1st Gen Cummins Sound Deadener Project
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Today we show you the extensive project we went through in order to sound deaden the noisy and tinny 1st gen cummins cab. We used products from sounddeadenershowdown and installed them according to his website. We show you the results! I am quite happy with how quiet the cab is now and am in the process of getting a new exhaust with muffler and resonator so it should quiet things down further. Stay tuned for more!
Tyler,
Great log video! It takes a lot of courage to rip out an entire interior. Thank you so much for posting the decibel readings. I know the difference is hard to explain with a decible meter alone but it is helpful to have measurable results as well as the subjective results. Good job!
Thanks for the comment, it was a large task to take on but well worth it in the end.
Haha you expressed my thoughts when I was at the junkyard, pulling out the seats for my 99 chevy Tahoe. There was a moment out there when I asked myself "what in the hell am I getting myself into?" But I got them yanked, and back at home pulled out all the seats, ripped out rotten carpet (some of it was even moist) so gross to ride in that. Put my new seats in bare metal floor, but applied grease to bolts so I can pull them all back out and do some sound deadening and new carpet.
Nice man, I’m about 75% done deadening the entire inside of my 96 ram, up next is the mass loaded vinyl.
You can see the video i uploaded, I started it a few months ago but just finished the dampening sheets yesterday. I’ll be putting up a video next week!
Good job Tyler 👍 you & dad spent 3 days & $800 on necessary task. Non diesel owners can't / don't understand how LOUD 📢🔉🔊🔊💨💨💨💨💨 a friggin diesel IS.
I sprayed bed liner on the interior
of my floor, walls, doors, kick panels
& underside of carpet. I used a cheaper version if Dynamat for
the ceiling & pillars. I didn't meter it
but it's significantly quieter. Thank you for your video / tutorial 👌
Thanks for watching I appreciate the comment. It definitely works wonders. When I restore this truck down the road I'll spray liner on the inside like you did.
This is the most informative video I've found. It is tremenddous the amount of work you did not only to the truck but making the video as well. I sincerely would like to say thank you for the effort and information. I am going to be going through with this process for my Geo Tracker soon and I will use everything you taught me
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
I dynamatted the entire cab of my 1st gen regular cab completely covered every square inch. all the way to the bottom of the rear window and as far up the firewall as I could get to. also covered the doors under the entire door panel. I did not do the ceiling yet. I also replaced the carpet with molded mas backed carpet and my truck is 50 times quieter but I still need to do something on the driver's side firewall around the pedals, the truck has zero sound dampening there and I can hear the engine through there. It was the best upgrade I have done to the truck.
I want to tackle a bit more on the firewall sometime. That's where the remaining noise is coming from.
This is a very encouraging comment! You have tipped me over the line to go ahead and do this to my 99 Chevy Tahoe
Good result decibel wise you need to remember decibels are logarithmic so a reduction of 3dB is about half as loud.
Thank you for understanding!
Oh great to know that! Never knew, when I saw a 3db change on another video, I wasnt sure if that was worth the effort and cost, but for half as loud, that would be great in my 99 chevy Tahoe
That's NOT how noise or sound measurements work. Minus 3db is NOT half the noise unless you started at 6db...correct me if Im
wrong.
@@408SPLKINGS It's a logarithmic scale.
@@408SPLKINGS
Here’s the differences in percent of change foe sound pressure and what you actually hear.
dB Actual SPL Reduction Perceived Volume Reduction
3 dB 50.00% 18.77%
the gauge was reading right. db readings are magnitude based you hear a difference of 8-16 times quieter 4db drop is 8x in sound difference. nice to know what a good sound matting job will do expectation wise, rather than guessing wrong. thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
You put that fragged speaker back in the door tho . . . . .
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Keep the vids on the first gen coming. I have a w350 and I'm learning tons man. Thank you
That’s awesome to hear! Glad you like the videos 👍🏻
Same here i have a w350 dually awesome vids
my thoughts when I was at the junkyard, pulling out the seats for my 99 chevy Tahoe. There was a moment out there when I asked myself "what in the hell am I getting myself into?" But I got them yanked, and back at home pulled out all the seats, ripped out rotten carpet (some of it was even moist) so gross to ride in that. Put my new seats in bare metal floor, but applied grease to bolts so I can pull them all back out and do some sound deadening and new carpet.
Great job I dont care to much for the noise. I ripped up the mat and everything by myself in my 92, just picked it up about a month ago. Only has 113,000 miles on it, but I knew the floor needed attention since it was original. The floor pans had a lot of surface rust from all the moisture lingering and getting in through the wing windows. I got them down to bare metal I used a rust prevention/weather proof rustoleum paint with a brush. Got the coat extremely extremely thick, cleaned the floors off first with brake cleaner along with the floor under the bench seat which is spotless since the moisture doesn't reach it. Then put down some nice sound deadner and left it at that. Not much of a sound difference, just didn't want to have to worry about the floor pans rotting. I didn't do the rear of the cab yet so im sure it'll make it a little quiet once I do the rear floor. Not really worried about it though just don't want to have to worry about rust which the rear is spotless. I lifted up the mat and checked, the hardest part for me about this whole process was getting the bench seat out and putting it back in by myself. Only cost me $110+20 hours of my time 🙂
Thanks for a great comprehensive demo. I liked this one in particular as it has a clear before and after so it was easy to see the difference the sound deadening measures made.
Glad you enjoyed it!
A lot of the "classic body" or "old body" trucks are very desirable and going up in price when they have been taken care of well. So for that fact, it is worth the time, effort, and money to maintain and improve them. And these old square bodies are noisy, so this is an awesome upgrade.
I think so too! I'll be driving this thing forever. They are too easy to work on and keep going. Minimal electronics...and worst case if I need a new engine I can get one for a couple grand and swap it myself..LOL.
@@OvensGarage Absolutely, I look at those crate engines they make a few options now. I am at 190k with my 99 Tahoe, and that is like nothing, I know guys with over 300k.
Tyler these are all great videos that you and your Dad are doing, Love them.
Have you thought about a rust prevention video?
I have, I will have to show everything that I do to prevent the harshness of nasty winters from getting to these trucks! Add it to the list...! 😋
Wish I could’ve done this when I still had my 93. Love the truck man and all your content 👍🏻
Thank you!
Looks great man! I miss my straight pipe but that MBRP resonator still sounds good and really quiets drone. If i ever go to a manual i will go back to the straight pipe i think. My dad had a Monte Carlo dale Earnhardt edition that used to be a car used in sound system competitions and had deadening all through it. Amazing how much that helps.
Hi , I'm considering a friends 93 1st gen when he's ready to sell & checking you tube & other article's . Just found your channel , well done w/explanation's & some of your experience's from a older fella & experienced mech . I noticed quite clean interior metal work was good condition , some other tube vids showed common rust areas , Regards
Glad I can help, hope it is a good buy for you
When I pulled out my seats and carpet in 99 tahoe, seeing how beautiful and clean the metal floor was made me think of leaving the floor bare metal but it's too noisy for long trips so I might as well go ahead and cover up that nice metal with some sound deadening material.
In your pillars, you can use that liquid spray insulation. Works pretty good.
Gotta be careful, some foams hold water accelerating rust.
Even just from the camera sound, you can tell a pretty big difference once the materials go in. Seeing the pure db drop doesn't seem like much, because most people don't know that db is a logarithmic scale (a 10 db sound difference means twice as loud). So just with the truck shut off, you've already reduced the sound in the cabin by almost half. What would really make it more informative, however, would be an EQ reading before and after (which you didn't take), because like you said, specific kinds of sounds seem a lot quieter. Seeing exactly what frequencies were reduced in that 4 db drop would definitely be a cool measurement.
Also would have been curious to see how much weight you added to the truck with that material. It certainly looked like a lot of stuff, so I'm guessing somewhere around 50 to 75 lbs. Obviously on a big diesel truck you wouldn't notice much of a difference, but on people trying to do a similar project on a little Honda Civic it could be pretty significant.
Great comment! I know that the true effect wasn't really reflected in the db readings. I have been loving how solid it makes the truck sound overall from the inside now though.
Very good video.
I like this approach. Might give it a go on a 2005 Excursion. I wonder if magnets could replace the Velcro. Also thinking about approaching the foam layer as paper machete. Using lots of randomly oriented pieces to accommodate contours. I’m thinking of using spray adhesive to bond the foam pieces. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Killer job
Im guess if you wouldve pulled the dash and sounproofed that area as well as under the hood, it wouldve been a much more significant drop, i am in the process of doing the whole cab, even behind the ac box, perhaps ill make a video myself, and if i remember, i will let you know my results
Yeah, I would have done behind the dash if I had the whole truck apart and was doing a re-build, but this was good enough for me at the time!
Im not a dodge fan but damn that truck is friggin clean!!!!
Thank you!
For american trucks, if you have them before the year 2000, all the classic body or old style, are very solid vehicles. They're tough as hell, but they are noisy lol
I enjoyed this documented exercise as I did the same with my '97 Ram 3500. The task on reducing NVH is a difficult and complex process. We have to take into consideration SPL at given frequencies under a wide range of environmental conditions. Your result of 3db reduction is not insignificant. I would suggest you work on the hood next as there is significant energy transfer thru the windshield. At a minimum seal the gap between hood and firewall. If you're feeling adventurous rework the entire hood. Check your results and share.
I might tackle that level of effort if I ever decide to restore my truck completely...but I'm pretty happy with the results at this time! Thanks for the comment.
Great Channel
Would like to see your results if you added the engine blanket/timing cover/oil pan blanket soundproofer thing that is being made. Have you seen those?
Great video. I like how took us through step-by-step. I was hesitant on attempting to do the same with my truck. But after seeing this, I'm much more confident. I like your tip on just punching the panel clips through the CCF to help prevent vibrations. Your before and after results are great. I will be doing this process in my 2018 Tundra for a SQ stereo install. Was the only area you have issues with holding up the MLV with the SDS velcro strips on the rear quarter panels? It appeared to hold up okay on the doors. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks! I like to document the process. It went by a lot quicker in the video haha! Yes on the clean metal such as the doors the Velcro didn't have any issue at all sticking. It was just this odd film on the rear quarter panels that was causing an issue. So if you are having troubles try the best you can to clean up the metal of any films. Cheers.
Amazing job. Thanks for sharing the video. Is the cement necessary especially on the floor where the mlv is laying on the ccf? Can the cement be replaced with tape or something else. Thanks again. Very informative video
I agree ! Great video ! I see it was done a couple years ago now ! It would be my guess that your summers are not very hot ! I may be wrong ! I saw wondering how everything is holding up ? I'm in North Carolina and it does get hot ! I'm wondering if the sound reading mat would stay in place during a hot summer ! You folks in Georgia / Texas / Florida / Arizona ! Any experience with Dynamat type sound insulation overhead !
It’s been years but I’m hoping you still
Look at these, do you have the specifics on how much you used and how much this costed sir, I’m trying to understand everything you bought and used and I need specifics I’m not on a budget but I wanna do this right and once so i don’t have to do it again and spend more than needed
Asides from what's shown in the video I don't have records of how much I purchased, sorry!
I'm guessing that this will suffice as insulation as well/maybe???
Yes, I would think so.
Where did you get that foam stuff the goes down before the MLV
Put the muffler back on and let everyone else have quiet too!
It's got a muffler and resonator.
Just wondering why you wouldn’t install a muffler that would quiet the sound without a reduction in performance.
Yes, I did install a muffler after this video when I did my full turbo back exhaust system. It has a resonator and a through muffler.
Its great to see you take on a project like this. I'm considering the same with another pickup. 3 days work (and the price for all the gear) for only 3.5 decibels seems like a load of work for a small improvement. After all that work I'm now more tempted to put in a set of 50 cent earplugs. I would have expected more for your efforts, and I can see you worked hard on this.
It is a lot of work, don't get me wrong..but I don't think the decibel readings accurately justified the change in the way the cab sounds while driving overall. It really makes driving more pleasant on long trips and it just feels like a more solid and "new" vehicle from the inside. Not to mention, my stereo system sounds 10 times better.
Please don’t get miss understood. Every 3dB is 50% less noise to hear. That’s a lot!! Thank u.
People, in general, don’t understand decibel reading. They are logarithmic, not linear. Even 1 decibel is a major difference.
@@psychodadandjfit3974 great to know that, you're convincing me to do my 99 chevy Tahoe
nice job!
Thanks!
How can that thing still be that noisey in the cab? 60's is a nice decibel sound inside the cab
that old 12 valve...lol
Creo que es por debajo del tablero donde entra mas ruido y por los empaques de las puertas
Did you do any idle adjustments? My 1989 W250 LE at idle tends to rattle the drivers side mirror. I also wonder when you did the interior disassembly if you ran into any problems with the trim around the headliner breaking, and if so is there a source for replacements. You have a lot of good ideas, and 6dB of sound reduction is nothing to sneeze at. My radio sounds like crap, like the speakers are rattling, and you have some excellent ideas to improve that situation.
Yeah I have done idle adjustments before. I have noticed the same thing. If my idle is too low it tends to shake the mirrors and the lower it goes lots of interior parts start rattling haha. I was trying my best to be careful and not break any trim pieces. At the moment we are kind of limited to junk yards for replacement interior pieces, I think LMC truck might sell a few but not all of the pieces.
How yould this compare to dynamat?
What is that screen by the glovebox? Loving the videos of your beautiful First gen btw
Thanks! That small screen is my Sirius satellite radio.
u gotta sound deaden the hood
Maybe down the line...
Great video. what part of Canada are you in; and how was shipping costs? I am in Alberta.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
What about the glass?
also, that cement glue is it harmful once it heats up in the vehicle? why not just use a tape for the seams
The glue helps hold the MLV seams together, it dries solid once cured
Your breathing diesel fumes 100% of time as long as the engine is running from inside / outside / windows up / down / doors open / closed & interior materials aka plastics / carpet ALL have carcinogens aka
poisonous OFF GASES.
That’s A LOT of work for 3db
🤔 You ever consider spraying the bottom with lizard 🦎 skin 🤔
Don't forget, the decibel scale is logarithmic so the difference in reading is actually quite significant.
do you live on the island now?
I do!
What kind of consel do you have on your bench seat with the cup holders?
It's from a website called cupholdersplus, I get a lot of questions about that center console. It works great though to hold drinks and rest your arm on while driving!
Ovens Garage awesome, thanks! I bet! It’ll be nice to not have to put the pop between the legs😂
@@fishnfreak04 that's how people get pregnant 😂
@@408SPLKINGS lmao😂
Add a muffler
Doesn't look like anyone asked yet. What was the expense on materials?
Hard to remember but I think it was about 800 dollars
I was very interested in doing this, until I saw your results. That’s disappointing.
Sound meter works in a logarithmic manner, so I don't think its disappointing, btw he didn't use proper isolation and also, in real life it gets mych better than what sound meter manages to show
@@medqenmedness229what is the ‘proper’ isolation??
Fuc&ing awesome
Thanks!
Would you do it again knowing how much work it was? I could hear a notable difference
Tom Green I would definitely do it again. Worth the work for sure. To take it a step further if I was doing a full restoration I would spray the interior of the cab completely with a modern spray on sound deadener in addition to this.
I am ocd like ur self and sprayed my floor pans with a rubberized coating only because water had been present but am putting MLV in today. I’m not going to “decouple” it
Have fun!
Any ideas where I could track down a carpet for a club cab? Everything I find online is for the single cab
Try out LMC Truck. I think they might have what you are looking for...if not there is always the junk yard or facebook groups
Also Rock Auto
I'm doing about the same thing and found the carpet here for $166 for the extended cab..I used the rubbersticky stuff from Lowes with aluminum for the whole cab which is about the same but MUCH cheaper $18 for a foot by 15 foot length www.jcwhitney.com/details/AutoCustomCarpets/Carpet_Kit/AC1198861601077.html
try Stockinteriors.com I got the complete set for my Ramcharger there!!
if I'm not mistaken you actually didn't need the closed cell foam because its a barrier like the MLV(which is 1lb/sqft)
The CCF acts as a de-coupler between the MLV and the panel, just to prevent any vibrations.
Does yours have overdrive if not will it go 75 no problem?
75 mph
You’re old auto
Fastest I've been is like 130kmh in the truck. I wouldn't want to stay there for long though LOL
Why so many open spots? Would have been even quieter had the whole thing been covered.
not true.
The goal of the CLD tiles is just to raise the resonant frequency of the metal panels, which only requires about 25% coverage. To demonstrate this, bang on something hollow-ish, then try it again pressing your finger against the surface. You'll hear a higher pitch
I have a 89 d350 Cummins and I'm eleven
Forgot the hood
I heard the hood makes a huge difference too
“This little picky tool”.....
A screw driver bud?
That's the one.
So much efforts... I respect that. But no significant difference after the treatment. That is one extremely noisy truck. I am not keeping it even for free.
The decibel readings are a bit deceiving since they are logarithmic, driving the truck especially in long hauls is much easier than without the sound deadening now.
@@OvensGarage ok.
@@OvensGarage yeah it's the long trips with all the humming and deep vibrations that gives you a headache or the discomfort. It is tolerable for short trips, but the long hauls what is driving me to do this to my 99 chevy Tahoe
Awwww it's an old truck it's not built for comfort
Not worth it
It depends on the type of vehicle.
On such an old junk with a noisy clattering engine on a solid, thick metalled old school body, its the engine noise that’s most obvious. Hence, on any old junk, the FIRST place to treat would be the FIREWALL..
In the above, all the expensive and heavy MLV produced only a paltry avg 4 dB reduction of certain frequencies with the noise from that clattering old junk engine being unaffected. IMO...a total waste of money and time due to the illogical usage of materials.
You did a poor job mate
Deletes muffler to make an already too loud truck louder, then spends a ton of time and money to make it quieter.
It's not deleted. I actually put a muffler and resonator on it to quiet it further. Thanks for watching.
Amazing job. Thanks for sharing the video. Is the cement necessary especially on the floor where the mlv is laying on the ccf? Can the cement be replaced with tape or something else. Thanks again. Very informative video