Chain Goes Slack When Coasting/Backpedaling - How To Fix
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 12. 2021
- I show how to fix a sticky freehub which can cause the chain to go slack when coasting (freewheeling), or when you backpedal. The old grease get thick, and also dirt can get inside. This can usually be fixed by flushing out the old grease/dirt, and relubing the freehub with an oil like Phil Tenacious Oil.
The bike is a 2000 Trek 6000. The hub is a Shimano FH-C201.
Freewheel vs Cassette:
• Freewheel vs Cassette ...
How To Fix A Sticky Freewheel:
• How To Fix A Sticky Fr...
▶ SUBSCRIBE & HIT THE 🔔 bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
👍 And please give my video a thumbs up 👍
▶FACEBOOK.com/RJTheBikeGuy
/ rjthebikeguy
▶TOOLS
www.rjthebikeguy.com/tools
▶SHIRTS
bit.ly/RJBikeGuyShirts
▶WEBPAGE
www.RJTheBikeGuy.com - Jak na to + styl
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Any waterproof grease works well. Phil Wood makes excellent green grease. For high end hubs I like Campagnolo grease or Rock n Roll's Superweb grease. I also like the white grease in that it's easy to see contamination.
Boat trailer bearing grease is a good cheap alternative or lithium grease.
Marine Grease is far more better than White Lithium Grease, I've used Marine Grease for 8 years straight on my bushings on my Devinci Remix 2, even though I ordered a new bushing kit back in summer 2016 when I was asked what I used to grease the bushings I simply said "Marine Grease". My bushings really didn't need to be replaced cause there wasn't any signs of wear or erosion but I had them replaced even though one bushing (drive side) was crushed. Marine Grease is "THE BEST" when it comes to lose bearings in axles and headsets, I'll be enjoying my trail bike for many years down the road...
By taking the mystery out of how many of these repairs should be done, you have motivated me to work outside my comfort zone. Things I would never have considered possible for me in the past, I'm not afraid to tackle anymore. Keep doing what you're doing.
In addition to that you have saved me a lot of money.
And . . . . . , I've made friends I wouldn't have made before. I was pulling into a picnic grove one day to take a lunch break. There was a young guy sitting at a picnic table intently watching something on his phone. I was a good 30-40 feet away from him but I could hear your distinctive voice so I said, "Hey, you're watching RJ the Bike Guy, aren't you?" Next thing you know we're comparing bikes, parts, experiences, your video, hints and notes, etc. It was the highlight of my day!
RJ, the generous sharing of your immense knowledge of all things bike is a gift. Thanks so much... you have gotten me out of many pickles this year and taught me so many new procedures. Very grateful.
Same.
I love the patience you have to explain all the steps even though he obviously has done it thousands of times! A genius bike mechanics!
RJ is the best bike maintenance/ repair channel out there. No extra bullshit, 100% solutions and clear descriptions
RJ!!!!!!! Man I cant even express in words how much your videos have helped me dude!!! Im stoked to see you back with another video!
Handy tip: A lot of free hubs require an 11mm allen key. However, you can use a 3/8" square drive extension bar from a socket set if you don't have that... it fits perfectly.
The hub shown in video is a shimano, chances are it will take 14mm allen key.
Nice job, RJ!n. I saw that someone suggested heating up the freehub to allow Phil's oil to more easily penetrate the freehub mechanism. I do something similar. Heat up a pan of water till it boils. Turn off the heat and take the pan off the burner. Put the bottle of Phil's Oil in the heated water for several minutes. At this point, Phil's oil will flow much better into the freehub mechanism. I do the same thing when lubricating freeWHEELS after they've been thoroughly cleaned by soaking in a solvent. (No need to take the freewheel apart.)
Cue tips (cotton buds in Australia) are good for getting into those 'hard to get at' places like the bearing race.
I’m an old pro at freehub maintenance. Get a rubber stopper that plugs the hole in the removed freehub body. Then you can really blast out all the old gummy stuff with compressed air. With the stopper in place, fill the bearing cavity with 75w-90 automotive gear oil (I use Mobil 1 75w-90). Set fh body upright on a towel. When oil soaks through, pour out the excess, wad up a paper towel inside, turn fh body upside down to allow excess oil to drain out. Wipe it clean, reinstall on the hub, and finish.
I find Phil oil too sticky, especially in cool/cold climates. Lighter gear oil is superior for this. And it’s cheap!
Quick tip: if you heat up your freehub, he thick oil can sneak easier into it.
wow, that's a lot more work than I expected. Amazing detail, thanks so much
Glad to see you on here!
WOW. So glad to see your videk today. RJ the bike guy is back in full effect. Thousands of bicycles saved from the heap because of the great RJ. RJ the peoples champion. Long live RJ.
Welcome back. Man, the amount of money you've saved me over the years! 🙏🏾
Merry Xmas, Mr. RJ! And To All My Fellow Bike Riders!✨✨🚴🏼♂🚴🏼♀
This is so much fun... Sometimes you have to dismantle the freewheel alltogether and that's where the real fun starts :D :D
Welcome back RJ
Very happy to see you again
Great video. I am new to the channel but have been working on bikes for over 50 years. One tip to get the bearings in easier is to partially insert the axle and drop the balls in by hand . Once they're in go to the opposite side and check all is well spinning the axle using the cone end against the balls. Also have found using two cone spanners on opposite sides of the hub with the locknut finger right is easier to adjust the axle for play . You want it just a little tight, then as you tighten the non drive cone against the locknut the axle frees up a touch with no play or stiffness.
Great attention to detail RJ..!
Thanks for step by step videos...🙏
RJ: Great instructional video. These are so helpful to home bike mechanics and a godsend to many in the cycling community. I keep a vintage road bike on the road because of you. Please keep up all the great work on your channel (great production values) as your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks again.
Funny story: My Allmountain Enduro's old rear wheel had a bad freehub body on it and it did have a tendency to get stuck while riding, often leading to me stomping into a whole lot of nothing while trying to pedal for a short boost. There were a few times where this almost caused me to crash but I was lucky and got away with it.
To fix that I opened up the freehub body and cleaned it thoroughly before putting it back together, but the problem persisted. I ended up taking out the thinnest of 3 washers in there (and I may or may not have watched 1 of ur other videos to learn how to dis- and reassemble a freehub body) and while that gave the freehub body some very slight play on the hub it finally freed it up enough to not get stuck anymore. It was only meant to be a temporary solution tho since I was planning to replace the wheels anyway.
Now that I have indeed replaced the wheels with a NOAhubs custom wheelset and also replaced the old 3x9 with a 1x9 drivetrain with a much bigger cassette it turns out I'd better make sure to keep the new derailleur's clutch engaged since the massive new cassette takes a moment to come to a stop as I stop pedaling abruptly and puts a small but noticeable amount of slack on the upper bit of chain, then gets turned backwards slightly from the tension in the lower bit of chain and yanks the cranks back slightly as the upper bit of chain tensions again and stops the cassette's backward spin. With the clutch engaged it's noticable but not problematic, with the clutch disengaged it starts to get somewhat worrying. Kinda fun to play with while freewheeling tho.
I guess I should look for a lighter cassette when the time comes to replace the current one.
I always enjoy your videos RJ. Many thanks for producing and kindly sharing the wisdom. Have a great Christmas 2021 and a very happy 2022 new year 🙏
Wow perfect timing, I have this exact problem on an old Stumpy I'm fixing up! Thanks Mr. Bike Guy!
The one and only is back!!!!
Another good and thorough educational video, welldone and thank you, enjoy a fantastic season.
Excellent video. Explained the symptom and the remedy in a concise way. I think I can do this now.
Great that you are back
All is good in the universe again. RJ the bike guy is back!
Very well filmed and explained…excellent tutorial. Thanks so much for posting..I’ve subscribed! 👍👍
You always do a great job!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s to you and your family!!
The perfect Christmas present…RJ is back online! 👏
Thanks RJ! You're a saviour. I knew right from the start when I read the title that you have the solution, made myself a coffee and enjoyed your work.
I was regreasing my hubs and the extra grease seemed to gunk up the freewheel and the chain was going slack when backpedaling.
I managed to clean the freehub with disc brake cleaner which should be some kind of mineral spirit based solution. It dries extremely fast and since it's a spray it can penetrate the freehub nicely. My bike runs smooth again! Thanks again!
OMG I literally had this problem the other week after having my bike serviced, I noticed it would chain slap and I assumed my chain might have been longer than needed because I had it replaced and the mechanic said he had to reduce the number of links but I forgot to count the number I had and here I am finding your video with what is actually happening with it!
czcams.com/video/ELsKrgTt0oY/video.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks!!
Another satisfied customer! Thanks for making my life a little easier😊
Merry Christmas to you and yours RJ.👍😊
Glad to see you back.
Another great video thanks RJ. and happy holidays.👍
The one and only is back.
Good job and merry christmas.
Excellent video, I'm going to fix my freehub, but one little thing when placing back your wheel, put it on the ground so you know its in correctly and it's not misaligned with the brakes and such
Good to see you back 👍
Nice seeing you upping a vid again :) happy holidays
Haven't seen you in a while RJ. All the best for the New Year! That 40Nm torque is important. I've seen the locknut come undone and it can ruin your day.
thanks for the practical solution, much easier than prying the whole hub open and grease..
As l don't have Phil oil, I use SAE140 gear oil. Merry Christmas, RJ!
thanks rj your a mind reader came across this today with a old bike and wasnt too shore what to do but now i am ,,,,many thanxs yor a genius!!
RJ the Man. I seen the notification for your vid and stopped what I was doing to watch it. Awesome video sir as always.
this is the only channel where i give instant thumb up without watching the video first
Merry Christmas RJ!
Still THE bike guy, love this channel!
damn, i love these bike repair vids!
happy christmas
Great job, RJ.... 👍
RJ is back!!!
I hope to see some bike builds again I loved the bike builds you did I especially like your 1 by gravel bike build RJ!! I hope to see some bike builds in the future!!
Video was very helpful. I had no idea what the cause if this problem was on my bike. I was able to spray it with WD 40 without taking it apart to fix freewheel. Then dripped in oil with tube to reach bearings. This resolved the issue. I have a 47 year old schwinn continental 10 speed.
RJ, as a person who lives to ride and loves to restore and modify, I want to say that your depth of knowledge is amazing. Your vids have helped me through so many times when I was bummed out over a bike issue. I can always find the answer with you. God bless and keep on keepin on.
You make the cone adjustment look easy. I always struggled with it on these old school hubs. One note, when you were blowing compressed air, the wheel was right under and you could have gotten some WD-40 on the braking surface.
Welcome back man
Hello RJ,
Subscribed for over a year. Watching your video today which indeed is a Christmas gift because I've been wondering what caused chain slack on back pedaling and thought it was the derailleur.
Thanks very much and Merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas RJ. Stay healthy and safe
RJ, do you maybe know how to weld?
If maybe yes, can you please show us how to weld?
hi rj keep up the good work
Another great video best bike shop i' will ever find i have learned so much many thanks.
I Miss the Huffing and Puffing RJ. Thank You for the vids 😁❤️
Thanks for this video. I think this is my issue on my bike. I am gonna try it later on.
Finally, the content we've all been craving.
Thanks so much for doing these videos.
I definitely have a sticky freehub.
I will attempt this fix. Thanks.
Even tho I’ve no vice at home.
Blimey mate, just thinking about you a few days ago and wondered where you'd gone!!!
You're well and safe. Excellent. Great post as always.
Merry Christmas to you and yours
Ian, Birmingham, England
Nice job RJ ,and Happy Holidays to you.
Having wrenched for several years to support my racing habit (many moons ago) I say, 'Right on". Agree with everything you showed and you showed it well.
Just to add a couple bonus points I've picked up:
I also use a marine "paste", with MoS2 but I found originally it seemed to thicken the colder it got so now I add 2-3 drops of 3-in1 to each race before I close it up. Same with the cranks. Both Dura-Ace.
Also, about adjusting cones: I'll allow a slight bit of play, and have found that tightening the skewers compresses the cones together a miniscule amount, usually just enough to take out the play. It's about as free-spinning as you could want while keeping constant contact with the bearings. A racing tip.
Thanks for sharing.
A good closed cam QR can exert around 1000lbs/ square inch. That's a lot. Definately enough to compress the axle lengthwise. You're absolutely correct. Preload MUST be checked with the wheel clamped in the frame. Very high end hubs such as some Campagnolo and Chris King hubs use adjusting collars so you can easily adjust preload while the wheel is clamped in the frame. I wish more hubs had this feature. Its ultra convenient. That is their very best feature besides the very finest bearings.
Don't get me wrong, I love Dura Ace, XTR and XT hubs as well. Shimano hubs, well maintained are about the best value going on the market. Especially the older models. Nothing like that other S brand whose name I won't utter. They build junk.
There doesn't seem like many 'enthusiasts' who appreciate the advantages of cup and cone or angular contact bearings any more. They've gotten a bad rep from ham handed lazy dummies who can't wrench or dont understand how important our bearings truly are. I understood, at 8 years old, when I overhauled my first coaster brake!!
You CAN adjust ALL
AC bearings (even cheap cup and cone hubs) for perfect preload and to accommodate wear. ALL you need to replace upon overhaul is new balls and grease or use oil for really fast hubs. All you need is cone wrenches. All stuff that's very affordable. This sort of hub can be maintained to last DECADES. Ive got Campy Record hubs 43 years old that are still perfectly smooth and fast.
You can't adjust most cartridge bearings in lots of 'high end' blingy overpriced hubs. You just use them until you can't tolerate the looseness or contamination anymore. VERY FEW high end hubs use AC bearings. Only one company I know of (I build and repair lots of wheels) makes their own aerospace quality AC bearings that are SERVICEABLE for life. That's Chris King. Ive got their hubs 28 years old, still original bearings after well over 100000 miles ridden. Beautiful bearings to an aerospace machinist such as myseld. It's why they're so expensive, not to mention aerospace like quality manufacturing. You dont throw CK carrridge bearings away. You can service them. You can remove metal circlips, rubber seals, then use tri flow and Compressed air clean 'em out. These bearings are over $70 each! You want to take care of them! I overhaul my CK's about every other year and the white grease I like hardly turns grey. Ive even repaired my client's gritty, slipping and stuck CK hubs and they almost always come back to a good smooth condition. Ive bought most of my CK hubs used when the seller thought they were trashed, overhauled them into like new hubs. This is how I afford CK prices!! Longevity, reliability and durability actually justifies the cost! If you want a bad weather hub, this is the ticket. Best seals in the business.A really good value if you ride lots and actually take care of your junk!
@@rollinrat4850 but do you use cartridge bearing bottom brackets?
@@peterwillson1355 I have both loose ball and cartridge bearing BBs. All BSA or Italian threaded. No pressfit shit frames for me
Its a compromised garbage design in general.
Ive even machined some of my own BBs. I love DIY and building my own junk. I get exactly what I want this way.
@@rollinrat4850 in my experience, cartridge bbs are useless. Stiff to turn when new, a brief period of Good, then play develops...I use "vintage" bb spindles with cups and loose balls. I only asked because so many people rage about great quality wheel hubs but then accept in a bb what they would NEVER accept in a wheel hub.
@@peterwillson1355 The cheap replacement types are cheap. You pay for what you get. With cheap stuff, quality is almost always a compromise.
Bb threads and facing is often not correctly prepped on factory bikes. ESPECIALLY entry level bikes. Just more quslity control steps skipped in the name of profit.
I've gotten many abusive years and miles out of inexpensive Shimano cartridge BBs. They're well sealed. Seals cause the most friction in cartridge bearings.
If you ride lots in wet weather, you can kill any BB if you let water sit in the frame long. After a wet ride, simply remove your seatpost, set the bike upside down and let the water drip out for a few hours.
I've killed Phil Wood BBs in one ultra wet thunderstorm ride. They're among the best made in the planet.
Great video, to the point and no excess bs, thanks
Nice to see you back ..long time ago
If Fletch taught me anything its that It's ALL ball bearings nowadays! =)
Bravo!
What a coincidence. Went on a Christmas morning ride today and noticed my chain going slack when I backpedaled. I thought that was normal. Looking forward to servicing the freehub now. Thanks RJ!
Same
Always great and informative videos
Great video, Merry Christmas! 🎄 🎅 🎁
Great informative video. I'm wondering if you have done a video on how to properly refill the hand held grease gun? I have two and I can't seem to get them to work right after refilling them. They are a pain to do properly and to ensure all the air is out of the chamber. If you haven't done one, could you? Like your other videos I think many of your subscribers would find it helpful. If you have done one, please direct me to it, thanks.
Excellent my brother
My bike is brand new and I’ve only ridden it a few times. It already does this. Wow. I don’t know anything about bikes and thought I was pedaling wrong somehow.🤪
This RJ for sharing - great stuff!
Wish you a merry christmas and a happy new year 🎉
Merry Christmas! 🔥🎄🌫️
Great camera work.
I did this with a bike recently. The only difference is that I soaked the freehub in petrol overnight rather than use wd-40. Great video as always man 👍
I have this exact problem. It manifests itself when coasting in the small cog in which case the chain gets pushed forward and starts flopping around. I thought it was just weak springs on the RD but after replacing the RD a couple of times, I can see that it's the hub sticking. I like how you boldy go and completely disassemble the freehub, but in my experience, once I start messing with the bearings, the result is never as good as it would be with a brand new hub, and so when this happens, I just replace the hub. By the time things start to go wonky like this, the inside of the hub is probably pitted badly so replacing the bearings might work for a while but eventually it will start to wobble again.
Thanks for the video, very informative if you need to do a full flush. However, I had the same problem and was able to spray WD40 into the freehub which resolved it without the extra steps shown in the video. I'd suggest trying the quick fix first then resort to extra steps if required.
Merry Christmas ❤️🎄also I have done similar vidios like this any way you are the real bike guy......
By sheer coincidence I did this yesterday [Christmas day] for the first time ever. The 10mm hex step I think I missed though but I took out the pawls so I think I succeeded in the end!?
Exelent content. Really useful👍
Good job RJ. Fred from RCB . Well done with all of the detail. I have broken down the cassette to its parts. There are a million tiny bearings inside. Lot of work and bearing counting to do that. A good spray to remove grit and grease is Shop Solv from Castle Chemicals. As a chemist I’ll say great degreaser spray but highly flammable.
I have done that also.czcams.com/video/X9gIEG1db0s/video.html
Awesome video
Thanks for the video. Couldn't you also remove the center from the freehub (with that specific, wierd tool they make for it) and more thoroughly clean the inside (especially around the "pawls" that are often really gunked up)?
good job, man !
Awesome thanks 👍🏽👍🏻
Hi RJ, in my case the chain went slack back pedalling because the set screw that holds the the rear derailler in place was rubbing against the cassette and stopping it from turning when back pedalling. I loosened the screw until it didn't rub against it and that stopped the chain from going slack.
He is RJ the bike guy!
how about shimano non series hub like tx505 pr rm33 ,is the disassembling method the same?
I love this, honestly I´m a little tired of watching high end bike builds and upgrades.
Thanks!
never had that problem but will watch video just in case
Hi! Is it posible to disassemble this kind of freewheel body into smaller parts for change the barings balls ?