Just an FYI..I just put tweeters into my 2022 F150 Tremor and so everyone knows, the brackets holding the factory ones in, are held by screws, so no grinding needed to remove. Kinda nice and easier
Great videos, thanks! I have a 2015 Ford F150 XLT, 8" Screen, no Sony or Amp. I am going to replace/upgrade all speakers and install the (2) 10" Alpine Sub box and Amp thanks to your videos! I have one question, why did you (and others for reference) decide to put in 6.5" speakers in the front doors instead of the stock 6x9" size speakers? 6.5" vs. 6x9". I hope to hear back, thanks!
This method should be the same for the 2013 f150 right ? I have factory tweeters on the pillars . The only difference I see is the door speaker connector. The new I can see 3 pins, mine is only 2
Just bought a 2022 Powerboost F150 and have already replaced the factory rear door base speakers with the 6.75 Kicker coaxial speakers but I want to put components for the fronts. Am I going to have to put the crossovers in the doors and run speaker wires from the doors to the tweeters on the pillars?
Im looking for ideas on where and how to install a stryker 955 10 meter radio in my 2017 f150 xlt it measures 11x8x2. Would appreciate any ideas you might have.
Great video! I just put a pair of coaxial 6.5" type S alpines in the rear, lack of treble obviously but I didn't want to drill anywhere for the tweeter. I do have a question, though. Did you notice a discernable difference in bass coming from the 6.5" versus the stock 6x9? I used to have the older type s components but only heard a difference with aftermarket head units that had multi-band eq's.
This is why we chose this type of component set as the crossovers were separate for the midrange and tweeter, so we didn't have to run new wiring for an external shared crossover.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I completely understand just curious as to how someone does it. I prefer to put my tweeter in the pillar instead of door but only running 4channel so need the 2 linked
I was curious of this as well. I think my question falls along the same line as yours that I know usually whenever you see a component set you’ll also have the corresponding box that goes with it, which will allow you to increase or decrease treble etc. In the event that somebody had a system such as that do the wires from the a pillar come down into the door which would allow you to utilize the crossover box or would it require speaker wire being run up to the Twitter? Only reason I ask is because I noticed you used a bass blocker on that Twitter, so I was curious as to whether or not that wire fed down into the door along with the mid range. Thank you and great video.
@@Wrensspeedshop so depending on size of crossover I hid mine is the side there is a panel between the sail and dash you can stash the crossover I went active on my tweeters now but wasn’t a bad spot hope that helps
To offer a tad more clarity at the speaker input if your truck came with tweeter in the pillars tie in the crossover at input but make wire longer so you can run it down to hide crossover. Hope this helps,anymore questions feel free to ask. I’ll review this once I take a nap and make sure I’m making sense just got off night shift
Great video bud. Question..I bought some of that soundproofing material. Should I put that behind the speaker bracket or mounts or will that make it stick out too far? Really appreciate your work brother thank you. I bought sound skins material.
you should be fine. But always good practice to check clearance carefully when you reattach the door. Shine a light through the speaker grill to make sure all clears.
Are those the in line crossovers on factory wires for the tweeters. Also what is the ohm load on tweeters ? My 21 f150 the tweeters factory 8 ohm and most tweeters im seeing on markets are around 6-4ohm is it ok to run like that ?
Great video Thanks for sharing! May I ask you something, the speaker in front by manufacture comes 6x9, you put 6.5 because you prefer or the 6x9 aftermarket not fit in the front? (windows issues,etc) I have F150 2016 Lariat Super crew and I want replace the factory speakers, I got the 6.5 to the rear but I read the front need 6.5 not 6x9 so that confusing me, I will appreciate your comments, thanks!!!!
Hi PBAI. Great video. I already have 90% of the pieces that you used, except I am going to use a component pair of Boston Acoustics 6.0 (with crossover and tweeters) that I had for years, but never installed in any vehicle that I have owned ... fingers crossed that they are still clean and not dried out over the years in the basement. My truck is a 2017 F150 Supercrew. Next summer, I am going to amp it up with a 4ch Rockford Fosgate to run the 4 doors and a Soundstream bridged to run a single 8" woofer that I am building right now. Looking at an AudioControl LOC , so as to be able to keep the stock head unit. I've never taken door panels apart, so I ask - what is the real amount of time that I should alot for door disassembly - speaker replacement - and door reassembly (per door) ? And then I usually add at least 15%, for my standard first attempt🙃 Thank-you.
1st door will take you the longest, but follow the video and shouldn't be too bad. Give yourself a Saturday afternoon and you should knock it out in a few hours.
Metra makes a good bracket. I did the same with hertz cento pro 3 way 6x9. It has way too much treble now, it way overpowers the bass. I added soundmat and it didn't help much
You will need bracket adapters regardless for universal aftermarket speakers. You can get OE replacements (like from powerbass) that don’t require adapters, but they also can be more expensive.
Price, especially if the 6.5 can handle aftermarket radio wattage. Got myself since 6.5 alpines components that my aftermarket radio can push. I don't plan on adding an amp for door speakers. I already have a hungry hifonics amp I need to feed.
I've seen other people do it and I also did it. I mounted them in the plastic sails. Also if you're using a crossover in the door, it's way easier cuz it's closer.
Booo, you skipped the hard part running new speaker wires through the door hinge boots. You went the wasy route of just using puny factory wire harness.
It's because we didn't. No need to with the speakers we ran. The tweeters have their own crossover, so we used the factory tweeter leads to power our new tweeters.
Blow speakers as you will be sending frequencies that the speaker cant handle, speaker distorts, you will cause failure. Some speakers have built in crossovers already, so just depends on the brand and model.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I used the Amazon link and bought the alpine speakers that you featured in the video. Could you please spec out the crossover that you used for these tweeters? Thanks!
@@chrisazo1 Always install the crossovers included with your new speakers. The in-line crossovers in the A pillar are the ones that are included with the Alpine speakers.
This should be the same as the 2013 f-150 right ? I have the factory tweeters . The only difference I see is the door speaker connector. The new on is 3 pins mine is 2 pins.
Parts linked in the description!
Very informative video. I just installed mine in less than 2 hours, thanks to the video
Beautiful video truly magnificent quick easy and to the point.
Subscribe!
Just an FYI..I just put tweeters into my 2022 F150 Tremor and so everyone knows, the brackets holding the factory ones in, are held by screws, so no grinding needed to remove. Kinda nice and easier
There wasnt grinding to remove these either
Do you know which wires are for the tweeters in passenger side kick panel
When you pull off the pillar cover for the tweeters, you will see them.
All your videos are very well made, You guy's do a nice job.. Thanks for information on polarity,
Thanks alot. You do good work, and your videos helped me alot with my build.
Great videos, thanks! I have a 2015 Ford F150 XLT, 8" Screen, no Sony or Amp. I am going to replace/upgrade all speakers and install the (2) 10" Alpine Sub box and Amp thanks to your videos! I have one question, why did you (and others for reference) decide to put in 6.5" speakers in the front doors instead of the stock 6x9" size speakers? 6.5" vs. 6x9". I hope to hear back, thanks!
why did you use 6 1/2 over the 6x9 size since factory is 6x9?
sounds really good. did you replace rear door speakers as well for the sound clip at the end or was that with rear stock speaker's?
Yes, all videos on this truck are linked in the description of this video.
Im not a fan of plastic mating up to metal, do you recommend any sound dampner in-between the front speaker bracket and metal door panel?
czcams.com/video/HxMNdh6J_wU/video.htmlfeature=shared
@@ProvoBeastAudio Thank you kindly
This method should be the same for the 2013 f150 right ? I have factory tweeters on the pillars . The only difference I see is the door speaker connector. The new I can see 3 pins, mine is only 2
Just bought a 2022 Powerboost F150 and have already replaced the factory rear door base speakers with the 6.75 Kicker coaxial speakers but I want to put components for the fronts. Am I going to have to put the crossovers in the doors and run speaker wires from the doors to the tweeters on the pillars?
This is the question!
Im looking for ideas on where and how to install a stryker 955 10 meter radio in my 2017 f150 xlt it measures 11x8x2. Would appreciate any ideas you might have.
Do need a crossover
Alpine has the crossover built inline.
Thx man... good video
I prefer replace the factory ones for a 6x9 alpine
Great video! I just put a pair of coaxial 6.5" type S alpines in the rear, lack of treble obviously but I didn't want to drill anywhere for the tweeter. I do have a question, though. Did you notice a discernable difference in bass coming from the 6.5" versus the stock 6x9? I used to have the older type s components but only heard a difference with aftermarket head units that had multi-band eq's.
Can I just replace door speakers without tweeters?
Yes
curious to see this run down to a crossover in the door
This is why we chose this type of component set as the crossovers were separate for the midrange and tweeter, so we didn't have to run new wiring for an external shared crossover.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I completely understand just curious as to how someone does it. I prefer to put my tweeter in the pillar instead of door but only running 4channel so need the 2 linked
I was curious of this as well. I think my question falls along the same line as yours that I know usually whenever you see a component set you’ll also have the corresponding box that goes with it, which will allow you to increase or decrease treble etc. In the event that somebody had a system such as that do the wires from the a pillar come down into the door which would allow you to utilize the crossover box or would it require speaker wire being run up to the Twitter? Only reason I ask is because I noticed you used a bass blocker on that Twitter, so I was curious as to whether or not that wire fed down into the door along with the mid range. Thank you and great video.
@@Wrensspeedshop so depending on size of crossover I hid mine is the side there is a panel between the sail and dash you can stash the crossover I went active on my tweeters now but wasn’t a bad spot hope that helps
To offer a tad more clarity at the speaker input if your truck came with tweeter in the pillars tie in the crossover at input but make wire longer so you can run it down to hide crossover. Hope this helps,anymore questions feel free to ask. I’ll review this once I take a nap and make sure I’m making sense just got off night shift
Great video bud. Question..I bought some of that soundproofing material. Should I put that behind the speaker bracket or mounts or will that make it stick out too far? Really appreciate your work brother thank you. I bought sound skins material.
you should be fine. But always good practice to check clearance carefully when you reattach the door. Shine a light through the speaker grill to make sure all clears.
How much depth space does that door have?
Are those the in line crossovers on factory wires for the tweeters. Also what is the ohm load on tweeters ? My 21 f150 the tweeters factory 8 ohm and most tweeters im seeing on markets are around 6-4ohm is it ok to run like that ?
Great video Thanks for sharing! May I ask you something,
the speaker in front by manufacture comes 6x9, you put 6.5 because you prefer or the 6x9 aftermarket not fit in the front? (windows issues,etc)
I have F150 2016 Lariat Super crew and I want replace the factory speakers, I got the 6.5 to the rear but I read the front need 6.5 not 6x9 so that confusing me, I will appreciate your comments, thanks!!!!
Some people prefer the 6.5’s as they tend to sound better than 6x9’s IMO.
The 6x9 in the front are shallow compared to the back so 6x5 sound better
The original speaker size is 6x9 or 6x8??? and the rear ones what size are they? Thanx for the help.
Sounds Good, its ok to install a 6x9 coaxial speakers rather than a 6x9 Component Speakers, how will affect the sound quality?
Well you are leaving factory audio still in play, so really only replacing half of the issue. Sure, you can still do it, but it's your call.
Where did u hide the component cross over and did u hook this up to a 4 channel amp?
Hi PBAI.
Great video. I already have 90% of the pieces that you used, except I am going to use a component pair of Boston Acoustics 6.0 (with crossover and tweeters) that I had for years, but never installed in any vehicle that I have owned ... fingers crossed that they are still clean and not dried out over the years in the basement.
My truck is a 2017 F150 Supercrew. Next summer, I am going to amp it up with a 4ch Rockford Fosgate to run the 4 doors and a Soundstream bridged to run a single 8" woofer that I am building right now. Looking at an AudioControl LOC , so as to be able to keep the stock head unit.
I've never taken door panels apart, so I ask - what is the real amount of time that I should alot for door disassembly - speaker replacement - and door reassembly (per door) ? And then I usually add at least 15%, for my standard first attempt🙃 Thank-you.
1st door will take you the longest, but follow the video and shouldn't be too bad. Give yourself a Saturday afternoon and you should knock it out in a few hours.
damn i bought 3 way 6 x 9 before even watching this video oh well ill still install it well see how it sounds
Factory speaker is a 6x8, not a 6x9, and without the appropriate bracket, they probably wont fit. Bug good luck with your install.
Metra makes a good bracket. I did the same with hertz cento pro 3 way 6x9. It has way too much treble now, it way overpowers the bass. I added soundmat and it didn't help much
What size are the screws? You are using for the bracket to the speaker
So a 6.5 for the rear of 6.9 for the front (factory specs) is too big/small in aftermarket dimensions? So I’ll have to use an adapter regardless??
You will need bracket adapters regardless for universal aftermarket speakers. You can get OE replacements (like from powerbass) that don’t require adapters, but they also can be more expensive.
These are a decent upgrade from stock without an amp?
Is their a reason to use 6.5 instead of a 6x9,or was it just personal preference?
It was the preference of the customer. We have the 6x9 version in the description.
Why did you choose to go with 6.5 inch speakers over the stock size speakers?
Price, especially if the 6.5 can handle aftermarket radio wattage. Got myself since 6.5 alpines components that my aftermarket radio can push. I don't plan on adding an amp for door speakers. I already have a hungry hifonics amp I need to feed.
Really interested in seeing the sub setup. Is the video out for the subwoofer install?
Linked in the description.
do these have good bass??
Is there a better way to mount the tweeter?
I've seen other people do it and I also did it. I mounted them in the plastic sails. Also if you're using a crossover in the door, it's way easier cuz it's closer.
What is the Sony amp retrain? I have a stock Sony system and want to replace door speakers with these alpines.
Yep, this will work fine.
Was there a big difference from stock?
Big difference!
Booo, you skipped the hard part running new speaker wires through the door hinge boots. You went the wasy route of just using puny factory wire harness.
It's because we didn't. No need to with the speakers we ran. The tweeters have their own crossover, so we used the factory tweeter leads to power our new tweeters.
Do you sell the tweeter bracket you made?
Lol just fabricate your own smh
How inches is the tweeters
1" Tweeter, but including the housing, it's about 2" cutout size
What happens if you don’t add the crossover?
Blow speakers as you will be sending frequencies that the speaker cant handle, speaker distorts, you will cause failure. Some speakers have built in crossovers already, so just depends on the brand and model.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I used the Amazon link and bought the alpine speakers that you featured in the video. Could you please spec out the crossover that you used for these tweeters? Thanks!
On the back of the alpine speakers what are the outer speaker terminals for? Not the middle ones but the outer terminals.
How did you get 75w from the head unit?
We added an amplifier (5 channel amp that also powers a new sub). That video series is linked in the description.
@@ProvoBeastAudio did you install the alpine crossovers or just use the inline-passive crossovers shown in the a-pillar wiring?
@@chrisazo1 Always install the crossovers included with your new speakers. The in-line crossovers in the A pillar are the ones that are included with the Alpine speakers.
This should be the same as the 2013 f-150 right ?
I have the factory tweeters . The only difference I see is the door speaker connector. The new on is 3 pins mine is 2 pins.