Front Strut, Control Arm, Ball Joint, & Sway Bar Link - Lexus ES300 Redo Project - Stage 4
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2018
- This video is Stage 4 of a Lexus ES300 redo project and will show you how to replace the front suspension strut, lower control arm, ball joint and sway / stabilizer bar link. Replacement of these components for a vehicle of this age and mileage will provide you with a new car like ride. Using quality name brand parts will add to the longevity of this repair.
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For step-by-step text instructions with video segments, go to:
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Le...
Parts and Specialty Tools:
Monroe "Quick-Strut" Front Suspension Struts:
Left:
amzn.to/2YoAU14
Right:
amzn.to/2UVPzyV
Moog Front Lower Control Arm:
Left:
amzn.to/2HH3zcG
Right:
amzn.to/2UZN2ne
Ball Joint:
amzn.to/2TwLlw9
Moog Sway / Stabilizer Bar Link:
Front Left:
amzn.to/2YpGDnC
Front Right:
amzn.to/2TA3QzC
ABN Axle Nut Socket, 30mm, 1/2" Inch Drive, 12 Point:
amzn.to/2HElQHy
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My 97 was in a crash when it was still new and the steering wheel never pointed straight after that. Yesterday I got the control bars and ball joints replaced and an alignment, which in the past wouldn't do anything to fix the steering wheel and..... The car steers straight for the first time since that crash. I love this car an gonna keep maintaining it and loving it!
Good for you!
man any tips for anyone else in same situation?
Great channel! Just got a 2000 ES 300, rear struts, control, arms, and rack and pinion. Halfway done!
Right on!
Great series, thanks very much I have the same car this helps a lot
No problem ... glad to be of service. ES300's a great car!
Very very very good video!!!
Thanks!
Gonna install new control arms sway bars nd suspension on my es300 😎😤🥶 this up coming weeknd
Good for you!
Greetings for you from Iraq
And greetings to you!
Great video. I have to replace the sway bar links in my auto due to cracked boots and excessive play. Is the a good aftermarket link you would recommend that gives the same performance as Toyota oem parts?
Go with Mevotech. Here's a video I made on their links: czcams.com/video/oC0wE71jCV0/video.html
Hello HMP, thanks for your great and informative videos as always. I had a question about the minor alignment on these ES300 models. Do you remember by chance the wrench sizes for the tie rod lock nut and the inner tie rod shaft when making adjustments. I tried 14 mm for the shaft but it was not a fit. Please help! thanks
Believe 17 mm.
About a year later now, what happened with this redo project? are you driving it for personal use or was it sold? this went through so much work and showcased your patience and knowledge of these cars. I wish you were my mechanic!
The car was purchased by a friend who needed a car. He now loves it! He recently had the car completely repainted due to a minor fender bender. We'll be doing an update video showing how it looks. Meanwhile, we recently acquired a 92' Mitsubishi 3000GT. We'll be putting out a lot of videos on this car. Stay tuned!
@@hardlymovingpro
Did you get your money back?
Meaning did you make a profit selling the car for more than the parts and your imputed labor? A heating core has to be at $800 job just a labor.
What do you recommend for a power steering pump replacement? And do i need to use dextron atf on the new pump or are aftermarket pumps differ on what ps steering they work best with? Thanks for your videos and best wishes subbed
Recommend Cardone as a good rebuilder of pumps. ATF is basically hydraulic fluid with an additive package for transmissions. So any ATF fluid will work with your pump regardless of different additives.
On the '98 ES300 if im replacing both front struts what other parts would make sense to replace while im in there?
As the video title indicates, lower control arm, ball joints and stabilizer bar links.
The whole car..
hey I was wondering cuz I have to do the same thing after you do all of that do I have to get an alignment I mean I'm not touching the tie rods unless they go bad once I put everything new
Yes. I'd get an alignment if I were you. The new control arm bushings will change the Toe alignment of the front end.
Is it ideal to have the strut mount nuts on top loosened until you put the tire back on and take the car off the jack? One just sheared on me when adding that final torque
I apply the final torque to the strut mounts after I attached the bottom portion of the strut to the steering knuckle.
I enjoy your video on this car sir, do you still have this car?
Thanks ... sold the car after completing all the work.
Hey, firstly thanks for your videos. I refer to them every time I work on my car. I had a question. My 2002Lexus es300 has an electric suspension system. Where can I find that? Les Schwab was going to charge me an arm and leg and said there was no after market parts for my particular vehicle
He's right. No aftermarket provider makes a electronic strut replacement. Considering the age of the vehicle, I'd just swap out the old ones with high quality standard struts made by KYB or Sachs. You'd notice very little ride difference.
I wonder if I can use Toyota Camry suspension parts (sway bar, sway links, control arms etc) for same age of Lexus ES300 2003 model.
@Nedim-ow1sh cross reference the replacement part numbers.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply, I did that but almost always last 2 or 4 numbers are different, on some OEM online shops spare parts for my car are also part numbers for 21 different Toyota models. Like Camry, RX300, Highlander, Solara, and Venzo true different years of production. So I'm confused is it possible that the same part fits for all these models or is it just some kind of marketing trick to sell you part?
Love your videos. I have a 98 same color and everything. I’m trying to figure out a potential serious safety issue. Today I went to put on my winter wheels and noticed something scary..Thinking i just needed an alignment and a wheel bearing I wasn’t too concerned. Well something happened that has never happened to me today and I cannot figure out why..both front tires off the ground I did the wheel bearing “test”. Perfect…solid, nothing moved up or down left or right on both sides. Okay I put the car back down. Tightening the lugs to make sure at the end the front left driver wheel MOVED. Not the other side…just the driver. Imagine tightening the lugs and the entire wheel shifts..but off the ground no movement. Any ideas?
I'd guess the differential locked to the left wheel while you were in the process of doing your test. If your car's shifter is in Park, one wheel will be in the locked position while the other will spin.
@@hardlymovingpro It’s the back control arm bushings. Instead of replacing those Bc I don’t have a press I’m replacing the entire control arm both sides. I ordered a kit with two control arms with bushings in them, two ball joints, and two sway bar links in one package from parts geek. Probably not oem but it’ll have to do for now. It’s crazy it’s this exact car color and all. So this video is literally what I’m doing very soon. Watching it many times lol thank you
I have play in my right wheel, is it necessary to replace the entire control arm? Or can I get away with just replacing the ball joint?
Depends on the condition of the control arm bushings. Also worn tie rod ends is a factor.
Is this process the same for a Lexus es330 2004?? Thank you !
Yes.
Hello from NC
I have a 97 Lexus ES300 when I jack up the front end I can shimmy my wheel left to right an when I go over a bridge I feel it in my steering wheel shimmy from left to right an idea or tips sir?
Sounds likes one of your inner tie rod ends is worn out.
My ball joint never came loose. Had to replace the whole spindle. Was terrible
Sorry you had problems. I sometimes use a air or electric jack hammer to vibrate it off.
I need to replace my front sway bar is it an easy fix after I drop the suspension
Sway bars don't go bad. It the links and bushings that do. May be difficult maneuvering the bar out without dropping the subframe a little.
@@hardlymovingpro hi my sway bar is broken and I didn’t find it any where any suggestions plz
Hey man, can you provide a link for the struts you used? If you can’t find a link, what is the name of the brand?
You can go to rockauto.com and pick from a bunch of reputable OEM quality parts vendors. Japanese OEM is KYB, European is Sachs, American is Monroe and Gabriel. I like the Monroe OE Spectrum's because they give you a life time warranty. There's some other cheaper brands you can experiment with that also give you a life time warranty.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the info
Would this apply to my Lexus ES300 1992??
Yes
Does this repair apply to my lexus es300 1999?
Yes it can.
You didnt torque to specs?
Whatever I tighten doesn't come loose. But I understand your concern ... if you're new auto repair, yes ... by all means ... "torque to specs" to raise your comfort level.
Hand hammering never works for me when trying to separate ball joints and tie rod ends. I had to get the special $20 ball joint puller.
My question is this: how in the heck are you so blessed that you don't have the rear bolt of the control arm Too Short like I do?
How did you not screw in a lower control arm bolt on an angle making you contemplate jump in the car because it's stuck even after applications of acetylene /oxygen?
I love driving Toyota's but goddamnit they're the bane of my existence when working on it.
I feel your pain. Your car, I assume, lived its life where rust accumulation is common?
@@hardlymovingpro
Yes: Chicago.area.
I did some more reading of posts after I sent you the message last night before going to bed. The two main options I came away with from other Toyota owners but not necessarily without solera's was either cut into the frame to get access to the nuts or to tach-weld the control arm to the subframe.
Cutting worries me for I worry about structural integrity issues. I would go the tack welding route six ways to Sunday if I weren't worried about getting the control arm tight to the subframe before tacking it so I won't have alignment issues.
A replacement subframe online is around $150 but I don't know if that includes shipping.
In this post mortem, I believe I might have zipped the bolt down and a tangent angle with the impact wrench and screwed the pooch that way. I made sure to put the other bolt in by hand ratchet.
!++;++++++++
What about the #3 bolt? The one that's about 55 mm in length stamped 11 that goes through the bushing that wears the most? It's as if the subframe has bloated up to where the bulls in open-air not even going through the control arm just not go through the top of the C-channel where I can get the nut on. I have to go to the internet to find 14 mm bolts but now that I had this new problem I'm not sure I want to go through that effort because I'm not sure I want to keep this car any longer; foreign cars are just too tough on me. I'm going to probably have to go back to an Astro van.