Dyeing Curly Maple
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2016
- In this video I show you one way to dye curly maple!
Products used:
Keda Dyes: amzn.to/1UiOmzc
Honey Amber TransTint Dye: amzn.to/1ScZLc5
JE moser Honey Amber Dye: amzn.to/1YBuabK
Hake Brush: amzn.to/28JWaH5
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An alternative I"ve been using is clear coat, candy color spray, clear top coat. ALL the the 3D " ribbon cut curl" remains through the color, and shimmers like it's under water! This is why fancy walnut rifle stocks are so stunning, no dyes or stain, just highly polished clear!
Just ran across your video, nice job! I liked seeing all 3 dyes back to back. They all looked pretty good, thank you.
Man I'm so glad you did this video. Been wanting to experience with dyes. I feel comfortable now after watching.
Thanks man! Give it a go, it's super simple.
That blue is awesome.
Sand it between coats and reapply 3 times and itll make the stripes and curls pop even more
Nice job my man that blue and honey would look amazing together
Very nice results, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I’m looking at building a guitar kit and I have my heart set on that blue dye
I have used the blue kedo dye before on curly maple. What I have done to get extra pop is mix a black aniline dye with water at a very strong ratio. I'll coat the wood, sand it, re-apply, sand again (to get the black deeply into the grain) until only the grain stripes are black, but the surface wood is natural. Then I'll mix the blue dye with isopropyl alcohol and apply a few coats. Similar effect, but the grain really pops. One thing to note, you can do something similar with browns and ambers. And even finish the wood with oil based stains. Just apply a single coat of diluted shellac to the piece between your dye and stain. That will stop the wood from looking muddy.
wohhhh incredible result!
+Cactus! workshop thanks!
Wow that blue!
Great demo Sean. I really like the TransTint liquid dyes. Really good penetration. And Love the blue!
Thanks for watching, Guy! Yeah I like their dyes as well but need to buy more lol. The blue was great except for all the bleeding. I called and spoke with Keda about it and he recommended spraying a coat of shellac for the first coat and then do what you want with it but i'm not sure it's worth the trouble, especially on a larger project. But then again, the blue would probably only be used on small stuff like guitars (and my box lol).
I think the blue is my fav. Even with the bleeding issue
Yeah the blue is awesome to look at for sure. I can't wait to try the other 4 colors that came with the Keda dyes pack.
Cool experiment. The one in the middle was definitely my favorite. The other two were just too wild.
Thanks Bruce. I agree that the middle was my favorite for a period finish. I actually went with the blue for my guild box lol.
I thought I recognized it. It definitely looks cool.
just curious how thick was the veneer? What type of glue did you use on the veneer? and did you get any areas the glue bled through the veneer?
great video! one question, did you heat the water for the blue dye too?
Wow! I'd almost have to frame those!
I still have them, That's actually a very cool idea. May route a keyhole in the back and just hang them in my office!
Great results, I wonder if the blue dye was coming off of the tape or the edge of the wood where the Shellac hadn't covered 100%?
I thought that at first but I actually dyed another board without using any tape and applying dye to the whole piece and still had bleeding. Even though it bled, It turned out good, just an annoyance if you use a lot of shellac on your brush and had runs because the runs were blue instead of typical shellac runs.
I use alcohol for raising the grain, it dissipates a lot faster
Wait. Did you just weigh 4 oz of water? Great job. I have the trans tint
Great video, thanks! What was the brush you were using?
It's a 1 1/2 inch hake brush. Thanks for watching!
really cool. I wish I could do stuff like that
You can! Just get some dye, water and a heat source and you are ready to roll.
no way I'm scoring curly maple around here. I do have some mahogany but I'm not trying to dye it
ik the feeling of losing footage. l make it a regular thing now..lol j.k that suxx bro. but it was still a very informative video....i recently purchased some Lacewood and im gonna build the Nakajima shelf u did a while back.i live the look of that thing..
Thanks Joe! I can't wait to see it dude.
Sean from SimpleCove me too. Its alot like leopardwood but no spots..loke a dark orangish redish brown..lol
Is it possible to skip the last step and keep the full sheen?
I think if you had dyed the board black and did a sand back before applying the 3 colors, would have been a good idea
Very nice
Great video.... Really sucks when you lose files. It did not hurt your explanation...
Thanks...
I appreciate it.
So I'm curious about your use of BLO before the shellac. Was that just to make the grain pop more? Or is there some other purpose behind it?
Correct, it was used to pop the grain a bit.
@@Simplecove And the shellac was just to give you a surface you could apply wax to? Any particular reason you went with dewaxed vs waxed shellac? Besides as a sealer, I'm still trying understand the different uses between waxed vs dewaxed shellac as a finish
Never use tap water only distilled water. The minerals in the water react with the taniks in the wood
That's not totally true. Test your tap water and if it doesn't affect the dye then you can use it. If it does, get distilled water. My tap water was perfectly fine.
TransTint dye is not for exterior, what do you recommend to use for exterior?
@Frank Smiley Behlen's Solar-Lux has better color retention.
I’m wondering if there was a reason that you applied all dye, oil, and shellac against the grain and also sanded against the grain.
I didn't sand against the grain.
I think the bleeding with the blue might of been due to the BLO adding a contrasting color. BLO darkens wood as does shellac (I'm not 100% on this so don't quote me) by adding a yellowish or brown tint or tone. This has been my experience as blue is my favorite color and staining or dyeing wood blue is definitely not easy. I've found that Mineral Oil does a better job of keeping blue colors from bleeding than BLO. Water based Polyurethane rather than shellac as well.
Exactly correct!
I think Keda makes the best. Just an opinion. Thanks.
Maybe I just had a bad batch. It did give me great color though. For the price it's hard to beat!
Could I follow these steps on a guitar?
The Royal Ace yes
Can't decide whether I appreciate more the technique or the southern accent. Great video, though. Thanks.
Why heat the water first? And shouldn't one use alcohol diluted dyes on veneer?
Kill Trump I could be wrong, but i think its depends what type of dye you are using. For instance, you would use water in a water based dye and alcohol in an alcohol based dye. This is just what i know when it comes to art supplies and what not, so I could be wrong with this.
Basic chemistry when liquids are heated they react with what's in them faster, meaning that powder is a lot more soluble and will mix in faster and easier.
I hate to be a schoolmarm, but its 'Dyeing' and not 'Dying' ...I thought your wood was on the brink of collapse!
Fixed! Thanks.
Sprays wood with water
Let's dry 6 hours
Well wtf was the point of spraying it then
It's called raising the grain
@@Simplecove that small amount of water you used isn't going to keep the grain raised after 6 hours
@@Simplecove ok so you raised the grain only to sand it down later? Seems like a pointless step to me. Anyway i watch the keda wood dye channel and they never talked about raising the grain. Maybe is a placebo effect in the wood working world.
I raised the grain and sand it back before applying the dye because I used water for mixing the dye. You obviously don't want to sand the surface after you apply the dye otherwise you will remove the dye. raising the grain and sanding it before this step prevents that. If you don't agree with that step, that's fine. I, on the other hand, think it helps give a smoother finish. And I didn't know raised grain has a time limit.... I'm not the only one that will let the water dry completely before sanding it back down using the finer grit I ended with before. Again, do your own research if you disagree.
@@Simplecove I see. Thanks for the clarification