14:10 He *finally* starts talking about Zip R sheathing. Everything before this is an update on the build. The title is borderline clickbait... Did you even say how thick the insulation is? That information needs to be front and center, maybe even in the description.
From an energy efficiency standpoint for a house of that caliber anything you can do to improve over code is a must. ZIP R around the occupied space (including garage demising wall) and the garage walls themselves could be uninsulated sheathing. However, if you have livable space above the garage I’d do the entire exterior. For me and my clients it’s worth it. It’s expected the house is above “spec grade”
We agree 100%, which is why this will be our standard for all of our spec homes moving forward. We've only seen one other home in this subdivision go up using the Zip-R sheathing or any sort of full thermal break.
Having the extra insulation in the garage will be worth it in the long run. When your building a house that will be around for decades, it is worth it. Looks like this is someplace that will get cold and the garage will be cold. The big difference is the summer time when the sun is beating on the side of the house. You don't want your garage to be a sauna. I live in an expensive house and the garage is way too hot in the late afternoon when the west sun is beating down.
We used a self closing swinging door for our pantry and are very happy with it. Standard and pocket doors are more cumbersome especially if you're carrying items and in a pantry you typically are. Imagine having to make a trip back to close either type after setting your items down almost every time. The hinge mechanism also has an auto-hold open if you fully open the door.
That's a great idea! I never thought of using a self closing door for a pantry. The auto-hold open is a great feature if you are bringing in several trips of groceries.
@@pinnaclebuilds1011 The hinge assembly is by Bommer (7800 series) here's a link to the product. czcams.com/video/uHFieU04Y2g/video.html My carpenter installed and I hadn't seen the internal workings until just now. It's fairly ingenious.
In Montana qe extreme weather. Sumner and winter. Zip system is a no go here. They use it but you should use 1/2 osb then cover it with 1/2 foam. That actually helps everywhere if you think about it. Use silicone sealing up the edges before sheathing it. Anything to seal that up is better.
Do you think the Zip R3 is worth it for a 2500 sq ft $400-500k build in Nebraska (the full range of temps and weather)? Walls may also have some closed-cell and insulation batts in them.
The Zip-R insulation and air barrier is expensive. The time and cost-saving advantage is the insulation and air barrier are applied on one step. I’m not a professional builder, but just wondering, did you compare the cost of the Zip-R to alternatives such as Rockwool Comfortboard 80? I really think adding exterior insulation is worth the investment.
You would have to figure it out for your application, every situation will be different. When I look at CI like Zip R, the break even for me is 15-20 years out. At the current trend of inflation and energy cost it is looking more like 15 years now. On paper I could save $600 and up to $800/year, but with inflation and fuel prices that is changing fast. I had run my numbers doubling inflation an fuel costs in 2016, and we have now hit those numbers a lot sooner than expected. I need to do windows, and siding will need to be painted or replaced in the next 5 years so do them both and add in CI.
Love the content! I’d like to see what you do with your basements as far as insulation i.e. exterior or interior insulation, foam board, spray foam ect. I often see this overlooked and poorly insulated in almost all zones. I like the benifits of the Halo insulation products in this area myself. Thanks!
Question: I understand it depends on a host of factors, but just ballpark, what is the cost of a poured concrete shell (not ICF) verses a high performance framed shell using 2x6s per linear foot of wall?
We are leaning towards trying CS Cavity Sliders on this project but trying to justify the cost. With the number of sliders in this house, it would be about $4,000 for just the slider mechanisms.
I have an old 1950’s ranch that has T&G for sheeting and 2x4 walls. This year I am going to be rehabbing the exterior of my house roofing trim siding and windows. I am wondering if it is worth it for me to use the r-3 sheathing for my house to just give a a tighter seal not so much added r to the walls. Any suggestions would be helpful thanks.
I wonder about this as well. I live is San Francisco, same 50’s ranch. Stucco is falling off the house considering new windows and zip r3 with hardier board and batten siding.
I'm planning to build a custom home in Maryland, climate zone 4. I'm planning to do continuous insulation and trying to decide between Zip R-6 vs regular OSB+1" polyiso as separate materials. Although the latter would probably be cheaper in material costs having to go around the house twice with the additional labor costs would likely make the total costs a wash. Was wondering what you thought? Thanks.
Do the framers not install more than one stud from the plate to the header above an opening if there is a loading bearing point from an LVL beam on the plate
we are going to choose ZipR3 combined with Anderson 100 windows. we had to preorder the windows before knowing for sure that we are going with the ZipR3. Will the windows be a weird fit due to the extra half inch insulation included in the ZipR3 sheathing?
@@bamc3835 It will depend if you ordered the windows with preinstalled jamb extensions. If not, you will be perfectly fine. If you have jamb extensions already installed, your finish carpenter should be able to work some magic for you! We also used the Zip R3 on this project.
I have a big concern at 3:52 where above the tall window you have a MASSIVE point load landing on just one 2x4 above the window lintel. The lintel may be sized correctly but that point load a massive beam above and the other interconnecting beam that is attached to it means you have heaps of loading. You should at least have a 4x4?
@@woasc0ut I'm still going to go back to the site this afternoon and double check to make sure that the added 2x6 was put above that window! Now you've got me questioning my memory, lol. We start drywall on this project in two weeks, so the cavity is still open.
@@woasc0ut Ok, I made a run out to the project this afternoon and am happy to report we have a quad support under that beam. I made sure to call it out on the episode that's going live tomorrow morning! Thank you for the attention to detail!!
I would happily pay the extra $10,000 for the Zip-R, but the reality is that most homes are spec houses and most home buyers are completely stupid when it comes to building a house. For that reason as well as the fact that home appraisals don’t accurately reflect real value in homes, I think building codes need to mandate more advances that will never become mainstream otherwise. The unfortunate truth is that good builders have to compete with cheap builders for the same customers so you have to be careful how much you give away on each job.
I didn’t realize most homes are spec homes. You’re talking about the US? If you invest in installing additional exterior insulation, can’t this upgrade be promoted as a means to justify a higher priced spec house? Perhaps the average consumer requires being informed by the realtor. I’d much rather buy a more efficient, quality built house, even if it is more expensive, rather than a cheaply built alternative. The better insulated home will save the owners money over the long term. I can’t believe the average consumer would not value this.
Home buyers aren't the experts, the builder is being paid to be the expert. It's the responsibility of builders to improve their industry, but the fact is they're more concerned about their profit margins than the quality of their product. Every home built these days should be implementing these basic features, but production builder and the codes they build to are mostly pathetic in the USA. Europe figured this out decades ago.
@@dlg5485 you make a good point european homes are built too much higher standards - but then again new construction homes in usa could easily be 150$ a sqft while in europe is pushing alot closer to 300$ a sqft!! i think as much as people want high quality construction and better insulation -- they prefer cheaper homes they can afford
@@zombiesoul-eater741 Again, that's because the industry in the USA is all about maximizing margins. A 20% cut just for the builder is absurd in my opinion. Some of that margin should go into building a better home. Also, It's up to the builder to educate the client on what their real options are and the associated costs. Some clients will gladly spend an extra 10% if they understand the profound difference it'll make in the finished product.
Thermal breaks are required by IRC and codes now. Usually min is R5 on the exterior, You could have gotten sheets of polyiso + zip for less than the ZIP R which is what I'm doing.
why polyiso vs rockwool? (in the same boat) and debating between ZipR, polyiso, rockwool, and honestly even LP's weatherlogic panels that seem to be the same as ZIP at a significantly lower cost. @steven7650@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy
@@genesky9325I ripped off the 200 y/o sheathing so my insulation is behind the wood. It means I don't have to worry about condensation ever hitting the wood. With insulation over the wood you have to maintain the correct ratio or you could cause condensation on the wood or in the wall. Also rockwoll is vapor open so it can go outside. polyiso can't go over the wood in climate zones 3a+ it must be able to dry to the outside.
Does the Zip-R have a radiant barrier, the old stuff in 2014 said it did, but I can't find any info that it is included on the latest Zip-R sheathing? I see 1" radiant stuff at Home Depot for under $10 a sheet(not sure type of foam). I was going to use open cell foam in the rafter space here in zone 3, but I think I will use Zip Roof with 1" radiant foam between the rafter and Zip and then put Rockwool in rafter space. That should give an airtight roof with a conditioned attic and radiant barrier under roof foam with over 1" plus air space between rockwool R-24 and radiant foam. Does anyone think the foam should be glued to the bottom of the Zip panels on 24" rafter spacing?.
I think it is just a glue strip/stain of some sort that just looks like some kind of seam but is actually running across the field of the 4x8 piece. I thought the same as you. But I have since used ZipR on a home and it also had strips/stain lines running across the foam side that looked just like that in the video.
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, this house will go to market just over $1m. I think we're going to use the Zip R9 or R12 in a project we have coming up next year.
lol, tell us your profit margin and then I'll tell you if it was worth it or not. Something tells me you have enough gravy to spar the extra 10Gs. I know from the builders of custom homes in the Chicagoland area that the actual construction materials of the house is not the biggest cost, the lot, and labor are. In fact, I had a builder try and bribe my x wife by offer to build a custom home at cost if we bought the lot and he said the materials were 75,000$. My x wife worked for the community development with the inspectors.
This is a spec home, so we don't have a set margin as it will fluctuate with what the market brings for the home. We were targeting 18%, but it won't be that high. You had a custom builder offer to build you a home for a total of $75,000 in materials? That seem beyond unreasonably low. We have ~$115,000 in lumber alone in this project, $38,000 in windows, $60,000 in cabinets, $30,000 in countertops, $15,000 in exterior doors, and that's just the rough strokes of the big ticket items. We haven't selected flooring yet, but materials alone will most likely be in the $30k range.
No, I don't think that Zip-R is worth it. If you watch the videos from "Spray Jones" on CZcams, you will see that thermal bridging is less of an issue when you use 2x6 suds. You could have framed the outside walls using 2x6's at 24" o.c.( using Closed cell foam) yet have the same energy cost as using Zip-R. Zip is way over-priced mainly because of the patent that Huber has on it. Once the patent runs out, that will open it to more competitors .
14:10 He *finally* starts talking about Zip R sheathing. Everything before this is an update on the build. The title is borderline clickbait... Did you even say how thick the insulation is? That information needs to be front and center, maybe even in the description.
Thank you!
ZipR-3.6 panels. He mentioned it in another video.
From an energy efficiency standpoint for a house of that caliber anything you can do to improve over code is a must. ZIP R around the occupied space (including garage demising wall) and the garage walls themselves could be uninsulated sheathing. However, if you have livable space above the garage I’d do the entire exterior. For me and my clients it’s worth it. It’s expected the house is above “spec grade”
We agree 100%, which is why this will be our standard for all of our spec homes moving forward. We've only seen one other home in this subdivision go up using the Zip-R sheathing or any sort of full thermal break.
Having the extra insulation in the garage will be worth it in the long run. When your building a house that will be around for decades, it is worth it. Looks like this is someplace that will get cold and the garage will be cold. The big difference is the summer time when the sun is beating on the side of the house. You don't want your garage to be a sauna. I live in an expensive house and the garage is way too hot in the late afternoon when the west sun is beating down.
Glad you feel better.
Thank you very much!
We used a self closing swinging door for our pantry and are very happy with it. Standard and pocket doors are more cumbersome especially if you're carrying items and in a pantry you typically are. Imagine having to make a trip back to close either type after setting your items down almost every time. The hinge mechanism also has an auto-hold open if you fully open the door.
That's a great idea! I never thought of using a self closing door for a pantry. The auto-hold open is a great feature if you are bringing in several trips of groceries.
@@pinnaclebuilds1011 The hinge assembly is by Bommer (7800 series) here's a link to the product. czcams.com/video/uHFieU04Y2g/video.html My carpenter installed and I hadn't seen the internal workings until just now. It's fairly ingenious.
In Montana qe extreme weather. Sumner and winter. Zip system is a no go here. They use it but you should use 1/2 osb then cover it with 1/2 foam.
That actually helps everywhere if you think about it.
Use silicone sealing up the edges before sheathing it. Anything to seal that up is better.
Great work. Yes, I’d be happy to pay extra for the zip-R in the garage. Not worth skimping on a house of that quality.
Do you think the Zip R3 is worth it for a 2500 sq ft $400-500k build in Nebraska (the full range of temps and weather)? Walls may also have some closed-cell and insulation batts in them.
The Zip-R insulation and air barrier is expensive. The time and cost-saving advantage is the insulation and air barrier are applied on one step. I’m not a professional builder, but just wondering, did you compare the cost of the Zip-R to alternatives such as Rockwool Comfortboard 80? I really think adding exterior insulation is worth the investment.
You would have to figure it out for your application, every situation will be different. When I look at CI like Zip R, the break even for me is 15-20 years out. At the current trend of inflation and energy cost it is looking more like 15 years now. On paper I could save $600 and up to $800/year, but with inflation and fuel prices that is changing fast. I had run my numbers doubling inflation an fuel costs in 2016, and we have now hit those numbers a lot sooner than expected. I need to do windows, and siding will need to be painted or replaced in the next 5 years so do them both and add in CI.
A close up video explaining the type of windows and doors picked out for a project. Why they where chosen and close up after installed
You got it, we will go over that as soon as we get the windows on site for this project.
how fire resistant is the foam backing
I am redoing a brick home in DESOTO, TX ... is a ZIP system good for the outside
Looks like you glued the zip panels together. What did you use?
Skip to 14:00 for what he has to say about Zip R. Spoiler: There's no answer.
Love the content! I’d like to see what you do with your basements as far as insulation i.e. exterior or interior insulation, foam board, spray foam ect. I often see this overlooked and poorly insulated in almost all zones. I like the benifits of the Halo insulation products in this area myself. Thanks!
halo very $$
Just curious. At 2:42 the beam you were standing about underneath, was not setting directly on a corresponding built up column. What am I missing?
That is a hard decision on if it is worth it for the Zip system with the insulation.
Question: I understand it depends on a host of factors, but just ballpark, what is the cost of a poured concrete shell (not ICF) verses a high performance framed shell using 2x6s per linear foot of wall?
Do you use the pocket door frames that you can buy or do you have the framers turn 2X material sideways to make the frames
We are leaning towards trying CS Cavity Sliders on this project but trying to justify the cost. With the number of sliders in this house, it would be about $4,000 for just the slider mechanisms.
I have an old 1950’s ranch that has T&G for sheeting and 2x4 walls. This year I am going to be rehabbing the exterior of my house roofing trim siding and windows. I am wondering if it is worth it for me to use the r-3 sheathing for my house to just give a a tighter seal not so much added r to the walls. Any suggestions would be helpful thanks.
What area of the country are you located?
I wonder about this as well. I live is San Francisco, same 50’s ranch. Stucco is falling off the house considering new windows and zip r3 with hardier board and batten siding.
Would I be able too use that in tx under the house my house is lifted
I'm planning to build a custom home in Maryland, climate zone 4. I'm planning to do continuous insulation and trying to decide between Zip R-6 vs regular OSB+1" polyiso as separate materials. Although the latter would probably be cheaper in material costs having to go around the house twice with the additional labor costs would likely make the total costs a wash. Was wondering what you thought? Thanks.
In MD I would go with ZIP system. You want your vapor barrier on the outside, not the inside because of the humidity.
Definitely zip. It’s far superior from a technical standpoint and you’re right, the latter would probably end up costing the same with labor.
OK, I want to see an $80 bracket. Any links?
Does that R sheathing have a radiant barrier on it?.
Do the framers not install more than one stud from the plate to the header above an opening if there is a loading bearing point from an LVL beam on the plate
They do, but a lot of times they get added after the walls are up and the LVL's are set.
we are going to choose ZipR3 combined with Anderson 100 windows. we had to preorder the windows before knowing for sure that we are going with the ZipR3. Will the windows be a weird fit due to the extra half inch insulation included in the ZipR3 sheathing?
also, what ZipR did you go with? if you mentioned it in this video I might have missed it
@@bamc3835 It will depend if you ordered the windows with preinstalled jamb extensions. If not, you will be perfectly fine. If you have jamb extensions already installed, your finish carpenter should be able to work some magic for you! We also used the Zip R3 on this project.
Confused why a lot of their headers don't have jack studs... it's like they are held in place by nails from the other side of the king stud.
Subscribed! Do you think the cost of Zip-R will come down at some point?
I'm sorry for the delayed response! My guess would be that the Zip-R will come back down, but I'm not sure by how much.
Price will decline when the patent expires and competitors don't have to license
I have a big concern at 3:52 where above the tall window you have a MASSIVE point load landing on just one 2x4 above the window lintel. The lintel may be sized correctly but that point load a massive beam above and the other interconnecting beam that is attached to it means you have heaps of loading. You should at least have a 4x4?
oops I should watch the whole video before commenting answer @ 7:23 :P
@@woasc0ut I'm still going to go back to the site this afternoon and double check to make sure that the added 2x6 was put above that window! Now you've got me questioning my memory, lol. We start drywall on this project in two weeks, so the cavity is still open.
@@woasc0ut Ok, I made a run out to the project this afternoon and am happy to report we have a quad support under that beam. I made sure to call it out on the episode that's going live tomorrow morning! Thank you for the attention to detail!!
I would happily pay the extra $10,000 for the Zip-R, but the reality is that most homes are spec houses and most home buyers are completely stupid when it comes to building a house. For that reason as well as the fact that home appraisals don’t accurately reflect real value in homes, I think building codes need to mandate more advances that will never become mainstream otherwise. The unfortunate truth is that good builders have to compete with cheap builders for the same customers so you have to be careful how much you give away on each job.
I didn’t realize most homes are spec homes. You’re talking about the US? If you invest in installing additional exterior insulation, can’t this upgrade be promoted as a means to justify a higher priced spec house? Perhaps the average consumer requires being informed by the realtor. I’d much rather buy a more efficient, quality built house, even if it is more expensive, rather than a cheaply built alternative. The better insulated home will save the owners money over the long term. I can’t believe the average consumer would not value this.
Home buyers aren't the experts, the builder is being paid to be the expert. It's the responsibility of builders to improve their industry, but the fact is they're more concerned about their profit margins than the quality of their product. Every home built these days should be implementing these basic features, but production builder and the codes they build to are mostly pathetic in the USA. Europe figured this out decades ago.
@@dlg5485 you make a good point european homes are built too much higher standards - but then again new construction homes in usa could easily be 150$ a sqft while in europe is pushing alot closer to 300$ a sqft!! i think as much as people want high quality construction and better insulation -- they prefer cheaper homes they can afford
@@zombiesoul-eater741 Again, that's because the industry in the USA is all about maximizing margins. A 20% cut just for the builder is absurd in my opinion. Some of that margin should go into building a better home. Also, It's up to the builder to educate the client on what their real options are and the associated costs. Some clients will gladly spend an extra 10% if they understand the profound difference it'll make in the finished product.
@@dlg5485 depending on area spec homes can sit and sit and sit. why pay for it when buyer can do custom house
Thermal breaks are required by IRC and codes now. Usually min is R5 on the exterior, You could have gotten sheets of polyiso + zip for less than the ZIP R which is what I'm doing.
That’s what I’m going to do as well. Pricing them separately is almost half price of Zip R
why polyiso vs rockwool? (in the same boat) and debating between ZipR, polyiso, rockwool, and honestly even LP's weatherlogic panels that seem to be the same as ZIP at a significantly lower cost. @steven7650@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy
Don’t forget to include labor and lift rental costs in that budget. With labor nowadays, it may be a closer cost than you think.
@@genesky9325I ripped off the 200 y/o sheathing so my insulation is behind the wood. It means I don't have to worry about condensation ever hitting the wood. With insulation over the wood you have to maintain the correct ratio or you could cause condensation on the wood or in the wall. Also rockwoll is vapor open so it can go outside. polyiso can't go over the wood in climate zones 3a+ it must be able to dry to the outside.
Does the Zip-R have a radiant barrier, the old stuff in 2014 said it did, but I can't find any info that it is included on the latest Zip-R sheathing? I see 1" radiant stuff at Home Depot for under $10 a sheet(not sure type of foam). I was going to use open cell foam in the rafter space here in zone 3, but I think I will use Zip Roof with 1" radiant foam between the rafter and Zip and then put Rockwool in rafter space. That should give an airtight roof with a conditioned attic and radiant barrier under roof foam with over 1" plus air space between rockwool R-24 and radiant foam. Does anyone think the foam should be glued to the bottom of the Zip panels on 24" rafter spacing?.
I hope he was thanking Jesus when he said that. Glad you got better.
whats that sealing the zip r together on the back?
I think it is just a glue strip/stain of some sort that just looks like some kind of seam but is actually running across the field of the 4x8 piece. I thought the same as you. But I have since used ZipR on a home and it also had strips/stain lines running across the foam side that looked just like that in the video.
You can't know if it was worth it until the house is done,can't the occupants experience a hot summer and a cold winter.
Where do you buy Zip R sheathing?
We purchase through our local lumber yard, Schilling Brothers in Saint John, IN.
These inflated prices are obscene.
We completly agree!
The question is in the end is it worth it. Up front no but long run yes.
This has to be a $1mil + home, no? $10k is pocket change for the added benefits of a full thermal break. Good work, btw.
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, this house will go to market just over $1m. I think we're going to use the Zip R9 or R12 in a project we have coming up next year.
lol, tell us your profit margin and then I'll tell you if it was worth it or not. Something tells me you have enough gravy to spar the extra 10Gs. I know from the builders of custom homes in the Chicagoland area that the actual construction materials of the house is not the biggest cost, the lot, and labor are. In fact, I had a builder try and bribe my x wife by offer to build a custom home at cost if we bought the lot and he said the materials were 75,000$. My x wife worked for the community development with the inspectors.
This is a spec home, so we don't have a set margin as it will fluctuate with what the market brings for the home. We were targeting 18%, but it won't be that high. You had a custom builder offer to build you a home for a total of $75,000 in materials? That seem beyond unreasonably low. We have ~$115,000 in lumber alone in this project, $38,000 in windows, $60,000 in cabinets, $30,000 in countertops, $15,000 in exterior doors, and that's just the rough strokes of the big ticket items. We haven't selected flooring yet, but materials alone will most likely be in the $30k range.
No, I don't think that Zip-R is worth it. If you watch the videos from "Spray Jones" on CZcams, you will see that thermal bridging is less of an issue when you use 2x6 suds. You could have framed the outside walls using 2x6's at 24" o.c.( using Closed cell foam) yet have the same energy cost as using Zip-R. Zip is way over-priced mainly because of the patent that Huber has on it. Once the patent runs out, that will open it to more competitors .
When should that patent expire?
@@brendanmcgowan508 I have heard 2025, but not 100% sure.
@@ledebuhr1 I'm looking forward to more competition in that space.
@@brendanmcgowan508 me too.
LP Novacore and GP Forcefield are comparable
I can’t really hear anything
audio is very low
re-post please
Our apologies, we had a mic issue and didn't realize it until after the fact.
That title is doing some lifting the video isnt keeping up with,
I don't care about the layout. talk about zip r
So just scroll forward dude
not worth it particularly considering the insulation should actually go on the outside. backwards product.
This is CLICKBAIT!!
Terrible audio...
booo