2005 Chrysler T&C Intake Manifold & Valve Cover Gaskets
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2017
- 2005 Chrysler T&C - Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets along with Upper and Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. Shows the removal of the windshield wiper cowl. Trouble changing the PCV valve. New spark plugs and plug wires. 3.8L
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DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE:
a OPTIONAL-Remove Cowl and windshield wiper motor assembly from fire wall (If replacing valve cover gaskets)
b Remove the windshield wiper arms using a puller. Note angle and which one is "on top"
c Disconnect the plug for the wiper motor
d Disconnect the Windshield Washer Fluid tube going into the cowl
e Loosen the two clamps holding the two drain tubes to the wiper motor assembly
f Turn the two Philips head "locks" 90 degrees. These lock the cowl trim to the wiper motor assembly
g Remove the six T20 torx screws from the cowl trim over the wiper motor assembly
h Remove the cowl trim piece
i Remove the four 10mm nuts from studs holding the straps on the upper side of the wiper motor assembly
j Remove the four 13mm bolts holding the wiper motor assembly to the firewall
k Remove the wiper motor assembly
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1 Remove the negative battery terminal
2 Drain the cooling system - About a gallon will work. You can syphon out of the radiator
3 Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor
4 Remove the Intake air tube
5 Remove the air filter housing and breather tube to front valve cover
6 Remove the throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle body (They both come out the slot to the front)
7 Remove the Bracket holding the throttle and cruise control cables to the upper intake manifold
8 Remove the throttle and cruise control cables from the plastic clip attached to the power steering reservoir
9 Disconnect the Idle Air Motor / (AIS) Automatic Idle Speed
10 Disconnect the Throttle Position sensor (Does not have a Red lock tab)
11 Remove the vacuum hose from the throttle body - Vapor Purge Solenoid (~3/8" OD)
12 Disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP)
13 Remove the PCV hose (or cut)
14 Disconnect the Power Brake Booster vacuum hose from the upper intake manifold (~1/2" OD)
15 Disconnect the Vacuum Leak Detector vacuum hose from the intake manifold (~1/8" OD)
16 Optional-Drain the power steering reservoir
17 Optional-Remove the power steering hoses from the power steering fluid reservoir and plug the hoses
18 Remove the power steering reservoir and move out of the way. Nut in back is 10mm and use 9" extension
19 Remove the EGR pipe from the upper intake manifold and the EGR valve. Save the gaskets
20 Remove the Upper Intake Manifold bolts
21 Remove the Upper Intake Manifold
22 Remove the Upper Intake Manifold gaskets
23 Plug the holes in the Lower Intake Manifold
24 Relieve fuel system pressure. At the Schrader valve
25 Disconnect the fuel line quick disconnect fitting to the fuel rail/injector assembly
26 Unplug the large electrical connector on the passenger side of the lower intake manifold (for fuel injectors)
27 Remove the spark plug wires (from the coil only unless you are replacing them, then remove completely)
28 Disconnect the electrical connector to the coil
29 Remove the coil
30 Remove the coil bracket
31 Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor (ETC). Has red lock tab on bottom
32 Remove the heater supply hose from lower intake manifold. Check the condition of the heater hoses
33 Remove the Upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing
34 Remove the Lower Intake Manifold bolts
35 Remove the Lower Intake Manifold
36 Remove the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket retaining bolts (2)
37 Remove the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket
38 Place a towel or rags in the lifter valley
39 OPTIONAL-Remove the valve covers and replace the gaskets
40 Replace the PCV valve in the back valve cover. In theory it just pulls out, but …..
41 Remove the valve cover gaskets
42 Remove the valve cover bolts and replace the O-Ring type gaskets on each bolt
43 Install the valve cover gaskets in the valve cover
44 Install the valve cover bolts into the valve cover and seat them in the valve cover gaskets
45 Install the valve covers and torque to 105 in-lbs
46 OPTIONAL-Remove the spark plugs (The rear ones are easy to get to at this point)
Pretty thorough, really has a good sense of how to fix things without loosing his cool like most mechanics, which I’ve seen throw things like tools plastic peace’s that don’t quite fit well,wrenches across the shop & have that look of frustration when things don’t go well.😡😝 props for your calm & pleasant work ethic.it’s nice to see as a retired mechanic myself.that’s the way a job should be done,would have no issues with this man working on my vehicles, I’m sure you all have heard the saying ( if you want the job done right do it your self) well I think we have all been there, & have to hope that the job is done right crossing your fingers that you won’t have to make an extra expense because of someone’s neglect & inexperience, I have to say to this man Good job,very impressed!!! Keep up the good work & thanks for the informative video.👍🏼
The large connector at the front of the engine at 33:26 clearly has a tab to squeeze where you said you could not find it. 36:10 Hint on the factory hose clamps: if you compress the tabs together to the limit, they lock together and the clamp stays open. Then once re-positioned where you want it, to close the clamp, insert a screwdriver into the slot and bend the tab slightly and it will snap back into the closed position. Thanks for taking the time to make this good video!
Your way of doing this job is the BEST way if the car is yours. Total maintenance package and you save a TON on labor. Amazing video!
Thank you sir. I done this job this weekend on my brother's 2005 T&C with 3.3 L. What I love is your detailed instructions but mostly the details on how to put it back together. Most people will say do the reverse and I have hard time remembering what goes where and how 😂. Thank you again.
Torque for the valve cover gaskets are 105 inch pounds, in a cross pattern, starting from the center out. Just did this whole job and went well (longest part is cleaning the old oil/gunk off)
This was very informative - an intimidating repair job demystified by your detailed video! Thank you, Jim.
Wow...I wish every such video displayed clearly the sequence of events in the detail you did in this video....great job, THANKS!!
Señor this is a real good video,thank you for you time.God bless you.
Awesome video very detailed i like how to took your time and didn't fast forward the video great job
Hour long videos like this are the best keep up the good footage
Thanks for posting this, very good detail!
Excellent video. Didn't skimp on any of the details. I had to do a valve cover gasket on a Nissan Xterra and it looked very intimidating like this one but when you actually get into it it's not too bad. I love how you put the bolts and nuts back on so you don't loose them.
hey, bud that was an excellent video. I was pleased with your explanations, I agree with doing things at the moment while you have gone to such effort, you definitely don't want to do it twice. You are soft-spoken and also very clear, my family and I sincerely appreciate your time and efforts. san Antonio, tx
This is good all the details. Thank you so much!!!
Love all the details. Thanks for sharing
Great job thanks for teaching me how to do it!
Here's a few things I would recommend to do...
Take dome "Sea Foam" and a toothbrush & clean the throttle body.
Aldo, flush the power steering fluid and replace with power steering fluid, not ATF. There is a difference. Overall, a good video!
Thanks!
Awesome video and i really love how your Very thorough and slowly walk us through super awesome
Lots of great info and detail on this video. BTW, the wiper arms are difficult to get off. I just purchased the $35 tool to do the job. No pry bar / block of wood could do it for me. For the wiper blades, just put a few pieces of duct tape on the windshield to mark position. It's more accurate.
For those who are removing the cowl and wiper assembly, I would suggest putting some never seize on those wiper shafts. You or someone after you, will likely be thankful you did!
No tool needed. Bring the nut above the post but don't remove. Take a hammer and pound the nut a few times while pulling on lower wiper arm. Comes right off
excellent vid thanks. might try my T&C soon
I replaced my rear valve cover gasket in less than an hour, all you need is a swivel adapter to get behind the intake manifold. The only thing that needs to be removed is the spark plug wires and PCV hose.
Don't even need to remove spark plug wires. Swivel head and 8mm gear wrench this guy was over thinking it lol
Do a video about it please
Check your fuel trims. You may have a leak at the intake. If so, remove & replace the gaskets. Use propane or water to search for a leak.
I replaced the valve cover gaskets, PVC valve and PCV hose as part of replacing the intake manifold gasket, so you are comparing apples and oranges.
Excellent video sir. Well done. I am in the process of trouble shooting rough idle and misfire in cylinder number 3. Hopefully I don’t have to go far as you did. If I have to, I am ready.
I had a rough idle and a misfire in cylinder number four. After replacing the spark plug and spark plug wire and no noticeable difference, I replaced the ignition coil and that corrected both symtoms. How did you solve your rough idle and misfire???
this is a very well done, very informative video. thank you for doing it
Great detail, photo's and video. I'm with you on the "having enough room" thing. Besides, it's so easy to change out the plugs, fuel injectors, oxygen sensor, pcv valve etc. Curious, how long did this job take you? If you had to do it over, would you do anything different? if yes, why? Are you happy with the felpro parts? I'll be watching this over and over before I do the same.
Many thanks.
Thanks for making the video , I have one that blew the head gaskets ,
Very well done with concise explanations. Thank you Sir! Not looking forward to it. Oh geez!
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شكرا جزيلاً للمعلومات المفيدة
👍🏼👍🏼
🌼🌼
Excellent video. Thank you very much 👍🏼👍🏼
It's a great job.
Thanks for the useful information.
👍🏼👍🏼🌼🌼
Very nice explanation like a teacher
wonderful video and great camera work.
very good and detailed video brother...muchas gracias SEŃOR......
Excellent video thanks for sharing.
very nice show!!! for newbies and green people !!! Good Job!
Thanks for the photo at 4:07 - the IAC and air intake temp sensor cables may be the same type of connector and I was not positive which one went where.
Muchas gracias amigo. Thank you so much.
Excellent video!
When you said you applied some silicone on the coolant openings when reapplying the lower manifold gasket, what product exactly did you use? Thank you so very much this tutorial is one of the best ever on youtube!!!
شكراً للمعلومات المفيدة
🌼🌼🌼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good work 👏👏👏
Excellent video. Just what I was looking for, both the valve cover seals and the windchill wiper unit. I did not know about the intake seal. I will do al, plus the injector O-ring. Might as well. Thank you for your time doing this video, you make this impressive job easier to undertake.
Love how describe details
Awesome 👏 video brother thx
Mon O tone however extremely helpful
The steering resovior has a screen filter it gets plugged from the top. Take it off and spray a ton of brake cleaner from the bottom. Shake it really good and repeat a few times. You'll see how much cleaner the screen is. Eventually that filter starves the pump and you get noise. Or you can get a new one but it's cheap and easy to clean.
I have been having so many issues with my 3.3L I am no mechanic, but my finances give me no other choice. I have enough sense to jump in and figure out most problems but apparently around 31:20 where you are talking about the quick connect I had pushed mine in thinking it was how you closed/sealed it. Sure enough I was wrong lol! Any idea what that part is I can't find a replacement online as I would like to replace just about everything you have in this video just to take care of all my major issues. I smell a lot of fuel while running and get between 4-8mpg city and 10-15 highway if I am lucky.
PVC fitting in the back seems to be super loose so that was my first thought, but after watching the video I pulled the quick connect out instead of pushed in like I had it and that already seems to fix a lot of my fuel efficiency (the real test is my long drives tomorrow). I ordered a coil pack, plugs, wires , injectors, some dielectric gel, gasket sealant and a pvc valve/hose to change out this sunday on my day off!
I have already replaced my TPS and EGR vavle thinking those were the issues due to engine error messages and the way it drove. Thinking I will change the O2 sensors too while its open just because unless I can get away with mass air flow sensor cleaner? I see the one o2 sensor in the video early on where is the 2nd one located? my apologies if I missed it I only got about 45 minutes in so far will watch the rest tomorrow!
I have a 2004 grand caravan. After oil change+lucas oil treatment i have oil leaking at the rear exhaust manifold dripping onto water pump line. Used dye to find leak. Dye only shows up at exhaust manifold, not from valve cover gasket. Ideas?
Man that engine is clean.
I have owned it since it was new and do a good job of changing the oil and filter.
Also, the P/S reservoir has a screen at the bottom. When dirty, it slows the return to the pump & gets noisy. Clean it if you can, or replace the reservoir.
Awesome 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Good job
MASTER MECHANIC
This is a great video. I don't know how much of this I can do myself, but I have a 2005 TnC with 260k miles, that's leaking oil around both valve covers as well as upper and lower manifold. Chrysler dealer wants 3600.00 (Labor Post Covid is 194.00/hr...wtf ? ) just to replace those which there's no way I"m going to pay. I may try to tackle this myself, I don't know though lol.
When replacing the PCV valve is much easier if you buy a new Grommet that goes in the valve cover. I have hard of folks that actually brake the plastic valve cover when trying to removed the valve.
I have a 2001 town and country 3.8 I just did this job and change the spark plugs. Did the intake parts to now it wont start getting a code p1684
Once you have the upper cowl removed, the wiper transmission is exposed. Good time to lube the pivots and stop them from sqeaking or wearing.
If you even have a shop I would love to learn from you. I'm just as curious about my van like yourself. Who esle would take better care at fixing your stuff then yourself. Thank you sir,
question. Where would all the ground wire be in this type if van? Like locations, Ground chassis? And how many? I think I have 1 that's corroded and I'm trying to find all of them to clean them up. Thank you for your video.
You'll still get debris with using paper towels I used duct tape and taped them close that way I didnt have to worry about paper towels
if you have enough space to work I think that you can do a better job. So as you said: it is better to take things away from your work path like the wipers system assembly case
I got the pcv valve (47' 10") out of my 3.8L 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan valve cover by inserting a piece of metal rod into the valve, clamping it into a vise and twisting / turning / rocking from side to side and the valve popped out.
El filtro del clima viene abajo el copiloto, pero viene sellado, dónde lo tiene grand Caravan 2005?
Thank you 🌼🌼🌼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Use some dialect grease on those new plug wires. They'll come off easy next time.
Awesome job thank you so much for all the detail. The only thing I wish is that you would have went in there and showing us how you cleaned the valves off if you even end up doing that but I don't think I'm going to take the intake manifold off since the gasket is metal I don't think that it's going to be the thing that's leaking oil in my vehicle I know my valve cover gaskets are leaking massive oil. So I'm impressed with how clean your engine is looking compared to my entire engine is caked with oil. Do you still recommend changing that metal gasket? I just can't imagine that leaking unless it's bent?
If you're just leaking oil you can probably get away with just changing the valve cover gaskets and leaving the intake manifold gasket alone, but if you are leaking antifreeze then you need to do the intake manifold gasket as well. I believe the felpro metal gasket has a bit of silicone around the "water" ports, and I recommend a good cleaning and a small amount of gasket maker around them as well. Also need some gasket maker in the corners where the block meets the cylinder heads. I probably took the valve covers somewhere and used a solvent tank to clean them, but some hard work at home will also work.
I've sprayed the warm engine with de-greaser and brake cleaner, and then carefully sprayed it off at the car wash a few times over the years.
@@jimdandy6472 thank you for the response, I'm not leaking anti-freeze so for the moment I'm just going to change the valve cover gaskets
question: if you wanted to do the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket replacement as two separate jobs, would it be easier to do the valve cover gaskets first or the intake manifold gasket first ?
Being honest, it would be easier to do both at the same occasion. Too much of a hassle to do both separately
Do it once do it right’ great job! THANKS! for the video :)’
Left over bolt yet another example of what happens when "the pros" work on your stuff.
Hey brother you wouldn't know where I can find a video of someone changing the lifters on this vehicle if so I would greatly appreciate a link
The big black plastic tubes drain the rain water away from the engine.
Great!!!!!
Interesting close up of the coolant port. Mine started weeping at the front corners at about 195K. Probably at the rear but I couldn't see. I added a small amount of stop leak and it fixed it. But it looks like a little corrosion on the head is the real issue. Good to know.
Hello what's that little hose connected to the intake manifold on the right side? Mine broke in half
Look at all of that corrosion and rust!
The magical tool of a harbor freight $9 Electric heat gun should do the trick.
That PCV should pull out like butter with a little bit of heat on that stiff rubber.
That heat gun save me a lot of time removing my windshield without a lot of mess and the melted sealer stayed soft for hours. Removal and installation was fast.
If you ever break your oil dipstick off of the engine and you have a portion of the yellow piece stuck in the tube, drill and screw in a little screw, dead center of the yellow broken piece, and use the heat gun to apply the Heat. That broken piece of the dipstick should pull out like butter.
... Thanks for the "heated" PCV valve tip ! ...
excelllent idea. I did the valve cover gaskets thinking that was my leak, but that was as far as i went. anyway broke the pvc trying to remove it. i think i jbwelded it back together
@@teknowil Often the PCV valve does not come out as easy as some people think, or they just get lucky, or somebody has already replaced it before.
A heat gun may melt the plastic valve cover. In your case the valve cover broke. For this job "slow & steady wins the race" more times than not. The dealer sells the valve cover which includes the new PCV valve. Also get the new PCV valve hose as the old one is likely hard as a rock.
im gonna try this. I got an oil leak right on top of the timing chain cover. I assumed it was the valve cover gaskets. I replaced them and the leak still persists.
Front main seal maybe?
i need to replace my valve cover gaskets and garage said i have to do intake gaskets as well - I have no coolant leaks and the van runs fine so why would I need to do this? Is it just a matter of access to the valve covers?
Probably because it's near impossible to get the rear valve cover out without removing the intake manifold, or removing the wiper cowl. It's easier to charge for replacing the intake manifold gaskets, and this is a part that tends to fail on these engines. You will want to replace the PCV valve as well, especially if it's the push in kind vs. threaded.
No u can change valve cover without changing manifold gasket.
@@genebrauer2319 can you post your video?? I would like to see.
@@MrFreshchico an 8mm socket on a 1/4 swivel will give you enough access to remove the valve cover bolts. I've done several of these without taking off the intake assembly.
@8:27 You so silly. @17:07 Suddenly it's a whole new world inside there. Wow. I can see stuff now.
Good video, you should correct the topic this work apply for dodge caravan too(2001-2007).
This applies to several makes and models. When I upload a video I typically add key words like "Caravan" to help people find the videos.
✌✌🇵🇱🇵🇱🇺🇲🇺🇲 jesteś wielki
I meant cylinder number two
Zawór PCV co ile powinno się wymienić?????
SINCE IM ALREADY IN THERE SHOULD I GO AHEAD AND REPLACE THE HEAD GASKETS ? 215,000 MILES ON A 3.3L
That's a personal decision. These are cast iron heads/engine (vs aluminum heads) and I have not heard about any head gasket issues, so in my opinion no, as it's spending more time and money on something that's not broke, and may outlast the trany, car accident, etc. on a $2,000 van.
ARE THESE ISOLATED VALVE COVERS
My van has 248K runs great but needs those leaky gaskets replaced.
Got my rear valve cover off on my 3.8 Grand Caravan without taking off the intake or wiper cover. It. Was. Horrible. 😂
The east way is to just man up and do the rear without messing with anything else…if it ain’t broke…
What was the mileage on this van and do you still have it
Currently the van has about 150k. At the time of this video it probably had about 125k. Yes, I still have it.
my intke gasket is RED.. not blue but they are from fel-pro
I would double dare you to try this project on my rusted out 2006 Town and Country. All of these fair weather vehicles. Just do this and just do that and just do this. What a joke.
59:25 there is a Hole did you see that ? big hole to the right
I think that is an oil hole.
I don't understand why everybody does this for plugs and wires. The only piece I remove is the pcv hose. I have no problem getting behind the engine.
Note the video is for Intake Manifold & Valve Cover Gaskets Replacement. Spark plugs was just a side issue, and so was the PCV valve. I have also changed the spark plugs w/o removing much, but it was a PITA, especially for an older person.
Just for those that want too know.. You can replace the Lifters once that pan is removed...As this is the 3.8..The Pentastar 3.6 is a bitch. You have to remove the heads.
I wonder how much would this job cost to do at the shop rather than yourself?
Aznariy Ramazanov north of 600.
WELP...Let me order a windshield wiper puller! GEEZE!! So NOT looking forward to it...
I'd watch this video about removing the wiper cowl assembly czcams.com/video/9EkRCoOTFkE/video.html
I use a battery terminal lifter which is pretty much the same thing
Don't use champion plugs they are junk. Within a very short time my champion plugs were misfiring. Replaced them and no problems since.
Ive been wrenching on vehicles for 30 years seems like champions never got better ..wth are ppl still buying them
Intake assembly removal not required if you know what you're doing. Same vehicle, replaced valve cover gaskets, plugs, and wires in under 2 hours start to finish.
might be the case. but as long as you are there might as well change it. It turns out the lower intake gasket was my oil leak , Im going to have to do this again...however i waited 2 years...lol
After changing Toyota Avalon valve covers this thing looks like a breeze. Lol
Update: You don't have to take the wiper assembly out there's plenty of room, after you take upper intake off. Don't have to take lower intake off either. Don't fool around with the fuel rail either. Also you can keep the throttle body hooked to the intake and just move it to the side. This guys making it way harder than it is. It was a piece of 🍰. Took me 3hrs, with multiple breaks.
I was thinking he really made this look Way to hard
Service was changing valve cover AND intake gaskets. That's why he removed the lower intake
@guitartur Fair enough but I don't think it's necessary to do just because your "there". Could just keep moving down and do the head gaskets too if you really wanted. Lol
I would have removed the wiper cowl first...
Those red safety locks are awful and totally unnecessary. Its hard enough to undo the regular locking mechanism there's no way its ever coming undone on its own. As i do work on my van I toss those clips.