Rastar Ferrari 458 Speciale A Upgrades | 3S Brushed Test | 2S Brushless Results | Conversion
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- čas přidán 12. 04. 2022
- The Rastar Toy company has great high quality RC cars worth converting. Here is the Ferrari 458 Speciale A Modded for hobby grade and getting the lights to function on my own toggle switch out of a power switch and a Servo.
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#diy #backtothetrackgarage #rccars #rastar #rcmodels #vintagerc - Zábava
The idea for the lights gave me some good ideas for my mods
Great mod! Bravo!
I used a 2s 7.2 700mah mated to a 370 DC 50,000 rpm. I removed the hardtop motors for weight redux. I had a 3s 800mah but the 7.2 is cool.
For those wondering, the hubcaps center hub pops off with a exacto or thin screwdriver. Be careful. Mini 4-way screw is underneath to remove the rear wheels.
I have the black 918 I did with the same brushless conversion as you. 2s 1100 mah gets the job done.They both are fast and look good displayed.
That sounds like a great setup and I think I'll showcase that next. I really like the workmanship of these cars, but when it comes to going faster the flaws are revealed. I could barely control it one solid lap.
So up next, even though I wanted to make the hardtop operational, but.... per your recommendation I'll remove the hardtop motors and check the weight and balance difference.
2nd, I'm ordering a 370 motor and pinions to see what happens. I agree the size I have now (near stock) just does not enough torque overall. Even brushless, It's like a 220hp MR2 with 130lbs of torque, and slips when turning one direction over the other.
I've been working on a simple track simulation system so I don't have to leave the house. Showcasing specifically this very issue I'm having with this car. I realized this issue will expand to most all my cars since these are "toys" with little or no suspension at all and weight imbalances. It's diffuclt to go faster if you can't control it.
You could have get a rc servo switch to wired your leds, then plug in your 3rd channel port on your receiver 👌. Or do my method of wiring leds to motor leads so headlights go on forward and red on reverse 🤙
True. I plan to get an auto switch meant for that channel. The servo method is just an alternative if you don't happen to have the resources to get one.
@@backtothetrackgarage8790 oh 👌, I understand 👍
Great Vid! I think this is the day I (USMC VET) met you at the track. Was wondering when you will be out there again. I have a vintage Nikko Turbo Thunder I'm rebuilding and would really like your advice on it. I have the electronics sorted, but having trouble sorting the steering geometry.
Hi! Thanks! Great to hear from you! I looked up the name of that Nikko RC car and came up with a few variations. But I think I've stumbled on one like it. Give me all the exact names on it one more time to be sure.
One obvious way is one arm moving both wheels, but u can use two paperclips and the round servo arm to level the difference.
I'll have to see what your working with..
@@backtothetrackgarage8790 Sorry about that. In my rush, I forgot to proof read. The name is Nikko Turbo Tornado. :) I can bring it by the track if you would like to take a look. It was one of my first R/C back in the day. Toy Grade, but I didn't care at the time. Found one at goodwill the other day and decided to try and upgrade it. Everything is great, except the stupid steering lol.
No problem. Perfect! I too also have this car in red. So I can get to work on it this afternoon and I'll have the solution for you today.
@@backtothetrackgarage8790 WOW! That is awesome. I look forward to what you come up with. :)
Alright I took a look at it and I'll have a video on it later on after editing. But here is what I did...
The servo I'm using is the standard size a 10th scale would use. Not the Micro one. So I gutted out all the original linkage, so no more T-swivel. However I matched up the holes on that T-swivel with two arms on the 6 sided arm-horn provided in the new package. I cut off 4 in a row and left the last two for each wheel. Then I made paperclip (Jumbo Size) arms matching the original metal arms but turned them at 90 degrees toward the back. Those each got an arm on the horn and are secured equally center on the servo. I took the black "glass" off to cut out the "driver" hidden below so the servo has room and remains hidden in the "glass". I had to dremel back into the battery compartment to make it fit just past the wall for the single AA. I left the white knob below for the battery compartment to secure close still, but a little double-sided tape just in front of it inside for the servo. It works. In fact I'll post a 60 second short vid of it here shortly...
How did you manage the get the back tyres out ?
Check my comment above!
I can't find the way to get the back wheels off
There is a tiny Tough little hub cap on there. The center of the rim. Pry with force and "care".
This guy's shows it at 7:24.
czcams.com/video/j3y9tvE3MQY/video.html
Do you use gyro?
No. I haven't made any cars, other than my NSX, into a Drift car to need one yet. A good idea though...