1963 Ford Thunderbird for sale, Grand Rapids Michigan auto appraisal 800-301-3886
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Michigan certified auto appraiser Jason Phillips looks over a 1963 Ford T-bird coupe for a buyer in Grand Rapids Mi. at a classic car dealer.
Do YOU need expert car inspection or auto appraisal service like this? Details below, www.autoapprais... 800-301-3886
Auto Appraise Inc. has 310 nationwide inspectors that go out and photo, magnet test, underbody inspect, test drive and report objectively on classic cars all over the country. We'll give you over 100 still photos, sometimes 200+ including underbody shots, a well written report that documents all important aspects about the car, all reviewed by the companie's owner Jason Phillips that shot this video. A Michigan based corp., Jason travels the country inspecting and documenting and authenticating classic cars. Only he primarily records these videos that summarize the results of his 3 or 4 hour long inspections. Certified as a mechanic in 1981, he worked over 9 years as a classic car adjuster for Hagerty Collector Car Insurance and J.C. Taylor Insurance. He's restored many cars and been qualified as an automotive expert multiple times, including jury trials. He's personally available on short notice to bid any job or collection, when sending one of his regional inspectors just won't do.
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I bought a 63 back in 1977 and that stress crack look to those plastic vent deflectors were that same way and never got any worse. That click sound from the engine was exactly what the 390 had because of the non-adjustable Rocker shaft system , but the good news is that if you remove the Cover to find the click the Rocker floats on the shaft with a spring to keep it in place. The easy way out is to loosen the shaft unit enough to get the Ball&Socket push rod apart to slide aside and pullout the Push rod . But you will need a feeler gauge to to find the gap in 0.001 thou of an inch first( after the engine is warmed up) from the Valve stem side that makes that Tap sound. FORD sold over-sized Push rods back then but the Gap is needed because if the Rod is too long the Valve Seat risks not being fully sealed and during the power Stroke the explosion can leak by the Intake Valve and put a real crimp in your day, or leak past the Exhaust valve and reduce the power from that cylinder.
The really bad news though is that a 390 would need some serious abuse over 60'000 miles to sound like that or just be worn down above 100'000 normal miles. So the 5 digit Odometer might be 116'000 miles with a nice Engine rebuild except that if it had the Cylinders Bored and new rings plus a valve-job and the Rocker shaft system redone, it may have the old Lifters back in it and one was Pumped-up and didn't get corrected.
It's caused by dirt in the Oil that clogs a very small gap inside the Lifter wall that prevents a piece from moving to seal off the Oil and make it solid while under pressure.
Kinda like a really snug set of three "D" size batteries in a long handle Flashlight caused by dirt and rust on the wall , and whenever you push the final New battery in and screw back on the light bulb section it looks like the bulb is shot because the Light does work. The problem is that the Flashlight spring( also the ground) at the end is too weak to push the snug D batteries toward the Bulb contact to complete the circuit.
The Lifter contact point on the Push Rod would have the gap that ends up at the Valve stem when it's done , but it's also an issue for the Cam Shaft lobe that slaps the bottom of the lifter when it should slide on it to the peak and come back by the Valve spring pressure prior to the contact with the Valve Seat when it's fully closed .
I only mention this because that sound could be $150.00 or $1000.00 plus because I had that exact problem , and the 390 had a real issue with the oil circulation on the Heads right at the rear while under acceleration and on hills. The drain hole should have had the back area grind down around the edge to remove that minor ridge that held back a small amount of oil where dirt would collect or Oil built up on a hill to leak out the Rocker Cover gasket over time and drip down the heads and burn on a exhaust system .
My guess is the worn Push Rod that's easy to check by the Valve stem gap . During idle the engine doesn't spit out much oil with the Rocker Cover off for about 20 seconds to hear the Tap and narrow it down once you know which side had the bad rod . Then with the engine off and battery disconnected , it can be rotated from the crack shaft balance Nut until the gap appears with the valve closed to measure it and get the right length replacement Rod.
One other sign of age is the brake and gas pedals wear on the rubber ribs that get worn near the right side edges for the Brake and left side for the gas.
The other sign is a bit obscure but it's on the lower part of the steering column where a plate is mounted on it as part of the Ignition system to to Start only while in Park . There should be just one bolt to remove and it comes off , it has a set of contact points that complete a circuit when the contacts on the steering shaft wiring plate rotates into position at the PARK setting so you can engage the starter motor with the steering column in any swing-away position , or if it stalls and is "N" all the electrics still work for the windows and radio.
The surfaces of fixed contacts can be worn down over time as the plate moves from P to D and R because of the fingers that flex when they ride on the other contact bumps which my car had a Starting problem to move the Gear selector a bit the odd time from a dead-Spot.
A low mileage car would have that contact area looking almost new with the hemisphere points barely worn down , and if it was the 116'000 there is now way to hide the age for 1000's of gear shifts over 50 years for the Contact System unless someone replaced both parts years ago because it has to look normal for 16'000 miles even if it was Highway trips because you still need gas, food, and seep breaks to use Park and Drive .
As for that Speaker cover , mine was a bit warped but it had 4 flex-tabs to push it into place or pop out with a blade between the gap , I don't remember any screws holding it down.
If you need to confirm the Build Date and some of the parts as original, there is one screw holding the Clock in place which is right at the bottom to remove quickly . Just reach under and behind the clock for the Power plug ( L shaped ) and pull off along with the Light Bulb socket , then undo the mounting screw and it should swing out from the bottom while the top Tongue piece holds it in place and will bend to fit by the rim.
My 63 Bird was built in Sept 62 , the back of the clock had an inspection mark that is passed , and AUG-62 on it by a Date Stamp system with black ink. If the clock doesn't work from its age, the original clock will be dated close to the car Date because 61-63 didn't change for the dash pods.
I was working at a hotel in London, Ontario when a couple of Playboy Playmates and their chaperone drove in in one of these. I have to admit that before I parked it I drove it around the block about 8 times just enjoying the car and the perfume.
Note to appraiser. Drive indicator on the steering column is where the green dot is. You started the car out in second gear.
Not too bright is he?
My appraisal: $6000 TOPS, absolute TOPS even in 2020 and this was done back in 2014! I actually restored one like this, same color combo but mine had A/C and power windows back around 1986 or so. Oh and I RESTORED it, suspension and all. Took the car completely apart. It was a rust free AZ car to begin with. That rust pictured really needs to be properly repaired.
Have a friend that has one but has been sitting for many years. It’s going to be a real money pit even if it looks sound.
We're in the process of getting my grandpa's '62 bird up going again and I'm so excited! I only wish my grandpa could see his girl. It's intimidating watching these videos because I know nothing about cars. My girl is totally original and I don't want to make any mistakes in her restoration. Any advice on the restoration process and where to find info so it's done right. For the first time in 25 years she started and moved under her own power..I wish I could attach a picture.😊
Nickpicking all the minor imperfections, which there are few, and an easy fix. Overall the car is a safe #3 and probably more like a #2. Overall, this is a very nice looks like unrestored original, sans the new paint. Show quality? Not quite, but fixing the aforementioned imperfections it would qualify. Overall, I really like these "Jet Birds". The "Square Bird" in my book a close second.
Sold a 62 recently for 9 thousand, and it was nicer.I also had to wait 6 months to get my price.I didn't break even.I realized that these cars aren't really very rare,or super valuable. Good cruisers for sure.
Unless equipped with the M-Code 3-2bbl carbs/340 hp, the 1963 T-Bird had single exhaust. The only year between 1955 and 1966+ that didn't have dual exhaust.
Wow, the front suspension sounds on the verge of falling apart even at low speeds. Those were known for bad front suspensions. Has rust. Stripper without a/c or power windows which one would expect on a car of that level. Some people won’t care and for them it could make a decent cruiser once the worn front parts are replaced!
beautiful car, i'm currently restoring a 1962 :D
Currently restoring a 61 and a 62.
I can see why they don't want him driving the cars after hearing that! Sounds like he drove over the curb
I am always a bit dubious about auto appraisers. You end up paying someone who knows 10% of what you know about your car a couple hundred dollars to write up a value and take a few pictures. They just look at Hemmings and see what comparable cars are going for. As an example, what makes this guy think the car has been repainted at 16,000 miles? Conversely, why would a seat be all torn up at 16K ?
Rob- Thanks for the honest post. One purpose my videos serve is to educate people on what to look for. Help those that only have 10% (as you suggested) of my knowledge, and get them up to 20%. Hemmings is a great magazine, and a great source for information. This car in the Hemmings throughout the 2014 issues ranges in asking price from $6500- $24,000. While that provides an outline, it doesn't really help an active buyer, seeking a solid car that runs well. That's what any good appraiser should define. Value is directly related to quality. Lipstick on a pig looks nice, but it's still bacon underneath! It would be nice to think advertisers would include in their description " car full of bondo covering previous rust holes....but priced right"..... Lastly, inspecting paint is challenging, but I give viewers hints of what I look for to help them when they look on their own. In the end, it's just experience that counts. Goodluck and Blessings- Jason Phillips
Suspension is one of the most common things overlooked by amateur car restorers. I would be compelled to rebuild the entire suspension. On the classic car rating scale: 0 being the theoretical perfect sate. 1 being a top-notch, first class restoration. And 5 being a junkyard dog. This is a 3 or 3-.
Pretty pretty pretty car.
I`ve never seen a 50 year old car nit picked this much.
That's what an appraiser does - you have to find the faults to accurately assess the car's value
16 thousand? how sat in it to wear that seat to dust.
I'm guessing 2hundred and 16 thousand.
Crazy Speedo
how rare is this car?
Not very
I waited through the whole video to find out the appraisal price. Darn it it isn't here. I guess I'll do my own. 16,000 miles? no 116,000 miles at least. That little rust is problematic especially because it is obvious that the owner didn't spent the $20 for mud flaps. Lot's of kicking up salt in crevices. Chrome wasn't taken off for painting so there is going to be rust there also. Not a great paint job, looks hurried and careless. Whoever had this car painted did not love this car, they just did as quick and cheap as they could. and interior is messed up and crackled steering wheel and trim pieces and bad gauge. I think it looks like the air conditioner has been converted so that is good. Suspension is bad and car is creeky so the underside needs a much more thorough going over. somebody beat this car a little. I'm not a professional but drove a lot of beaters and was heartbroken over every sad demise of my cars, mostly fords. I would have to give this car a worth of no more than $2500.00 and that is being generous. Anybody else?
+jludtxs Hey I'll pipe in! Excellent observations my friend. However, it's tough to buy any running and driving classic car for $2500, albeit plain Jane color combos like this one don't draw as much a high impact colors do. You're right, this car was a little "flim flammed" on the paint, a "flippers" level repaint, not a deep level restorative effort by any means. As for value, I usually post these vids the same evening I film them, so I don't have values researched at that point. The potential buyer passed on the car anyway, as I recall, so I don't think we actually had to appraise it's value....just it's condition.
+AutoAppraise $2500.00 does seem low at first but that would be all it would be worth to me. I grew up in Illinois and I know how bad rust creeps so to save the car, you are looking at a complete strip, repair and repaint so that is going to be about $6000.00 The interior is going to cost another $2000.00 Whatever is causing all the creaking is going to be at least $1000.00 and maybe more. At 116,000 miles the engine and transmission are going to need to be rebuilt by 130,000 miles so that's another $2500.00. It's been exposed to salt so brakes are going to need replacing- rotors and all so that is at least another $500.00. It's all adding up pretty quick and all Kelly is quoting is $20,000 for pristine show quality low miles. I wish I didn't see what was coming with this car and I hope someone saves it before it is too late. Unfortunately, I have a lifetime of broken hearts over cars that I thought just needed a little tlc. Thanks for doing the videos, they are a real help in seeing examples of what to look for. I am years away from buying but videos like yours will go a long way to help me keep my eyes open and not let myself fall in love with a car that will break my heart again. CZcams is awesome and people like you who share your knowledge and experience are priceless.
Thanks again for your comments and observations.
@M H I think after 1963, they are just ordinary cars. not worth much. If it has low miles- great. Just figure massive repairs after 130,000 miles is the norm
I don't care why you watch football lol good review as always
No A/C! The car is worthless.