Bi Wiring, Bi Amping What is it?
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- čas přidán 7. 10. 2018
- Hi Everyone!
Today I talk to you all about Bi-Wiring and Bi-Amping, what it is, why we do it, and different configurations and possible setups.
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One of the best videos on bi amping, quad amping, bi wiring., Passive vertical bi amping. Awesome
Awesome video, the best one so far about bi wiring. You should do more videos mate, very informative. Thanks again.
I can't describe how much this has helped me understand this.
Then you really need to go elsewhere where it's explained properly.
Thank you so much for showing how to bi wiring, I always wanted to do it but I was afraid I could damage my speakers or my audio receiver, I also didn't know how was the right way to do it. Thanks!!!!
JAMES! So happy to see you in videos - lost track of you after the Car Audio store closed!!!! I literally yelled loud enough my kids came and checked on me when you popped on screen!
Great video. Very clear and concise
Thank you very much for your video, time and patience to share your wisdom. My English is not that good, but the way you speak I was able to understand everything you said. Thank you from southern Mexico
English is my 1st language, and I still couldn't understand! I'm gonna bi-amp today and see if there is an impressive difference. it's been forever since I've seen this video did he ever show how?!?
Thankyou for not only clearing this up for me but also showing how to do it😊😊😊
Excellent video. Very informative.
Bro I saw you in a red Holden the last time, man of many talents you are 👍
thanks a lot - SUPER thorough explanation :)
Nice and informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Very good video, I now understand more clearly as to how speakers and Amplifiers work. Thanks.
i had normal connection 1 wire for right 1 for left. took out jumpers and replaced with quality speaker wire. connected + to high freq - to low frequency. what a difference my 53 year old ears could tell. this small change didnt cost me a penny ! many thanks you just increased my listening pleasure
Thanks for the great video. Very useful information.
Excellent video. Thanks.
great video amigo, thank you
More current when bi-wired? That's a load of nonsense as is the statement that the amp 'won't have to work as hard'.
Excellent video, loaded with info. The only thing I didn't see was using selective wire type for high frequency and low frequency. Louis
With good enough speakers you can actually hear the difference different qualities of speaker wire make so some people invest in higher grade speaker wire for their high frequency connections for increased clarity.
I use jumper cables for my Bose 901 speakers with a 100 watt radio shack PA amplifier. Sounds amazing!
OK, I must first say thank you very much for this video! You answered questions that I've had for years and made me realize that I did a dumb thing! Not only that, but after watching your video and being re-educated, I applied what I learned and it's like I just got another brand new pair of speakers for free! LOL
As an audiophile since about 1978, (and I still am). I've never had any speakers that had bi-amp connections until about 1.5 years ago. That's about when I bought my very first pair of Klipsch speakers, (it took that long because I couldn't afford them for most of my life).
I need to mention a few things about the way I have some of my system setup before I go on. I have an analog component system and my 'centerpiece' is my Mac MC 2105 power amp. I run all my speakers through an OSD SSVC6D speaker controller, which not only switches each pair of speakers on or off, but also boosts/cuts the volume in 10% increments, passively.
I use it to handle the speakers I have in two different rooms. One small room has a pair of small speakers and a 50W powered sub-woofer. However, in the room where I spend most of my time, I have a pair of Klipsch and a pair of Onkyos and they're backed up with a 100W Klipsch powered sub-woofer.
So the main listening room has 4 speakers and stereo sound. When I bought the pair of Klipsch speakers, I read the manual but I guess I totally misunderstood the reason for the 4 speaker connections in back of each one. They came with the gold-plated metal strip connecting the 2 red speaker jacks and the 2 black speaker jacks just as you demonstrated in the vid.
I never connected the speakers until after I read the manual. In short, I thought the manual was saying that I should leave the strips ONLY if I was going to connect additional speakers in a series configuration. Hence, I removed the strips and plugged my cables to the lower red and black jacks!
I never even thought to try them any other way. The Klipsch sounded good but I always thought that they were just better at handling the lower octaves/frequencies. The pair of Onkyos I had (and for which only had two speaker jacks), seemed better at handling the 'brighter octaves.
Because both pairs are in the same room, they worked out well and still do. However, after I watched your video of course, I realized that I was NOT supposed to remove those strips. Instead of putting the gold plated strips back in, I took your advice and jumped the 2 red jacks and 2 black jacks with 12 gauge speaker wire.
Anyway, there was a huge difference in the sound because now the entire speaker system within each Klipsch enclosure was in effect! The high frequencies and low frequencies were all working together and sounds great! I still have the Onkyos running to better fill the room but I want to thank you for "fixing" my speaker system!
Rich
My friend had an old speaker that had a crossover problem, he also didn't realise when the tweeters were not working. Maybe it's a getting older thing?
I've watched innumerable videos about cables, interconnects, etc... This the first time I've ever heard a peep about the "bridges" on my speakers' binding posts! Thanks for adding that little comment. I've since "searched" and have found a little more info. Such an area of neglect with all these other discussions taking precedence. Thanks!
That's because it is pure snake oil.
The real reason at 9.47 . ...so you can connect expensive speakercables...
Tq for sharing,very useful
superb stuff james keep it coming
Thanks Raju
Really good video.
OUTSTANDING JOB LAD.- Johnny, NY USA
Gday mate. Good instruction
Happy New Year Dear Chap. You’ve the most thorough demonstration I’ve seen in my search for HIFI Knowledge, as someone just being introduced to the technical side of sound equipment. Keep up the good work. God keep you.
Awesome video 👍👍
Great video, I’ve been Bi Amping my Castle Harlech for years with Audiolab power amps but would love to try x4 mono blocks to hear the difference!👍🏼🍻
Very useful thank you.
Awesome clip 👍👍👍 I've got a question just wondering if I had a sony 7.4 AMP plus two subwoofer volume control amps sony and a pioneer 5.1 AMP would I be able to do the same thing?
Thanks for posting… now I understand..🙂🇬🇧👍
Very well explained. Thank you!
Thank you so much for your time and consideration in your post. You explain it all so clearly I will try your tips using two amplifiers. I look forward to seeing another presentation. Later
Nice video. I would not normally bi wire but I will try it to bypass the jumpers.
Thats the idea. Try it, see if it works, if it does then great, if it doesn't, oh well it was a fun experiment.
This guy gets it.
BUENA EXPLICACION GRACIAS
Awesome!
Cleaning off the crud that had collected on the metal jumpers would have improved the connection. A contact cleaner used regularly would work wonders if you use spade rather than banana plugs.
works the same with all connections , reason putting in a different cable makes a difference , you just cleaned the contacts :-)
Nice video... Cheers
GOOD info thanks
You can also divide 16 by 4 you can use rip-cord or you can use welding wire, just keep in mind that the copper on the amplifier PCB or the wiring inside a transistor are less than 1/100th of a mm.
Inside the transistor is not really wire. The transistors are generally doped silicon. The resistance and capicitance of your wires will make a difference to the impedance seen by the amplifier, which in turn affects your sound. By how much, that is subjective. You wouldn't use very high resistance cable though, just like they don't use high resistance cable to send mains power to your home. The losses over the cable would just make it very inefficient.
Or maybe some left overs from power utility company.
Hi, this was really helpful!! Thank you! Gonna bi-wire my B&W’s!
Hi, the video was very informative so thank you. I have a question; I have biwire cable two are solid and two are stranded which type should I use for the H and M Frequency? Thanks
Hi Andy, I myself would probably use the stranded on the HF for extra detail, but I think the best thing for you to do would be just to try both ways with a high quality version of a song you know well and just see which way you prefer for your listening enjoyment.
Hey there, new to your channel and I really like the advice. Got a question, I have a Yamaha RXA3080 and wanted to know if it makes sense to run a Pioneer M-72 amp through the Yamaha pre-outs to bi-amp front LSI-9 Polk speakers or just use one of the Yamaha's channels not being used on my 5.1.2 set up? Thanks Ron
I don't believe he understands what he's talking about, IMO. The engineering of it. The only reason to bi-wire is because all wire systems don't sound the same and you can get into the nitty gritty of voicing your system. You're using wiring as a tone control, and that's fine. You do reduce resistance, but that's not going to really affect the sound per say and only nominally the ability of your amp to deliver power. The statement about delivering tremendously more current is nonsense. Once the gauge doesn't get in the way, in most cases it's 6-12 awg, it's the relationship of the amp and speaker. Period. If you run 2 runs of the same wire from the same amp, you'll not experience a significant difference. Use, say Kimber on the bottom and Audioquest on the top, that's voicing. Bi-amping will give you more headroom, but it's not a linear relationship of watts per DB and an expensive proposition. There's nothing wrong with any of it to try, but understand the engineering.
One other issue is I believe if you use different amps the wattage of the two can be different (higher wattage for the woofer and lower wattage for the tweeter which doesn’t need the higher wattage) but the gain of the amps need to match.
Each speaker has to have its own crossover for roll-off. Passive or Active if your amp doesn't have separate tone controls for A/B so the speaker doesn't put out frequencies beyond its optimal output plus you need a switch so your crossovers work in concert with each other if you should only use one amp with two channels or two mono blocks.
thats rite mate how can the speakers separate the frequency's with out a cross over ,,,ya need thr 80000 speakers,,lol
i never heard that so does that mean the full range is being sent to the drivers but they are ignoring the frequencies outside what they can play? i always thought that the signal being split digitally first would be optimal like the meridian designs but i have heard stuff that i thought sounded better than meridian too. TBH i think there is no end to this and i have to learn to love my stereo it cost me 20k! its enough. i am enough hahaha
Awesome tutorial about bi-wiring and bi-amp configurations. Never seen a video this much content in them..
Too much content! Come on now!
Excellent review...I can't belive some CZcams audiphile reviewers say it doesn't matter...🙄...
Now say you're running 2.1 speakers on your boom box you build and you have 100 watts per channel two channels driven so 200 watts total, but they used two chips on the board designed BTL normally 50 watt per channel using only one chip, they tie the each of the two chips together so the one chip that's normally stereo is now mono at twice the power and two chips together so you can't bridge them down to mono, but you need 400 watts for a center sub-woofer, can you run two 200 watt Class D or AB mono block amps together, will it work or do I need isolation?
First of all thanks for the video!! Is excelente!
So, if I use a Monitor Audio Bronze 2 series in a Yamaha n-r303 is much better to biwiring with the a+b option ?
Again... THANXXXX!
You could try it but it might not be worth it at that level.
The difference bi-wiring makes is real but it is very small and more cheaper systems usually not worth the extra money needing to be spent on speaker cable.
I would like to see what the difference in listening would be. Post another video with a you giving a quick listen to each configuration and sharing the results.
How about taking some measurements with smaart or a similar analysis program and calibrated mics
ZERO !!!
It certainly looks good, I have good hearing I have spent hundreds in by wiring and by AMP Ing.By amping is certainly better than by wiring and even then I couldn’t hear any difference.
Exactly. This whole business is psychoacoustics going the wrong way.
Audiophiles : Using the jumper bars on speakers is bad!
Also audiophiles : uses tiny relay switch to route audio for speakers A or B. Out of sight, out of mind
How would you hook up a sub to a bi wire set up I've generally seen people hook them up straight from the speaker outputs would it just be from the amp outputs or what about super tweeters and in theory couldn't you get a tri wiring speaker and do a 6 amp set up I'm super interested haha so sorry for all the questions
Question… I have bi Wired speakers but I only use them single wired. Does is matter use the upper or lower entry on the speaker unit?
thanks mate!
Brilliant ,well done
if using a 2 channel intigrated amp with A & B A+B...is it better to run biwire from A only with biwires or 2 seperate speaker wires 1 from A and 1 From B ?
Recently I m using audio quest 14 gage pure Cooper on a biwired mode pure clean sound and Dynamics don't need to buy expensive cables
Very helpful, learned alot
Bi amping is good too on avr. When we use stereo mode more power goes to the front towers and use 4 power ends and do bi amp. Just need put on bi-amp on software. It works good on budget speaker towers too. But best is on 3 way crossovers
Bi wiring, using different cables for HF and LF but in the same length, should cause any problems? thought of silvers on top and copper on bottom.
Not a problem at all, actually quite a common practice to put the thinner better cables on highs and cheaper but meatier cables on lows.
Thanks !!
great video......cheers man
Is there any benefit at all to running two sets of cables to the high and low frequencies of the speaker in bi wiring formation if my integrated amp has speaker A and speaker B output (so speaker A feeds high and speaker B feeds low). I have had completely contradictory advice on this from two separate dealers.
For clarity - It is not an AV amp with specific bi amp terminals but a regular (good quality and high power) integrated amp with two sets of speaker outputs.
Many thanks in advance.
Hello and thank you for the video. It really helped me decide if I want to bi-wire my Klispch speakers or not.
May I ask your advice? My set up is
Yamaha Aventage A-3080 AVR
Klispch
RP-280 Front (Bi-Wireable)
RP-450C Center
RP-250 Surround (Bi-Wireable)
R-820F Surround back (may upgrade to RP-280’S)
RP-140SA Atmos x4
R-115SW x1
I want the most out of my setup so would you suggest Bi-Wiring the speakers? And if so, what gauge wire do you suggest?
Lastly, the Aventage is a decent AVR, but would I benefit from Bi-Amping it? And again, if so, what amp do you feel would complement the AVR and speakers?
I don’t feel that you would benefit much from biwiring.
Hello mate. In your bi-wiring set up, are you using 8TC cables with banana jacks?
if you are usnig one pair of cables, isn't better to plug them into the top section, as the tweeters are more sensitive? you had them plugged in the lf section...
Good info.
Penultimate = second last.
Nice piece of kit. What is that amp?
So awesome and thank you so much now i completely understand Bi-Wiring... but what on earth is the brand and model of that beautiful amp (the big one :-) ) again totally good and informative video so even i understand it ;-)
Accuphase.
best job ever.. thanks
there you are !
....appreciate your explanation here ...excellent video!,..just one question,...when you send 2 separate connections (bi-wiring) to a speaker (one set to High and second set to low frequency ) from a stereo amp that has 8 binding post ( A and B)..with 85wpc ...would your speakers get 170w each?...Left speaker 170w and right 170w??...OR 85w for the high frequency driver and 85w for the low frequency drivers...truly appreciate your help
It's basically a voltage divider circuit and the watts per speaker depends on the impedance of each LF and HF speaker. It both LF and HF have the same impedance then each would divide the current equally and thus each would get the same amount of watts.
@@kusgilb thank you,...appreciated!
Hi! I have a question, I have 7.1 Monitor Audio Silver set of speakers and I only have McIntosh MC312 stereo amplifier with 300watts each channel, I want to connect all my speakers to this amplifier, do you think my amplifier can drive my speakers to their full strength without losing any performance and speakers not in risk? I’m planning to bi-wire them but I’m afraid to do it. Can you give me good advice please? Thank you! I really like your video.
This is just a 2ch amp and it has different binding posts for different impedances of speakers.
So whatever the impedance of the speakers you are hooking up is, that's the terminal you need to use.
How do you match the gain when you using two different amplifiers? I tried it with two different size amps from same manufacturer and the bass was overpowering, I eventually resorted to an active cross-over which I use just to match gain.
as long as the amplifier sensitivity is the same you get the same from both amplifiers.
i love how this is incidentally an argument for what meridian do. the final step is to digitally separate the low and high frequencies send only that signal to the appropriate driver. then amplify that frequency with an amplifier that has the specific characteristics to most effectively move the driver. most if not all of the logic here but without the audiophile lego we all enjoy so much. 🤣🤣 the problem with this approach is that we dont get to tinker with our systems which is what we secretly want even if we dont admit it. there's nothing quite like a critical listening session over a few glasses of a good wine when you've just changed the spikes on the speakers your listening to. OMG Anette Askik sound like shes here with us!!
I did the bi-amping, and the sound - even after recalibrating the speakers - was muddy: powerful, but imprecize bass, very harsh highs, mid was not creating any room. One cable is a shorter 2,5mm2 cross surface I used for the highs, the other one is a longer 4mm2 cross surface that I used for the lows.
Is it the amp that is crappy, or the cables really have to have the same properties to do bi-amping?
Of course, I removed the interconnecting wires between the speaker poles to keep the right impedance.
Out of curiousity, I swapped the pairs in between high and low posts, and it didn't really do much difference, I expected hissing or lost sound due to filters of the speaker.
Any tip? I have a Pioneer SC-LX88, I used the Top middle for highs, Front for lows as per the manual.
You see how this bi-amp snake oil is really not helping achieve better sound?
You don't need an extra amplifier if one is big enough. There are perfectly good passive crossovers in the speakers and all this complicated engineering problems have been solved for you, once you bought an amp and 2 speakers. All this video is adding nothing.
It appears to me in this comment section there is a lot of people talking a lot of technical talk but what they are saying shows how little they know about amps, speakers, wires, bridges and bi wiring and what it does to your speakers and amp and how your amp sees your speakers ohms and power delivery and load.
Reasoning for the jumpers was to drop ohms so amp would produce a higher wattage output.
the jumpers make the speakers full range,,or passive without jumpers you can separate the highs and lows,,it has nothing to do with making more power
Which jumpers do you propose for wharfedale diamond 225?Some say that with biwiring you have a larger amount of mid/ treble to the speakers?Is it true?What is your opinion. In case you don't like very "open or bright" sound, this could be a problem.For those who like bright sounding speakers wf 225 has a little "dark sound" but for me is a non faitguing sound.Very nice educational video!
Bi-wiring wouldn't do anything to that imo.
Bi amping of course you will need to match the levels .
If you really wanted to do anything just make some little wire jumpers if you really dislike the metal bars.
Otherwise I feel this extra stuff is for when you have too much money xD it's like making half an active speaker without making an active speaker, but costing a lot more
What happens if I remove the bridge plates but only connect speaker wires to 1 pair of binding post?
just that section of speaker will work....either low/mid or treble...
You missed to talk on how to connect the pre-amp out to the 2 power amplifiers. Do you split the pre-amp out wire to 2 to be connected to the 2 post-amp?
If You are going to bi-amp, your preamplifer must have multiple main or master outputs so that you can send full range stereo to both amps. Dont use y splitters.
If you have speakers that are biwireable but you only have one set of speaker wires and have the bridge plate in place. My question is if it is better to connect the one set of speaker wires to the low-frequency or high-frequency posts? I have always connected to the low-frequency post given that bass response requires more power than treble, so, my thinking is any reduction in signal strength going over the bridge plate should have less of an effect on the treble than on the bass response. Also, I noticed in the video you showed two speakers that were biwireable but only had to connections, not four. In both cases, you had the speaker cables connected into the low-frequency post. I understand that the Monitor Audio Platinum speakers had the cable connector vs the bridge plate, but the others did not and you were still connected to the Low-Frequency post. Given your comment on lost fidelity going over the bridge plates, why aren't you connecting the speaker cables to the high-frequency post instead of the low-frequency post?
Its a little bit of a 50/50 toss up. connecting the wires to the low input posts gives better bass response but sacrifices a small amount of fidelity that only experienced listeners can hear. Connecting to the highs posts gives that fidelity back but on thirsty speakers that like a lot of power can reduce the strength of the bass. Most of the time (for most listeners), it's not going to matter what posts you connect to so I usually dont take notice of which ones I use. When you're demoing speakers to someone who could hear those differences, I would be much more likely to bi-wire them anyway to prevent any potential loss of any kind.
A good middle ground would be to connect the + wire to the + highs post and the - wire to the - Lows post.
Is it worth by most Loudspeakers.. I have a Yamaha AX870 with Infinity Kappa 90 , with a Bridge at the Kappa‘s and than without and Bi-Amping ; huge different how better they reproduce the music WOW , and with same Power Level by the Amp they are a lot of louder than before.
Kimber monocle xl wire is directional or non directional??
Noob question here. So I have an AVR but no independent amp. So in this case I would not bi wire until I purchased an independent amp correct?
You could bi-wire, but you likely won't see much of a difference, not because of your system, but really the benefits of bi-wiring are questionable, it's a hot topic in the audiophile world. Really the most measurable difference in using twice as much cable, is you are increasing the gauge of wire going to your speaker. If you use proper wire. likely 12 to 10 awg you will be just fine for shorter speaker runs under 25ft. If you want to bi-wire, you can use two sets of cables, one with spades, and the other with banana plugs into your AVR. but really you are just buying wire. See what I did there :) There will be more benefit from bi-amping. Different amps have different sound signatures. So if you likea specific amp to drive your low end, like a Class D, and want something that has mosfetts or tubes for the top end to get a different characteristic from the top end you can change how your speakers sounds. Do some research on your speakers and find amplifiers that are complimentary of them. If you are just using your AVR for movies, I probably wouldn't bother. If you like to listen to music and want a big sound stage. Play with some 2ch stereo amps not an AVR. See what you like.
👏🏾 👏🏾 👏🏾
I wonder if the Master Ropemakers of Chatham weave these cables.😊
When bi-wiring you mentioned it doesn't matter what black or red terminal you wired into - this was in reference to those vertically below, how about using 4 terminals in a row? My Marantz PM6006 is wired like that, just wondering if that makes a difference..
On that amplifier, the purpose of speaker A&B is mainly to be able to select between two zones or two sets of speakers so I would probably just stick with standard wiring.
why would those jumpers "deteriorate" the signal? 2 inches of pure copper from HF to LF do not really make a significant difference in terms of signal transfer imo.
It's just a mental thing. Also, it's pretty hilarious he says that inch of copper is the weakest link because it deteriorates high frequecies but they still have the connectors on the low frequency inputs.
arpeemac , Electrons flows on the surface of metal and that is why stranded wire can carry more Amperes than solid piece of metal. Maybe that is a reason.
A lot of money wasted on expensive cables in this video. You might be able to measure a difference, but the chances of being able to hear a difference are between slim and none. Any decent speaker wire, multiple strand, 12ga or larger will sound the same to 99% of the population.
Those little flat jumpers between the speaker input terminals are short, wide (a lot of surface area) and have virtually no resistance.
This guy is a salesman, probably working on commission. But if you have the money to spend and it makes you happy, so be it.
@@Smedleydog1 I fully agree that most people (like me) will not hear difference, and any good quality stranded wire might do (I don't buy expensive for sure), but this "large" piece of metal has a lot of wasted surface. This piece of metal has surely less surface than equivalent mass stranded wire. Of course I am not saying that this salesman is right, I am saying he might be.
@@czakolo Without using the math that I haven't used much since school, I would say they are about the same surface area on both sides of the jumper as 12 or 14ga multiple strand speaker wire. I have them on the back of my Klipsch speakers and using a VOM, the resistance is 0. Also in the video he mentions that speakers costing thousands a pair that use the flat metal jumpers. I still think that it's marketing hype.
What's the benefit of doing both bi WIRING and bi amping when it comes to impedance/ohms?
By its very nature, the more cable present, the less impedance is added to the sum of impedance seen by the amplifier. Ideally the speaker outputs want to 'see' only the true value of speaker coil impedance, therefore influencing the 'damping factor'. Bi-amping gives improved damping factor allowing better control of the speaker cone movement [specifically the woofer] over bi-wiring/single-wiring where the crossover components for the higher frequencies would interfere with it. Bi-wiring's advantage is that the amplifier out is split at source, rather than having to divide itself at the cross over.
Cool, man ..........
great
Choice Bro.
🤟
Good illustration of the physical connectivity of bi-wiring, however, you failed to mention one of the key reasons why there is so much difference to a standard two wire set up. Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same. The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires.
This happens because the crossover elements in the speakers are still doing the job of filtering out the unwanted frequencies for each set of drivers. This means that the cables are not carrying as much current and also there is less crosstalk between the HF and LF in the system.
In my own set up I had a pair of 5m cables. As the amp was now located between the speakers, I decided to bi-wire and I could do it without having to buy wire! There were four potential improvements. First, cables half the length. Second, removal of the plate interlinks. Third, double the amount of cable for carrying the same total current. Fourth, reduced crosstalk due to frequency separation. Result was a stunning improvement in the detail levels, stereo resolution, bass definition, I could go on.
If you have speakers with this capability it's an essential upgrade.
if you are biwiring then the signal will be the same at the speaker end. since its the same source. the signal is exactly the same on both sets of ends.
unless you have some sort of filter somewhere on the cable.
if its bi amped or active then yes there will be a difference.
You're right, it would need a filter, however, there is a filter; the crossover. Just because you're bi-wiring doesn't mean you remove the crossover entirely, each drive unit retains its filtering elements. Passive bi-amping also still relies on the crossover in the speaker. In an active configuration, the crossover sits between the pre and power amps, of course.
@@markcarrington8565 yes the crossover is between the cable and the driver. the signal at the end of the cable is the same is what i'm saying. you said the HF wire carries only highs and vice versa for low even being a common connection at the amp end.
that's not the case unless its actively done at the amp in which case you would need 2 separate pairs of cables, HF AND LF.
bi-wiring carries the same signal to both sets of cables at the speaker end and as you say the crossover does the filtering. there is no HF AND LF in bi wiring as such, just two pairs of cables at one end.
chris198004 , I suspect you will not be convinced by anything I say, however, I will attempt to explain it better. Between the speaker post on the amp and the terminal on the cone is a continuous circuit made of speaker wire and a filter, with elements appropriate to the driver in between, typically a capacitor on the HF side and inductor on the LF side. This filter does exactly what you expect, it prevents current from flowing at frequencies that would damage the driver. It does not matter that the filter happens to be mounted close to the cone, it filters the signal in the whole cable between speaker post and drive unit.
The only common element between the two wires is the potential difference, or voltage at the speaker post, which is the same. To drive a speaker, however, you need current to flow and the crossover elements on each wire ensure the two sets of wires only carry current appropriate to their driver cone.
@@markcarrington8565 i totally get that mark. im well aware of how a crossover works.
all im saying is the cable itself has no change in signal from one end to the other which is what you said! you stated that the cable has different signals for HF and LF on a bi wired setup. that is not the case. I quote " Despite the connections at the amp being common, the signal travelling down each wire is not the same.The HF wire only carries the high frequencies and the same for the low frequencies. If you don't believe, me put an oscilloscope across the wires"
that is simply not the case, if the amp end is common then the other end carries the same signal BEFORE entering the crossover network. no matter how many ends are on that one cable. YES the CURRENT carrying capacity will be lower due to splitting the cable however the audio signal will be the same. im talking about the cable itself BEFORE it connects to the speaker and crossover. i believe that your first statement was about the wire not speakers.
I have 2 klipsch rp8000f ii front left and right tower speakers with an onkyo tx-nr6100 7.2 channel receiver. Today i decided to bi amp the speakers. Everything improved the highs mids and definitely the bass, but there is one problem... some sounds have moved to opposite direction i can notice this in certain songs ive always listened to and especially in games. When i test the left and right channels on the setup i can hear both at the same time instead of hearing just one speaker when switching between left and right. I can also tell it sounds more to the left when it should be only the right speaker making noise and vice versa. Is this a normal thing when bi amping?? Or is something wrong? I double checked all the connections and they are done correctly. I kind of regret bi amping them now because its a pain in the butt to get behind the system and put the jumpers back on... games are useless to me now since the sound is on opposite directions.
@Luis. My suggestion would be to first experiment and stop the bi-amping. Does the left and right return back to how you expect.
If yes, then re-think or re-double check what should think is the right channel vs left. Think about it.
If you’re facing the back of the receiver what you think is right may be left. Companies that make receivers/amps are not always consistent.
Again think about it. If you go back and sit down then suddenly the left channel becomes your right?
Believe it or not some manufacturers mix up left and right internally so it’s labeled wrong in the back.
So even after checking or re-wiring and you have the same problem just flip it around and see if the problem is fixed. Good luck.
@@f430ferrari5 i was able to fix the problem by installing banana plugs on my speaker cables, apparently some strings from the wire were not fully inserted correctly which i believe might have caused the issue. So yes banana plugs is the way to go... thanks for your suggestion
Whit bi wire connections we need to remove shorting bridges yes, but why?
Just bought myself a Yamaha rn-803d amp. And om the manual, Yamaha show how to bi wire. But They use Port A and B on the amp. Everywehere else ppl use just the A Port. How is that?
Thats Bi-amping which is different to biwiring.
Thats just yamahas way of distributing a bit more power to the same speakers.
@@SoundlineAudioNewZealand no its bi wiring. The yamaha manual is rubbish anyway. Dont know why they show a and b ports on bi wiring.
@@chriss881000 No doubt to make it easier to connect 2 sets of cables - spade terminals always make worse connections than banana plugs, so one set of cables would be at a disadvantage otherwise.