I love this video of you converting the engine hoist from manual to electric. I went one step further, the electric hoist solved the up and down problem but the hydraulic ram is still so slow at raising. I replaced the ram with a Wen 7218 ram which is much stronger and added a 12vdc hydraulic pump which comes complete with up and down switch. Now the hoist and ram are run on 12vdc and the hoist itself is much faster whether using the cable to hoist material or the hoist arm. thanks for the tip. GARY LICHTENSTEIN, LAS VEGAS, NV
@garylichtenstein943 would you do us mere mortals a favor and share a quick video of how you integrated the 12v electric pump with the Wen 7218 ram? Love the idea
Good job.I might add this to my hoist. One thing that everyone should do,whether you are working on something like this or especially you car, always disconnect the negative battery cable. It will protect electronic components and avoid unintentional welding. 😃
I just purchased a engine crane and have a winch that has been in a draw in my workshop for years i now have a use for the winch bloody good idea thank you cheers
thanks for sharing this I was doing research on winches for a asap pole for my mega tree. I think this will work out great instead of the hand winch they recommend 👍
I like it. I think shivs through the tube with cable over the boom pin and a deep cycle and relay in a box behind the Ram with leads out the back into the winch; would be safer and cleaner.
Don't care for buying an electric wench and battery for this idea but the position of the pulleys and using a simple $20 hand wench has me thinking. There's times when I didn't want to move the arm and just a straight pull up of a cable would have been handy, so thanks for the idea. 🙂
Hey Frank thanks for sharing your creations. But I have to tell you, with having the equipment in your shop that you have ,you could have made the pulleys on your lathe and mill and installed them inside the square tubing on the hoist. Then the cable would have been safe and concealed. Of coarse that’s just me. Anyway, cant wait to see the process of the dozer.
I did the exact same thing last year Frank👍🏿 however I mounted my winch on top at the back of the boom and mounted my deep cycle battery on top of the square tube where you have your winch mounted, its funny I was in my garage today thinking🤔 about how to make the hydraulic ram fully electric over hydraulic instead of that silly pump action🤦🏿♂️
Frank, another option is the type of battery used in a jump box. They vary a little. Some are 17a, and others are 18a and sell for about $35 depending where you bet them. These are an SLA (sealed lead acid) BATTERY.
I almost used, literally, my jump box but opted for the battery so I wouldn't tie up the jump box. But that's another great idea. I've replaced the battery in my jump box twice over the years. I think I bought it in 2002. So I know exactly what you are talking about. Thanks for watching and adding your ideas!
Great idea. On the safer side, I would not connect the battery until all the other connections have been done and checked. This would eliminate the sparks you made. Great job though.
Think we would just find some way to mount the winch on the end of the jib and run electric cable to battery from There. But we are lazy that way. Would think about remote for winch so we can guide load with one hand and control with other. Nice job. At least your doing it. With all Of out ideas we mostly not get around to do it. 😁😀😃
Was there a reason you chose not to utilize the empty square space inside the frame? Since you were going to be using the welder anyway to attach the sheaves on the frame and extension tube, I would have thought a little extra effort to weld a steel sheet under the open section inside boxed frame area would have made a lot of sense. I believe doing so would have created a perfect “tray” or “platform” to secure AND/OR group all of the new components to. You get the benefit of being able to use shorter runs of copper wire(i.e. less material cost, less likely to overheat, less clutter, less straps and organizing) along with the biggest benefit [IMO] of maintaining the original footprint and not worrying about accidentally bashing the winch unexpectedly. If it was mainly just a quick and usable prototype of concept that would make the most sense to me but since I don’t own an engine hoist myself maybe I’m missing something rather obvious that everyone else figured out immediately 😅.
I think I will just do the electric hydraulic conversion. I am also going to do the same to my press. I will have a pump unit that will swap between the two.
This would work to Use on a 10th Floor Condo to Hoist up some Large Glass Sliding doors... Maybe need some Counter weights to Hang it over the Railings... I hope...
one thing you couldve done is mount the winch and electrics on a metal tray inside the square opening on the bottom frame behind the verical arm of the lift , that would protect everything a little better against things dropping on it or getting bumped intoo when moving the crane with a heavy load hanging off it , allso have enough mounting options for a lid over everything sitting in the "hole" it would allso have all the wiring inside a protected area so it cant get pinched
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 you mean the electric cable coming off the winch controll ? it might work if you tread that cable through the boom and have the cotroll hang of the tip of the boom near to whare youre working or worked through an extra hole in the small end of the boom and screw the controll to the side of it then the electric cable that is extra when the boom is shortened just comes out as a small extra loop hanging of the back end , if youre talking bout the steel lifting cable , you could have that going through the center of the boom as well little over the top of the pin holding the boom in its extended state as its open on both ends , you would need to mount the pulleys inside the box section on both end (remove the puley from the original bracket drill hole in both ends of the lift boom and bolt the pulley inside the boxsection with the bolt going through and through , no welding needed ) that way the cable running through the box section without rubbing on its edges you need to loosen the lifting cable enough before extending the boom by hand , extending or shortening said boom with a load hanging off it wouldnt work anyway as the load it jamming the smaller box section in the bigger boxsection
Nice job, I’ve seen a couple different ones like this, one had the winch on top but you said you didn’t want to have it too top heavy. You’d save one pulley though. The one I’m thinking about is using a travel trailer lift jack, they’re 12 volt and lift 3500 pounds with 22 inches of lift which is probably higher than the hydraulic jack that comes with the engine lift. They’re around $150 bucks plus the battery so similar in price or maybe a little less. One thing I like is it won’t bleed down and you have the advantage of the better control that you have with your setup. I think you’ll really like that engine lift now that it’s electric.
I think the operating switch needs moving so you can operate it and guide the load into position at the same time, maybe in a clip at the end of the jib so its fixed but can be removed into your hand.
Harbor freight is cheaper and more compact. A double pully on the end of the boom and double line it to increase the lift. Also when welding the pulls on the end shrink the boom to the 2 ton 4000 lb mark. Keeps you from shorting yourself on capacity.
The pulley above the winch has to be at least a foot above the hoist pivot to help the leverage of the wire rope. The closer you are to the pivot, the less lift you achieve. Ideally, it should be at a 45 degree angle away from the pivot point so it is a foot above the arm and a foot away from the upright. Otherwise when lifting something heavy, you are putting an incredible strain on the cable as the way it is now.
The winch wire rope does not lift the hoist boom. It simply lifts the load. The boom is still lifted with the hydraulic cylinder. So there is no mechanical advantage to placing the pulley as you've described.
Hindsight is 20/20, isn't it? I had trouble finding smaller pulleys with the required capacity, but I think I've got some now. I might retrofit it that way. I agree it would be cleaner.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Manual? What’s that? Lol. Yeah it’s amazing how much you lose with each layer. I’d save the longer cable and just make up one long enough to reach the ground with just a couple of wraps on the drum and by the time you lift it up it’ll probably be just one layer.
I like it but would have mounted the winch on the top of the cross member rather than behind to reduce the overall length of the unit. but that is just me. really nice job.
I thought about that, but didn't want to put the attachment bolts in tension (pulling them straight up) but rather in shear, where they are pulled sideways, a much stronger orientation.
Not so easy to find actual made in the USA tools. I buy Dewalt, Fein, Makita, Porter Cable, for most hand power tools. Have a couple Hitachi tools I'm about done with. My plasma table is made in the USA. My cars are all USA/Chevy/GMC. As for name brand, depends on use. My table saw, shaper, band saw, lathe are all Delta, South Bend, Logan. My Cub Cadets were made in the USA! So it depends.
PLEASE cover all those terminals as soon as you possibly can.. I can already imagine the wire rope or a wrench falling on that relay or even just rolling under a metal frame or chassis or anything else and doing some serious damage, seriously quickly.. also, pick up a wireless relay conversion with a wireless remote and I think you will find that set up FAR more useful, where you can be out near the load and able to hold onto it with (most of) both hands and just click the remote with a thumb. Add a trickle charger to that motorcycle battery, too. Just my two cents, it's a nice project as is!
All great ideas! I have a trickle charger, so that's a done deal. I like the wireless remote, will have to look for one. As for the relay, yes, that's already got a plastic cover on it, but a great observation! The sparks in the video show the potential (no pun intended) of bare connections.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Regarding the remote control, I have a HF small winch with the remote. I find there is a delay from when you release the button & the winch responding. It kind of makes "fine" control difficult
@@skip7243 I have the 'same' winch and had seen comments from others saying the same as you, but have never experienced this delay. I wonder if there are multiple models being sold as "the same" or of it's got more to do with how the winch is installed (mine is on a utility trailer that is primarily wood, not lots of metal or running engines around it), or if it's just a quality-control issue...
Harbor freight sells a pneumatic hydraulic ram I've run on my engine hoist for years. That said, this setup is something I've often thought about doing too with a manual worm gear winch
Your not the first person I've heard call these a cherry picker... A cherry picker is an elevated work platform on a boom lift designed to lift at least one or more people into a jobsite. Odd that that term could be even remotely associated with this tool.
Love it!Doing mine soon,thanks for the tips!
I think it is wonderful that you are doing what you are doing so some one else gets ideas
That is a great idea, pretty easy to do thanks for sharing
I love this video of you converting the engine hoist from manual to electric. I went one step further, the electric hoist solved the up and down problem but the hydraulic ram is still so slow at raising. I replaced the ram with a Wen 7218 ram which is much stronger and added a 12vdc hydraulic pump which comes complete with up and down switch. Now the hoist and ram are run on 12vdc and the hoist itself is much faster whether using the cable to hoist material or the hoist arm. thanks for the tip. GARY LICHTENSTEIN, LAS VEGAS, NV
@garylichtenstein943 would you do us mere mortals a favor and share a quick video of how you integrated the 12v electric pump with the Wen 7218 ram? Love the idea
Good job.I might add this to my hoist. One thing that everyone should do,whether you are working on something like this or especially you car, always disconnect the negative battery cable. It will protect electronic components and avoid unintentional welding. 😃
I'm glad you showed all the wiring. That's the part I'm no good at
Well done. Enjoyed the videography, too.
Awesome, thank you!
Air over hydraulic ram works very well, nice job.
I just purchased a engine crane and have a winch that has been in a draw in my workshop for years i now have a use for the winch bloody good idea thank you cheers
thanks for sharing this I was doing research on winches for a asap pole for my mega tree. I think this will work out great instead of the hand winch they recommend 👍
Great idea. As they say. “Work smarter, not harder.”
Alan here, as a journeyman skilled tradesman in my repertore of tools are transfer punches, holes are spot on.
I have a set of transfer punches! I use them when accuracy is important.
I like it. I think shivs through the tube with cable over the boom pin and a deep cycle and relay in a box behind the Ram with leads out the back into the winch; would be safer and cleaner.
Cool project, another option is air over ram or an A.C. winch.
Nice work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Don't care for buying an electric wench and battery for this idea but the position of the pulleys and using a simple $20 hand wench has me thinking. There's times when I didn't want to move the arm and just a straight pull up of a cable would have been handy, so thanks for the idea. 🙂
Hey Frank thanks for sharing your creations. But I have to tell you, with having the equipment in your shop that you have ,you could have made the pulleys on your lathe and mill and installed them inside the square tubing on the hoist. Then the cable would have been safe and concealed. Of coarse that’s just me. Anyway, cant wait to see the process of the dozer.
Great idea! That would have been more interesting. Got me thinking now...Hmmm.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 having seen other things you've done that is honestly what I was expecting..
Of course, he'd have to take into consideration the pin that is used to set the different lengths of the arm.
Very nice. Remote woud be sweet
I did the exact same thing last year Frank👍🏿 however I mounted my winch on top at the back of the boom and mounted my deep cycle battery on top of the square tube where you have your winch mounted, its funny I was in my garage today thinking🤔 about how to make the hydraulic ram fully electric over hydraulic instead of that silly pump action🤦🏿♂️
Frank, another option is the type of battery used in a jump box. They vary a little. Some are 17a, and others are 18a and sell for about $35 depending where you bet them. These are an SLA (sealed lead acid) BATTERY.
I almost used, literally, my jump box but opted for the battery so I wouldn't tie up the jump box. But that's another great idea. I've replaced the battery in my jump box twice over the years. I think I bought it in 2002. So I know exactly what you are talking about. Thanks for watching and adding your ideas!
Great idea. On the safer side, I would not connect the battery until all the other connections have been done and checked. This would eliminate the sparks you made. Great job though.
NASA studies have shown that lock washers do nothing to keep the nuts tighter than no washer at all.
Think we would just find some way to mount the winch on the end of the jib and run electric cable to battery from There. But we are lazy that way. Would think about remote for winch so we can guide load with one hand and control with other. Nice job. At least your doing it. With all Of out ideas we mostly not get around to do it. 😁😀😃
Was there a reason you chose not to utilize the empty square space inside the frame? Since you were going to be using the welder anyway to attach the sheaves on the frame and extension tube, I would have thought a little extra effort to weld a steel sheet under the open section inside boxed frame area would have made a lot of sense.
I believe doing so would have created a perfect “tray” or “platform” to secure AND/OR group all of the new components to. You get the benefit of being able to use shorter runs of copper wire(i.e. less material cost, less likely to overheat, less clutter, less straps and organizing) along with the biggest benefit [IMO] of maintaining the original footprint and not worrying about accidentally bashing the winch unexpectedly.
If it was mainly just a quick and usable prototype of concept that would make the most sense to me but since I don’t own an engine hoist myself maybe I’m missing something rather obvious that everyone else figured out immediately 😅.
I think I will just do the electric hydraulic conversion. I am also going to do the same to my press. I will have a pump unit that will swap between the two.
Boy I know pumping that handle and turning that valve is so hard and really takes time away from showing off
This would work to Use on a 10th Floor Condo to Hoist up some Large Glass Sliding doors... Maybe need some Counter weights to Hang it over the Railings... I hope...
one thing you couldve done is mount the winch and electrics on a metal tray inside the square opening on the bottom frame behind the verical arm of the lift , that would protect everything a little better against things dropping on it or getting bumped intoo when moving the crane with a heavy load hanging off it , allso have enough mounting options for a lid over everything sitting in the "hole"
it would allso have all the wiring inside a protected area so it cant get pinched
That might work if you could route the cable to allow for extending the boom somehow...
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 you mean the electric cable coming off the winch controll ?
it might work if you tread that cable through the boom and have the cotroll hang of the tip of the boom near to whare youre working or worked through an extra hole in the small end of the boom and screw the controll to the side of it
then the electric cable that is extra when the boom is shortened just comes out as a small extra loop hanging of the back end ,
if youre talking bout the steel lifting cable , you could have that going through the center of the boom as well little over the top of the pin holding the boom in its extended state as its open on both ends , you would need to mount the pulleys inside the box section on both end (remove the puley from the original bracket drill hole in both ends of the lift boom and bolt the pulley inside the boxsection with the bolt going through and through , no welding needed ) that way the cable running through the box section without rubbing on its edges
you need to loosen the lifting cable enough before extending the boom by hand , extending or shortening said boom with a load hanging off it wouldnt work anyway as the load it jamming the smaller box section in the bigger boxsection
Nice job, I’ve seen a couple different ones like this, one had the winch on top but you said you didn’t want to have it too top heavy. You’d save one pulley though.
The one I’m thinking about is using a travel trailer lift jack, they’re 12 volt and lift 3500 pounds with 22 inches of lift which is probably higher than the hydraulic jack that comes with the engine lift. They’re around $150 bucks plus the battery so similar in price or maybe a little less. One thing I like is it won’t bleed down and you have the advantage of the better control that you have with your setup. I think you’ll really like that engine lift now that it’s electric.
I've been using it a lot already. You will see how in upcoming videos. It's turned out to be very handy. Thanks for following along!
I think the operating switch needs moving so you can operate it and guide the load into position at the same time, maybe in a clip at the end of the jib so its fixed but can be removed into your hand.
It's on the end of a 12 foot cord.
Should buy the adapter and convert it to use 18v drill batteries. Much more convenient for occasional use
Harbor freight is cheaper and more compact. A double pully on the end of the boom and double line it to increase the lift. Also when welding the pulls on the end shrink the boom to the 2 ton 4000 lb mark. Keeps you from shorting yourself on capacity.
The pulley above the winch has to be at least a foot above the hoist pivot to help the leverage of the wire rope. The closer you are to the pivot, the less lift you achieve. Ideally, it should be at a 45 degree angle away from the pivot point so it is a foot above the arm and a foot away from the upright. Otherwise when lifting something heavy, you are putting an incredible strain on the cable as the way it is now.
The winch wire rope does not lift the hoist boom. It simply lifts the load. The boom is still lifted with the hydraulic cylinder. So there is no mechanical advantage to placing the pulley as you've described.
Great job but I would have put pulleys inside the square tubing just enough to not bind or scrape the cable
Hindsight is 20/20, isn't it? I had trouble finding smaller pulleys with the required capacity, but I think I've got some now. I might retrofit it that way. I agree it would be cleaner.
I’m sure you’re aware Frank but it’s only 3500 with one layer of cable on the drum. Each layer you have you lose about 15% lifting capacity.
I didn't think about that, thanks for pointing it out. Maybe should have read the manual?? LOL.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048
Manual? What’s that? Lol. Yeah it’s amazing how much you lose with each layer. I’d save the longer cable and just make up one long enough to reach the ground with just a couple of wraps on the drum and by the time you lift it up it’ll probably be just one layer.
I like it but would have mounted the winch on the top of the cross member rather than behind to reduce the overall length of the unit. but that is just me. really nice job.
I thought about that, but didn't want to put the attachment bolts in tension (pulling them straight up) but rather in shear, where they are pulled sideways, a much stronger orientation.
Protect your connections. Dropping a spanner across the power connections could wreck your day.
Frank, do you ever buy any made in the USA tools or anything name brand?
Not so easy to find actual made in the USA tools. I buy Dewalt, Fein, Makita, Porter Cable, for most hand power tools. Have a couple Hitachi tools I'm about done with. My plasma table is made in the USA. My cars are all USA/Chevy/GMC. As for name brand, depends on use. My table saw, shaper, band saw, lathe are all Delta, South Bend, Logan. My Cub Cadets were made in the USA! So it depends.
Where did you get those bottom 4 turf tires???? I’m converting a hoist to pot and Boulder mover need major turf tires
Those are probably Carlisle 23 x 10.50-12 turf tires. Millertire.com has them. As do most major ag equipment suppliers. Garden Tractor tires.
thx@@woodandmetalshoptime8048
PLEASE cover all those terminals as soon as you possibly can.. I can already imagine the wire rope or a wrench falling on that relay or even just rolling under a metal frame or chassis or anything else and doing some serious damage, seriously quickly..
also, pick up a wireless relay conversion with a wireless remote and I think you will find that set up FAR more useful, where you can be out near the load and able to hold onto it with (most of) both hands and just click the remote with a thumb.
Add a trickle charger to that motorcycle battery, too.
Just my two cents, it's a nice project as is!
All great ideas! I have a trickle charger, so that's a done deal. I like the wireless remote, will have to look for one. As for the relay, yes, that's already got a plastic cover on it, but a great observation! The sparks in the video show the potential (no pun intended) of bare connections.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Regarding the remote control, I have a HF small winch with the remote. I find there is a delay from when you release the button & the winch responding. It kind of makes "fine" control difficult
@@skip7243 I have the 'same' winch and had seen comments from others saying the same as you, but have never experienced this delay. I wonder if there are multiple models being sold as "the same" or of it's got more to do with how the winch is installed (mine is on a utility trailer that is primarily wood, not lots of metal or running engines around it), or if it's just a quality-control issue...
@@DieCastoms I cannot answer why, just know there is a few second delay in both directions, so I anticipate it.
My question is - Why not add a hydraulic pump, adding a return line to the hydraulic piston, with a on/off/on 3 way actuator valve?
That's a great idea! You'd still need 12v power and a hydraulic power unit. Lowering the load might be difficult to control, though.
Harbor freight sells a pneumatic hydraulic ram I've run on my engine hoist for years. That said, this setup is something I've often thought about doing too with a manual worm gear winch
cut a link of a chain to make loops
How about some nut drivers Frank. Winch good job.
Freaking lift something already
Your not the first person I've heard call these a cherry picker...
A cherry picker is an elevated work platform on a boom lift designed to lift at least one or more people into a jobsite. Odd that that term could be even remotely associated with this tool.
I don’t see the point . Just a useless excercise 😂😂😂😂