Why I don’t use a lanyard personal sport climbing even though they’re great!
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Lanyards are great, no they really are, honestly, and in this video I tell you why they're great. I'll also tell you why I never carry them when personal climbing. Work that one out!
Please do fire away with any questions...
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Lanyards... love em or never use one?
Locking quickdraw is a great option! Keeps the versatility and versatility of the quick draw with the added safety and peace of mind of locking miners.
I've never used one. I always carry a double sling over my shoulder because I don't like looking cool. The great thing about a sling is that it can serve more purposes than a lanyard.
One thing to avoid slack and problems with dynamic shockloading: Petzl Connect adjust! I really love it!
I was resently trying it for route dogging and saw it not locking the rope completely. On a slab route there is a possibility of the rock to push the "Reverso" part, so it was letting a bit of rope through. Solution - just get a bit higher so you change the angle. Also didn't like how hard it was to lengthen it. Nice system if you get used to it.
rampel1 I’m using the adjust for about 3 years now and never had the problem, that it lengthened itself. Yes, sometimes it’s hard to lengthen the adjust, but for that reason I lengthen it before I start the next route.
I am a big fan of lanyards, love my Connect! They're definitely a mega option :)
@@JBMountainSkills Agree, I wouldn't say what I saw in this one moment is something that is a downside or a shortcoming of the Connect. I was a combination of glue-in possition, the rocks, etc. It is a well designed lanyard. I just wanted to mention it as something to be aware of.
@@rampel1 my understanding is that the slippage through the device adds a lot of dynamic absorbsion in the occurrence of a fall.
I think you've convinced me to carry on using my lanyard ;-) Seriously though, it's a personal decision. I know I don't climb enough not to make mistakes and the lanyard helps me that way. Out of interest, you larks foot your sling around your belay loop, what can't you do that with a lanyard? Or do you leave your sling attached while climbing? I know a sling takes up less room but it's still fiddly to unwrap, attach to belay point, knot, attach locker, etc. thoughts?
I'm glad! It's no bad thing to stick with a lanyard!
With my lanyard it's better to tie in because then it's in both points and it would have to have a loop in the end to be larks footed, but some lanyards do terminate in a loop so they are larks footed into the harness.
If and when I am using a lanyard I climb with it attached, seems like more of a faff, personally, to put them on at the top or partway up.
@@JBMountainSkills Agreed - just a quick question, when you're using a sling, do you leave it tied in or do you tie it in when you're at the top? Does it get in the way in the way you said a lanyard does or do you have to larks foot the sling in when you're at the top etc? p.s. I'm really enjoying the series :-)
Tim Parkin glad you’re enjoying them.
I leave it larksfooted in the whole time. It gets in the way as much as a lanyard does - which might annoy some people but not others.
@@JBMountainSkills p.s. I can see both sides. I hate the 'mess' of a lanyard while climbing but love the utility otherwise... grrr
Yeah, as someone else mentioned really made my mind to continue with my PAS setup. Lately I've been using the beta stick a lot for working on routes that are on my limit and every time using my PAS. Couple of friends just use draws and every time have to be careful for uncliping like described in the video. I am always happy about the relative idiot proof (no such thing as 100% idiot proof but still it's close) solution of my PAS and locking biners. Either way cool video and I really like the presentation. I think the best skill is to know your options and use what you have on you.
Glad you liked the video!
I agree that if you want belt and braces, use a lanyard, they really are ideal for their intended purpose :)
“You can do what I do. Use your quick draws, perfectly safe…with good judgment and good knowledge “ -climbing expert.
Hi new climber here! I have neither knowledge or good judgment. So you recommend the lanyard and just be okay with a bit of “faff “ ?
Yes, definitely. Lanyards are a great belt and braces bit of kit.
I use a daisy chain or a piece of 1 inch webbing tied as a sling/quick draw (old school style). Both work fine for me since they both wrap up.
I really like using a lanyard, but.... I use an orange Petzl one and my boyfriend's sports rope is exactly the same colour orange and I'm convinced that this is an accident waiting to happen. I haven't let myself overthink this and maybe I'm just too fussy about colours being important, but why not make them a colour your rope would never be so you could never grab the wrong one?! Great video - nicely thought provoking.
They do a blue one now too!
Agree. I'm in exactly the same position and did get muddled at the top of a climb once. Just have to be extra vigilant now when using that rope 😳
Great videos, learn heaps!! Ha Ha Ha, if you climb well, and better even, hard, you look cool no matter what, even with a prusik and a lanyard in your harness !!! I love my lanyard, sport and trad, part of my harness and I look sooo cool, haha, not even notice it under my legs, and I find the redundant harness loop very conforting and useful. If you carry it with just enough slack, but not too much, and attached to your back loop, you don't feel it when you load the harness or fall.
I was taught by Adrian Berry and Gaz Parry to only carry quickdraws up a sport climb, for similar reasons to your preference, plus if you're trying to take a qd off your harness to clip whilst pumped on an onsight, you're not going to end up finding yourself with a lanyard or screwgate in your hand.
I do have a prussic 'hanging off me' when I sport climb, because I always like to abseil after cleaning up at the top, it's just more fun than being belayed back down. Unless you are saying not to bother with a prussic when abseiling?
I'd always back up an ab. But I wouldn't ever ab off a sport route under normal circumstances, unless not lowering of fixed gear is a local ethic.
Personally I think it's safer to be lowered, and just more simple. But if you enjoy it who cares?!
Maybe an idea for a 10 min chat is to show the training board and how you put it together. I fancy making one
I'm not sure my DIY skills are shareable, they're pretty dire!
Personally i think lanyards are way more efficient especially when your pumped out of you mind at thre belay point. Used a knotted sling up until trying a lanyard yesterday tons better and way more safer in all situations. As for the extra weight not a problem as im a trad climber at heart
Ha ha... I haven't been able to leave the ground with an odd number of draws for many years now! It means nothing but it freaks me out and something I came up with in my own toy brain when I began climbing. As well, Left shoe on first and never ever climb with money on you, not even a penny in your pocket. Weird works wonders!
I hate the fact I have these habits, but just accept them!
Very interesting and insightful video Jez. Still undetermined about whether to take one or not 😀
If you currently use one and are happy, why not stay with it? Glad it's provoked some thought!
Quickdraw are static protection gear, normally use with a dynamic rope, so it is not a problem. I wonder in that case if climber move up and get some slack, would forces could be dangerously too big for that static protection in case of fall ??
Gonna have to object to "definitely don't have prussik's on a single pitch, its not cool." You're influencing a heap of newbs who probably should have self rescue, or safe, backed-up rapelling (for which a prussik or sling is very helpful), at top of mind, right?
Is there not a sport scenario where you would want a prussik loop ? E.g your belay passes out and you need to ab down?
For sure a slim chance, all about weighing up the likelihood etc :)
Please tell us more about looking cool. You're showing off your skills while standing at the base of your stairs; are there no actual armchairs available?
It was pretty hard to get out to the crag with U.K. on lockdown.
have you thought about using a locking biner on the quickdraw for your PAS, maybe like the Grivel double gate one or a twist lock, just a little bit more protection than a standard, my 2 cents if your going to use a quickdraw
I just bring a 60 cm sling in an alpine draw and then it’s a lanyard and a alpine draw so it’s out of your way (just put it in the back)
I don’t know much, & I gave a “thumbs up” but I believe that you should not put knots in dyneema slings.
Depends on the use. In this instance it’s not remotely an issue. Worst case still good for 11kn.
Why not clove hitch into a quick draw or a locker on the bolt or chain? Less gear, adjustable, and less likely to unclip yourself? Would that be acceptable?
That'd work :)
Like that idea. if you're rethreading it could be a bit awkward as it's part of the system you're working with (rather than an independent anchor like the other options). But I'm definitely going to try it.
Jezz, could you point me in the direction of the knot you tied into? Slow mo! Coffee on me and a pint eh!
Here’s a link to a video and a link to buy me a coffee 😉 www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain
czcams.com/video/-ciyu7D-DwU/video.html
Isn’t it better to develop a ‘drill’? Same method every time, so that ‘mistakes’ are avoided? Just a thought.
Worrying about looking cool and you use a Clipstick! The most uncool thing on the planet! Sorry, but that was an open goal! Cheers and thank's for the upload!
yup, no lanyard for me unless multi pitch sport climbing
Really interesting Jez. I wasn’t expecting that. I started using a lanyard last summer, ( I was using a quick draw) because I felt a bit more secure if I had to do something that meant that there was a possibility of me unweighting my attachment as my focus was on something else. I suppose because I made that conscious decision I have just got used to it being around my waist. I am careful about where it sits ie. it doesn’t get in the way of the q. draws.
I absolutely think lanyards are ace, they are definitely more secure!
Nicely explained Jez. hm... I must say I am a fan of lanyards. It does give me a peace of mind. I have used QDs few times and I am still deciding if I like it or not. Funny enough, within a week I came across 2 sources in regards to this topic. One was your video and the other one was a story of a Polish climber who was fidgeting with a carabiner while lowering off and then the QD unclipped and that made me think. I am attaching the clip so you can see (you can skip to 0:13" for close up): czcams.com/video/tITPqYnnvYY/video.html
Scary but also you have explained your circumstances that lead to the fall and if I keep the certain 'rules' that need to be followed, I should be fine (?).
Don't get me wrong, lanyards are great tools that are definitely safer than using QD's!
I think as you say, as long as you understand the issues of just using a QD like I do, and use them appropriately it's all good.
Hmm, I always feel safer with a lanyard for some reason!
I've seen people using the last quickdraw below the anchor and the one on the anchor to secure themselfes on 12m or something routes in Frankenjura...that would be a grounder when the draw unclips
For sure, have to be super careful if you're not using a locking attachment.
I'm more concerned that you don't carry a prussik? lol, maybe the climbs are more adventurous here, but I wouldn't want to be 30m off the ground with no descent/ascent kit
Depends where I'm climbing, but on standard single pitch sport, I don't carry them. Something adventurous, I deffo would :)
What is a lanyard? Ahh, 5 min in I find out. ;)
Still happy times though... ha ha...
Oh, I use 6mm cord with a prusik and x2 fishermans.
That's what I use too!