The Correct way to Install Reflectix on your Campervan or RV | Van life Insulation
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- čas přidán 9. 08. 2017
- Reflectix is a Radiant Barrier that needs at least a 3/4th inch gap or space to work properly. Before the Reflectix is installed correctly, radiant heat radiates off the sun heated Van metal and onto your body inside. After you Install Reflectix, the heat is reflected back away from the van.
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I was about to insulate my van the way the other van lifers teach and thank god I watched your video because that would’ve been a huge disaster. I’m trying to beat the Australian heat. Thanks for your videos, they are a huge comfort.
What was your solution to use and have the gap for proper use?
Fellow Aussie, robertt
@@robertwilson18273:15
I know this vid is 2 years old, but it just saved me today. I literally bought my van 2 days ago, and have never built anything in my life. I picked up a roll of reflectix yesterday, and was planning to install it today. Before going outside, I decided to look for a few more vids for pointers and found yours. What you say makes perfect sense; I wasn't getting how the reflectix was working in other vans, when it has no space to reflect. Now, I have re-thought my whole approach. Thanks for this vid, I saw it in the nick of time.
Definitely I'm glad to have been an influence and help. Thank you!
How did it work during the summer? I used little foam cubes glued to the wall to mount reflectix to so there's an air gap then put my walls on top of that. There is like 1 inch air space
Same here lol I bought rolls of reflectix intending to stick it on with spray adhesive 😅 obviously idk what I’m doing!
Oh geez guys. Guess who just got a van and has no idea what to add to help break the heat but also prep for summer. Super small budget. Any advice is appreciated . Have plywood floors, with vinyl on that. One couch style 2x4 bed on driver side, thinking about a Maxx air fan, windows are cargo style and don't open.
@@Concerned_citizen1a for your front windows look up gutter guards van windows to create bug free ventilation, also rain guards for the window. This will create a cross breeze with your Maxx fan.
it's very important that people understand there is a wrong way to insulate and a right way. it's good that someone finally pointed out why the space between is important to keep in order for their insulation r-value to be where it should be. thanks Ryan...
Wow that was close 🥵 I'm starting my insulation on Thursday & it's just after midnight on Wednesday night 🌙 if I hadn't clicked on your video I'd of done it all wrong 😬 and froze 🥶 I've been researching van builds for around 2 years & absolutely nobody I've read about or watched have ever done it this way. It makes perfect sense, thank you for educating me. You have saved me from some very miserably cold nights x
For sure!
Thank you for some clarity. Some people use Reflectix as a water/moisture barrier and not as insulation. Far too many van CZcamsrs do most everything wrong. Solar panels fly off, mold illness strikes some, and other problems. CZcamsrs rarely go back and corrects old videos that have been monetized. They could go back and add text on a re-edit, but that would take time and effort.
rant over LOL
Last time I accessed CA building codes (& it's been a while) home values were:
ceiling~ R-30
walls~ R-19
floor~ R-13
approaching these numbers in an RV is the cat's meow!
This is how you get a one watched video subscription. Thank you for doing it right.
THANK YOU! That’s exactly what my wife and i were saying about the R value. How do people not even look at the pictures.
You make it a very big point to say and prove how others were wrong.. Thanks for the info!
Thanks. I knew about the gap but I'm glad it doesn't have to be a big gap. Your vid helped.
You deserve a bloody medal! Have been looking all over the Tube for someone who explains this!
Cait Scullin thank you!
I would love to see some actual testing around van insulation e.g. actual metal boxes, left in the sun, with various insulations lined on the inside, and measure the temperature increases. And then the same but keeping heat in, with it cold outside. I must get onto that...
Eat Sleep Van
Check out my channel, I used a temperature gun and took some readings of bare metal, insulation board, insulation board with Luan over and glass.
I did that. No video. Reflectix works to slow the heating of my van in direct sun. Does Jack shit for cold weather, if you haven't heated the van. My other van has standard insulation and is better holding on to warmth from the day in to the night.
FINALLY i found someone who actually knows how vital air barriers are.
Just picking up your brain maybe... I stickied thinsulate black rubber 10 mm all under the ceiling. My priority is heat and cold together but what would be next?
@@ivanriverooo depends on how much insulation you want, after you have the 10mm black rubber on the ceiling, create a 2 to 3cm airgap and then use reflectix or some other insulation layer. then the roof panels go on. aka thos mdf roof panls that people cover etc. thats one way. or add another insulation layer to double the r value.
@@AridersLifeYT okay so I cannot put all layers of whatever stickied together?
@@AridersLifeYT for convenience I will attach the cotton wool and reflectix in that order upon the last panel and then mount it all up with the gap you recommend. Right?
@@AridersLifeYT So against the shell 1) 10 mil rubber 2) 2 cms 3) cotton, reflectix and the panneling (deco last layer) altogether in contact. Right?
hey Ryan, I like what you're doing here with this van build. thank you for putting this information out there. it's very vary valuable knowledge that people can apply to more than vans. for instance, i'm fortifying my RV and your channel helpful for that. thank you and good luck!
Thank you! That's awesome! Have any links I can follow for your RV build?
My van is going to be so well insulated that a cat fart can raise the temperature. Opening my cooler for 1 minute will feel like winter inside my van.
Radiant material was popular in Florida to drape between roof rafters 30 yrs ago to combat ferocious sun. That material was like heavy duty tin foil vs bubble wrap sandwiched between foil like this roll. Of course there has to be an air gap for maximum effectiveness. It took me a week to install radiant barrier (using same product shown) on a fiberglass cowling, aka top hat, above the cab on a box truck with 3/4" air gap - sealed around the edges to create an air envelope. That was covered with rigid foam insulation board tiles to negotiate curves. Radiant barrier combined with rigid foam board impressed me as the best method and my box truck remains ambient air temperature - even when exposed to direct summer sun. Of course once the AC is turned on the benefits of R12 (conservative rating of 2" foam and radiant barrier) does the job.
Thank you for showing people the proper way Bob wells from cheap RV living does a great job as well
U should include that the little bubbles hold heat or cold depending how it's installed. Nice to see someone who knows what's good
How do you install it to hold hot or cold?
Great save, makes lots of good sense to me. I had always hesitated about my installation because of the low R-value placing the material without an air gap.
I have been looking for nearly an hour for help about this for my van. This video is helpful. Thanks
Sweet man! Thank you!
Awesome bro, that's exactly what I did! Shiny side foam board facing up, layer of reflectix, battens, then my cedar t&g.
That foam board has foil on both sides; just printed on one side. No issues installing with shiny in or out.
Thank you for the tip. I almost did it the wrong way. Good thing i saw your video just in time
You can buy plastic grid panels called aquarium separators cheap, then use a touch of glue in a few places on interior roof to create an air gap that you can glue reflectix onto. Im cutting up the panels into smaller pieces to spread em around
Glad to see someone else get's it. So few do.
Hey, I see I saw at least one of your videos 4 months ago. Subscribed today, though. You have done fantastic. I will be happy with far less when I reach my one year mark. I am only just last night started launching my channel. I can't do videos just yet.
You nailed it pal. I can't believe the thousands of channels wrongly promoting how to Insulate. Like they're all just copying from each other.
Thank you so much. This helps me out a lot. I might be doing a lot of this on my own. Next summer I'm going to be living in a van with your dog :-)
Well structured video! Short and informative! Just the way CZcamsrs like their info videos!😁👍
I insulated my minivan for Van life with reflectix and so far so good
Finally got my van. And since your's is the best van build every I'm soaking up all your info. Good advice! Doubt mine will be as cool as yours but it will be pretty nice. Hopefully.
Thank you, add me on Facebook so I can follow your build.
m.facebook.com/ryanbell88
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Ah man I don't facebook. Facebook is the devil. lol
Well I’ll be Damned! Finally someone that knows what he’s talking about! All the MOE’s that have put Reflectix in their $300k+ Coaches that are putting it up against the inside cabinet walls and claim that it dramatically changes the temps.
You are Spot-On Dude! I’m not into Vans but I’ll still subscribe & like just because you know WTF you’re talking about and I can finally point others to your video! LoL
Thanks Lane!
It's like layering in the winter, a layer against your skin and then a puffy layer as an air barrier
thank you for explaining refextix !
At last someone using reflectix the right way, I was begining to hate The stuff because it seem to always be used wrong. Thanks for trying to correct the world.
Expected to see some installation taking place..
If you install your second (interior layer) across the wooden ceiling braces you'll also elimnate thermal bridging at those points.
I found the following statement on the Reflectix website.
For either a reflective insulation or a radiant barrier, an air space of a minimum thickness is required on the reflective side of the product. (Most Reflectix® products are reflective (shiny) on both sides.) The reflective insulation benefit is derived from the interaction of the highly-reflective surface with the air space. If the reflective surface is in contact with another building material, it becomes a conductor (transmitting the energy by conduction). An air space may be specified on one or both sides of the product (always on a reflective side). Enclosed air spaces, when instructed, are required to provide the stated R-value.
I've seen a million van builds and every one of them put the reflectix right against the walls. Thanks for the great info! #RB
I’m not sure if he explains this but the reason you need an air gap is because heat coming through has to be converted to Radiant energy form ... literally radiates off of the surface generating heat like a piece of metal being hit by the sun. It Has to radiate off of the surface of the heated side..it radiates off the surface through the USPS and then hits the reflective foil that type of energy just reflected. reflects back in the opposite direction.... if The radiant barrier is touching the surface it conducts the heat through the foil... the heat goes straight through and has very little if any of the radiant property is being used
Sir , what about repainting the roof with a special cooling component but still in white? Is there something that's exist?
For example that rhino paint made for truck bedding. Would that help any if painted on the roof and underneath roof
thanks alf 4 your explaination
I have a cargo trailer and after watching many videos and listening to all the opinions, I believe a lot depends on the environment you spend your time in. As traveling Nomad I aim to spend my time in areas where insulation is only important at night. During the day I can shade my cargo trailer, open all windows, doors and screen it for insects, letting it breathe.
I use foam board only. Never sealed the gaps between outside metal and the metal frame so that it can not form condensation as their is a way for it to escape, unlike some who have sealed it so tight that mold is sure to form which is unhealthy to breathe. Then I used 1 1/2” xps and 2” xps without any adhesive. Then a 1/2” plywood and long screws to the metal frame of trailer. This allows it to be easily removed for trailer wiring, outlet wiring and inspection for any mold buildup issues. Also no wood touches metal of trailer making it have a thermal barrier naturally and no wood rot issues.
I am warm enough at night and cool enough as well. So far no mold as it can breathe behind the foam gaps left by the trailer manufacturers who never properly sealed it. (Which actually helped anyway)
As I mentioned before, shade and living in areas where insulation is not top priority, airing it out during the day. Only using heat or A/C at night or for a day or two in daylight hours is key to living the house free lifestyle.
If the foam needs replaced, it can be easily removed and the patterns are already cut. Walls can be disinfected and you start over fresh just like when you bought the cargo van.
So what if you have to replace the foam, it lasted many years, and you are still not paying a mortgage or rent, or property taxes. Seems like a win to me.
Sounds like you got it man! Good job.
Thanks. Food for thought
It is funny how so many are quick to attack and/or question U and the information U put out... but will blindly follow others. I will follow the instructions and how U are doing this when it comes time to do myVan insulation. Maybe the loud ones are upset because they blindly followed and did no research of their own. Bob (of Cheap RV Living) has a video in which He expresses that reflectix IS radiant when used properly with the gap... no gap and the surface the reflectix is on becomes a conductor. So, I would think that would be making a whole lot of van extra warm or cold. Anyone can be wrong and questioned... even if it's "supposed" van life gurus, teachers, big wigs... whatever titles people seem to wanna think they are. Thankhz so much for sharing and glad U spoke up. I want to do myVan conversion as right as possible. Wholeness n Love ((-;
Thank you for this! Makes sense.
The problem we van builders face is that specs on household insulation products like this do not transfer directly to our intended usage. Imagine 2 layers of this reflectix each with the proper air gap in addition to your main insulator. It robs too much internal volume this way. It also sets up structural issues...I mean what to you attach these layers to ? If the response is more layers of wooden framing, how heavy do you want your van to be ? Also if you intend to fix your furniture to your wooden framing it needs to be the frame that is directly supported by direct bonding to the metal shell. Not 2 layers in as each layer further away from the metal body gets weaker. I've seen lots of different approaches and many say they work for them in their daily usage. That's what matters. Personally I favour Kingspan style board with foil each side plus thinsulate in the awkward areas. I'm working on eliminating thermal bridges which many people (but not everone) know are the spots where your insulation is failing due to some form of contact between the cold side and the warmer side of your insulation. You can also minimise heat transfer by eliminating or reducing holes to the outside. This includes windows but also openings for toilet emptying or water fill up etc. You just don't need those outside doors if you plan the siting of these features next to van doors. Open the van door and pull out the cassette or fill the water. Cut down on thermal bridges. So much for your walls and ceiling. Floors can be just as simple. Cab areas are the big challenge. I once lived in a house with a poor heating system and a large through room. We put up a heavy curtain across the archway to split the room in half. (The gas fire was In the front half.) Instantly we had a cosy room. It was freezing going through the curtain to reach the kitchen to make a brew but the main living area was much better. Cab curtains work. What I've noticed is that even those who have 2 swivel seats place the curtain across the cab to cut it off completely including the seats. This puts some people off. Just fashion a shaped curtain to allow the seats to remain within your living space but the curtain to still hang low to the floor to keep the heat in and the cold from the windows out. On the topic of insulation we should not forget about adequate ventilation. Were talking oxygen to breath and airflow to expel moist air. Insulation and ventilation go hand in hand. My experience of van builds tells me that lack of ventilation is rarely a problem but bear it in mind. So the proper way to use reflectix is two layers 3/4 inch spaced from each other and everything else..........how ? Happy travels everyone. John
You stick the first layer on your walls, floor and ceeling. On the bare metal. It's only 1-2mm thick.
The 2nd layer of reflectix you stick on after your insulation. You don't need to have a literal "air" gap. Insulation is also an air gap, lots of tiny air gaps. The point is to have reflectix it on both sides. I think this idea is amazing. You need vapor barrier anyway, might as well use reflectix for it.
To secure things in place easier, you can use "stick pins" for insulation. They have super strong adhesive and a way to hold any insulation in place. (Make sure to cut the end off and close the whole with some aluminium tape.)
Done! If I got anything wrong in here, let me know. But this is basically as simple as you can make it.
@@millanferende6723 hi Millan. Your 1st Reflectix layer stuck to the metal has no air gap between it and the metal so cannot reflect heat back towards the Van's outside skin. It's a thermal bridge because the foil is a good conductor. The foil may as well be the van skin. The bubble part will give minimal insulation as every little surface area that would be insulated by the trapped air is immediately in contact with the outer metal too. Essentially this 1st layer is wasted. Also, if you need a second layer of reflectix on the inside of your main insulator then I would say your main insulator isn't doing its job. Obviously each person commenting has their own opinion, and I can only offer mine. For me Recticel type board AKA Kingspan ticks the boxes....it is readily available and fairly cheap, its flexible especially the 12mm thick stuff (which can be multi-layered) It already has a reflective foil on both sides - that is also a viable vapour barrier built in. I think it's fair to say that most van builds are very individual . Van contours differ a lot too. The drawback with Recticel is that it suits larger relatively flatter areas and isn't easy to fit to odd shapes. If you need to cut it up it can get messy. But with a little thought it can be applied in lots of areas saving time, effort and cost....and no..I don't work for either of those manufacturers ! Lol Happy travels. John
@@johnvancamper1987 Hey John, thank you for your input. Yeah you are right that Recticel board is pretty handy in that. It's also what one of my favorite van maker use.
You are right that we probably cannot know for sure, without testing.
In my eyes, when an object like an outer skin heats up, it releases heat as conduction ( touch) and radiation (IR) into the van.
The insulation layer slows down the conduction. And a layer of silver reflectix on the outside of the skin, reflects that IR back. But it passes through the heat from conduction.
Which is where insulation comes in. Now insulation gets hot too and transfer heat at conduction, as well as IR. And that is where the second layer comes in.
The only question really is, does reflectix work directly outside of a surface. And I believe yes, it reflects IR right back. But gets hot, and this is where second layer of reflectix comes in.
Or maybe the inner layer helps keep the van warm during winter and outer layer cold during summer. In both cases two layers is better than one.
This is what I believe of course to be true. We cannot know for sure without some dedicated scientific tests. But my logic and knowledge says this is true. I wish you best of luck in your build. :)
My mom did this when we were younger, a heavy curtain across the windows and doors from other rooms and our area became much warmer.☺
@ferende
Of course you need an air gap. Reflectix isn’t magic- it has to have a sealed envelope to work. No airgap is like almost no insulation value.
You can actually insulate way better than reflectix ever will with fitted foam. Reflectix can be useful but not how most people use it. There’s some science involved.
Thanks or explaining the importance of the air gap
Thanks for your video! I had forgotten about my own dad teaching me about air and fluffing insulation when he was still alive. Thanks for bringing back some happy memories.
Have a thought, though.When it work to usebubblewrap in betweenthe reflectix layers? Give the roof more rigidity , and not just be hanging down an inch from the other part. Just a thought.
Kathy Endicott your not wrong. I'm sure it would only improve rigidity like you say though. My ceiling is done now. I'll be releasing a video on the entire ceiling soon.
Great video!
Great tip bro, i did sub !!
Thank you so much for your knowledge! I appreciate it!
Hello, great for calling this out, ive seen some instructional videos on CZcams that make me cringe, people who don’t know the difference between a screw, a nut and a bolt or even a tyre and a wheel and they’re making out they’re some sort of authority.
Outstanding 👊
Thanks for the video. :)
Plato
Definitely man!
*very informative*
I don't have an RV but, I do have a very old mobile home that is rotting away and haven't had working heat in years! I don't have much money therefore any of your tips would help me greatly!
Hi, if i use Reflectix for the windows, does there need to be a gap between the glass and the reflectix as well? Thanks.
I agree, like in camping, heat is trapped in layers of material and dead air space.
555 appreciate u for the knowledge drop 💎
Where was this video a few days ago? I searched you tube and never saw it and I realized last night, not from why video, but from me freezing my ass off even though I had all of the sprinter lined with reflectix. It was a little warm up towards the ceiling but down towards the ground where my air mattress is was cold ass hell. So today I went and took back the 2 rolls I had left and got the foam board insulation with the foil on one side. But I thought, from what I read today, that the reflectix should go on the frame of the van and the board over it and then the panels. That's the way I was planning on doing it tonight after in drop my freight off and park in a wallet parking lot. I'll have to do some more reading before I start to see if you're right and the reflectix goes on top of the board or on the van. Thanks for the video, hopefully more people see it in the and don't mess up like I did.
Just remember to put a space towards the outside of the van before the reflectix. Do not put it directly on the van, because that literally only gives you R-1
Thanks for the tip 👌😁
Thank you, its good to know.
Air gap is paramount when insulating. Unfortunately you lose a little space, but the advantage far outweighs any loss.
I think a lot of people are okay with having some insulation and a vapor barrier without worrying too much about min-maxing. Technically correct (my favourite kind!) isn't always practical - if it were, you wouldn't be making excuses about your own wall not having ideal insulation. Also worth considering is height. I'm 177cm/5'10 so I could have air gaps on the roof and not have to stoop in a high roof. For other people, that 1/2" here and there makes a world of difference to how liveable the space is.
Well done you!
Great info! Thanks!!
also the heated air needs a place to move too and out this is a very critical point. as you shown in the r 21 picture it can never reach r 21 if the heat can't be vented out. this is the main
factor to get r 21. I use this stuff all the time in construction but i also understand heat transfer and how it works
Edward Woods Completely agree!
Thanks! 🙌🏼
Great explanation!!!!
I am going to bring you into my Van today ------
Well, there are 2 schools of thought with insulation. Everyone considers high r-value to be the benchmark and getting that is an issue when you have thin walls, such as in a camper van. However, e-value is the holy grail of insulation. Consider low-e glass, for instance. It's Low Emissive which means it doesn't let heat radiate through it.
Emission is the #1 source of heat loss in a home. Reflective insulation, like Reflectix, doesn't allow heat to pass through it and reflects heat back to its source. NASA had the same problem in space: How do you insulate the ships and how do you insulate the astronauts on space walks? Do you have room for that gap? Is that enough?
The gaps ARE important. But, those that put it up against the metal or other insulation are getting value from that. It's just that, a yurt or NASA are going to use multi-layer insulation with a much thinner gap to get those results. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-layer_insulation
cost is a factor in choosing bubble wrap over fancy glass lol.
In the summertime in Florida the sun will turn the inside of a car into an oven. Using a sun screen which is basically Reflectix or a mimic, will reflect the sun back out of the car and significantly reduce the internal temperature. Reflectix bounces the heat back and not the cold. The idea is to keep the heat out in the summer and keep the heat in in the cold days. A hot object radiates heat and a cold object absorbs the heat. Objects touching each other will allow heat to flow from the warm area to the cool area, hence the dead air space.
A thermos bottle, which has a dead air space, keeps heat in and heat out. Hot liquids will stay hot for a long time and cold liquids will stay cold for a long time. The design of the thermos with the inner dead air space maintains the temperature of the contents but there must be contact with the outside in the design and so heat is transferred from the hotter source to the cooler one but far less than in a non-thermos container.
Insulation is used to minimize the transfer of heat from inside to outside and outside to inside. By minimizing the transfer of heat the use of HVAC for temperature control is reduced. A well insulated van requires less heat in winter and less cool in summer. Of course opening a door or window alters the internal temperature.
No insulation is perfect and the customized often overlooks the metal struts putting the insulation just between them. Touch the side of your icebox and see how cold the metal is.
Rather than conversation, it would be great if someone could use a device to measure the temperature of the bare metal walls or ceiling and then a patch of Reflectix against that wall. Both in summer and in winter. Then instead of these R ratings, we could see the actual difference in temperature. Let me revise this, it could be done using a sealed metal box with a thermometer inside. One box has bare metal and the other has Reflectix on all surfaces. Then the boxes could be left in direct summer sunlight and in the snow. Compare the internal temperatures of the two boxes. Boxes could be created with two layers of Reflectix, with layers of 2 inch foam board, etc.
By creating these test boxes comparisons could be made under actual conditions rather than using theories.
RV insulation has different problems than your typical home insulation. The thin metal walls are different from the thick concrete, wood or other materials used in building homes. A ceiling creates a dead air space and offers room to add thick insulation while an RV does not. A van or truck has limited inside space and adding two or three inches of foam core insulation reduces that significantly.
I might do this at some point. So many people have asked for it.
Will Prose would be a good person to do the testing, also, if Ryan doesn't have time.
It is insane how many vanlife people throw up rolls of reflectix with no understanding of how it works.
For technical info: A+ For music choice at the end :D- Thumbs up given.
Thank you for this.
Thanks!
Thanks for the info.
Live Free or Die check out part 2 as well, it has the same title but with the number 2 after it in parentheses.
And this one, you see my finished van and all of the insulation is described in much more detail
Cool
good info/tips
My van has 1/4 inch ridges. I plan to hot glue (with a fat blob) 1/4" magnets .. I hope it's enough. ,
The van is black and I was thinking of painting the roof on top with a highly reflective chrome paint and velcroing a flexible 200w solar panel over the center resting on ridges so another air gap up there. I wonder if any value gluing reflectix to the bottom of the panel as well.
Thanks. Quite helpful.
Could you attach this to a heavy tarp with adhesive spray and then tarp down the Rv if it was sitting in place, with the reflective on the outside top of the tarp ...Would that work to help lower inside temp
Yes! For sure! That's correct
Hey Ryan, very good and informative video. Keep up the good work. Could you use a layer of fiberglass followed by a layer of Reflexit to achieve a similar R factor? Or would you recommend sticking to what you discussed in the video?
Alejandro Gonzalez doing what you said will work! Just keep a space in there
Got it, thanks for the feedback!
Oh another question ...what affects would covering the van roof from the outside like adhering it to the outside of roof to reflect sun rays and rain
This would give the most benefit, as long as you could keep it away from weathering and wind damage.
All you need to do is use some of that bubble wrap with the big bubbles and put it between the wall and the reflectix to get the 3/4 air gap. Then install your foam board insulation over the reflectix. Then you need a vapor barrier. I use clear plastic sheeting over all the foam insulation to seal the walls/floor and ceiling before putting up my wood panels. Also dont forget to do all the ribs. Be sure to mark their locations or you wont know where they are once they are all sealed in
Rocky Alvarez
All this was good, except DO NOT install a vapor barrier. The van metal itself is already a vapor barrier. Installing another vapor barrier below only helps trap moisture between the van metal vapor barrier and your other vapor barrier. This can lead to rust and mold over time if the vapor is not allowed to vent freely below your insulation.
Thank you for sharing though man, just wanted to point this out for others.
Excellent tutorial. Only seen one other who did w/gap; all others didn’t do or even mention importance of doing so.
Would love to see a longer, slower version really honing in on the gap, spacing, etc, but this was quite useful! TIA! Safe, happy travels. 😊
Marirose Walker
My second video might be what you want. If not, please comment how I could make a better one!
czcams.com/video/ijPhfG-tWwQ/video.html
Outdoors Embrace Perfect! Just what I was looking for. Glad I found your channel. That other vid helped a lot. 😊
Yep you have to leave a gap👌
Another youtube expert.
Never said I was. It's recommended you build a viewer base by "saying it as you learn it".
Bob Wells is very much an expert, and he agrees: m.czcams.com/video/FVk8csC6OiM/video.html
Yup that's the way I did it, thought the other way was wrong
CVD
you want the air gap to face the direction that you want the heat to be retained in. So in this case you would want to have the reflectix on the rigid insulation and a 3/4" air gap before you put down your plywood/ceiling material. Either will work but if you want full function it makes sense to have the heated air within he heated space. It rigid insulation is to insulated exterior temperature from the interior.
You can do it your way if the goal is to help keep heat inside during winter.
My way is for the summer, keeping heat out.
Both ways are valid. I could have just put a space on both sides to receive both benefits as well.
Although,
I believe reflectix works best for reflecting summer heat. For winter time and keeping warm air in, I recommend getting the ridged polyiso. The reflectix only works by reflecting heat. The polyiso works by reflecting with the shiny side and also works by insulating conductive heat. More benefits.
This is great, but I need a video showing me what tools are necessary to have in building a Truck bed/w/shell, insulating in particular?? Anyone?
can you show the process of applying the reflectex to the van walls and ceiling? that would be great! thanx
I do actually explain how I did it on my second reflectix video. It's on my channel
Good info! But what about adding as shelf or drawer liners? Maybe put bubblewrap inbetween..? Any info will be much appreciated and helpful.
Jenny Eagan yes! All those things are good.
I'm just leaving the space by choice. No other reason besides it's not sealed up and don't want to open the ceiling back up.
Umm, umm, umm, umm, umm, but extremely good information. Just got my camping trailer.
Thanks for sharing.
I agree that so many folks have attached the reflectix without any air gap.
How did you attach the 1x2 on your ceiling? I don't see screws. Do you use size 10 or size 12 screws to attach wood to the van ribs?
T M the wood is attached with screws. The panel insulation is installed with contact cement. I used screws for the wood thaat were just the right length to go threw the ribs, but not the roof to the outside.
Subbed 🌟🌟🌟🌟 I knew everyone was doing it wrong
Yes! Thank you!
Thanks so much. I'm so new to all this. I have a question for you... I have an '88 motorhome. (1st winter with it, had a truck box camper last year). Do you think that snow blocks,(as in snow packed into big plastic bins), stacked around motorhome would give me more issues than any benefit? Just as high as windows about 2 ft from walls maybe?
I'm not completely sure, but Igloos work for heat so I'd say they would work. Don't take my work though.
Ryan, wouldn't the R-Tech on your van ceiling simulate an air gap between the Reflectix and the metal roof? Thanks, Harold
Thank you for your advice. I’m going to do the same thing your doing. I’m applying the foam sheets with liquid nails. My question is- did you use a glue adhesive to connect the reflectix to the wood pieces you show? I’m not sure if I should staple it in to make it tight or what
Kayla Cwalinski
I just used glue. Contact cement
Destination mobileone
When it doesn't work? I've personally felt the difference with and without it on my own build during the summer. The difference is huge! Reflectix is a life saver. You have to apply it like I did for it to work though. You might not have attached it correctly.
or does anybody have any video recomenations of a simple process how to apply with the air gap? ,,,, please reply with a link :) greatly appreciated!! great vid btw outdoors ambrace! needed this in my ife
I'm gonna make a video soon about installing it. But it might be a few months honestly. I'm gonna record everything on my next build.
I will be using thiulate todaybwh my girlfriend! Thanks for this tip first time I see anyone do this! Check us out if you want latter. I thought the bublles in the thinsulate or vapor barrier keep it in already a my one is self adhesive for van. And I think it's made to be out against a flat wall and so on. But I might see where I can leave a air bubble
The air gap idea is something that I,ve been filled in with also in the past when using reflective type insulation . Good for you . You are teaching the right thing . Do you know if the air gap idea should also be used with polystyrene type insulation ?
…only foil-faced foam air gap will add some insulation value for radiant heat. But a sealed air gap with foam board without foil /will/ add some insulation value but in most - like 99%- situations you are just better off to have solid foam.
Hello ,Nice video's. So your insulation on the walls is also with air between the metal? Sorry for my English. Greetz
Lol the first person I see who doing it like me lol
Thank you. 👍
🍃🇺🇸🕊️🌎🕊️🍃