So much different from bosch m pump. Awesome video. Always wondered how these worked on my ford idi. Looks like that groove in the governor that increases fuel through the metering valve is the only way to really increase fueling. Unlike bigger plunger elements and barrels in an m pump.
There is a timing plate on the side of the Roosa Master where you can access the rotating assembly. Rotate the plunger rotor around and you will see a 5/32nds hex bolt that holds down a flat spring. Turning that will adjust spring tension on the plunger assembly allowing for greater travel and therefore fueling. That is how you "turn up" a Roosa Master (Stanadyne DB2 and whatnot) pump. Probably not a secret a Tech Sgt wants his guys to know. Anything that came with those pumps runs best set at OEM settings. Fiddling with it just makes clouds of smoke and everything all-around worse. It's a utilitarian tractor pump for chugga-chugga diesel engines. It is very good at that. In fact the ASME has it listed as one of it's landmark inventions. Just let that beautiful baby be what she is.
...this is where the "FM" happens, as the Senior techs would say, the ones that were training me in the 90's, at G.E. Computer Services. 🤔 I had no idea what that meant, until I asked. His reply was, F@$King Magic 😂 Nice job with the video. ✌🏼
This is a great illustration of the function of a diesel pump, especially for us who have little or no knowledge of how they work. My question is this illustration for the pump of any "specific" diesel pump as I am having problems as to why my 94 IDI turbo ford engine won't start. Love to hear your input.
Yes, your 7.3L diesel should have this exact same fuel injection pump (DB2). It really depends when you said it won't start. Have you narrowed it down to being the fuel delivery issue and not from other systems? What exactly is it doing? Cranking or no power period?
@@akaQ9 Thank you so much for asking the question. When I bought the truck about 18 months ago it ran strong as heck. I decided to go as far as I could in restoring the truck so very few miles had been put on the truck since then. What developed was It would always start fine and idol well. However, depending...I could drive it a mile or two and it would feel like it was running out of fuel and then crap out. After cranking it over and over it would come back to life, but God only knew it would continue to run. At that moment the fuel filter light would come on. I had just changed the filter so I knew there was nothing wrong with it. In changing it I noticed the filter was only half full but didn't know if that was normal or not (so little knowledge of these engines) I thought it might be the lift pump so replaced it. I know that always adds air to the system so lots of cranking is needed. After going through 2 new batteries charging them cranking charging cranking over and over must have fried them so have replaced them with the biggest best I could find. I had a conversation with a super nice channel youtube.com/@dieselcare he is a super nice guy and went to lengths to try and solve my problem. I had an ill spell but am back am track. So the question is after replacing the lift pump (probably didn't need to) and the fuel filter remains only half full there must be an air intrusion before the lift pump? I hope to God it's not the pickups in the tank. I think that means removing the bed? I hope not. Thanks, Rich
@@johnnyohness First thought is you got a coming in somewhere. It's tough to say and diagnose without looking at it in person. It looks like you already had someone look at it too, so alot of things have probably been eliminated out of the way during troubleshooting. You could test the injection pump. It could possibly be that you're having issues when the truck in under a load. Check the pressure on the injection pump by doing low and high pressure testing. If the pump pressures is not within the specs, your truck would crap out during load (accelerating, towing, going uphill, etc.). Sometimes this also don't occur until your engine is warmed up, so that mile or two that you mentioned could be that timeframe where you don't feel any issues, but then once warmed up, the injection pump and fuel system also warms up. Things don't come out until metals become hot. It's possible this is what's happening.
@@AtomsForFuelI found that the fuel strainers in both tanks for the feed had deteriorated blocking the fuel feed to the engine. A 14.00 fix but had to remove the bed of the truck to access them
Not much difference from this. Once you remove the gov housing (top cover), you should be able to rotate the pump and peak inside under the springs, there's a hole. Rotate the rotor until you see the adjusting plate (leaf spring), there's a bolt holding it on the rotor base that you can use a big/long allen key to adjust the fuel delivery. Basically, what you're adjusting is how wide or narrow that leaf spring stops the rollers inside, the narrower you go, the faster the delivery rate is.
I pulled the lines from the top of the injectors and I’m not getting fuel from the pump but I am getting fuel into the pump is this a sign of a bad pump ?
there could alot of factors. There's a "delivery valve" that could be clogged up. It's a common issue with this pump especially with crap fuel or the engine wasn't started in a while. Pull the line from the outlet or discharge fitting(s) of where you're not getting fuel from. Depending on the year of the pump/engine, you might have delivery valves on each outlet or discharge fittings, I think it's pre 94 pumps that have one delivery valve in the rotor. I could have the year wrong, but newer model (not electronic) will have delivery valves per fittings, so it's easier to fix. Follow the fuel in the video and backtrack the flow if you're not getting fuel. You might have to overhaul the pump and clean it.
@@KANGGOOEv94 two wires on top cover (governor housing), one in the middle is for the energized-to-run (ETR) solenoid, this will open up the metering valve inside when you energized the solenoid (when you turn the ignition switch on), this allows fuel to go through and to the rotor that will get pressurized and pushed out to the discharge fittings then to the nozzles (injectors). The other wire is for the cold advanced solenoid, used to advanced the timing when the engine is cold when you first start the engine up. Once the engine reaches operating temp, this gets de-energized and your fuel timing goes back to normal.
Lighten up. It's not so bad. I use it for teaching younger gen mechanics and majority don't complain. I tried it without background music, alot of 'em fallin' asleep.
Incredible video and easy to understand. Thank you for sharing it with us !
Went through port hueneme years ago had to come back for this info thanks!
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Great video . thanks for posting
Great visuals easy to understand.
So much different from bosch m pump. Awesome video. Always wondered how these worked on my ford idi. Looks like that groove in the governor that increases fuel through the metering valve is the only way to really increase fueling. Unlike bigger plunger elements and barrels in an m pump.
There is a timing plate on the side of the Roosa Master where you can access the rotating assembly. Rotate the plunger rotor around and you will see a 5/32nds hex bolt that holds down a flat spring. Turning that will adjust spring tension on the plunger assembly allowing for greater travel and therefore fueling. That is how you "turn up" a Roosa Master (Stanadyne DB2 and whatnot) pump.
Probably not a secret a Tech Sgt wants his guys to know. Anything that came with those pumps runs best set at OEM settings. Fiddling with it just makes clouds of smoke and everything all-around worse. It's a utilitarian tractor pump for chugga-chugga diesel engines. It is very good at that. In fact the ASME has it listed as one of it's landmark inventions. Just let that beautiful baby be what she is.
This is great! Glad that you used your real voice instead of those horrible robot voices. Good animation! Great job
...this is where the "FM" happens, as the Senior techs would say, the ones that were training me in the 90's, at G.E. Computer Services. 🤔 I had no idea what that meant, until I asked. His reply was, F@$King Magic 😂
Nice job with the video. ✌🏼
Best explanation ! Big thanks!
Best explanation video of diesel injector pump!
Thanks for sharing!
thanks for the video
think you very much for this video
muito top esse video
Thanks for explaining all the details about the pump what it does
Thank thank you sir
very nice video
Semma
Great
Good job.
pena que aqui no no Brasil as peças são muito caras.
This is a great illustration of the function of a diesel pump, especially for us who have little or no knowledge of how they work. My question is this illustration for the pump of any "specific" diesel pump as I am having problems as to why my 94 IDI turbo ford engine won't start. Love to hear your input.
Yes, your 7.3L diesel should have this exact same fuel injection pump (DB2). It really depends when you said it won't start. Have you narrowed it down to being the fuel delivery issue and not from other systems? What exactly is it doing? Cranking or no power period?
@@akaQ9 Thank you so much for asking the question. When I bought the truck about 18 months ago it ran strong as heck. I decided to go as far as I could in restoring the truck so very few miles had been put on the truck since then. What developed was It would always start fine and idol well. However, depending...I could drive it a mile or two and it would feel like it was running out of fuel and then crap out. After cranking it over and over it would come back to life, but God only knew it would continue to run. At that moment the fuel filter light would come on. I had just changed the filter so I knew there was nothing wrong with it. In changing it I noticed the filter was only half full but didn't know if that was normal or not (so little knowledge of these engines) I thought it might be the lift pump so replaced it. I know that always adds air to the system so lots of cranking is needed. After going through 2 new batteries charging them cranking charging cranking over and over must have fried them so have replaced them with the biggest best I could find. I had a conversation with a super nice channel youtube.com/@dieselcare he is a super nice guy and went to lengths to try and solve my problem. I had an ill spell but am back am track. So the question is after replacing the lift pump (probably didn't need to) and the fuel filter remains only half full there must be an air intrusion before the lift pump? I hope to God it's not the pickups in the tank. I think that means removing the bed? I hope not. Thanks, Rich
@@johnnyohness First thought is you got a coming in somewhere. It's tough to say and diagnose without looking at it in person. It looks like you already had someone look at it too, so alot of things have probably been eliminated out of the way during troubleshooting. You could test the injection pump. It could possibly be that you're having issues when the truck in under a load. Check the pressure on the injection pump by doing low and high pressure testing. If the pump pressures is not within the specs, your truck would crap out during load (accelerating, towing, going uphill, etc.). Sometimes this also don't occur until your engine is warmed up, so that mile or two that you mentioned could be that timeframe where you don't feel any issues, but then once warmed up, the injection pump and fuel system also warms up. Things don't come out until metals become hot. It's possible this is what's happening.
@@johnnyohnessyou have a fuel supply issue because air is getting somewhere in your system
@@AtomsForFuelI found that the fuel strainers in both tanks for the feed had deteriorated blocking the fuel feed to the engine. A 14.00 fix but had to remove the bed of the truck to access them
How to adjust the fuel delivery of mccormick perkins tractor?
Not much difference from this. Once you remove the gov housing (top cover), you should be able to rotate the pump and peak inside under the springs, there's a hole. Rotate the rotor until you see the adjusting plate (leaf spring), there's a bolt holding it on the rotor base that you can use a big/long allen key to adjust the fuel delivery. Basically, what you're adjusting is how wide or narrow that leaf spring stops the rollers inside, the narrower you go, the faster the delivery rate is.
I pulled the lines from the top of the injectors and I’m not getting fuel from the pump but I am getting fuel into the pump is this a sign of a bad pump ?
there could alot of factors. There's a "delivery valve" that could be clogged up. It's a common issue with this pump especially with crap fuel or the engine wasn't started in a while. Pull the line from the outlet or discharge fitting(s) of where you're not getting fuel from. Depending on the year of the pump/engine, you might have delivery valves on each outlet or discharge fittings, I think it's pre 94 pumps that have one delivery valve in the rotor. I could have the year wrong, but newer model (not electronic) will have delivery valves per fittings, so it's easier to fix. Follow the fuel in the video and backtrack the flow if you're not getting fuel. You might have to overhaul the pump and clean it.
@@akaQ9 I got it! there was no power to the pump thx for the replay
@@KANGGOOEv94 two wires on top cover (governor housing), one in the middle is for the energized-to-run (ETR) solenoid, this will open up the metering valve inside when you energized the solenoid (when you turn the ignition switch on), this allows fuel to go through and to the rotor that will get pressurized and pushed out to the discharge fittings then to the nozzles (injectors). The other wire is for the cold advanced solenoid, used to advanced the timing when the engine is cold when you first start the engine up. Once the engine reaches operating temp, this gets de-energized and your fuel timing goes back to normal.
Why the strip club soundtrack?
There’s nothing strip club about that song… if you know what song it is.
Original vid: czcams.com/video/DCPWHv2jJZE/video.html&ab_channel=adrossi85
video source credited at the end of my video. Had to make my own version when teaching to the newer generation.
ممكن عرض الفيديو بلغة العربية
...go to Settings ⚙
select >Captions,
then >Auto translate,
and scroll up to locate >Arabic subtitles 🤔
Hope this helps. ✌🏼
Zzz
I wish you would remove the annoying background music !.
Lighten up. It's not so bad. I use it for teaching younger gen mechanics and majority don't complain. I tried it without background music, alot of 'em fallin' asleep.
"Look, I just flipped the switch" song lolol
I really enjoyed the music. Much much better than 90% of how to videos.
This is a John Deere video