Good job sir. 👏 this was good to see as I too was curious about the whole setup. Thank you Food for thought... A 6 month or one year review of your install would be cool to see.
Just curious you might can help me out i have a lb7 just installed injectors 2 times cyl 6and 8 have a +15 bal rate on both injectors and has white smoke fuel smell ohmed the new injectors ohmed good and no blow by i have not noticed fuel in the oil or coolant thanks in advance
According to GM Loctite 27200 (GM part # 12345493)is a high heat thread locker adhesive to be used on the bottom seat of the cup. That's what I'm using and following. I don't have time to experiment with this job. Good video for information
It will work well for you. I am 15K miles into this with some pretty rough use and I have no injector cup issues with or without loctite. If I had to do it again I would use the loctite just for piece of mind.
@@wm2086Why use ford stuff for GM (Isuzu) engine? Today’s idiosyncrasies of engineering and the expensive repair and time involved I stick with the closest OEM improvements or known “better than OEM” parts and processes.
@@Gadgetstoolbox because it’s called retaining compound Locks and secures metal cylindrical assemblies Prevents metal fretting and corrosion Seals against leakage They’re no threads on injector cups why would you use thread locker
I’m in the process of rebuilding my motor and it’s trying to put new cups in my heads and they aren’t seating down in the head as easy as yours did. Got any suggestions to help them slide down in the head easier? Thank you in advance
Try a dry fit without the orings. They should fall in like butter. I was really careful to lube the orings and the top of the bore in the head with oring grease. It’s a snug but confident fit. You shouldn’t have to fight it too bad
another solid video. My guess is the locktite is just to cover the mechanics ass for not fully cleaning the mating surface. Bigger the Gob, Better the Job
Hey I’m new to duramax and I’ve got a question. So I’m loosing a lot of coolant I have to fill up every 4/5 days could bad cups cause this? If so should I reseal them or buy new ones?
Very uncommon for the cup itself to be bad, unless damaged when removing. If the cup to head interface is leaking you should see high coolant pressure. If just losing coolant but no other symptoms I would look elsewhere first
I had a couple injector cups pop out during removal. What do you use to clean the tapered seating surface on the head? Can you use scotch brite to clean up the carbon and old loctite?
I used lots of carb cleaner and shop towels on an extension. You could use scotch brite but be very very gentle. You don’t want to scratch or change the shape of the tapered seat in any way
If the cups don't pop out during an injector swap, should they be removed & cleaned? I've seen forum responses saying "leave them in if they don't pop", but if having a super clean surface is so important for the seal, then would removal & cleaning be an integral part of the swap process?
@@yictionI'm getting prepared to replace all my injectors and I was wondering the same thing. Haven't found any answers to that on utoob or anywhere else yet. Probably should pull them out while it's apart just to be safe, because rubber o rings don't last forever, and all the time and labor involved to do this job.
@@UnitedWeStand2020 found this video czcams.com/video/8ZSNSys8b58/video.html apparently there's cheap tools for pulling cups & easy to use. I'm leaning towards the same boat as you, might as well do it while i'm in there - do once cry once. plus my injectors are probably nasty so cups might stick anyway.
Great video but red loctite is a thread sealant, what you want is green loctite. And loctite does not set if its exposed to oxygen, its sets with the absence of oxygen. So you can apply it whenever you want and it will only set after installation
Hello I removed the injectors from my 6.6 duramax 2003. I noticed coolant in one of the injectors. You think you might have an idea of why that happened? Thanks in advance!
Lookin on Facebook market place. 03 duramax. 300k miles. Smokes bad at idle and while revving. Guy said that the injector cuff is pushed out slightly. And advice. Should I avoid it. How much would that fox be. Thanks
If the cup is lifted you will have tons of combustion pressure entering the cooling system. Start the truck cold with the coolant cap off and it will be very obvious, if that is the case. It could also be head gaskets or other problems so make sure you get that truck cheap if you are going for it
@@spankranchgarage he’s sure it’s the cup because he said it got pushed when he had the injector replaced. Trucks for sale around 8 gran. I’m leaning towards not getting it. Cause I’m sure other problems will arise later on
Its possible but unlikely. Your coolant is usually pressurized and the oil around the injector cup is not... so coolant would enter the oil but not vice versa. Id suspect an oil cooler issue on your truck. ~40psi of oil pressure vs the ~15psi coolant pressure its possible it could happen there.
I have a small amount of blow by. Chevy dealer said I need a new engine. $21,000. Lmao. I think it’s an injector cup leaking. It has 215,000 miles. Injectors have been replaced 3 times. Once under warranty and twice by a buddy mechanic which used to work in a dealership service department. Maybe I should take it in for new cups and injectors and see what happens
If the blowby isnt getting worse I wouldnt worry about it until its injector time again. 3 injector replacements in 215k miles is a bummer. Next time get some OEM or Dynomite Diesel injectors and run a good fuel additive/keep up on filter changes. I think Lb7 injectors can last much longer now than they used to
Loctite is gonna seal. But I don't think it should be used in such applications mainly because of heat. And the parts actually machined to fine tolerances. It's not just a simple bolt.
I had 3 cups come out with the injectors, I saw you heated it up and pulled it apart did you melt the O ring when you did that ? I’ve tried pulling twisting and it is really stuck on there
Ill tell you how to permanently fix them tmthe issue is there arent aby goid OEM head castings anynire so whats going on is the heads are so pitted around the cup bore that they just will not seal anymore fleece /freedome racing makes a brand new cast and machined in the US head with no cups required i love mine combined with head studs hopefully i never have to think about it again im too busy fixing eveyine elses enngines
Cupless is the best hands down. But if you have oem heads that aren’t pitted up you will be good. I’ll go cupless next time if they ever cause an issue
Everything Ive been taught from working at gm is if they don’t come out, don’t mess with them. If they do come out, replace them. I resealed one on my own truck snd ended up with a combustion leak. Now im replacing the failed cup.
Honestly man, I’m following your channel, but I’m gonna tell you right now every one of those seals on injector cups and injector is critical. You will notice if you fuck up a seal on that if you’re not pressurizing your cooling system, then the one O-ring that’s on your injector can pressurize your oil system or crank case system so I hate to say I am an LB seven LBZ and LLY pretty much all Duramax I work on those. I know everything that is know about them. If you mess up one of those seals on the injector system under the valve cover you are going to notice.
If you mess up the o-ring on the injector you wont notice it until you take it apart next time, all it does it keep oil from getting between the cup and the injector and crudding it up in there. The cup o-rings, the cup to cylinder head sealing surface, and the copper washer on the injector are super critical, yes.
Your video just saved me a bunch of frustration and time and trying to seat the injector cups. Many thanks bud.
Thats why I made it! Thanks for watching
Good job sir. 👏 this was good to see as I too was curious about the whole setup. Thank you
Food for thought... A 6 month or one year review of your install would be cool to see.
That is a great idea I will do that, Thank you!
Great video, quality work
Thanks for all the info brother
Any time!
Great video, thanks!
Great video thanks!
Just curious you might can help me out i have a lb7 just installed injectors 2 times cyl 6and 8 have a +15 bal rate on both injectors and has white smoke fuel smell ohmed the new injectors ohmed good and no blow by i have not noticed fuel in the oil or coolant thanks in advance
Good job 👏
According to GM Loctite 27200 (GM part # 12345493)is a high heat thread locker adhesive to be used on the bottom seat of the cup. That's what I'm using and following. I don't have time to experiment with this job. Good video for information
It will work well for you. I am 15K miles into this with some pretty rough use and I have no injector cup issues with or without loctite. If I had to do it again I would use the loctite just for piece of mind.
Thank you for this. I may or may not have missed loctite a cup and now I feel I may have not screwed myself completely
Shouldn’t you use green loctite just like the ford injector cups?
@@wm2086Why use ford stuff for GM (Isuzu) engine? Today’s idiosyncrasies of engineering and the expensive repair and time involved I stick with the closest OEM improvements or known “better than OEM” parts and processes.
@@Gadgetstoolbox because it’s called retaining compound
Locks and secures metal cylindrical assemblies
Prevents metal fretting and corrosion
Seals against leakage
They’re no threads on injector cups why would you use thread locker
great informational video
Thanks!
Great video
What is the torque spec on the injector hood down?
Very very cool thank you 👍🏋️♀️🤺
Cool shit homie
I have a GM factory manual (5 books) for Lb7 it says to use Loctite
Yes I agree Loctite is good insurance
I’m in the process of rebuilding my motor and it’s trying to put new cups in my heads and they aren’t seating down in the head as easy as yours did. Got any suggestions to help them slide down in the head easier? Thank you in advance
Try a dry fit without the orings. They should fall in like butter. I was really careful to lube the orings and the top of the bore in the head with oring grease. It’s a snug but confident fit. You shouldn’t have to fight it too bad
Cool video. Nice work.
another solid video. My guess is the locktite is just to cover the mechanics ass for not fully cleaning the mating surface. Bigger the Gob, Better the Job
I think your absolutely right there
Hey I’m new to duramax and I’ve got a question. So I’m loosing a lot of coolant I have to fill up every 4/5 days could bad cups cause this? If so should I reseal them or buy new ones?
Very uncommon for the cup itself to be bad, unless damaged when removing. If the cup to head interface is leaking you should see high coolant pressure. If just losing coolant but no other symptoms I would look elsewhere first
I had a couple injector cups pop out during removal. What do you use to clean the tapered seating surface on the head? Can you use scotch brite to clean up the carbon and old loctite?
I used lots of carb cleaner and shop towels on an extension. You could use scotch brite but be very very gentle. You don’t want to scratch or change the shape of the tapered seat in any way
If the cups don't pop out during an injector swap, should they be removed & cleaned? I've seen forum responses saying "leave them in if they don't pop", but if having a super clean surface is so important for the seal, then would removal & cleaning be an integral part of the swap process?
@@yictionI'm getting prepared to replace all my injectors and I was wondering the same thing. Haven't found any answers to that on utoob or anywhere else yet. Probably should pull them out while it's apart just to be safe, because rubber o rings don't last forever, and all the time and labor involved to do this job.
@@UnitedWeStand2020 found this video czcams.com/video/8ZSNSys8b58/video.html apparently there's cheap tools for pulling cups & easy to use. I'm leaning towards the same boat as you, might as well do it while i'm in there - do once cry once. plus my injectors are probably nasty so cups might stick anyway.
Interesting.
Great video but red loctite is a thread sealant, what you want is green loctite. And loctite does not set if its exposed to oxygen, its sets with the absence of oxygen. So you can apply it whenever you want and it will only set after installation
It calls for red not green.
Hello I removed the injectors from my 6.6 duramax 2003. I noticed coolant in one of the injectors. You think you might have an idea of why that happened? Thanks in advance!
Coolant inside the injector cub or actually inside the injector?
Thank 🎉
Lookin on Facebook market place. 03 duramax. 300k miles. Smokes bad at idle and while revving. Guy said that the injector cuff is pushed out slightly. And advice. Should I avoid it. How much would that fox be.
Thanks
If the cup is lifted you will have tons of combustion pressure entering the cooling system. Start the truck cold with the coolant cap off and it will be very obvious, if that is the case. It could also be head gaskets or other problems so make sure you get that truck cheap if you are going for it
@@spankranchgarage he’s sure it’s the cup because he said it got pushed when he had the injector replaced. Trucks for sale around 8 gran. I’m leaning towards not getting it. Cause I’m sure other problems will arise later on
Can an injector cup cause Oil in the coolant? I’m getting massive amount of oil in my coolant jug
Its possible but unlikely. Your coolant is usually pressurized and the oil around the injector cup is not... so coolant would enter the oil but not vice versa. Id suspect an oil cooler issue on your truck. ~40psi of oil pressure vs the ~15psi coolant pressure its possible it could happen there.
What grease did you use to lube the oring?
I use standard dielectric grease but they make grease just for orings that is probably better. Engine oil works great too
Time for some Purp Nurp love 😈
He sounds sick. We're worried
@@tuckermartin5559 haha the curly-cue haired cutie is well again don’t worry 😉
@@Gemini_Beautify oh thank God I was so worried!
I have a small amount of blow by. Chevy dealer said I need a new engine. $21,000. Lmao.
I think it’s an injector cup leaking.
It has 215,000 miles. Injectors have been replaced 3 times. Once under warranty and twice by a buddy mechanic which used to work in a dealership service department.
Maybe I should take it in for new cups and injectors and see what happens
If the blowby isnt getting worse I wouldnt worry about it until its injector time again. 3 injector replacements in 215k miles is a bummer. Next time get some OEM or Dynomite Diesel injectors and run a good fuel additive/keep up on filter changes. I think Lb7 injectors can last much longer now than they used to
Loctite is gonna seal. But I don't think it should be used in such applications mainly because of heat. And the parts actually machined to fine tolerances. It's not just a simple bolt.
I had 3 cups come out with the injectors, I saw you heated it up and pulled it apart did you melt the O ring when you did that ? I’ve tried pulling twisting and it is really stuck on there
It’s okay to melt the oring of you need to. Heating the tip softens the carbon buildup. That’s what I find seizes the injectors into the cups
Ill tell you how to permanently fix them tmthe issue is there arent aby goid OEM head castings anynire so whats going on is the heads are so pitted around the cup bore that they just will not seal anymore fleece /freedome racing makes a brand new cast and machined in the US head with no cups required i love mine combined with head studs hopefully i never have to think about it again im too busy fixing eveyine elses enngines
Cupless is the best hands down. But if you have oem heads that aren’t pitted up you will be good. I’ll go cupless next time if they ever cause an issue
Everything Ive been taught from working at gm is if they don’t come out, don’t mess with them. If they do come out, replace them. I resealed one on my own truck snd ended up with a combustion leak. Now im replacing the failed cup.
I agree with that. Mine have been okay for about 16K miles so far so I am hoping there good forever
Misleading title, injector cups are only found on the LB7.
Thanks for the feedback I have fixed the title
Honestly man, I’m following your channel, but I’m gonna tell you right now every one of those seals on injector cups and injector is critical. You will notice if you fuck up a seal on that if you’re not pressurizing your cooling system, then the one O-ring that’s on your injector can pressurize your oil system or crank case system so I hate to say I am an LB seven LBZ and LLY pretty much all Duramax I work on those. I know everything that is know about them. If you mess up one of those seals on the injector system under the valve cover you are going to notice.
If you mess up the o-ring on the injector you wont notice it until you take it apart next time, all it does it keep oil from getting between the cup and the injector and crudding it up in there. The cup o-rings, the cup to cylinder head sealing surface, and the copper washer on the injector are super critical, yes.
Do you work on youtube subscriber's vehicles? 😆😆