Great video, but some warnings must be attached to using 2K spray coatings. They are extremely toxic, well amd above standard 1K spray products, even if overspray just grtston your skin. 2K finish coats are the worst but the primer and base coats are full of terrible dtuff too. You *must* wear a full body disposable painting suit, and either a half mask with safety glasses and face shield or full face respirator, as well as nitrile gloves (latex leaks chemicals through). And the spraying must be done in a area with proper ventilation, and ideally one covered with paint drop sheeting all the way around and some kind of exterior ventilation. Basically 2K products give the best final results...but the hassle to do it safely is not adequately shared when advice to use it is given. This stuff aint yer average rattle can of rustoleum. One exposure to 2K clear coat can cause permanent lung damage and tissue damage or even death(the deaths ive heard of were from full car autobody work). Read the SDS's for any spray products you use, and do not cut corners on PPE and area prep. Holding your breath is not sufficient to stop benzene exposures, and standing upwind is not sufficient to prevent skin exposure to over spray
How about the suspension and the front fork of the bike? Do I scrub this also to paint? What about the small plastic parts of it ? Should I just use masking tape if I want to avoid Diassembling it?
I hav No experience of painting suspension forks my self, yet. But they are usually aluminum and should be treated like a frame. Preferably disassemble it, otherwise mask as much as possible. Ive see videos of both. The plastic parts? Like levers or what parts do you refer to? I would probably mask them and leave them the way they are. If you want them painted, try to remove them and paint them separately. Rugg them with a sandpaper and use a plastic adhesion promotor. 👍
Finding a fluorescent color (green/yellow!) that performs well. Maybe you'll offer us a video, showing your how-to. Honestly, every road bike ought have super bright colors! The "stealth dark" fad seemed the nuttiest :-)
@@antoniiocaluso1071 I have not given in for the fluorescent colors yet, but they do tempt. And when I go there, I promise a video. I totally agree, stealth black is so 2016. 😎👍
It depends on what method you use to remove the bulk of the paint. I you use a power tool, you will probably have a quite rough surface and need to go as low as 240 or 320. The reason you need to go step by step ist that a 600 grit will never get the scratches from a 240 grit away, you need to do 400 in between. I hope that will help you out.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT Polished, cleaned and sprayed 2K clear coat. I also had 1K primer, but it was not clear, so had to polish frame two times. I was professional metal polisher 20 years ago.
TO ORDER PAINT STENCILS FROM ME, VISIT: paintstencils.carrd.co/
This is a great breakdown of the prep work in painting a bike!
Thank you! 👌
Truly OUTSTANDING, in nearly every way!! Thanks!! Best on YT
Thanks! 👍
Great video, but some warnings must be attached to using 2K spray coatings. They are extremely toxic, well amd above standard 1K spray products, even if overspray just grtston your skin. 2K finish coats are the worst but the primer and base coats are full of terrible dtuff too. You *must* wear a full body disposable painting suit, and either a half mask with safety glasses and face shield or full face respirator, as well as nitrile gloves (latex leaks chemicals through). And the spraying must be done in a area with proper ventilation, and ideally one covered with paint drop sheeting all the way around and some kind of exterior ventilation.
Basically 2K products give the best final results...but the hassle to do it safely is not adequately shared when advice to use it is given. This stuff aint yer average rattle can of rustoleum. One exposure to 2K clear coat can cause permanent lung damage and tissue damage or even death(the deaths ive heard of were from full car autobody work). Read the SDS's for any spray products you use, and do not cut corners on PPE and area prep. Holding your breath is not sufficient to stop benzene exposures, and standing upwind is not sufficient to prevent skin exposure to over spray
Thanks. Yes, I try to highlight the safety in several of my videos and I have increased my own safety gear and booth. 👍
Very useful!
My pleasure! 😃
Great vid!
Thanks!
How about the suspension and the front fork of the bike? Do I scrub this also to paint? What about the small plastic parts of it ? Should I just use masking tape if I want to avoid Diassembling it?
I hav No experience of painting suspension forks my self, yet. But they are usually aluminum and should be treated like a frame. Preferably disassemble it, otherwise mask as much as possible. Ive see videos of both. The plastic parts? Like levers or what parts do you refer to? I would probably mask them and leave them the way they are. If you want them painted, try to remove them and paint them separately. Rugg them with a sandpaper and use a plastic adhesion promotor. 👍
What’s your biggest challenge when painting bikes?
Finding a fluorescent color (green/yellow!) that performs well. Maybe you'll offer us a video, showing your how-to. Honestly, every road bike ought have super bright colors! The "stealth dark" fad seemed the nuttiest :-)
I only do top-ups of chipped paint cleaning with some alkohol first. Is that the right way to go?
@@antoniiocaluso1071 I have not given in for the fluorescent colors yet, but they do tempt. And when I go there, I promise a video. I totally agree, stealth black is so 2016. 😎👍
@@MTBs I’d love to see the results. ❤️👍
Timme
Is there an alternative to the special ammonia product for an aluminum frame? Something available in a store perhaps?
I think ammonia is available in most paint stores. Might be different in different countries. I got my at the hardware store.
@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT thank you! I'm in the USA and I'm having trouble with it
@@MesserMeister ok, can’t help you with that. But I don’t know of any alternatives.
what kind of grit do you think i would need to start with an aluminum frame?
It depends on what method you use to remove the bulk of the paint. I you use a power tool, you will probably have a quite rough surface and need to go as low as 240 or 320. The reason you need to go step by step ist that a 600 grit will never get the scratches from a 240 grit away, you need to do 400 in between. I hope that will help you out.
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT I just polished aluminium frame and went down to 800 before polishing.
@@mikakorhonen5715 you have a lifetime of polishing ahead of you. 👌😅
@@MYnextDIYbikePROJECT Polished, cleaned and sprayed 2K clear coat. I also had 1K primer, but it was not clear, so had to polish frame two times.
I was professional metal polisher 20 years ago.
@@mikakorhonen5715 ok, thats better. 👌😅
Snyggt
😎👍
What about alloy?
What kind of alloy? Usually its a steel or aluminum based alloy.