Home Built ROV- Remotely Operated Vehicle
Vložit
- čas přidán 17. 10. 2018
- I built this ROV using ideas from around the web, mostly, but then adapted them to my own dimensions, and added a few ideas of my own. The majority of the concepts here, and the wiring of the motor control solenoids, are those of Stephen Thone of homebuiltrovs.com
I also found the ideas and adaptations of Nathan Broman very good and helpful, too. You can see his work on CZcams at • Homebuilt ROV Submarin... and • Seaperch ROV
But there are many great ideas out there, and many different concepts in ROV design and construction, from the fine professors at CZcams and Google Universities.
Thanks to my friends Berj Ensanian / KI3U, and Greg Stachowski, both of whom gave me great advice along the way.
Probably the only addition I will make is to mount a small "ball" compass to a stalk, so that I can see it in the video. This will give me some orientation while the ROV is underwater. It was suggested I add protection for the props, either in the form of screening, or tubing to better direct the thrust water flow, and make it more efficient. I still may do this, too. I did blow one fuse when a prop tangled in fishing line... and so one change will be to replace the spade fuses with automatic resetting 5 amp fuses. Then I won't have to dig in the wax to replace a fuse.
Specs:
3 1,100 GPH, 3 AMP Bilge Pump motors by Amarine (stripped of centrifugal impellers and impeller housings in lieu of propellers)
Frame is 1/2" PVC: @ 12"Lx5"Hx6"W
Float tubes are @12" long, 2" I.D. PVC
Weight tubes are 1" I.D. PVC
Power cable is solid copper strand, 16 gauge speaker wire
Control cable is Ethernet (8 leads, 6 needed)
Weight of ROV without ballast approximately 6.5 pounds
Length of tether: 50'
Propellers, RC boat 3 blade, D45mm x 1.7 Pitch
Remotely powered (no batteries on board), 12v
Fuses:
Each motor, 5 amp spade type, on board ROV (in electrical box)
One 20 AMP in control box for all ROV power
One 10 AMP in control box for ROV solenoid control leads
6 Solenoids, OEG OMI-SS-212L DPDT, 12VDC, 5A
Cost: My cost list is only an estimate, and from what I remember I paid for the parts. But it is a good rough estimate, I think:
PVC:
Tubing and fittings for frame: $12
Tubing and fittings for floats and weights: $14
Electronics & electric:
6 solenoids: $32 (I had to replace these after ruining the first set with wax)
Speaker (power) wire: $14
Ethernet wire: $18
Switches: @ $22
Pilot light: $5
Battery clips: $8
Motors: $21
Video camera kit: $113 with shipping
Other:
Propellers: $18
Cord: $6
Bolts: $3
PVC glue: $6
Tie wraps- on hand, but about $6 worth
Tether sheathing: $11
Foam for tether floatation: $4
Weights: found lead, free
Total: @ $283
Hours: I have no idea... an hour here, a couple there... really not that hard to build though. Simple plumbing and wiring, etc. - Věda a technologie
수중드로 diy라니 아름다워요~~~~👍
Excellent job! I'm building my first ROV now! You've given me some things to think about!
Thanks for the video. I got out of the Air Force about 2 years ago, flying F-16s finally wore my body down enough to where i wanted out. I started my own business doing inspections with ROVs. I purchased a RJE Oceanbotics SRV 8 but ive been wanting to build my own just for fun on the side because i dont like having nothing to do when im at home and your video gave me some good ideas. Thank you sir.
Well Heath, thank you for the nice comments. They are great fun to use, for certain. That SRV 8 must be a great machine...
All the best..
Had the same idea before I even seen any videos about the camera using the same case with the same setup but I'm glad I found this video so I have an idea what I need to do to build a similar ROV. Awesome information that I will definitely use thanks.
Very cool.. thanks for sharing
Very efficiently realized, outstanding job !
Thanks much!
Good work! Very interesting
:)Fantastic build,great job Mr.
I like bilge pump idea.
Wow thanks much!
Thank you for your post. I am building my own ROV and looking for some tips. Your video was help
Cheers
czcams.com/video/z9pCJ-b8e5o/video.html
Good job on the ROV. It's surprising how much you learn by building one.
I did an ROV with wax in the wiring box. It works good, but what a huge pain if you need to get at the wiring later. And it seems like it's almost a certainty you'll need to get at the wires before you get everything working well. :^( I think my next one will just pressure compensate everything with non conductive mineral oil.
A couple of upgrades you might want to consider for yours might be putting the camera in a bubble with a servo to tilt it up and down. Makes it a bit easier to look for stuff on the bottom without getting too close to the bottom where you'll stir up silt. A bubble would also give you a wider field of view.
Another would be bigger props. The little ones work good for forward, but I'll bet reverse isn't very effective. If you could get some old computer fans you could maybe put a plastic hub in the middle to mount on your motor shaft. This puts the blades far enough out to flow past your motors in reverse rather than flowing into the motor. A bit of PVC to make a duct around the blade would make it more effective.
Very well done! I just finished the construction phase of my new control box and a new tether - VERY similar (at least optically) to your design. Though yours just might be a bit more efficient.
Haven’t tested mine yet due to a lack of time... but seeing your video gave me quite a motivational boost! So thanx for sharing that!!
Once again: well done!! 😬👍🏻
Thanks, Thomas. When you finish yours, if you post a video, I'd love to see it. Good luck!
Done: czcams.com/video/cmCwSt5U60M/video.html
:-)
Wow Thomas! Great job! That is beautiful!
Very cool man!
Spare Parts (2015) movie brings me here
i think a rumcam split 2 would be perfect in a uav...hmmm i feel a winter project coming on lol
This is great common sense design. Thanks
Thanks, Michael.
Okay question: where did you get that plastic grid with that circular middle part for your vertical thruster? It sort of looks like a frame from a shipping box or something but I just can’t tell where I’ve seen it before....
Deep in your subconscious you recognized it! It is a plastic milk crate... you can choose the appropriate section of grid you need, and simply cut it out with a saber saw...
Nice looking machine! I would suggest electronics potting resin for your component box. it doesn't get nearly that hot!
Thanks! And great advice on the potting material... live and learn.
Good job
Thank you, Derul...
Can you record with the the cameras on these diy rovs or would you have to add a gopro? If so can you record in 4k?
Hi Marty (not his real name!): When you buy the type of video unit I did, you have the option of models that record on a micro sd card, while viewing. The SD card plugs into the monitor.
But they are not high res, by any means. Not the greatest. I did think of mounting a GoPro on the ROV, and just letting it run... then the camera on the ROV would be for aiming it, and when brought back aboard... well, there is your high res.
I would love to build one I know nothing of electronics lol
Same
Anyone have a link to the camera system?
I want to make this project plz help me. I need each component details and dimesion and step wise instruction.
How u mount the bilge pump
Lovely job. Will it stand up to seawater?
Thanks Plan-C. As for use in seawater, I suppose there would be some extra risk of corrosion. But the bilge pump motor shafts have seals, and no water is supposed to enter. And the camera, and the relay box are sealed also. So I think as long as all the motor, electrical parts and connectors don't suffer from seawater intrusion, it should all be fine.
BTW, I have used it quite a bit in the Hudson River, as far down as Yonkers, where the water is very brackish at times. That is, salty. It is several years old now, and works fine.
All that being said, I do, and it would make sense to rinse it off with freshwater when you get back from brackish or salty water.
Hi, where did you get that monitor briefcase thing?
Sorry I missed your comment for so long... Anyway, the briefcase was sold with the camera unit, as a container to hold the camera, cable and rechargeable battery. The battery was hopeless, BTW... very short view/record time. And the monitor screen was mounted in the lid already.
I converted it to a controller by removing the inside padding, and putting in the control panel which I show.
The fish are going WTF. Man, you've got to change that fish tank water. LOL.
Probably about 50 million gallons in that lake... but I'll get started! Now where is my pail?...
Question, how do you control the item to go down and up
Hi Robert: The motor/prop assembly that is standing up vertically in the middle of the frame is for this. This motor runs forward and reverse, which is up and down. It is controlled by the center button on the control panel.
In practice I was very surprised at how fast this makes the ROV rise and submerge. My last use of the unit was late summer, in the Hudson River, at about 42 feet deep. The ROV got to the bottom in only a few seconds... it just about shot down there. Maybe 20 seconds or so? I didn't time it, but it was fast.
You can see the ROV submerge and rise using this propeller, by the dock, in the above video.
great stuff! Question: How do you stream video from the camera to the screen? Using a program? What kind of cable is it? thnx!
Hi, Hal... the video camera has a cable, which runs up to the screen. The video camera camera, cable and screen were bought as one unit, on eBay.
Any idea on the PSI this can withstand?
I'm sorry, I don't know, but I would say the seals on the Amarine bilge pump motors might be the limiting factor. I only have a 50' tether on mine, and the deepest it has been is about 42'. I've not noted leakage of any components at that depth, but of course 50' is an easy target depth.
The wax filled electronics box would probably be safe much, much deeper, as even if the seal leaked I think the wax would protect the wiring, solenoids and fuses in there.
Then there is just the motors and camera. The underwater camera I use came with a 100' tether, I think, so it is expected to withstand that. But the motors, while sealed and advertised as "submersible", are not rated by the company on their sites as far as I could tell. And I see no one that tested them. I would risk them to 100', myself, as they are not that expensive. But like I said, my tether is only 50' anyway.
But another limiting factor to the design I used is that the ROV is powered from above... from the boat, and through the tether. There is necessarily some loss of power through the line powering the unit. This has to be taken into consideration in any design. For deep designs, this is one reason the battery power is mounting ON the ROV, and the solenoid controls only triggered with low current through connecting lines.
Anyone building one would have to look up the power needs (add up all draw), and the power loss through various gauge wire. I did, and for the wire I used, power loss was negligable, and the unit works fine.
TLDR: The working depth of the bilge pump motors is unknown, and probably the limiting factor for leakage of components. The loss of power through the supply lines should be calculated for deeper designs.
halo mister, can you teach me how the step to make thar ROV? please mister, because i want to finish my final task in college
Any idea approx. how many pounds of lead you needed for ballast?
I'm sorry, Stephen, I would not even have a good guess. But I can tell you that I worried about this being an issue before starting... and it turns out not to be. Balancing for neutral buoyancy was one of the easiest and most forgiving things to do. As long as you have your ballast tubes with a removable cap on one end, and drilled so they flood, it is easy and quick to balance in a tub.
I would say... don't kill me if I'm wrong... if you had 5 or 6 pounds of wheel weights and/or bullets ready, that would give you more than enough for a unit of this size.
I have my ROV packed away for the winter in the attic, but if I get it down I'll weigh the lead..., but not sure when I could get to that.
Proto.
@@proto57 Hey, thanks! So far I cast just about five pounds of lead cylinders that can slide into the ballast tubes, four larger and four smaller. I'll be using this in salt water (Casco Bay, Maine) which is denser than fresh so more buoyant. I've 3D printed lots of ABS parts to hook everything together, camera mount, and designed a gripper that runs on a 4th bilge pump. I'll have all that up on Thingiverse and post a link...
Good idea! Best of luck. If you get a video of your results, I hope you post them on youtube. Link any videos here, if you do.
Will so! @@proto57
You should tap the enclosure a few times after you pour in the wax.
Very good idea! Next build, I'll do that...
Nais👌👌👌👌👌👌
Jb also completely degrades under mosture. Unless you used the marine one
what type of motor for the propeller did you use? thank you
Hi Afiqah: They are "1,100 GPH, 3 AMP Bilge Pump motors by Amarine (stripped of centrifugal impellers and impeller housings in lieu of propellers)".
These bilge pump motors are readily available on eBay and elsewhere, inexpensive, and waterproof. I have a (fairly) complete listing of the parts I used, in the description.
Best of luck!
Yes I can see fish
can I ask you?
Of course, SVR... but ask me what?
@@proto57 What is that's thing that's big and on top of your rov it's use PVC pipe too but did you put something in it?
@@svr4808 Hi! The larger pipes on the top are the flotation for the ROV. They only have air in them, and provide buoyancy. The ends of those tubes are cemented shut... sealed against leaking water in, or air out.
The buoyancy they provide is balanced out by the mass of the ROV, which causes it to sink. This mass is adjusted by the amount of lead bits put in the two lower tubes.
I hope that explains it! If not, ask again...
All the best, proto.
@@proto57 Ohhhh thank you so much
Great work sir... I'd love to send you an email. working on a similar project. please can I have your email address?
Kurfirre! I'd rather not post my email publicly... but any questions, feel free to ask here. Others will probably be interested in your project, too...