Rikon 10 326 Review
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- After several months of working with this saw, I have come up with some of the things that I love and some of the things that I don't love so much about this unit. So with that being said, this week's show brings us a review of the Rikon, 10-326 14" band saw. I hope you enjoy the show.
Please don't forget to like and and subscribe and as always, thanks for tuning in.
*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line.😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.😎😭*
Stainless steel rod is a hard metal to cut. That being said, any bandsaw would be capable of cutting it as long as you had the correct blade for the job installed in your saw. You need a metal cutting blade of the correct length for the bandsaw that you are using. This particular band saw comes equipped with a wood cutting blade so you would have to install an after market blade for cutting metal. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great review! Thanks for taking the time to make this, it's very helpful. Looks like an amazing bandsaw. I want one now!
Glad that you enjoyed the show. I hope that someday you do get one of these. I have had no problems at all with this one and others have chimed in with the same results. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I literally just assembled one of these in my basement last night. Torn between this and the Laguna 1412. I didn't finish until close to midnight but did manage to do one test cut. Wow. Cuts like a dream. Stable, smooth, powerful, controlled. Very happy so far. My initial impressions were good. One thing I did learn recently is that not all blades come out the exact same length, that's why tension scales will never work. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and your well done and thorough video.
You're very welcome Jonathan. I'm glad to hear that you like your new saw so far. Personally, I don't even know why manufacturers put the tensioning gauge on there. I can't imagine a newbie woodworker using the tensioning scale and trying to make a cut. It would be a disaster. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate it.
What a great review!! Thanks, Kenny, for taking the time and effort, of making this review. It definitely influenced my decision of which saw to purchase, in fact, changed my mind from original decision. Brought up a lot of great points, and I'm glad I saw your video before I made my purchase. Really appreciate your real world objectivity. One may not agree with all your observations (though I found that I agreed with all of them), but that's the idea. Well done, sir. Thanks again!
You're very welcome. I hope that you are happy with your decision and that your new bandsaw gives you many years of great and trouble free use. Thanks for the kind words on the review and for tuning in to the show.
Hey, thanks for the review. It really helped with my decision on purchasing this machine. Can't wait for it to get here.
You're very welcome. If you haven't already, you may want to check out my assembly video and my setup video for this machine. It may help you when you saw arrive. Glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Assembly video link. czcams.com/video/gpLuv3ElaBA/video.html
Setup video link. czcams.com/video/noA-G1CSBc8/video.html
I also did a show on blade changes as some folks were having issues going from a larger blade to a smaller one. Here's the link.
czcams.com/video/H-kM2piyZsA/video.html
Your videos regarding the Rikon 10-326 have been very well done and honest. I've wanted a good band saw for a couple years now so I purchased the 10-326 for myself about 3 months ago. However, due to the lockdown for virus epidemic I haven't been able get possession of it until yesterday. I finished assembly about an hour ago and now I'm ready to put it through some trials for myself. I just wanted to thank you for the videos you put out. They only supported my initial assessment and opinion of the saw also. Thanks. Stay safe...stay well!
Thank you very much for your kind words on the program Ron. I do my best to produce a quality show that will be enjoyed by those who view it. Holding down a full time job and producing two shows a week, can be a challenge and it does eat up a lot of time, but receiving comments such as your's, makes it worth every second that I put into it. Thank you so much for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your kind words. It's very much appreciated sir.
Excellent video this saw has exactly what I have been looking for especially the 13 inch re saw capacity compared to other saws that I have researched that require the installation of an additional riser block to raise the upper wheel to give you more resaw capacity. Also like the fact that I can purchase it locally at a Lee Valley store , Your review is much appreciated I do hope you continue with your channel as I am a new subscriber and looking forward to more videos.
Thanks for the subscription Jamie. I hope that you will continue to like the channel. Friday's episodes are the woodworking portion of the show while Tuesday's episodes can be pretty much about anything. Wood, metal, tools, etc. Feel free to ask whatever questions come to mind. Thanks for tuning in
Nice thorough review. And thanks for putting the camera on each part of the machine as you reviewed various features.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you enjoyed the review. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. It is very much appreciated.
Thanks again for these posts ... helpful and straight to the point. I see where you are coming from on the 120/240vac issue. Glad to hear that you had enough torque at 120. I'll keep an eye on motor temperature.
Glad that you liked the show Mike. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's truly appreciated.
Thanks for the three videos about the 10-326.I have already chosen to buy this one. All the reviews are great. Now it come with an optional DVR motor, for me it a no brained, metal, wood, plastic. I can do it all.
You're very welcome Corey. I hope that you enjoy your new saw as much as I have been enjoying mine. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the excellent review. It's thorough and the camera work is great. We are interested in upgrading from our entry level Craftex band saw and this appears to have the power and features to make it a logical choice.
I replaced my large Craftex band saw with this unit John and I haven't regretted it for a moment. It's a pretty slick unit that has served me well so far. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi...Thanks for the review and the previous comments about the Rikon 10-326 (put it together)
I'm about to buy one at Lee Valley in Victoria, BC.
Charles
Good luck with your new saw Charles. I'm sure that you will be very happy with it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Awesome review and didn’t know you were an electrician! I recently applied to take our inside wireman aptitude test. Keep up the woodworking your vids are great!
Good luck on the test. I hope you are successful at it. It's a great trade and one that I have enjoyed working in for a very long time. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate it.
Solid review, picking up one of these from Busybee and your review helped a ton. Thanks
You're very welcome. Glad I could help. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks Kenny, I have been on the fence about which saw at this scale or platfom to buy. you have helped me make my mind up I'm sold this is the one for me . I'm sure you have seen all the brands out there . thanks again
I have had this saw for quite a few years now and have been happy with its performance since day one. I am still happy with it. Good luck with your new saw and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great review, very helpful. Thanks.
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
A great review by you Kenny thank you.
You're very welcome Raymond. Thanks for tuning in.
In Europe a similar Saw they explain the button on the fence not for blade drift adaptation but for leveling the fence 100% parallel to the blade. Very nice review thank you for this.
It can be used for either function Caecilius. I've never put very much faith in squaring the fence to the blade due to blade drift. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
Great review thanks! I think this will be my next purchase.
I'm glad that you found my review helpful Sean. After reading your comment on the assembly video I was going to point you in the direction of the review but I see that you didn't need my guidance. You found the show on your own. The offer still stands that if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
By far the best review of a bandsaw I’ve seen on YT, great work! I agree with a few others here that your 3 niggles are not “core functionality” … i.e. about how it CUTS … so to me they’re half a point each and it’s an 8.5/10 machine. Well done for explaining your scoring and gripes so clearly, makes it easy for me to score my own way 😁
Glad that you liked the review Andy. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show.
Hey Kenny, I'm the proud owner of the 10-3O6. I love it. I had the 10" Delta for 14 years, and it finally died. The way this Rikon is made, it should last me twice that. Great video as always. Have a Groovy day.
I'm hoping to get many good years from this saw. I hope your lasts a good long tine as well. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great very thorough review. Thanx
You're very welcome. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in.
Good honest review. I was hoping to see it re-save the full capacity with white oak, rock maple, or similarly hard wood, and would ask if you do anything like that to maybe do a review of re-saving. Thanks for your time.
All of the projects made in my shop start off with rough cut stock so I have done quite a bit of re-saw with this unit. The most I have done at this point is approximately 8" walnut, oak, maple, poplar, cherry and mahogany. I only go as far as 8" because that is the capacity of my jointer. So far, I haven't had a single issue with the re-saw at 8" thick. No lag, no bogging down, no belt slip and no saw stalling. It has performed flawlessly in that regard. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I will definitely consider a re-saw demonstration on this saw for the show.
Hi Kenny. Wondering if you have the same issue with the fence as I do and if you've found a solution: When tightening the fence, it creeps about 1/8" towards the blade. I usually have to move the fence back a bit from where I want it lined up then, through trial and error, hope that when tight, it has crept exactly to where I need to be. Does your saw have this issue?
That is the nature of these tubular fence rails Dan. I usually just adjust the fence to allow for the tightening movement. It's not an instant lockdown and as the fence bracket tightens on the rail and closes the gap between the two, the fence tends to move. Table saw fences do the same thing to some degree. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great review, honest and detailed and with experience. I sub'd
Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber Scott. There's plenty of variety on the show and there are plenty of episodes to choose from. I hope that you enjoy everything that the channel has to offer. The show airs on Tuesdays and Fridays, with Fridays being the woodworking portion of the program and Tuesdays, being whatever I feel like doing that day. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words.
Great review. I've thought about buying one to replace my older 14" Delta. Held back until today due to cost. Until today. Just got home from an auction, the seller is moving out of state and selling his shop contents. Bought this for $425, taking a risk it used and no warranty. Appearances, it looks ok, and it ran with no screeching 😁. So looking at your good video to see what I should watch for. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I truly appreciate it. Good luck with your new saw. I hope that after you run it through its paces, you are happy with it. Thanks for tuning in.
Great video, I have the same saw and loving it. Where did you get the info sheet you have taped to the inside door.
Thanks for the kind words on the show Richard. I didn't get the info sheet anywhere and in fact, it came with the saw. It was already attached there when I received shipment. Maybe you could contact Rikon and have them send you one. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have owned this model close to two years and have had no issues with the convivence receptacle wiring (spent thirty years of my life as a journeyman electrician). Agree the switch should have been higher. For me the scale is not a problem as I always measure the one fault like most other bandsaws is dust collection that does a good job and can be removed easily for blade changes there are several examples on CZcams. Great review I just subscribed
Glad to have you as a subscriber John. Welcome aboard. I hope that there are other episodes of the show that you will enjoy. Glad to hear that you are enjoying your Rikon and haven't had any problems with it. It seems to be a great little unit. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. It's truly appreciated.
Hey Ken. Based on your review, I should be getting the 10-326 in a week or so. Do you have yours on a mobile base? If so, would you recommend it? I have a small shop, looks like you do too, so mobility is a necessity. Thanks in advance.
Hey there Mark. Thanks for contacting me. I do have the mobile base for the 10-326 and I really like it. Having a small shop means that sometimes you have to tuck a tool away when you are done with it. This base make the saw easy to move. The floor in my shop is a little uneven and rough which can cause me some problems sometimes but if you have a smooth shop floor, this mobile base will be a godsend for you. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Nice review. Thanks
Glad that you liked it John. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Another great video. What blade do you like to use for re-sawing?
I just tried to post a link to the blade that I like and it would appear that my supplier doesn't carry them any longer. If it helps, I use a thin kerf, 3 TPI 5/8" or 3/4" blade for re-saw and I've never had any issues. Thanks for tuning in to the show Harley.
This saw is the most professional piece of equipment in my shop. As a hobby woodworker, I do own a lot of fine tools, some of which are beyond my skill level. This saw supports my efforts. Many of these other tools seem to fight me as I blunder on. Usually its me, but all to often its poor execution of the tool design. I have a 3/16 blade in it now for cutting tight radiuses. I built a circle cutting jig that seems to produce great results, Thank you Darbin Orver. I have also used my 3/4 inch blade to cut a 7 inch slab in two just to try it. I find Makita, Bosch and Milwaukee tools to be outstanding. This Rikon is better. My next purchase will be a contractor level table saw to upgrade for a perfectly fine 10 year old, Bosh jobsite saw. This Rikon saw is the star of my shop. Don't buy cheap tools, as they will make you pay every time you use them.
Sometimes it's true Robert, that you get what you pay for. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi, and thanks for all your info on the 10-326. Have bought one, but haven't picked it up yet. One question -- it looks like you set the guide bearings so they touch the blade? Rikon and others suggest there be a paper thin (i.e. the thickness of a business card) gap between the bearings and the blade. Wondering about your thoughts on this question. Thanks!
If it looks that way Steve, then it is a trick of the camera. Those bearing should not spin when the saw is running and I fully agree with the thickness of a piece of paper between the bearing and the blade. This holds true for both thrust bearings and guide bearings as far as I am concerned. Once the saw begins to cut material, the bearing will start to spin as the blade tried to defect and is pushed backwards into the thrust bearing. I hope this helps. I hope you found the show to be informative. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for your response and for clearing it up. Now I just need to pick up my saw and get cutting!
@@steveblight2120 You're very welcome. I hope you enjoy your new saw.
Thanks for your video. It helped me regarding my decision to buy it (when I'll get a job). The only thing I'm not sure yet is if I can use it on a little wooden bench that I'll make rather than the cabinet that comes with it. Cause my ceiling is 6 feets and the saws is over 74 inches high. Do you think it can work that way?
I'm pretty sure that it should work as long as the surface you are putting it on is secure and you can solidly bolt it down. I have an assembly video of this saw on the channel. Perhaps watching how the base attaches to the saw will help you to know if it will work for your situation or not. czcams.com/video/gpLuv3ElaBA/video.html
I hope this helps. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you, I'll go watching this video right away ;)
@@mathb5053 I hope you enjoy it and find it useful.
Great Review - Thank you much for the good / not so good!
You're very welcome. I hope you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in Ed.
The description of the fence adjustment for blade drift reminded me of the 2 inch block and the gap representing the difference between the fence setting and the blade. I can't help but wonder if that is the adjustment to remove that gap. I would be REALLY dubious about assuming that is the problem, especially if the blade removal slot on the table is already in line with the fence. But I do wonder about the relationship.
At this point in time, for the drift adjustment feature, I am a slave to the band saw's manual. According to the manual, the fence adjustment is used to compensate "drift" of the blade and bring the fence back to being parallel with the blade, not the mitre slots. This would be used when utilizing the saw for rip cuts where the mitre slots are not being used. Again, this isn't my assumed purposed of this fence feature but rather, it is taken directly from the manufacturer of the tool and their described use of that feature. I hope this helps a little. If you are interested in reading about that feature in the manual, you can find it here www.rikontools.com/manuals/10-326.pdf
The description of its use is on page 19. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
I bought this very same Band saw a couple years ago and it gets used almost every day. Never regretted this purchase. The tension gauge is not accurate there's a way to to adjust it, I never tried. The only real gripe it the dust collection has a lot to be desired. only other thing is the fence, it is spot on but to change from tall to low is a step I don't like, So for a lower fence I use a Carter Products Mag fence 2, solves so much id recommend this saw to anybody. Kenny I have noticed your tool tastes are along the same lines as me. Therefore i like your tools. Thanks again.
I may have to look into adjusting my tension gauge Mike. I really don't use them because they are so inaccurate. I've never seen a saw whose tension gauge actually gave an accurate reading of what the tension should be so I just started using side deflection of the blade as a visual guide for me. Glad to hear that you like your saw. I find the dust collection to be a little mediocre but it seems to work okay. I've tried running the saw without d/c and with and the difference is unreal so it is actually doing quite a bit. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words and comments. It's very much appreciated.
Ken, great great review. Very objective and thorough. I would suggest that you write Rikon customer service, tell them about your review and provide them with the link to your video. Never know, they know might want you to test and review other products 😀. My only question is about the on/off switch. Is that a regular switch or did they go the extra step and make it a magnetic switch so that if the power is interrupted then comes back on the saw doesn’t immediately restart? Just a small point but I was curious. Like I said, great review. Thanks.
I'm not really one to contact manufacturers and direct them to my show Paul but I think that I may have to do that. Thanks for the suggestion. I truly appreciate that. As for the switch, I do not believe that it is a magnetic contactor. In fact, I would place money on that. It would be nice wouldn't it? But then again, it would also be something to drive the price a little higher. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the suggestion. It's appreciated.
Kenny great review. I’ve had the saw for over a year and agree totally with your review. The one issue I’ve had is with blades smaller than 1/4”, say 3/16 being very difficult to track and popping off the wheel. I emailed Rikon and sent them a video but I didn’t get a reply so I called, (disappointed they didn’t answer my email). They asked if I had vibration while running and I told them not excessive and they told me to try a different blade. They weren’t very helpful and didn’t seem to care. That disappointed me. Anyway, like to know if anyone is experiencing this issue.
I have had several people ask me about being able to show a video demonstrating blade changes from a 5/8" re-saw blade to a 3/16" blade because they were having problems with tracking. The show has been filmed, edited and posted and is due to be on Alternative Tuesdays very soon. I hope you get your issue cleared up. If you are able to change and track all other sizes of blades with no issues, I would suggest trying a different blade as they suggested. Doesn't sound like saw issue to me. Either way, thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I have a 3/16 blade in my saw now. It works fine, but I don't push it.
Thanks for the Fantastic review. I'm definitely looking to get the 10-326. I think the extra $300 over the 324 is Well worth it. I've seen others mention the same issue with the fence sliding scale. Hopefully they will fix this issue soon. Also, I did see one person who fixed the blade tension gauge problem by simply creating his own scale on a card that was taped over the original one. He adjusted the proper tension for each of his blades so they ran smooth and then made a mark on the card where the yellow needle was and labeled them for each blade size and type. I'm not an experienced bandsaw user, so I'm not sure if that's a perfect fix, but it seems logical.
The tensioning gauges are adjustable Johnny, I just can't be bothered to mess with it because that adjustment never seems to stay "adjusted" for long. LOL. I'm glad that you liked the video. Good luck with your new saw. I hope you enjoy it and if you have any issues, I have an assembly and setup of video on this saw on the channel. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I'm considering the purchase of this exact bandsaw. What is your take on the speed control system for another $600+???
I've never had the need to increase or decrease the speed of my bandsaw Jon. Not on this model or any other model that I've owned. I find a speed that suits me and that is the speed that it pretty much stays at. I can't comment on how good the speed control is as I've never had any experience with it, but I can say, that it doesn't sound like a feature that I would use at all and that the $600 would be better put to use in other areas of the shop. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
This is a useful review -- digs much deeper than your typical online review.
Based on everything said, I was going to guess a strong 8/10, as I think the saw does get so many things right.
I'm very surprised that the saw wasn't designed to be wired with 230V+gnd+neutral to keep the utilitiy outlet.
On the fence scale -- is there any adjustability? (shift the table? or the fence rail?)
Good to see that I'm not the only one with at least a bit of anxiety about the sharp corners on the extruded aluminum fences. (have one on my j/p; haven't gouged myself on it... yet)
The adjustability on the scale is minimal and I honestly don't think it would make a difference. I'm sure that if I wanted to play around with it for a couple of hours, I could get it line up better than what it does but honestly, I rarely use the scale on the band saw fence, so it isn't that important to me to do much about it right now. After quite some time of using this saw, I'm still happy with it and don't have any buyer remorse at all. Love this saw. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words. I appreciate it.
Do you have to adjust the guides if you move them (for example) from the bottom to the top of the cutting height range, on a given blade? I find that on my Jet, I have to do that, and there isn't a way to adjust the guide post.
I've never had to do that when raising or lowering the guides to adjust for the thickness of the stock. However if I did, The guide bearings are fully adjustable to the front and rear of the saw to accommodate for it. I hope this answers your question Fred. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!
@@landoncarter6452 You're very welcome.
I've had problems with the drive belt twisting when changing to high speed. Any thoughts?
Depending on how badly it's twisting, you might want to check on your tension. For high speed, the belt should be on the inner portion of both the motor pulley and the wheel. If you have your belt positioned on both pulleys in the proper configuration, tension is most likely your issue. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I would love to see a comparison between the Jet 14SFX, the Grizzly G0513X2, the Rikon 10-326, and the Shop Fox W1849. For most of these, I can't find any info except on the manufacturer sites, no in depth reviews, and definitely no comparisons. Help?
I would like to see that comparison myself James but unfortunately, we don't have Grizzly or Jet products where I live. We also don't have much in the way of Shop Fox, other than their mobil tool stands. I couldn't review or compare a product that I have no access to and have never used. I can only speak from what I know. I'm sorry that I can't help you out more on this, but I do appreciate you tuning in to the show James.
how you doing Kenny, i have that same saw, you can get the fence and gauge to line up with the blade by loosening the 4 bolts on the bottom of the table top. there is enough movement there to line the gauge to the blade and fence. i know this is a few years late, and you probably already figured it out. love the saw ..let me know if it works for you.
Thanks for the advice Robbi. I've already taken care of this adjustment though. Where were you a few years ago? LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hey Kenny; I just saw a comment on another channel about the rack and pinion for the table tilt. The commenter was instructed by Rikon to shim the table so that it would function correctly. A quick call to Rikon might get you the same information. It seemed to me that they were shimming the table up to increase the gap between the rack and the pinion. Thanks Ken!
I haven't heard this before but will definitely look into it. Thanks for the information Frank. I truly appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to leave such a useful comment.
Good review, a bit harsh at the end, I think. I agree with your issue with the service 120V outlet, but every band saw ever made has a terrible tension indicator.
I always considered the metered rail to be helpful for relative movements, not for distance from the blade, but your criticism is valid.
I like my 10-326, and it makes my last band saw look and sound comical. But then, my last band saw was a 3 wheel craftsman that my dad bought in the 1950's.
Don't get me wrong but I like my 10-326 as well and have no regrets about buying it. It functions very well and does exactly what I want it to do. I just have a hard time giving tools really high scores. No tool is perfect and while there is room for improvement on the 10-326, it is still a fantastic saw that I enjoy using. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your thoughts. I truly appreciate it.
How do I get the fence 90 degrees to the table?
The fence on the Rikon 10-326 is one the allows for the compensation of drift. It is adjustable through the large blade knob on the top of the fence. If you place a piece of 3/4" thick material into the mitre slot of the table (it only has to be about 1" wide) and then slide your fence until it touches the material in the mitre slot, you can adjust the fence with the black knob until it is completely flush against the material in the mitre slot. Then, tighten the fence adjustment knobs down. If you want your fence to be square to and parallel to your blade, you should be setting it to be parallel with your mitre slots as they are milled to be aligned with your blade. If you haven't already, you should check out my setup video for this saw. You can find it here czcams.com/video/noA-G1CSBc8/video.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What bandsaw did you have before this one?
I can't remember the exact model number, but it was a Craftex 18" 3HP band saw. It took a 133" blade and was just a hulking beast of a machine. Really took up a ton of real estate in the show. This one will suit my needs much better. Thanks for tuning in.
Good review, thanks! I would comment though that the reason tensioner gages are not very accurate is because of small differences of blade lengths, even those made by the same blade manufacturer. It is not that the bandsaw manufacturer didn’t get it right. Still a very good overall review.
Glad that you liked the review. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with the information on blade variances. It's very much appreciated.
You may want to put a magnet on those wheels! but awesome review and great attention to detail!
A magnet on the wheels? Care to elaborate on that Michael? Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
At 3:00 in the video - the manual tells you that the gauge needs to be adjusted from time to time and with blades that are slightly longer or thicker (who knows what the tolerances are blade to blade) . The directions for doing so are on page 15. Thought it would be nice to find one that self calibrated, at least this one give you the ability to adjust it.
While I agree that it's nice that it is adjustable, I will also say that in general, these gauges are pretty useless, no matter what saw you have. Thanks for tuning in to the show Barry and for taking the time to leave the information. I'm sure that it will be useful to other viewers of the show.
How easy are the lower blade guides to adjust? Thanks.
The lower bearings, both guide and thrust, are just as easy as the upper bearings to adjust Fred. They too, are spring loaded and a quick twist of their set knobs secures them where you want them to be. Just a spectacular setup as far as the guide bearings and the thrust bearings go. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks so much! I really appreciate it.
@@landoncarter6452 You're very welcome.
Couldn’t you have wired a 240v 3 wire+ ground and still retained the functionality of the 120 outlet?
Anything is possible for the wiring of this machine Gerard. I'm just saying that when you wire the motor to 240 as listed in the manual, you lose the function of the receptacle. That being said, having some electrical knowledge, you could always feed the machine with a 3 wire and retain the 120 volt neutral. I would not suggest using the ground conductor as a neutral or a return wire. That is not it's intended purpose. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
kenny i bought this bandsaw about 2 yrs ago and never used it,,i went out earlier and tried to rip a 2 inch piece of maple and it did nothing,,,what little bit it did rip vered so far off it wasnt even funny,,any suggestions
I have plenty of suggestion Jeff. Not knowing your experience level with band saws, I will be answering as if you know nothing about them. (I'm not talking down to you by any means but rather trying to cover all the bases). If you haven't already, I would suggest checking out my setup video for this saw. You can find it here. czcams.com/video/noA-G1CSBc8/video.html
My father for years, had a bandsaw that acted just like the way you are describing yours. He sent it back to the manufacturer (Delta) and they tuned it up for him.....twice.....with the same results. He was frustrated and decided to throw the saw away and that is when I stepped in. I tuned it up for him in about 10 minutes and it worked like a charm from that day forward. He eventually gave me the saw and said that I would have better use for it than him. One of the biggest causes of blade drift with a band saw is incorrectly set guide and thrust bearings. For starters, you want to make sure that you blade is running properly on the saw's wheels. Once you are sure of that you can square the blade to the table. At this point, you need to set your upper and lower guide and thrust bearings. The guide bearings should be close to the blade but not touching. There should be about the thickness of a dollar bill between the blade and the guide bearings. Same goes for the thrust bearing at the rear of the blade. The same setup goes for the lower thrust and guide bearings. The guide bearing should be slightly behind the gullets of the saw blade. Without the proper support from the guide and thrust bearings, the blade will twist and drift everywhere but where you want to cut. I would also suggest checking out my video on tuning up your band saw. This might help you with the proper setup of the bearings. You can find that video here. czcams.com/video/3U3WVORE1Xk/video.html
I hope this helps Jeff. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Let me know if this doesn't fix your issue and we can go from there.
@@acutabove_woodworkings kenny thank you ever so much for getting back to me,,,i have watched the video,, called rikon and this saw will not under any circumstances cut a straight line,,,,i guess i am stuck with this piece of junk,,,lol
@@jeffoldham3466 first off, Rikon has a top notch customer service department so even if you did get a lemon, they will take care of that I am sure. I do want to point out that sometimes, it's not the saw, but the blade that is at fault. Have you changed the blade to see if the problem persists with a different one? I would suggestion trying that as well.
Hi Kenny... This review couldn't have been timed better! I'm just about to pull the trigger on a new bandsaw, and my choice was down to this saw and a comparably-priced Laguna. You just made my decision for me!! The Rikon is coming to live in my shop! The parts that caused you to drop it from 10 to 7 are things I couldn't care less about (e.g. I never use the fence measuring rule anyway, set tension by ear, etc.). I appreciate the fair review, though. Thanks so much! :-)
You're very welcome Norm. I hope you enjoy your new saw. I have been loving mine. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Given the minor deficiencies and the major virtues, the grade of 7 out of 10 seems excessively harsh to me. In my view, the only significant failure is the location of the switch. And when the fence is in the low profile position, the switch location is a non-issue. I have an older model 14" Rikon saw and the blade guide adjustment scheme on your newer model is a major improvement. Slick 😀.
Thanks for chiming in with you input Allen. I'm not so sure that I think the 7 out of 10 was harsh. I will agree with you that the minor deficiencies may not be a huge factor, but when you add them all together, the points have to be lost somewhere. Sometimes, I guess I need to be a little more judgmental to keep the review as realistic as I can. I would honestly think that if I saw a review of the saw and they gave it a 9/10 and then I got it home and found all these little minor issues, I would think "how on earth did this get a 9". LOL. So I guess it is better to be "harsh" and provide a more realistic review in my eyes. Either way, I've still been very pleased with this saw and I definitely do not regret the purchase. Thanks for tuning in.
Good honest review. Didn’t mention you can change speeds 🤔 thanks.
To be completely honest Craig, I don't change speeds hardly ever on the bandsaw. Mentioning it on the show is something that completely slipped my mind because it wasn't something that I do on a regular basis. Sorry about that. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words though. It's appreciated.
What great timing for your Rikon reviews set up etc. I have been looking for a bandsaw for the garage shop. It was between this one and the Laguna 1412-175. Your videos swayed me to Rikon for sure. Thanks for all your hard work on your channel 😊
@@craigwesson1788 You're very welcome. I hope you enjoy your new saw. Thanks for tuning in
Thanks for the review. I think the negatives are not a deal killer. I wish the scale on the rail was correct, but then I would measure the fence anyway. I care about cut and precision. Thanks.
I wish it was right as well but honestly, I don't think I've ever actually used a scale on any band saw that I have ever own. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment.
At 10:53 - it looks to me like the drift angle off a bit. That is a feature of the new fence - it allows you to adjust for drift. If you loosen the small star knob on the back of the blue rail handle, and the star knob under the knob that is facing up (just above it), you can adjust the drift angle. I am sure he knows more about it than I do, but that is a feature built into the fence and it sure looks like it to me. I might be wrong but the video makes it look like it is angled? Just my guess as to what might be going on. Something else cool about the fence is that you can put it on the other side of the blade because the rails are longer. That holds the work in place when you use the tilt feature. Just my 2 cents worth.
@@barryharrell3355 I appreciate you chiming in with the extra information. Very useful. Thanks.
The blade tension needle moves after loosening small Phillips screw and guide rail move before final tighten to bolts
I'm aware of how to adjust the two items Jeremy but adjusting them won't solve any issues. My issue with the tension guide is that there is no general setting that gives a proper readout of tension. If the tension is correct for a 5/8" and the needle is pointing at the 5/8", then when I install a 1/4" blade and adjust the tension, I should be able to adjust the tension until the needle points at the 1/4" mark and I should have proper tension. That isn't the case here and to have to re-adjust the needle setting each time you change your blade, isn't an acceptable tension gauge in my opinion. As for the rail, it will never be correct either without having to adjust it every time you change your blade, as it doesn't allow for or compensate for the kerf of all blades. So the scale with always be off, depending on what blade you are using at the time. Either way, it is still a good saw and I have no issues with it so far. No tool is perfect and different folks will like different things. I hope you enjoyed the review either way. Thanks for tuning in.
Is that blade 111"? then that gauge is off
I'm assuming that you mean the tension gauge Lynard. The blade is 111" but I don't put too much faith in tension gauges on any bandsaw. I prefer to set them up by feel and deflecting the blade from side to side to test tension. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Seems, as an electrician, you'd still be able to keep the 120v outlet with the motor wired to 240v. Is that not do-able? And you could, and probably should move the switch. I'd be glad to 3D print a plug for the existing one. Subbed up. May purchase the saw.
You are completely right Bill that I definitely have the skillset to wire the saw exactly the way I want it and losing the receptacle for me isn't necessarily a concern. The review was speaking in general for those users and viewers that may not have that skillset. I appreciate you tuning in to the show and now you've got me thinking about relocating the on/off switch to a safer location. The thought had never crossed my mind before (believe it or not) to relocate the motor controls. I appreciate the offer to print the "plug". Thanks for chiming in with your comments.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I'm serious about the plug. Total freebie. I'm 75y/o, retired, enjoy doing stuff like that.
@@billbyrd9845 That's a very generous offer. If possible, maybe you could drop me an email and we can discuss it a little further. I haven't even looked in to moving the switch yet so I'm not sure what kind of plug we would need. You can email the channel at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com
huge thx!
Being Canadian, I'm not so sure about you name. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. I hope you enjoyed the show.
if you made the motor 240V, you can still run another 110V lead to the unit just to supply the auxiliary socket. In fact you could put an RCD into that as well. As for the safety off button.... the inertia of the big cast iron wheels is going to take forever to stop the blade. Maybe a foot switch is best for all table saws and bandsaws etc. because you do not need to take your hand off the workpiece to use it. My table saw is awkward in that regard... if the feed is stiff or something catches on the timber, you can't back it out safely, and you need to keep pressure on the workpiece while turning the machine off. 2020 you'd think we would have emergency foot switches. Anyway, thanks for the review. :)
You are 100% correct on the using one lead to power the receptacle. That however would take a little more knowledge than is explained in the manual's wiring diagram and while I have the knowledge to do it, I'm not a fan of giving electrical wiring instructions on the net. Someone is bound to get a zap. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your safety switch opinions. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Good on you Kenny! I'm going to buy the Rikon machine. Was put off about the lack of microswitches in each wheel bay, but that comes down to unplugging the machine, which I'd do even if there were microswitches there. Thanks for the tip about the weight, 140kg in our talk in Australia. That's freaking heavy! Best get a good strong dolly to wheel that on. Loved the idea of putting the base on while it was laying flat! That is so simple and so smart! BTW, have you had to mess with the bottom wheel adjustment? Another youtuber had to spend a long time to adjust that. :)
@@gregmoore7565 I've never had to adjust the lower wheel assembly and there would have to be a serious problem for me to delve into that. I had an older band saw that needed lower wheel adjustment and let me tell you that it is a slow and painful process. It's one of those things where once you start, you are opening up a can of worms and you'd better be ready to deal with some frustration in getting it adjusted. I've been able to do all adjustment from the top wheel with no need to adjust the lower one. I hope you have the same experience. Good luck. Looking forward to hearing how you like the machine.
Great review! But, I think that you were too harsh on your final score,. I would say that it was a solid 8.5 or 9 out of 10.
I have been known to be a little harsh on the final scores for tools Gerry and you are not the first to point it out. I just find it hard to give a tool a really high score on a review because there is no such thing as a perfect tool. Variations in the way people use them are different from shop to shop and different people would rate the tool differently according to how it suits their needs. No matter who reviews something (whether it be a tool, or a movie, or an electronic device) what it boils down to is it is just the presenter's opinion and nothing more. While I might rate something at a 6 or 7, another user might rate it at an 8 or 9 and I'm just fine with that. No matter what you rate this machine, it really is a beautiful band saw and I have been happy with it since the day I bought it. I have had no issues whatsoever and it has done everything that I have tasked it to do. Thanks for tuning in to the show Gerry and taking the time to chime in with your opinion on the rating. I truly appreciate your input.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I agree that there is no perfect tool. However, I'd compare the bandsaw you reviewed against others you have used in the past. That's a more useful, and fair, comparison. It's really hard to design useful metrics in this situation. My pain points are not the same as your pain points. Still, a very good review and I've almost decided that I will buy it. 😁
@@gpdoyon I don't disagree with you. If I was going to compare it to my old one though, this one would have got an 11 out of 10 as my old one was pretty archaic. LOL.
220 recepticals have a 120 line in them. The plugs are 4 pronged. Most stoves have a 120 outlet built in and they are plugged into a 220 outlet.
Being an electrician, I am familiar with how stoves get their 120 volt receptacle and how the receptacle works with this band saw. This issue is, that in order to rewire this bandsaw to be 220, because of the way the internal wiring is done, (if you follow their wiring diagram and instructions) you would lose the receptacle power feed. I could rewire it and make it work but honestly, it's not something that I would promote on the show as unless you have specific knowledge as to how to do it, I wouldn't suggest it. Sounds like you have the knowledge that you need however. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts.
Thank you.
You're very welcome. I hope you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
got my hands on one, thought raising and lowering the guard felt like shit. also dont wanna have to overcome spring tension to set my guides close to but NOT touching the blade.
Well my suggestion is that if you aren't happy with the tool, return it. Tools are too expensive to have to keep a tool that you are not satisfied with. Thanks for tuning in Chris and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
You should be able to keep the 120V outlet upon rewiring the motor to 240V. You use one of the phase and the neutral conductor, just like a clothes dryer motor (120v) or electric range control circuits. Called an unbalanced load and perfectly acceptable.
I don't disagree with you at all on this. I have been a licensed journeyman electrician for over 30 years and while you and I may have the skill set and knowledge to make such a modification, the average person is at the mercy of the wiring diagram in the manual which coverts the motor to a 240 VAC operation but loses the 120 VAC receptacle. I don't do electrical videos on my channel because there is too many things that can go wrong by giving the general public a little knowledge on the subject. It's best left to the professionals. If you have the skill set to make this conversion, I say go for it. I have left mine for the time being as I didn't want to void the warranty. Once that warranty is up, there is a wiring modification in my saw's future. Thanks for tuning in for chiming in with your thoughts. It's very much appreciated.
Very nice review. I never had a band saw until recently I bought a little grizzly cub. I can't believe how much I use it. Now I really want a large band saw. This one has me drooling.
I wish they would cut the cost by eliminating the table tilt feature.
Well I hope, that for your sake Doug, you find one on sale in your price range. I honestly hope that you managed to get yourself a larger machine that you will be happy with. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You did not mention the two-speed aspect of the motor wheel pulley.
I never went into the speed aspect John because it really had no bearing on the operation of the tool. The belt change is easy to do and it works as advertised. Other than that, the functions are all the same, just at a different speed. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you. Unfortunately, there are folks who believe that the lower speed is for cutting metal. hahaha
@@jageo48 That would be great to see demonstrated on someone else's saw. LOL. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
Thanks for the review. I’ve owned this saw for about a year now, and there are some comments / gripes I would add. My saw had about a 4 inch x ¼ inch section of missing paint under the table at the rear, very hard to see. According to Rikon it was not a structural but earned me a gift card. I’ve not found the 111 inch blades as easy to find as you say. Rikon / Lee Valley don’t sell a ¾ inch blade - why not! I tried a 112 inch blade which you might think would fit except the upper wheel is too close to the frame; I’m sure this was deliberate. I’m not desperate enough yet to modify the saw to fit a 112 inch blade. I have mounted an LED shop light to the top of the upper door directly above the cutting area. I agree, a built in light would be preferable. The mobile base should have been included with this saw. I don’t use the fence very much, its too big to store in the lower cabinet and found laying it against the saw on the mobile base hitch is convenient. Rikon now offer the DVR motor, but only as an upgrade. You get to buy the saw, then pay more for the upgrade and have the old motor to deal with. They don’t offer an option a buying option with the DVR motor preinstalled which makes no sense. I have this motor on a Nova Voyager drill press, and it is fantastic. There may not be many reasons to change speed on a band saw, but doing it with the turn of a dial would be so nice.
Just with a quick search David, I found this supplier on line. I'm sure I could find more if I took the time to dig a little deeper. onlinesupply.ca/bandsaw-blades/Custom-Band-Saw-Blades?gclid=CjwKCAjwlID8BRAFEiwAnUoK1eBMcyrbO_zSRcdTpKqBuGdYvByLXr7TetlNDc0gUXhWmoftuv3ElxoCm5UQAvD_BwE
I'm not sure why Lee Valley doesn't sell a 3/4" blade. I've never had a use for a blade that large but you would think that considering it is the largest blade that the 10-326 can have installed on it, that they would stock it considering that they sell the saw. Maybe that is something to write their customer service department about. As for the DVR motor only being available as an upgrade, maybe I am looking at it wrong, but I see the saw and motor complete for sale on Rikon's website. www.rikontools.com/product/10-326dvr
It's VERY rare that I adjust the speed of my bandsaw and I can't see as the DVR motor would be with the extra expense, considering what I use it for and how I use it.
I'm glad to hear that Rikon provided you with a gift card for the missing paint. Sounds like good customer service there. I like your idea of an LED work light and I may have to install one for my saw. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment David. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings The DVR motor option was not available when I purchased but it is now and I should have checked before my comment. Agreed that a speed change is not needed very often and the Rikon you and I own have a two speed option with a belt change in any case. Thanks for the link for the blades, reasonably priced. 3/4 inch blades seem to work better for re-sawing. I don't know where in Canada you live, but KMS tools in BC sell 111 inch blades for under $10 each surplus from when KMS bought General International who went out of business and had saws this length. They also sell 112 inch blades. I can send a picture of my LED light setup if you like, tell me how.
@@woodysranch2690 You can always send photos or questions to the channel's email address at acutabove_woodworking@hotmail.com
I look forward to seeing your setup David and just an FYI, I live in Ontario.
just a thought , blade you have on there might be metric size instead imperial that why its out on gauge or other way round ,designed for metric and placed imperial gauge on as after thought
That might be a thought, but I bought the blades that were specifically designed and sold for this particular saw. They were also labelled in imperial measurements with no metric listed at all. Thanks for tuning in James and for chiming in with your thoughts. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings i just had a look at specs by me in Australia 🇦🇺 blade length 2820mm
@@acutabove_woodworkings 111.0236 inch
@@jamesleicher Even though Canada is a metric country, the blades and woodworking equipment are still sold and marketed in imperial here. It may be worth looking into though. Thanks for the information.
@@acutabove_woodworkings i have not followed up on size your blade, blade mesured the size as stated ?
You can adjust both of the things he gave point drop
Yes you can, but it wouldn't do any good. Either way, you have to remember what a review is. It is just someones opinion of the tool and different folks will give it different ratings depending on their opinion. Just because certain things irritated me about the saw and it lost points, doesn't make it a bad saw. No tool is perfect and no tool ever will be perfect. I hope you enjoyed the review. Thanks for tuning in.
I wasn’t trying to communicate any negativity and apologize if I miscommunicated, I simply thought if I knew something that would improve your experience that I should share. Your certainly entitled to your opinion and once again I don’t want to miscommunication because I actually really appreciated your review specifically how in-depth you went
@@jeremybroshear1237 No apology necessary. I never took it as negative. I just thought you might like to know why (even though those parts are adjustable) they caused the review to lose some points. I'm glad that you liked the review and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. It really has been a great saw and I have had no major issues with it.
Tensioning gauges are all off to some extent but to be THAT far out makes me wonder where else the Rikon specs might be way out of whack.
I've never liked tensioning gauges on any band saw. They're all horrible. Thanks for tuning in Maurice.
Surely your American electrical system works basically the same as our U.K. system although the voltages are different. Can’t you just use one phase and neutral to power your receptacle from your supply. Isn’t it the voltage difference between the phases that gives you the higher voltage?
I'm not American but I understand exactly what you are saying. The point is not that it couldn't be rewired to accommodate the receptacle with the higher voltage of the saw. It would be a simple rewire. The issue is that they didn't allow for that with their 220 volt rewire and just left it as the receptacle will no longer work. Not everyone has the electrical knowledge to deviate from their conversion instructions so those who would be following along with their instructions would be left without the convenience of the receptacle which is something that they paid for. Can it be done? Of course. Should they have left the receptacle wired separately so that it wasn't affected by the motor's input voltage? Definitely. Either way, thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings I’m terribly sorry, I pride myself on being able to recognise a Canadian accent when I hear it, I know a lot of Canadians are upset by being confused, as are New Zealander’s being thought of as Australians. I just wasn’t thinking when I placed my comment. I know the Canadian supply voltage is the same as the American, from my stay in Vancouver. All the very best to you.
@@anvilhead0 No apology needed. I'm not offended by being called American. After all, we are all in North America.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ✌️
Watching the video and I just keep staring at that dang router table or spindle sander whatever it is man that thing is nice! can be seen at 4 mins 57 secs
That's my old router table Tanner and truth be told.....I gave it away. I bought myself a new JessEm router table and lift and then built the exact same cabinet around that system. The build video was recently posted on the channel if you are interested. Here's a link to part 1 of a 3 part series. czcams.com/video/eciOQDDYj2w/video.html
Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
I find the lower wheel alignment feature to be a liability. Blade tracking can be problematic. Adjusting the lower blade guides is not as easy as the upper. Finally blade alignment for both x and y axis is questionable.
I have to agree with you here Eric. As I stated in the show, lower wheel alignment and adjustment should be avoided if possible. It takes one heck of a lot of adjustment and patience to adjust that lower wheel and in a lot of cases, by messing with it, it just opens a can of worms that spirals into a very frustrating experience. Luckily for me, I have never had to adjust this saw on the lower end and it has performed perfectly from the get go. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your opinion on lower wheel adjustments. I truly appreciate it.
Striking similarities to the Laguna bandsaw. Must be made in the same factory.
There seems to be a trend where many different products are made in the same factories and then just branded with a different name tag. I can't verify that that is the case, but it sure seems that way doesn't it? Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment.
rewiring the motor to 240 will drop your current in half, so instead of drawing 14 amps it will only draw 7amps.
I see that you went to the same trade school I did. Thanks for tuning in to the show Rob.
30yrs electrical technologist , thanks for the great video it really helped me decide between a Laguna 14/12 and the Rikon 10-326. I am picking up the Rikon next week and I will be rewiring for 220. It is too bad that I will loose the receptacle but I can live with it . looking forward to watching more of your video's
@@robburns1070 Before you go the route of the rewiring, give the 120 volt a try. I haven't been disappointed yet.
ok , I will try it first@@acutabove_woodworkings
If you don't like the saw, just say so. ;)
I have a hard time expressing myself. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This is one of those channels where the content is pretty good but the subscribers never increase. I wonder why!!
Thanks for the kind words on the show Kumuk. My subscribers go up slowly and steadily and I think the reason that the numbers don't increase like some channels is simple. I don't really advertise my show at all and don't promote it. I rely on word of mouth and search engines to do the work for me. Sometimes, a smaller audience is better because the people that you have commenting are genuinely interested in the content. I get far less trolls as a smaller channel and it affords me the opportunity to answer each and every comment made on the channel instead of just picking and choosing which ones I answer. If others wish to promote my channel, they are more than welcome to but as for me, I'm enjoying the slow subscriber increase and the ability to interact with good people like yourself. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I hope that you will continue to enjoy the show.
Right on Kenny
Yeah, but can it re-saw railroad tracks:-)..?
I would saw that it would be able to re-saw railway ties. Thanks for tuning in.
Baught this saw 3 months rippedots of wet red oak like butter with a expensive timber wolf blade didn't stay sharp long I will be upgrading to the DVR controlled motor with stimulus check
I hope you like the new saw when you get it Angelo. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your comment. It's appreciated.
10-326 vs 10-3061???????????? (with the money saved I could buy a drill press)
I guess it all depends on your needs Michael. The 10-3061 is a nice bench top band saw but as with all bench top band saws, it has its limitations. The widest blade that it can handle is a 1/2" blade which may limit its re-saw capabilities. Also, being a smaller saw, the mitre slot is sized smaller than a conventional 3/4" wide mitre slot so you won't be able to use any existing mitre fences that you currently have and will only be able to use one's specifically designed for use in a 5/8"X1/4" slot. There are plenty of other differences between the 10-326 and the 10-3061 but if the 3061 will handle your bandsaw needs, then I would suggest you get the one that is best for you. For me, I use the saw mostly for resawing of rough cut lumber so I need the extra capacity. It's nice to have a saw that will handle my re-saw needs and yet can still handle more delicate work when needed. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.
I get the reason for the review and it’s pretty helpful but I see sooooo many people reviewing products and makes me think they just want free products. Why not show the product in motion and being used and show your product that comes from that machine.
Thanks for your comment Ray. I post the odd review after having used a machine for a while so that other might benefit from things that I either like or dislike. I have never received a free tool or product to review in the entire 9 years that I have been producing this channel so I have nothing to gain. The products that are made with this machine are featured throughout the channel with the various projects and shows that I produce. Not everyone wants to, or receives free products and although I have had many offers from tools suppliers, I have turned them all down because I feel that I wouldn't be able to provide an honest review due to an obligation to the people who gave me the tool. Every tool on my show has been bought and paid for by me and only me. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your comment. It's appreciated.
Good answer
can one man with a strong back and an average mind unbox and put it together?
I wouldn't try lifting it, but it could certainly be assembled on it's side and then tilted upright. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Bearings aren't supposed to touch the blade. Search for Alex Snodgrass for a good guide to setup.
I fully agree with you that the bearings aren't supposed to touch the blade. I'm not stranger to the proper setup of a bandsaw and it's guide/thrust bearings or blocks. This is not a demonstration of the setup of the saw, but rather a review of the product itself and the demonstration that was shown, was a demonstration of the ease of setup, not of a properly calibrated guide or thrust bearing. Be careful that you aren't confusing setting up a saw, with reviewing one. I have a separate video for blade and saw setup. Thanks for tuning in, and chiming in with your thoughts.
Dude 120v or 240v use the exact same ampasity. There is no advantage to rewiring the saw.
(edit) Everyone is entitled to their opinion I guess. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Actually i'm not wrong the ampasity is the same, the advantage with using more conductors is the ampasity per conductor is less allowing the user to use a smaller gauge wire.
Steve Miller well I guess all my years in trade school and 25 years in the trade have been for nothing. Thanks for setting me straight I guess.
I wonder if 240 regularly increases horsepower. If you look at the Nova Voyager drill press, it is rated 1.75 HP at 120, and 2.0 HP at 240.
On an unrelated topic, am I wrong in thinking that you can get more bang for the buck on 240? By that, I mean run one 240 circuit with 20 amp breakers on each side, and then run two 16 amp machines on that one circuit, versus having to run two complete 120 circuits to do the same thing. How does one deal with 3 versus 4 wire 240? Different machines with different plugs seems like a problem.
@@johnbluebeard4355 It doesn't really work like that. The 240 volt circuit has it's own designated plug that will not accept a 120 volt tool receptacle. There are only two wires that run a 240 volt circuit as they draw 120 volts from different legs of the panel without having a return circuit or a neutral. The breaker should be a double pole breaker and not 2 single pole breakers. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Nice review. Thanks
Glad that you liked it Steve. Thank you for tuning in to the show.