Shear Bolts - Snowblower Maintenance
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2024
- Everything you need to know!
Today I'll be showing you why you should use the proper shear bolts or shear pins on your snow blower!
Shear bolts and pins are designed to break away if the auger fins get jammed up with ice, which will prevent damage to the gearbox.
If you use normal bolts, they won't shear (break away), which will transfer all the momentum and force to the brass worm gear inside of the auger gear box.
Not only will I show you what this looks like in the video, but I'll also link to a video that shows you how to fix this, if it's already happened to you.
Follow these quick and simple instructions, and you shouldn't have any issues!
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Something I didn't mention, these shear bolts usually cost about $4.00 each (Canadian). So you'd be into this for $16.00 if you replaced these and had 2 spares. $16.00 compared to a $300+ repair bill is not even comparable!
As Steve Voyer said another "spot on" video. Have spent many hours using a drift pin and large hammer to remove bent bolts or machine screws inside the axel when they were NOT proper lubricated shear bolts. Hard to explain to the customer that there may be damage in the gear box but you cannot tell since it has no access point for adding 00 grease and if it does have access you may be able to use a Q tip or other to sample the grease for brass particles to show the customer. Once damage is started it just keeps getting worse !
Wow! Lots and lots of useful information. Just like every other video he does its done in professional manner very easy to understand. EP HAS HELPED ME A TON OF TIMES FIX NUMEROUS THINGS.. . EP IS TRUELY TOP NOTCH REPAIR AND EDUCATION On HOW THINGS WORK AND WHAT IT NEEDS TO BE fixed properly.. Jake does not cut corners to educate the public. Thanks EP. YOU HAVE SAVED MY BACON FEW TIMES.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks! Super informative. I don't think enough people are aware of this issue.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video as always your explanation as to how things work spot on
Thanks for watching!
Nice video! Would like to see you service the newer Toro power max. They claim their isn't any shear pins. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the information
Nice Explanation!
I'm all about correct words for parts and tools. Thanks for the clarification between bolts and pins. It's easy, folks - screws function on their own, bolts require a nut to secure the bolt in place. Pins require another pin or part fitted at 90 degrees to secure or do the securing themselves in the same way (lynch pin, cotter/split pin, clevis pin...). (Don't get me started on "leverage" when the correct word is "torque"!) ;-) Well, since I'm verbiage profuse today, here's the deal, people. Leverage requires two things - a lever and a fulcrum. Leverage does not rotate but instead operates bi-directionally to move a load utilizing the distance from either end the fulcrum is located to determine force multiplier. Torque always acts around a central rotational axis - there is no fulcrum involved and force involved depends primarily on distance load is exerted from the axis.
Excellent tips!
Thanks for watching!
Good day Good video. I don't think people think of this. Thanks
Very similar to a Rototiller, but more difficult!
Thanks for watching!
Someone suggested using a clevis pin in replacement...what do u think
what size of drill bit and tap would you use to put a grease fiting in the augar
VG & THANKS
any idea why harqvarna st230p does not put grease fittings on the augars
Pretty thorough video on shear pins. Thanks for posting the video. One question though: Do you recommend using anti-seize on shear pins? Also, if there are no zerk fittings on the shaft, what is the best way to grease the shaft without taking things apart? Thanks in advance for your insight and experience in the matter.
Antisieze wouldn't hurt, anything to help keep them from rusting in place! Also, you could try some penetrating oil or something like that. You could also drill a hole and add a zerk fitting. I've never done it but it's possible!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank your much EP for your advice. Have a wonderful day!
@@EliminatorPerformance (Just so you know, this comment is similar to what I sent to Donyboy73, here: czcams.com/video/4piKxBhIpUM/video.html, as both of you Canadians are my primary source for snowblower information/education - as well as all other small engines, of course.)
I've learned tons from you over the months since I subscribed, so thanks for that!
I have a 1989 Toro 724 (38072) which I got on FreeCycle. I've been going over the entire machine to repair, correct and service completely before using it for the first time (my first time ever using a snowblower, so I’m also watching operational videos plus reading the manual).
I've found a variety of things wrong with this machine but have managed to fix one after another - dirty plug, one skid shoe worn completely down, scraper blade worn over 1/4 inch more in the center than the outboard ends, tires underinflated (the one on the same side as the worn skid shoe much lower pressure, of course!), traction belt ready to snap, float bowl flat not lined up with float pin. It's obvious the original owner didn't know much about blower use or maintenance, but at least I can rotate the crank, it feels like it's got decent compression and the electric starter works fine (hit it just a couple of quick blips with the plug out to confirm function).
I pulled a shear bolt and it’s actually a grade 5, despite this being the same one (322-12 Screw-Bolt) Toro has on their IPL (weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/toro-parts-lookup/model-38072-724-snowthrower-1995-sn-5900001-5999999-auger-assembly/4274-198147-204633). Given the amount of rust on it I suspect it was the OEM when the machine was new. Someone mentioned that Toro uses these bolts because their gearboxes are designed to not fail and the engine will stop first. Someone else said the auger belt will slip before any damage happens. Both of those sound like incorrect statements to me and certainly potentially damaging to the crankshaft/connecting rod, etc.). In thinking about this and your probable experience with bent/deformed shear bolts that need to be drifted out of the shaft for replacement I'm of the opinion that grade 5 (or hardened of any kind) should not be used, but rather a real shear bolt with grooves cast in so the bolt will actually break off rather than bend/deform. I'm going to replace the bolts I've found on my machine with actual shear bolts - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3KFGC4?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image - (a way better deal than the ones you mentioned).
I have a suggestion for a future video - how to straighten bent auger blades on a snowblower. Mine were bent in multiple places (as much as 2cm off center) and I ended up using a 3-inch C-clamp to straighten as needed. The C-clamp was short enough to fit in between the blades to be able to do the job (as opposed to the Stillson wrench I started out with). I don't know about auger blades on shaft-only augers versus mine which has a drum blade construction, but I suppose they bend as well and then become less efficient at feeding snow into the impeller.
One other question - have you run across machines with no fuel filter, and if so, did you see damage to the machine commensurate with having no filter? I’m aware that snowblowers don’t need air filters given the conditions in which they operate, so I’m wondering whether the same holds true for fuel filters and may explain why this machine has survived 33 years and probably will still run. My machine appears to have never had a fuel filter (either external or mounted inside the bottom of the tank like later models). This seems to be a recipe for disaster so I'll be cutting the fuel line upstream of the shutoff to install one (paper, clear). The good news is I received the machine with the tank totally dry, clean and not smelling of any kind of fuel and the carb bowl was also clean and drained (old style with drain and adjustable main jet). I've cleaned the carb completely (including ultrasonic) so I'm hoping the machine will start right up and run just fine with a little tweaking to the low and high speed jets and idle and high speed adjustment screws. :)
Thanks again for all your hard work producing exceptional quality instructional videos. I also very much appreciate your dad contributing his knowledge and input. At 74 I can use all the help I can get!
Thanks for sharing your expertise! Is there any reason why they make those gears out of brass as you said, it’s a softer metal.
Probably so that it gets destroyed in the event this happens. Something has to be weaker than everything else, it's most likely designed to fail.
Most aftermarket shear pins cost less than OEM. Since they're presumably designed the same, are they worth the risk?
I had one come in and the old guy had grade 8 bolts in it an exploded transmission housing. I welded it up (the sheet metal holding the gears) and use it but I won't sell it as I just use it. I have a conscience.
Grade 8 bolts! Yes, it's too bad. $8 Canadian would've prevented that!
Nice. I broke 4 auger bolts in my toro 824 OE in 4 hours clearing out thick wet icy snow. Toro deceptively claims their super hardened gear box eliminates the need for shear bolts. The actual auger bolt they use, toro 321-10, a $1.13 US priced bolts, is not currently available from Toro making my think I am not the only one breaking these auger bolts. I tried to to contact Toro to find out what bolt I can safely use, but no luck getting anyone to help by phone. I think they are a grade 5 bolt as they have the 3 hatch marks. And a toro rep answered this question on a Home Depot question as due to the hardened auger tranny they are using a grade 5 bolt. But I sure would like to know what is a safe bolt to use in a powermax 824 blower with Toro bolts not even available now?? I see someone trying to see the Toro bolts for $6/each, but I am not going to support or trust anyone trying to charge/scalp them for 5 times the retail price. I ordered some Stens 1/4" by 1 9/16" shear pins that I know will fit, but suspect I will be breaking them even faster than the OEM bolts. Till I get those Stens bolts, it will be Ace hardware grade 5 14" by 1 1/2" bolts as I need to clear out this snow that is happening. Toro is really causing people to destroy these machines by claiming no shear bolts to replace in their marketing hype, as when they do break, nobody has shear bolts ready to go. These bolts are so hard to find and know what to replace with, most people will just install a grade 8 bolt as that is all they can get locally and then they risk doing the damage you have documented in this video. Any help to know what these Toro machines can use safely would be appreciated. I see I am not the only one here asking this question!
@Marcia Ewell Hi... I'm a newbie at replies on CZcams. Hope you see this. I have the same problem. However I have a TORO Super Max 826 LE Snowthrower (close enough to yours perhaps?) In the last 24 hrs I have broke my original shear bolts on the impeller (on the machine since bought 20 yrs ago?) and two dealer purchased spares I had. That's the shear bolts for the rear impeller *not* the auger (front). No ice or object... just very wet snow. I've had wetter snow before... so strange why now? perhaps something else might be going on my machine to cause this. Anyway why I'm replying to you.... (1) I did much research on shear bolts for my Toro. Only two separate comments made on two unrelated forums very firmly said that the Toro uses Grade 5 bolts... As "Eliminator Performance" said numerous times (and I'm sure he's 100% correct) ONLY USE THE SHEAR BOLTS MEANT FOR YOUR MACHINE... SO I WAS STILL NOT CONVINCED to use Grade 5 bolts on my machine... (why?... called dealer... they won't have them in for another 7 days!!!!... I've got snow on my driveway to clear!). HOWEVER POINT # (2)... I just checked the exact replacement spare shear pins that I bought from the dealer for the front (auger). For my Toro it's part #322-11 They very clearly have the 3 hash marks on the head of the bolts (indicating Grade 5) bolts. The auger bolts are 5/16" but the impeller shear bolts are 1/4" so these won't work for the impeller bolts.... So as I'm desperate... I went to the local hardware store and bought a couple of 2" long 1/4" grade 5 bolts to hold me over until the correct ones arrive. I'm still not 100% sure,,, so I will be using it very very carefully until then. Hope this information is of some use to you... for what it's worth. good luck !!!
😊👍
Thanks for watching!
Quick question in case you happen to see this although I realize this video is a couple of years old. I have a one year old Toro Power Max 826 OHAE. I purchased the correct shear bolts but after getting to replace the shear bolt I realized the old one was still jammed in there. Would you have any helpful hints as far as trying to remove one of these shear bolts that seems to be really stuck in there? I tried using a punch and hammer and have yet to get it to move.
Hi... perhaps try spraying lots of penetrating oil.. or WD-40 in there and let it sit... and maybe even more the next day again... the punch and hammer are the tools that I've used. Just watch out and make sure you use a punch that is narrower than the bolt hole. If you use a tapered punch you might not be putting all the pressure on the stuck bolt. Bin there done that... LOL.
@@rickf2061 Thank you so much for the answer. I will give it a shot starting tomorrow. I should be alright for at least a week since we have no big snow storms forecasted any time soon.
I have a 3 year old Husqvarna. The first 2 years, I never had to replace not even 1 shear bolt.. This year, year 3, I have broken 6.. Any reason why?
Hard to say, make sure the auger fins aren't bent and hitting the auger housing
Very informative video,
I Have a question for you
I am working on a 8hp hm80 155 techumseh with internal ignition, i Have replace the coil, point and condenser, and Have spark, New carburator and gas hose and fuel stop valve, but it is stilk hhard to start, starts after 10 pull in start rope and when it start it perfectly
I Have good compression
What can be the reason
Hard to say, could be weak spark? Could be valves that need to be adjusted? Carb not set properly? So many variables... Thanks for watching!
I remove the flywheel and cleaned the point, Maybe there where some Oil on them, and when i assdmbled the motor it start on first pull problem solved,
Once again thanks for excellent videos
can anyone order parts from stens?
No you need a business account, but most of their parts can be found at retail price on amazon!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks! and thanks for the videos ... as a home owner who recently discovered the need for a snowblower, I find your videos very useful, I would have brought you mine but a 6 hours trip is too much :)
Grade 3 bolts in a pinch, but not permanently. Your customer, or whoever painted the bucket and augers apparently is not big on good results.
Frozen Flyers don't help either
That's the truth, I have a video on that as well! Thanks for watching!
Yes i keep breaking my bolts 🤬😡😠
Better than breaking an Auger!
... or, get a Toro.