Build your own ROV Submarine Seaperch - portable DIY
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- čas přidán 24. 09. 2021
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Tracktribe - Into the void
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Hope this helps with your own project! Feel free to ask about any further details, since this is all rather compact.
The construction manual for basic version of the seaperch ROV can be downloaded under www.seaperch.org
Thank you for watching! Enjoy! Much more coming soon!
In the meantime enjoy my previous ROV videos:
Under water dome: • Homemade Action Cam Do...
ROV bilge pump motors - • Homemade ROV engines w...
ROV Thruster Housing - • ROV Thruster Housings ...
ROV Lighting - • SeaPerch ROV Lighting ...
ROV Controllers - • ROV arcade and basic C...
ROV SeaPerch - • Extreme SeaPerch ROV -...
ROV Depth Gauge - • Selfmade ROV DEPTH Gau...
ROV Tether Projects - • ROV Tether Projects To...
ROV Wiring - • Wiring your ROV contro... - Věda a technologie
I used to love doing this 30 years ago. I used twisted Bell wire to make a cable with floats spaced along to neutralize it. There really wasn't much of an internet back then so I had to come up with everything on my own. My thrusters were for/rev with a handheld box of DPDT switches. The precision and grace I could get with such a cantraption mesmerized me. My motors always lasted about a month at the most since they always leaked. I gave it up when I could not keep using motors as disposables.
This is absolutely amazing! This design has so much potential! Your ingenuity in this project had so much attention to detail and I'm thinking of trying this myself to recover a lost camera from the bottom of the ocean.
Cool project. I don't think I've seen anyone use tape for color instead of just painting it after. I really like your light system too.
A couple of tips for other people that are interested in building these; Rubber coat made for dipping tools works great for sealing around where you might want to pass wire into a waterproof enclosure. If you power it from the surface through the tether you'll lose a lot of power with small gauge wires. I might be worth adding another water tight PVC tube with a battery on the ROV and just running the signals down the tether. If you use a pair if arduinos in a master/slave config, you can cut your wire count down in the tether and get PWM control over your thruster speed, but it'll add some expense and complexity.
If you want a camera that tilts up and down, a small FPV camera mounted on a servo for tilt can be direct driven with a switch on the surface and pair of AA batteries or from an arduino. You can get a plastic sphere to mount it in on Amazon or many craft stores. These are very thin walled plastic, but can handle a LOT of depth (well over 100 feet) and are cheap.
You can waterproof any motor pretty easy. Find a motor you like and get an o-ring that fits the shaft snugly. (but not too tight) Use a caliper to find the outside diameter of the o-ring. Buy brass tubing on Amazon that will be a snug fit over the o-ring. (they list OD and wall thickness so it's easy to figure the ID) use a tubing cutter to cut little rings of it and put it over the o-ring against the motor case and epoxy it in place. This gives you a water tight seal around the shaft. Tape over any holes in the motor case and solder wire to the connections. If the back end of the motor shaft is exposed, put some sort of cap over it so it'll turn freely. Now coat the motor in rubber coat. You can buy it in cans for dipping tools or in a spray on configuration. Either one will work. The rubber should be over the epoxy and tube that the o-ring is in, but if you get it on the shaft you'll have to remove it after it dries. The O-ring will make the shaft water tight while the rubber coat makes the rest of the motor water tight. If you got the right size shaft with a bit of a spline on it, you might be able to get props that just push on at a hobby shop. If not, you can attach them as shown in this video.
Awesome Video, looking forward to your next video.
Great project. Hope to build an ROV someday too. Thanks for the videos.
Just more than amazing... Genius
I'm impressed by the control box!
Thanx. Be sure to check out my controller box videos. 🤓
An impressive job. Thanks to you I have decided to mint mine. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge
Thank you very much! Hope to see a video of your project too! Have fun. 😊
Awesome job!!
I'm working on building an old fishing skiff right now. Will definitely be building one of these for the boat. Need a claw for it to! Thanks for sharing man nice build.
That's a cute kitten!
That's a good build buddy
smart & simple
Fantastic ❤🎉
Firstly Love this so much. I live in far north Australia. I have a problem that all the rivers and water ocean is filled with sharks crocodiles and the most deadliest jellyfish and sea snakes. I wondered how hard would it be to up the pvc tube size to make it not so bite size? Or is this design tube size easier for buoyancy? also power would be affected? I plan to cover with some anti pigeon wiree so if something tries to nibble it wont and also the teather I would have to maybe use some wire trace maybe? Its a length of wire attatched to shark hooks so they dont bite through it. Anyway love your work thank you
Hello, where I can find schematics to mount the tubes? I have already all cutted, now I have to join it. Thanks, best regards
Can you please tell me bit more about the 12v power pack and where i can get it ?
I really like your lighting setup! Is it possible to integrate an HD 360 camera to your rig and grappling arm?
Everything is possible. But be aware of the weight and balance. No to mention the limited space on the frame.
Круто. Хорошая работа!
Dankeschön! 😀
hi do you have thats drones propell and structure calculation
Im doing this for my college final year project i can clearly understand the making of ROV thank you.But can you please help me with making the controller although i have seen you already posted videos i cant really understand how to do so can you help me with it or post any easy alternative controller video thank you man❤
I want to go to my local (12m max depth, very clear) freshwater fishing lake, drop a homemade ROV into the water with a 8ch (or more, less, your choice) Rx on the surface, recieving the data that is transmitted from and to the ROV, from atop an independently operated RC fishing baitboat. Or better yet, an independent buoy.
I thought of using a winch pulling up a signal cable, an integrated pan/ tilt dropcam acting as a anchor, but that would just sit there...
A ROV is better, but having it tethered to a recieving/ transmitting floater gives it more range than from ashore. Transmitting the Tx signals via 2.4ghz/ video via 5.8ghz from above the surface should work within visual range..
Having the ability to dive down to the bottom with some slack (5m extra will do). Getting towed back by the baitboat towards solid ground if needed. But the best thing with a baitboat... Tow the ROV out, deploy it with a buoy, consisting of a float and Rx/ Vtx. Pick it up later. Attach a single "towing line" as security, with a heavy fishing rod, to ensure a safe retrieval...
Using standard 5.8ghz connection, analog camera images could be sent to the pilot, while HD images could be recorded onboard. Just thinking the most cost effective route here.
this is one of my winter projects. am gathering parts. still trying to decide between arduino or analog controls
I hear ya; for me it started about three years ago also as a winter project. Best way to keep busy in the cold and dark season!
Rather than sawing open a bilge pump get a cartridge motor or hit the casing with a heat gun and it pulls right out.
Nice. Been waiting for more information about your build. Question: How do you fit that 15m tether into the transport case? There doesn't seem to be that much extra room in there :D
Damn, I knew I should have posted that!! It’s actually not that hard. You roll the tether up and squeeze it in front of and behind the ROV with the cables sort of looping around the thruster housing on the top side. Pretty easy actually. 😀
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An excellent build! Great job. Thank you for the video. It looks like the factory seals on the bilge pump motors, and whatever their maximum depth ratings are, will regulate what the maximum depth for your ROV is. Is that correct? On an ROV that I built a few years ago, I used Sevlor trolling motors for the main thrust engines. The factory seals were only rated for around 20 feet, so I installed an additional seal on the shaft of the motor and I was able to get the maximum depth to 300 feet. It has worked great for many years now. I'm in the process now of replacing the Sevlor trolling motors with 3-phase brushless DC motors. They are super light and powerful, and can be directly immersed in the water and do not have any seals. Getting the control logic for the controllers was interesting, but not really too tough. Hopefully I'll have them installed and the ROV running again soon.
If you can take the rotors off the motors you can spray the coils and wiring with rubber coat to keep the water off them. It might make them last longer and is pretty easy.
Are those motors like the ones you find at hobby shops for RC stuff? I wasn't sure if those were reversable.
@@the_omg3242 Yes, you could probably get them at an RC hobby shop.They are the same motors that are used on drones, and they can actually be immersed in salt water. So they are pretty tough. Yes, they can be operated in both directions. Most controllers have built in forward/reverse logic features built into them, but as with any three-phase AC motor, you can also change the rotation direction on a three-phase brushless DC motor by physically swapping any two of the three power leads that go to the motor. That typically that would be controlled by a DPDT relay.
Thank you for another great video. I'm just collecting the parts for my own build. The frame is made (Not permanently put together yet, for adjustments) and using 1100gph motors. I have questions, if you don't mind of course. Would a 12v 7.2mah battery be good enough for a 15mtr cat 6 tether and would cat 6 wires be able to take the current as they look awfully thin?
True, the 1100 gph with 3 amps each will really chew on that battery and will possibly warm up those thin wires, but hey: it’s better than cat 5!
7.2 will not last long - but that also depends on the quality of the battery.
Good start! 😃👍🏻
@@agermangineer I realised That I put 7.2mah on my comment it was actually 7.2ah. Can I ask what power pack you used? and roughly what amps I would need to look for?
@@Over_The_Hill_Phil I knew what you meant. No worries. I used a no-name Chinese 9.6 ah power pack for approximately 30 bucks with a charger. Quite nice actually. Just browse a little on eBay and Amazon and you’ll find something. Lead batteries are a cheap alternative, but they are extremely heavy and require more attention than lithium batteries so kinda keep that in mind.
@@agermangineer Thanks that's great, and thank you for taking the time to reply.
What sizes were the metal mountings you used to mount the motor housings to the frame?
2 cm inner diameter. Same as the frame. The flanges are as big as they come…
lovely. Haw fast can it go I'm wandering if one could use it in a gentile flow/stream
The problem is the tether…. it’s like a long anchor so any current will impede the ROV significantly - even a stiff breeze on the surface.
I’d say it moves at… roughly 20 cm - per second…. Give or take a few…
@@agermangineer thanks for your reply. although it is just a dream at moment I had considered a "Running line" the Kinde of sett up often used for mooring boats .The idea being that the Ambilocal cored drops from some point above the ROV not the bank.
@@johnh539 I experimented with that idea about 2 years with a kind of buoy. My biggest problem was that the ROV then had to drag the floaty / buoy along as well, with very little merit.
Though that’s how some professional ROVs work: a Wi-Fi transmitter floaty that has an umbilical tether to the ROV and communicates with your smartphone. That gives you extraordinary operating range.
So… of course that does work, but for me: way too challenging of course.
I am 444th viuver from India
sry I'm nub but can you tell me whats that yellow tape n why is it being used?
Color foil… just to make it look good.
Could use verbal explanation of what your building and the reasobehind the design.
Can you please provide the detailed list of components used with specifications🙏🙏🙏
This would be greatly appreciated from me as well.
Edited after 1 minute, nevermind, you gave those specs in the video. I'll look before I ask.
What size net float did you use?
Net float?
How many volts do you supply to the drone?
12 Volts.
How many meters long is the power cord?
@@gesonyun9965 check out 14:32 here with the CAT-6 15 m is reasonable…
Hey man, is there any chance I can get a parts list to make it myself?
Hi, well for starters: check out seaperch.org/resources/library/
All alterations are specified in my videos. So feel free to browse around.
@@agermangineer hey man that website just shows the specs for another build, not the one in the video. Or am i just not looking hard enough
@@heathclayton4072 well I posted the dimensions for each piece in the beginning of the video. Most of them are the same size as on the Seaperch Manual, except for the pieces that I added.
So… what else is there? 😀
Can someone help me where does various length PVC pipes go in the frame pls
Like what does 2×10,2 cm mean plss
@@scrubbytubby311 how many of each lenght
@@scrubbytubby311 Commas and periods are reversed between the US and Europe. So 10,2 Eur = 10.2 US.
how much did this cost in total?
Good question… I build these things with leftovers and by means of recycling. But I’d say with 300 bucks you’re in the clear.
Is this build suitable for saltwater?
I certainly hope so…
As mentioned in 12:24 you gotta cope with the higher density of salt water by either reducing the buoyancy or simply by adding weight.
After use in salt water I would shower it off with fresh water just to prevent corrosion of the brass couplings (for example).
Thank you - missed that.
can u give the parts list in inches for pvc
Quick conversions, took about two minutes. PVC assembly isn't all that precise, so this is to the nearest tenth inch or so.
# Main frame:
# 0.787 = 3/4" ? PVC pipes (nominal size does not match ID, OD of PVC pipe in general)
2x 4" = 8
4x 1.5" = 6
4x 1.25" = 5
2x 4.25" = 8.5
2x 2.5" = 5
3x 4.4" = 13.2
2x 4.9" = 9.8
# PVC Joints:
10x 90º = 900
8x T-connector (or more, to allow future extensions)
# "Acryl Glas" Pipe
# 0.787 = 3/4" ?
1x 4.4" = 4.4
2x 4.9" = 9.8
If you can't get acrylic pipe easily, you can try cutting a hole in PVC and potting the LEDs in with lots of epoxy.
Wow! Good work!
Though if you consider covering the LEDs in epoxy, keep in mind the LEDs can get extremely hot, when the resistance is too low and the epoxy can turn a yellow COB-LED brown. Got that from a few other channels. That’s why I wanted to keep as much air around the LEDs as possible.
How deep it can go?
As deep as the tether reaches. Here 15 meters. But you can make it 30 m.
All the way to the bottom! Lol
I flew helicopters in the US Military. We were doing a dog and pony show with some military academy students so this one brainiac oh he knows just ask him, comes up to me. I guess he was their class leader.” Sir, I see that there are 2 engines. What would happen if one engine had a catastrophic failure?” Everybody was looking at me. “ Well ………….that other engine will fly you straight to the crash site………….All of them busted out laughing. As they were leaving one young lady stayed behind and she says” thank you, he tries to embarrass us constantly” I smiled!!!
Dear Angermangineer,
Where is CC on your video? I'm tell you the truth. I'm deaf. Please, you can fix CC on the CZcams. Thank you.
Hey Michael, there is no Audio! All the infos are in the pictures. I didn’t even include much music this time because it seemed disruptive.
The only notable audio is at 18:44: „welcome to the maiden voyage of touch muh hull two! Let’s see if this baby floats…“ followed by a rather idiotic „Hurray!”
Thank you for watching! The next video will have much more audio and I hope the CC works, because I did notice some oddities with that lately on some of the other videos.
How deep can dive?
30 m
Wow nice. Did you modified the seal of the water pump?
@@Kakalikotchanel no, no need. Even when they flood, they are easily replaced.
I can't understand how to measure 10,2 cm
Skill issue
10,2 is the way some weird countries show 10.2. 10.2cm is 102mm.
@@k1ng401 so true… 🤣
You need to do verbal explanation to this. Just do a voice over and add it very simple and you don’t have to redo the video
You know, I thought so too but the CZcams Editor sees that different. I contacted the support and they also said that adding a self made Voiceover is not possible. 🫤
@@agermangineerI can help you with that. If you want to, I can add, enhance and synchronise the audio to the video in a program. I have some experience, so if you want to add audio, write me! (free of course)
i have tryed make ur ROV, but i dont manage to get the wiring to work. could i get some feedback perhapps =) ? from you or anyone els aswell! thx