Using Copper or Brass Leather Saddlers' Rivets
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- čas přidán 29. 03. 2019
- ► Buy my patterns and leather goods here: leodisleather.etsy.com
► For more information see: ianatkinson.net/leather/videos...
In this video we are taking a look at how to set traditional copper or brass saddlers' rivets. There is an overview of the tools used as well as examples of the different finishes which can be achieved.
One thing I did forget to mention was that the washers often have a smoother side and a side which is rougher or has a slight burr; be sure to place the best side facing upwards for the neatest finish.
There are some Amazon links below to some of the tools mentioned:
► Knipex 68-200 End Cutters
Amazon UK amzn.to/2CNzxQm
Amazon USA amzn.to/2UrCkZT
► 5Kg anvil
Amazon UK amzn.to/2JSx8Ko
Amazon USA amzn.to/2Ox5gtM
► Weaver Leather Heritage #12 Setter
Amazon USA amzn.to/2K1CPFE
► Weaver Leather #12 Copper Rivets
Amazon USA amzn.to/2HQkJod - Jak na to + styl
Hi everyone, here's a new video on setting brass or copper saddlers' rivets. I've recently managed to get much better results with these by getting some better tools (no I'm not just saying that!) so I wanted to share what I'd been up to. This is the first proper video of 2019, I have plenty planned so there should be more to come as long as I can manage to get them done. To all the subscribers thanks for sticking around, I know it's been a bit quiet on here 🙃
Ian Atkinson miss you buddy welcome back.....we look forward to seeing your work. Thanks
Very thorough and comprehensive tutorial. Well worth the time spent watching. I'll be watching your other videos too. Subscribed. Thank you Ian.
Excellent tips not found in other videos. FYI you were my first teacher when I started years ago and I have learned so much from you. Thanks
I use a steel washer with a slightly larger hole, to sit on top of the copper washer , to use as a spacer for cutting off the post.
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching them. I used to set a lot of copper rivets in hand sewn bull halters and the way we set them was aimed at max strength. We did not use the rivet sets as they were generally more trouble than they were worth and were too slow. We used a pair of end nippers to drive the washer down onto the leather. As we drove it down the post we gripped the post just enough to raise a burr on both sides and hammered directly onto one arm of the end nippers that would hold the washer in place at the depth needed. We would then drop a mud flap washer over the post and trim the post to length. They ended up slightly longer than yours and that was to give the strongest fixing possible. The sequence was a little different to yours from that point as we would give the cut end of the post a couple of hard hits to set up the post so that it was made wider than the hole in the washer, then we would use the round ball to peen over the edges of the rivet post to a rough domed shape. After that we used a priory rivet set punch that was like a big nail set with a nice smooth shallow dome in its face. We would use it in a circular fashion to smooth and refine the dome on the rivet. The final couple of hits straight down on the rivet set it to final depth. We aimed to set the washer to about half its thickness into the leather, any deeper and you risked cutting into the leather and weakening the fixing and the halter and any less it was not set tight enough to add to the total strength. Any that were set too deep and found by the foreman were cut out of the halter and you had to remake that part in your own time. On payday there would be a deduction from your wages($28/week) for the wasted leather, thread and copper rivets.
Wow such great info form your vast experience! Sincere thanks
Great video thank u! Quick tip for folks, the more polished your tool (hammer, or ball peen) the more polished the finish will look on your rivet. A mirror polished peen leaves shiny marks on the copper
This is very helpful. I have been making knives for over 40 years. On my channel I teach knife making as a CZcams Knife mentor... I will be doing a short video to link your channel and this video for my subscribers. Well done!! Thank you.
Great video! To avoid ridge cut rivet twice. Precut, turn cutter 90 degrees then cut all the way. You should get something like hipped roof.
Thanks for another great instructional video. Your calm and detailed way of demonstration and explaining things is great.
Welcome back, Ian. Another great video. I had wondered if you had a sense of humor left after all you have been through, but this video shows you do. Humor makes all the bad things a little less bad. Laugh a little more often in your videos. You, and your loyal viewers, will feel much better if you do.
the day I stop laughing I'll really be in trouble Bob!
Cheers Ian! Great stuff as always. Glad to see you posting again!
Great to see you back & thank you for the expert advice. I often have trouble with my nubby bits, but you have given me a solution to make them look neat & pert.
Ian, thank you so much for this. You just gave more helpful information about setting copper/brass rivets than any other video I've found on CZcams so far. Every other video basically goes like this, "It's easy! Just hit it, snip it, then hit it more!" Anyone working with these rivets knows that it's a learning curve. I'm totally going to try all your suggestions and I'm excited on what I'll learn. Thanks again. You're awesome. Keep being so.
thought I would only watch about five minutes of this video; I've always been terrified of copper rivets, and never thought I'd use them. But then I got fascinated by what you were demonstrating, the 27 minutes flew by, and now I really want to try my hand at copper riveting! I think that Weaver setter, combined with your demonstrated techniques, will do the trick. (The reason I've always been scared of copper rivets was that the staff at Tandy told me that even they had trouble setting them, using the Tandy setter!) Thanks for the great video!
Thank you Ian. I appreciate your videos so much. Always great and informative.
Thanks Ian- always good to hear from you on CZcams. Great review of setting options.
Cheers Ian, good info!
I've done a few with the base on the outside and finished it off with an easy rivet setting tool, domes the whole head nicely. I got the cheap set of 6 and chose the one that fits the rivet closest.
LOL You cracked me up laughing about rubbing the nub.
Regarding snipping the post at the same height every time, I'd respectfully suggest using a washer that has a bit larger internal diameter hole. That way it'll leave the exact same amount of post every time without ever wearing out. Fyi, washers come in different thicknesses so you can choose the best one for your taste and/or tool.
Hey Ian, I really enjoy your videos; I've learned a ton from you! I hope things are going well in your world. Thank you for all the quality content!
Excellent. Thank you for taking the time to put this video together.
Really glad you're back man
Hi Ian, your videos are always informative and inspirational. Thank you for posting again, as a newby leather crafter, I appreciate you ! My best, Gary
Thanks for another incredible video Ian, your videos have helped me immensely
Always so full of information. Good to have another video by you.
What a detailed explanation on rivet setting! Probably nothing left out.... Thank you very much!
Thank you Ian, this was really useful and I'm glad I chanced upon this as I'm starting on some riveting soon!
Thank you for the detailed explanation!
Thanks Ian! I feel like you’ve saved me a lot of pain learning some of these lessons the hard way. Great tutorial!
Wow, thanks for complete lessons on setting rivets. I was not happy with my first rivets and now I know why. Thanks again.
You are an awesome leather worker. I’ve learned so much from your teachings. Sincerely thank you for your help. Cheers Mate!
Thanks Ian, another great tutorial.
Cheers Ian love watching you're tutorials, 😄 even the bit about rubbing the nub! 😜.
Thank you so much for this video, Ian ... your information is most appreciated ...
I'll definitely apply some of your tips the next time I use copper rivets. Thanks for the video.
Very nice! You helped me to do this important job a bit neater!
Love your videos. So informative!!! Thank you.
Thanks for the tutorial Ian
Excellent explanation and tips. Thanks
I learned to rivet for aircraft upholstery and strapping. The procedure was to file flat the brass, beat it to mushroom with the flat of the hammer and then peen the edges out. It is not as fast as the doming tool, but it IS faster than hammering a dome from a doming tool. Thanks, as a lways for your videos, you are certainly high up on my list of favorites.
Very informative. Thank you for sharing 😉
Great tips Ian!
Very informative Ian thank you!
Thank you! Some great information!
Some random inch fraction ! Lol 😂 been watching your videos for a few years an as I was rewatching this one , OH YOU GOT ME ! Much love friend
Hi Ian, Once again thanks for an excellent video. I had been trying to do it using a ball peen hammer. Strong fastening but untidy. I will now buy one of these tools. Just a tip, my local saddler pointed out that some of my washers were upside down... One face has a nice chamfer which goes facing up... please keep the coming.
this is mentioned in the video description I just forgot to mention it in the video
Thanks for publishing this! Superb and easy to understand tutorial about using this kid of rivet... I do the odd piece for Re-enactment and this type of rivet is used exclusively for the goods I produce.. or thinner versions of them... One source I had for doing these recommended annealing the rivet before hand to make it slightly softer to work with, not sure if the manufacturers take this step in their production, but if not, then the rivets will have hardened slightly from their production processes, and if they do, then it's a case of better safe than sorry... :o) I do have to say that your videos and clear instructions are what got me started, even if with a different type of product (Belt Pouches and Knife sheaths) than the more modern ones you make, and they gave me the confidence to get started... thank you Ian! :o)
Thank you it found the video wonderful and very helpful
Hey Ian, awhile back during your sheath tutorial you mentioned counter-sinking rivets to avoid metal on metal contact, I've experimented a bit with the technique using a french skiver and dremel, but was curious if you could talk about how you go/would go about it
Great tutorial Thanks
very useful video, thanks.
Been watching your videos and decided to order up a England made scalpel. Been using an exacto blade (as we all normally do here in the USA) but wanted to see if there was any difference in the sharpness between both. After some testing I'll say that if you want a super sharp crafting knife the scalpel is sharper. And if you want the most cost effective replacement blade the scalpel is also the way to go. 100 blades cost me $12 usd. That's super cheap for a very sharp blade. If anyone is thinking about getting one make sure the handle is made in the USA or England. The Chinese made ones are hit and miss for the blade stays. Thanks you again for putting out the content. Cheers from California
I use Swann Morton handles and blades, made in Sheffield. There are links on the tool set page ianatkinson.net/leather/toolset.htm
All washers also have a "show" side and a side to go towards your work piece. The washers are punched out with a die and it leaves the edges on one side sharp and the show side just slightly rounded and smooth.
I've always found these annoying to get looking nice. Thanks for the tips!:)
Excellent!
Great video Ian! I even did as you suggested and rubbed my nub... nope, no sharp bits! 😉
Your funny!!
Your video has been so helpful, I’m looking to put copper rivets in my work shoes as I’m a bit electro-hypersensitive I think? I work in a radiology department in Manchester, all day I’m exposed to RF/EMF/ionising radiation and it’s making me buzz....I kid you not! I could spend £30 on a shoe grounding kit from the US which comes with only 2 rivets, one for each shoe. Or I can buy 10 copper rivets from eBay, a setting tool and a hole punch for about £17 and do 5 pairs of shoes!
You’ve given me confidence to put holes in my shoes....thank you sir. P.s loads of tips, I haven’t seen on other riveting CZcamsrs. Nat x
Or I could spend £80 on some naff looking shoes with the copper rivets already in situ. Err no.
Well that wasn’t the sort of thing I expected anyone would use the video for but if it works go for it! :)
How much longer than the thickness of material to do the rivets need to be? I have some leather for an axe sheath, three layers measures 10mm. I'd like to file the rivets to the same length so the heads are peened over the same on the back.
Have always used brass rivets. Looking at you work with copper, damn, it is soft. I need to move over to copper. I usually like the color of brass with the leather I work with, but you're getting cleaner results with the copper. I'm still using the tandy tool, and it sucks. I recommend some Tandy tools, like they are good enough, but the rivet setter sucks and is unusable for doming the rivets, I just do the "hand hammered" style as a result with a ball peen hammer.
Also, was using Harbor Freight (forget the UK equivalent, dirt cheap chinese tool shop) side clips on a 12 brass shaft, and I could not snip it. I closed my eyes and really bore down on it, and ping ping ping around my shop. I thought I clipped the tip off of the brass shaft, but nope, the chinesium side snips shattered sending bits of "steel" everywhere. Who knew brass was stronger than chinese steel? Live and learn.
Thanks for this vid, as always.
"safety squints" engaged!
Always keen to improve how you "rub the 'ol nub", eh mate? Fantazmic video. Totally going to start using copper/brass rivets now. I full agree with your thoughts about the typical double-cap quickie rivets -- I'm always wondering whether they mushroomed out properly inside. Life is always better when you can see the nub clearly and tell it's been given a right proper pounding. ;-)
What is the model number of your knipex cutters? Thank you
I use a washer, a little bigger than the one on the rivet to give the same height to cut the end off
That’s a good idea
Do you collect your 'cut offs' and recycle them? I have seen other videos where the person has a small jar for the cut off bits.
No, can’t think what use they would be and I don’t use many anyway
Loved your giggle/laugh at your finger feeling over the rivet. I'm a recent viewer of you youtube channel. Thanks for all the tips in this video. Keep Crafting!
Hi Ian, do you know of any company in the UK who stocks brass rivets and burrs? I have looked on my usual suppliers websites, but they only list copper, which I have.
Regards
Michael
No you might have to import them
@@Leodis.Leather Thanks Ian. I did have a trade account with Tandy in the UK but it does not seem to have transferred over, even though my last order was supplied from the States.
Glad to see you back missed your videos watching you got me started a couple years ago been going strong ever since
So you're saying, rub your nub a bit then give it a few whacks?
Thank you for the video. But the concave in the doming is even, rotating the tool does not change anything.
There are tools to dome the other side (head) of the rivet too.
yes you can get those, I don't have one and it's not something I do myself though
When he laughed at rub your finga ova it lmao
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Nice Job, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Have you thought of using a good quality micrometer to measure the thickness of the washer & it's diameter. You could then get a small piece of flat copper, brass or even steel, that is thickness of the washer and drill a hole the same diameter as the washer but add 1 mm to cover minor size variants. You will not 'flatten' the flat metal piece and if big enough, it will totally protect the leather around the rivet. 1mm accurate micrometers can be easily found cheaply on eBay to try out this idea and it should not be hard to find the sheet metal and then use 'tin snips' to cut it to size. The washer should be made of 'hardened' metal but you don't need the sheet metal to be specially treated to use for this.
No Tippy Tappying!!
Thanks Ian! It's hard to hear you sometimes.
The microphone was in a weird place for this video as the camera was off to the side so it didn’t record as well as usual
Be careful rubbing those nubs unless you are willing to finish what you've started. 😆
If you put the camera on the opposite side you are then you wouldn't keep getting in the way and too close to the camera.
there's no space on the other side for a tripod, my workshop is tiny so it's difficult to set the camera up anywhere other than on the bench. I usually have it overhead but that's no good for hammering things
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