Yep you can just clear coat that top tube again and RE do it! Also yep spray paint takes much longer to stay. I would honestly wait a couple weeks!
At least clear coat is the last stage so you could probly just get another can and fix it up later with another coat if it bugs you. I'm going to do my first try too soon, got some yellow-orange base color with gold keirin flake clear coat. Curious how the flakes look in person.
Can’t wait to see this in person! ☺️
soooooon
Very nice job!
Aren't the rpm's on those (non-variable speed) orbitals too much for buffing work? That could be why you burned through.
I think you've done a cracking job. Looks awesome 👍
Thank you!
I’ve seen 2k hardener clearcoat with good results and likely more durable.
How do you know when your done sanding with the different grits? Are you just trying to scuff it a little with the three different grits?
If you are painting a frame 2 different colors, do you typically (wet) sand between colors?
After the polish could you add decals ? Or would they have issues adhering ?
I've got a 1990s Dyno BMX I'm working on. I've got Rustoleum rust reformer that I've applied first . I'll follow with Rustoleum primer before adding my Purple Krylon, followed by Krylon clear.
800 is way to coarse for this application.. start with 1200, 1500 and then jump straight to 2000 with very minimal pressure on all three grits and minimal passes (but spend the most time with the 2000) .. objective is to smooth the very top coat and that is it
Nice job, too bad you burned through the clear. Next time use a spray can 2 part clear, you can pick it up any auto parts paint store. It will turn out awesome with not a lot of finishing left. I refinished a pair of SRAM Force cranks and they looked like new and shinny as heck!
Wow that's the best spray.bike result I have seen
Is it possible to do this with vinyl decals under the clear? I'm doing some velocals with 2K spraymax epoxy clear on top - I guess I would just have to do 4-6 thin coats of clear?
spraymax 2K clear from is rock solid. Its automotive grade and comes in a can.
Damn, now I wish I would have wet sanded my bike. Looking Shiny!!!
you still can!
What would you recomend the number of coats of clear to properly protect you paint job
Super nice!!!
Wow! Looks unbelievable! Didn't you use a lacquer before polishing?
That's some great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Lol love the Crazy energy, dude you rock.
Tempted to repaint my 2008 Opus bike...looks good 👍
My first serious mountain bike came with a really nice paint job from the factory, so I've been scared to ding it up, and am only starting to accept the scratches. If I build a mountain bike someday, I think I'll intentionally avoid trying to make the paint job perfect just so I don't obsess over keeping it nice.
Next time around, I would definitely use 2K (2-component) clear coat as it will harden up much better than regular 1K clear will. The 1K clear will never cure as hard as the 2K and I regret using the 1K on the carbon forks I've restored
pretty sold on the 2K clear idea
Audible WOW! on the reveal from me. Nice!
Awesome, good job. Just a guess but maybe gravity was your enemy on not having enough clear coat on the top of the tubes.
If I remember right rubbing compound is super aggressive stuff. I think most times for wet sanding a polish was usually enough.
It might be trying something like ScratchX instead?
i suppose in this case the rubbing compound acted as my 2000-3000 grit wet sand haha
Nice work! Do you have enough faith in it that you would do the same on a nearly new bike?
Well done
Cool tutorial! What do you think would have happened if you'd sprayed on that 2nd can of clear coat over the dulled, wet sanded surface? Rather than going with just the rubbing compoud?
I should have just done another coat in general. but a coat over the scuffed surface probably would have polished fine
That colour... Bayswater blue? That's what I used on my old Bianchi last year. And yeah, this stuff takes quite a while to harden/cure.
Hey man! can you make a playlist of your building/painting/customizing vids? would be pretty cool, love your content! keep it up
the tinker tuesday playlist is pretty good!
@@Spindatt haha i didnt explore it before asking, cheers! thanks and sorry for bothering
Hey, Did you wet sand and polish before the clear coat or after. i love the result, it looks awesome
All wet sanding took place after clearcoat
i definitely gotta do my bike this summer
Wow! I want to try this!
Totally should! Sanding down runs on clear coat is very satisfying
Awesome
what the best way to make a stand for spraying mountain bikes
Great job! That's just an orbital sander 😁 the random ones are the square bottomed ones.
I own five random orbital sanders and they’re all round…
Finishing sander is the square bottomed one actually 😎
Looks really good, I like that blue a lot. I hope you will bring the bike back for a show and tell once its all put back together ?
I've got the parts to put it together in the shop!
@@Spindatt beauty. Love me some steel Konas
Wow wow that looks good two 👍 👍
Excellent job well done.
Thank you!
What did you think of Monaco this weekend? Poor Bottas AGAIN haha
Yes a shame for bottas. Thankfully championship still on with verstappen win!
If doing multiple coats of clear, do you wet sand between coats?
No I just knocked everything down after all clear was applied. That seemed to be the consensus on paint forums that I read as well.
It was actually pretty satisfying sanding down some of the bigger runs of clear and just seeing it all come out level ready to be polished. Loved that.
If you have any drips, you should sand them down, ideally waiting a day or two before trying to sand the drip down. Then keep spraying being extra careful to not spray too heavy and develop drips again
Good effort
Thanks🤗🙌🏻🙏🏻 inspiring
How long would it take you to strip all the parts off a bike, do this process, and build it back up? I really want to show my bike some love but can’t be without my transportation for more than a day or two.
If its a single speed it shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes to strip to bare frame if you haven't done it before. Build is pretty quick as well. Obviously it will take more time with geared bike but you should be fine to do it in a day
Painting process is taking about 2-3 days tho
I agree with what Karol has replied
You started with to low of a grit. It would have gone with 1500, 2000, 3000 grit. Also how many coats of clear did you apply?
Also I usually leave the frame to harden for at least a week.
Yes, though the 800 really helped knock the runs down which was a huge plus. 3 thin coats of clear. To do it again, I'd like to have two cans worth of clear as i mentioned. That way, much less chance of burning through!
Whats the proper bike with the engine? Looks cool...
only YOU can get excited over wet sanding. But I ask, why not clear coat after all the sanding? It seals and protects the paint and allows the wax to protect something.
Ok, i just heard that you only used 1 can of clear.....
Results, I'd say looks pretty good, right? What I've always wondered with "non-factory"/home paint jobs (no matter how thorough) is how it SURVIVES over time...rocks, road detritus, life in general! Beat up the bike after the build and let us know! Peace.
2K is the only way to go
They can be fairly durable, but not really coming close to the longevity of powdercoat or 2K finishes. I've seen factory jobs from bikes from the 90s that were also fairly weak, so this homemade one here could possibly be better in that case.
@@Exgrmbl - Powdercoat???? sure, if you want your beloved frame to rust away unseen ....beneath a thin veneer of plastic.
@spindatt was 3:00 a preview of a future project?!
Good job!! After the polish it almost looks like my custom Powdercoated Surly Pacer gravelbike now. 💙👌
............ yeah, on the SURFACE it does! give it a while, and that nasty plastic 'veneer' - which has a differing coefficient of expansion to the underlying frame surface - WILL 'delaminate' from it allowing a nice moist void in which rust will thrive, unseen. Enjoy it ...... while you can? 👌
Yep, this is the sight to repaint mg uncle's bike (which the only bike I currently use). 20$ won't hurt just for some spray paint and other things right? 😂
Sickkk
Sweet mustache bro!
Thanks!
Should I buy this beautiful Specilized merz sequoia l found online even though I Don’t need it ? 🤣🤣
Just used spray.bike for the first time and the results are amazing, I also grew a moustache after using spray.bike - bizarre.
the similarities are unreal hahah
who the hell is dislinking these videos?? :/
5:12 definitely can related to that lol
Next time use a 2K clear. MUCH stronger, much more shine and better to wetsand and polish if needed.
I'm so """SHOCKEDD""" I can't even talk anymore.....Ahhhh!!!!
What frame is that?
Friend of mines kona paddywagon
Call me nuts, but I kinda like the non glossy look you get after wet sand
Nuts!
Nice 👌🏻
Like glass!
2K clear coat gives a great finish but it is scary bad for you, I would say you have achieved the same outcome with a tad more elbow grease.
I don’t know what 2K clear coat is hahah
But thank you
@@Spindatt it's a two pack in a can so it looks great but it's highly toxic. ☠️
Your the bike king. I bet you dream about biking when you sleep. 😏
But Old Shovel makes it look so easy on his channel.
lol over time i'd say it does get easy!
Oldshovel is an excellent painter but he doesn’t wet sand and polish therefore his finished product still looks fuzzy and dull, wet sand and polish is a must if you want a professional shiny finish
Noice and Smoove!
This bike was really easy to assemble czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Sepedae njenengan sae pak boozzz,,,🙏👍👍👍
Yes that the hard part of your very inpatient like me sometimes
Its probably because the paint under the top layer is uniformed particles
You have 2 skateboards?
Count them 2!
can we get some more bmx content👀
Yes, even though I lose 10 subscribers with every BMX upload hahah
I could not resist CLickiing
f that I would rather use different paint. Spray.bike is always a bit flat
*smashes the affiliate link 100 times*
hahah i think i only get the 5 cents once per person
You did a beautiful job my brother does sweating 🥵 it was created by your hands 🖐️ so be happy by your performance it's okay and it's all good I enjoy your one love and God bless amen freedom 💜🤟😁💿🎧📀😎✌️🙏😇🇺🇸💜
Burnside blues lol
I stopped watching some guy trying to detail his car with all this sanding. I said let me take a look at spindatt's new video. It's detailing a bike. At least the bike frame came out better then the car.
Why will it shock anyone, what you did is a typical step for a paint job?
Spray.bike paint is in NO way special ! ANY automotive 'rattle can' paint will give similar results ...... and be far cheaper!
2 coats of clear as an absolute minimum, and 2 weeks to fully harden - in a warm dry environment - prior to flatting and polishing.