Retro MTB science: simple ways to fix chain drop on a 1x conversion
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- čas přidán 23. 06. 2022
- Some quick and easy ways to fix the dreaded chain drop on a 1x (single ring) conversion. Once again using my trusty Rolling Parts Bin (old aluminium Bianchi frame with dog's breakfast of old bits on it) as a demonstrator, and without resorting to expensive, modern, purpose-made components such as narrow-wide chainrings or clutch rear derailleurs.
- Jak na to + styl
i built one of these when i was 14 and ive only just learned about them now hahaha, and i used half a x9 long cage for a roller on the return side of the chain for even better spring retention in the custom rear mech mod!
This was just a series of fun experiments to be honest - in the end I knew the fix to end them all would be to simply put on a modern single chainring. I put on a Wolf Tooth narrow-wide and voila, zero chain drop.
Finally a video with a product like this, I want this spring together with a chain guide on my 3x9 speed and maybe I don't have to upgrade the drivetrain just to do hops
I can't guarantee that it's actually effective, but it's certainly a nice little trinket. If I'm honest, the only thing that has finally fixed this bike's problems was giving in and upgrading to a narrow-wide chainring!
@@red_dreadI have a feeling I need to go that route as well. For now I just tried a simple rubber band😂 not sure if it actually works. It feels a bit different when shifting..if it ends up working my mind is gonna be blown
@@X41N3As one of my viewers has reminded me, it's possible to increase the tension on the derailleur cage spring on some older rear mechs, such as the one in this video. You can take it apart and reposition the spring to a different hole, same principle as the 3 holes in most cantilever brake mounts.
That derailleur tensioner might be just the job to beef up the crap RD on my homebrew recumbent. Thanks for the info.
I wouldn’t say beef. Early observations are more like spaghetti. But it’s a lovely idea and you could easily replace the spring with anything stouter, it just hooks on.
GOAT of this game… dominating, as per.
Sourced and bought. Combining with a narrowide on a kona full sus 👍
If you have a proper chainring - especially a narrow wide - and/or a modern rear mech then any sort of derailleur tensioner is completely redundant, hence why nobody makes them any more. But what a lovely little trinket to have in the collection anyway!
Im on an old xt rear D so ill stick the thingy on and get it muddy. It can only help my down hill talents 😆
Your a lifesaver man thank you
Ha, the real save would be to just put a modern chainring on, which would sort you out in seconds. But I like to solve things the long and difficult way.
@@red_dread Hi, I have this problem for two months... I got hybrid bike Riverside 500E, 1x 8speed for a long not used. When I went for a short ride on 8 lowest gear chain dropped from crank set and brake chain cover, so I decided to change all drive line. I went to official shop Decathlon workshop and changed to original all new, torque sensor, chainring, chain, derailleur, cables and etc. I took my bike and I was exited till I changed gear in lowest 8 gear and it happen again.. my chain dropped from chainring in the chain cover and almost braked, I brought bike back in the shop and after long wait I was told that nothing they can do and I need to be gentle with bike and pedal not so hard.... It`s so annoying! I can use only 6 gears from 8 with no chain drop.. I lost even my hope, so now I`m asking you: Do you fink I need to try to change again to a new chainring like Shimano or smthng? Thank you!
@@Pretender_GamerI can't be sure without seeing the bike, but I can tell you that in my case the thing that fixed mine immediately was simply upgrading to a better chainring. The one I put on mine is a RaceFace narrow-wide and now the chain stays on no matter what!
Must have exact bb manufacturer specd for frame and a good front mech. If you had to ride across the planet a 3x would still be superior.
Luckily this thing isn’t getting ridden across the planet. I can’t ride it along a canal towpath without some mishap. But that’s part of the fun of experimenting.
There is a bike on retro bike alluminium o by orange looks interesting , person wants it to go to a collector
Personally I'm a bit wary of aluminium that old because it can tend to crack, but that said I've never heard of that happening to the early Oranges, and they are certainly historically interesting bikes. I hope that one goes to a good home.
Great video! My first bike was a "1x5" Raleigh Olympus circa 1979. The chain didn't fall off especially often. Was that because the chainring didn't have ramps and things and 5 gears wasn't such a large lateral displacement? I'm also surprised yours is falling off on the outside rather than the inside as usually nature abhors a chainline that isn't straight and so the chain moves wherever it can to create straightness, which in your case would be towards the centerline of the bike. 🤔
I am certain that the reason your Olympus seldom shed its chain is that a purpose-made single chainring has much longer teeth, since the chain isn’t ever meant to leave them! A suitable chainring would be an easy fix for mine too, but feels too much like cheating.
Not sure if you are aware... 90's Shimano derailleurs have two different cage spring tension settings. They are supplied on low tension mode (for optimal shifting quality). To change to the higher tension setting involves loosing the cage retention bolt, a stressful process, like pulling the pin on a hand grenade... Its all detailed in the Shimano manuals. It adds a significant extra tension on the lower cage, without the need for ugly external spring devices.
Is the Geek King crown now mine?
Very interesting - that's my kind of intel! I had noticed that there were two holes in there when I previously stripped one for cleaning. Same principle as the hole options on canti bosses. But I'd forgotten to experiment with it when messing around with this project. I might yet do it, although I've since eliminated the problem altogether just by giving in and putting a proper narrow/wide ring on there.
Very good video! Unfortunately in my country you can't really find these accessories to fix the problem. Do you know any other poor-man solutions?
Yes, the easiest fix by far is just to put a proper 1x-specific chainring on! The teeth would be far deeper than the profiled ones on my 105 inner ring, which means the chain is far less likely to come off. Doesn't have to be a fancy brand like Wolf Tooth, nor does it have to be the latest technology like narrow-wide. You just have to beware it's not too wide, for example if you're running a 9 or 10 speed or more at the back, then you'll need the narrow chain to go with it, and that might be too narrow for the fat teeth on a BMX or singlespeed chainring.
I convert my Cube aim from 8x3 to 8x1, and basically, from my view everything is correct installed, i bought a new chainring, and new chain, but my chain sometimes jump to the right side of the chainring, maybe just using the chain guide could solve the problem?
As I've found out, it's very hard to keep the chain on unless you throw money at the problem! Yes, I'm sure a chain guide would make a big difference.
Cool bike. Good video. I come from Ukraine and live in Harlow. I want a bike like this too. But so far I can't find it. Thanks
Trust me, you don’t want a bike like this! It might look nice but it’s not particularly reliable and most of the parts aren’t meant to go together.
Nice video. Would like to know what the last device with a small spring attached to the RD is called? Thanks 😊
It’s the Tektro rear derailleur arm tensioner. Almost certain to be useless but a lot of fun to find it, fit it and experiment!
Haha thanks 😂
@red_dread that device reminds me of another device... one made by the Bullet Bros, although no longer made I have seen NOS in the classifieds from time to time. Instead of the barrel adjuster it's just an arm that is held in place by the wheel's skewer, a spring and a clamp that mounts in similar fashion as the Tektro unit in your video.
So where do you source the Gusset chain holder?
No idea, sorry! It's call the Lil' Chap - I guess I just found a deal on Google somewhere. I don't think it's a rare part, good luck getting hold of one.
I know many mid-2000s and newer, non-clutch, shimano rds have a ‘high’ and ‘low’ setting for the cage tension which you can pick when reinstalling the cage. Might be a neater looking solution, though not as quirky as that spring! I wonder if this era of RDs has that feature too…
There was no such technology in the 90s! This XT rear mech has done some respectable service over the decades, but it’s woefully obsolete now.
I'm having the same problem on my build. I was thinking the chain was worn. But I snapped it and converted it back to SS. Did it work?
Mine certainly works now - but mainly because since this video I've put a new Race Face chainring on it which solved the entire problem instantly.
@@red_dread Ah, I have got a new ring I could throw on. I'll give it a go. (Subscribed)
I'm late to the party, but if you mount the chainring on the inside position of the crank arm (where the middle or inner ring would be) your chainline would be way better, eliminating a lot of the problems you are seeing. Better chainline solves 80% of chain drop issues in my experience.
This one already is, the reality on this bike is just that a well worn inner ring does not work when used as a single! Been a fun experiment though - I enjoy making it work the hard way rather than the easy way.
@@red_dread My first comment should have said, Thank you for the great content this was a fun video, but I'm a rude know it all prick. Sorry.
No apology necessary, I am the king of the know-it-all pricks. Also the comments and replies on this channel are seldom rude enough for my liking - perhaps I'd get more numbers if I started some beefs and call-out vids!
I am even later... I think you are right! The chainring could be fitted the other side of the spider. Also, take the two spacers from the drive-side BB cup and place them on the non-drive cup... Looks like there are 3 different size spacers. leave the think one on there. I have not seen a derailleur tensioner... great idea. ✌
Would a narrow/wide chainring help
Yes, it would instantly fix the problem - but then this would have been a very short and boring video!
A narrow wide chain ring would be cheaper, no?
It is but these modern rings look a bit funky on old bicycles
No doubt, plus it would instantly fix the problem - but then this wouldn’t have been much of a fun video to make! Also the point of this bike was to use up parts I already had lying around and to make them work. So far so good.
Maybe you cant keep a chain on it because its an Italian bike and hard to keep running like the old Jaguars were. Next gerry rig it bending the metal on the front mech with visegrip pliers. Or find a old Japanese made Suntour shifter in a golf course scrap metal pile put it on and have no problem . That’s what I did playing 9 holes one day and I came across a Ritchey Logic tube set Rocky Mountain. Gee with all the nationalities mentioned hope no one is offended. Im Italian and dont care.
The real reason I can't keep the chain on is that the ancient 105 chainring has very shallow, worn teeth that would slip a chain no matter what. Any new, especially narrow-wide, ring would immediately fix this - but that would hardly be a fun challenge would it?
@@red_dread There is still too much hype about 1xs / unless your dragging and heavy bike up to come down go ahead / but if your spinning out on the road to get to your trail your legs are like a hamsters legs on a spinning cage wheel / and if you live where hills are and your front ring is too large your toast