I discovered an AMAZING 2x6 trick for woodworkers!
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- ▼ IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO: ▼
- A great tutorial about cutting miters and bevels: • This video will change...
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Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv
(BOW is a small, 2-man business and a supporter of our channel. They are worth supporting!)
My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works: bridgecitytools.com/
Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!
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-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-catego...
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- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
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-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission) - Jak na to + styl
▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
- A great tutorial about cutting miters and bevels: czcams.com/video/7aZCdt8Cs8M/video.html
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv
*(BOW is a small, 2-man business and a supporter of our channel. They are worth supporting!)*
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Just thought I'd tell you that after watching one of your videos I bought myself a BOW Featherboard, I love it. Beats making my own and also beats the yellow one I had bought a few years back.
"I suggest labeling it." The best advice in the entire video!
Drill a hole in it too. If a piece of timber is hanging on a nail it makes me think I must have kept it for a good reason!
Finding leprechauns is easier than finding a straight 2x6
I hear ya on that, although it also depends on where you're looking for them. I've had better look with small lumber yards than the big box stores for that kind of thing. Of course, it's not going to be as cheap as the box store.
Sure it's easy
Just ask one of dem liddell fellas
I have seen hockey sticks straighter than wood at the Depot and other places.
@@brettbarager9101 we have a store in the uk called B and Q. I like to think of the wood that they supply as "bendy and quirky"
@@clemmcguinness1087 then you understand the Home Depot experience here in the states. :)
I'm largely a metal worker but I still watch your delightful content.
Same here retired industrial sheet metal. I enjoy wood working. Many of my metal skills apply to wood. Lay out and working with machinery. I like his vids for the tips and practices but also the easy way he presents what ever the subject of the day is.
ha...was going to say exactly the same thing. I mostly work with steel yet still watch this stuff thinking 'you know, I might use that one day....'
@@donhappel9566 I thinking you will and your steel buddy’s will wonder how you came up with it.
Some of the best WW tips on the internet, thanks
You’re the textbook example of “work smarter not harder” philosophy! Great videos, keep them coming! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Wow. Novice here. Started this retirement hobby doing small boxes and frames. Awesome idea. Thanks dude. Go Wings
You’re living my dream. I’m 4 years from retirement
James, we can always count on you!! Great info.
There’s a directly proportional relationship between a persons experience level and the number of simple but extremely effective jigs hanging on their shop walls.
Never thought about plywood for splines, makes good sense, and simple.
I use my biscuit jointer for splines like you proposed. Easy, fast and precise.
Once again Stumpy made me feel like a fool! Something so simple and yet I have never though it. Thank you Sir!
I’ve used biscuits for this purpose when I didn’t want an exposed spline and the biscuit cutter largely eliminates the problems of material slippage or alignment to the cutter. I also do like cutting these on the table saw because then I can leave the material flat on the table, supported with a miter gauge to ensure alignment, and just tip the blade over, resting the pointed end of the material against the fence only now it can’t slip under the fence.
So cool how construction workers and carpenters figure out things to use to make everything easier
Genius!
I always learn something watching your videos.
I love this tip and plan on building a jig like that. I do have a point about your comment on grain direction, however. You state that the mitered end of the board is end grain, but the slot for the spline in long grain. A quick look at the end after slotting will show that both the mitered end and the slot are at 45 degrees to the grain; no difference. I'm not saying that this makes the joint weak, it has been used for many years to strengthen miter joints, but I did want to clarify that grain direction is 45 degrees on either part of the joint.
Thanks for all the great videos.
My drawing is not entirely accurate. The end of the board, and within the slot is not strictly end grain OR long grain. The long grain that is introduced is on the spline itself. Frankly, I should have just skipped that part to avoid confusion. The real strength comes from the mechanical component, the added glue surface, and the cross-grain nature of the spline.
I was reading through all the comments to see if someone else had noticed this. I'm glad you did as it saved me the trouble of mentioning it. Again, not that it is a big deal. Still a great idea for strengthening joints, although I am curious about the claims that a glued only miter joint can be just as strong, or stronger?
@@jasone3166 Glue alone on a flat surface will never beat mechanical advantage _in addition_ to glue with more surface area to grab. This is why biscuits are a major part of the industry. This spline is a less labor-intensive but generally stronger take on the same job biscuits do. It's less flashy, so those who spent hundreds on specialized tools may be hard to convince.
Different woods, glues and production techniques (skill) factor into strength of joints, so mileage will vary, but given these things being equal, the spline will always make the joint stronger than two flat surfaces alone.
@@VoltisArt for a drawer box, there's just not enough wood there anyway to get a biscuit into it for a miter joint...
Not just smarter , but safer. Excellent upload, James.
Definitely want to try this on a box. And, I love that Bow feather board.
I got one of those Bow featherboards. It's great. The best featherboard I've ever used.
Looks like you could use a 2x4, but great idea. The splines aren't invisible from the ends. Stops might help.
This video is excellent. I like the idea of using both pieces back to back. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I really like simple jigs like this. Thanks for sharing! Also, Scott Walsh has a vid "This Simple Joint is Stronger than a Dovetail" & proved miter joints can be incredibly strong when glued correctly, even without splines.
I love that you support small businesses like that too.
Something like this is just common sense...that I never would have thought of on my own. Thanks for sharing.
Your videos are on my list to watch first because they are always good. I think this one is one of the best you have had in a while. Please don't misunderstand all are good but this is better. Thanks.😀
Thank you for sharing your awesome tip. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy 😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
"Your joints will thank you."
Trying spline bevels for my arthritic shoulder and knee joints.
the next level of that would be to put stops ahead and behind, so the cut for the spline comes short of the edges of the piece, hiding the spline entirely inside the joint.
I thought the same but need to play around with an accurate initial plunge.
@@chrisanthony579 true. at that point, you might be better off making a jig for a handheld router.
Why not enter from what will be the base, but stop short of what will be the top? At least the joint will be hidden from the top.
@@richardoverthrow1358also an option.
A biscuit joiner would pretty much do that if I’m understanding what you mean?
Exactly the solution I needed when I needed it, thank you
Very clever tip, thanks.
I add biscuits to miters. Usually they will be the small FF size.
Thank you again I started by watching your videos
Nice. Beautiful and simple.
These kinds of videos are the best. Simple, useful and easily usable.
I've been watching your videos for several years now and I've seen many of them, I will say you are very experienced and intelligent, keep the good content coming
Great tip, thanks for sharing.
Thing about woodworking. The more complicated it is the more impressed fellow woodworkers are. Same thing done with a hand drill and some bamboo skewers.
You think this is complicated? And how are pins, which are visible from the outside, the same as a hidden spline?
If you want your work to show, something along the lines of a decorative dovetail will impress more people than a few dowels. This is for a simple look that's impressively strong, which may often matter more to the end consumer.
A great idea. I use it with a horizontal slotting cutter as small straights tend to snap.
Love this, James! Thanks!
If you want the spline more hidden then you could stop the cut before coming out the other side. In this way, the spline would only be visible from the bottom of the box.
And you can plunge the piece into the bit using the fence as a guide when starting the cut and it will be completely invisible. Won't work with a table saw though.
A very useful tip! Thank you, James.
Thanks for ALL the great information in your video and the feather board information James, both were great. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Simply brilliant!
Awesome tip James! Thank you! 👍👍🔨🔨
Another great idea, Thank you!
After watching Pat Sullivan's end grain glue strength video, I put it to the test. I used some red oak, 1' thick, 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares. As the oak is so porous, I doubled coated the end grain. It gave the joint a micro tenon effect as the glue wicked into the grain. Result was a joint stronger than long grain glue joint. Long grain will break before the glue fails, end grain will not. I let several guys attempt to break the joint with hand strength, no can do. That was a year or so ago, still carry the joint in my tool box for the occasional test subject. Your miter joint spline set up would work equally well with a table saw with some adaptation.
My Wood Shop teacher 60+ years ago taught us about using splines in our miter joints. I’ve been doing this ever sense using the table saw. Your router table setup is great. Will be using that from now on.
What a spectacular idea James! Thank you so very much. 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
Great tip! Thanks for sharing! 👍
Another great video. Love all your help.
That is freaking brilliant. Thank you.
Very good! Thanks for sharing
Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing.
In all tests I've seen so far, simple 45 degree miter jøints with only glue are among the strongest. The glüe surface is not completely endgrain, it's 1/2 endgrain and 1/2 along the grain.
Great tip on running grain perpendicular to the slot.
Thank you, Stumpy. Once again, another great video to help us all become better wood workers
James, so much to learn watching your videos. You have the knack to explain the underlying principles - engineer in me loves it. Keep up the great work.
You always have good advice. Thank you sir.
Awesome tip!
This is brilliant!!! Thank You
Great, practical tip (as we’ve come to expect). Thank you!
Great job. Thank you 😊
What a great idea. Thank you for the excellent tips and tricks for splines.
Youre always giving me some good ideas, thank you.
Another great video!! Thanks
Nice, easy and complete
Great tip James thanks for sharing definitely going to try this. Thanks for sharing
Great, smart, easy jig and tip. Plunging can completely hide the splines as well.
Great tip thanks
Great stuff! Thanks
Tom Byrne
Nice tip, thanks.
Great tip.
Very clever and useful.
Great video. I love this a lot! Thank you thank you!
I find 2x6 to be the ideal size od lumber for most home projects.
Oh... Really fantastic tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks again for a great tip!
Good tip thanks for sharing it
Great job 👍
Great information 👍
Good ideas. Thank you.
Short and SWEET. :-) Thanks.
Great vid!
I’d 2nd the 👍🏻for Bow feather boards..
been working with them and they are super. Got rid of my old ones
Love this channel, always something new to learn. Getting ready to be making some frames and would have never thought of this.
Great tip. I will definitely use this tip the next time I cut miters.
Great tip, Jim. 😊😊
Nice stumpy…love my joints
Brilliant, Thankyou for this presentation . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England
Wow great tip!
Fascinating
Brilliant!
This one gets a save for later! Thanks!
Thanks for an excellent "how to" video. Will use.
Brilliant idea you always amaze us with your tips tricks and more💯
Thank you for the info. I’m going to be making a few boxes soon and that. Will work out well
Ok. That’s a real good tip!
Great idea. I think the only thing I might do differently is to use a couple layers of 3/4" plywood stacked up rather than a piece of framing lumber. Much more stable and accurate in the long term.
Great tip, this sounds like something simple i can easily make and use. Now i just have to remember to do it when i try to make my next box.
Ingenious, must have a go at that.