I just changed the oil on my ZT3400 and all went well. Breaking loose the top plug with the 1/4 Allen was tough. I bought a new Allen wrench because I was afraid, I was going to strip out the socket with my old one. I use a short pipe as an extension and pulled with a bounce action and it pop off with a loud crack on both sides. I did this first before I took off the filters in case they stripped out, I could still drive it. When I put the filters on, I filled them with oil first to lessen the amount of air in the system. I thought I would lose most of the oil when I screwed them on, but I was surprised to find out I didn't lose hardly any at all. I removed the top plug completely and 2 quarts of oil went in very fast. Then as the oil started to come out the top plug hole, I put the top plug in and filled up the remote tank to the full level. I had to add a little more oil and then it stopped going down. I did the purge procedure as instructed, added a little more oil, and the mower did fine on the first test drive. I think filling the filters with oil really saved me some time purging the air out. 7/25/2024
For anyone that has a filter that their filter wrench wont fit, use a leather belt. put it on the filter the opposite way you would normally wear the belt to remove the filter. Trust me it works
I'm not super experienced with Hydro transmissions. However, based on my experience, the need for *a good purge is extremely important* I followed one of the many YT instructional videos using Stens oil and some generic filters from Amzn. I followed the same steps as you and cycled the levers 8-10 times forward and back, and it growled like a cat under load. Each cycle was maybe 2 seconds fwd and 2 seconds in reverse. After a lot of head scratching I changed the filters again (lost the oil) thinking they may have been too restrictive. This time I used Hydro Gear filters and SuperTech 20W-50 V-Twin full synthetic oil because that's what I had, and it's very good oil. UOA reports show zinc at 1200PPM. I followed the same purge steps with the engine at 1/3 throttle, wheels off, disengaged, but this time I cycled the levers *slowly* waiting about 5 -6 seconds and stopping for a few seconds at neutral. Next I engaged the axles and cycled 10 times again, slowly. I mounted the tires and took it for a spin. It was quiet and the steering was very smooth and responsive. I think the problem with the first oil change was not an issue with the generic filters, but with the purging process where I cycled too quickly. This is all just a guess. I don't know much about these transmissions and have no idea what else it could have been.
I saw a video somewhere of a hydro gear tech doing this. He drained it by taking off filters. He refilled through the vents with a 11/16 fitting with a small hose fitting coming off it with a length of tygon tuning coming down. The tube went to a simple hand plungle pump that threadeded on top of his oil container. he pumped till full, reinstalled vent plug, made sure reseervoir was at low cool mark, then purged. I'm going to try to find that fill fitting and pump.
I have to do the first hydro service on my Exmark Quest S 50",. Their manual doesn't show where the vent plug is. Not even certain what model the transaxle is. I think it's a 2200. Thanks for this.
The way I see it: 1) loosen up the cap of the reservoir 2) Take the bold off 3) take the filter off to drain 4) Bleed My question is this: Why do we have to take the bolt off if the filling will be from the reservoir? Hope someone can help me on this!!!
By leaving the bolts out, you will know when each transaxle is full and also allows the transaxles to vent air (like what the author said) while filling according to the manual. You are supposed to put the plugs in when you see fluid running out of the holes. After that, continue filling the reservoir with oil until it reaches the FULL COLD line. After this, you start the mower and proceed with the "purging" procedure.
I found a spot of something under my sealed hydro on my Ariens Edge. It was clear, thick and sticky......it definitely didn't look like 20w50 motor oil. Do you happen to know if they use a different type of oil in the non serviceable ones?
You said 100hrs. How many years has it been? I have a bad boy Maveric same Kawasaki, but the ZT3200 hydro gears. I'm beginning my 3rd year and mine has a tick over 40 hours. I may do mine before the 75-100hrs that it calls for just due to time.
@jimknowlton342 Ok cool thanks for the heads up. I only have 5 acres. I would say about 2 of them, maybe a little over 2 get mowed. I'm very particular about maintaining this thing. So I think by June I'm swapping out the fluid and filters..... I'm a heavy dude, my yard has hills, and I've used it to grade my 75yrd gravel driveway with one of those dr power grader, which has unearthed some boulders. It's almost brought the mower to a stop so my fluid is probably over due. Thanks again.
I don't know either. A check of their 2011 service manual shows no hits for zinc or synthetic. It's possible that recommendation has been made since then. Thanks for sharing.
I just changed the oil on my ZT3400 and all went well. Breaking loose the top plug with the 1/4 Allen was tough. I bought a new Allen wrench because I was afraid, I was going to strip out the socket with my old one. I use a short pipe as an extension and pulled with a bounce action and it pop off with a loud crack on both sides. I did this first before I took off the filters in case they stripped out, I could still drive it.
When I put the filters on, I filled them with oil first to lessen the amount of air in the system. I thought I would lose most of the oil when I screwed them on, but I was surprised to find out I didn't lose hardly any at all.
I removed the top plug completely and 2 quarts of oil went in very fast. Then as the oil started to come out the top plug hole, I put the top plug in and filled up the remote tank to the full level. I had to add a little more oil and then it stopped going down.
I did the purge procedure as instructed, added a little more oil, and the mower did fine on the first test drive. I think filling the filters with oil really saved me some time purging the air out. 7/25/2024
Thanks for the video, changed hydro oil out yesterday and it went pretty easy.
For anyone that has a filter that their filter wrench wont fit, use a leather belt. put it on the filter the opposite way you would normally wear the belt to remove the filter. Trust me it works
I'm not super experienced with Hydro transmissions. However, based on my experience, the need for *a good purge is extremely important*
I followed one of the many YT instructional videos using Stens oil and some generic filters from Amzn. I followed the same steps as you and cycled the levers 8-10 times forward and back, and it growled like a cat under load. Each cycle was maybe 2 seconds fwd and 2 seconds in reverse.
After a lot of head scratching I changed the filters again (lost the oil) thinking they may have been too restrictive. This time I used Hydro Gear filters and SuperTech 20W-50 V-Twin full synthetic oil because that's what I had, and it's very good oil. UOA reports show zinc at 1200PPM.
I followed the same purge steps with the engine at 1/3 throttle, wheels off, disengaged, but this time I cycled the levers *slowly* waiting about 5 -6 seconds and stopping for a few seconds at neutral.
Next I engaged the axles and cycled 10 times again, slowly. I mounted the tires and took it for a spin. It was quiet and the steering was very smooth and responsive.
I think the problem with the first oil change was not an issue with the generic filters, but with the purging process where I cycled too quickly.
This is all just a guess. I don't know much about these transmissions and have no idea what else it could have been.
Very helpful! Thank you
I saw a video somewhere of a hydro gear tech doing this. He drained it by taking off filters. He refilled through the vents with a 11/16 fitting with a small hose fitting coming off it with a length of tygon tuning coming down. The tube went to a simple hand plungle pump that threadeded on top of his oil container. he pumped till full, reinstalled vent plug, made sure reseervoir was at low cool mark, then purged. I'm going to try to find that fill fitting and pump.
Best video I have found! Currently can’t get those 11/16 bolts off. What a pain
Thank you! Good luck, there might be a slot for you to access them from above them. The left one was harder than the right one for me.
Thanks alot of good information.
Think I'm going to pay someone to do this.
Thanks
Great video.
I have to do the first hydro service on my Exmark Quest S 50",. Their manual doesn't show where the vent plug is. Not even certain what model the transaxle is. I think it's a 2200. Thanks for this.
Great video
The way I see it:
1) loosen up the cap of the reservoir
2) Take the bold off
3) take the filter off to drain
4) Bleed
My question is this:
Why do we have to take the bolt off if the filling will be from the reservoir?
Hope someone can help me on this!!!
Good question, maybe it allows air out or something?
By leaving the bolts out, you will know when each transaxle is full and also allows the transaxles to vent air (like what the author said) while filling according to the manual. You are supposed to put the plugs in when you see fluid running out of the holes. After that, continue filling the reservoir with oil until it reaches the FULL COLD line. After this, you start the mower and proceed with the "purging" procedure.
I found a spot of something under my sealed hydro on my Ariens Edge. It was clear, thick and sticky......it definitely didn't look like 20w50 motor oil. Do you happen to know if they use a different type of oil in the non serviceable ones?
Hello, sorry I do not.
You said 100hrs. How many years has it been? I have a bad boy Maveric same Kawasaki, but the ZT3200 hydro gears. I'm beginning my 3rd year and mine has a tick over 40 hours. I may do mine before the 75-100hrs that it calls for just due to time.
We mow about 6 acres every couple weeks. This was the start of year 3, and we were probably at 80 hours.
@jimknowlton342
Ok cool thanks for the heads up. I only have 5 acres. I would say about 2 of them, maybe a little over 2 get mowed. I'm very particular about maintaining this thing. So I think by June I'm swapping out the fluid and filters..... I'm a heavy dude, my yard has hills, and I've used it to grade my 75yrd gravel driveway with one of those dr power grader, which has unearthed some boulders. It's almost brought the mower to a stop so my fluid is probably over due. Thanks again.
How much oil did it take
Took very close to the recommended amount, can’t recall what it was, maybe a quart each or something? Can’t recall the exact amount.
HydroGear told me to only use full synthetic high zinc oil. I don't know if that is what you used.
I don't know either. A check of their 2011 service manual shows no hits for zinc or synthetic. It's possible that recommendation has been made since then. Thanks for sharing.
Hydro Gear should sell you the oil they recommend - I would think.
What model year is your rideon
I bought it in 2021
Can you use any oil filter
Good question, I'm not sure I can answer that properly.
I love you
I'm blushing
@@jimknowlton342 I'm nauseous!🤔
Great video