Whirlpool Microwave Range-hood Light Won't Turn off
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- How to fix a Whirlpool microwave range-hood light that won't turn off and stays on by replacing a triac on the control board. Requires soldering.
Whirlpool Microwave Model# W10848084
Triacs in this video - amzn.to/3zL5Ixy - Jak na to + styl
Some appliance repair company stated my board couldn't be fixed. I followed you video and the repair worked. Thank you
My light always stays on. I was going to buy a new control panel. Now I can replace only the defective component. Not only do I save money, but I like the idea of not being wasteful by replacing a lot of components that are still good. Thanks AMP! 👍
Thanks for this! I did the same thing and shorted the circuit replacing bulb on 2020 KitchenAid. Followed your instructions and now works perfectly! $8.45 vs $300-$400+. And yes, I will remember to unplug the oven next time changing bulb! Bonus was I learned how to solder a little bit 😊😊.
Fantastic. Fixed my Maytag. Works great. It even fixed the issue I was having with the clock not working correctly. Only showed a dash. After replacing the Triac I was able to set the time and it stays. Thanks.
Life saver!! Replaced my Triac today, fixed my problem and the light is now working.😂😂 Thank you for making this video
Clear, and concise. I am happy to have a light while cooking again. Thank you for making this video.
Thank you for this video! MY light stopped working. After trying a new socket I decided to look at the control board after seeing this video. My whirlpool has the very exact board as the one you're doing this video on down to the part/rev number @(2:25). In my case the triac had burned up, no schematic needed to see the issue. Used your link, ordered the part and did the swap next day. Cost 8 bucks and some change to repair, thankfully Amazon took the socket back. This was spot on. I made the mistake of not unplugging the micro to swap the bulb, I didn't know I had to. Like other's have mentioned, my light had the glass separate from the base then I heard a pop when it happened, then maybe a couple of minutes later I smelled an electric smell and the light was out. That was the triac taking a dump. Lesson learned.
I fixed this issue with the replacement of the TRIAC, as advised for $8, instead of replacing the whole control board for $120! The only thing is, my microwave unit was newer, and I had to refer to the schematic to identify the right TRIAC. My control board had 2 of the same type, but once I followed the schematic line from the Hood Lamp to the correct TRIAC, I selected the correct one to replace. Works perfectly now!
Hell ya ! Glad you got it working!!
I cant find a Triac 7104???
Can not find 7104 anywhere , little help?
@@mgbgt7156 did you LOOK? amazon
perfect timing, I just moved and this is happening on our microwave. Will work on this over the thanksgiving holiday and report back!!!
Nice! That would be awesome if you could let us know how it turns out :)
Just fixed my IKEA/Whirlpool microwave/hood by replacing the triac, just as you demonstrated! Thanks so much…saved me probably a few hundred bucks since it’s out of warranty! And now I have 9 more backup triacs if it blows again. I think it was $10 for 10 count BT136 600 from BOJACK. Thank you!
Hell ya!
This is a great teaching video for those of us that come to rely on CZcams University. My nephew’s microwave is identical to this in the video so hopefully we can fix it. Just need to learn how to solder. However, as I read on I find that replacing incandescent bulb with LED bulb the light still won’t go off because of the replacement. So…..as long as it doesn’t hurt anything…I guess I will leave it alone.
Thank you!
I put in a new bulb a few months ago and it burned out after only a few days. I just replaced it with a new bulb and I couldn't turn it off. I found your previous video, and then came over here. Thanks for the info!!
Thanks for checking it out headly21!
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro Appreciate your video. My hood light went out, and I replaced the bulb. No way to shut off the new bulb. Luckily mine is still in warranty, so hopefully no charge to fix it?
Thanks for the video... My model control board is similar to but not the same as shown. No problem. Bought the 10 pack of triacs for like 12 bucks on Amazon, hauled out my soldier pencil and some screw drivers and went to work. No schematic inside the oven and the triac number on the board isn't the same as the schematic as mentioned in the video. There was only one triac, so I took a chance and replaced it. Just like years ago when I built so many Heathkits as a kid, I put everything back together, no parts left over, plugged it in for the smoke test. It works fine. Thank you! Lesson learned here tho, when the bulb starts to burn out, don't tap on it to get a few more hours on it. If the filament falls directly on the contacts inside the bulb and 'shorts' the bulb out, poof, there goes the triac. But, I have 8 more triacs if it happens again. Thank you again
Nice work!
Ordered the triac(s) from Amazon. I didn't see the link, so just searched based on the control board sticker and ordered one that looked like the original (minimum 10). Removed the control panel, unsoldered the old triac and resoldered the new. Despite my poor soldering it worked perfectly. THANKS!!
Thanks for sharing one of our units had this exact problem, and I fixed it using this repair.
Glad to hear that thanks for watching Seth!
Thanks for the info, I was able to fix the problem without to much trouble. Only problem was figuring out how to release the various connectors without breaking something. Also lost a screw but that’s par for the course for me. Not sure I replaced the same TRIAC shown on the spec sheet, but the light seems to work fine.
👍 it takes a bit of practice and finesse to release those plugs on circuit boards. I love ripped a few out in my day
Appreciate the info. Mine is still in warranty, so hopefully it will be fixed for no charge.
It worked! Thanks for posting this!
Thank you so much for this video! So glad I found it! You successfully made and intimidating task fairly easy. Solved my problem!!
Saved me money thanks big time it worked flawlessly
Great to hear!
Worked like a charm! Thank you!
Thanks for making this video.
my light went out and i replaced it with an LED version i found at the hardware store and then the light would not turn off. After seeing videos like this one i thought it was a more major problem after a couple weeks I decided to buy a regular non LED bulb and guess what? Its off. Try a new bulb befor ripping your microwave appart!!
That's exactly why I'm here. Just put a LED in and now it's stuck on. Guess I'll try a new bulb first
Great video Dave, very cool. A desoldering sucker helps me out alot, and soldering hands when I do this repair.
Thanks Christov I'll check that out - circuit boards are definitely not my specialty.
Hi, I followed your method and instructions and got my light to work again. Thanks for the assist. For the Triac, I ordered a set of BT136-600E and I see that the one that I replaced is a BT136-600D so hopefully that doesn't make a difference.
Should be fine 👍
So- did the BT136-600E end up working for you, @sloejoe87
Yes, still working perfectly after 7 months.@@benbombs6338
Works Great now. Thanks!!!
I have this issue and now know what's wrong. Thank you
Your welcome!
AMPro - Nice video ... our new whirlpool MW just failed the same way.
Thanks for posting the video. It worked perfect, you saved me a lot of money, headache and the hassle.
Thank you for this follow up video. I will order Triac BT136 600E to replace D series one that is burned out. Hoping the E series is more robust. Both made by WeEn. My question: does the orientation of the Triac on the circuit board matter? I will try to maintain same as the schematic shows terminal 3 is gate.
Same problem here, Whirlpool microwave. Light stays on. Just snipped the feed wire and wired a small rocker switch inline. Mounted it on the 45° angle of the lower metal cover just below the control panel (plenty of clearance on the backside). Works like a champ and is easier than using the touch panel, just no dimming feature anymore
Nice!
That was a cool fix
Hey Thanks Ray !! 🛠🛠🛠
Thanks for putting this video out here. Just replaced the Triac part and it's fixed. Now I have 9 more times I can fix the same thing. Ha Ha!
Nice work!
Thank you for the info! It's always best to ground yourself with a wrist strap and cord before handling ESD sensitive parts and the control board or you'll cause more issues. Static electricity kills or degrades components...
Yes 👍 this is very true thanks Jeff 😀
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro The triac arrived yesterday and I plan to install it today. Weird design and not energy efficient still pulsing when it's supposed to be off. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks so much for positing this. Gonna attempt this fix.
Question: How do you know which triac to use>? Amp/voltage? I don't have the schematic but the board looks exactly like yours and is triac 7104 on the board.
I would look up the drawing and find out what part controls the dimming of the light, I want to say that’s the right triac but I can’t promise. Good thing is those triacs are pretty cheap
Do you have a part number of the TRIAC you bought from Amazon?
Similar problem. Replaced original incandescent with Led light will go bright and dim but won't turn off. Old one worked before blowing out. Could it the bulb, or bad control board, the reason for the original bulb blowing out?
I am having the same problem on a model manufactured in 2021. I read that the problem could be the LED light that I installed. So I’m going to try that. I’ll let you know if it works. Otherwise, I’ll try what you have in your videos. 😅
What is the tool and material you are using to replace the triac only?
Wow very cool now im gona have to learn how to work on controll boards instead of replacing them sometimes on a fridge im pretty shure I wich part of the controll bord needs replacing
Thanks Chris, which fridge boards are you referring to?
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro I mostly deal with older fridges that don't have much circuit boards but I've scraped a few newer fridges because I didn't want to buy a new or used pcb
What is the Triac part number and voltage or amp rating?
What part number is the triac?
I’ve got w10529740A microwave that has an issue described in this video. However when I look at schematic, it shows HL goes through HL Relay 4911 and HL Relay 4912. HF goes through Relay 4902. On actual board all three of them look same but there is no way to read model# of the relays unless removing from circuit board. Are they actually same relays? What is Triac? I assum I would need to replace both relays 4905 and 4911?
Gotta find out where your losing power. Those relays are just 'switches' they are either open or closed. I don't have the schematic for the model you described but I doubt that it goes through a relay, I could be wrong though. Just my experience. A triac regulates the load on the lightbulb (bright, dim, etc)
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro
My microwave also has two different light settings: full/half but there literally no triac on schematic or board itself, I did very close inspection.
Part is BT136-600E BT136-600 BT136 . in description. Thank you.
Where you buy the motherboard?
I have a Maytag, same thing for Whirlpool makes them all is my understanding🤷♂️ anyway 7401 triac, success in the replacement, still light goes full/half/but doesn't turn off😢 now what? Replace board?
Will this fix the lights won't turn on? Replace bulbs and sockets, replaced the board with one off ebay and but still won't turn on. So either I got a bad board with the same issue or something else. Thanks!
I would ohm out the wire from the socket to the board to ensure it’s making it all the way
Thanks, the issue was the connection at the clip where the wires from the control board connect to the lights and turntable motor.
My microwave is doing the exact same thing but our original bulb burnt out. So after tree new bulbs, which get sizzling hot, we were ready to order the control board. Can you sell me a couple of those resistors since I put in triad and nothing has three through hole pics!
Hi, this might be a long shot, but I wrote about a year ago, that I used your instructions to get my light working again. I have a new problem with my light , but this time it looks like one of the resistors on the board somehow overheated and burned up. I'd like to replace it but I can't figure out what the resistor value is. I just know that on the board it is labeled as resistor #3914. It isn't shown in the schematics and the color code on the resistor burned so bad I can't tell what the value was. Do you have any schematics or part list that would show the value of this resistor? Thanks.
Look for pictures of your control board model, hopefully they are detailed enough you can zoom in on the control board where your burnt resistor is. Most appliances don’t freely give out the info on there control boards
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro Thanks, I had found a photo of the board on Ebay, but I'm not 100% sure of the resistor value since the photo is not quite in good enough detail. I think it's 470 ohm.
@ApartmentMaintenancePro I went with the 470 ohm resistor and also replaced the Triac again and the light is back up and running.
Thanks for the explanation! My report . . . I did the fix and now have High, Medium & Low light brightness (no off). When showing "off" it displays dimly. I did install an LED bulb - could the low power demand of an LED be the issue (since an LED requires little power to give a dim light)? Wonder what is causing that? Hmmmm....
I don't have the literature to back up this claim but, don't put LEDs in these microwaves.
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro I'll get a regular incandescent and report back.
Your assumption is close to correct.
Since the high, low, and off functions are triac controlled, the bulb dims by varying the duty cycle (width of pulses) of the power going to it, not the voltage. At the off setting. power is not off, but the very narrow pulses don't light a filament bulb. An LED responds differently than a filament, and it is "seeing" those very narrow pulses and lighting even when the display says "OFF". Normally a triac is used to control motor speed, not light brightness. It's simply cheap engineering, using a triac to "DIM"a light bulb. A way around it is to install a high wattage low value resistor across the LED. A 20 watt 10 ohm resistor should work. The same is true when replacing an older car's filament bulb lights with LEDs. You have to make the CAN BUSS computer "think" there are filament bulbs by mimicking the filament bulb's electrical characteristics. I have seen this many times. I am an electrical engineer.
@@arubaguy2733 Thank you so much for this comment this is extremely helpful :)
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro Glad I could help. I replaced my short-life filament bulb with an LED. I have the same Hi/Med/Lo effect, but I kinda like it. Like a night light in the kitchen running for about 10 cents a year in electricity cost.
Where is the main fuse in this model? It’s not visible in the right hand cavity behind the panel you took out.
fuse is in the compartment with the capacitor and magnetron
Where did you order the trial. Please
Link in description, can’t guarantee they will match your model though
👍👍👍👍🔥
Part number please for motherboard in case we screw up the triac part?
Should be on the circuit board itself. I can’t give you an exact part number you will have to refer to your particular model number which is most likelydifferent than the one in this video
The triac on my Whirlpool is 7919. Any idea how to cross reference that?
Look for a model number on the triac itself, should start with 'BT....'
7919 should just be the schematic point for the triac, it's not a "model" number or anything. That number will be printed on the board where the triac is, and you can trace the solder points on the board behind it. If it's like the board in this video, should be easy to find, since there's a notch cut out in the board exactly between the three points of the triac.
To get the triac needed, just look at the print on the triac itself.
where can i buy the right light bulb for my microwave ? whirlpool
amzn.to/3GrV6Y7
Is there different size triacs?
Yes!
So people this is when you deal with the light or replace the microwave
Great for handy folks. I can't do it
not with that attitude you can't
🆘 Think twice before you buy the Whirlpool microwave in the above video. When the light won’t shut off the only way to fix it is to buy a new motherboard, and they range in price from $155 to over $350 plus tax and shipping. And it’s an inherent problem in this Whirlpool microwave unit 0:05 wmh53521hz. The guy in the video does an excellent job showing how to replace it but you can buy a new microwave for $450 or LED stick up under cabinet lights for under $10 as a solution.
Learn how to replace that triac. It's not hard and only costs $0.99. The microwave in question is contractor-grade (cheap) and found in hundreds of new homes.
I replaced the control board but the light still stays on. 🤔
Hey can I buy one of the triacs from you don’t need 10
Hey, I actually have repaired way more than 10 of these and burn through them lol - make sure that these match your model you have - amzn.to/3zL5Ixy
Well darn, Mine has TWO triac chips on it!
Use the wiring diagram bro narrow it down to the light 👍
The light is not turning off. I have the same problem.
I think I’ll just replace the microwave. I’m not an electrician and it’s on sale for less than 250.
Yup! All depends on the price you put on your time! For some, a replacement is faster and less headache and worth the money.
Why won’t Whirlpool fix this crap and why won’t they respond to my warranty calls? Absolute garbage appliance company, will never buy their garbage again.
I manage property this is very helpful except the two little green wires neither me or my maintenance can get them off. :(
To much work dam
That's so dumb we just got a place and it's already breaking .
🆘 Think twice before you buy the Whirlpool microwave in the above video. When the light won’t shut off the only way to fix it is to buy a new motherboard, and they range in price from $155 to over $350 plus tax and shipping. And it’s an inherent problem in this Whirlpool microwave unit 0:05 wmh53521hz. The guy in the video does an excellent job showing how to replace it but you can buy a new microwave for $450 or LED stick up under cabinet lights for under $10 as a solution.
what? he shows how to fix it for like a dollar in the video