Extremely well done and comprehensive video, you covered a lot of my questions I had about the weird cure inhibition issues that could come up. I use water washable resin and SO FAR making sure I use a really strong UV varnish (I use montana satin varnish, but I've even used gloss to fill out some layer lines and it really works! Especially if I let it fully dry or use a heater nearby [AFTER I spray and I give the coat 20 - 30 to dry a bit ... no spraying near the heat] to VERY LIGHTLY dry the paint..) and ensuring the coating is dry has helped me not have any issues with silicone not curing to my prints. I'd reached that conclusion with a few other videos but this was SUCH a good round up of tests and techniques, thank you!
hi, i'm using water washable resin too and has been having trouble cure the silicone with my current varnish....there're too many montana varnishes on Amazon, do you mind telling me the specific name of the one that worked for you? Thanks a lot!
Brilliant! I had not noticed the ability of the sweep tool (you mentioned Loft tool at 3:38. It's the sweep tool for those watching) to modify the taper. (****edited It's actually a feature of both. Dombi3D was right on point! ***) Thank YOU! Geesh....that saved me a ton of time when working with text.
Very good video! Thanks! A tip from me - when you use ultrasonic just put your print to box or jar with isopropanol and then go to ultrasonic ;) You will always have clean machine. You can use more than one box, for example - for first, dirty cleaning and for second round :) These boxes are also good for iso cleaning, store them on sunlight.
Great tutorial! I'm currently doing some of my own experiments to see what will prevent cure inhibition with platinum cure silicone, mostly focusing on how fresh the print is and how long it's uv post-cured. I understand that "inhibit-x" is Naphtha, according to the label, so I'm not sure exactly what it's doing, encouraging/accelerating the silicone cure or doing something to the resin.
@@Dombi3D I have used the inhibitX and it works, elegoo gray water washable. Soak part overnight and use thin coat of mold release. :) Am going to try dipping the resin mold in airbrush primer paint (thin primer paint) and see if that works without losing the detail I need. I don't have the perfect formula yet but working on it.
Fantastic tutorial! Could you put some links and descriptions of the tools you used in the video? For example 3D printer model, ultrasonic cleaner, UV chamber? Thanks in advance!
Smooth-On sells a rather expensive but effective coating called Inhibit-X that prevents curing inhibition, and it is very thin so you don't have to worry about loss of detail.
In the datasheet of Mold-Star stays: "Note: This product will not cure against surfaces containing sulfur, even when sealed." And another hint: "Even with a sealer, Mold Star™ silicones will not cure against surfaces containing sulfur." I don't know if it is true for Inhibit-X or not. Do you have good experience with these combination (Mold-Star silicone, Resin 3D print, Inhibit-X)? Source: www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-star-15-slow/
@@Dombi3D I mostly use Sorta Clear 12, but I have had success with Mold Star 20T, using the Inhibit-X product. I believe it is effective for all platinum cure silicones. Technically, I don't think it is a sealer. Rather, it is a curing accelerant for the silicone. Just a heads up, if you decide to try it, they recommend using a mold release on top of the Inhibit-X(like Ease Release 200), as the silicone can bond to Inhibit-X coated surfaces.
Hey @Dombi3D , i have an issue with my moldmaking, it seems that the seilicon rubber is not curring where it contacts the resin rint, the silicon contains hexachloroplatinic acid, could it be that those two do not go well together? i used LM Kreativ silicon, with sunlu polymere resin.
I am not a chemist but the platinic sounds like platinum which is not working with resins as I demonstrated in the video. You need a tin-cure silicon or some varnish layer to avoid this problem
i will buy another silicon ok amazon to try it out, i will avoid any platinic platinum stuff :) actualy it looks very similar to your example, thanks a lot for your help,
I haven't tried it before but seems like a good alternative. Don't know how thick that material is and how much details do you loose compered to a spray coating, but give it a try on a small piece and let us know the results.
Hello from Germany, can you please use open source like libre office instead of Excel? Because not everyone has bought Excel. I use 90% Linux Fedora. Libre office is platform independent. Thank you very much.
Because the gold melting temperature is a little over 1000 °C and this molding silicone max working temperature regarding its datasheet is 200-240 °C I don't think that it would work with gold. If you use some high temp silicone maybe!
Extremely well done and comprehensive video, you covered a lot of my questions I had about the weird cure inhibition issues that could come up. I use water washable resin and SO FAR making sure I use a really strong UV varnish (I use montana satin varnish, but I've even used gloss to fill out some layer lines and it really works! Especially if I let it fully dry or use a heater nearby [AFTER I spray and I give the coat 20 - 30 to dry a bit ... no spraying near the heat] to VERY LIGHTLY dry the paint..) and ensuring the coating is dry has helped me not have any issues with silicone not curing to my prints. I'd reached that conclusion with a few other videos but this was SUCH a good round up of tests and techniques, thank you!
hi, i'm using water washable resin too and has been having trouble cure the silicone with my current varnish....there're too many montana varnishes on Amazon, do you mind telling me the specific name of the one that worked for you? Thanks a lot!
Brilliant! I had not noticed the ability of the sweep tool (you mentioned Loft tool at 3:38. It's the sweep tool for those watching) to modify the taper. (****edited It's actually a feature of both. Dombi3D was right on point! ***)
Thank YOU!
Geesh....that saved me a ton of time when working with text.
Thanks so much for the tutorial!
It is hard to find this content on CZcams.
Very good video! Thanks! A tip from me - when you use ultrasonic just put your print to box or jar with isopropanol and then go to ultrasonic ;) You will always have clean machine. You can use more than one box, for example - for first, dirty cleaning and for second round :) These boxes are also good for iso cleaning, store them on sunlight.
Resin printing here i come!
Great tutorial! I'm currently doing some of my own experiments to see what will prevent cure inhibition with platinum cure silicone, mostly focusing on how fresh the print is and how long it's uv post-cured. I understand that "inhibit-x" is Naphtha, according to the label, so I'm not sure exactly what it's doing, encouraging/accelerating the silicone cure or doing something to the resin.
I have never tried inhibit-x, would be interesting to know, please share your results afterwards so we can learn from your experiments.
@@Dombi3D I have used the inhibitX and it works, elegoo gray water washable. Soak part overnight and use thin coat of mold release. :) Am going to try dipping the resin mold in airbrush primer paint (thin primer paint) and see if that works without losing the detail I need. I don't have the perfect formula yet but working on it.
It's not just Naphtha. That's just the only dangerous chemical that's required to be listed in the safety datasheet.
Fantastic tutorial! Could you put some links and descriptions of the tools you used in the video? For example 3D printer model, ultrasonic cleaner, UV chamber? Thanks in advance!
Thanks! I've added everything :)
Smooth-On sells a rather expensive but effective coating called Inhibit-X that prevents curing inhibition, and it is very thin so you don't have to worry about loss of detail.
In the datasheet of Mold-Star stays: "Note: This product will not cure against surfaces containing sulfur, even when sealed." And another hint: "Even with a sealer, Mold Star™ silicones will not cure against surfaces containing sulfur." I don't know if it is true for Inhibit-X or not. Do you have good experience with these combination (Mold-Star silicone, Resin 3D print, Inhibit-X)?
Source:
www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-star-15-slow/
@@Dombi3D I mostly use Sorta Clear 12, but I have had success with Mold Star 20T, using the Inhibit-X product. I believe it is effective for all platinum cure silicones. Technically, I don't think it is a sealer. Rather, it is a curing accelerant for the silicone. Just a heads up, if you decide to try it, they recommend using a mold release on top of the Inhibit-X(like Ease Release 200), as the silicone can bond to Inhibit-X coated surfaces.
Hey @Dombi3D , i have an issue with my moldmaking, it seems that the seilicon rubber is not curring where it contacts the resin rint, the silicon contains hexachloroplatinic acid, could it be that those two do not go well together? i used LM Kreativ silicon, with sunlu polymere resin.
I am not a chemist but the platinic sounds like platinum which is not working with resins as I demonstrated in the video. You need a tin-cure silicon or some varnish layer to avoid this problem
i will buy another silicon ok amazon to try it out, i will avoid any platinic platinum stuff :) actualy it looks very similar to your example, thanks a lot for your help,
Thanks for this video, very helpful! How long is the drying time for the marabu varnish?
It depends on the amount, but as I remember for 2 thin layers the surface was not tacky after 30 minutes in room temperature.
Very informative 👍👍👍👍
Can I use modge podge to seal my piece? I'm trying to avoid a spray since I can't really go outside to spray where I live. Thanks.
I haven't tried it before but seems like a good alternative. Don't know how thick that material is and how much details do you loose compered to a spray coating, but give it a try on a small piece and let us know the results.
Skip to 6:58 for actual info
One quick question: did you spray the sealer on the oomoo one, or did oomoo cure fine without spray sealer on the resin?
Oomoo was fine without the sealer.
@@Dombi3D Thank you so much!!
Hey man, what the liquid in the ultrasonic you use to clean the print ? thanks btw
Monocure Resinaway
@@Dombi3D Try the elegoo water washable. Rinse in regular water and then water boiled in a kettle. I use hot RO water, then compressed air. : )
Hello from Germany,
can you please use open source like libre office instead of Excel?
Because not everyone has bought Excel. I use 90% Linux Fedora. Libre office is platform independent.
Thank you very much.
Could I use gold to cast ?
Because the gold melting temperature is a little over 1000 °C and this molding silicone max working temperature regarding its datasheet is 200-240 °C I don't think that it would work with gold. If you use some high temp silicone maybe!
@@Dombi3D thank you so much for the information