Mercedes W163 '98 - '05 ML350, ML500 DIY EGR Valve Cleaning, Testing (P0400, P2001 Codes)
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- This video is a step-by-step DIY for removal, cleaning, testing, and replacement of the EGR valve on the Mercedes W163, as well as other Mercedes M112 and M113 engines. This component can cause a Check Engine Light and a P0400 or P2001 code (as well as other codes).
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Timestamps and info:
00:11 Check Engine Light and Code P0400 (P2001)
00:50 Check your MAP sensor hose first
01:52 Explanation of EGR logic
02:29 Begin EGR removal
02:48 Remove air intake hose clamps
04:19 Remove left side breather hose
05:05 Part #'s for breather hose: Mercedes 1120180482, or Rein ABV0108
06:26 Important info regarding the air hose gasket
08:40 Part #'s for air hose gasket (two types)
09:04 Disconnect electrical for EGR valve solenoid
09:47 Disconnect EGR vacuum hose to intake
10:00 Remove right side breather hose
10:18 Disconnect electrical for fuel injector
10:54 Break free the two E14 bolts on the EGR valve
11:10 Wobble extension example
11:43 Loosen line nut on EGR tube
15:24 Disconnect vacuum hose junction above throttle body
16:24 Remove fasteners for EGR tube
16:55 Remove EGR tube
17:45 Cleaning the EGR tube
18:08 Start EGR Valve inspection and testing
18:20 Test EGR solenoid/transducer
19:03 Test EGR diaphragm
20:00 Part # for new EGR valve (Pierburg 722136500)
20:13 EGR valve pintle function
20:29 Remove transducer from EGR valve
20:54 Comparison of clean EGR valve and stuck-open EGR valve
24:04 Note on the EGR valve pipe fitting
24:18 Soaking a dirty EGR valve
24:55 Reinstall transducer to EGR valve
25:50 EGR Valve Gasket part #'s (Mercedes A112-142-0280 and Rein 703134200)
25:58 Note on EGR tube and fitting, and part #'s (26:23)
26:27 Reinstall EGR tube and gasket
27:00 Reinstall EGR valve and gasket
27:57 Reconnect EGR vacuum hose to intake
28:10 Reinstall fasteners for EGR tube (E10)
28:27 Reinstall EGR tube nut (24mm)
29:01 Torque down EGR bolts to head (E14's), torque is 177 inch-lbs
29:14 Torque down tube bolts to intake (E10's), torque is 80 inch-lbs
29:20 Torque down tube nut (24mm), torque is 30 ft-lbs
29:38 Reinstall vacuum junction to port on intake
30:43 Reconnect electrical for EGR solenoid
31:04 Reconnect electrical for fuel injector
31:18 Reconnect right side breather hose
31:25 Last check on fasteners before air intake hose installation
32:03 Reinstall air intake hose
32:59 Reinstall left side breather hose
33:51 Fastening air intake hose into place
35:28 Last check on fasteners and hose clamps
36:36 Document on P0400 Code
36:59 Clearing P0400 Code and test driving
37:41 Success, vehicle will pass Emissions Testing
Thanks for watching, and thank you for 300 subscribers!
I hope this was helpful for you.
Good luck with your repair!
I have a P400 code and intend to do an EGR valve and pipe cleaning. Your video (all of your videos!) are done so well, and they are so helpful to someone who is not a trained technician. I have said this before.....you have a gifted ability to communicate in a clear and concise manner. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you - I appreciate that! And thanks for watching! : )
Another excellent repair video. You won’t find a more thorough, detailed repair procedure. L35’s repair videos are the best available, don’t look elsewhere. Amazing support, thanks once again.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
You deserve an Oscar for the best tutorial and explanation of your videos,
Thank you so so so much,
Haha, oh gosh - thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Easily the best produced video on how to remedy Merc EGR valve faults. Great attention to detail and very well filmed. Thank you.
One of the most detailed videos I’ve seen on CZcams. I’ll be troubleshooting my P0400 this weekend. Thank you.
I'm so glad the video helps -- good luck this weekend!
As Always.... OUTSTANDING video..... without question the best on youtube. The "experts" could take a lesson from your technique. Your videos are perfectly filmed, including pitfalls and correct proceedure for the repair listed. You've more than earned my sub .... VERY well done!!!!
Agree with Mr. Suiter's comments. I'm nominating you for an Emmy.
I have not seen any of your other videos but I will be watching more! The documentation of the part numbers and even where to find the tools you are using is very thorough! The fact that you do your own camera work, narration and probably edit and produce your own videos is very impressive! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much for this video. I diagnosed my car for the check engine light and found the P0400 code. I followed through the process and had it solved. My issue was that i had the hose broken from the EGR sensor and also another hose pulled out from the intake manifold to the EGR valve. I had the sensor replaced and hose fitted back and Viola it was solved. Thank you for this amazing video.
Great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
Thanks a million for the video! It was one of the best I've seen. You helped me repair my daughter's 2004 ML500 this afternoon with the P0400 code. Hers turned out to be the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. The line was falling apart from age. I was prepared to remove and test everything but it looks like I got away with the easy fix! Thanks again!!!
Wow, that's great -- great catch and DIY! Thanks for watching : )
I watched 3 different EGR videos for this vehicle. Yours is by far the most well explained and best camera viewing angles. A lot of great tips. The other videos Are mechanic men so very nice job especially considering females are less likely to repair cars.
Thanks! I try to show the little details because those "little things" always seems to be the biggest surprises, haha. And true -- more ladies are working on cars these days, probably because of youtube, since youtube makes DIY work less intimidating. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with your repair!
L35 in Colorado NP. if you don’t mind let me ask your opinion. I did it today. everything went well up till what seems like the most easy part.. my tube was completely plugged with carbon. Cleaned & reinstalled. Everything fit back properly then while tightening the 2x large E12 Torx (under fuel rail) i somehow damaged the threads as they start and the bolts will only tighten in a crooked manner. In extreme disappointment I put the rest back together and left the 2x bolts threaded only a few turns. Obviously now it feels like I have 2 cylinders firing. Figuring my only option is to have a shop install NEW threads? I’m not going to risk installing myself never ever done it before and something tells me I will be scrapping this car if it goes wrong. Thanks again just want to hear your thoughts
@@user-nn5to3jx6d Ah man, I'm sorry to hear that! Just so we're on the same page, you're talking about the two bolts that thread into the intake, yes? (ie, the bolts seen at 28:17 ?)
If so, I've heard of this happening before on the MB intake manifolds (and also on the bolts to the head). You have a few options. The intake is aluminium, so it is much softer than the steel bolts, which is why sometimes those threads get stripped. To fix it, here is the plan I would take, in this order:
1.) I would try to clean up the threads, either with a tap or a thread chaser (thread chaser is easier). It is possible that just the top threads are damaged, and you might have good threads below them. A thread chaser is a hardened threaded rod (or tap or bolt) which "cleans up" the threads by cutting away any little bits which are out of place. This usually works pretty well on aluminum because aluminum is so soft.
If chasing didn't work, then I would consider one of the following remedies:
a.) Since the intake manifold is aluminum, I would drill out the old threads and re-tap the hole to the barely-next-size-up thread size (even if that's an SAE size). For this option, I would have to replace the original bolts with new bolts of that slightly-larger size, but I would make sure that the news bolts were the same length (not longer) and also had a nice flange like the factory bolts; OR
b.) If I determined that I needed to re-use the same fasteners (because I couldn't get proper similar fasteners of the next size up), then I would use a thread repair coil such as a Heli-coil, Time-sert, or EZ-Coil. Those are all thread repair coil brands; thread repair coils allow you to re-use the same fasteners, but you still have to drill out the old threads, tap, and then install the coils.
The first step for any of these is to to determine the size and pitch of the original bolts. To do this, you can swing by Lowes, Home Depot, or NAPA and thread them into the measurement boards -- this will show you the diameter and pitch (ie, M8 diameter, 1.0 pitch). You can then select your thread chaser, heli-coil, or tap, etc, using that information.
Off the top of my head, looking at the video, I would guess that those fasteners are M8x1.25 size, but you want to verify for certain, and get the proper pitch for the thread chaser/tap/coil, etc.
The good thing is that since the intake is aluminum, its not too difficult to drill or re-tap. You can try it yourself, or your mechanic will certainly be familiar with any of these options (heli-coils, time-serts, and tapping).
These are all options that ideally you would try with the manifold in place (because removing the manifold is a bit of a pain). Any drilling (and there would be drilling if the thread chaser doesn't work!) would obviously require a right-angle drill attachment and a steady hand.
Alternatively, if you can't access the holes well enough with the manifold in place, then you have to remove the manifold, which means you'll add in the cost of the gaskets that you'll have to replace. At that point, then you might even consider just swapping out the manifold to a used (ie, junkyard) manifold that has good threads. This would make sense if it saved money over a mechanic's visit (a used manifold here in Colorado at yards like LKQ runs about $40) plus the price of chasers, taps, thread inserts, etc.
I'm sorry this happened to you. I wish you the best! My first path would be the thread chaser -- find a good one of that same size as the bolt, and give that a shot. You might get lucky! Check a few videos on tapping and thread chasing before you use it, because there is some technique to it (namely, you have to thread in a little, then back it out to remove the cut metal so the chaser/tap threads don't get clogged).
Good luck!
L35 in Colorado thank you for taking the time to explain & break down my options. Yes it sucks hard because I knew better then to let that happen!! Glad to hear its not as helpless as I initially felt ha. Sorry I realized the bolts all appear under the rail. At 10:55 these are the 2x threads I damaged. I believe this is the head? I may try to clean the top of threads as you mentioned just worried about the sensitivity of these connections obviously everything needs to be vacuum tight. Thanks again I appreciate your time :)
@@user-nn5to3jx6d Cool -- well, those bolt holes are much easier to reach than the holes for the other end of the pipe, so you'd be able to heli-coil/EZ-coil those holes if the thread chaser doesn't work. But you might get lucky with the thread chaser. And yes, that is the head which those bolts thread into, which is also aluminum.
If the thread chaser doesn't work (hopefully it will!), then I would use a heli-coil or EZ coil for that location, instead of drilling/tapping up to the next size. The reason is two-fold: 1.) so that you can re-use those same fasteners, and 2.) because because those are fairly big fasteners in the first place.
Lastly -- yes, it does need to be a tight connection because otherwise you'll have a big vacuum leak (which is what you're experiencing now). Give the thread chaser a shot: it should only be about $8 -$12. Good luck!
I was ready to replace my EGR but thanks to your video I checked MAP sensor hose and yes little tube was broken. I cut it and tried to put back but it was turning into a dust. My W163 is 22 years old and that hose is “caput”. I replaced it with some different hose that I found at home. No more check engine. Thanks for great lesson. I would never looked at that sensor and hose it not your video.
That's so cool - that's why I put that hose info upfront on the video, because it happens more often than we might think : ) Thanks for watching!
I did the same replacement as you. I broke the same hose and my Air Intake hose was leaking and broke at the same place. I had to remove the radiator fluid tank to get the new air intake installed. Thanks for the video. You saved me money.
I watch CZcams ALLOT! Many times regarding auto repair. When I saw the amount of time for this video I was a little hesitant on watching, but after two minutes I was glad that I decided to watch. Very well made with plenty of detail covering the entire job. Thanks much!
Wow, thanks for you comment, and thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Extremely detailed video, and it is much appreciated. I will be doing my EGR valve tomorrow, fingers crossed I dont break anything :-) What I never noticed in any of the other videos, is the orientation of the metal gasket on the EGR pipe going into the intake manifold. Thanx for sharing that one. And again, a brilliant video.
Thanks you, I'm glad the video helped! As far as breaking things....just be very easy on your breather hoses if they are old and brittle (like the ones in the video), because those hoses just fall apart when they get old. That, and just be careful & patient when removing and replacing the big air intake hose, especially if you have a V8, because there just isn't a lot of room between the head and the firewall. Good luck, and please post back with any tips you learn!
I usually skip to the important parts on other videos, but this is just too special to do that, I’m in love with all the details 🥰 thank you for all that detailed information.
Thanks for watching! : )
This was without doubt the best video i've seen on the egr problems with Mercedes,the way you explain and show step by step was perfect,i'll tell you iam a ASE master tech with over 30 years in the business and very seldom have i ever seen a video on youtube as good as this one,Thank You
Wow, thank you so much! I'm just trying to learn and teach others so we can all perhaps work together and get our cars running well. Thank you for your 30 years of helping other people with their cars, and no doubt teaching lots of other techs from your knowledge and experience! Please leave any tips and tricks that you think would help others, and thanks again for your comment! :)
I have a 2002 CL500, you have given me a couple things to check out in the morning, thanks for the video. you did a great job filming and explaining.
Thank you you are so awesome ma you're the only one that showed how to get that pipe out. They usually take the pipe out off camera and then say it was hard I appreciate you so much I've been trying to take this pipe out forever.
Yes, that pipe is tricky! I'm glad the video helped -- thanks for watching, and good luck!
Omg! Excellent video! I am very impressed! Very through, step by step instructions! Very knowledgeable. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Love the detailed analysis and clearly defined steps and diagnostics in your video. I have a 2000 E320 and am concerned about my car being a different model than yours, but it's still extremely similar under the hood, moreso than the newer e320's I see on CZcams and I can't find any major differences so I am hoping I can use the same steps when removing and installing a new valve. There are no comprehensive videos out there for replacing EGR valves for the 2000 e320 w210's and yours is about the closest I can find. Thank you for the valuable and thoughtful information I'm your video. Many others rush through their videos and include many Uhh's and Um's and seem to breeze through many of the steps leaving me with a lot of questions, whereas you provide very detailed and digestible info.
Yes, the E320 will be very similar -- it is the 3.2L version of the M112 engine. You'll have a little more than you see on the V8 in the video, too, so some of the fasteners will be easier to reach. The air hose might be a little different. Thanks for watching, and good luck!
I want to thank these lady I have learned a lot with her keep it up lady
You're welcome, and thank you for watching! : )
Thank you for such a detailed and organized video. Just like a surgeon :) Pleased to announce the fix was successful! Thanks
Great! Congrats on your successful DIY -- thanks for watching! : )
This is best video I have ever seen.. wish they were all this detailed.. thank you
Wow, thanks very kind - thanks, and thanks for watching : ) Good luck!
I'll check this valve tomorrow , because my car won't start and stay it stops, I cleaned the manifold and the metallic line but not this valve, this is the BEST VIDEO, very detailed. Thank you very much. Definitely Subscribed!!
Thank you -- Just FYI, if your symptoms are coming on rather suddenly and you have a shudder then shut off, it might be the crankshaft position sensor. That happened to me before: a clue is that the tachometer needle doesn't move when you're trying to start. Sometimes you'll get a code, but if it is an intermittent failure, sometimes you don't. I'm not say that that is your situation, but I'm just mentioning it for consideration:
www.benzworld.org/threads/ml-320-1998-w163-p0700-p0720-cps-crank-position-sensor.2417513/
Good luck!
On my way to the junk yard now. Great video. Very detailed.
Nice - good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
Subscribed!
I love the sound of your voice and your video is detailed and well edited. Mahalo from Kauai.
Wow, thanks for subscribing -- mahalo from Colorado : ) Good luck!
Detailed, calm instruction,
Thankyou for taking the time to make this EGR repair enjoyable. 😎
Thanks for watching! : )
Excellent write-up on the video. Thank you. Do more videos please. It helps a lot!
Thanks, I'm glad the video helps! Stayed tuned, I should have a valve cover and breather covers video up within the next week or two for this same ML, the water pump and oil cooler seals videos. Thanks for watching!
You are genius.
The best video ever.
Thanks.
It always feels really thorough and accurate. I appreciate the work. Great work video. You're the real professional mechanic
Thank you
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : ) I hope to have some more W163 videos up soon, including water pump, oil cooler seals, oil filter housing seals, and fan clutch replacement. Stay tuned : )
Thank you! I have a W211, so the intake hose arrangement is a little different, but the EGR and hoses are identical, so it was a great reference. You were able to video some things behind the engine that I could not see.
Wow, that's great -- thanks for sharing your tips for the W211! I'm so glad the video helped : )
Wow, your computer & Video editing skills are equal to your MB mechanical ability, impressive !
Subbed, of course.
We have both m112 in e320 wagon & m113 in ML500.
The wagon has check engine light on & P0400.
I'll get my tools out now !
Awesome video, well explained, plus a sweet voice...love it. Keep up the good job. From Lancaster, PA greetings.
Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado keep posting more videos. You're good at what you do... 👏
I love how descriptive you are,I am learning a lot
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you very very much for the great detail and very thorough step by step of every single turn of the wrench. I have been using CZcams for years and this video takes the cake.
Wow, thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I want to say thanks again, thank you!! the hose from the egr to the front of the car into that solenoid was falling apart.
Great job -- nice catch! Yes, those little hoses just kinda dry up and fall apart. Thanks for sharing your experience so that others can learn, too!
Great video , thank you for being thorough with your breakdown, and repair.
Awesome 😸. I hope to see more from you. Good teacher.
This was just what I was looking for. Very helpful video! Thanks allot and keep it up! Regards from the Netherlands!
I like the way you can problem solve , it's very helpful thank you .
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I want to never known that existed if it wasn't for you thanks!
Thanks for watching! : )
Your video is SO detailed and clear, you must be a video teaching genius. Every step is clearly announced, all involved parts are highlighted and necessarily paused for viewer to recognize and learn. Really appreciate your effort of putting up your experience and expertise online! (Respectfully subscribed)
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing! : )
The wobble socket extensions saved my life! Thank you again for posting detailed info (part # etc), I made my shortest trip to Harbor Freight, literarily in and out! I watched 10 times more in trouble shooting my E320 P0400 problem. It turned out the cause is a deteriorated vacuum hose connecting EGR valve to intake manifold. As I told my wife: "Figuring out the problem: 2 days; fixing the problem: 2 dollars." Thank you again!
@@HongboZhao Wow, congrats on your DIY, and thanks for sharing your tips! Yes, I agree -- the wobbles are great, and they can save the day! Thanks for watching : )
As Always, best of the best explanation videos and all details we need, WELL DONE you make happy people to save big bocks
Gonna make this simple. Excellent video. Very nicely done.
I really like your videos because she really explains things well slowly and does things right I give her a lot of things I just got an ML 320 Mercedes and hopefully her videos will help me get through this battle I'm doing now which it starts 45 seconds and shuts off I just got it so I really don't know what's going on but I really dig her videos and whoever you are send me an email I like to correspond with you thank
I'm sorry I missed your comment - do you have any codes?
Very thorough and detailed...good job.. would like to see more on ML
Just used this on my '05 E500. Perfect video! The updated M113 (in newer cars past maybe '02) is actually much easier to do this job on.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - thanks for adding your experience with the '05 E500, and thanks for watching! : )
Hello from Germany 🙌😁. The best video I've seen so far 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💪. The image sharpness is absolutely brilliant. The exact angles of the camera and the precise explanation about it. With a pleasant voice 😁👍. This video took a lot of preparation and thought. Chapeau 👍 😁. Best regards from Michael 🙌
Wow, from Germany?? Thanks! That's so cool -- I'm so glad that you liked the video! Good luck! : )
YOU rock CHICK! Saved a ton of money DIY! Thank you!
I love your channel. Aloha from Kauai
Aloha, thank you! And Merry Christmas : )
Hello! I really like your videos. Especially how you solve things when you run into issues on the way. I own a 2004 CLK320, with 112k miles, and I've been struggling a bit with a P0400 error code. I exchanged all the hoses, since some where in a pretty sad state. Cleaned out the EGR valve, and pipe. Put new gaskets on. Now my OBD reader first gives me the P0400 as pending, and after a bit of driving, especially noticed if I accelerate uphill, the code goes to confirmed, and the check engine light turns on. I tested the solenoid and it clicks when I put a current through it. I hooked up a vacuum pump to test of the EGR can hold the pressure, which it can. Today, I tested the voltage on the connector, and weren't getting much until I started the car. Then it would jump up to 10.8V, but is that enough? If not, what can I do next? I have already replaced the alternator/voltage regulator, and tested the battery, which was good. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - when you had the EGR valve out, did you happen to verify that the pintle is fully seats? As shown in this video, the old EGR valve passed all tests except for the carb cleaner leak test shown at 22:20. Did you happen to check that when you had the EGR valve removed?
@@L35inColorado Thank you for taking the time and answering my question. I can't say for sure that I did. I filled it up with carb cleaner, and remember holding it up, but can't say for sure it wasn't leaking from underneath, as in your video. I wish I had viewed your video before since it does show much more ways to test it, than the "CLK EGR valve cleaning/removal" videos. If I remove it again, and test it, do I need to get new gaskets? I just had them all replaced, two on the tube/line, and one for the EGR valve.
@@PeterWard0 I always replace the gaskets, but I have heard of them being reused. I do think it's better to replace them because then it eliminates another possibility.
Absolutely amazing video. Extremely detailed. I appreciate you.
Thanks for watching! : )
Well done. very impressive. the best I've seen so far. thank you.
Thanks for watching! : )
Thanks .such a wonderful explanation
You are awesome. Best video !!!
I'm glad it helped -- good luck with your repair!
Just did mine yesterday. The problem was the upper clogged pipe. I also changed the EGR.
Good tip about checking the map sensor first. My mechanic saw there was a cracked hose there and then the p0400 code went away. Onto the next code for p0105...
Yes, that's the place to check first, for sure. For the P0105 -- that one can be hard to tract down, because its usually a cracked/leaky vacuum hose, and there are several vacuum hoses on the ML (including some very little ones); Mercedes doesn't seem to use the more durable hose material, because these W163's seem to get vacuum leaks more often than they should. Your mechanic can likely find it with a smoke test. Good luck, and thanks for your comment!
Very very well done! Complete,to the point.
Thank you -- good luck with your repair! : )
This is just fantastic; you must have spent lots of time preparing the detailed work and explanation. Great job.
Would it be the same procedure for 2006 ML500? Thanks
PS - That bracelet can be dangerous. I take my ring off when I'm working on the car. My wife doesn't like that!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video! Yes, this will also work for a 2006 ML500, but only if it has the same engine shown, which is the M113 (V8). Mercedes put the M113 engine (the V8 engine seen in the video) in some '06 and '07 ML500's (but they didn't put the V6 version, the M112, in the '06+ ML350's). Later, in I think 2008, MB switched the ML500 engine over to a newer engine, the M273, and re-branded as ML550, and that engine is quite different than the engine seen here.
So, yes -- if your engine looks just like the one in the video, and you can find everything just as seen in the video, then you have an '06 with the M113 engine instead of the M273 engine. If you google "Mercedes M273 engine" you can also see that the M273 engine looks quite different than the M113 seen here.
About the bracelet -- its a medical bracelet. Thanks for the tip; I am aware of the dangers of it catching, but its a measured risk I only take because something bad happens and I'm unconscious, I need the medics to see what's on the bracelet (so I just wear it all the time and try to keep it in mind). But yes, I take remove my rings!
Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your repair!
@@L35inColorado Thank you again
Awesome video! Very well put together. You take the fear out of DIY. Does this same procedure apply to the ML430 V8 as well?
Niceee!!! Michael Jackson voice!!! Thank you bro!!!
I wish I could dance like Michael Jackson! : ) Good luck!
Hi Colorada, you have such patience explaining everything… always keeping us informed step by step, thank you for doing that.
I recently got a P0442. Could that be related to the EGR valves? My 2000 ML55 currently has 168000 miles. I never changed the hoses nor the valves. Also my MAP sensor is leaking a dark substance from behind ? And the water pump was recently changed. My thoughts on all of this happening is that my emissions system is falling apart. I run the OBD2 and the only code that comes up is P0442. What do you think would be the best way to begin this evolution ?
I'm sorry you're having that problem! P0442 is an EVAP system code: EVAP is the system that controls gasoline vapors (it's an emissions thing). P0442 codes for a "small evap leak", and those small leaks can be tough to find - usually much tough to find than a big, obvious leak like a missing gas cap. The P0442 is not likely to be caused by your EGR valve, as the EGR system is exhaust gas recirculation, while EVAP is gasoline vapor control/flow.
Typically with EVAP leaks, you use a smoke machine to find where the leak is, then fix the leak. Sometimes the fix is as easy as replacing a cracked hose; other times it is a component (like a charcoal canister or gas cap).
A few common leaks on the W163 are the gas cap, a seal on the top of the gas tank, and the hoses near the charcoal canister. Here's a thread to start your research: there are lots of other threads on the benzworld.org forum, too - just use the search box on the forum. There are some excellent techs on the benzworld forum, too, who are very helpful:
www.benzworld.org/threads/p0442-evap-leak-small-leak.3006265/
I hope that helps - good luck!
You are awesome! Thank you for the help, absolutely well done.
Thanks for you comment -- I'm so glad the video helped! Good luck!
THE best video I've seen yet on CZcams. That being said PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE come over and fix my 4700 pound metal pile of mercedes-benz crap. MERCEDES-BENZ are THE WORST CARS EVER.
Haha -- the W163 isn't so bad (there's quite of few still running with 300K+ miles!), but all Mercedes do need a fair amount of maintenance, which isn't cheap. Good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado currently dealing with the nightmare on 4 wheels now. I tell people "whatever you paid for the car is what it will cost you to maintain that car to about 200k miles after that it's like dumping money into a black hole". 😆😆 take care and keep up the great work
You make so good DIY videos!!!
I regret not having done this work when changing the cylinder head cover gaskets .......
everything was accessible and dismantled. But the disassembly will be easier the pipes are new =)
Very well done! Thank you.
Thanks for watching! : )
Высший пилотаж ! Суппер видео !!! Огромное спасибо, языковой барьер, но я всё понял !!!!
Спасибо, и спасибо за просмотр моего видео!
Excellent instruction! Thanks.
Thank you for your comment -- good luck!
Thanks again for such great video instructions. My 2000 ML 320 throwing a P0300 code, I am ready to take on this challenge. What should be my starting point? Best regards
Amazing!
Your video is awesome, I need to see more.
Thanks for making the video It Worked for Me :)
Wow, that's great -- excellent job on your DIY!
Good video
Thanks for watching!
Well done video. I like that you take the time to fix the part rather than replace it. I have a 2002 W210 e320. Basically the same vehicle as your video. I believe I have a problem with the egr valve....When the engine is cold and in Drive it is pretty rough, but as the engine temperature increases it gets smoother. Does this point to an issue with the egr system? I'm not getting any codes, but I would like to fix this problem (ideally without having to spend $200 on a new valve). Thanks for your help!
I'm sorry for the delay -- I missed your comment. Yes, what you are describing could be the EGR valve, but it also might be a few other things. Here's a list and discussion that might help you troubleshoot:
mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/643269-things-check-when-have-rough-idle-start-up-cold.html
Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thanks for your reply...In the interim I did take a look at the EGR valve. I didn't remove it, but one of the rubber lines that run to it wasn't fully seated. Unfortunately that didn't make a big difference. Now that the weather has warmed up the rough idle when cold isn't as noticeable though. I think I'm just gonna live with it for now...Sounds like it could be a number of things unfortunately.
@@brown911 If you can, have the computer read for pending codes. Autozone/O'Reilly's/Carquest will usually do this for free with the regular code scanner (most code scanners have the ability to check pending codes). Pending codes won't throw a check engine light, but they will show up on a scan. They pop up when there is an intermittent condition. If you can get a code, sometimes that helps narrow things down.
Thank you
Thanks for watching! : )
Your video and DIY are always so detailed and well filmed. But for this one I think you have an error for the torque values. You write:
29:01 Torque down EGR bolts to head (E14's), torque is 177 inch-lbs
29:14 Torque down tube bolts to intake (E10's), torque is 80 inch-lbs
I think it's 17.7 inch-lbs and 8 inch-lbs. Isn't it ?
otherwise your job for the DIY are the best, that i can found on the web. It very helpful for my w163 ml500 when I work on it.
I'm sorry for the delay in responding: the torque values are sourced from the Mercedes WIS repair manual, which lists the values in metric (ie, Nm or Newton-meters for torque). I convert those metric values to ft-lbs or inch-lbs since those are more common expressions of torque in the USA.
Here's a version of the Mercedes WIS document for the M112 and M113 engines (as used in the W163 and several other MB's):
www.benzworld.org/attachments/egr-valve-pdf.413067/
The last page (p 10) of that document shows the torque values for this job in metric. The metric torque value for the bolts shown at 29:01 is 20 Nm. This metric torque value converts to 177 inch-lbs, as seen here (about 8.8 inch-lbs per Nm):
www.unitconverters.net/energy/newton-meter-to-inch-pound.htm
Likewise, the metric value at 29:14 is 9 Nm, which converts to 80 inch-lbs.
I hope that helps! I think you're just off a decimal point on the conversion. Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado thank you and you are right. Its because I use the metric system (I'm french) and I made a confusion betwen inch-lbs and feet-lbs. If you are in inch-lbs your value are correct. Sorry for the confusion. It's because in metric system we only have one unit for torque force it's the Newton per meter and we use rarely a subdivision.
WD40 works great on carbon build up.
That's good to know -- thanks for sharing your tip!
This was great. Cleaned EGR & pipe. Still had 0400. Got new valve and noticed the new hoes were in very tight. Saw the mfg diameter 3.5. Had windshield fluid line in there. Couldn't find 3.5 outside the dealer. Smaller diameter creates vacuum faster. Does it really matter?
No,I wouldn't worry about the inside diameter of the replacement hose, as long as you have a good fit that doesn't leak. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
Question for you or others:
Did this R&R tks to your excellent video.
Re-used old EGR & wasnt able to get it to 'seal perfectly' ie some fluid drip still occurred.
So I knew not 100%.
Today even though it burns no oil I get a significant puff of smoke upon rev up / take off, but ONLY after engine fully warmed & idling for several minutes.
Never happens under any other conditions.
Does this suggest the old not sealing fully EGR is at fault & brand new EGR would resolve it ?
Thanks a TON for any input.
What color is the puff of smoke?
@@L35inColorado
Blue-ish.
Does that help ?
Could have clogged injectors ?
It runs smooth / no misses.
I did read about an issue with partially clogged drainback galley on one cylinder bank leading to oil pooling above valve stem height under some conditions.
Said to cause oil to get sucked into cylinders & give smoke out tailpipe.
Heard of that ?
Btw, great vid & thx for your feedback !
I wish you were in northern Arizona, my 2005 ml350 just threw engine lights, bas light Ems and some others on my way back from phoenix for cancer check ups, it would not go faster than 20 mphs an hour and it had to be down shifted in 2 to do so and climbing the mountains was Arguuous to say the least barely getting up to the top that 5 miles an hour, and the whole vehicle just shook the whole time and sound like an old jalopi, I only vehicle and I cannot get back down to the valley for any more cancer check ups and there’s no mechanics in my area unfortunately I live in the Alpine region of Arizona lol
That was very helpful, thanks
You're welcome, and thanks for your comment -- good luck!
Best video by far. Can you help me find the part number or equivalent bolt for the air intake? (Single bolt next/near the transmission dip stick)
Do you have video on the replacement upstream fuels sensor for 2008 Mercedes Benz clk350? Thank you.
Hi again,
Your such a great instructor. Question: at 25:24 you touch a piece. What’s the name of that piece? What does it connect to? What does it do? Thanks!!
If you mean that little "hose to nowhere" with the black thing on the end, I believe that the black cylindrical device at the end is a small filter housing, like what you'd find in a stand-alone VSV/vacuum switching valve - though I have never opened one up on these particular EGR valves.
I have opened up such tiny filter housings on older Toyotas: Toyota used to place the VSV separate from the EGR valve, and that same part (the short "hose to nowhere") always contained a small, simple filter at the end.
Since the Mercedes design here combines the EGR valve with the switching solenoid/VSV (that is, the yellow electrical component), that short hose that seems to go nowhere is simply open to atmosphere on the far end to allow the vacuum switching to occur: when the solenoid opens and vacuum ceases, it is because the valve allows air into the system through that hose. And since that hose is open to atmosphere, there is typically a small filter at the open end to prevent dust from entering the manifold when the EGR solenoid allows air in to cease vacuum. I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much! I would've never guessed it was some sort of filter. Appreciate you clearing that up. Take care!
Great Video as always. Is the p0446 code related to the same steps? I finished cleaning the drain hoses and wiper nozzles Thanks to your other video. You Rule
Thanks for watching! To answer your question: No, the P0446 code is for a different system than the EGR system shown in this video. The P0446 code is for the EVAP system.
The EVAP system controls gasoline vapor from the gas tank, and consists of a few components (ie, the charcoal canister, shut off valve, gas cap, gas filler neck, etc) and several hoses. The code P0446 is for the shut off valve, but there are other possible causes to check before replacing the shut off valve.
The easiest/first EVAP check is this: Check your gas cap to see if that fixes your problem. Have a look at the gasket on the inside of the gas cap, and make sure the cap is "clicking" when you tighten it. If you forget to tighten the gas cap, that alone can sometimes trip an EVAP code. Likewise, a bad/old gas cap can trip an EVAP code because it will cause a vapor leak.
If the gas cap is okay, then check any obvious hoses that you can easily see under the hood and leading from the gas tank to the engine. If the obvious hoses are okay, then move to a more detailed check of the charcoal canister shut off valve, as described in these posts (look for the responses by 43spd; he links a pdf with testing instructions):
www.benzworld.org/threads/p0446-code.1374385/
I've also read of a case where the P0446 was tripped in combination with another code (P0450), and in that case the cause was a vapor leak at the seal of the MAF housing/main air tube (the hard plastic air tube from the air cleaner box to the intake). So that's another place to check: make sure the air tube isn't cracked, and that the clamps are fastened, etc.
EVAP codes can be hard to track down because they can be caused by even a tiny air leak. For this reason, it's a good idea to vacuum test any hose you can, or do a smoke test to find any tiny leaks, if possible.
Here is another pdf for replacing the charcoal canister shut off valve, if you determine that to be your problem:
mbworld.org/forums/attachments/m-class-w163/418218d1539856330-charcoal-canister-shutoff-valve-my-05-ml350-mercedes-r-i-charcoal-cannister-shut-off-valve.pdf
I hope that helps! : )
Long over due Thank for your knowledge and support. My canister was missing had to get one at the junkyard. Thank you for sharing
My ML500 got P0410 code, got fix with changed the broken 40 Amp fuse.
Thanks for sharing this tip!
Will replacing the EGR fix black smoke from sudden acceleration ?
Perfekt!
thankyou watched video and thankfully pipe was off in the front
I'm sorry I missed your comment - that's great! Yes, I put that note in the video about the little connection up front because it is always the first thing to check. Great job on your DIY : ) Thanks for watching!
Besttttt
Привет. Как промывают форсунки не снимая рампу?🌹
do you have a video replacing the hose going to the map sensor? mine is brittle and looks cracked. Any help would be great. Thanks a lot !!
Your comment inspired me to make this video - I hope it helps! Thanks for watching : )
czcams.com/video/383D-DkjEqs/video.html
@@L35inColorado really, cool I just checked it out. Great video!! I already had figured out how to fix the problem. Yes moved air-pump, and replaced the two vacuum hoses. One was broken at the pressure sensor. But figured I replace both of them. Only paid $6 for the hose, and solved the problem with the P0400 code. I didn't have to reset, because somehow the computer reset by itself. Thanks a lot and love your videos.
@@hubertl4352 Nice - great job on troubleshooting that P0400 code!
Hi again, I thoroughly cleaned and tested the EGR valve and solenoid on my 2006 ML500, replaced the MAP sensor; also replaced all the attached hoses to EGR and MAP, including the one to the valve cover. Thoroughly cleaned the metal tube from EGR to back of air intake. Cleared the PO400 code but the engine light still pops up after a few miles returning the same error code. Cleared the code a few times and the code still persists. So what else could be going on. Before replacing the EGR, which is quite a pain, what else can I do to make sure all other possibilities have been eliminated.
Thanks,
Check out this thread from benzworld: it is about a W210, but that is an M112/M113 engine too:
www.benzworld.org/threads/p0400-egr-code-not-urgent.2653562/
I would re-check the hoses and the seating of the hoses, to be sure that there's not a little leak. Also I'd check the little hose from the EGR valve to the manifold (27:57) to make sure it is fully seated. I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
I'm thinking of buying a 2003 w163 ml 270 cdi , or would i be better off ml 320 ( what are your thoughts ) i won't hold you to anything )
I don't know anything about the diesel, because they are so rare here in the USA! If they are as reliable as the gasoline M112/M113, then you can't go wrong! Perhaps check out the W163 forums at www.benzworld.org to see some input from people who own them! I hope that helps : )
Why does oil get into air intake. Where the gasket is
Is the air intake gasket all the same size for all models? I have a ml430
No, as mentioned in the video there are couple of versions - if you can't remove the air intake before you order the parts, then I'd buy both parts, since they are different sizes. Your ML430 is like the ML500 as far as the limited space to work, so I wouldn't blame you for not wanting to remove that air intake twice (once to get confirm the part before ordering, and once to do the job). I hope that helps - good luck! : )
Hi do you know a good w--site where I can get a blow up diagrams, I've got this breather hose on an M111. R170 behind the inlet manifold connects to the head and goes to the oil filter. It is split, but I need to know if that pipe is one of those that is fixed into the head or just held on with the clip? what the clips seems to go into the head not just clamping it, I can't buy the hose anymore not for sale anywhere I can see, I've been to lots of parts places and they can't get it or Mercedes say they can't get it. It means super gluing it or making a hose up! but I need to know how it's attached to the head need some blow up diagrams or a workshop manual thanks.
It's worth putting a little bit of silicon grease around the Olive going into the compression fit of the EGR valve assembly, and around the nut as well so it doesn't corrod later on.The Olive that's what they call it on vehicles, its the same as a plumbing fitting it is mated up and crashes to the form! the grease will help to mate it up better, and needs to be tight especially if you're reusing it on a different fitting it's got to form to the shape of the insert and pipe
I'm not sure which engine I've got in mine? I Got a Feeling they've put the two litre compressor should be the 2.3 liter but somebody has ground the engine number off that's what it looks like nothing showing up where it should be the back connected to the bell housing. Anyway I could try to fill the cylinder up with liquid you know what's the quantity would be for two liters of 1 cylinder? is that dividing by 4 from 2 liters I think that's correct don't times since I've done maths😏.I'm not sure of any other way of knowing what the capacity of the engine is?
That is just perfect. Thank you.
The EGR Tube is pretty expensive, and you say that fittings on it are one time use. But you don't mention whether they have be replaced or not. You just say if.... ? I've opened the whole thing now and want to put them together after cleaning. So what should I do, reuse or not reuse? Thanks
If you're talking about the nut and internal flare fitting on the EGR pipe -- you can reuse that and put it back together after cleaning, no need to replace anything.
What I meant at 25:58 is that the nut doesn't come off -- it is one-time installed fitting: I had wanted to replace just the nut and flare, so I bought just the nut and flare, but it's not just a simple swap out. The pipe seals just fine if you re-use the fitting. I should have been more specific in my description. If you need to buy a new pipe, then you'll need to buy the flare and nut because the new pipe doesn't include the flare and nut.
I put the pipe back on with the original nut and flare, as shown in the video, and have had no issues. Is that what you mean? I hope that clears it up : )
@@L35inColorado That's exactly what I asked for. Thank you so much. You are such a wonderful person, a rarity in this day and age.
@@AndyNav1 Great -- good luck with the rest of the repair, and I hope it solves your emission issues/code! : )
I'm not sure if my vacuum lines from the front side of the manifold are plugged correctly, I didn't took apsrt the hole thing, usually I take video/pictured before I do some new work in my car.
This might help:
nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/m/113964/07n/14/?chasis=16417563J
Hi having problems with my ml55
P0410 any thoughts? Cheers