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DIY Dash Air Conditioning Repair
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- čas přidán 1. 04. 2021
- If you have an underperforming motorhome Dash Air Conditioner, this video shows you how it can be repaired (relatively) inexpensively. In today's video, Dan is joined by friends Bob and Phil, as they share their RV tales of cooling down their motorhomes. Bob was able to save THOUSANDS of dollars by doing the necessary repair work himself! Later, Bob demonstrates how to test the Air Conditioning system on my motorhome. We're big believers in fixing things that make your RV travel and camping experiences better. Having air conditioning is high on the priority list.
In the interest of time, a lot of Bob's instructions were edited. Please let us know if you would like to see a video that goes more in-depth on how to diagnose and repair.
Thanks to everyone who watches, comments, and especially those who subscribe and leave a thumbs up. It encourages us to keep moving forward. Leave a comment with any questions or suggestions for what RV issues you'd like us to feature in the future.
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Bob saved a lot on DIY.
He had to get his hands dirty, but he can be proud of his work.
Very informative video, thanks. I had to have my AC compressor replaced while on a trip. (it seized up) When we went to charge the system, we could not get the compressor light to come on at our control unit. Hence, we could not get the compressor to come on. I've looked for fuses (found it, it was good) and I looked for a low pressure cut off switch. I searched high and low and cannot find the low pressure switch. I'm driving a 2009 Fleetwood Discovery 40X. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks for your kind feedback. I'm not sure where to valve would be located. I find a lot of vehicle specific information in FB groups from others dealing with similar issues. You might try there. Good luck and happy motoring.
PHIL! How are you doing? I was really surprised to see you in this video. Jim (The '73 Step Side).
I have a 2005 Bounder 34M that had the refrigerant leak out through a low pressure hose in the front next to the generator. Oil on the rubber at where the metal end is attached it makes me certain that's the problem. I took it to have a new hose installed & the threads on the evaporator are disintegrated. The A/C shop doesn't get into that with RVs. The Freightliner shop said 10 hours labor, which sounds pretty high.
I have a friend who is a certified (and very good) welder. I think he can weld a new male threaded piece onto the old one. Probably either weld on another aluminum end like what's there now, or braze on a brass fitting. What do you think? I need a new hose made at the A/C shop anyway.
Sounds like quite the repair. Thanks for watching and subscribing. BTW, I'm Dan. Phil is my buddy who appears in many of my videos.
@@youcantoorv9860 Tell him I said hello. We worked together for a few years & he bought a pickup from me.
I have an almost identical RV. Two questions. what is your freon suppose to be filled to? I have evans condenser RV218276 I can't tell if this is a parallel flow or fin and tube condenser.
I am certainly a layman and relied heavily on the Evans Tempcon manual to determine the proper operating pressures. I strongly urge you to download the manual and determine the proper pressures for your motorhome. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
@@youcantoorv9860 No problem thanks, my question comes directly from the manual because I have a Spartan front condenser and if I can figure out if it’s a fin tube or parallel condenser then I know how much freon it’s supposed to have. I have a vacuum on the low side when checking operating pressure, so I believe there’s a blockage somewhere.
Have you changed your drier? They will cause blockage.
Yes I changed the filter drier and I didn't have negative pressure. All I did was vacuum the lines for 1 hour and I swapped out the valve stem on the high pressure side. Maybe I need to change the drier again. The first compressor did lock up so maybe there's still some shavings in there. @@youcantoorv9860
I didn't experience anything like this. Good luck with your repair.
Did BoB flush his system? Anytime you replace the compressor its very good practice to Flush out the system to remove any contamination that the old parts left behind. If the compressor failed theres a good chance you have metal in your system.
Hopefully I won't be doing any air conditioning repairs soon. But I will remember your advice for the next time.
I pray you see this comment, I have a question, one that I thought would've been a simple find, but I have searched the factory manual that came with our Coachman mirada f53 chassis. I have searched everywhere else, and no definitive answer anywhere.
-under the dash on passenger side, at feet, is a vent. It has 2 reservoirs, a bottom one, and one that is above it, that has a flap that stas closed on a/c, and lays down on max a/c. On the front of the flap "was" wha I believe is a "sponge." Well, I looked through the vent cover, and water was dripping onto the sponges on the door flap, while on max
A/c, so the flap was down. When I touched the "sponge" it was so brittle and crumbly it just scraped off. My question is, is water supposed to drip into those reservoirs that I can see I'm tha vent under dash? I ca feel air sucking into an inch wide hole in middle of reservoirs, one on bottom, and one on top on other side of door flap. Also, whe I go under hood, the black box, has a nipple that is leaking the water, ad I had to attach a hose to it so it would stop running all over the battery, but the black box is dripping water from around the seals/edges as well. So the water that's dripping from that nipple, is it coming from those reservoirs inside that black box? It's the same spot that I see in your video where that silver round thing is hanging, and the nipple where I attached that hose, is hanging right behind that silver metal round part. And also, when searching this up, what is Tha vent or system actually called so I can find a diagram for it, or video. Thanks so much
It sounds like you are discussing condensation, which is perfectly normal. The amount of condensation varies according to the humidity. This is only a problem if the "black box" doesn't drain. A wet dark box is ideal for the growth of mold. Condensation dripping or flowing from your AC is a healthy sign that everything is working.
Most RV sash AC units were made by Evans Tempcon. You can Google them and hopefully find the parts that you are looking for. Good luck
OK I believe you can help me
out because my RV is similar to the one in this video. I just bought a used 2003 Newmar Dutch Star 8.3L, ISC 350. Dash AC blows hot air. I tried to add freon and the compressor sized up. I have replaced the compressor and need to replace the receiver drier. I don't know where it is and what part number I need. I know I have an Evans system. I purchased a vacuum and plan on blowing compressed air through the lines. Can you help me find my AC drier?
Sure. Open up the generator compartment and look on the passenger side. It's near the service ports that we accessed in the video. Be sure to evacuate your system before adding freon. Good luck, and thanks for subscribing.
@@youcantoorv9860 thanks a million
@@youcantoorv9860 I have evacuated the system added freon, watched the compressor clutch engage, low pressure hose cold, dash air hot. Do you know when I can find the heater control valve?
It is part of the Evans unit. The easiest and surefire thing to do is to install a ball valve in the heater hose. This allows you to shut off 100% of hot water and ensure that your AC works it's best.
@@youcantoorv9860 awesome. How do I identify the heater hose. Don’t want to cut the wrong hose and do you know the size of the hose?