Freewheel vs Cassette - What Are They? Can I Convert?
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- čas přidán 26. 06. 2024
- I show close up the differences between freewheels and cassettes. I also show how they mount to the wheel. Hopefully this will help people identify whether they have a cassette or a freewheel.
Freewheels usually have 5 - 7 cogs and screw on to the hub. Modern cassettes (like Shimano Hyperglide) usually have 7 - 11 cogs and are held onto a ratcheting freehub body with a lock ring. There was an older Shimano cassette called Uniglide that was held on the freehub body with the smallest cog acting as the lock ring. Uniglide cassettes are not very common anymore.
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RJ The Bike Guy you know how you said that more you ride a bike, the more the cassette tightens. Should I kissing mine every once in while
@@4_Low_Off_Road A freewheel gets tighter. Not the cassette.And just leave it.
RJ The Bike Guy which type is better
@Markus Patients Yeah, get your frame spacing, wheel size, and axle type (probably not a thru if you have a cassette), and order the proper wheel.
@@RJTheBikeGuy can i move 24" bike Cassette to 26" bike rim?
Just wanted to say this video both taught me a critical lesson that a freewheel and cassette are two different things and saved me from destroying my sons bike treating it like a cassette when it was actually a freewheel.
Really appreciate this video.
Same here, doing some up grade to the kids 24 inch bike and realize just opened a can of worm.
Same here but the kid here is 62 years old me. I'm on a suicide mission upgrading my 1986 Diamond Back Arrival MTB. I'm going to build a new wheel.
Excellent tutorial! I never knew there was a difference until recently in my research for a good rear hub motor ebike kit. I had no idea what was being referred to when some manufacturers say "7 speed cassette" or "7 speed free wheel" compatible. ... so now I understand. Thanks for this video.
This help a ton! I'm currently rebuilding a road bike and didn't realize there were two types!
Nice tutorial. Clear explanation that includes just the right amount of clarification of the variables without getting bogged down in minutia. Very concise and excellent photography, too.
Very useful to me - just got back to cycling after about 35(!) years and always had the old hub gears before. Never messed with those, the exploded view diagrams were positively frightening.
Wasn't even wondering the answer to this question,
but I'm so glad I spent the time to watch and hear the answers.
great video, i used to fix bikes as a teen, and know i'm teaching my 10 yr old son, but i needed some update. this video helped alot. thanks for sharing the info.
This is amazing. Thank you for posting this comparison - it's so clear!
I remember when a cassette was you put in an 8 track player to listen to music.
they would fit but wouldn't play if you did. Just messing with you. Originally, I think they called 8-track tapes a cassette. Actually they first came out with the 4 track tape (mono not stereo I believe) then when they changed to stereo they had to double the tracks. Trivia; the tape they used in 8-tracks was the same width as a home Reel to Reel tape machine so they had the potential for good sound quality but still had that damn track change right in the middle of your favorite song, fade out , click-click, fade back in. Plus reel to reel I think only used four "tracks" in the same space, two for each direction if I remember.
ok boomer
@@manstersr Nope. They were called "cartridges." Cassettes replaced 8-track cartridges. 😊 Had an 8-track player in my '62 Ford Fairlane 500. Oh, how I miss that car.
Cassettes were much easier. If the tape got pulled out you could use a pencil to try and get it to rewind back inside - but it was never the same. With an 8 track you were pretty much screwed.
That's what I thought as well!
You are a big asset to those of us who can't afford a mechanic I must say God Bless you!
That's how you explain something!
Well done.
This flag represent Canada more than the real Canadian flag does lol
Thank you for actually doing visual demonstrations moving parts... that's REALLY important and valuable, awesome video!
Clean, easy to understand video as always. It's nice to see advancements when you're working with bikes from different decades. Freewheel had problem with the threads = wobble and axles bending because the placement of bearings. Same thing with BB's when they moved bearings closer to cranks to reduce sideways torque.
Love your videos. Thanks for your work.
I love the simplicity of your videos. This was one question I had and you answered it perfectly.
Thank you for taking your time to explain, am trying to learn so I can better understand so when I upgrade I'll be better informed! Sharing knowledge is like sharing food for the brain! Again Thank's!
Thanks for the informative video. It helped me differentiate between the types of rear wheel sprockets. One can easily make a mistake in getting the wrong rim or the wrong type sprocket, in this case a freewheel or a cassette. I'm glad I saw this this before I ordered a freewheel and it's corresponding rim.
RJ …… thanks 🙏 for the 12 years I’ve learned about bikes 🚲 watching your videos …. Now at 61 I’ll be working in a bike shop as a mechanic…. So I am doing some revision !
I have been misusing those terms for years. Time to get it right. Thanks, RJ.
Thanks for posting this video, it's been very informative. I'm just starting out again with bicycles and want to get into the mechanical stuff as much as possible and will probably convert my bike to cassette in the long run (I'm going to treat it as a bit of a project)
So are most newer mtbs cassette style setups?
Yes. Low end bikes might still have freewheels.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks you rock. I'm tinkering on my diamondback response mtb for the first time and I need to buy a removal tool.
@@mixflip Keep in mind that the old flywheel ones last a lifetime, and the new Shimano cassettes a few years. (depending on how you keep your bike)
@@Makulax Yes i Think you are right I think the old ones are steel and the new ones alloy Iguess the future ones will be some composite materials ceramic mixed with different hardening materials probably some carbon fiber with plated with ceramic composite in the more expensive ones similar to xx1 etc today for the Roadies that wants their bike to not be affected by gravity so they only pedal their own weight
@@HeathenRides IM FUCKING DEAD 😂 💀
Hello RJ, thank you for your videos and channel, very informative and I fixed many problems thanks to you. No bullshit talk, just straight to the point and to points that are actually important. Many thanks again.
5 years ago...but still helpful! Thank you!
Something you probably could have talk about is the plus and the con of a freewheel and a cassette. So i will write them down.
Upside of using a freewheel:
Changing the freewheel also result in the change of the rachette mechanism.
sometime the price can be cheaper. for the part itself.
Downside:
if the last time the freewheel was instal has been without greass on the threads and it's very rusty, then it may be impossible to remove.
it is very likely to be heavier
the more you force on pedaling, the harder it will become to extract.
Upside of a cassette:
More likely to be lighter.
the screw wont tighten as you ride, as long it's greased when installing. It will always be easy to remove the screw holding the cassette.
the ball bearing's bowl is in the cassette's core, as a result, if the bowl get spotted from riding impact or worn bearing. It can be replace.
because the bearing is in the core's cassette, it has better weight support and handle impacts much better.
Downside:
The cassette's core is never replaced when replacing the old cassette, so wear will eventually comeback and say hello to your pockets.
if the cassette's core has to be change, you also need to remove the bearing/shaft to access the center screw which need unusually bigger Allen key. Then you need good skill to rebuild the bearing with no play.
con to myself... why did i even took the time to write all this. Welp it's there now.
The main reason is that with more gears, the freewheel got wider and wider, and the axle extending out past the bearings in the hub got longer and longer and more prone to bending and breaking. Freehubs allow the bearings to be farther out and less bent, broken axles.
4 year old video and it’s still helping people (like me) out. Thank you so much!
Thanks for making this, cleared up my question.
Hi RJ - Thanks very much for this clear explanation. Probably saved me from making an expensive mistake. Keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot RJ :)
I was confused about cassette and freewheel.
U explained very clearly. Thanks
+Rounak SIngh He could have said all in two sentences:A freewheel has mostly 5-7 gears and is fabricated with the freehub as one part. A cassette has 7-10 gears and they are exchangeable and is no replacement for a freewheel.
What he fails to talk about is the bearing position, cassette vs freewheel. And why you would use the cassette over the freewheel design. Basically, on a freewheel the bearing is positioned in the hub behind the threads, a couple inches from the axle contact with the frame. This leaves a relatively long section of axle between axle support and bearing surface, making for a rather large lever. With large vertical forces on the axle, like in common Mt biking, it tends to bend the axle and cause damage to the hub. Shimano introduced their HG style for mountain bikes to eliminate this problem. And it became the industry standard very rapidly. The bearing is placed in the free-hub, much closer to the axle support, and stopped bent and broken axles.
Any application where increased weight or vertical motion puts added stress on the axle, like tandem or loaded touring and all forms of off road riding, a free-hub and cassette is the correct choice for the bike. For light weight riders doing smooth road riding without rapid vertical events a freewheel is fine. Heavier riders should stay clear of freewheels or be prepared to change out bent axles. In the case of a bent axle that is allowed to progress, it will destroy the hub.
i agree with you but i managed to break 3 or 4 cassettes hubs in last 1 year in my occasional driving on steep hil,
@@makantahi3731 I feel your pain. And I bet I can tell you what happened. Shimano freehubs changed everything, but are not without their own issues. Under high stress or when contaminated with grit they tend to crack and die. I have had chips from the prawl catches get in the bearings and eat up the races. As well as shattering of the case. As soon as I see any sign of gear catch or drag they are replaced. I have tried servicing them with limited success. So, I bet your problem has not been with the cassette (which wear relatively to chain wear) but the freehub.
cassete hubs,3 of 4 hubs broke on same place:on right side of hub in body of cassete left thread broke on what is screwed outher "cup" of bearing (inside are balls), when i bought last hub i asked seller if he can guarantee it will not break-still is ok but i was on lethal uphill only twice. when i had freewheel system i broke axle every 2000km, then i switched on shimano cassete hubs with 7/8 speed and drove races on it and no problems (1995-2000) and now when i drive occasionally i started to destroy hubs
@@makantahi3731 Your English syntax is poor, and I think you are using your terms inappropriately. A cassette has no threads. They slide onto splines on the free-hub. The free-hub is is attached to the hub body by a threaded bolt that the axle goes thru. The damage I was referring to is usually cracks or breakage to the free-hub casing. The race for the drive side bearings is threaded into the free-hub casing. It is pressure from those bearings that causes the breakage to the casings. By transferring loads to the 2 rows of very small bearings in the free-hub that are generally not easily accessible. Those loads put lateral pressure on the casing causing failure. I believe your problem is a broken free-hub casing, a fairly common occurrence. Upgrading to a hub brand, like Chris King or Hope, that uses a CNC'd free-hub casing (Shimano uses a cast casing) will fix your problem. Otherwise, learn the signs of the free-hub failing and replace as soon as you see them. If you continue to ride steep hills once the damage has started you WILL continue to have failure.
we can speek in my language if you know it better than i know english, if you want to disasemble hub , you unscrew nuts on axle, when axle is out of hub you can remove bearing balls and on right side of hub in free hub if you wanna get to smaller balls, you have to unscrew left thread "nut"/"cup" /"outher bearing bed"(not hollow screw that keeps free hub on rest of hub)-that thread is broken , on two hubs, and it can not be discovered when it started to break, only when is broken and wheel then starts to dance left/right, now i have some no name hub that seller claim that will not beak, if would i have spare parts and will try to repare shimano hubs
Love your videos - you helped me service a sturney archer on my own because you were able to explain it so carefully and well..
Your the best information out there on bicycles, period. Thank you!
Finally i was able to figure out your opening line! it's "Hey dears!! I've had some viewers etc etc" Such a sweet guy :D
Sorry, but's "Hey viewers!"
@@RJTheBikeGuy Nooo please don't ruin it for me, it's "Hey Dears!!!" ;_;
Joking RJ, love your channel! Hope you're all better from the crash!
thanks a lot otherwise i was braking my had how i put my old wreewheel on my new wheel with cassette LOL. good video.
Very informative. Thanks for clearing that up
Finally a interesting you tube channell for bikes..thanks man
You could have told me that before I ordered that new cassette two days ago.... now I need a new wheel, and about a dozen catholic monks in mint condition.
Thanks for the excellent explanation, anyways.
+Robert Wetzel A dozen catholic monks???? To be fair, I posted this video back in July...
RJ The Bike Guy
I absolutely know and noticed. The monks were just random trolling, an old-fashioned yet reliable device for that.
Gotta go watch some of your other videos :-)
i know this is a old vid but ca you give me a link if you have one to a vid that shows how to take off a freewheel tire and replace it with a cassette
dozen of monks? are you trying to get rid of some young boys?
Hahahahah
Just came across a kid bike 7 speed with uniglide on it.. it had plastic spacers between all the gears and several had broken. Ended up making new spacers using sheet of delrin that I sanded to the correct thicknesses.
Thank you for detailing in such an easy language.
I'm learning quite a bit from you channel. Thank you!
To remove a freewheel you can clamp the remover tool in a bench vice and place the wheel down over to mesh the freewheel splines firmly into the tool in the vice. Then grip the the tread of the tire like a steering wheel and turn the wheel to loosen the freewheel using the leverage of the spokes. I seem to remember you turn it counter-clockwise to loosen but I'm not sure. Otherwise you need a wrench with a long handle for leverage.
Yes it's you turn the wheel CCW to remove a freewheel. Just like if you used a wrench. It screws on clockwise so as you pedal, the freewheel gets tighter. I did have one wheel that the freewheel was so corroded and had been on the wheel for decades, two of us turned the wheel and the freewheel remover shattered!
Thanks for the info bought a second hand bike for £50 to ride to work and learn to repair been relying heavily on videos like this to learn I apreciate it
Thanks for clearing this up for me. I just bought a bike that has a freewheel and I read some reviews of the bike that bemoaned this fact. I then became curious about the difference between a freewheel and a cassette (and the advantages/disadvantages of both). This provided the information I needed. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. This was just in time. I got a 1986 Trek 850 at a yard sale for $15. And was planning upgrade everything to more modern equipment. You videos have help me so much in my planning. keep you the great work.
Kevin R. Dunn Good deal!
your always great on explaining .... that's what i love on your channel dude!! keep it up!...
back in the day the straight block 11-18 freewheel was the way to go for me...those were the days..
Yep, cuz cadence is so important. Except when you're pedaling at 10rpms up anything above 10%.
In my racing days a straight block was usually 13-18 :)
@@PRH123 we used to build them ourselves for the weekly club races which were super competitive
Thanks. Very Helpful.
Thank you very much for the great video with explanation, thanks to the master who was explaining on the video
Nowadays, you can get 12 speed cassettes. Mostly on mountain bikes with Sram being one of the more popular brands with Shimano either equal or slightly behind Sram.
Ye mine does
One important difference, at least for heavier folks, is that a cassette / freehub distributes weight on the axle better than a freewheel. The drive-side bearings are much further from the dropout on the freewheel which can lead to bent or broken axles. Freehub / cassettes have the bearing much closer to the dropout hence less stress on the axle.
Bought a 27.5 mtb wheel with cassette today.
The freewheel type wheel that came with the bike has snapped 5 axles and bent one solid axle in the last 5 years. I am free of that wheel now!!!!!!!
Very well explained. Thanks a lot.
Love this video. Very informative. Thank you!
You are doing so good: whenever I start wondering if something is possible with some older bike components I have, I usually end up on one of your videos.
Now I'm happy to find I have a cassette and not a freewheel, so I start wondering could I bring this 7 speed wheel in line with my other (9 speed) bike, so I google.
And what do I find: another video of yours: czcams.com/video/n5YkkAP_QVI/video.html explaining just that!
Thanks for the incredible amount of knowledge you spread and in such a clear way!
you just answered a conundrum I've had for years now , I have the two pin free wheel removal tool in my tool box and couldn't remember what it was for .... now I know haha , it was an old bike from the 1990's , thanks RJ you just made an old man very happy :D ( I'd been racking my brains wondering what I used it for )
Very helpful . explained the different type of tools for different free hub types . elegant tool
VERY concise, and no filler. You got a like and a new subscriber, old sport
It's worth explaining why cassettes overtook freewheels, so folks don't bother with the 8, 9, and 10- speed freewheels that are on the market today.
Short version: The longer the axle end overhangs to pass through the freewheel, the easier it is to bend and break. By the time 7 speeds were common, reliability became enough of a problem for most people that cassettes arose to address it.
Precisely. I couldn’t have said it better myself.
chalo colina i just realised the difference between freewheel and cassettes and i have a freewheel rip might buy a new rim with a freehub
Yep. Most people assume the biggest advantage of the cassette over the freewheel hub was ease of removal. But it’s the elimination of the broken axle problem inherent in the overhung axle bearings on the drive side.
And now with many modern 'boutique' cassette wheels; those old lessons about bearing placement go out the window. with funky 'modular hub' designs that have a freehub body that just slip fits onto the axle shaft and has its own bearings separated from the main hub body.
The main advantage of a cassette hub over a freewheel hub (besides reliability and simplicity) is that the rear right fork of the frame will sit on the axle on the hub side much closer in from right end of the axle (looking from the rear of the bike), whereas with the freewheel hub, the right fork sits much farther out towards the end of the axle, making the axle much more susceptible to breakage.
Not only because of breakage, also because of crooking. Nearly EVERY axle of a used cassette hub i've seen was crooked. This of course inflicts damage to the bearing. Therefore it's actually worth to convert to freewheel.. ;)
Agreed. I'm large and have strong legs, and replacing the rear axle was just part of the regular maintenance when I had a freewheel -- and that was on my road bike. With a freehub, I've never had to replace the axle.
Good lesson! Now I understand why the cassete I bought looked different from the one installed on my bike. Damm. is not a cassette but a freewheel. Many Thanks.
Excellent video! I learned something new today ☺
👍👍
I'd like to see something on the benefits of switching to a casette from a freewheel.
not much except for the ability to upgrade and change your axle and cassette easily.
Why o why did I not see this video before trying to fix my freewheel with a cassette ...
You have taught me so much about everything there are to know about a bicycle. Now everyone in my town. Bout 2000 people total. I'd say 20 bikers. They come to me for repairs thanks R. J.
Cool!
Very informative! Thanks!
I'm not a road biker, but have recently taken up riding some parts of my ride on paved ground to extend my rides, and so I come into contact with road bikers a lot now. One thing I noticed was that their rear hub, sometimes, was much louder than mine. I happen to have a rear cassette and after hearing you spin the freewheel a few times I think I know why they were so loud. The ratcheting mechanism on the cassette's seem much quieter than those on the freewheel.
I tought pro cyclists used cassete
The very loud freehubs that have appeared in recent years (like a bee buzzing) have mechanisms that greatly reduce the tiny fraction of a second lag time that the pawls in a regular free hub require to reposition themselves into pedaling mode from coasting mode. There are a couple of different types out there, a couple with no pawls at all. In reality I believe this microsecond delay is meaningless to anyone in reality, but racers think it gives them an edge. Others install them because they can afford them and so it’s a form of elitist snobbery, if you have the loud buzzing freehub now then then the other snobs know you’re one of them. For me it’s really funny because when I was racing in the 80’s and 99’s it was just the opposite, a loud freewheel was a sign of a s squidly know nothing amateur, and it was cool to have a smooth quiet freewheel.
The only scenario high point of engagement hubs make a real difference is in slow technical riding and climbing. Like rock or root gardens where pedal strike is common. You can quickly ratchet the cranks to avoid pedal strike or banging your feet into obstacles.
To most riders , loud hubs are just a status symbol. They're usually more expensive, but only sometimes better engineered. High POE may allow a stronger engagement, but 3 pawl drivers hold up fine for most average riders. I love my Dura Ace, XTR and XT hubs. Shimano's inexpensive hubs are the best value going, but ONLY if you take care of your hubs and overhaul whenever they're slightly contaminated.
If you're actually pedaling to make the bike move along, POE doesn't make any difference until you're pedaling really hard. I've been riding hard, racing, single speeding and fixed gearing for decades. I can put power down. Ive never had a hub driver or freewheel fail as long as I overhauled my 'old junk' regularly.
Hub drivers can become lots louder when theyre neglected, the driver lube is old or dried out. That's called neglect. Some dummies remove lube to make their hubs louder. That's idiotic.
Ive used entry level hubs to highest end hubs on the market.(Chris King) That said I'm a retired machinist, mechanical inspector and appreciate fine engineering and high end manufacturing. I used a bunch of different nice Shimano hubs, 45 year old Campy's, old DT Hugi and almost as old Chris King. Those are mostly what I'd recommend in my wheel building business. The best thing about truly well engineered hubs is bearing quality and manufacturing excellence. All my old stuff lasts because I take care of it. I'm a shop mechanic and wheel builder. My Chris Kings have never needed new bearings in over 25 years of hard riding. There's over 100000 miles ridden on them. Chris King is the only company that makes their own surgical quality bearings, even the balls. You can overhaul these bearings. They're very expensive, best sealed on the market and you don't throw them away. The CK Ring Drive is ingenious in its ultra high stength and fool proof design. Ive precision measured all the interference fit tolerances and they're well within engineering standards of mil spec quality. I used to build hardware like this for the aerospace and medical industries. For serious riders who ride lots of hard, dirty miles, they're a good investment. We're not all snobs because we like nice stuff. I fix commuters bikes as well as homeless people's bikes. I truly want to serve my customers who rely on their bicycles. To keep them rolling along....That's my job.
For casual riders, expensive wheels are probably excessive and expensive.
@@rollinrat4850 interesting read. been commuting on bike full time for over a decade but only recently getting into maintenence. going to have to check out the brands you mention
RJ, my man. I need some help. I got a 2011 Centurion Backfire M4 which is a 7 speed freewheel. I am thinking about getting new wheels for it since I ride it a lot and thought about getting a wheel with the cassete hub. Now i only wonder if I could possibly fit an 8 speed cassete because cassete cogs are closer together than the freewheel is. I am just wondering if the frame could fit it. Also if the Shimano Acera derailer can work with it. Just looking to increase the gear ratio so I will also change the front sprocket to something bigger to get more speed
Depends. Measure the hub spacing to see if an 8 speed wheel will fit. www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html
Thanks for the link. Just needed some kind of guide
i think it should, did you try?
great video I finally understand I have a screw on freewheel and now know which removal tool to order..thanks.
thank you RJ I actually learned something from this
Hello Rj, Thanks for this very clear explanation about cassettes and freewheel. I was wondering, i built a Mtb roadbike conversion. My frame is An generic 26er frame and the rest of the components are from a roadbike. I was wondering if i can fit a cassette type mtb hubs on my roadbike wheelset 700x32c. My current setup is 7sshimano cogs. My frame seems to have a lot of clearance for an mtb hubs. Thank you!
I think this is what you want. In my opinion not worth it. czcams.com/video/C7lR3R0pOZ8/video.html
"a variety of different flavors" i thought they all tasted like metal..
steel taste better than alu
But steel has greater side effects than alu
Mint flavored metal, strawberry flavor metal, chocolate flavor metal, vanilla flavored metal.
The flavor comes from the chain oil (in other words : the sauce).
very helpful and well explained, thanks for the video
Brilliant. Best explanation of CZcams
In my country we're calling Freewheels "thread-type" for years.
"Uy tignan mo 'to Trinx 29er okay sana kaso thread-type"
Correct me if I'm wrong, fellow Filipinos
haha nalito din ako sa title nito boss. "threadtype vs cassette type" sana
ang natutunan ko sa mga casette, hindi thread, parang gear, tapos ang freewheel, may notches
makes me feel like I'm in a real life version of The Jetsons cogs and gears what a nightmare
Spacely Sprockets.
Amazing teacher and well made video
Good videos, always just what I need to know re-bikes. Keep going and I will watch.
What the hell does freewheel mean??????????
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freewheel
The term refers to the fact that it ratchets and that when you stop peddling it spins.
jesus christ did someone shoot up your schools and took your internet away? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spline_(mechanical)
You never explained what the real difference was - meaning WHY are there two designs that do the same thing. Because the answer to that would be what people need to know.
EXCELLENT!!! THANKS RJ THE BIKE GUY
Excellent explanation , thank you...
great knowledge thanks for sharing. I really like you videos keep up the good work
Great explanation. Thank you
Good video..I am now an expert on cassettes and free wheels
Thanks for the vid, that helped me with my old style campagnolo hub & freewheel. Just bought the two ear tool to remove it from the hub. I have a bent rim to swap out with an Araya doaner wheel assembly which BTW has the uni-glide cassette and I used a flat drift and kept hammering the smallest cog until it loosened up. I'm glad you showed all the different styles.
czcams.com/video/1zWYLb2RMPA/video.html
Dude you need to get some chain whips too
so many years in cycling and never realized that my commuting bike have different system of cogs than my mtb, believed that its just different model, not a different type, thank you sir!
Thank you for sharing this great video!
Thank you for your helpful videos. You are the best! 💖💖💖
Excellent explanation!
I've been wondering why the bike shop's owner (that I've usually went to) gave me this weird smile all the time...
Now i've known.
Been referring my rear wheel as a 'freewheel' all the time....
:D
Thanks for the lengthy explanation, very worth it...
good explanation. in my old racing days we had freewheels 5 gears. now cassette of course. subscribed
This guy is so clean with the explanations
Thanks for the clear explanation.
1980 Gios Torino Super Record with first generation Campagnolo Athena group, circa 1989-1991. SunTour Pro Compe freewheel 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 on Campagnolo Super Record hubs and 42-53 chain rings. Brake levers are for braking, and the shift levers are rightly placed on the down tube.
Steel frames forever!
I had Athena Hubs, they were wonderful.
Very good. Thank you for the information. It was useful.
Thanks R.J. answered another question that I was thinking about.🙂 FanTom USA
Thanks for the video that helped me out a lot and saved me some Wong’s 👍👍👍👍
Thanks, another interesting and informative video! 👍
Great video RJ thanks
Very interesting. Thank you!
Very helpful. Thank you
great info! thank you.
Learned something today. Thanks