EXPERT TIPS| Continuous Insulation
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- Idiot proof continuous insulation. Zip R Sheathing panels, part of the Zip System Sheathing family. These panels combine structural sheathing (water resistive barrier + air control layer) with polyisocyanurate foam insulation. Building science made easy.
www.huberwood.com/zip-system/...
To understand what we are trying to accomplish, I recommend reading this article by Steve Baczek bit.ly/UnderstandingRValue
buildshownetwork.com/
0:00 Thermal Bridging Eradicated
1:38 Why Does Code Require Continuous Insulation
5:44 Framing Layout for Insulation
8:29 Outside & Inside Corners
12:57 Installing Zip R www.huberwood.com/zip-system/...
15:00 Nail Size
15:35 Panel Length to Reduce Waste
17:32 Foam on the Wrong Side? Myth Busted
21:30 Long Nails for Backing
22:56 Deck Ledger
23:40 Taping Corners
26:28 Awesome Framers hats
27:53 Protect the Bottom Edge
32:17 Setting Windows & Doors www.innotech-windows.com/
34:34 Go Follow Steve stevenbaczekarchitect.com/info/
Some of the links below are affiliate links. I may make a small commission off of them.
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Oh and another takeaway, if you use a drone for commercial work, you need to be part107 certified. Commercial work includes social media like CZcams if you plan to make an income off of that. I watched a video about this last May and then purchased the Part 107 Course sso.teachable.com/secure/2458... I studied and learned for 1 month and then took my test. I scored a 95%, which is a testament to how good Greg and the crew over there teach. That link will save you $100 off the course and support this channel.
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Spotify Playlist ??
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#building #construction #framing
I recently built a house (my own), and fabricated my own "ZIP-R" panels on site. It was really easy -- just hit each 7/16 ZIP sheathing panel with a shot of Advantech subfloor foam glue on each corner, and one in the middle. Then slapped a sheet of 1" XPS foam onto it. Let each panel set up for about 1 hour. The Advantech glue bonds the two layers like cement, and this saved quite a bit of money as compared to purchasing the ZIP-R panels from Huber. All you really need is enough glue to hold the two layers together until the panel is installed.
sweet tip!
I would be surprised if you any AHJ allowed an amalgamation like that since there is no testing of the assembly as required by code for approval
@@AwesomeFramers Probably right about that. But my inspector didn't fuss over this. Yet it's hard to see what difference the assembly process could make??? I don't think the foam board adds anything to the structural integrity of the panels (while also not detracting significantly). And so long as you attach the sheathing itself according to Huber specs, this just counts as another layer of insulation. Or? Am I missing something? (and thanks for you feedback!). I'd be more worried with thicker poly iso boards -- e.g., 2" or greater.
@@ceterisparibus51it for sure works, it’s just not code stamped or listed as engineered and tested. So depending on where you live it may be a total no go.
@@ceterisparibus51 With Zip R you get warranty, and testing that is submitted to the code. You no longer have the warranty when you modify the use of the panel outside of the installation instructions. Will you actually have a probably? Likely not, but there's nothing to back you up if there is a problem. I've been to the see Huber's racking testing personally, its worth using the suite of products and being covered.
Love to see you building with Steve and love these videos.
Great to see a framer concerned about structural integrity of a building. So many homes ive inspected have that missing. We are in a high seismic zone also and there is a lot to consider when framing a house, shearwalls, hold downs, species of lumber etc.
I drove my builder/framer crazy with all your videos I would share with him because I wanted him to know what quality of framing I expected. In the end, I didn’t get quite as good as I wanted but I got much better quality than the big developers offered in our area.
We ended up with a very well insulated house with an ACH of 0.6 and once the house was insulated, before drywall, I could get the interior temperature to +7°C with two 1500 W space heaters when the outside winter temperatures were -27°C.
Thanks to your videos I have an exceptionally good quality home because I learned what good quality framing and homes should look like.
I was a professional framer for years and you are very misinformed. Your framer and your GC are not responsible to design your home insulation systems. I am a licensed GC now and I have a Civil Engineering degree, so for my clients, I sometimes do design work. But a framer is not qualified to design your insulation system, nor are they trained to do so. "Builders" as you call them, probably refer to your GC. Generally, it is not the GC's responsibility to do design work, depending on the size of the project. For custom homes, it is the homeowner's responsibility to provide permitted design plans to the GC unless you make arrangements with the GC to pay him for that service. But a LOT of GCs are not trained in home design and insulation systems. So you were trying to get design service for free from your GC and it sounds like you didn't pay him for that service. You should know that the GC is required to build any structure strictly in compliance with the permit plans. He is not responsible, nor should he, build your home according to your personal quirks and superstitions.
It sounds like there were a lot of insulation details that you demanded that were not communicated in writing to the GC BEFORE he bid on the project. So, he should have changed-ordered you for each one of the insulation details that you demanded in the name of "quality." You can't pay for Toyota Camry and expect your builder to construct a Lexus under the same budget. Competent GCs who know what they are doing will often avoid clients like you because you are petulantly demanding quality that you did not specify in the original design and you didn't pay for.
BY FAR, most heat and cool loss is transferred through the windows. So if you cheaped out on the windows, then all of the insulation details you add to the walls and roof won't make much difference. And the "builder" doesn't usually choose your windows for you unless, again, you pay him to design your entire insulation system.
Showing "videos" to your builder and demanding that "quality" level is only appropriate BEFORE he bid the home out or if you are willing to pay for changes that were not in the original scope that was defined for the project. For example, it makes a HUGE difference to frame a home with 2" x 6" lumber as opposed to 2" x 4" lumber. But it costs more labor and materials to use 2" x 6" lumber because it is much heavier and harder to erect. If you didn't ask for 2" x 6" framing when the home was bid out, then you should be willing to pay for the upgrade that you have ordered.
@@franklong6269 Wow, you are certainly assuming quite a lot from the short amount of information that I wrote. Like I said, the framing was better than other builders work that I’ve seen but there were some things that had to be fixed/changed because someone was in a rush or just made a mistake. I’m not going into details because that’s not important since the project is complete and the house is built better than the previous house that existed on the foundation. I’m going to repeat myself here, watching these videos helped my project to be better built than most of the new builds that I have seen in the past few years. And the ZipR6 helped to get both the insulation and air leakage to a level that most of the local developers in my area aren’t doing.
Design, drawings, engineering, permits, etc were all done professionally btw.
@@franklong6269 Did I mention what lumber dimension the wall assembly was? I didn’t. Actually it was double stud 2x4 with a 1” gap between the walls. The builder knew exactly what was expected before he took the job because I made sure to be very clear and upfront with the plans. Hence the sharing of the videos with details that I particularly wanted because the intention was to get to Net Zero with some passive house standards. There were some mistakes made but most got corrected and some I’ll have to forgive, like the post imbedded in concrete by the staircase that’s 4” off from the blueprint indication. But overall, it’s a very good house, thanks to the things that were learned from watching videos like Awesome Framers.
Roll the tape!
If you paid for the changes, then it should not have "driven your builder crazy." If your plans were done correctly, it should not have "driven your builder crazy." That's not being presumptuous, those are your own words.
Nothing is wrong with what you want. The quality you wanted was a smart choice. And sometimes, many times, architects do a very poor job in designing various wall systems. My point is none of this was your GC's fault or your framer's fault. They are not licensed to design homes, though GCs do have some design responsibility based on code requirements.
I have come to expect that when clients bring me a set of plans for a custom home, I will have to spend significant time fixing those plans because there are almost always important "omissions" and "errors."
For example, I had one client that I built an addition for. They had hired an architect and he made two critical errors in his plans. With the first error, he specified a roof height that was wrong. It was wrong because the peak height of the roof trusses on the addition had to match the peak height of roof on the existing home or the entire roof system would not work. I was about to order the trusses for the project, and I took some time to double-check the dimensions that the architect provided. Had I used his dimensions, the additional roof would have been 1.5 feet too low, and it would have cost my client thousands of dollars. They would have had to buy the trusses twice because the wrong size trusses would not have been usable.
The second error was that the architect put the main door of the house approximately 6 feet away from the correct location. Again, this would have been a massive mistake had I not caught it because this is a stucco home and it would have been a nightmare to move the door after the house was stuccoed.
A third mistake was that the client wanted to hang a swinging three-seat exteriror chair off of the addition's patio beam, which was also stuccoed. The structural beam to carry the large chair system was not in the plans. Luckily, when I spoke with them, they told me about the large chair and I reinforced the beam structure before stucco to carry it.
I took photos of the framing and the build of the house at different stages and gave them a photo album so they would know where all of the plumbing, the electrical wiring and the structural beams and studs are. A few years later, they tried to hang the swing and they could not find the beam. I came out for free and showed them where it was. I asked them to pull out their photo album and when they checked, I had provided a picture of where the beam was and they had not thought o look in the album. They were older, and so I helped them several times without charging them.
After I found so many errors in the architectural plans, I asked my clients if the architect had ever come out to the house and taken measurements for the new addition. I was stunned when they said he had never even come to the house once to check his dimensions. This could have cost them tens of thousands of dollars and this was just an addition, not an entire home.
This is an example of things that "drive builders crazy." They are often left to pick up the pieces of a huge mess that they did not create, and the client often tends to blame the builder because they are frustrated and angry.
Maybe this small example gives you view into the other side of the real world that your builder lives in.
@@franklong6269 You misconstrued my comment, I jokingly said that I drove my builder crazy because I sent him videos to explain what the project was about and what was expected. My builder also joked about how I sent him videos, but being in the millennial age group, got the point.
Most of the builders in my area don’t build Net Zero projects and aren’t familiar with the products that I specified to use, like the ZipR6 and the tape was totally new to my builder as was the double stud wall but he was willing to learn, so he assured me. In the circle of people in my area that are building Net Zero projects, the consensus is that not enough builders are interested in learning about products and methods that will achieve the standards. Like I previously said, I didn’t get quite as good as I wanted but I got better than the usual house construction that is common in developments in my area.
CORRECTION: Continuous insulation is NOT the only way to meet the new energy code in WA state. It is the simplest in our opinion as builders (our company). Continuous insulation in the form of Zip R sheathing is the most cost effective way for us to meet the requirements. It lowers labor cost, requires less training, and is more efficient that other methods.
I was talking with a local architect who has an in-house engineer and they mentioned using WSU's "C3 Calculator" to go around the continuous insulation requirement, but I haven't read into that much. I would like to use ZIP R6.6 but it's quite expensive where I live in Pierce County.
@@lucascole7589basically - show that your entire building thermal envelope has a UA less than target UA (UAT). From what I’ve seen and worked on, continuous insulation is not required at all to meet the target UA. There are more cost effective ways to meet these requirements. I’m not discounting what these guys are doing, ZIP-R is a fantastic product. It is however cost prohibitive and generally unnecessary when using the alternative method outlined in R204.1.4
Building has changed a lot from when I started in the early seventies i always thought that we should have been using a weather resistant tape I've found duct tape and other stuff on demo's this system now is what i always thought should have been easy to get. Thanks
Really nice to see you up your game wrt efficiency. Good to see Steve on the job.
Thank you, always great to hang out with Tim
Great information on the use of these panels and the energy conservation involved. I will rewatch just to reinforce my understanding. Great video
Thank you for joining in
I am a licensed GC in AZ and a Civil Engineer who has done structural engineering. In AZ, we are concerned about the heat, not the cold and that is what we insulate homes here to protect them. I have installed several 2" x 6" framed homes that are stuccoed, and they are exceptionally energy efficient. Now, with stucco, you do have a 1.5" insulating board installed under the stucco. So there is, in a sense, a continuous insulation barrier, but it's like R-2, so it's not much. I am a big fan of the Zip system, but the continuous insulation system you are specifying is expensive. It would be interesting to see the insulation difference between a standard 2" x 6" framed home with non-insulated Zip shear panel and the R-9 Zip you are using. I am betting that the actual difference would not be that great. I think you are quickly coming to the point of diminishing returns, where you are just burning money. However, in Washington, where it does get very cold, it may actually be worth the additional money to pay for the insulated Zip board in extreme weather conditions.
While I am not a cold-climate expert, I am very skeptical about the numbers this "architect" spouted off for cold transferring over five inches through 2" x 6" wood studs. Yes wood has a low R-Factor compared to insulation, but you have to consider the thickness of the wood framing members when doing these calculations. I don't think this architect understands that. The continuous insulation barrier system is better, no doubt. And both heat and cold will transfer through wood. But it is the AMOUNT of transfer that we have to be concerned about. Saying that an R-21 2" x 6" insulated wall system is "R-9" if it doesn't have a continuous insulation system is complete BS - he doesn't know what he's talking about. The R-Factor of wall systems is measured as a complete system, and that is where the R-21 number comes from. It would be blatantly illegal to promise an R-21 insulation factor with a 2" x 6" clad wall system and deliver an R-9 insulation factor - it would be fraud. In AZ, a stuccoed 2" x 6" wall system with fiberglass batt insulation and 2" foam under the stucco is nearly R-30, and they are VERY energy efficient. I know because I have built dozens of them, and they just work, provided they are installed correctly. During the summer, we get temperatures that range from 110 degrees F - 120 degrees F for several weeks in a row. At night sometimes the temperature does not get below 95 degrees F. So these conditions are about as extreme as you are going to find anywhere. Insulation is a big deal here because, without it, your home becomes unlivable in the summer. BTW, no one installs double sills here in AZ, no one. Your guest really doesn't have a clue about national construction methods.
I have framed structures in several countries, and nobody uses double sills. There's nothing wrong with using double sill plates, but you can attach shear panels to walls with single sill plates. Further if your double bottom plates are not both attached to the concrete with J-bolts or redheads, then your structure does not meet code PERIOD! It is possible in extreme cold that using double bottom plates arose to provide additional insulation against the frost line reaching into the home from the ground.
Finally, while your structural engineer is correct, and you do get some limited shear value using the R-9 Zip panels, it is nowhere near as strong as a regular shear panel that is nailed 4" O.C. This won't matter if you are in zones that don't have hurricanes, high wind events, earthquakes or tornadoes. But if you are in one of these zones, the inherent weakness of the R-9 Zip shear panel may become a factor and the home could fail. I have never run the calcs on the difference between standard, non-insulated, shear and the R-9 Zip, but I would bet the R-9 is at least 50% -75% weaker in catastrophic storm events than standard shear panel. Standard shear panel has been proven to hold a house together in 200 mph winds, hurricanes and tornados and I personally would not lose that level of protection if the home I was constructing was in a high-risk area. Being cock-sure that you are right, like this architect who is your guest, doesn't make him right. Just because a structural engineer said it was okay in one application doesn't mean it is the best system for all applications. In short, if the home was in a high-risk area and I wanted to install Zip R-9 panels, I would shear the exterior of the walls normally and then install the R-9 Zip over that shear.
Love it, fantastic best practice details.
Timely video! All the builders and suppliers in our area are scrambling for CI solutions right now (although we knew it was coming for over a year). Naturally, everyone thinks their pet idea is the exact right way to do it. I'm kind of liking the ZIP system - fenestration flashing is a lot simpler vs trying to flash a furred-out RO.
There are a lot of benefits. Truthfully, if we could find a better way to do it, we would. This is the simplest and lowest cost we've found.
Love the game graphics, that flash tool looks like a composite carpet tuck tool.
Great video.
The architect has a classic flat top hair cut. When I was a kid in the late 50's early 60's we loved getting flattops for the new school year. Plus some of our astronaut heroes had flat tops too. We had these giant chap stick type holders that had this sticky wax you would put in your hair do you could make it stand up properly. Dust and bugs took up residence I'm sure.
Had it since Parris Island '84
I'm in Ontario, Canada and was looking into this sheathing. They told me my local dealer was a Rona about an hour away, so I took a trip as I wanted to see what this sheathing was all about. They did not have any, said they could order it and then the salesman tried to sell me on a ICF system. That's what I was thinking of doing anyway, but wanted to see if I could use Zip on other parts of the house. LOL
Oh man I almost fast-forwarded at that Low T joke 😂
Increased sheathing costs. Increased ventilation costs. Increased maintenance costs on sophisticated air exchange units. Increased labor cost on HVAC. All in the name of saving $30 a month on energy bills.😂 In Western Washington, which has an extremely mild climate. I had my windows open 24/7, 365 when I lived there.
Meanwhile, here in NC, we have brutal humid summers and actual winters and all we need is 2x4s with batts. 🤷♂️
I totally understand your points. I do think though, that this is too narrow a view. We gain a lot of benefits from going with CI and high performance windows. We'll do a cost breakdown in another video. We were able to reduce the HVAC equipment. We view CI as part of the mechanical system, even though it isn't. Viewing the structure is a holistic approach for us. We get a more comfortable building, a quieter building, more efficient building, have filtered air and our homes have much lower maintenance than our competitors.
I used ZIP-R on my house. I'm convinced it's worth the cost/effort, but introduces several complications. Among the most costly are custom window and door jambs.
It's not at all about hot or cold......it's about if you buy energy?
@@ceterisparibus51 I'm in the planning phase right now and will likely be forced into using ZIP R6.6. Two questions, why would windows need custom jambs? Did you just add 1" to the exterior door jambs? I'm mostly worried about a custom jamb for the 144"x96" patio door....
@@lucascole7589 Just to be clear, I am not a pro builder/carpenter. But a standard window/door jamb for a nominal 2x6 wall is *6 7/16"* deep (i.e., "standard" in the sense of not typically requiring a custom order). A typical ZIP-R6 wall will be *7 7/16"* deep (5 1/2" for the stud + 1" for the foam board + 7/16" sheathing + 1/2" interior drywall).
If you use floor or roof trusses, and you want your studs to line out for siding purposes, then layout needs to be thought through and addressed with the truss manufacture during the planning stages because otherwise you’ll waste a ton of zip sheathing trying to get the proper overlaps on your corners.
Good points. Preplanning is so important.
One question: do you roll the tape?
Take it a step further and mitre your exterior corners on the zip sheathing. I wish I had done that on my project. Would have my siding easier.
I don't see any value in mitering the corners. Overlapping is idiot proof, but now I want to try it 🤣🤣
I always put my fascia on before raising the wall and would toenail rafter tails to back side of subfascia of course making sure it was straight first.
We add the fascia after the tails are on, but prebuild the soffit.
Do you guys use ring shank nails for framing, floor and roof sheathing… 16d to 8d nails?
Awesome, nailed it, Framers
Can you do a video of installing an entry door with ZIP R6? The largest jamb widths are 6 9/16 unless you add a inch with extensions but with a stained wood door, I don't know if it would look clean. Not to mention finding some type of door sill/threshold extension.
Safety first. Remove battery on router when adjusting settings. Cheers
excellent point.
@12:00 you talk about having the 3rd stud for nailing of the sheathing. Is the 2nd (flat) stud used for structural purposes or just for nailing for the sheathing? Instead of using the 3rd normal facing stud for sheathing, could you slide over the "flat" stud and save yourself a stud piece? Amateur here to learn, thanks
Wouldn’t it make sense to install on the inside of exterior walls behind internal linings? Your heat source is inside thus removing the fact you will require more energy to heat framing etc if on the outside?
Newbie question here, shouldn't the sheathing panels be installed horizontally as opposed to vertically to help in preventing the framing structure from racking side to side? (IE: being able to attache the panel across 8' vs the 4' if attached vertically). I hope the question makes sense. I only ask because I spent a couple years in the mid eighties framing houses and I remember that it was code at that point in Alberta and also when I moved to BC shortly after.
Finaly your using a Router better suited to the job I am shocked the little 1/4 hp cordless even lasted as long as it did ..How you liking the metabo HTP I love mine ..was looking at the Milwaukee because it has the track adaptor but I have my Festool for that but for on the job warranty and durability so Far the Metabo is Boss cheers
Metabo HPT is a great router. The little DeWalt is from 2019. If it can route oak, it can route OSB 👍
I experienced issues with the foam board gumming up my router bit while cutting out openings (because the heat generated melts the foam). Don't know if this is typical???
I had understood that, in the Pacific Northwest, walls needed to dry to the outside. How is this possible with the Zip-R panels?
Through the drywall
i just have one question…. is there any way to make the house not so close to the neighbors(?) 😂
Just so I won't forget by the end of video, you may actually cover this, but on that inside corner do you cut back the osb part of the first sheet and then but in the corner piece so there is no thermal bridging in the corner? That 7/16" of osb touching the framing member will cost money in energy ya know, definitely measurable. I like the double mud sill idea.
Nope, just butt it. I run 1 panel into the corner, then the next panel into the panel.
STEVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Like a Sonic Boom!!!!
In our market builders are applying EFIS directly onto ZIP without a crinkle wrap or drainage wrap. I checked Huber’s technical specs and that is in fact shown in an image as an approved method of applying EFIS. Isn’t that asking for potential water penetration when the caulking between the EFIS and window ultimately fails? I wouldn’t think that there is much drying potential for the ZIP in this case.
What is with the gap between panels? Love Steve!
Insulation should be tight, panel gapped. You can see it when I was nailing the panel. I should have mentioned that.
Thank you!!!!
Will you be nailing the siding into studs ? If yes is there going to be enough nail penetration into studs? I guess if you use 3" glv. nails. But then there is window and door trim.
No, www.apawood.org/nail-base-sheathing and we use the Paslode TetraGrip studless nailer for a lot of siding.
Hacks lol i kinda got that feeling also double silliness
11:48 would it just be cheaper/faster to use a 2x8 instead of a extra stud?
Probably, but we don't order 10' 2x8 and cut them then down to stud length. I think by the time I factor in my time doing that it might be a wash just to grab a stud
Bought the max stick nailer out. Thats one sexy looking nailer😂
Maybe I missed it, but with Zip R sheathing, do you now eliminate the interior vapor barrie in Northern zones?
I don't know.
North of 50 here, we still used interior vapour barrier on our double stud walls with exterior Zip R6 sheathing as recommended by the experienced insulation contractor we hired to install Rockwool against the exterior Zip R6 and blown in cellulose between that and the drywall. Worked great when the temperature dipped below -40°C.
That’s exactly my question. Here in Wisconsin we are required to use a vapor barrier.
so efficient no one can afford it
Can also use the Stretch Tape. I haven't done the CBA on Stretch, VS. 3" VS 6".
I don't see the advantage of the Stretch in this application. It would be tough to work with, most expensive and Huber warranty covers the 2 seam tape or 1 6". Let me know how it goes :-)
@@AwesomeFramers the only advantage is one less "trip" vs the 3"
@@hu5tle- 3? With the 6" its 1 and with the seam tape its 1 that takes a little longer. Maybe I'm missing your application. I can bring 2 rolls of seam tape up the ladder and work down using both before climbing off. The 6" is super easy. Stretch is very hard to work with and slower/more expensive for corners because of how well is stretches.
@@AwesomeFramers yes, less up and down the ladder with the 6", vs. 2x with the 3". Seems like, for good reason, you want to minimize trips up and down ladders.
@@hu5tle- thing is, ladder work = giant calves
“B T Dubs” 😂😂😂
What about shear? The sheathing is not directly tied to the framing, as the 1" insulation is between the framing and sheathing.
You could get the stiffness back with just some lay-in braces before applying the sheathing
I don't' think that offers enough lateral resistance where we are at. I would look at metal strapping from Strong-Tie as an option if we can't get enough lateral on a future plan.
The number of concerns people have with shear values and ZIP R seems to increase as the foam gets thicker between the OSB and the studs. What if you just added diagonal metal bracing straps to the studs for extra shear resistance when using ZIP-R thicker than R6?
And as an aside, the Godfather of Forensic Building Science, Dr. Joe Lstiburek, once said of ZIP-R: "Good luck achieving shear values with that" - I don't think he was a fan.
Great details on framing with Zip R6. Why didn’t you slope the bottom of the widow rough opening? Surprised Steve didn’t say anything.
Great question, and I'm going to be blunt. This is a waste of time, it doesn't actually work. We'd rather focus on detailing the siding and windows/doors/roof correctly. There are 10s of 1000s of homes that have no issue with water that would have been mitigated by sloped sills BUT there is zero evidence besides hypothesis that they work. Now I'm specifically talking about the siding we use here in the PNW e.g. fiber cement, SmartSide, cedar, shingles, lap and board on board, etc. We've pulled a lot of siding off old building and found nothing bad that wasn't directly related to crappy installation.
As an example of my thinking, when I drive my car inside the garage after being in the rain, I see very little water on the ground. A few hours and its gone, that is with a sloped slab. I know, its not a great example. We will never see enough water past our siding and window that would overcome physics and drain down and out. In fact the ring from my coffee dries quickly and I just clean it up.
So when do we get an alternative to the zip system and bring the prices down?
you can buy OSB, 1 inch rigid foam panels, and a house wrap ... if you want to save on materials
the reason people still use zip-R is it probably costs them more on labor to do it that way or the client is willing to pay more
There are a lot of alternatives, all of which have a higher installed cost. This is why we chose this.
@@dovahkindragonborn9827 you won't save any money if you buy and install these separately. I've done it, it's much more in labor, a lot more.
Hi!
Why don't you chamfer the sheets at the corners? :)
Nick
I don't feel its worth the time. Whatever we can do to make all of this simple is my thinking.
@@AwesomeFramers You're absolutely right, but for a tool shed or a doghouse etc made of leftover sheets would be sickly cool... 😉
I’m willing to bet $500 that when this residence is complete, if we did a UA target calculation and compared it to the UA factor of the entire building envelope, R402.1.4 would show that continuous insulation was completely unnecessary to meet code.
That’s not to say it’s not a great product. It’s just not required in most cases.
What is the integrity of the sheer portion of this sheathing product? Likely fastening with 2 1/2 nails? The sheer can't be equal to a conventional sheathing material.
I addressed that in the video. For the R6 we need to shoot a 3" minimum nail for shear. www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/Code-Recognition-in-High-Seismic-for-Insulated-ZIP-System-R-sheathing-ER-0482.pdf
How would tape the zip if it was on the inside of the wall
Inside corner? I showed that toward the end.
👍🔨
Isn’t a Zip-R panel just half a (skinny) SIP panel?
How toxic is that Styrofoam when it catches a fire? And how flammable is it?
The polysio has a higher rating than other foam insulation and is above the code threshold for requirements to cover in our code.
Just keeps driving the cost of new homes out of the reach of most people.
Last month We got a new house to pass the codes with very little extra effort.
No spray foam, no zip, no extra crap. Just read the code book.
Did it meet the new energy code in WA? I do feel your pain, ire or whatever we call this feeling. I am just showing how to do it right, but personally I am not in favor of most of these changes due to lack of affordability. I cannot afford to live in the homes I work on. CZcams doesn't pay me enough for that 🤣🤣🤣😪😪
@@AwesomeFramers We passed the newest code here in Ct. The builder we frame for doesn't own a hammer but loves to read the code book and do his research. A lot of people and inspectors think there is only one way to get the efficiency, the code book has a lot of either / or. and the people selling zip and spray foam just push their products.
We met all requirements and blew away the blower door test. (see what i did there) the company that did the test , did it 3 times because they never seen that kind of a score on a residential home.
@@stevenleiler9034 but specifically could you find out which code because a lot of these continuous insulation requirements are just going into effect.
@@stevenleiler9034 Interesting to hear you tout the blower door test number, but don't actually cite it......must have been soooo good
It's always hilarious to listen to Steve talk about stuff he doesn't understand. Heat transfer calculations are under the HVAC engineer's purview thank God because architects don't know this stuff. The term thermal bridging doesn't even exist in the handbook. He forgot to include the exterior siding, drywall, and surface films in his math. Time to go back to school Steve.
Thanks for watching the videos. He was just talking about insulation. I look forward to your articles in trade magazines.
First of all, I do understand. How many residential projects typically have an HVAC Engineer? Oh thank you so much......it's not in the handbook so it doesn't exist, great way to look at it. As for the "extra" materials you cited, yes, they do exist, but their cumulative math, simply doesn't move the needle much. Keep up the great work, you're killing it!!!!
So they call a carpet push a quick flasher
www.quickflashproducts.com/products/ft-flashing-tool/
Polyiso (and XPS) R value drops as the outside temperature goes down - not a great feature for northern climates, but OK for southern. Also R value degrades with age, Polyiso’s R value drops 20% in 5 to 10 years. EPS (expanded polystyrene) insulation keeps its R value as temperature goes down and is expanded using Pentane gas, not hydrochlorofluorocarbons which is used to expand XPS.
Since you are closing the envelope I assume you are bringing in fresh makeup air?
yep, we bring in air and filter it through and ERV. I'll do a video with my brother to follow up on this.
Pay the farmers more money they will do better
I don't agree. I've seen wages to way up, entitlement with it, and quality didn't follow.
This is why house pricing will never go down. With all the new requirements added every year, all they do is add to the cost of building a house.
Innotech windows and doors are awful. We stopped using them.
Awful how?
They have been great for us. What didn't work well for you all?
@@AwesomeFramers just a few things that started adding up over a few projects, we did about 7 houses and pushed the company hard to our clients because of the energy efficiency but in the end it didn’t make sense.
1. Too expensive (was driving up the costs of our builds)
2. Labour intensive, being too heavy, needed more man power than we normally use, plus some of our projects the windows were so big we needed to do our own glazing otherwise they would have been too heavy to install. Also they require equipment and personnel on site for delivery to unload their special racking (when you do projects on acreages in the middle of nowhere this became a logistics issue more times than not)
3. In extreme weather (we’ll get a couple weeks of -40Celsius) There were some thermal bridging issues with the metal clips used for install. They can transfer the cold right through to the custom jambs and cause moisture issues.
4. Doors were sometimes a real pain to get to latch correctly and clients were having trouble with them.
That being said we tried them out in the very beginning and haven’t used them for years so maybe some of these issues have cleared up. There are some definitely cool features on their products that are worth the price. If clients want them we will use them but don’t promote it anymore.
0:56 1:18 Mr. B-roll is really hogging your voiceover. When editing your videos, please consider having only one person talking at a time.
Those rollers are so dumb. I guarantee you can make that tape stick better rubbing it on with your hand
Very doubtful
There are studies that show how wrong you are. BTW, it isn't just Huber that requires this, but look at where tapes are used in other industries......this is a requirement from the chemical companies that make the adhesives.
I think this is a Huber warranty concern. They can inspect any warranty claims by looking for the perforations left by a ZIP roller. Likewise a GC can check to see that their guys are installing it correctly.
@@ceterisparibus51 Rolled tape performs noticeably better than "hand pressed". Anyone can compare, they don't compare.
@@AwesomeFramers Agreed (and didn't mean to imply otherwise). The bigger issue, IMO, is that unless you are rolling yourself, or have a very disciplined crew, it's hard to get contractors to do this (correctly/consistently/thoroughly). In my neck of the woods, I think this is largely because they don't see the value of the ZIP system.
Low shear values, sorry
Lower yes compared with non insulated structural sheathing. Just like we size beams for specific loading, we can design shear walls for specific loading.
I don’t know Tim, this seams too much like rocket science. Not!
Making houses so "airtight" IS unhealthy and relies too heavily on HVAC IMHO. Not to mention what is off gassing from this Zip continuous insulation panels? Tons of plastic and Styrofoam in my house? No thank you.
THe beauty of America.... you have a choice!!